How many degrees of frost can strawberries withstand? Strawberries in spring and early summer: we grow them like in the forest. What kind of spring frosts can it withstand?
Warm and long-awaited nature in the spring gives all gardeners a “pleasant” surprise in the form of small frosts on the surface of the soil. It would seem that the frosts are small - only 3-5 degrees below zero, and they only last for about 3-4 hours in the early morning. But their consequences can be disastrous for the early strawberry harvest. Our favorite fragrant berries, if the varieties are early, may appear as early as mid-May.
And such strawberries begin to bloom at the end of April, beginning of May. Therefore, frosts in the first half, as the nature calendar says, of the last spring month mercilessly deal with flowering, making the centers blackened and unsuitable for future berries.
Whatever our craftsmen can come up with to save the harvest from frost! And the fires are lit in the morning so that the smoke envelops all the strawberry seedlings, and they cover it with hay flowering bushes. Sometimes they even cover it with jars for several days. Let's consider these and other protection options heat-loving plant from spring frosts. Smoke In several places between the beds you need to prepare small holes. Place old leaves, straw, hay, and rags into the recesses. In the center of everything you need to place dry kindling sticks and paper. During frosts, from 3 to 4 in the morning, light the fires so that there is practically no fire, only a lot of smoke. It is not necessary to extinguish the fire; it will go out on its own in 3-5 hours. In this case, the smoke spreads over the strawberry bushes and does not allow frost access to them. Insulation You can insulate strawberries using hay. It needs to be scattered over the beds, covering the thicker flowering bushes with bunches. As soon as the frost stops, the hay needs to be removed. If flowering bushes cover with jars or plastic bottles, this method will also protect well from frost. But every morning, at about 8 o’clock, the jars need to be removed and put back in at night.
Insulation with film - another one effective way. But it’s not very practical: you need to buy a wide, thick film, cover the strawberries in the evening, and remove them in the morning. Sprinkling is very convenient for those gardeners who have a well-branched irrigation system for strawberries. Starting at 5 a.m., you need to water the strawberries warm water(23-26 degrees) and continue watering until the sun begins to warm up well. Agrofibre coating One of the most common, practical and convenient ways. Agrofibre must be purchased white. Preferably, the canvas should be of such a size that it covers the entire strawberry. The area is covered by laying it on top of the bushes. Strengthened along the edges of the beds against the wind. Strawberries can be covered with agrofibre at the beginning of April, nature will take care of the plants, and removed when the May frosts have passed. The advantages of this material are that it is lightweight, can be used for several years and does not interfere with pollination of flowers. If everything is done correctly, then at the end of spring there will be a delicious, aromatic first meal on the table.
Spring frosts can cause great damage to a strawberry plantation, which will not destroy the entire strawberry bush, but will cause harm to the crop. Spring frosts affect strawberry flowers and fruit ovaries, as a result of which a black dot appears in the middle of the flower and it will no longer produce a full-fledged berry or it will be of an underdeveloped form.
IN spring period, even if the weather forecast reports positive night temperatures, on a cloudless night, when the air is dry and there is no wind, there may be “frosts on the soil”, with drizzle appearing at the level of strawberry growth.
If your strawberries occupy several beds, then the most in a simple way there will be protection covered strawberries with covering material or even put a paper cap on each bush. And if the plantation occupies several acres, then sprinklers must be used to protect the strawberries from frost.
Protection of strawberries by fine sprinkling based on the fact that when water freezes, heat is released and thereby the temperature rises. The resulting ice crust does not perform protective functions. Water, constantly freezing on the strawberry bush, increases the temperature around it and does not allow it to drop below critical.
Frost protection sprinkler may consist of ordinary sprinklers with a nozzle that forms small drops.
The amount of water used for protection depends on temperature and wind speed. It is believed that water consumption for protective sprinkling, providing 2 mm of precipitation per hour, is sufficient to protect down to -4.4 ° C in the absence of wind.
