How to accelerate the ripening of grapes. Ways and methods to accelerate the growth of the vine How to process grapes for vine ripening
A mature vine with dense wood and a high-quality core is the key to a full harvest and protection during the cold periods of the year. Vegetation of grapes during summer growth occurs in three stages, which form the plant, preparing it for the wintering period, determining and accumulating the necessary stock nutrients.
Ripe vine
Reasons that affect the maturation of the vine
The structure of the vine
Grapevine, like any tree, has a rhizome, trunk or trunk and crowns. The cutting, planted in the soil and giving rise to the bush itself, is an underground stem. The root system appears from its lower and lateral parts, and the aerial part appears from the upper eyes. About 3-4 years, sleeves are formed from the eyes, also called boles. This is the base of the plant.
Fruitful shoots include only green shoots developed from the buds of annual specimens. For this reason, for a rich harvest of grapes, pruning is regularly done, which also helps to speed up its ripening. Dormant buds are located on top of the underground trunk, allowing the vine to recover from frostbite or if pruned too hard. These buds awaken only in the listed cases of damage to the shoots.
The vine is fixed on a support with the help of tendrils on reverse side from the leaves, on the run. If a bush is formed on a gazebo, its mustache is thinned out so that the inflorescences receive enough nutrients. In the autumn, inflorescences begin to form. To get a crop, a male or bisexual specimen should be planted next to the female bush.
Grapes are not whimsical to the soil, but for its planting it is necessary to avoid salt marshes and places with high level groundwater. Other soils, even not the most suitable for growing vineyards, can be improved on their own:
The vine develops well in the warm season. Darker varieties are more thermophilic than light specimens. But with an increase in the temperature mark of +38 ° C, the growth of shoots slows down.
Sunlight also has a great influence on the maturation of the plant, but in the penumbra of the phase growing season are not violated.
To give to the bush right amount light and heat from the sun and accelerate the time of its ripening, the cuttings should be planted in the southern part of the garden. In the absence of such an opportunity, the plants are placed in trenches 40-50 cm deep, protecting the roots from frost.
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Phases of the vegetative period of the grape vine
Grapes is perennial plant, whose life cycle in the wild lasts more than 20 years, and in households - 60-80 years. Every year the vine goes through phases of development during which it needs certain conditions. The annual cycle of plant development consists of a growing season and a dormant period.
The growing season lasts from spring to autumn and includes 6 phases:
The degree and timing of ripening of the vine
To find out how ripe the vine is, look at the following signs:
The ripening of the vine is influenced by various activities that will help speed up this process.
The vine will bring a big harvest next year, if you correctly cut the plant for the fall. Remove all branches, except for the most powerful shoots. Growth adjustment is desirable to carry out before the onset of winter, because at the end of autumn useful minerals move from the branches to the wood and roots of the plant. The winter period has a positive effect on internal movements in wood, and slight cooling will not harm the grapes.
Important! A well-ripened plant will not suffer from frost, but if the vine has not had time to ripen, then it must be insulated, otherwise a weak bush will not bring a crop.
A strong plant is pruned in November, because at this time a gap is visible between ripe and not yet ready sprouts. If this is done late, the bush will turn completely brown, and it will be more difficult to identify the part to trim.
Caring for planting material in the spring, vine bushes begin to cut and regulate their growth. You also need to monitor the development of buds and shoots, getting rid of unnecessary ones in a timely manner to prevent care nutrients and aging disorders.
Compliance with the listed rules and tips will speed up and make the ripening of the vine correct. It is enough to control the growth of branches, ensure the proper supply of light and moisture, in order to achieve excellent quality clusters. At the same time, one should not focus on a large number of fruits and shoots, because their excess will weaken the vine, which will spend all its strength on the formation of fruits.
How to help the vine ripen
In order for the grape bush not to suffer in winter and be with a harvest, you need to grow a well-ripened vine with dense wood and a thin core.
Therefore, after planting a seedling on its one-year-old shoot, only one young, strongest green shoot should be left, the rest should be broken at the base. The mentioned green shoot completely takes over all the growth energy of the aerial part of the plant. After removal, one, but a tall shoot with high-quality matured wood is formed. The shoot that is located closer to the base of the one-year growth of the seedling grows more intensively. On the elite annual seedlings after planting, two shoots can be left to develop simultaneously, since their development of the bush occurs most rapidly.
Balanced nutrition for grapes
The grape bush also reacts to soil conditions. The growth and maturation of shoots depend on the composition of nutrients in the soil and their concentration (lack of norm or excess). For the vast majority of amateur gardeners and winegrowers, especially for beginners, this topic remains mysterious, so it would be very advisable to take soil samples from your site for analysis to an agrochemical laboratory, where you can get expert advice on the use of fertilizers for a particular garden. Excessive use of fertilizers during planting and after it greatly inhibits the growth and development of the grape seedling, and this is reflected in the ripening of the shoots. There were cases when, from an overdose of superphosphate, seedlings had a “zero version” of their development (they grew only up to 40 cm) and died during the winter.
