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Summer tree pruning. Garden work on summer pruning of apple trees Summer pruning

One of the main events for the harmonious development fruit trees and a stable harvest of the garden is considered pruning. Most often it is carried out in spring and autumn. Garden experts say that some types of pruning in summertime- thinning and shortening of branches, very useful for plants. summer pruning trees is carried out in addition to the spring one and helps to activate the development processes and improve fruiting.

Why prune in the summer?

By shortening the branches, breaking them out and pinching, they control the growth and development of the whole plant and the growth of young shoots.
With the help of competent pruning, the number of young shoots is regulated and crown thickening is eliminated, leading to a lack of oxygen and lighting inside it.
Removing certain branches improves the ripening of the fruit and leads to an increase in the quality of the crop.
Pruning fruit trees in summer is the least traumatic for young plants, since the intensely secreted juice in a short time heals the cut points with an airtight film; for larger cuts, do not forget to use garden pitch before heating it or oil paint. However, its implementation requires an understanding of the whole process and certain knowledge about the vegetation of each species and variety of tree.

On what trees, and in what cases is pruning used in summer?

Most often, in the summer, sanitary pruning of frozen branches is carried out, removing branches broken by the wind, withered, populated by pests and affected by diseases. The remaining types of shortening and removal are mainly aimed at working with young shoots and their intensity is much lower than with spring work. In the summer, you can cut everything growing in the garden, fruit trees: apple, pear, plum, cherry, peach, cherry, viburnum, mountain ash, etc.

The most appropriate summer pruning for peaches, since in the cold season after the procedure, the fruit buds can freeze slightly. Shoots growing inside the crown, on which there are no ovaries, are subject to removal. Cutting off excess branches contributes to enhanced nutrition of fruits ripening on the tree, increasing their size and juiciness. Pruning is also useful for apricots. By shortening young shoots by 30 cm in summer, you will increase the frost resistance of the culture and activate the appearance of several young shoots at once, on which flower buds will be laid.

Receptions for the care and acceleration of fruiting

According to reviews experienced gardeners, in addition to traditional pruning, in the summer it is recommended to carry out additional activities: tweezing (pinching the upper part of the shoot), pinching, breaking out. In some cases, a procedure is recommended for bending and changing the slope of shoots that have not yet become lignified to change the direction of their growth. Carrying out these works leads to accelerated crown formation and an increase in the rate of fruit ripening, due to which the technical ripeness of the entire crop occurs at the same time.

Methods close to pruning: tweezing, pinching, breaking out, bending branches

Pinching, carried out in addition to spring- autumn pruning, leads to an increase in the fertility of trees. Remove either the top of the shoot, which has reached a twenty-centimeter length, or cut the branches to the middle. This procedure leads to a redistribution of nutrients that are directed to the development of weak shoots and remaining buds. Below the cut, fruit buds awaken more intensively and develop in the most harmonious way.
Stepping and breaking out young sprouts that are at the very beginning of development are similar to thinning. To avoid thickening of the crown, shoots that are useless for the tree are removed. The sooner they are eliminated, the fewer nutrient compounds will be required to provide them. Since young growth is formed throughout the growing season, the event is held throughout the summer period.

The slope of the branches in the desired direction is carried out using pegs driven into the ground, and twine or spacers. In this way, upward-growing shoots can be straightened, placing them in a more horizontal plane with respect to the ground. As experience shows, this method increases the yield, increases the strength of the branches and simplifies the collection of ripe fruits.

Summer pruning of trees revitalizes the garden and helps plants better prepare for the dormant period. Carefully inspect all garden crops in order to timely remove shoots that interfere with growth, development and fruiting.

Apple trees are among the most common horticultural crops, but for their successful fruiting it is necessary to provide the trees proper care. Pruning an apple tree carries many functions, which are determined by the age of the tree and the goals set. It can be carried out both to form a crown of the correct shape, and to increase the number of fruit-bearing branches or to strengthen the young ones. In addition, proper pruning will provide good access sunlight bear fruit and prepare the tree for winter.

Undoubtedly, pruning an apple tree is a whole science, it will be very difficult to comprehend all the nuances of it at once. It will take years of practice and, of course, the necessary knowledge that this article will equip you with.

How to prune an apple tree

There is no doubt that the apple tree is the most popular and beloved fruit tree in our area, and its fruits, which have a variety of colors, sizes and tastes, are a bottomless well of vitamins.