If the ice on the strawberries is milky white, then you need to increase the water consumption.
When wind speeds exceed 16 km/h or temperatures below -6.7 °C, sprinkler spraying may cause more harm than good due to rapid freezing.
For the moment start of irrigation You can use the psychrometer reading. Before the wet bulb temperature reaches a critical temperature, protective irrigation should begin. The critical temperature for open flowers is -1.1 °C, and for berries - 2.2 °C.
Irrigation may be stopped when the ice on a plant begins to melt, usually after sunrise.
What do gardeners fear most in the spring? That during flowering garden trees and the bushes will suddenly be hit by spring frosts, and the future harvest will die. Heat-loving garden crops We plant them in greenhouses and make shelters for them. What about protecting larger plants? And most importantly: is it possible to somehow predict cold snaps and frosts without relying on the weather forecast?
When frosts occur, the apical growth point of plants is damaged, which subsequently leads, for example, potatoes and tomatoes to late blight. When cabbage freezes, instead of one healthy head of cabbage, several small heads of cabbage are formed, pumpkin crops die, and flowers and young ovaries of apple trees, cherries, strawberries and even currants are damaged. Damage is worse in lowlands, in drafts and in dense plantings.
Critical air temperatures for the garden in autumn, winter and spring
| Culture | Crown | Roots | Growth buds | Flower buds | buds | Flowers | Ovaries |
| Apple tree | —35 | —10 | —40 | —35 | —4 | —2,3 | —1,8 |
| Pear | —25 | —8 | —30 | —25 | —4 | —2,3 | —1,2 |
| Cherry | —35 | —10 | —40 | —35 | —2 | —2,3 | —1,2 |
| Plum | —30 | —8 | —25 | —25 | —4 | —2,3 | —1,2 |
| Strawberries | —12 | —8 | —15 | —12 | —2 | —1 | —1 |
| Raspberries | —15 | —10 | —15 | —12 | —2 | —1 | —1 |
| Currant | —40 | —15 | —40 | —35 | —5 | —3 | —2 |
| Gooseberry | —40 | —20 | —40 | —35 | —6 | —3 | —2 |
A sign of the onset of night frosts in spring and early summer is a sharp cooling in the evening hours and a clear sky with bright stars. On such evenings at 21-22 o'clock it is necessary to check the readings of two thermometers: one dry, and the other wrapped in a damp cloth. If the readings are approximately the same as in the table below, then there will almost certainly be frost at night or in the early morning hours.
Dry and wet thermometer readings indicating upcoming frosts
How to protect your garden during frost
Did the thermometer readings alert you? Then take a hose or sprayer and thoroughly water the garden the evening before the frost by sprinkling, spraying the tree crowns not only outside, but also inside. Also spray bushes, strawberries, vegetable gardens, flower beds and outer part greenhouses
When sprinkling garden, the air humidity around the plants increases. During freezing, frost forms from droplets of moisture, the process is underway with the release of internal heat, and the temperature around the plants rises by 1-2 degrees. Moistened soil allows heat to pass through well from the lower layers, so it cools slowly, which is also important, since frost occurs in the soil.
Quite different reliable way avoid the consequences of frost - plant cover any available material. In order to save buds, flowers and ovaries from damage, it is enough just to cover the bushes from above. The garden can be covered with lutrasil or simply with newspapers.
In greenhouses, plants need to be additionally covered with either lutrasil or newspapers, or arches must be installed and additional cover made with film. Such a double film shelter will create the effect of a thermos: a layer of air between the two films will keep the temperature more or less constant, and the plants will not overheat in hot weather and will not freeze in cold weather.
At night, many gardeners light electric (100 watt/hour per 10 m2) or kerosene lamps in greenhouses. The lamps must be covered with a cap so that the glass does not burst from the drops.
When the temperature drops to zero in the greenhouse overnight, you can simply put two buckets with very hot water, but not on the soil, but on wooden stand so that the water does not cool down too quickly.
