Stain - rules for applying the composition and tips for high-quality wood tinting (110 photos). Wood stain treatment
Wood has always been and will be in demand, because it is a natural, living material and no newfangled plastics can compete with it in creating an atmosphere of warmth, kindness and comfort in a room. But like any living material, wood products require care and protection. For this purpose, special varnishes and stains are widely used.
Varnishes and stains protect wooden products from dirt and scratches, and also protect wood from moisture penetration.
Processing wood with these products not only protects it from excess moisture, exposure to light, dirt, scratches and other adverse factors, but also gives sophistication and nobility, fixing and emphasizing the natural beauty of the treated wood pattern.
Removing the old coating
Lacquer should always be applied to a clean surface. If this is a new product, then there are no problems. But there are often cases when it is necessary to varnish already painted wood, such as window frames, doors or wooden floors, the surface of which has been damaged due to long-term use. And if the integrity of the coating is violated, then its protection is also violated. Therefore, before proceeding with a new treatment, you need to completely clean the surface of the layer of old varnish.
There are three main ways to clean wooden surfaces from old coatings: rinsing with special solvents, thermal or mechanical action. It is necessary to determine which method is better to use in each case individually, based on the type of product and the materials used to cover it.
The surface of the product is wetted with a solvent, then removed with a spatula.
In the first method, the old varnish is removed using special liquid solutions, with which the entire surface of the product is abundantly wetted with a paint brush. Immediately after processing, the product must be covered or wrapped plastic wrap to create a thermos effect. After 24 hours, the film is removed and the old coating is carefully removed with a spatula. If the coating is poorly removed, the whole procedure is repeated again, and so on until the wooden surface is completely cleaned.
When working with solvents, it is important to remember that they contain toxic substances. Therefore, they must be applied with glasses, rubber gloves and a respirator. At the end of the cleaning, the tree is wiped warm water and let it dry for at least a day. After that, the surface is again ground and primed. And only after that you can apply a new varnish.
In the second method, to remove the old coating, the tree is heated. In this case, the varnish softens and it is easy to remove it with a spatula. Heated with a building hair dryer, you can use and blowtorch. But working with it is more difficult, because you need to constantly monitor that the tree does not overheat and catch fire. To protect it, it is better to pre-moisten it with water and only then process it.
The latter method is more often used if you need to remove an old layer of varnish from a large area, such as a floor or wooden terrace. Take it off with grinder, and the remains of varnish are removed with sandpaper.
Surface preparation
All slots on wooden surface should be carefully puttied and sanded.
Lacquer can only be applied to a polished smooth surface. Regardless of whether new material you need to paint with varnish or the old one, it must be carefully examined. All found seams, cracks and knots must be processed and eliminated.
The gaps found between the seams and joints must be sealed with a special putty. After application, the putty is allowed to dry, and then, in order to remove possible irregularities, the putty areas are re-sanded with fine sandpaper.
It is also necessary to take into account the fact that it is pointless to putty a raw or even under-dried wood, and even more so to process it with drying oil, stain or varnish.
Drying, the wood is deformed, and the applied layer will inevitably be damaged.
Features of the use of stain for wood
The stain should be applied parallel to the wood fibers, avoiding contact between the layers.
For better protection wooden products they must be treated with a stain (impregnation). The stain, penetrating deep into the pores of the wood, enters into chemical reaction with tannins in the annual rings and gives the tree a durable water and light-protective color. It also protects the tree from mold fungi, grinder beetles and other pests and infections. Modern liquid stains are divided into three groups: alcohol, oil and water.
Water stains are of two types: in the form of ready-to-use solutions and in the form of a powder, from which such a solution must be prepared. This is the only type of stain that does not need white spirit, drying oil and other solvents. Mordants of this group have one significant drawback: penetrating inside the tree, they raise its fibers, which makes the tree unprotected from excess moisture. Although, on the other hand, such processing of the tree allows you to emphasize and highlight its structure. Therefore, today it is the most common type of stain.
Alcohol stain is produced in the same two varieties: in finished form and in powder. This stain cannot be applied manually with a brush, but only from an airbrush, since it dries in almost seconds.
