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Grow cucumber seedlings for the greenhouse. How to grow seedlings of cucumbers at home for a greenhouse? Composition of the soil mixture

Cucumbers - thermophilic plants, but they are most popular not in the south, but in the central regions of our country, where even cucumber festivals are held at the height of summer. A Russian person cannot be deprived of this vegetable, this is one of our Russian "brands". Most often, cucumbers are grown by sowing seeds directly into the garden, but in order to obtain early production, seeds are often sown to obtain seedlings at home.

Is it necessary to plant cucumbers through seedlings

Cucumbers are planted almost throughout our country: somewhere in open ground, somewhere in greenhouses, and in the north - only in heated greenhouses. Once upon a time, cucumbers were eaten only in summer. In recent Soviet years long greenhouse cucumbers started selling by the day Soviet army, now cucumbers of various varieties can be bought almost all year round. For their cultivation in large agricultural enterprises, huge greenhouses have been built. If we talk about Russian summer residents, they mainly sow cucumbers only in the spring, but they try to do it early in order to get the first crispy products when the body has not yet been spoiled by summer vitamins.

Once in the spring it was for happiness to buy such long cucumbers: there were no others offered

On greater territory In our country, there is no need for mandatory sowing of cucumber seeds for seedlings: in many varieties and hybrids, the first cucumbers ripen within 33-38 days after germination, and even by sowing seeds in a garden at the beginning of summer, you can grow so many cucumbers that it’s enough to eat, and conserve. But if you want to get the products early, at the very beginning of summer, and there are no greenhouses in the country, then it makes sense to prepare seedlings. It is not difficult to do this in a city apartment, because, unlike, for example, cabbage seedlings, cucumber seedlings do not require low temperatures, and room conditions suit her perfectly. And seedlings grow quickly, it does not require much time. It does not require a lot of space on the windowsill, because to get early production it is enough to plant no more than a dozen copies.

When to sow: lunar calendar 2019

IN middle lane It is desirable for Russia to plant cucumbers in the garden not earlier than the end of spring (in the greenhouse, of course, earlier, depending on its quality). And since about a month should pass from the moment of sowing seeds to planting seedlings, best timing sowing seeds fall on the third decade of April. These dates are almost independent of the variety of cucumbers: they all grow at approximately the same rate, and all varieties and hybrids are planted and sown at almost the same time.

However, in recent years, many gardeners and gardeners have been checking the dates of their summer cottages with the phases of the movement of heavenly bodies, and many print and electronic publications systematically publish various lunar calendars, which give the most favorable and prohibited dates for sowing or planting certain crops, caring for them, harvesting. It is not always correct to use such calendars, since analysis shows that different publishers indicate completely different dates in them for the same occasion. Sometimes those days that in one newspaper are called the best for sowing are recognized as forbidden in another. Therefore, those who want to do everything “as the Moon orders” must go through many sources, analyze them and make the right decision for themselves.

It is believed that the sowing of cucumbers should be done during the period of the growing moon, closer to the days of the new moon. At this time, growth processes are activated, which has a good effect not only on seed spitting, but also on obtaining a future harvest. Based on this, many sources call the most favorable dates in 2019:

• March 20, 25;
• April 10, 11, 12;
• 12, 13 May.

It is believed that cucumbers should be sown during the waxing moon.

However, in other editions, the given dates are shifted by several days in one direction or another. A thorough analysis allows us to conclude that there is no special point for a working person to focus on such calendars, otherwise you can simply skip all the sowing dates and be left without a harvest. Yes, probably, there is something in the influence of heavenly bodies on the terrestrial flora, and the phases of the moon do in some way affect the well-being of plants. But, most likely, not enough to fanatically follow the instructions of astrologers. After all, no one can help us better than we can do it ourselves!