Figure 1. Pruning according to age

When correct organized care an apple tree can effectively bear fruit every year. Caring for this inhabitant orchard includes not only activities for feeding, loosening, weeding and watering, but also such an important procedure as pruning (Figure 1).

Scheme

There is a theoretically substantiated and practice-proven technology for pruning an apple tree, which says that, first of all, when starting pruning, it is necessary to thin out the crown of the tree. This technique will help to quickly change its illumination and, accordingly, prevent possible mistakes to remove or shorten shoots (Figure 2).

Note: To thin out the crown, it is necessary to cut off the upper part of the trunk with all the shoots extending from it over one of the branches. Only upon completion of this stage, you can proceed to the actual trimming.

You should know that as a result of pruning, stumps should not remain, which dry out over time, and then begin to rot, turning into a hollow. Therefore, the most acceptable is the cut passing along the influx ring. The exception is old trees due to age-related thinning of the bark. In such specimens, breaks and tearing of the bark occur at the site of cuts under the ring. Therefore, when pruning old trees, you must first file a branch a little further than the ring, forming a stump, and then remove the shoot, moving up the ring and putting a garden saw on the bottom.

Figure 2. Pruning schemes by age and crown type

Remember that any kind of pruning should end with the treatment of fresh wounds using antiseptics. If the garden is young, then this procedure is recommended to be carried out the next day after pruning. But the places of cuts of old and dry shoots should be processed immediately after work is completed.

Kinds

Existing types (techniques) of pruning depend on the age of the trees and include: shaping, pruning for fruiting, as well as rejuvenation (Figure 3). separate view pruning is the removal of dried branches. Let us consider in more detail the features of each of these types.

Figure 3. The main types of cropping

Formative pruning is most often carried out on young trees to give the crown the correct shape. After the crown is formed, fruiting pruning is applied, which can be carried out for several years in a row, until the fruits begin to decrease in size. And finally, rejuvenation is applied to those trees that have stopped their growth, and their crown has begun to dry out.

Note: When removing dried branches, it is necessary to cut them down so that hollows do not form in their place. For this purpose, it is advised to first cut the branch to the place where the first bud appears, and then file the stump with a garden hacksaw with fine teeth so that its direction goes in the direction of the branch to be removed. Then do not forget to lubricate the cut with garden pitch.

In addition, depending on the volume of branches or their parts to be removed, there are such types of pruning as shortening and thinning. At the first type of pruning, young, but weak shoots are shortened. The second type involves the removal of branches under the ring and allows you to form a crown of the desired density.

Mistakes when pruning apple trees

Since the technology for pruning an apple tree is quite laborious and complicated, it is not surprising that novice gardeners often make common mistakes.

Let's take a closer look at some of them:

• It is an erroneous opinion that a fruit tree needs to be removed only once a year. Remember that a properly formed crown, which is freed from excess or damaged shoots, will bear fruit much better.
• Leaving stumps after the cut is also a fairly common mistake. To prevent it, you must remember that you need to try to make the cut so that the tree has at least a partial opportunity to tighten the resulting wound with its own bark. The price of stumps is too high - the destruction of the bark around them, followed by the settlement of fungal spores or harmful insects leads to a weakening of the tree and the formation of a hollow, which, in turn, is the entrance gate for various infections.
• The causeless shortening of the shoots of young apple trees leads to the formation of several tops, which, overtaking in growth side shoots, will debilitate them. Therefore, to expand the crown, it is not the shortening of the tops that is carried out, but the removal of the central conductor, or the bending of all vertical branches.
• Strong pruning stimulates increased growth when there is no main trunk, and all branches are equally equal and form a kind of bush.

Another common mistake is processing fresh sections. Remember that on a wet surface, the paint does not dry out, but, on the contrary, contributes to the decay of the wood due to the lack of air. Therefore, it is recommended to wait a few days after cutting until the wound dries, and only then treat its surface with a special solution or paint.

apple pruning time

In addition to theoretical knowledge and practical skills in the process itself, it is necessary to know the specific time frame in which it can be carried out. When choosing a period, not only the goals set are taken into account, but also the age of the tree, as well as the weather and climatic conditions of a particular area.

Note: For example, when shaping the crowns of a young garden, you should know that all procedures should be carried out as early as March, before the start of sap flow. The next time could be autumn or winter.

But a more mature garden needs different types pruning, each of which has its own goals. You should be aware that neglecting specific dates is often the cause of low yields or even death of fruit trees. Therefore, novice gardeners should not be ashamed to ask more experienced colleagues for advice and not rush into the work, because some of them can only be carried out at certain periods.

spring pruning

The plan for spring pruning of apple trees depends on your goals. If the main task- correctly form the crown, then you need to start by identifying the branches that were damaged in winter period and if you are aiming for quick recovery tree after winter, then all old and extra branches should be removed at an angle from the trunk (skeletal branch). An example of spring pruning is shown in Figure 4.