Oil stain is the most convenient to use. It is easy to apply evenly, does not pick up wood fibers and dries quickly. In addition, by mixing dyes in oil, it can be used to give the tree almost any shade. Oil stains are diluted with white spirit or drying oil.
For the treatment of wooden surfaces with stain, the following are used:
- paint brush;
- foam roller;
- manual or automatic sprayer.
All these tools for staining wood are equivalent, and the choice should be guided solely by common sense. For example, staining several tens of squares of a wooden floor with a paint brush is very long, and the bindings window frames, except for the brush, you can’t process anything else.
The stain processing technique is no different from regular painting. The only condition: since most stains dry quickly, you need to work quickly, but carefully. It is important not to let the stain layer dry until the end of the work, otherwise there will be a seam in this place that is noticeably different from the rest of the surface. Therefore, you can not draw a lot of solution on the brush.
The stain is always applied parallel to the direction of the wood fibers. And you can’t move on to processing another figure or section without finishing work with the first one. In places where two sections are connected, care must be taken to ensure that the applied stain layers do not overlap each other.
Lacquer for wood surfaces
Depending on the manufacturing method, varnishes are divided into several types: alkyd, nitro-varnishes, polyurethane, oil, acrylic and alcohol.
Alkyd varnishes must be diluted with a solvent. The surface covered with them is protected from water and fire, does not fade in the sun. Acrylic varnishes create a film that is resistant to abrasion and retarding. Nitro-varnishes have in common with acrylic base but dry much faster. However, they are not able to withstand moisture and ultraviolet exposure for a long time.
Polyurethane varnishes are characterized by increased wear resistance. They form a durable film on the surface of the wood, which dries quickly. Suffice it to say that the wooden parts of ships are treated with varnishes of this particular group.
Oil varnishes used to be very popular, but today they are mainly used for floor treatment. Their main advantage is low, in comparison with other types of varnishes, the price. They require mandatory dilution with drying oil and dry for a long time.
Acrylic varnishes appeared relatively recently. Today it is the most versatile and easy-to-use varnish for wood. They can perform both indoor and outdoor work. It is diluted with water and does not have a sharp smell characteristic of other groups of varnishes. In terms of its protective properties, it is similar to alkyd varnishes, but much more economical to use.
Alcohol varnishes are used exclusively for the restoration of antique furniture.
The technique of applying varnish is similar to the technique of treating wood with wood stain. To work, you need a roller or a paint brush. Sometimes, if you need to process hard-to-reach places use a foam sponge. Recently, spray lacquer in cans has gained popularity, for which no tools are needed to apply. But the consumption of such varnish is much higher than the traditional one.
Usually the varnish is applied in 2-3 layers. Regardless of the type of varnish and its texture, the layers must be made thin, otherwise smudges will be visible on the painted surface. The decision whether to work with a roller or a brush depends solely on the amount of work and your preferences.
Work on the processing of wooden surfaces with stain and varnishing them does not require special qualifications from the performer, therefore anyone can do it. The main thing is to have enough patience and perseverance. And then the tree in your house will please the eye for a long time with a noble brilliance and chic appearance.
All photos from the article
In this article, we will look at how to use wood stain. This substance is used, as a rule, to give cheap types of wood the aesthetics of expensive ones. In some cases, it additionally endows the wooden surface with protective functions. But let's talk about everything in more detail.
General provisions
The main feature of the stain is that, unlike paintwork materials it does not create a film layer on the wooden surface, but penetrates deep into its fibers.
This allows you to highlight the inherent advantages of such a solution:
- Emphasizing and ennobling the natural wood pattern.
- Lack of sealing. The tree impregnated with the solution in question continues to "breathe".
- Preservation of the texture of a wooden surface with all its roughness.
- Strengthening moisture resistance and resistance to mechanical damage . By filling the wood pores, such compounds prevent further penetration of water through them and strengthen their structure.
- Frost resistance. The stain that has penetrated into the tree does not suffer in any way from the impact low temperatures unlike, whose layers have a limited number of freeze and thaw cycles.