Shelter for ripening vines
The maturation of shoots begins not only with a decrease in the day, but also directly depends on an increase in the amplitude of fluctuations in the temperature of day and night. According to my observations, a good addition to the ripening of the vine on the seedling is to cover it with plastic wrap or non-woven covering material from the beginning of September. First you need to tilt the green, non-ripening shoot closer to the soil and fix it in this position. Then, using greenhouse wire arcs, make a low dome using a film. In northern latitudes, this technique can be used earlier.
As for the ripening of the shoots of adult vine bushes, here you can take note of the last of the above methods. To do this, cover the trellis with a film, fixing it on the bottom wire of the trellis with adhesive tape or tape. Do not forget to fix the edges or ends of the film cover with the same material. In the case of very hot weather, from the contact of the film with the leaves, the latter can burn and dry out, which is very undesirable for a grape bush. Therefore, in the upper part of the trellis at the level of the upper wire, you need to install transverse struts 50 cm long with additional wire rows (broaches), then you should pull polyethylene film. Due to the increase in the internal under-film space, there will be no contact between the leaves and the film.
Load rationing vine
Overloading grape bushes with crops and vegetative mass reduces the degree of ripening of shoots, it is better to underload bushes than to overload them. But a significant underload of adult bushes causes a violent growth of shoots. They "fatten" and as a result ripen worse. Each variety of a well-ripened vine has its own color: yellow, brown, red-brown and their shades. At the same time, the vine may be colored in appearance, but weakly matured and loose. With a slight bend of a well-ripened vine, its crackling is heard.
All short, thin and underdeveloped shoots on adult vines must be removed in a timely manner, as they take on the nutrients that full-fledged shoots lack for their best ripening.
Grape diseases also affect the ripening of the vine, to avoid this, it is necessary to spray fungicides (drugs against plant diseases) in a timely manner. Option 2 If the vine is not ripe
They planted a seedling of grapes in the spring, and it still stands green, neither the buds nor even the vines have turned brown. The thing is bad. You can lose it. By the way, this can also happen with 2-4 year old bushes, if the plants were not watered in the heat and were not sprayed from diseases, and by autumn the owners came to their senses and tried to correct the situation.
But precious time has already been lost. It is good if the bush is strong, with a powerful root system, which will kick out new shoots in the spring. True, the year of the life of the bush is lost. And the harvest next year is unlikely to wait.
There is information from Siberians, who are constantly faced with the problem of non-ripening of shoots, about the successful overwintering of even green vines. They dig trenches 10-15 cm to cover the grapes, cover them with sugar bags and pin the vines to them directly with the leaves, after shortening them to the desired length.
They put small arcs on which they stretch lutrasil or spunbond, and when it gets cold or frosty, leaves or grass tops are poured on top, and all this is covered with another layer of spunbond.
They say that under such a "feather bed" the vine winters ideally. In the spring, you only have to remove small dead and rotten areas.
Young seedlings (1-2 years old) can be dug up and planted in a pot with soil or wet sand and stored in the basement. In February, they are taken out to the windowsill, where they are kept together with tomato seedlings.
You can do it even easier. Before frost, a 5-liter plastic container is taken from under the water, the neck is cut off, and the bottom without a neck is put on a bush, like an individual greenhouse. From above it is sprinkled with an earthen hill.
Under such mounds, unripe seedlings winter well, there are practically no attacks.
You can improve the ripening of shoots if you properly prepare the bushes in the autumn. For this you need to do:
1. Pre-pruning - immediately after harvest. We cut weak shoots, outdated and diseased sleeves.
2. Autumn loosening of tree trunks to a depth of 25-27 cm with incorporation of organic fertilizers and superphosphate. Per m2 of the trunk strip, 5 kg of humus or compost, 50-60 g of superphosphate, 300 g of ash, 1 g boric acid.
3. Carry out two moisture-charging irrigations - the first after the leaves die from frost. We do it even if it rains. Pour 5-10 buckets of water onto the bush. In the first bucket, you can add 1 g of potassium permanganate. Watering of fruit-bearing bushes is carried out only in drainages.
The second, if the weather is dry before the onset of frost, in such a way that the poured water, without having time to evaporate, freezes.
Method 3 The quality of aging of shoots is significantly affected by the availability of potassium. Therefore, I consider top dressing with mineral chlorine-free potassium (potassium sulphate, potassium magnesia, wood ash) to be very relevant. In practice, I spend one subcortex under the root and several weekly foliar top dressings. Potassium sulphate dissolves relatively easily, and potassium magnesia is somewhat worse. So I let her sit for a day. I bring, about 30 g potash fertilizer on an adult bush. The best concentration of the solution should be recognized as 30 g / 10 l. I often use solutions of maximum concentration up to 60 g / 10 l during the period when the earth is moistened with precipitation and it is not advisable to pour excess water under the bushes. For foliar feeding a concentration of 30 g of salt per 10 liters of solution or a 2-3-day infusion of 1 liter of ash in 10 liters of water is suitable
How to help the vine ripen
In order for the grape bush not to suffer in winter and be with a harvest, you need to grow a well-ripened vine with dense wood and a thin core.
