How to get rid of fire grass in the garden. How to get rid of weeds in your dacha forever. Soda and laundry soap
For getting good harvest It’s not enough to fertilize and water the seedlings. Weeds grow faster than cultivated plants. If you don't take action, it will fill the entire garden plot and “strangle” the entire harvest. I'll tell you how to get rid of weeds in your garden.
Know common types of weeds
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Creeping wheatgrass
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Field bindweed (colloquially “birch tree”)
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Chickweed (woodlouse)
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Cleavers
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Thistle (thistle)
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Common dandelion
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The list of weeds is very large, I have named the most common ones.
There are many types of weeds - some of them are poisonous. Many become spreaders of diseases for planted crops. But some are considered medicinal herbs.
Depending on the level of overgrowth and types of weeds, they are used different ways fight them:
- folk remedies;
- mulching;
- mechanical grass removal;
- radical destruction with herbicides.
Method 1. Use herbicides
Chemicals used to kill weeds are called herbicides. The destruction of grass occurs by penetration of the drug into the stem and leaf, herbicides penetrate into the root.
Depending on the effect on plants there are:
- Continuous herbicides. Destroy ALL types of vegetation. More often they are used during large-scale work to remove grass around construction sites, roads, high-voltage lines, and industrial enterprises.
- Selective drugs. They are used for work in gardens and vegetable gardens. The effect of the herbicide applies only to a certain type of weed.
Table with names of drugs and methods of their use:
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Active substance- glyphosate, isopropylamine salt. The active substance destroys weeds of any kind. When processing, carefully cover the cultivated plantings. Use during the period of weed emergence. Dosage:
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Hurricane Forte
Active substance- glyphosate, potassium salt. Herbicide (continuous action). The potassium salt penetrates faster into the stems and leaves of the weed. Dosage:
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Active substance- dicamba, chlorsulfuron. A selective action drug that destroys all types of weeds. Used to protect grain plants. Dosage:
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Titus
Active substance- rimsulfuron. The effect of the drug is selective. Protects tomatoes, potatoes, corn. Dosage: 0.5 g per 3 liters of water; consumption - per 1 hundred square meters |
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Dual Gold
Active substance- S-metolachlor. Acts selectively. Protects sunflower, soybeans, beets, cabbage from weeds early stage development. Effectively destroys annual weeds. Mode of application:
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Herbicides must be used strictly following the instructions for use. Keep in mind that if the drugs come into contact with crops, they will lead to their death.
Method 2. Remove mechanically
Weed control in vegetable gardens and orchards has been carried out for a long time manually using gardening tools:
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Shovel
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Hoe
Any type of hoe is ineffective in the fight against dandelions, nettles, and thistles, since their root system goes deep into the ground |
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garden fork
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Root remover
It is convenient to get rid of weeds on the site using a root remover. The tool can be of different models:
Copes well with removing long, thick roots of weeds, such as sow thistle and plantain. |
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Crevice cleaner
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Method 3. Mulch the soil
For example, between the bushes garden strawberries or using cucumber vines and tools to remove the grass is inconvenient. Therefore, in the fight against wild plants mulching can be used.
Mulching is carried out with film, grass, sawdust, cones, branches. Mulch perfectly keeps the soil from drying out. Behind summer season You can change the mulch several times.
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Mulching film
To reduce weeds, use mulching film with holes:
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Mulching with grass
Weeds can be helpers:
The main point! Use only young stems of vegetation, without seed heads |
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Mulching with wood sawdust
Excellent moisture retention and protection of cultivated plants from weeds:
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Method 4. Apply traditional methods
Our grandparents did not know about herbicides; they used what was “at hand.” Let's figure out how to remove weeds from a plot using folk remedies:
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Method 1. Vinegar, grated soap ( detergent), salt
Carefully! If it comes into contact with a cultivated plant, it will leave burns on the leaves. |
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Method 2: Soda
When fighting low-growing weeds, use a highly concentrated soda solution:
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Method 3. Alcohol
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Weeds on the site - headache every gardener. Weeds not only spoil appearance plot, flower bed or bed. The main problem associated with weeds is the deterioration of the quality of cultivated plants. During their own growth and development, weeds take a large amount of nutrients from the soil, leaving other plants without nutrition. Weeds take up the useful space needed by our plantings. Well, the appearance of a flowerbed overgrown with weeds leaves much to be desired. Everyone is familiar with fighting weeds on their property; folk remedies and many well-known secrets and techniques go into battle, most of which I will share in this article.