Figure 4. Features of pruning an apple tree in spring

It should be noted that it is in spring that the juice circulates most actively through the tree trunk, so all work must be done as carefully as possible so as not to harm the plant.

In details spring pruning apple trees are shown in the video.

autumn pruning

All work related to the autumn cleaning of apple trees from excess branches should be completed before the onset of the first frost.

The autumn pruning algorithm is(picture 5):

• Removal of large branches (broken and dry);
• Thinning weak branches located close to each other;
• Cutting branches growing at an acute angle;
• Treatment of cut points with garden pitch or oil paint.

Figure 5. Scheme of pruning a garden in autumn

All cut material must be collected and removed so that it does not clog the space around the tree.

pruning in winter

Winter pruning involves events held in the garden in late autumn or very in early spring. The main condition of the procedure is the absence active movement juice along the stem of the plant. It is these conditions that develop after the leaves fall and before the buds swell.

Note: For this reason, winter pruning is not much different from autumn and spring pruning, although it has its own advantages.

Firstly, in winter the plant is definitely at rest, and secondly, winter time not so intensively saturated with work in the garden, and therefore the gardener has the opportunity to slowly and carefully complete everything necessary procedures to get in the future good results. It is recommended to start with the removal of damaged branches, and then move on to work aimed at eliminating crown thickening. At the same time, dubious branches are cut off completely, since the buds are not yet visible. The only limitation for the procedure in winter is the decrease in air temperature below -15 degrees, when the bark of trees becomes too vulnerable and fragile.

summer pruning

In summer, the tree is in active growing season, so the procedure at this time is not recommended. In addition, fresh cut wounds can attract all sorts of insect pests eager to lay their larvae. Therefore, it is permissible to carry out only light pruning in late May - early June, which will help get rid of competing shoots that form as a continuation of skeletal branches.

Note: To do this, it is necessary to remove all weak shoots and keep the well-developed ones, which are located on the tops of last year's ones. But for future skeletal branches, it is necessary to save shoots located several nodes below the current ones. All excess must be removed.

To weaken or stop the growth of shoots, the length of which is at least 15 cm, and on which there are already 5 or more developed leaves, they are pinched (tweezed). If this procedure is not effective enough, it is repeated for each new branch, on which at least 3 leaves have formed. In addition to tweezing, you can also resort to the method of bending, which helps to accelerate the onset of fruiting.

However, despite all the possible risks, only summer pruning makes it possible to evaluate and correct the results of your work soon after it has been carried out. In addition, in summer it is easiest to determine the places of the greatest thickening of the crown and thin it out.

Pruning young apple trees

A young apple tree is cut for the first time immediately after planting to give the crown correct form. And she, in turn, guarantees good fruiting in the future. And since the seedling is still very fragile and vulnerable, maximum care and caution should be exercised when pruning, which is not particularly difficult, however, requires some experience and knowledge.

You should know that thin branches are cut with a pruner, and coarser ones with a garden saw. In this case, the tools must be well sharpened, since the young bark is especially vulnerable. For the same reason, the cut points can only be treated with oil paint and only after several days after the trimming procedure.

crown pruning

The crown of a young apple tree is subject to formative pruning. It is very important to carry it out on time, since it will be extremely difficult to form the crown correctly further. by the most the best option is the arrangement of branches in several tiers and a sparse crown. Such formative pruning of a young tree is carried out annually for 3-4 years, then the interval increases to once every two years.

Crown-forming pruning will not only enable the tree to fully develop, but also improve its future yield. In addition, such a seedling will not need additional support, since its structure will be stable. To achieve this goal, it is recommended to form a base of 5-6 large branches, and shorten the central stem branch. In this case, the height of the trunk should be from 40 to 50 cm.

After the crown of the apple tree has been properly formed, the period of active fruiting begins. However, already by the fifth year after planting, the growth of the tree begins to slow down, so there is a need for a specific type of pruning that stimulates the formation of powerful shoots that can withstand a large number of fruits, the so-called overgrowing branches. This result will help to achieve a strong pruning carried out in the spring summer time(Figure 6).

