Whitewashing fruit trees in spring and autumn from pests and diseases: timing, air temperature. The better to whitewash fruit trees in the spring in the garden: composition, recipes for indelible whitewash. How to whitewash fruit trees in spring and autumn: preparing trees
For many years, the spring whitewashing of trees in the garden has become a traditional April event for many gardeners - beautifully painted trees, as it were, proclaim the end of winter. Although it's not just about beauty.
The spring sun can bring many dangers to garden trees and shrubs. The sun's rays are already warm enough and can awaken the trees ahead of time. Blooming buds can die if there are unexpected night frosts.
Another reason is that the rays of the sun can warm the bark of a tree only with sunny side, and from the shadow side, the temperature of the trunk will remain minus. Such temperature changes can cause bark burns and, as a result, cracking and dying.
Spring whitewashing of trees in the garden can not only protect the tree from premature awakening and damage caused by temperature changes, but also from pests awakening in the spring.
How to whitewash trees in spring
It is important to whitewash while the soil is still cold and pests have not woken up, otherwise an unprotected plant will become easy prey for them.
Examine the trunk of the tree and remove moss, lichen and damaged bark with a brush or scraper. If cracks appear on the trunk during the winter, they need to be repaired with garden pitch. A smooth bark is much easier to whiten than a rough one, and it will take much less mortar along a smooth trunk.
Whitewashing on an unprepared trunk can harm the tree. The solution applied to the cracked bark will cause it to peel off quickly, which in turn will make the trunk defenseless against sunlight and occasional frosts.
Then you need to prepare the composition - they do it slaked lime, although now there are many products based on copper sulfate and a special adhesive composition.
We whiten the trees in the garden
The most popular coloring agent for garden processing, every summer resident prepares regularly. It is necessary to take a standard package of slaked lime and add to it blue vitriol. Adding copper sulfate to lime will help to more effectively disinfect the tree from pests and various diseases. The mortar should be thick enough to adhere well to the wood. To do this, add 200 g of carpentry, silicate or PVA glue to the composition. Instead of glue, you can add laundry soap.
Except standard variant with lime, many gardeners advise other options that are less washed away by rain:
- Water-dispersion acrylic paint - diluted with water.
- A solution made from fresh slaked lime prepared with skimmed cow's milk.
- The traditional composition with the addition of clay - protects the tree from temperature extremes.
Whitewashing can be done with a roller or sprayer.
There are many opinions about the height of the whitewash, and they are all different. But the basic rule is that the height of the whitewash should be regulated by the degree of freezing of the earth. Sometimes it is enough to paint over only the trunk, and in some cases the branches are also painted over.
Whitewash contraindications
- It is not recommended to carry out whitewashing on young and fragile trees. The composition clogs the pores of the tree, which reduces the exchange of oxygen and the tree is sick.
- Do not whitewash during or before the rain - waste your time.
- It is advisable not to cover the tree very high with a solution, it gets less oxygen, die ladybugs that protect the plant from pests.
Whitewashing fruit trees in spring video.
Annual spring whitewashing of trees will not only make your garden more elegant, it will not keep you waiting positive results: trees will hurt less, will give more high yield, the quality of the fruits themselves will be higher and the garden will last longer, to the delight of its owners.
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Preparing for winter, whitewashing trees, how to whitewash trees, preparing trees for winter, autumn work in the garden
Winter is fast approaching and it's time to think about protecting the trees in your garden. One of critical components such protection, of course, is the whitewashing of trees, it helps the tree to grow and form properly, and also protects it from the effects of external negative factors. Exactly whitewashing trees in spring and autumn will be the topic of our article. And so the first question that arises when whitewashing trees is, of course,
Trees are whitewashed in October-November. To do this, you need to choose the right weather, it should not be sunny and dry. Update the whitewash in late February early March. Trees are bleached for a minimum of positive temperatures (+4 ... + 6 ° С).
The second question that often arises when whitewashing trees is
where to whitewash the trees?
Trees are whitewashed to a height that they can reach at least 1.5-1.7 meters. Since whitewashing is intended to exterminate insects living under the bark of a tree and to protect against sunburn, whitewashing is carried out with an aggressive mixture, therefore, before whitewashing, it is recommended to prepare the tree for whitewashing. Young trees do not whiten high, up to branches.