Weed control methods
I’ll start with the classic methods of weed control, which most gardeners and gardeners know about. Each owner of the site chooses one method or another, acting in his own interests and taking into account his capabilities and prejudices.
- The traditional way to control weeds is by digging. There are disputes between gardeners on the topic of digging up a plot; some consider this activity useless, while others, on the contrary, cannot imagine without digging country work. The operating principle of digging up a site is simple - breaking upper layer soil, the root systems of weeds are uprooted and injured, due to which their growth stops and, over the years, disappears altogether. If the area is overrun by weeds, it will be impossible to get rid of uninvited guests without digging. There are several secrets to proper digging: experienced experts recommend digging the soil with a pitchfork rather than a shovel. It is not difficult to explain this advice: with the help of a pitchfork you will eliminate the roots of the weeds entirely, while with a shovel there is a high risk of injuring the roots, cutting them into several parts, which in the next season will safely grow into new plants with even faster spread. If you have a cultivator or tractor, use them: you will have to remove the weeds manually, but the equipment will make the task easier and more effectively cope with uprooting the root system.
- Biological method weed control requires enough time and patience. This method of weed control is based on the plants’ need for daylight, when deprived of it the plants slow down their growth or stop developing completely. For this method use non-woven material black color. If the bed is open to the sun, so as not to overheat the root system of cultivated plants, straw, sawdust, and finely chopped tree bark are suitable. The convenience of the method is the ability to use the bed for its intended purpose, covering the entire soil with the help of, leaving only small “windows” for crop growth.
- Chemical method weed control- a tough and extreme method when no others helped. I will write more about this method below, but remember that drugs that can eliminate weeds once and for all will also affect cultivated plants and the insect world, shaking the microclimate in the garden.
- Known and replacement method for weed control. As you know, nature does not tolerate emptiness, so the beds must be filled with plantings. Annual weeds that appear in this case are easily removed by hand, unlike perennial plants sprouted into the deep layers of the soil.
- Don't forget about weed prevention. Do not use fresh manure, compost properly and mow the grass promptly before seeds appear.
Traditional methods of weed control
The use of drugs to control weeds has been known since ancient times: at that time chemical mixtures They didn’t know and didn’t have the opportunity to get them, but they effectively dealt with weeds using improvised means that are available in every home. Weed control with folk remedies is still popular today.
- The use of alcohol has a positive effect on the cleanliness of the garden bed. Prepare a weak alcohol solution (part alcohol to ten parts water), water the beds with the resulting mixture, and forget about weeds in the coming season.
- To prepare a solution for weed control, take equal parts of finely grated laundry soap, vinegar and salt, prepare and leave to infuse. Weeds will not grow in beds treated with this solution.
- When you combine 5% vinegar and salt, you get a powerful solution that kills weeds once and for all. But experienced gardeners they say that such a solution can only be applied pointwise, directly to each instance of weed, since the solution also has a negative effect on a healthy cultivated plant.
- The soda solution, unlike the previous example, has no effect on the soil. But the flooded one soda solution the weed will soon die.
- Sawdust dug into the ground in the fall and sprinkled along the edges of the beds in the spring will prevent weeds from hatching.
Chemicals for weed control
Of course, you need to understand that the effect of traditional methods cannot always be scientifically substantiated. While the use of chemicals is clear, logical and effective. But before using chemicals, think carefully about whether the problem in your area is so serious, or whether there are opportunities to use other methods.
Chemicals used to control weeds are called herbicides (pesticides). They differ in their mode of action.
- Systemic herbicides. When they enter the soil, the active substances spread not only over the above-ground part, but penetrate into the lower layers and into the root system of plants. The toxic effect causes the death of cells in the root system, which causes the death of the plant.
- Contact herbicides. Unlike the previous example, the solution only acts at the point of direct contact of the liquid with the plant. Contact herbicides are considered more gentle and precise in weed control, healthy plants will not be harmed unless the solution gets on them.
- Continuous herbicides(Tornado, Antiweed). It is not recommended to use them in the garden; the drug will kill all living things on the site. The active substances act on both cultivated and weed grasses. The use of a pesticide is justified when laying paths or preparing land for.
- Selective herbicides(Hurricane, Roundup, Agrokiller, Fusilade, Lapis Lazuli, Lintur). The active substances of the pesticide affect only a selected category of plants, while other crops remain untouched. Such solutions are used, for example, to maintain the evenness of the lawn, when weeds can spoil the picture, but at the same time lawn grass must remain untouched.