- Durability . Does not need restoration long years.
Exploitation
Before you paint a tree with stain, you need to select it. Let's start with this:
Stage number 1: composition selection
All stains, depending on their composition, are divided into the following groups:
| Group name | pros | Minuses |
| Aquatic |
|
|
| Alcoholic |
|
|
| Nitro (solvent based) |
|
|
| Oily |
|
|
Tip: when using toxic compounds Be sure to wear a respirator when indoors.
Otherwise, you can get serious poisoning.
Separately, it is worth mentioning acrylic stains, which also have a water base, but at the same time have greater strength and do not raise lint during application. But such a product is much more expensive.
Stage number 2: color selection
The impregnation color is selected in accordance with a special international classification, an example of which is shown in the figure above.
But relying on a conditional name alone is not worth it for the following reasons:
- Differences in production technology. Each manufacturer has its own specifics for the manufacture of wood stain, which also affects its tone. So, for example, "Larch" "Tsaritsyno colors" has a brownish-pink tint, and a similar class in "Novbytkhim" has a delicate yellowish color.
- Structural features of processed wood. More porous rocks will absorb the solution faster, and those with a pronounced texture will collect it in relief patterns, all this will affect the final appearance of the coating.
Tip: it is better to choose the required color according to specially colored dies, which are available in specialized stores as samples.
Only in this way will you get the most complete picture of the final shade of the applied stain.
Stage number 3: tool selection
Depending on how long the wood stain dries, you should also choose the tool with which it will be applied:
Stage number 4: surface preparation
Also, before painting a tree with a stain, it is necessary to prepare it in a certain way:
- We eliminate the old coating by grinding and sanding the wooden surface. So we simultaneously align it for better processing.
- We remove grease stains by wiping them with a cloth soaked in white spirit.
- If work is carried out with coniferous wood, then it will also be necessary to eliminate the natural oils in its structure, which otherwise will interfere with the penetration of the stain.
The following solutions are suitable for this task:
- We heat one liter of water to 60 degrees Celsius, after which we add potassium carbonate in an amount of 50 g and soda ash - 60 g.
- We create a five percent soda solution by diluting 50 g of caustic soda in one liter of warm water.
- We combine 0.75 liters of distilled water with a quarter kilogram of acetone.
We apply any of the listed mixtures in several layers to the tree, and after thirty minutes we wipe it with a rag and rinse with warm water.
Stage number 5: staining
Now let's directly consider how to apply wood stain on a tree:
- We slightly heat the solution, which allows us to increase its intensity of penetration into the wood surface.
- Moderately wet the tool chosen for work in the stain. Excessive moisture can cause the formation of streaks. In the case of using a spray gun, fill its tank.
- We process the wood along the grain with confident and continuous brush strokes to avoid stains.
- Eliminate any excess solution with a clean rag.
- Leave the surface to dry completely.
- Then, in a similar way, apply another 2-3 layers to create the desired saturation of the shade.
Conclusion
We looked at how to treat wood stain on your own. In addition to describing the features of the staining itself, the instructions included recommendations for choosing a solution and a working tool. The process itself is quite simple, and no complications should arise during its implementation.
The video in this article will provide your attention for familiarization Additional materials related to the topic. Take good care of wood structures.
If you are working with wood and you need to give it a certain color, then you will definitely need a stain. To date, there are several types of stain, which differ in composition. You can find the following in stores types of stains:
- water;
- alcohol;
- oil;
- nitro stains.
Consider each type of stain in more detail.
1. water stain- this is the most common type. It gives the opportunity to paint wood in any tone: from the lightest "pine" color to dark mahogany. Available in liquid and dry form. Liquid water stain can be used immediately, but the dry powder must first be mixed with warm water.
This type of wood stain is almost odorless, which is a big advantage if wood staining takes place indoors. But it dries for quite a long time - within 12-14 hours. In addition, water stain can lift the pile of wood during staining, and this leads to the fact that wood after staining needs to be sanded.
Of all water stains, acrylic stains are separately distinguished, which are based on acrylic resin. They are more resistant to fading, do not wash out with water and lift wood fibers much less. However, they have one drawback - a high price.