Therefore, after planting a seedling on its one-year-old shoot, only one young, strongest green shoot should be left, the rest should be broken at the base. The mentioned green shoot completely takes over all the growth energy of the aerial part of the plant. After removal, one, but a tall shoot with high-quality matured wood is formed. The shoot that is located closer to the base of the one-year growth of the seedling grows more intensively. On elite annual seedlings, after planting, two shoots can be left to develop simultaneously, since their development of the bush occurs most rapidly.
Balanced nutrition for grapes
The grape bush also reacts to soil conditions. The growth and maturation of shoots depend on the composition of nutrients in the soil and their concentration (lack of the norm or excess). For the vast majority of amateur gardeners and winegrowers, especially for beginners, this topic remains mysterious, so it would be very advisable to take soil samples from your site for analysis to an agrochemical laboratory, where you can get expert advice on the use of fertilizers for a particular garden. Excessive use of fertilizers during planting and after it greatly inhibits the growth and development of the grape seedling, and this is reflected in the ripening of the shoots. There were cases when, from an overdose of superphosphate, seedlings had a “zero version” of their development (they grew only up to 40 cm) and died during the winter.
Shelter for ripening vines
The maturation of shoots begins not only with a decrease in the day, but also directly depends on an increase in the amplitude of fluctuations in the temperature of day and night. According to my observations, a good addition to the ripening of the vine on the seedling is to cover it with plastic wrap or non-woven covering material from the beginning of September. First you need to tilt the green, non-ripening shoot closer to the soil and fix it in this position. Then, using greenhouse wire arcs, make a low dome using a film. In northern latitudes, this technique can be used earlier.
As for the ripening of the shoots of adult vine bushes, here you can take note of the last of the above methods. To do this, cover the trellis with a film, fixing it on the bottom wire of the trellis with adhesive tape or tape. Do not forget to fix the edges or ends of the film cover with the same material. In the case of very hot weather, from the contact of the film with the leaves, the latter can burn and dry out, which is very undesirable for a grape bush. Therefore, in the upper part of the trellis at the level of the upper wire, it is necessary to install transverse struts 50 cm long with additional wire rows (broaches), then stretch the plastic film. Due to the increase in the internal under-film space, there will be no contact between the leaves and the film.
Rationing the load of the vine
Overloading grape bushes with crops and vegetative mass reduces the degree of ripening of shoots, it is better to underload bushes than to overload them. But a significant underload of adult bushes causes a violent growth of shoots. They "fatten" and as a result ripen worse. Each variety of a well-ripened vine has its own color: yellow, brown, red-brown and their shades. At the same time, the vine may be colored in appearance, but weakly matured and loose. With a slight bend of a well-ripened vine, its crackling is heard.
All short, thin and underdeveloped shoots on adult vines must be removed in a timely manner, as they take on the nutrients that full-fledged shoots lack for their best ripening.
Grape diseases also affect the ripening of the vine, to avoid this, it is necessary to spray fungicides (drugs against plant diseases) in a timely manner.
What needs to be done so that our beloved grape culture constantly pleases us with a beautiful appearance and a rich harvest? This question worries many gardeners, especially beginners who face many pitfalls when growing grapes, such as disease or an unripe vine. There are many nuances in the cultivation of grape plants, which I would like to know as much as possible. Grapes, the vine is not ripe, what are the reasons?
Mature vine shoots have quality wood with a dense core inside. During the growing season, the accumulation of nutrients that plants need in winter period. An unripe vine is unstable to winter cold, which can negatively affect the entire vineyard, therefore, it is very important that the ripening occurs completely. The main reasons due to which full maturation does not occur may be:
- rainy cool weather or extreme heat, in which the process of photosynthesis is disrupted;
- fungal diseases that occur if plants are not treated with appropriate preparations in time;
- the lack of nutrients, which occurs due to the failure to carry out timely feeding of the vineyard, as a result of which the metabolic processes of plants are disturbed, can also be the cause of non-ripening.
All these factors inhibit the normal growth and vital activity of plants, and do not allow the protective functions that preserve the grapes in winter frosts to be fully formed.
Elimination of causes
Providing plants with high-grade soil, with all the microelements necessary for growth and development, is an important component for good vine maturation. To do this, before starting the cultivation of a grape crop, it is necessary to examine the soil of the site where they plan to plant a vineyard, and, if necessary, enrich it with all the substances necessary for plants, avoiding oversaturation, which can also adversely affect the future development of the vine.