Types of weeds
Knowledge of the specific type of weed growing in your area summer cottage, can choose the right tactics struggle and use specific means. Most common in middle lane countries:
- Dandelion. Everyone's favorite flower. However, dandelion is a dangerous weed that spreads quickly and is quite difficult to remove from the soil. In addition, damage to the dandelion root does not lead to the death of the plant, but to the appearance of two new flowers from each root. You can deal with dandelion by regular weeding or using chemicals.
- Wheatgrass. The difficulty of controlling the plant lies in its powerful root system, reaching up to 1 m in length. In addition, wheatgrass attracts insects to the site, which subsequently eat the harvest of cultivated vegetables. Methods of struggle - deep digging and manual sampling roots.
- Plantain. Another well-known and beloved plant from childhood. However, for gardeners it is a difficult weed to remove. Extremely unpretentious, grows even on heavily trampled soil and with excess moisture. Plantain can only be removed manually by uprooting it from the ground using a special garden fork.
Removing weeds from a garden is a problem that all gardeners face. Failure to take timely action will lead to grass taking over the entire area, and therefore you need to act immediately after detection, and regularly carry out preventive maintenance, not forgetting about weeding and loosening the soil.
A little more and the snow will melt - not only in the city, but also in our summer cottages. And weeds will creep out of the ground again, and gardeners will experience new stage struggle for cleanliness of the beds. Is it possible to stop weeding the beds? Last summer, with the help of gardening book author Galina Kizima, we figured out why this is the most ineffective way to control weeds. Today we will find out what can be done right now, while there is still snow on the beds.
So, we have learned how to fight perennial rhizomatous weeds. Well, what about weed seeds in vegetable beds? There’s no way to do this without weeding! But no. It turns out that they can be greatly crowded out in garden beds. In any case, you can do without tedious hours of weeding. To do this, you just need to grow weeds in the beds in advance.
While it's snowing
If you arrive at your site before the last snow has melted, perform the following manipulations. Scatter ash or peat directly over the snow onto the beds to slightly blacken their surface. Then cover the beds with the remnants of the old film and place it on top of the poles so that the film does not lift up or be carried away by the wind.
In spring, the sun is hot, and under a layer of film, the blackened snow on the beds will quickly melt, the surface layer of soil will warm up, and weeds will quickly sprout from it. This will happen in about 10-12 days.
When you visit your site in two weeks, you will see that the weeds have sprung up. Remove the film, loosen the top layer of soil and leave the beds open for a day. Young weed seedlings will die. Weeds are most vulnerable at the stage when they have only 2 cotyledon leaves. At this point they only have a faint hair of the central root. If you simply loosen them at this time, they will die. But if they have real leaves, then fighting them will become tiresome.
Firstly, they have already formed lateral branches of the root, which means that as soon as you weed the beds and remove the weeds, new ones will immediately appear from all the scraps of roots. Secondly, if you leave the weeded plants in the garden, at the first rain over the next 2-3 days the weeds will take root and continue to grow as if nothing had happened. This is why weeds in garden beds should be destroyed as early as possible.
After you have loosened the first shoots of weeds, a day later cover the beds again with film and you can safely leave for another 1-2 weeks. The next time you arrive at the site, you will again see weed shoots under the film. These seeds sprouted from deeper layers of soil. Repeat the same operation again. After a day, you can sow seeds in beds freed from weeds.
At the same time, you must understand that you do not need to dig up such a bed before sowing! Otherwise, you will again carry weed seeds from the lower layers into the upper layer, and they will sprout safely.
Throughout the soil there are weed seeds. They are stored in a deep layer, like in a jar. But as soon as they get into the top layer, they immediately begin to germinate. The trick is that the length of the subcotyledonous knee (the distance from the root collar to the cotyledons) does not exceed 7 cm, so they do not emerge from a deeper layer of soil, but simply lie there and wait for years for their chance.
Pre-growing weeds in the garden is not at all difficult, you just need to do it on time. A simple measure of pre-growing weeds in the beds will save you from labor-intensive weeding throughout the season.
Didn't have time to grow weeds?
If you didn’t have time to do this, you arrived at the site, and that’s all vegetable beds are already covered with a green carpet of weeds, then take a “Strizh” weeder or a Fokina flat cutter - and go ahead! It is necessary to cut off all the weeds from the surface of the beds, going 4-5 cm deep into the soil, and leave them to lie on the bed for a day. After this, make furrows, water them well (preferably from a kettle), “salt” the planting furrows with the dust fraction of the wonderful AVA fertilizer and sow the seeds of vegetables and herbs.