Figure 6. Scheme of pruning apple trees for fruiting

Consider the essence of pruning for fruiting:

• In March-April of the first year, the annual lateral growth is cut into four buds. In the summer, 1-2 shoots from the apical buds will appear from it, and the lower growth ones will turn into flowers.
• A year later, the side branch is pruned into a flower bud.
• In the third year, the cut side branch will begin to bear fruit.

In the fourth year, the formation of overgrown branches begins. Over time, they can become thickened, so they should be thinned out by removing weak and located at the bottom of the branches.

Pruning of old apple trees is carried out with a rejuvenating purpose, because the fruits are formed only on the upper branches, shading the lower ones. Therefore, the tree must be unloaded and conditions must be provided for the development of the lower branches (Figure 7).

Note: Unlike pruning young trees, you will need to be less careful than pruning. physical strength, because you will have to remove not only branches, but also entire trunks, that is, everything that has become an unbearable burden for the tree. Start by clearing the main branches and trunk of inward-growing shoots that absorb vitality tree.

Thin out the upper branches, thus improving their ventilation and illumination. Take note that a one-time cleaning may not give the desired result, so it will have to be repeated for several years in a row until the tree comes to life. However, you should be aware that only a third of all branches can be deleted at a time. Violation of this rule will lead to the death of the fruit tree.

Pruning a running apple tree: video

It often happens that the old apple tree no longer bears fruit, but how nice it is to sit under its impressive spreading crown on a hot summer day or arrange a warm gathering summer evening. And yet, taking up a lot of space in the garden, the old tree runs the risk of being put under the saw. Do not rush to part with your old and reliable friend, it is better to help him rejuvenate a little. Running trees need to reduce the crown, which will not only increase the level of illumination in the lower and inner parts, but also contribute to its better ventilation, which has a positive effect on the health of the apple tree.

Figure 7. Scheme of anti-aging pruning old apple tree

How to prune an old apple tree and thin out its crown correctly? Cutting out thick branches that grow upwards, as well as the central branch, will help to achieve the desired result. The top is cut off at a height of about 2 meters from the last thick bough from below, and their tops are cut off at the upper branches. The place where the lower branches are cut is where they begin their direction to the ground. In addition to lowering the crown, it must be thinned out by removing stunted and damaged branches, as well as diseased, hanging, rubbing or crossed shoots, as well as branches that grow inside the crown. Old branches should be shortened, but thick lower branches should not be cut, because the tree may die due to large wounds formed.

Since pruning old apple trees is a rather painstaking task, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the video, which shows how to properly carry out this procedure.

Pruning fruit trees in summer.

Techniques for the care and acceleration of the fruiting of fruit trees.

In the last century, Professor Peter Genrikhovich Schitt developed a special type of summer pruning of fruit trees, thanks to which flower buds do not awaken so quickly during winter thaws and freeze less. It consists in a strong shortening of summer leafy shoots, and when there is no harvest - and even thicker branches. Produced in late May - June. After pruning fruit trees in the same summer, normally developed new growths appear by the end of August, flower buds are laid on them with some delay. The latter react less to thaws in the second half of winter.

Besides, in summer period various operations are used on fruit trees that complement the winter pruning of fruit trees, contribute to the formation of crowns, and regulate the growth and fruiting of fruit trees. Along with summer pruning of fruit trees, this includes operations such as pasynkovanie, armoring (pinching), the slope of the branches of fruit trees.

With the help of these operations, the formation of crowns is facilitated and accelerated, the precocity of fruit trees and the quality of fruits increase, during this period wounds heal better after pruning fruit trees.

In stone fruits prone to gum leakage, summer pruning eliminates this danger, unlike winter pruning of fruit trees.

But with a large number of advantages listed above, this operation has its drawbacks:

The foliage of crowns is reduced;

The development of fruit trees is weakened compared to winter pruning;

Yield may be reduced.

Vegetation may be delayed.

However, at present, with the availability of very effective biostimulants growth, fruiting, anti-stress drugs such as Novosil, Immunocytofit, Zircon (Epin), as well as biofertilizers (Baikal EM1), the problem is resolved. Therefore, it is recommended to use summer pruning of fruit trees mainly as an addition to pruning carried out in the cold season. Especially effective summer peach pruning, as the frequent freezing of flower buds in winter - spring period leads to the loss of not only the crop, but also the fruit trees themselves. Therefore, in the spring, in the flowering phase (if the buds are not frozen) or in the phase of bud break, light pruning of fruit trees is carried out, choosing dry, warm weather. And after fruit set, they begin summer pruning of fruit trees, removing all shoots growing inside the crown, as well as shoots that thicken the crown, on which there are no set fruits. Branches with fruits are shortened above the top fruits that have set.