How to whitewash trees faster?
To do this, you will need several flat brushes, they are tied into one large brush, so you kill two birds with one stone, whiten faster and better, since the absorption of the solution will be better. Don't feel sorry for him (solution). Do not worry if after whitewashing the trees look pale, bright White color will appear only after a couple of hours.
How to whitewash trees?
Often most people use acrylic paint, because it is the most resistant, it is not washed off by rain, so it will retain its protective functions until spring. A cheaper option is clay and lime mortar, but they are not as resistant and you will have to re-whitewash the trees at the end of winter, although this solution is better for young trees, as they can breathe freely under it. Sometimes a mixture of ingredients such as lime or chalk with PVA, milk, clay is used for whitewashing, sometimes they use laundry soap and manure or blue vitriol is added there for disinfection.
Solutions for whitewashing trees
1000g of manure, 1000g of lime, 200g of copper sulfate and pour all this with 8 liters of water. Stir and let it brew for two to three hours.
1000g of oily clay, 2000g of slaked lime, 1 shovel of cow dung, 250g of copper sulfate per 10 liters of water. Stir and insist two, three hours
2000g of slaked lime, 400g of copper sulfate (dissolved in hot water), 60-110g of casein glue per 10 liters of water. A very durable material.
Important aspects in whitewashing trees.
As you know when you want to reach good results, in anything, it is important not to miss small details, we will talk about such details now.
The consistency of the mixture, there should be a golden mean, not very thick, as it will be lumps, but it should not drain from the tree either.
The color must be white, because as soon as it guarantees the reflection of sunlight.
There must be glue in the mixture so that the rain does not wash away your whitewash.
The concentration for young trees should be less than for adults.
In the case when the whitewash peels off the bark, you need to whitewash again.
How to prepare trees for autumn whitewashing
In order for the whitewashing of trees to give the proper result, you must first prepare the tree for it. As we wrote at the beginning of the article, trees are whitewashed in dry weather, but they are prepared in wet weather. Preparation consists in cleaning the bark, you need to scrape off dead bark, lichens and other growths. This should ideally be done by hand. We scrape all this on a cellophane film, which will first need to be laid out under a tree. After that, you need to burn everything scraped up, it is better to do this away from your site. The next step in preparing trees for whitewashing will be disinfection, do it in dry weather.
For disinfection, it is best to use an ash-soap solution.
: for 1 liter of hot water 5g laundry soap and 200-300 grams of ash. We wet a rag in this solution and dip the trees. The ash will both disinfect and fertilize.
Preparing trees in the fall is very important and how you prepare them for wintering will directly affect your yields in summer and autumn, so approach this process especially carefully!
Whitewashing trees in spring and autumn video
Whitewashed trees in our country have long become a symbol of the universally held spring subbotnik. By tradition, after all the joint harvesting work, buckets of lime are taken out. The snow-white boles of trees, and at the same time the pillars that fell into the field of view - as a sign: the mission of the labor landing party has been completed. Not surprisingly, many consider tree whitewashing a purely decorative act and treat it accordingly. But in fact, it is extremely important in the life of a tree.
Should trees be bleached?
To understand the meaning of whitewashing, you need to say a few wordsabout tree bark, which, in fact, is whitened. Bark is to a tree like skin is to a person: protecting internal organs, it is the first to meet all adverse environmental conditions.
And there are a lot of them: sharp temperature fluctuations, biting wind, sunshine and very coldy, the teeth of rodents, the action of pests, and the people themselves with their habit of making a fire under a tree and carving their immortal name or the message “Vasya + Katya = love” on the bark. The bark gets sunburned and frostbite, coarsens and cracks, hurts and flakes off. Who among us has not seen the difference between smooth skin young seedling and the rough cracked bark of the old one? Everyone also knows what a skin injury leads to - to a disease: infections and pests penetrate the body, weaken it, lead to premature withering and death.
That's why tree bark must be protected.