Lightly level the soil of the crops. Compact with a board, cover the beds old film and secure it. Until germination, the film will retain moisture and heat in the soil. Naturally, as soon as the shoots have appeared, the film must be removed and the rows must be loosened to destroy the weed seedlings. Weeds can be left directly in the garden bed if the weather is dry.
If you sow long-growing crops (carrots, dill, parsley), then weed seedlings may appear earlier than your crops, and while loosening the weeds, you may accidentally enter the rows of crops. In such cases, among the seeds of crops that take a long time to germinate, it is necessary to sow several seeds of a lighthouse crop, which germinate quickly, distributing the seeds throughout the entire row. Radishes, lettuce and spinach sprout quickly. They mark the rows of crops.
Before the seedlings appear, the beds cannot be watered, since the hatched root is already oriented towards the center of the Earth, and a stream of water can turn it over and the seed will die. In addition, a stream of water can wash the seeds into the hollows, and they will sprout “where it’s thick and where it’s empty.” If the weather is dry and especially windy, the top layer of soil dries out and the swollen seeds simply dry out in this layer. There are no shoots, and gardeners are guilty of poor seed quality.
Transparent film protects crops from this, but another danger awaits them. In hot weather, the seedlings can get stuck under the film, and therefore, as soon as they appear, the film must be removed and replaced with white lutrasil.
The crops can be immediately covered with lutrasil rather than with film, but then in dry and hot weather the crops will have to be watered directly over the lutrasil. Lutrasil will not allow a stream of water to damage the seedlings, as happens with direct watering on the soil from a watering can. It is better to water in the evening so that the water saturates the soil overnight and does not evaporate from its surface.
When covering with lutrasil, you need to give some slack so that the plants growing under it have some freedom. Lutrasil can be removed when not only the threat of night frosts has completely passed, but also the spring flight of pests during the flowering of cherries and lilacs.
Swedish bed
When planting seedlings in the ground, you can also use black covering material, first spreading it on the bed and securing it. Then you need to make holes and plant seedlings in them. In many European countries, the so-called Swedish bed has long been used. What it is?
This is a specially prepared peat cardboard with the addition of all the necessary macro- and micronutrients. Usually it is cut into strips about 80 cm wide and 3-7 m long and spread directly onto the prepared beds. Secure and cut holes for planting seedlings. They make holes in them, put everything they need into them, and fill the holes with water. After the water is absorbed into the soil, the seedlings are planted.
No fertilizing will be required all summer. Only water directly over the shelter, if necessary. During the season, the shelter is completely utilized by soil microorganisms and plant roots, and nothing remains on the beds. Soil-dwelling pests (eg cruciferous flea beetle), they cannot reach the surface and die. Weeds don't grow. Flying pests cannot lay eggs on the soil (all cutworms or vegetable flies), and therefore do not cause damage. Moisture does not evaporate from the soil, so watering is significantly reduced.
At one time these Swedish beds were sold in our stores. Is it possible to make something similar yourself? Well, of course! All you have to do is add all the necessary mineral nutrients to the surface layer of the soil. The dust fraction of the AVA fertilizer is most suitable for this. About one and a half teaspoons of it is enough for every 1 m of planting (“salt” the soil surface with it). If the soil is acidic, add additional dolomite, half a glass per 1 m2 (or ash, 1 glass per 1 m2). Lightly dig everything up to a depth of no more than 5 cm.
All this should be added to the bed that has been moistened in the evening. After fertilizing, cover the bed with cardboard or newspapers in several layers. Secure them to the bed (newspapers can be secured by simply sprinkling them lightly with soil or sand). Make holes at the required distance from each other and plant the seedlings.
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The weed killer allows you to quickly remove weeds from the beds and provide every opportunity for crop growth. There are many chemical and traditional methods to destroy weeds; it is worth finding out the best of them.
How to fight weeds in the garden
In any garden, in addition to vegetables and berry crops, weeds are actively growing - wild plants that take away water, nutrients and even sunlight near cultural plantings. Any weeds that appear must be destroyed. If you don't pay attention to them, then for a very short time The garden may become overgrown and you will no longer be able to get a harvest.
In general, methods for killing weeds can be divided into 2 categories:
- Chemical method. Cultivated plantings or soil prepared for them are treated with special solutions that prevent the growth of weeds. The good thing about this method is that no weeds appear on the site after treatment with herbicides. However, chemicals against weeds also have a disadvantage; most often, only “empty” land can be treated with chemicals, in which vegetables and other crops have not yet been planted.