It is necessary to take a responsible attitude to the formation of vine bushes during planting, removing all unnecessary parts of plants that will take the nutrients necessary for the maturation of the main shoots. You can leave no more than two well-developed shoots, cutting off all other small shoots at the base.
When the air temperature reaches +7 degrees, the growth of grapes begins to slow down. After the leaves have already fallen, it makes no sense to stimulate the growth and maturation of the vine, therefore, you need to take care of reliable protection plants in winter, and if part of the plant was still damaged by frost, such shoots must be completely removed, however, the possibility of slowing down plant growth still remains.
Heavy harvests can also slow down vine maturation, so it's a good idea to control the number of bunches by removing extra ones, and pinch grapes, removing weak shoots to allow the remaining ones to ripen.
Feed the grapes in rainy and cold weather with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers, which will ensure the ripening of the vine. To do this, 100 grams of superphosphate is diluted in 10 liters of water. You can feed the grapes with a solution wood ash.
By timely treating grape plants with drugs for fungal diseases, it is also possible to eliminate the problem of not ripening the vine, if fungal diseases were the cause.
Carrying out two water-charging irrigations in autumn period will be able to ensure the maturation of the vine in the summer. The first time they are watered when the first frosts occurred, from which all the leaves died. Moisture is brought in regardless of whether it rains or not. For each plant, it is necessary to pour 5-10 buckets of water. In the first bucket, add 1 g of potassium permanganate. The second watering is carried out in dry weather before frost hits, so that the moisture does not have time to evaporate and freeze.
Autumn loosening of the soil with feeding organic fertilizers and superphosphate will also help in solving the problem. To do this, the following mixture is made - 5 kg of compost or humus is mixed with 300 grams of ash and 60 grams of superphosphate, then 1 gram of boric acid is added and all this is added to a depth of 25 cm when loosening, into special grooves.
Use of cover
In cold regions, in order to ensure the maturation of the vineyard, plant shelters are used with the help of arcs, on which a film or covering material is stretched. It is best to do this in mid-August, when daylight hours have already decreased significantly. In this way, there is a chance to save the entire vineyard.
To preserve grapes during winter cold, the unripe vine must be dug to a depth of about 20 cm, before that, reducing the length, and wrapping it with covering material or burlap along with the leaves. For this, you can also use arcs, on which the material with which the grapes are covered is placed on top, then sprinkled with soil mixed with 1: 1 compost. Young plants can be dug up and, having packed the roots so that they do not die, they can be placed for winter storage in a basement or cellar. Inventive winegrowers came up with the following method - they cover a young bush with cut five-liter plastic bottles, having previously made holes in them so that the plants can breathe normally, and they are covered with soil from above.
Many novice growers do not fully possess the skills of cultivating varieties, they need advice or tips. It is not easy to understand the intricacies of the case, to understand all the nuances. Prepared thematic material will help to master the art of creating favorable conditions for a ripening vine on grapes.
The main rule of the grower is that each variety has its own specific ripening period. Therefore, shrub species are classified according to several main features, on which care, its volume and timing will depend:
- Productivity. There are varieties of productive, low-yielding and champions.
- Resistance to weather conditions. Grapes originally grew in the south, most species continue to be cultivated in warm climates, while there are hybrids artificially adapted for the northern regions.
- Susceptibility to diseases and pests. Different in most varieties - from extreme insensitivity to complete effeminacy.
- Appointment. Table, technical and universal grapes (this also includes decorative).
The list can be continued by adding breeding methods, berry taste, transport tolerance and others. With regard to the timing of ripening, the month in which the clusters ripen, the berries are divided into ultra-early, extra-early, early-medium, medium, medium-late, late and very late.
Each type has its own undeniable advantages, by default, medium and late varieties are sweeter than early ones. But sometimes breeders breed hybrids that combine excellent taste and fast ripening.
The grape variety is "tied" to the region in which it will be grown: the later ones will never be able to ripen in the conditions of the short Siberian summer, and besides, they will not endure the test of cold in the winter.
Of the early species, the most popular are Aleshenkin, Arcadia, White Miracle, Zilga, Moscow White, Victoria, Early Vavilova, Kesha, Decorative and Muscat Chasselas. From the middle ones - Kishmish, Gift to Zaporozhye, Nadezhda AZOS. Late varieties - Moldova, December, Karaburnu, Taifi and others.
An experienced grower varies varieties on his plot, alternates them to harvest berries different shapes, taste, color, purpose throughout warm season. Therefore, residents of the southern regions of the Russian Federation, with long summers and mild winters, are in a more advantageous position.
Super early
This category includes varieties that ripen in 105 days. The countdown begins from the moment the central buds open, the full period depends on air temperature, weather, and humidity. In a hot, arid climate, berries ripen worse than in relatively cold ones. The main advantage of such species is that they are guaranteed to ripen and give a harvest. And most problems (pests and diseases) can be safely avoided with them.
very early
Ripen in the period from 105 to 115 days, suitable for the Middle Strip. Such varieties will be in demand, as they are among the first to bear fruit, serving delicious, fragrant berries on the table.