This is what whitewashing is for, it is:
protects tree bark from burns- winter and early spring, when there is simply no foliage that serves as protection from the sun for natural reasons;
- protects from temperature fluctuations, which means - prevents cracking of the bark (the appearance of frost cracks);
- helps protect from insect pests, the larvae of which settle in the bark.
So it is a mistake to treat the whitewashing of trees as a purely decorative event. Many years of experience of gardeners unequivocally testifies: this is an effective protective measure for the bark.
It is necessary to bleachboth mature trees and young. Many gardeners are convinced that young trees cannot be whitewashed, because whitewashing can burn the delicate bark. In addition, by compressing the trunk, it prevents its growth (thickening). Is it so?
The problem, as always, has two sides. Without a doubt,a high concentration of lime will damage the young bark, but this can be avoided. Halve the lime content, use a water-based or acrylic paint or, in the end, a silver biomask. But if you do not whitewash at all, then sunburn and frost cracks will harm the young tree immeasurably more than possible harm from lime.
For example, take a look at the seedlings that were grown in the nursery. Most often they live there in cramped conditions and do not receive light hardening. And when we plant such a tree in our garden, it falls into open space and easily gets a sunburn of the bark. That's whywhitewashing is simply necessary for young trees, especially during autumn planting.
When to bleach
- the main whitewash is considered autumn, it is held in October-November;
- spring- repeated, renewing; it is held in late February-early March;
- the third would be appropriate in the middle of summer.
The most effective whitewashing is carried out in the fall, in October-November. Made during the spring garden work, as a rule, is already "late".
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The most dangerous thing for a tree is preciselysunny days of February and frosty March. During the day, an unbleached dark trunk under the February sun heats up to +9 ... + 11ºС - this temperature is enough for the tree to wake up and sap flow to begin. And night frosts down to -10ºС simply freeze the “tightened” juice. As a result, tissue breaks occur - frost cracks, which look like long cracks in the bark.
White is repulsive Sun rays and does not allow the barrel to warm up to the awakening temperature. Moreover, the whitewashed tree will “wake up” a little later in the spring, which, quite possibly, will save it from spring frosts- it will begin to bloom after them.
If autumn whitewashing failed, in February you need to catch up as soon as the temperature allows. You should not wait for the traditional April "Lenin Subbotnik" - then this procedure will really become exclusively decorative. And if the autumn whitewashing went according to plan, the springrenewal can be done in February and March, and even in the first days of April - when the time will come out for this.
The third whitewash is not necessary, especially if the trees are whitewashed with resistant compounds that hold up well for up to a year. But it is desirable if the whitewash layer is washed off by rain or peeled off.
How to whitewash trees
To the most common question -how high to whiten — experienced gardeners answer:
- fully the whole stem(this is the trunk from the root neck to the first skeletal branch of the lower tier)
- plus lower skeletal branches 1/3 of their length (many even 1/2 of the length of the branches are whitened).
And this is to make you smile. It is clear that such a “mix” coloring will not protect against sunburn much ... But it looks positive)
It's autumn now, and just the time has come for the traditional doubt: "To whiten or not to whiten - that is the question." And this is the rare case when the question has an unambiguous answer: be sure to whiten! And right soon. Then on a wonderful sunny February day, you mentally praise yourself for the fact that your pets will not have to frosty night suffer from long, painful frostbites.
Ornamental plants in gardens are susceptible to damage from various insects and diseases. Gardeners and summer residents use various ways pest protection. One of the methods is whitewashing trees in the fall, the composition of the components may be different. Let us consider in more detail how to perform such actions in practice.
Cracks appear in the bark of trees over time. This secluded place is chosen for wintering by various insects. It can be aphids, mites, bark beetles. Carrying out autumn whitewashing, we deprive these pests of winter apartments.
The second reason for this procedure is to protect the tree bark from sunburn. Trees can get burned at any time of the year. But in winter, when the trunks do not protect the deciduous crowns, this is especially true. Frequent thaws also contribute to this. Particularly affected by burns fruit trees.
It is especially necessary to whitewash young trees. Their delicate bark can crack from the sun and frost. Hares and mice also will not miss such a delicacy.