With such pruning of fruit trees, it is really possible to save all the remaining fruits. If the fruits are well tied, then in order to obtain large, high-quality fruits, in the “green walnut” stage, they must be thinned out at the time of stone formation. Do not be "greedy", help the tree to bring up the harvest in this way.

If flower buds are damaged in the autumn - winter period or during return periods spring frosts the ovaries are destroyed, it is recommended to shorten all overgrowing branches for the first 2-3 shoots, which will ensure the development of strong replacement branches from low-lying buds.

As for the summer pruning of apricot fruit trees, it is used to increase the winter hardiness of fruit buds. It should be remembered that the apricot quickly comes out of dormancy, so it is often damaged by return frosts.

Fruit buds of apricot, laid on the second wave of growth, in comparison with fruit buds on the main annual growth, will lag behind in development by two weeks. Consequently, they come out of dormancy later and avoid damage by return frosts.

Shortening the shoots of the current year by more than 25 - 30 cm with the help of a pruner causes the emergence of new 2 - 3 growths of the second growth wave, on which flower buds are laid.

It must be remembered that this pruning of fruit trees, performed in the period from May 20 to June 10, gives a positive effect on young trees that have not yet fruited, and then in the first years of fruiting when combined with early spring pruning of fruit trees, i.e. Only a combination of these two operations can give good results.

Summer pruning of fruit trees is desirable to carry out on young trees:

Cherries - to avoid ankles;

Large-fruited cherry plum - to create a strong skeleton, i.e. crowns;

Plums - to limit the strength of growth, the fastest entry into fruiting, it is no secret that plums come into fruiting late, in the 6th - 8th year, etc.

Summer pruning of fruit trees is used to care for frozen trees, when it is difficult to establish the boundaries of the death of branches.

Move their pruning to the time when the buds are fully blooming. In this operation, shorten the branches to less damaged side branches or regrown fat shoots.

Close to pruning fruit trees in terms of their effect on shoots are techniques such as pinching and pinching.

Pasynkovanie - breaking out excess green shoots at the beginning of their growth. This technique is akin to pruning fruit trees with thinning. Shoots that are useless to the tree and thicken the crown are best removed at the beginning of their development. Early cutting of shoots in comparison with pruning fruit trees in winter reduces your labor costs, the useless consumption of plastic substances by the tree, and wounds heal faster.

Armor - removal of the top of the growing shoot. It is usually performed with a fingernail, but when the deadline is missed, or the shoot is already lignified, or it is necessary to remove most of the shoot, then a garden knife or pruner is used.

Weak armor when removing the top of the shoot with 2 - 3 undeveloped leaves, weakening the intensity of shoot growth, delay it for 10 - 15 days, while due to the redistribution of nutrients, nearby weak shoots will increase.

With a strong shell, the lateral buds below the cut wake up better and faster, they feed well and good side shoots are obtained. The germination of lateral buds mainly depends on the degree of excitability of the breed or variety.

The greatest excitability, i.e. shoot formation, such breeds as peach, apricot, cherry plum, sweet cherry, certain plum varieties (R. Altana, Hungarian Azhanskaya, Kuban legend), cherries (Achievement, Chernokorka) have. This is the basis for the use of summer operations to improve the condition of these stone fruits, increase their productivity, i.e. to reduce the growth of the tree, but to enhance the process of laying flower buds.

There is a condition that amateur gardeners must comply with: avoid pinching all the tops of the shoots at once, leave some of the unpinned ones, which will take on most of the nutrients, and this will reduce the formation premature escapes.

By pinching, you can turn any spinning top into a fruit twig faster than with trees in the autumn-winter period. Cutting off the continuation shoots in the summer, when they reach the required length of 30 - 40 cm, but did not have time to complete growth, i.e. until mid-June, you can cause the formation of branches of the next order in the same season. The same techniques are widely used in nurseries, using them in the formation of seedlings of fruit trees.

In most breeds and varieties, the axial shoot annual seedling already in the first weeks of growth, it begins to form lateral branches that inhibit vertical growth. That is why it is possible to remove all the lower lateral branches in the stem area in a timely manner. This is an operation that is harmless to the plant - when they are broken out in a grassy state, without damaging the leaves, in the axil of which there are shoots.

Cherries, plums, and cherry plums that grow strongly in the nursery shoot by the end of the season continuation with a good agricultural background grows up to 2 - 2.5 m. pinch the top until June 10 - 15. On such a plant, by autumn, a crown will be laid with good angles discrepancies.