Early
Early grapes have a growing season of 115-120 days, which is enough for clusters to decorate sweet ripe fruits at the end of July. The spread in color, size of berries, bouquet is great - there is plenty to choose from.
early-middle
Medium
These include varieties that ripen in the time interval from 125 to 135 days. These are Armenia, Aelita, Beige, Voskhod, Seaside - more than 5 dozen items in total.
Late
A number of different, similar friend on the other, types of grape berries are closed by late varieties. They sing the slowest of all - 135 days and longer. There are many delicious, sweet, unique varieties in this category, but they are the most susceptible to the classic grape diseases require careful care.
These include Agadai, Dniester pink, Isabella, Tair, Anniversary of Moldova. They can grow in the southern regions, in others they will not have enough time to ripen.
Factors affecting the ripening of berries
This, of course, is the sun, air and water. Everything should be in moderation, to a greater extent it concerns watering and wind. Grapes are sensitive to waterlogging of the soil, the roots will simply rot, and constant drafts will cause a “runny nose” in the vine - the buds will develop poorly. Without knowledge of these subtleties, the harvest cannot be harvested.
Proper placement of vineyard rows
With a large-scale planting, the bushes are placed in such a way that they do not interfere with each other's development, do not obscure the sun. At different varieties different requirements as they can grow up, sideways or both directions at the same time. There are no universal solutions; you will have to look for clues in relation to the chosen species in order to provide the plant with optimal development conditions.
Sometimes mint is planted near grapes - its tart smell repels aphids. It is allowed to place bushes near the walls of buildings to protect seedlings from drafts.
How to speed up the ripening process of grapes
This section is not for lovers of dangerous experiments and all sorts of "improvements". It will not work to make an ultra-early variety from a late variety, otherwise breeders would not have been painstakingly working for decades to create adapted hybrids, crossing different varieties.
You can influence the growth process of the vine if you correctly choose a planting site, feed the bush, prune and stop pests from trying to settle on the grapes. Mulching, sheltering, banding, soil replacement (partial or complete), pinching are also used.
Spring treatments
In the spring there is a movement of juices in the vine, the kidneys wake up from hibernation. It is very important to "push" the plant to further development, help him gain strength and begin to actively develop. In the southern regions, they start at the end of February-beginning of March, in the Middle Strip - in April. Before sap flow, pruning is performed, this applies to varieties that are not sheltered for the winter.
In more severe regions, in April, they begin to open the vine, removing it from under a layer of sawdust, peat and needles. Be sure to remove dead, weak and old areas. For grapes older than 2 years of age, pruning is performed radically, removing more than half of the buds and sprouts.
You should get several last year's shoots with healthy ovaries. As soon as "overboard" during the week it will be 10 degrees, the vine will begin to "cry", actively secrete juice. It will last from 14 to 21 days. When frozen on the soil, sap flow is stretched over time, growth processes slow down.
The successful completion of the "crying" is evidenced by the pecking of the buds, the development of the first shoots. If there is experience in pruning, during this period, “extra” buds are mercilessly removed so that the vine can feed the rest. In the second half of April, the garter begins: the sleeves are oriented at an angle, the shoots are vertical.
In the same period, young bushes are planted. In May, the vine is thinned again, breaking off double and triple shoots (growing from one kidney) so that only one remains. The procedure is consistently repeated when the sprouts reach a length of 15-20, and then - 35-40 centimeters.
The crown is formed throughout May, removing stepchildren and all shoots coming from the rhizome: this way the most viable, strongest of them will remain, which will give strong, ripe clusters. In addition to those indicated, they carry out activities to feed the vines with mineral complexes. A suitable period for this is the first half of April.
Organic is suitable for future plantings of young grapes. The spring season is favorable for the prevention of diseases: the bushes are sprayed with chemical solutions.
soil mixing
Grapes do not like heavy, clay soils. Therefore, when planting, they practice mixing the soil with humus, sand, compost, depending on the condition of the site. Drainage is necessarily placed at the bottom - stones, rubble, brick breakage. The resulting "pie" from the earth mixture should be air and moisture permeable - so the vine will grow better.
pruning
Includes "selection" of shoots, clusters or individual berries with signs of underdevelopment, diseases, defects. Allows you to increase the chances of those remaining to survive, to accelerate their maturation.
Vine ringing
The ringing method is used to accelerate the ripening of berries, stimulate sap flow. It consists in performing in a certain place sharp knife cross section along the vine so that a narrow strip of bark is obtained. Usually carried out in early spring, before the bush finally wakes up.
pinching stepchildren
To avoid the growth of "extra" branches and rejuvenate the vine, pinching stepchildren is used. The procedure is carried out immediately after their appearance, removing the selected shoots. Good for medium fast grape varieties.