2. Alcohol stain is a solution of various aniline dyes in alcohol (denatured alcohol). After applying the stain, the colorants penetrate into the texture of the wood, and the alcohol evaporates. This type of stain dries quickly enough - in 15-20 minutes. That is why it must be applied very quickly to prevent stains and washouts. Uniform staining with alcohol stain is achieved by using an airbrush to spray it.
3. Nitromordant- stain made on the basis of solvents. According to the principle of action, it is similar to alcohol stain. It is applied quickly and with a sprayer.
4. Oil stain- a mixture of dyes and oil (most often linseed). This type of stain is applied easily and evenly. Oil stain does not pick up fibres. The colorants of the oil stain have a high light fastness, which allows the surface to retain its brightness and original appearance for many years. Oil stain can be applied with a spray gun, a wide brush or rags. Oil stain dries in 2-4 hours.
Choice of stain color.
Each color of the stain has its own code, which corresponds to the international classification, and a name that matches the type of wood, the color of which is copied by the stain. For example, stain "Chestnut", "Walnut" or "Cherry". But it is very short-sighted to choose a stain only by the name or the picture on the label, as an unforeseen result may turn out. There are special reasons for this:
1. If stains of the same color and cipher were made by different manufacturers, then they may have different shades. For example, the water stain "Larch" by the manufacturer "Tsaritsyno paints" has a pinkish-brown tint, and the "Larch" produced by "Novbytchim" has a pale yellow color. IN various stores there are samples that were painted with different stains. Such samples will convey the color of the stain much more accurately than the picture on the label.
2. The natural color, structure and density of wood can also affect the result. staining with stain. For example, stain on mahogany will look much darker than on maple (if the stain used was the same tone). This is due to the fact that mahogany wood has more dark shade than maple wood.
The same test with pine and maple samples will demonstrate that pine wood stains faster and more intensely. Pine has a softer and more porous wood, while maple is denser and harder. For this reason, it is easier for dyes to penetrate pine wood.
The texture of the wood also affects the degree of staining. Oak has a pronounced structure, so it quickly darkens with stain, as the coloring substances penetrate into the recesses of the veins. But the main part of the oak wood, which is outside the veins, is painted more slowly and not so brightly.
Mortar application methods.
To paint wood stain, you can use an airbrush (nozzle size 1.5 mm or less), a wide brush (width 100 mm), a foam swab or rags. For processing a large area, it is better to use an airbrush. It is also used when working with nitrimorils and alcohol stains, as they dry very quickly, and when using brushes or tampons, stains appear on the surface of the wood.
Brushes, swabs and rags are great for working with water and oil stains. Brushes with natural bristles are suitable for oil stains, and with synthetic bristles - for water stains. The bristles of the brush should be strong and should not leave behind hairs on the surface of the wood.
If fabrics or tampons are used to work with the stain, then they should be cotton or foam rubber. They should not leave behind pile and threads that can remain on the painted surface and, thereby, reduce the quality of the coating.
Preparing for applying the stain: making a color sample.
After stain purchases, but before the start of the staining itself, it would be useful to make a color test. Its need is that it will help to understand whether this stain is suitable for the surface. In addition, the test will allow you to find out what color will turn out in the end, and will help determine the number of layers of application.
To make a color test, you will need a board treated in the same way as the wood that is to be painted. Undoubtedly, the wood species of the sample must match the main surface.
The plank is covered with one layer of stain. After drying, a second layer is applied to 2/3 of the sample. The third layer is applied to 1/3 of the plank. After the stain has dried, the plank is varnished in two layers. Comparing the brightness of the coloring of each part of the sample board, the optimal number of layers for a particular surface is chosen.
In order to choose the best option, you need to do a few test stains. Several boards are painted with different stains and then the final choice is made.
Wood treatment before staining.
Before applying the stain, the wood must be prepared. There are several processing steps:
1. First you need to remove the old coating, if any. This is done by scraping and sanding the boards. This process will not only remove the old coating, but also level the wooden surface.