In our next article, you will learn about the features of growing healthy seedling bell pepper:

Preliminary preparation

For sowing cucumber seeds for seedlings, you need to prepare: the seeds themselves, nutrient soil and containers in which we will place this soil. As for containers, everything is absolutely clear here: unlike many vegetables, cucumber seedlings should be grown exclusively in individual cups! No boxes are suitable in this case: cucumbers do not tolerate transplants, the dive operation is excluded for them. Moreover, the design of the cups should be such that seedlings can be extracted from them with minimal damage to the root system. Best of all - completely without damage, and this is possible only with the use of peat pots or tablets. In addition, containers for seedlings of cucumbers should be quite large: from 300 ml, and preferably about half a liter: seedlings grow very quickly.

Seed preparation

Cucumbers are good because you do not need to buy their seeds every year: they are stored for a very long time, sometimes up to 8 years. Moreover, fresh seeds are worse than those that have lain for two or three years. For sowing, it is preferable to use two-, three-, four-year-old seeds. On plants grown from them, female flowers appear earlier - which means that they begin to bear fruit faster. Of course, this does not apply to those hybrids in which almost all flowers are female.

As for the seeds from our cucumbers, the situation here is becoming more and more complicated every year. This is simply due to the invasion of a huge number of new hybrids (F1). To be honest, I can’t even believe that they are all really new, the variety of bags in seed stores is so great! Sometimes it seems: well, what else can be invented in a cucumber? But hybrids are much more expensive than the good old seeds! Of course, their harvest is usually higher, and their resistance to adverse conditions and pests is more reliable ... But our grandmothers always planted proven varieties of cucumbers and never left without a crop. Sometimes we “sin” with this, we also take seeds from our own fruits.

By the way: among the usual trihedral fruits (if you look closely, the faces are clearly visible in the yellowed, fully ripened cucumbers: they are, in fact, not quite cylindrical) sometimes there are tetrahedral specimens. They have better seeds.

However, when more and more hybrids are planted around, it becomes dangerous to take seeds from your own varieties: everything is pollinated, and what will happen in the end is not known in advance. Therefore, you have to gradually abandon the harvesting of cucumber seeds from your garden and use the store ones. And since the actual date of their collection is unknown, even they should be kept for a year in the nightstand. In general, the main stages of seed preparation are as follows (but not all of them are required):

1. Calibration.
2. Heating dry seeds.
3. Disinfection.
4. Swelling in water.
5. hardening.
6. Germination.

Seed calibration can be done manually: cucumber seeds are quite large, and it is easy to identify empty seeds by touch. It's easier, of course, to lower them into a solution table salt(dessert spoon in a glass of water), shake and wait a few minutes. The wicked will not drown.

If we sow newly purchased seeds, before sowing they need to be warmed up for a couple of days by the radiator. This reduces the amount of empty flower.

Cucumber seeds are quite large and easy to handle.

Is seed disinfection necessary? For seeds of well-known companies bought in a serious store, it is not required. It is better to first disinfect your own seeds or from "Aunt Masha" and only then engage in their germination or sowing. The simplest thing is to hold them for 15–20 minutes in a strong solution of potassium permanganate. No need to prepare a strictly 1% solution, as advised in most sources! Well, where do you get such accurate scales at home? The solution should be dark purple in color. You just have to wait until all the potassium permanganate crystals dissolve, the dissolution is slow! After disinfection, rinse the seeds well with clean water.

Some gardeners then soak the seeds in fertilizer solutions (nitrophoska, urea, ash, etc.). The measure is useful, but not mandatory.

After disinfection, it is useful to harden. This operation is especially important if planting seedlings in open ground is planned for a risky period (when cooling is still possible). For planting in a greenhouse, it makes no sense to harden the seeds. It is not necessary to harden the seeds of hybrids. Hardening is simply keeping wet seeds in a cloth in a refrigerator. You need to keep them there from 18 to 24 hours.