Breaking shoots
This is not about total destruction, but about the removal of unviable, weak shoots. Otherwise, they will draw juices from the vine and interfere with the development of other parts of the plant. For late species, it is an integral stage of processing.
Summer treatments
In July, and especially in August, they continue to actively take care of the grapes, regulating watering, applying pinching, fertilizing and chemical treatment from pests and diseases.
Timely reduction of watering grapes
The amount of liquid is reduced after the first decade of July: this way you can significantly speed up the ripening of berries and bring the harvest closer. If this is not done, the plant will form ovaries and fruits slowly, slowly, guided by its internal calendar.
pasynkovanie
When the vine has started up fresh sprouts that have grown and developed into stepchildren, they begin to thin out. Remove all shoots that are not involved in the development of the crop. This is done between July and August.
Summer processing
Summer is the time of active reproduction of pests, the appearance of diseases on leaves and berries. Processing includes pickling grapes at the first sign of gray rot, oidium, mildew, and insects. Apply both chemicals and folk remedies: soda, potassium permanganate.
Foliar top dressing to accelerate the ripeness of the gron
Many experienced winegrowers successfully apply root zone feeding, adding fertilizers under the stem. Not everyone knows that spraying at the end of summer (in August) with a weak infusion of wood ash or a solution of potassium monophosphate acts on ripening clusters as a stimulant.
Chasing shoots
In order to stop the growth of greenery and let the juices into the development of berries, chasing shoots is used: for this, the tops are cut off on them (approximately at the level of 15 sheets).
Removing extra grons
In abundantly fruiting grape varieties, as a necessary measure, the removal of “extra” clusters is used - shading, diseased, undeveloped. If this is not done, mother plant will try to feed all the grons, grow every berry, which, unfortunately, is not always possible.
Autumn procedures
Beginning gardeners often ask what to do in the fall besides harvesting. In the last warm days, the vineyard is mulched, freed from heavy clusters, dead branches are removed and prepared for winter. In the same period, for late varieties, growth stimulants are used that accelerate the ripening of berries.
Partial removal of berries
The measure is forced, but necessary. Especially for the Middle Strip, where the weather does not indulge in heat. On individual shoots, the upper clusters are removed so that the most powerful, heavy ones remain. Further, on the gronks, the berries are carefully examined and weak, unformed ones are cut out.
Mulching and insulation
For grapes, it is very important to maintain a constant temperature balance in the root zone. Therefore, it is mulched with peat, humus, foliage, covered with a dense film (can be black), burlap.
What to fertilize to accelerate the ripeness of the gron
Nothing beats sun, warm weather, and moderate watering for fast yet even ripening. If it is not possible to ensure the presence of all these components in full, mineral stimulants are used. They will come in handy to get a crop faster in the harsh climate of Siberia or the Urals.
The use of phosphorus
Phosphorus is very important for the nutrition of the vine, it is one of the main components that ensure its growth. The balance of the mineral in the soil is the key to flowering, normal ripening of berries in the hands. A common mineral complex containing phosphorus is superphosphate. It is used in the fall, watering the bush with an aqueous solution of fertilizer.
Ammonium molybdate
A solution of ammonium molybdate is used for foliar and root top dressing. It stimulates the growth and formation of ovaries, as it carries in a bound form one of the main, extremely important components for grapes - nitrogen.
How to tell if berries are ripe
The degree of ripeness is also easy to recognize by color: in fully formed fruits, it fully corresponds to the description in the catalog, a reference book of grape varieties.
There are many problems for beginner growers. For many, the vine does not have time to ripen by November. IN more vineyards suffer Middle lane and Siberia. Let's try to understand the reasons for the vine not ripening. Maybe not only because of the harsh climate, a thin vine is formed that is not able to survive the harsh winter.
The climate plays an important role in the formation of the underground and aboveground parts grape bush, but not decisive. There are many other factors that lead to lumber delay, to list just a few of them:
- Absence or incorrect rationing of the crop.
- Illiterate pruning, leading to excessive load on the eyes.
- Wrong garter of green shoots.
- Irrigation is absent or carried out without a system.
- The bush is infected, treatment is not carried out.
- Exposure of the plant to low or high temperatures, sudden changes in temperature.
- Lack of top dressing or unbalanced fertilization throughout the growing season.
green vine The ripening process is the preparation of the plant for winter. During preparation, there are many processes:
- starch accumulates;
- the amount of water in the tissues decreases;
- lignification of cell membranes occurs;
- cortex and cork cambium are formed.
All these processes must go through and end before the start of winter. The degree of maturation of the vine can be assessed visually. There is a certain classification of the degree of ripening of shoots, it is shown in the table.
This is what a mature vine looks like The ripened shoot is determined according to certain morphological features:
- kidneys are formed in the nodes;
- strands are visible between the nodes - thin strips, the color of which depends on the varietal affiliation of the grapes (gray, red-brown, yellow);
- a crack will be heard if the one-year-old, ripened shoot is bent.