2. Clean the surface from grease and oil stains. To do this, wipe the problem areas with a rag that has been dipped in white spirit or gasoline.
3. Coniferous woods must be deresined before staining with stain. It is necessary to remove resin from the wood structure, which may interfere with stain absorbency. There are several types of solutions for deresining:
Dissolve 50 g of potassium carbonate and 60 g of soda ash in 1 liter of water heated to 60 degrees.
In 1 l warm water dissolve 50 g of caustic soda. Treat the surface with the resulting soda solution.
Mix 750 ml of distilled water with 250 g of acetone.
Any of these solutions must be applied to the surface of the wood in several layers. After 30 minutes, wipe the wood with a cotton cloth and rinse with warm water.
Stages of staining a wooden surface with wood stain.
If the wooden surface is properly prepared for staining, then the procedure for applying the stain will be quite simple. It is carried out in the following steps:
1. First, the stain needs to be slightly warmed up to increase its degree of penetration into the wood.
2. A brush, rag or swab is moistened in the stain. In no case do not allow strong moisture, as streaks may appear and the coloring will become uneven. If a sprayer is used, then the stain is poured into the tank.
3. The stain is applied along the wood fibers. It is necessary to apply the stain quickly and without interruption to avoid staining. If streaks appear, then the surface must be wiped with a cloth, collecting excess liquid along the fibres. Then the surface is left until the stain is completely dry.
4. Similarly, several more layers of stain are applied in order to obtain the desired shade (usually 2-3 layers).
5. Then surface, stained, varnished in several layers. Each intermediate layer is sanded with fine-grained sanding paper.
Stain, as a coating of wooden surfaces, not only preserves wood, but also strengthens it. decorative properties. With the help of stain, inexpensive wood species can be turned into valuable exotic wood. Let's talk about how to properly stain a wooden surface.
How to choose the right stain
Stain, or, as it is also called, stain, is a finishing coating for wood, which, without painting over, favorably emphasizes its structure. It consists of a pigment and a base, which can be water, alcohol, oil. Recently, water stains based on acrylic resins have become very popular. In addition to being decorative, they have the properties of a good antiseptic.
Another type of stain is wax. Thin film wax, which is formed when the surface is covered with stain, gives not only decorative effect natural wood, but also reliably protect it from water.
When choosing a stain, you must be guided by the following criteria:
- Operating environment (outdoor or interior work). The composition of the stain for outdoor use includes pigments that are resistant to ultraviolet rays.
- Composition safety. In children's rooms or children's household items, wood stains without harmful compounds are used. These include stains on a water, oil or wax basis.
- Powdered or ready-made stain. Water and alcohol stains are also available in dry form. They need to be bred at home. If there is any doubt that the desired result will be obtained, then it is better to give preference to the finished stain.
- The method of applying stain to the surface. Alcohol stains are best applied with a spray gun, as they dry very quickly, and it is difficult to achieve an even coating. Small objects and surfaces are covered with brushes, foam or fabric swabs. With a large area of \u200b\u200bfinishing, a sprayer is used.
- Design decision interior or exterior. It is important to know that the sample presented in the store often differs in color from what is obtained when finishing. The reason for this can be a different breed and structure of the tree, illumination. Even different production batches of the same type of stain have differences in shades when coated.
Sequence of work
Surface preparation
A high-quality finish is obtained only on a surface cleaned of dust, dirt and grease, without defects in wood processing. If the surface of the wood has already been painted with something, then old finish must be removed completely. Coniferous trees need to be tarred.
The cleaned surface is polished twice. First, this is done using a larger sandpaper (No. 120), then a smaller one (No. 220). Wood grinding is carried out only along the fibers. The resulting dust is removed with a damp cloth, and dirt with some solvent or alcohol.
It is possible to apply stain only on a clean and dry surface of the tree. In order not to make a mistake with the color of the coating, make a test paint. You need to take a small sample. First, cover it with one layer of stain, after complete drying, cover 2/3 of the sample with a second layer. The third layer should cover 1/3 of the wood piece. This will allow you to choose your favorite finish.