Before sowing, the seeds are kept for about a day (until they swell) in clean warm water (from 20 to 30 ° C). Then they are slightly dried so that they do not stick together during sowing. Germinate seeds at the same temperature, best of all in wet sawdust, sand or moss. Germination is completed when a small root is formed - half the length of the seed.

If, during germination, such long roots managed to grow, as in the photo, it will already be difficult to sow them: you can break off

Can you do none of the above? Can! Seeds will sprout even when dry. Only a little later. But after all, in the spring there is enough time, there is no need to rush anywhere? Therefore, we select from the described steps only those that are strictly necessary in each specific situation.

Soil preparation

To grow seedlings, cucumber requires light, neutral in acidity, moisture and breathable soil. It should be very nutritious, since the cucumber will live in it for no more than a month, the seedlings grow very quickly, you can not have time with top dressing. And it's better to do without them. If ready-made soil is bought in a store, it should be just for cucumbers and not be very cheap: any land of an unknown manufacturer may not be nutritious enough. It is not necessary to disinfect the purchased soil, but if it was purchased back in winter, it is better to keep it in the cold for several days.

For self-preparation of the nutrient mixture, it is necessary to mix soddy soil, good compost, peat and sand. Compost is taken in two parts, the remaining components - one at a time. Of course, not all components are always at hand, options are possible: someone adds sawdust, someone replaces sand with perlite, etc. But if the earth is taken directly from the garden, it must be disinfected: ignited in the oven (oh, how at the same time it smells wonderful in the kitchen!) Or spill a pink solution of potassium permanganate. If there is no humus at all, you will have to add a complex mineral fertilizer(for example, up to 50 g of azofoska per bucket of mixture). Ordinary wood ash is very good in a mixture for cucumbers (a glass on a bucket of soil).

Sometimes the prepared soil mixture is treated with complex fungicides: Fitosporin, Fitoverm, etc. All this, of course, is good, but cucumbers cost a pretty penny! If there is a danger that harmful microorganisms are not completely destroyed in the calcined earth, and there is no potassium permanganate in the house, it will be cheaper to shed the earth with a blue solution of copper sulfate. Prepared soil in stage normal humidity it is necessary to pour into cups, placing a centimeter layer of drainage on the bottom, and let it stand for a day, ripen.

How to grow seedlings of cucumbers at home: technology and features

Sowing seeds in cups is not difficult. Seeds are placed in 2 pieces to a depth of about 1.5 cm, after germination, only one of them is left in a glass (for expensive prepared seeds, this is an unnecessary luxury, you can do it one at a time). Seeds are sprinkled with soil and sprayed with crops from a spray bottle. Put the cups in a tray, cover with glass or a transparent film and transfer to a warm place (preferably 25–28 ° C). Seedlings can be expected in 5-8 days, sometimes a little earlier.

Growing seedlings on a windowsill

The best place for seedlings is a warm window sill lit by the sun. Until the emergence of seedlings, they do nothing with the crops, only sometimes they raise the glass to slightly ventilate, and if necessary, spray the soil with water. When mass seedlings appear, the glass must be removed, and the temperature should be lowered in some way: during the first week, it should be around 18 ° C during the day, and several degrees lower at night. Then the optimum temperature is about 24 ° C during the day and 18 ° C at night.

At the same time, the illumination of seedlings in the daytime should be as high as possible and uniform. With insufficient lighting, seedlings quickly stretch out, poorly absorb nutrients, and as a result, they simply can die. Therefore, with a lack sunlight it is necessary to provide additional lighting with fluorescent lamps or diode lamps.

Seedlings need space, when grown at home, the plants should not touch each other, so the cups must be rearranged periodically. The remaining stages in the care of seedlings are common, and they come down to watering and hardening before planting in the ground. Top dressing is required only if poor soil mixture.

Often, not only seedlings are grown on the windowsill, even small crops of cucumbers are obtained.