Another of the tricks, very rarely used by amateur gardeners, but extremely necessary for serious gardening, is the slope of the branches.

Branch slope is an effective technique that regulates the growth of branches. Their deviation from the vertical weakens the polarity, the progressive growth of branches, and at the same time enhances the shoot-forming ability and fruiting of young trees.

Instead of removing or shortening strong shoots and branches, it is best to give them more horizontal position, and give preference to weakly branching varieties.

By engaging in the described methods of summer operations, you will significantly accelerate the formation of young fruit trees and their entry into fruiting, reduce the useless consumption of plastic substances by the tree and increase the productivity of trees.

Required event. Its goal is to improve health, direct its growth in the right direction and achieve abundant fruiting. Pruning in no way contradicts, but quite the contrary - it keeps pace with the laws of nature, relying on them. In fact, this is an imitation of natural processes, which is one of the measures for the care of cultural garden trees and not letting them run wild.

Thanks to competent pruning, each branch of the tree receives the necessary amount of light and its own space, without interfering with others. Pruning is also used as a therapeutic measure for various fractures due to natural processes.

Finally, by cutting off old dead branches, you free the tree from excess load and allow it to direct its efforts to growth and development, and you save yourself from the danger of breaking off dry branches that can collapse at the most inopportune time and place.

In this article, we will look at the types of pruning fruit trees, find out when it is better to prune them - in spring or autumn, summer or winter, and also study a video for beginners.

Pruning a garden is a procedure that has great importance for plant health and crop quality. It regulates the metabolic processes within the tree, redistributing vital resources and directing them to the required parts of the tree.

Together with other agricultural methods pruning balances all parts of the tree:

• roots;
• wood;
• leaves;
• fruit.

In the course of existence, the fruit tree is constantly changing, growing at different speeds in different time, directing forces:

• to strengthen the root system;
• to increase green mass;
• for intensive growth;
• for flowering and fruiting;
• to protect against disease;
• to prepare for a period of calm and so on.

His age, physical condition, state of health is changing. In this regard, the goals for which “surgical intervention” is done are different, and the type of trimming depends on them.

Based on the intended goals, share six types of pruning:

1. - delays aging and prolongs life.
2. Formative- models appearance crowns.
3. Regulatory- regulates fruiting.
4. Restorative- brings parts of the plant into tone.
5. Sanitary- heals the tree and relieves excess weight.
6. supportive- refreshes and rewards with new forces.

Let's take a closer look at each type.

Anti-aging

After the tree begins to bear fruit, after 2-3 years it is necessary shorten too long branches, which will “wake up” adnexal buds, limit the growth of branches, form a crown, rid the plant of dead fragments and give it the opportunity to improve. This measure is also applied if the flowering activity has decreased.

In addition, such an event will significantly improve the aesthetic appearance of the tree. Rejuvenating pruning involves the removal of thickening and hanging branches and excess top shoots, skeletal and semi-skeletal branches are made from located in a good place. Such a procedure can be carried out both in autumn and at the end of winter and at the beginning of spring approximately every three years.

Formative

With the help of forming pruning, it simulates the appearance of a tree, the load on its skeletal part, and allows the plant to develop evenly.

Did you know? It is curious that if the procedure is carried out in February, the branches will go into intensive growth, while the Marchcropping will slow down this process.

Formative pruning goals:

• acceleration of the onset of flowering;
• increase in productivity;
• well-groomed appearance;
• ensuring uniform access of the sun to the crown;
• increased endurance;
• ease of access to the branches for harvesting and care.

Carry out a formative pruning young tree, 3-5 years after its planting.

Formative pruning is not a one-time event, using this technique for several years the crown of the tree is gradually formed by evenly placing well-lit branches in it throughout the skeletal part of the tree. An adult tree that has lost a skeletal branch due to breakage, aging or death, or acquired one, may also need it.

Regulatory

With adjustable trim the already formed crown is preserved in the desired form, branches are provided with uniform lighting, excess young shoots are removed. With its help, the gardener maintains a balance of growth and fruit yield and creates conditions for wood renewal and growth intensity.

It is held from the end of February to April, and also from August to September, it is actively used in industrial gardens.

Restorative

If the plant is damaged for some reason, give it back the opportunity further development recovery pruning will help. With her help form a crown of acceptable size, achieve a balance of its constituent parts, control the number of growing shoots and improve illumination. After such an intervention, fullness returns to the crown, it becomes able to grow and bear fruit.