- Mechanical method. IN in this case weed control comes down mainly to weeding the soil - emerging from the ground harmful plants uprooted, preventing them from growing. The method is very reliable and allows you to destroy existing weeds, but it requires significant and constant effort, since the weeds grow back quickly and in large quantities.
You can also permanently destroy weeds by mulching and covering the beds. The greatest effect can be achieved by combining all of the above means, in which case the fight turns out to be purposeful and truly effective.
Best Weed Killer Chemicals
The most popular among summer residents are modern chemicals for the destruction of grass and weeds, so-called herbicides. The area usually has to be cultivated before planting crops, but subsequently weed control is reduced to a minimum. Herbicides are well suited for treating very large or heavily overgrown gardens; limiting ourselves to weeding alone is simply irrational.
Lapis lazuli
A drug called “Lapis Lazuli” is excellent for destroying weeds in areas where it is planned to plant nightshades - potatoes, tomatoes or peppers.
The weed killer in the garden is effective on cereal plants and dicotyledonous annuals, and it can be used even if nightshade crops are already growing in the beds. “Lapis lazuli” will help destroy weeds, but will not cause damage to potatoes and tomatoes.
To remove weeds from the garden, it is recommended to treat the beds with Lazurite twice - before planting the seeds and a month after germination. Typically, a package of the product is diluted in 1 liter of water, after stirring, another 5 liters of liquid are poured in and the soil is sprayed with the solution.
Tornado
The main active ingredient of the herbicide is isopropylamine salt. When it gets on the above-ground parts and roots of weeds, the substance blocks the vital processes of the grass and leads to its death. A weed killer, diluted in a ratio of 25 ml per 1 liter of water, helps destroy more than 150 species of pest plants and copes not only with annuals and perennials, but even with shrubs. Annual weeds die just 5 days after spraying according to the instructions, and shrubs die off after about a month.
Attention! Tornado is a continuous action preparation - this means that it is necessary to treat the ground against weeds with a chemical solution before planting cultivated plants. Otherwise, the product can destroy both weeds and crop seedlings.
Hurricane Forte
A product called “Hurricane Forte” helps to destroy perennial and annual weeds even in heavily overgrown areas. A solution for killing weeds, which contains potassium salt, is diluted in 10 liters of water in an amount of 30 ml and sprayed over the entire area. Weeds disappear completely after 2-3 weeks, and re-treatment in the current season is usually no longer required.
Hurricane Forte is a continuous action product, but the drug has a detrimental effect on the roots, stems and leaves of plants. For cultivated seeds embedded in the soil, the product is completely harmless; the main thing is to treat the area before the first shoots emerge from the ground.
Roundup
One of the best means For weeds and grass, Roundup is considered forever. It contains glyphosate, or isopropylamine salt, and when sprayed over an area in a concentration of 60-120 ml per bucket of water, it penetrates the leaves and shoots of wild weeds. Vital important processes in plant tissues are blocked, and weeds die en masse within 10 days after treatment.
The advantages of Roundup are that it is harmless to the soil and is also safe for pets. Destroy weeds in the garden chemically It is best in early spring, while there are still no shoots on the beds. When using weed control in the subsequent period, it is recommended to cover the cultivated plants with impermeable material.
Saltpeter
Very affordable and effective remedy, which helps destroy weeds, is ordinary ammonium nitrate. It is beneficial to use it not only because saltpeter burns the vast majority of plant pests. The advantage also lies in the fact that the substance settles in the soil and then acts on crops as a fertilizer. Nitrogenous substances in ammonium nitrate are especially useful for garden plants in early spring; they promote rapid development shoots
To destroy weeds in the garden forever or for a very long time, use a very powerful concentration of saltpeter - about 3 kg of the substance per bucket of water. You can treat the area with this solution only before planting the seeds. But just a few days after treatment, the bulk of the nitrate will simply evaporate into the atmosphere, and a safe amount of nitrogen for plants will remain in the soil.
Weeding and digging
Even the most thorough treatment of the area chemicals does not always help to completely destroy weeds. Many herbicides act on the above-ground parts of weed plants, but the roots and seeds of weeds can survive.
During the entire growing season, it is recommended to carefully inspect the beds with cultural plantings. The soil at the roots of cultivated plants and between the rows is weeded, loosened and dug up at least once a month. Loosening the soil does not allow weeds to take root and grow properly. Unwanted seedlings can be destroyed at a very early stage.