Application methods
With a brush, you can apply almost any stain to the prepared surface. Difficulties arise only with alcohol-based stains due to fast drying. vertical surface they begin to cover from below so that smudges are not absorbed by unpainted wood. This greatly improves the uniformity of the coating.
The second and subsequent layers can be applied after the previous one has dried. For stains on oil based the drying process lasts up to 3 days, for water - up to 3 hours. The coating is applied along the grain of the wood. When painting the surface with a brush, it is important not to go into neighboring areas that have already been stained. This way you can avoid unwanted stains.
Stain on water based can lift the villi of the tree. After the first layer, wait for the stain to dry and sand the surface with sandpaper. Then remove the resulting dust and cover the surface with the next layer.
A swab is applied stain by rubbing. This method is only suitable for small surfaces. A tampon can be made from a piece of foam or thick fabric. Wax stains are applied with this method. It allows you to achieve a uniform surface coverage. This is especially true for rocks with a porous structure.
Spraying stain on a wooden surface is most often used for large areas coatings. Alcohol-based stains dry quickly and it is difficult to avoid spotting during application, for example with a brush or swab. Spraying with an airbrush allows you to achieve a high decorative quality of the finish, regardless of the stain base.
Defects in work and ways to eliminate them
It is very important when applying the stain to avoid smudges, which are quickly absorbed into the wood and significantly impair the appearance of the finish. A small amount of stain on the brush and a thin layer of coating will avoid this defect.
You can remove unwanted stains from the stain with the help of sandpaper, in a more complex case - a planer. You will have to act carefully, gradually removing the darkened area of \u200b\u200bwood and smoothing out sharp transitions.
For porous wood species, in which the absorption of the coating occurs unevenly, it is better to use wax-based stains or gel stains. They cover the surface with a thin layer and do not penetrate deep into the structure of the tree. You can also treat the surface of the wood with a special conditioning compound that will prevent the stain from being actively absorbed.
The “apple” defect occurs when poor-quality pigment diluents or lack of skill in applying stain by spraying. Spots form on the surface covered with stain.
When applying the stain with an airbrush, in order to avoid coating defects, it is necessary to adjust the material supply torch. It should be oval in shape and the spray angle should be approximately 90°.
Coating defects can occur from poor-quality grinding of the wood surface. In this case, it is necessary to remove the layer and sand it again. Then cover the surface with stain.
The remaining stains of grease, dirt with poor cleaning will appear when applying stain. Here, too, it is necessary to remove the poor-quality layer by grinding, clean and degrease the surface. Apply a new coat of paint to clean, dry wood.
Making a stain with your own hands
There is a large number folk recipes making stains at home. Various shades brown color can be obtained by preparing a solution of ordinary potassium permanganate. You need to experiment a little to achieve the desired result, choosing the concentration of the solution. The surface stained with potassium permanganate must be protected from fading, for example, with varnish.
Another a simple means stained wood is a strong brew of tea. It will give the wood a rich brown tint. You can also dry the tree with strong brewed coffee. Natural Brown color receives wood treated with a rich decoction of the shell walnut crushed to powder.
A decoction of oak bark will give the surface of the tree a shade of black. Golden color is obtained by processing wood with a decoction of buckthorn fruits. A red-brown tint can be obtained by treating the wooden surface with a concentrated decoction of onion peel.
How to achieve a special effect when staining a tree
An interesting effect of aged boards can be obtained by using, for example, a white water stain as the main tone. After drying this layer, a layer of gray or black tone of thick wax stain is applied, which will emphasize the texture of the wood. In this way, you can combine stains of different colors.
The appearance of worn worn boards is obtained by applying a water stain to the surface as a background. Don't let it dry, right places it is necessary to wipe off part of the stain, simulating abrasion. After complete drying, cover the surface of the product with a second layer.
The stained surface of the wood is lightly fired to reveal the texture. gas burner. You can do the firing only after the stain has dried. Next, the surface is cleaned with a shoe brush.
A beautiful effect with a pronounced wood structure is obtained when applying the first layer with a water-based stain. white color. After drying, an oil stain is applied to the main background with the addition of melted wax.