Timing of autumn whitewashing
The timing of whitewashing trees depends on the ambient temperature. They begin to whiten in October or November. This should be done before the onset of frost. The signal to start work will be the end of leaf fall. Late dry and sunny autumn - good time. Rain will not wash off the coating, it will dry out slowly.
Equipment for whitewashing trees
For this purpose, you can use the simplest inventory - a bucket and a brush. A suitable solution is diluted in a bucket, and a brush is needed to apply it. The brush is chosen soft to penetrate the narrowest and hard-to-reach places. It is better to take a flat brush with artificial bristles. For economical use of whitewash, its width is chosen no more than the thickness of the tree.
In order to quickly whitewash the trees, without any problems to reach the highest points, use an airbrush. Convenience in this case will result in excess fluid consumption. But if you have a large garden, this decision will be correct.
Preparing a tree trunk for whitewashing
Before you start whitewashing, you should carefully prepare the trunk for this procedure. All unnecessary formations are removed from its surface - mosses, lichens, lagging bark. All this is cleaned off on a bedding film or other bedding.
These actions are best performed in wet weather. At this time, swollen damaged bark and other formations are easily scraped off with a wooden scraper. Acute metal objects not suitable for such work, as this can damage the living bark.
All cleaned debris should be burned immediately to avoid contamination of healthy plants.
The cracks formed in the bark are sealed with garden pitch.
If this is not available, use putty:
- Clay - 2 parts.
- Manure - 1 part.
- Copper sulfate - 1 g.
The next step is to disinfect the surface of the trunk. You can use this solution - 1 kg table salt, 2 kg wood ash, 2 bars of laundry soap. All components are dissolved in a bucket warm water. They wash the trunk, preventing salt water from penetrating into the soil.
A good effect is shown by the use of a 5% solution of copper sulphate, HOM, Oxy-hom, Bordeaux mixture. These solutions are sprayed from a fine atomizer, creating a useful mist around the barrel.
Preparations containing copper should not be used annually. This mineral tends to accumulate in the tissues, which leads to weakness and disease of the plant.
Instead of fungicides, a composition of soap and ash is used.
For it, proportions are used:
- 3 kg of ash.
- 50 g of household soap chopped.
The ingredients are dissolved in 10 liters of hot water. When it cools down, they wash the tree bark. Once in the soil, this mixture will serve as fertilizer.
The composition of the solution for different types of trees
The most common compositions for whitewashing trees include lime and copper sulfate.
Chalk or lime must be contained in such compositions. They provide whitewash.
copper or inkstone has disinfectant properties. Glue must be present.
The simplest whitewash recipe for fruit trees:
- Slaked lime - 2 kg.
- Copper sulfate - 400 g.
- Casein glue - 100 g.
- Water - 10 liters.
The presence of glue allows the composition to not be washed off the surface for a long time.
Currently, there is no need to prepare such mixtures. Exist special paints for whitewash. Water based paint is not dangerous, does not wash off for a long time. It protects the trunks from sunburn, does not cause decay and diaper rash of the bark.
Water-dispersed paint contains an antiseptic component, sun-protection pigments, remains on the trunk for a long time.
You can prepare a simple reliable composition of PVA glue with the addition of a dye - chalk or kaolin. By adding water, we get a high-quality whitewash.
How to whitewash trees
This work should be treated with responsibility. Work slowly, painting over each piece of bark, soaking it with a solution. Whitewashing starts from the bottom, gradually rising along the trunk to the top.
Try not to leave large drops of whitewash. When dry, they just fall off. It is necessary to whitewash the entire trunk and skeletal branches to a height of 30 cm. Do not make the whitewash solution very thick, a thick layer will crumble, the work will have to be repeated.
Starting to whitewash young trees, do concentration lime mortar twice weaker. Water emulsion and water-dispersed compositions are not dangerous for them.
Whitewashing of fruit trees must also be done in the spring. This will reduce the number of pests and diseases in these crops.
By taking care of the trees in your garden, you make it beautiful and healthy. Green spaces are the lungs of nature, they must be protected. Neatly whitewashed trunks show that they are taken care of.
Almost any garden grows any trees: apple trees, pears, barren trees. They, like any other plants in the garden, require care. One of important elements of this care is whitewashing. In this article, we will consider when and in what ways to whitewash different trees.