And further: folk sign- there will be no more frosts if the cuckoo crows regularly, the red rowan tree has bloomed, and a white lily leaf has appeared on the water.
How to calculate flowering times
If you do not live in the country in the spring and early summer, when trees and shrubs are flowering, then you cannot know exactly when, say, a cherry tree will bloom - and whether the flowering will coincide with cold weather and frosts. But the timing of flowering can be calculated.
Below I provide average statistical data on the beginning of flowering periods of various garden crops For Leningrad region, in which I cultivate my plot. You may ask: why are they needed, because the flowering times of the same plants will vary significantly different regions countries? And the temperatures of the current year may differ from the average data...
However, it has been noticed: the flowering sequence of shrubs and trees in the garden is very stable, therefore, taking as a starting point some phenomenon, for example, the flowering time of coltsfoot in your area, you can very accurately determine the flowering time of other crops.
Using the table, calculate the number of days between the flowering of coltsfoot and, for example, currants. It will be 40 days. Suppose your coltsfoot bloomed on April 20, which means that the currant will bloom in 40 days, that is, on June 1. If in your region the coltsfoot bloomed on April 8, then you can be sure that the currant will bloom in your place on May 18. So, based on the table above, you can create a similar one for any region of the country.
Average statistical data on the beginning of plant flowering periods for the Leningrad region
Transition average daily temperature after 0 °C 1.04
Blooming coltsfoot 15.04
Transition of average daily temperature through +5 °C 04/29
Budding of currants, birch, rowan 2.05
Last frost in the air 9.05
Bird cherry blossom 12.05
Transition of average daily temperature through +10 °C 17.05
Gooseberry blossom 20.05
Last frost on the soil 24.05
Currant blossom 25.05
Cherry and plum blossoms 26.05
Apple blossom 29.05
Strawberry blossom 3.06
Lilac blossom 4.06
Blooming red rowan 6.06
Transition of average daily temperature through +15 °C 10.06
Raspberry blossom 18.06
Strawberry ripening 06/25
Ripening currants 22.07
Transition of average daily temperature through +15 °C 08/31
First frost on the soil 19.09
Transition of average daily temperature through +10 °C 09/27
First frost in the air 9.10
First snow 12.10
Transition of average daily temperature through +5 °C 21.10
Transition of average daily temperature through 0 °C 11/18
Author 
Galina Kizima gardener-enthusiast with 50 years of experience, author of original techniques
Comment on the article "Frosts and the garden in spring: plant protection during flowering"
Frosts and the garden in spring: plant protection during flowering. However, it has been noticed: the sequence of flowering of shrubs and trees in the garden is very If in your region the coltsfoot bloomed on April 8, then you can be sure that the currant will bloom in your place on May 18.
Frosts and the garden in spring: plant protection during flowering. soil 24.05 Currant blossom 25.05 Cherry, plum blossom 26.05 Apple blossom 29.05 Strawberry blossom 3.06 Lilac blossom 4.06 Bloom During the bird cherry blossom we plant potatoes.
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It grows well, but there are a lot of problems to solve when growing it. The fact is that the climate in Siberia is complex, in particular, despite the May periods of warming up to 25 degrees or more, often the weather then changes sharply, and a cold snap comes, which is accompanied night frosts. The most severe spring frost was recorded by me several years ago, when at the beginning of the third decade of May it got so cold at night that by morning the temperature dropped to minus 9 degrees!
Knowing about all these tricks of our weather, the first thing I do is try my best delay strawberry development in early spring. I don’t rake away the mulch from the pine needles that protected the strawberries in the winter, I don’t loosen it, I don’t water it, i.e. In general, I try not to touch it until mid-May, until the strawberries, despite all these tricks of mine, begin to actively grow.
But as soon as this process has actively begun, I take the pre-prepared one out of the pantry and place it in advance in full readiness next to each strawberry bed.