Watering can be carried out only with warm water (about 25 ° C). In no case should it be poured, the soil should always be slightly moist: excess water quickly leads to rotting of the root system. After watering, it is advisable to lightly pour dry, clean sand to the roots. Top dressing is needed only if something is clearly wrong with the seedlings: growth has stopped, the leaves have turned yellow or have begun to curl, etc. If pests are not found at the same time or the disease cannot be suspected, but climatic conditions everything is in order, most likely, the cucumbers did not have enough nutrition.

Usually it is enough to pour cucumbers with ash infusion or a mixture of trace elements (with boron content). And sometimes it's better to spend foliar top dressing: spraying the leaves with a weak solution of complex fertilizer (according to the instructions on the package). Only the solution must really be weak so as not to burn the leaf apparatus. After any type of top dressing, seedlings should be well watered, and the soil should be slightly mulched.

Advantages home growing seedlings consist in the fact that it is always in sight, it is easy to adjust the conditions. Disadvantages appear in case of insufficient lighting of the window sill, but this is fixable: you just need to correctly install additional lighting.

When there is not enough light, you have to equip the backlight: it is best to use special fitolamps

Growing seedlings in a greenhouse

When growing a dozen plants, there is nothing more convenient than a home window sill, but if you have to plant a large number of cucumbers, it makes sense to think about using a greenhouse. Especially if there is a modern polycarbonate greenhouse, in which it is easy to maintain the necessary temperature regime. In the event of a sudden drop in air temperature below the extreme limit, you can cover the seedlings inside the greenhouse nonwoven fabric, but usually it is not necessary to resort to this.

Of course, even in a greenhouse, seedlings need constant care, so greenhouse cultivation is only suitable for those gardeners who can visit their farm every day. If further cultivation of cucumbers is supposed to be in the greenhouse, the seeds are sown around April 20, and in mid-May cucumbers are planted in a permanent place. If the further habitat is open ground, then the timing of sowing seeds remains the same as in the conditions of the apartment.

Since a sufficient area can be allocated to seedlings in the greenhouse, you can do without seedling cups by sowing seeds on a small bed. But it is necessary to sow in such a way that the cucumbers grow freely, the roots of neighboring plants are not intertwined, and when transplanting, each specimen can be easily removed from the garden with big ball land without disturbing the root system.

When growing in a greenhouse, one should try to maintain the same temperature regime as at home: immediately after germination, lower the temperature somewhat, and then prevent it from dropping below 20 ° C during the day and 14 ° C at night. condensation on surfaces. In the phase of two true leaves, you can feed the cucumbers with a weak solution of fertilizers; in the greenhouse, no one bothers to use mullein infusion for this. Watering seedlings is desirable to carry out in the morning.

It makes sense to use a greenhouse when growing a large number of seedlings.

Growing seedlings in a greenhouse has advantages over apartment growing if it is possible to systematically visit the greenhouse: then the obvious advantages are the presence of large sown areas. The disadvantages of an unheated greenhouse can be affected by a sudden cold snap, when even covering with insulating material may not help. But such cases are rare.

Hardening seedlings and planting it in open ground

Seedlings of cucumbers in a temporary place live no more than a month. From this time, the first week she is kept at a low temperature, the second - in comfortable conditions, and then they begin to accustom them to the harsh life in the beds. Both at home and in the greenhouse, cucumbers are given “shakes” for a while, lowering the temperature or arranging small airings, but without serious drafts. For a week of transplanting to the garden, these activities should become more stringent.

In the conditions of an apartment, they first take out cups with seedlings for 15–20 minutes on the balcony, then gradually increase the time. Open windows or doors in the greenhouse. However, at the same time, at first, they try not to reduce the daytime temperature below 17 ° C. By planting on the garden, the seedlings should be in the fresh air for up to half the daytime.

Quality seedlings of cucumbers, ready for life in the garden, should have 4-5 strong large dark green leaves on a powerful but short main shoot. It’s very good if by this time she already has antennae and it’s very good if several buds have sprung up.