When to whitewash the garden
When to whitewash trees: in autumn or spring, it is up to the owner of the site to decide. There are no unequivocal opinions on this matter. However, in general, experts recommend whitewashing the trees on the site. 2-3 times a year:
- the main one is autumn (October - November);
- repeated - spring (end of February - beginning of March);
- additional (mid-summer).
The most effective is the whitewashing of trees in the fall. However, if for some reason the whitewashing of apple trees was missed in the fall, in the spring, as soon as the temperature allows, it is necessary to carry out processing. If a re-renewing procedure is carried out in the spring, then this can be done more late dates(March, April).
The third summer painting is optional, however, it is desirable if the summer is rainy and the composition is heavily washed off the bark.
purpose
It is advisable to whiten fruit trees in the garden twice a year: autumn and spring.
Tree preparation
Before whitewashing, the plants must be prepared for processing. Apple trees and other fruit trees prepared in several stages.
The first stage is the cleansing of the trunk and branches. Cleaning is best done in wet weather. Moss, lichens and remnants of old exfoliated bark are removed from apple trees. You do not need to use any tools for this, it is enough to remove what is cleaned by hand. To clean cracks and depressions on the trunk, you can use a wooden stick. Everything cleared from the trees must be burned so that there are no accumulations of pests and diseases on the site. The scraped material will be easy to collect if a film or cloth is laid under the trees before the procedure.
The second stage is the treatment of wounds. To disinfect the bark, it is necessary that the weather be dry for 2-3 days, otherwise the result will be zero. Exists several processing options:
- with a solution of copper-containing preparations: the treatment is carried out by finely dispersed spraying, creating a foggy curtain around the tree trunk and allowing the composition to settle on the bark. The most popular substances are copper sulphate and Bordeaux mixture;
- ash or ash-soap infusion, which is obtained from ash and laundry soap diluted in hot water. Processing is carried out with a rag;
- ash liquor, which is obtained from ash and water, is processed by spraying and washing apple trees.
When disinfecting the bark, be sure to take precautions: work with gloves and a respirator.
Third stage - wound healing. After cleaning and plucking dry branches and dead bark, wounds remain on the trees that need to be repaired. There are several tricks for this:
- clay chatter;
- garden pitch;
- garden paste "RanNet".
Compositions for whitewashing
Composition also plays a significant role. What to choose depends on the purpose of whitewashing, on the time of processing the trees and the condition of the trees in the garden, as well as on personal preferences.
Ready-made whitewash based on lime. Its main advantage is that it is not required self cooking. However, this is also its minus - such compositions do not differ in durability. After a couple of spring rains, there will be no trace of whitewash on the trunks.
Paint (acrylic or water-based). Typically, such compounds are enriched with antifungal drugs that create a film around the plant and prevent the development of various diseases. The main disadvantage of such whitewash is that it does not breathe, so it can only be used on mature trees.
Lime-based whitewash. The most popular and cheapest compositions. With such compositions, it is better to whitewash apple trees in two layers, so that the composition holds better. However, despite its popularity, this mixture does not have a very high degree of protection. To improve the disinfecting properties of such mixtures, clay and manure are added. If there are already mature plants on the site, then glue is added to the mixture to enhance adhesion to the bark.
So what to use for whitewashing trees in the fall? The composition can be anything, the main thing is the main three components:
- white dye;
- viscous adhesive component;
- disinfectants.
For whitewashing, a brush is used according to the size of the thickness of the apple trees in the garden. This allows more paint sparingly on the stem. If there is an opportunity not to save much, then you can use an airbrush.
Before whitewashing begins, the ground around the tree is slightly thrown back and whitewashing begins 3–4 cm below ground level. Subsequently, after the whitewash has dried, the removed soil is returned to its place. Carefully paint over not only the trunk of the tree, but also the bases of the branches 20–30 cm above the branch.
Apple trees that have already begun to bear fruit are usually whitewashed. Younger apple trees are not recommended to be touched so as not to clog pores and disrupt their growth.
It should also be added that the work on painting the trunks is carried out in dry, calm weather, so that the whitewash has time to dry and gain a foothold.