Now cover my entire small strawberry plantation from 250 bushes won't be any problem. In the evening, when there is a clear threat of overnight frost, I simply straighten the strips of covering fabric and cover the beds with them directly from above. When everything is at hand, this whole procedure takes 15-20 minutes. Fortunately, in our area, despite the strongest spring winds, as a rule, in the evening the violent weather stops, and you can even shelter alone.
In such cases, you have to either stay overnight at the dacha, or come early in the morning the next day to free the covered strawberry beds from protection. In cold weather it would be possible not to remove the “shelter”, but in our country this is simply impossible due to the strong winds. Gusts of wind will tear everything off and scatter it all over the garden, and there is no point in securing the protection very tightly.
Therefore, in the morning I always remove the canvas from the beds, collect it in a compact bundle (I don’t twist it), place it on the edge of the bed and press it down from the wind with metal tubes, which in due course will serve as pegs for tall tomatoes.
Based on experience, I can assure you that even a single layer of protection is usually sufficient. Of course, especially severe cases Some flowers are damaged (they then turn black), but these are only isolated cases.
I have seen my neighbors’ unprotected strawberry plantation damaged by frost. The sight is very sad. Excellent, strong, large, healthy flowers- and all, as one, with pitch-black cores! There won't be any berries on them anymore! And for sure, many more buds are affected, from which later, even if they grow, they will only be small and ugly berries! How much work was wasted in vain!
Therefore, I try not to take risks and cover all my beds when there is the slightest threat of frost. The signal for the beginning of the time, when it is time to start covering the strawberries, is the appearance of the very first rudiments of flower buds on the bushes.
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It grows well, but there are a lot of problems to solve when growing it. The fact is that the climate in Siberia is complex, in particular, despite the May periods of warming up to 25 degrees or more, often the weather then changes sharply, and a cold snap comes, which is accompanied night frosts. The most severe spring frost was recorded by me several years ago, when at the beginning of the third decade of May it got so cold at night that by morning the temperature dropped to minus 9 degrees!
Knowing about all these tricks of our weather, the first thing I do is try my best delay strawberry development in early spring. I don’t rake away the mulch from the pine needles that protected the strawberries in the winter, I don’t loosen it, I don’t water it, i.e. In general, I try not to touch it until mid-May, until the strawberries, despite all these tricks of mine, begin to actively grow.
But as soon as this process has actively begun, I take out the previously prepared covering material from the pantry and lay it in advance in full readiness next to each strawberry bed.
Now cover my entire small strawberry plantation from 250 bushes won't be any problem. In the evening, when there is a clear threat of overnight frost, I simply straighten the strips of covering fabric and cover the beds with them directly from above. When everything is at hand, this whole procedure takes 15-20 minutes. Fortunately, in our area, despite the strongest spring winds, as a rule, in the evening the violent weather stops, and you can even shelter alone.
In such cases, you have to either stay overnight at the dacha, or come early in the morning the next day to free the covered strawberry beds from protection. In cold weather it would be possible not to remove the “shelter”, but in our country this is simply impossible due to the strong winds. Gusts of wind will tear everything off and scatter it all over the garden, and there is no point in securing the protection very tightly.
Therefore, in the morning I always remove the canvas from the beds, collect it in a compact bundle (I don’t twist it), place it on the edge of the bed and press it down from the wind with metal tubes, which in due course will serve as pegs for tall tomatoes.
Based on experience, I can assure you that even a single layer of protection is usually sufficient. Of course, in especially severe cases, some flowers are damaged (they then turn black), but these are only isolated cases.
I have seen my neighbors’ unprotected strawberry plantation damaged by frost. The sight is very sad. Excellent, strong, large, healthy flowers - and all, as one, with pitch-black cores! There won't be any berries on them anymore! And for sure, many more buds are affected, from which later, even if they grow, they will only be small and ugly berries! How much work was wasted in vain!
Therefore, I try not to take risks and cover all my beds when there is the slightest threat of frost. The signal for the beginning of the time, when it is time to start covering the strawberries, is the appearance of the very first rudiments of flower buds on the bushes.
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