During the event, diseased and broken branches are removed. It is also used:

• to trees injured mechanically or frostbitten;
• if tree for a long time not cut off and now has a rather neglected look;
• when excessive growth of the crown has occurred, interfering with neighboring plants and making harvesting and necessary care difficult;
• if it has become difficult for light to break through the dense branches of the crown and the lower branches are deficient in sunlight.

Sanitary

Sanitary pruning is carried out as planned treatment and as an ambulance. Like most medical measures, it should be carried out as needed when the plant is sick, has acquired dried or broken branches, or frostbitten them.

This is done at any time of the year, the only obstacle is frost, and best time the beginning of summer is considered when the tree woke up. Regular and annual sanitary pruning will improve the health of the tree, give it a decent appearance, thinning the crown, and prevent infectious and fungal infections.

It should be remembered that an overly radical procedure will entail consequences in the form of a too thickened crown. You should also consider the age of the tree and its size.

supportive

held regularly during the life of the plants. It helps to support their growth and health, as well as fruiting, pursuing the following goals:

• do not let out growing branches beyond the boundaries of the formed crown;
• keep the crown in a state of permeability to the sun;
• avoid exposure of large branches;
• rid the skeletal branches of the young shoots that annoy them;
• maintain the health and tone of the tree for active growth and stable fruiting.

Determining factors and timing of pruning

The main load on the gardener falls at a time when the frost has already passed, but has not yet begun, that is, from the end of February and throughout almost the entire spring. During this period, there is no longer any need to be afraid that frost will damage the freshly cut plant, and at the same time it will not lose along with the cut parts. nutrients.

In some cases, the possibility of pruning up to the flowering period is allowed.

Did you know? In the city of Piedmont, Italy, an unusual double tree grows. It turned out from, on the top of which a cherry seed that had been brought in knows how sprouted. Developing, the cherry pierced through the trunk of the mulberry, and now they are a single whole, each remaining itself.

Early spring is the time to start pruning fruit trees. The first "swallows" in this matter are, and indeed pome fruits. Stones start a little later.

The determining factors for a particular type of trimming are:

• tree species;
• condition of fruit trees.

If the plant is planted in autumn, it must be corrected before the juices wake up. This applies to both pome and stone fruit crops. If the frosts have severely damaged the branches, it makes sense to wait until the time when the damage is clearly marked.

apple trees- the most stable crops, which are less affected by adverse conditions. It is with them that the work on recovery, rejuvenation and correction begins, and ends with them.

The branches of apple trees are prone to freezing at the ends even in frosts, it is better to clean this kind of damage closer to mid-May.

With cherries, cherries and plums, the principle approach is as follows:

• strong cherries or sweet cherries should be pruned after harvest;
• if the cherry is weak, circumcision in winter will help - this will stimulate the growth of new shoots in the spring;
• it is recommended to prune the plum during the harvesting process, or in the middle or end of June.

They pinch the shoots in the summer to save the plant strength for more important things. Autumn pruning of fruit trees - sanitary.

Important! In the event that the branchesbroke under the weight of snow, ortrunk split during a snowstorm, pruning should be done as soon as possible.

spring

You can start pruning fruit trees in the spring after the main frosts subside, but it will be right if the gardener waits for the time when is the sap flow going to start.

This time is considered the most suitable, since the tissues of the plant during this period are already prepared for the processes that are about to begin to occur in them. The cut in such conditions will heal as quickly as possible - of course, if it is done correctly and processed properly. If a formative procedure is required, it may well be waited for, or even dispensed with in another year.

So, the basic rules that every gardener should follow:

• the earliest when you can start cutting is the time when the main frosts are gone, but it is better to wait until the moment you are ready for the juices to start moving;
• the cut is made above the eye growing from the crown in the outward direction, making it smooth and even from the inside to the outside.
• the skeletal branches with which the trunk continues remain longer;
• weak trees are cut short, leaving two or three eyes, on strong trees eight or more eyes remain.

In summer

The concept of "summer pruning" includes several tricks carried out with green shoots that did not have time to acquire bark, in order to thin the crown for access to sunlight:

• pinching- in order for shoots to grow from the awakened buds, which will have time to prepare for wintering;
• tweezing- for the development of a full-fledged formation of wood in the uterine branch, which will help accelerate and improve fruiting;
• breakout- to remove young shoots of no value for the crown, it is easily tolerated and does not need to be processed;
• fracture- a rarely carried out technique in order to give the growing branches the required direction;
• pruning- to obtain a flower bud near the beginning of the shoot already in the year when it began to grow.