The yield of the next year depends on the percentage of ripening of annual shoots. Starting in the spring, the grower should carry out activities that contribute to the maturation of the vine.
Summer activities to accelerate maturation
Proper care in the summer is watering, top dressing, garter, crop rationing, balanced top dressing. Any of these activities require certain knowledge. If a young vinedresser overfeeds the bushes nitrogen fertilizers, then by autumn it will have young shoots of poor quality.
Shoots on a bush fattening from excess nitrogen grow very quickly, thicken, have loose tissue. The color of such shoots is dull green. They do not tolerate frost well. When fertilizing in the summer, the emphasis should be on fertilizers that contain phosphorus and potassium (superphosphate). Ash can be used.
Provide the bush with an optimal load with brushes. On each fruiting vine, one cluster is left. Apply the method of partial removal of berries. From one bunch, you can remove 1/5 part. First of all, pluck out damaged berries.
When the shoots grow up to 1.5 m, chasing - removing the top of the vine. After chasing, the shoot stops growing, nutrients are used to form fruits and lignify shoots.
Correct garter
During the season, green shoots need to be tied up 2 to 4 times. The first garter is carried out before the start of flowering, and all subsequent ones - when the shoots grow to the next wire on the trellis. To make the leaves less obscure the bush, direct the green shoots from the center of the bush to the periphery at an angle of 35 °. Tie up with a figure eight, while eliminating the friction of the shoot on the wire. Start the shoot horizontally when it reaches the top wire.
Advice. Do not overtighten the shoots during the garter, this impairs the delivery of nutrients. Tie not at the top of the shoot, but at the thick, wood-covered part.
Pros of the right garter:
- The bush is well lit thanks to correct location lashes and shoots, which contributes to the normal development of the aerial part.
- Nutrients reach all parts of the aerial part.
- The plant is less susceptible to infections due to good ventilation of the bush.
Measures to increase the yield of the vine:
- Autumn pruning.
- loosening trunk circles by special technology.
- Double autumn watering.
Autumn pruning is carried out immediately after harvest. Remove weak shoots, aging sleeves. Loosen the area around the tree to a depth of 25 cm. Apply basic fertilizers for digging. Fertilizer consumption is given per 2 m 2 of the trunk circle:
- humus - 0.5 buckets;
- superphosphate - 30 g;
- boric acid - 1 g;
- ash - 300 g.
Be sure to carry out at least 2 moisture-charging irrigations. The time of the first comes when the leaves of the grapes die from the first real frosts. At this time, from 5 to 10 buckets of water should be poured under each bush. The volume depends on the age of the bush. Do not cancel watering, even if it is rainy. Add potassium permanganate to one bucket, approximately 1 g. The last watering is carried out before the onset of frost and the absence of rain.
Shelter from the frost of mature plants
The first real frost will kill the vine if it stays green for the winter. But as the practice of Siberian winegrowers shows, even a green vine can overwinter. To save the next year's harvest, you need to save the unripe shoots. To do this, you need to dig a trench with a depth of no more than 15 cm, line the bottom with used bags.
Cut the shoots to the number of buds corresponding to the variety, lay them in trenches, do not cut off the leaves. Install plastic arcs above the trench, stretch non-woven covering material. Pour fallen leaves, straw or tops left after harvesting on top of the material. Stretch a second layer of covering material over the grass. A multilayer "pie" will perfectly protect the aerial part of the bush from freezing.
How to save annual plants
An annual seedling can be dug out of the ground and planted in a container, the container can be taken to the basement until spring. As a soil, use a garden substrate or wet sand. One-year-olds stand in the cellar until February. In February, they can be taken out of the basement and placed on the windowsill.
Can go to others, more simple way. Take a large five-liter plastic bottle cut off the top with scissors. Place the resulting container over a young plant. Cover such a small, impromptu mini-greenhouse with earth to the very top. Shoots that have not matured to frost endure the winter period without falling out.
How to save a seedling if the vine has not ripened: video
Proper agricultural technology will reduce the percentage of unripened shoots, and the construction of shelters for the winter from covering material, spruce branches and other materials will protect against low temperatures.
With what impatience gardeners are waiting for the first fruits of their labor, and you always want to get them faster. Here some tricks of summer residents come to the rescue. Today we’ll talk about how to speed up the ripening of grapes and be the first to put ripe, poured bunches in a basket.
Ringing
The first method I would like to talk about is vine banding. It is good for accelerating the ripening of grapes, and for a significant increase in its yield. Based on the goals, the time for such a procedure is also selected:
- to increase the fertility of the plant - the period when the berries are still pea-sized;
- for quick ripening - before the start, in fact, of the growth itself or the ripening of fruits.
IN last case a cut on the vine slows down the flow of valuable substances from the leaves to the base. Everything goes to the berries, and they reach many times faster.