Not all wood stains have antiseptic properties and can protect wood from influence. external environment Therefore, it is better to varnish the treated wood on top to prolong its service life.
Not everyone can afford to equip mahogany parquet at home. But you can give flooring noble shade, repainting it under an expensive, elite wood species. This is done by tinting with a composition called stain.
Stain is a liquid with tinting properties, due to which the wood acquires a shade that is not characteristic of it. When applying the substance, a film does not form on the surface. It penetrates inside, changing the color of the parquet, but does not hide the texture of the wood and does not impair its properties. Thus, the pine floor can be visually “turned” into walnut. Wood stains for coloring wood differ, depending on their composition:- Water. Got most widespread. Able to give the material any color, ranging from light to dark red. They are liquid, that is, ready to use, and in the form of a dry powder that needs to be diluted with water. A big plus is the absence of smell, but be prepared that water stains dry for 12-14 hours. During the application process, some inconvenience may occur, such as raising the pile of wood, which can be eliminated by subsequent grinding of the surface. good properties water-based acrylic stains differ, which are resistant to fading and washout, but are characterized by a high price.
- Alcoholic. These are solutions of dyes of various kinds in alcohol. After the composition has been applied, the alcohol evaporates, and the pigment penetrates the wood, coloring it. The tinting process is very fast - within half an hour. Therefore, the corresponding requirements are put forward for the application procedure: you need to paint quickly to avoid washouts and stains. To achieve the perfect uniform color, use an airbrush.
- Nitromordant. Such compositions are made on the basis of solvents. If you characterize their specifics, then they are similar to alcohol ones, as they need to be applied quickly and require the use of a sprayer.
- Oil. In this case, the coloring matter is dissolved in oil, usually linseed. When stained, the wood fibers do not rise. Coloring pigments are characterized by high light fastness, that is, painted wood will not lose its brightness over time. For applying oil stain, you can use different tool, be it a rag, a brush or an airbrush. The time for which the stain dries is 2-4 hours.
- Airbrush, the nozzle size of which is not more than one and a half millimeters;
- Brush, its width should reach 100 mm;
- Rags;
- Tampon made of foam rubber.
When processing a large area, working with alcohol and nitro stains, it is better to choose an airbrush. For water and oil formulations other tools are used. Brushes made from natural bristles The best decision for oil stains, from synthetic - for water-soluble.
It is recommended to check the stain for color matching beforehand. A color test is required to analyze the suitability of the stain for a specific surface in order to find out how many coats are needed. To do this, take a polished, sanded board from the same breed as the main wooden surface, and apply one layer of stain. Wait until dry and apply a second coat, covering approximately 2/3 of the sample space. By analogy, the third layer should cover only 1/3 of the board. From above, the surface should be varnished in 2 layers. So you can compare intensity different options staining and decide how many layers you need. You can make several test colors using different types stain.
For deresining, you can prepare a special solution:
- Heat 1 liter of water to 60 degrees, pour in potassium carbonate, it will need 50 g. You also need to add 60 g of soda ash.
- Alternatively, dissolve 50 g of caustic soda in water.
- Mix 750 ml of distilled water and acetone. The last one is taken 250 g.
Apply the liquid to the boards, it is better to treat the surface several times. After 30 minutes, rinse the surface with warm water.
Now we come to the main question and consider step by step technology staining wood floor:- First, slightly heat the substance to enhance the penetration of the composition into the structure of the tree.
- When wetting the instrument in the stain, do not allow the rag or brush to become excessively damp to prevent drips and uneven coverage.
- If you use a sprayer, then pour the product into a special reservoir.
- When applying the stain, it is necessary to work along the fibers, quickly. Do not take breaks, as this can cause stains.
- But if streaks still appear, the floor needs to be wiped soft cloth. The liquid will stretch along the fibers.
- Leave the surface to dry.
- Do a few more layers in the same way to achieve the desired shade. As a rule, two or three are enough.
- At the final stage, the parquet is varnished. Also make several layers, sanding the surface each time using fine-grained sanding paper.
Thus, the technology of applying stain is simple and understandable to any owner. To consolidate the acquired knowledge, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the video clip.