Thus, summer pruning of fruit trees facilitates work in spring and autumn, helps to save nutrients inside the plants and improves fruiting.

Did you know? Designers have learned how to form various objects, such as furniture, from a living growing tree using various agricultural techniques, including pruning.

autumn

Autumn pruning is carried out mainly for sanitary purposes; or, if it is planned to rejuvenate the tree in the spring, protective links are left. This technique is also good at this time of the year for a very. Trimming trees in the fall begins then, when the leaves come.

If you cut off a one-year-old shoot, frost can damage not only the place where the cut is located, but also a decent area around, and this definitely cannot be called successful healing. It will be difficult for such a tree during wintering, which will have a bad effect on the kidneys in the spring. The risk is higher the further north the garden is located.

However, if the need arose for sanitary pruning, the above considerations are losing their relevance, vital indications are important here, as they say in medicine. Those affected by the disease must be treated so that the infection does not spread further, and even more so does not pass to neighboring plants. In such cases, the amputated affected parts must be burned.

Fruit trees do not respond well to autumn pruning, and some may die or get very sick after it - for example, plum, cherry or pear. It will also not affect young seedlings in the best way.

in winter

Winter pruning is more appropriate in southern regions where frost is rare and winters are mild. She is good because:

• plants get less stress, as they are in hibernation;
• the cuts made are more accurate and of high quality;
• it helps that there are no leaves at all, and all the branches are very clearly visible.

The procedure is performed on warm winter days, when it is not lower than -5-7 ° C outside - when it is colder, the wood becomes especially fragile.

When a tree is damaged due to strong winds, icing of branches or excessive snow weight, and, even more so, threatens to further split or break, the gardener does not have to question whether it can be cut. You need to cut it, you just need to wait for the first opportunity, namely, the decrease or absence of frost.

What to do after pruning

Any circumcision leaves a wound surface on itself, from which moisture evaporates. It is also, in fact, an open gate for all kinds of infections. Small sections can heal on their own, while large areas, from 2.5 cm in diameter, need to be processed.

Important! In young peach and apricot, when planting and pruning, even the tiniest wounds need to be lubricated until the tree gets stronger and grows. In an adult apricot and peach, small sections can no longer be processed.

No matter how sharp the saw or hacksaw that was cut, in any case, the surface after it will not be smooth, so it needs to be cleaned with a sharp garden knife. Then - handle special tool intended for wound healing; for example, or oil-based paint.

You can not use any other paints, in addition to oil, - the solvents that make up their composition will have a detrimental effect on the tree, penetrating into its tissues through a fresh cut. To apply the product, use a spatula, brush or cut knot.

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It can last for weeks and months, each of the receptions summer pruning timed to a certain phase of tree development and must be carried out in a very short term.

You can not expect a positive effect from filizene, tweezing, green pruning or thinning of fruits carried out at the wrong time. Untimely summer pruning can give a negative result.

There is usually not enough time during the short period of summer pruning, as there is a lot of other work in the garden at this time, so it is not carried out to the proper extent. However, it is necessary to find a way to wide application at least the most effective techniques summer pruning.

Since winter pruning continues for a long time and is carried out at a time when there is enough free time, it is practically the main one.

But the importance of summer pruning is sometimes underestimated. Often the essentials are not carried out, which would make it possible to use its great advantages, at least in relation to young trees, where summer pruning can be carried out quickly and with little labor.

With summer pruning, wounds heal faster. Summer pruning corrects and supplements the previous winter pruning, directs nutrients to the development of useful organs, timely removing unnecessary parts. If this is not done during summer pruning, then the unnecessary parts should be removed at the next winter pruning. However, in this case, the useful parts will remain weak or underdeveloped.

Summer pruning is a very important event, and for young trees characterized by strong bud germination and shoot production, it is even mandatory.

Both in the nursery and in the first years after planting trees in the garden, techniques such as filisene, tweezing, bending, changing the angle of the branches and green pruning, which ensure the formation of a crown of healthy, well-developed and correctly located skeletal branches and ramifications, evenly covered with overgrown wood.

Summer pruning should be applied to all young trees, but it is especially effective for young and vigorous peach trees, to which it is applied until their growth becomes moderate and the number of excess and thickening branches decreases.

Summer pruning is also necessary when growing dwarf and shaped fruit trees. It contributes both to the formation of the crown and the covering of skeletal branches and ramifications with overgrown wood, and the formation of fruit twigs and buds and, ultimately, obtaining large yields of high-quality fruits.