Ringing is used for varieties with an average ripening period.
Process description
For banding, you should arm yourself with a sharp knife. We choose a shoot that is already bearing fruit and make a cutout right under the lower bunch. It should be ring-shaped, about 5 mm wide.
If the procedure is carried out before the start of the growth of grapes, the fruit arrow is ringed at the base.
The method is really very simple, but effective. Somewhere 9 days ahead of schedule, you can enjoy ripe fruits. In addition, the berries themselves after this action grow larger.
Chasing shoots and rationing
Chasing
The next method, chasing shoots, is resorted to when the grapes are just beginning to ripen.
The process consists in removing the tips on the shoots that are actively growing. The fact is that it is these processes that take a large amount of nutrients intended for the entire bush.
For chasing, a pruner is required, with which the entire top of the branch is cut off, up to the first leaf.
In addition to speeding up the ripening of grapes, the berries will be sugary, and the quality of the wood will also improve. Chasing, as well as banding, is recommended for those species that are characterized by an average aging period.
Rationing
The essence of rationing is the removal of shoots without fruits. It is necessary to ensure that the branches on which the berries are supposed to be formed exceed the number of empty ones. After all, forces and useful substances are still spent on the non-fertile part.
It is too easy way which makes the grapes ripen faster. But in most cases it is used for late varieties.
foliar top dressing
Perhaps even the most inexperienced gardener knows that fertilization is the key to a quality crop.
But what kind of fertilizers should be used to accelerate the growth and ripening of grapes? It is usually advised to take phosphorus or ammonium molybdate, and at the end of flowering - bird or cattle droppings (mixed with potassium, phosphorus).
How is phosphorus used?
Phosphorus fertilizer is prepared in a proportion of 10 gr. substances per 10 liters of pure water. Phosphorus should dissolve without residue in the liquid.
Days 12, in extreme cases, 10, before the vine blooms, the plant is sprayed with the prepared solution. Areas of potential flowering are being processed.
Phosphorus fertilizer is applicable for varieties with late deadline aging.
Ammonium molybdate
The proportions for fertilizer with ammonium molybdate are exactly the same: 10 gr. crystals and 10 liters of water. It is also produced in tablets, usually other valuable substances are also present in their composition.
14 days before the flowering of the grapes, the diluted solution is sprayed over the leaves, paying attention to the zone of almost blooming flowers. Best time for the procedure - evening.
Other notable methods
How else can you help grapes ripen? Many educational videos have been shot and dozens of articles have been written on this topic. There are enough ways, and the most-most will be collected below. So, from simpler to more intricate.
thinning
A simple and generation-proven thinning method is to remove undeveloped berries. It is suitable for fruit ripening period. Incl. fruits growing in the middle of the bunch are removed, as well as concentrated in large numbers, spoiled, deformed, lethargic, etc., old withered leaves.
However, you should not get carried away either, it is enough to thin out up to 20% of the total number of berries.
As a result, the fruits receive more nutrition and sunlight, which, of course, allows them to ripen faster.
Stop watering
Another simple method that is used to speed up the ripening of grapes does not require any effort on the part of the summer resident at all. From about mid-July, watering the plant should be stopped.
It may sound strange, but it works. After all, moisture in large quantities only delays the pouring of clusters, the berries form more slowly. Depriving the plant of water, you will very soon get ripe grapes.
In addition, this method is also universal - suitable for late and medium types.
A SIMPLE WAY TO SPEED UP BERRIES AND VINES AT THE END OF SUMMER! GRAPE MINING, WHY, WHEN AND HOW?
Warming
Also, warming the bushes will help in this matter. After all, in whatever zone the grapes are grown, at night it cools to one degree or another, and ripening does not occur at this time.
Caring owners cover the ground around the plant with pebbles and concrete slab coated with black paint or bituminous varnish. Stones on top of the tiles will allow moisture to pass through, and dark tiles will act as a heat keeper.
Plus, there is such a way as mulching, i.e. use of thick black film. Wrapping the area around the trunk, during the day the film absorbs heat from the sun, and at night it shares this heat with the plant. This gives noticeable growth and helps the fruit ripen. Suitable for medium ripening grapes.
Proper soil
One of the reasons for the slow ripening of grapes is unsuitable soil (too clay, etc.).
This shortcoming can be easily corrected with the following composition:
- river pebbles or other small pebbles;
- sand;
- ordinary soil.
The resulting earth is loose, so to speak, breathing. In her root system develops well with access to more moisture and fertilizer. And with healthy and strong roots and the fruits ripen more readily.
Location selection
Those who grow late varieties are strongly advised to take care of the location of the vineyard in advance. It must be a sunny piece of land. The rows themselves are arranged from north to south, at a distance of about 1/3 of the length of the tapestries. Thus, a special microclimate is created that allows growing sugary, juicy and early ripening fruits.