Mulching
Another effective agrotechnical method for removing weeds from the garden is mulching. The ground in the immediate vicinity of the roots of cultivated plants is covered with a dense layer of mulch - sand, peat, sawdust, wood chips.
Mulching does not harm the plantings themselves, provided that seedlings have already appeared in the garden bed, and especially cannot destroy them. On the contrary, a mulch layer is very useful - it prevents moisture from evaporating too quickly from the soil. But weeds cannot grow through the mulch layer; they do not receive the light and oxygen necessary for development, and they die at the stage of development underground.
Covering material and black film
You can fight weeds in your summer cottage with the help of covering material that is spread over the beds. Lutrasil and spunbond, agrotex and agrospan are in great demand on the horticultural market. Black opaque film is also often used to cover plantings. Any of the listed materials can be used for several years in a row and not have to worry about the weed problem.
Covering material acts in much the same way as mulch - it blocks access for weeds sunlight and oxygen, thereby helping to destroy them. In this case, ordinary garden plants grow through special holes made in the covering material or film.
Peculiarities:
- Non-woven covering materials usually allow water to pass through, so you can water the beds directly through them.
- The black film is impervious to water and requires lifting or pouring water directly next to the plant stems when watering it.
- However, for plantings covered with film, watering itself is required much less frequently - the liquid evaporates more slowly from the soil, and condensation forms on the inner surface of the film, which returns to the ground.
Black covering materials help raise the temperature of the top layer of soil. This is also useful for cultivated plants - plantings suffer less from sudden cold snaps and bring more abundant harvests. During ripening, vegetables and berries do not get dirty in wet soil, but lie on a clean film, and it is much more convenient to collect them.
Important! Although film and other covering materials help destroy weeds, their disadvantage is that it becomes more difficult to fertilize the beds. And for digging and loosening the soil, it is completely necessary to remove the material. But at the same time, feeding plants under film or agrofibre is generally required less often.
Folk remedies for weeds on the site
You can destroy harmful plants traditional methods- over the years of use they have proven their effectiveness. True, it is difficult to treat large areas of land with folk remedies for weeds at home, since a lot of raw materials will be needed to prepare solutions. But in a modest garden they can show good results.
Salt and vinegar
A homemade herbicide solution consisting of two ingredients - vinegar and salt - helps to destroy weeds in the garden. It is prepared in this way:
- 2 large tablespoons of salt are diluted in 1 liter of water;
- add 5 large tablespoons of table vinegar;
- heat the solution until hot and treat the soil, making sure that the mixture does not fall on crop plants.
The folk remedy is quite safe for vegetables and other crops. However, the soil will become very acidic after vinegar, so it will need to be fertilized with wood ash.
Soda and laundry soap
Another method suggests preparing weed poison at home from laundry soap and soda. In a bucket of water you need to dissolve 1 handful of soda powder and a grated piece of soap, and then stir thoroughly until completely dissolved.
The resulting product is used to purposefully water the weed thickets - the alkaline solution helps to reliably destroy the weeds. However, it is impossible to plant garden plants in this area during the season, and if weeds are destroyed away from vegetable crops, then you need to ensure that the gap is at least 20 cm.
Alcohol solution
Alcohol gives a good effect when treating areas overgrown with weeds. The product is diluted with water in a ratio of 1 to 10 and thoroughly poured onto the soil. Moreover, in order to destroy weeds on just 2 acres of land, you will need to spend a total of 11 liters of alcohol.
But the advantage of this method is that alcohol does not cause long-term damage to the soil. Within a month after treatment, vegetables and berries can be planted on the site.
Salt
One of the most effective folk remedies for weed control is salt; it has been used for decades. Salt is used in two ways:
- diluted in water at the rate of 1 kg per 10 l;
- sprinkle the soil with salt powder in a volume of 150 g per meter of space.
Weeds cannot tolerate the effects of salt and die very quickly, and then for a long time don't appear again. However, a significant disadvantage of the product is that vegetable crops It will not be possible to plant on soil treated with salt for very long.
If you want to kill weeds with salt without harming the vegetables, you can dilute the product with water in a ratio of 3 to 1 and precisely water the ground exactly where the weeds grow, but not close to the garden crops.
Boiling water
Simple boiling water has a detrimental effect on germinating weeds. Scalding helps quickly destroy harmful weeds. This remedy should not be used only when weeds grow close to vegetables. The roots are too close hot water can destroy them too.
Conclusion
Weed killer in agriculture is not presented in the only version. You can get rid of weeds using herbicides, folk remedies, or correct agrotechnical methods.