With flowering seedlings, there may be problems during transplantation, therefore, it is not worth bringing the matter further than before budding.

Before transplanting, the soil in the cups must be abundantly moistened. The seedlings carefully removed from the cups are planted after 30–40 cm. A more frequent arrangement is possible only for some varieties characterized by low growth force. It makes no sense to remind that the bed should be prepared long before planting and abundantly seasoned with fertilizers, primarily organic. In each hole dug with a scoop, it makes sense to add local fertilizers in the form of a glass wood ash, mixing them with the soil and watering well with warm water. Plants do not need to be deeply buried: it is optimal to plant cucumbers 2–3 cm deeper than they grew in cups.

Cucumber seedlings planted in a garden bed are well watered with warm water and mulched with a thin layer of humus or at least dry soil.

Variants of containers for sowing seeds for seedlings

As mentioned above, the use of common boxes for growing seedlings of cucumbers is excluded. The practice of making homemade containers from polyethylene film. If there are no special containers for seedlings, in a year you can accumulate a sufficient number of various plastic cups from products: sour cream, mayonnaise, cottage cheese, etc. But for cucumbers they should be of a solid size: the minimum is about 300 cm 3, and better for half a litre.

Sowing seeds in cups

I would like to warn against the use of flimsy cups, the material of which is very thin. It is advisable to use only those vessels that, when handled, almost do not change their shape, otherwise the roots of cucumbers will be easily injured when transferring seedlings from place to place and removing it during transplantation.

In any case, you need to have such containers that would allow you to easily and painlessly extract plants with a clod of earth from them. The most suitable are special cups or pots with a retractable bottom, which is pushed out of the cup along with the plant by pressing a finger.

One touch of a finger - and the bottom, along with the plant, slides out of the pot

There is an opinion that when planting seedlings, it makes no sense to get rid of the container, you can only deprive it of the bottom, and the root system of cucumbers will then begin to penetrate into the lower layers of the soil. The cup itself can be removed after harvesting. The opinion is very correct, if the cups are of sufficient width. Such a measure is extremely useful in the fight against a terrible pest - a bear. When the author of these lines had a plot on the shore of a pond and a bear could be dug up at any time as much as one's heart desires, one had to specially use protection, planting each plant (cucumber, tomato, cabbage, etc.) in tin can from under canned food with the removed bottom. It helped.

Sowing seeds in peat pots

Peat pots were incredibly popular 10-15 years ago, but now they are used a little less, because there is an opinion that their usefulness is greatly exaggerated. However, the convenience of the cups is undeniable: after all, seedlings do not need to be removed from them, they are buried together with the cup, and the roots easily penetrate through the walls. Therefore, it is recommended to use them mainly for plants that do not tolerate transplanting well; those are the cucumbers. Peat pots for seedlings come in different sizes.

For the manufacture of peat pots, peat and pressed cardboard are used; these materials decompose almost without residue in the garden in the summer. However different manufacturers produce pots with different wall thicknesses. Very thin ones are inconvenient because they are difficult to handle: they easily sag and even tear. Plant roots are not always able to penetrate through the thickest walls. For seedlings of cucumbers, pots with walls of medium thickness are needed; their size should also be average.

Pots for cucumber seedlings should not be too small

Some gardeners soak peat pots in fertilizer solutions before use. Frankly, such a procedure seems clearly redundant. But to choose a good strong box for them, where they will stand firmly, is a must. It is advisable to make several drain holes clearly in the bottom excess water. The water will also go through the walls, but it will take some time, and the walls will soak in vain. Soil is poured into pots, not reaching about 1 cm to the top.

Sowing seeds and caring for seedlings in pots do not have any significant features. Perhaps only watering is required a little more often than when using plastic containers. With the right choice of pots and their use, the number of their advantages, which were mentioned above, significantly exceeds the number of conditional disadvantages.

Use of peat tablets

Cucumber seedlings can be grown in peat tablets, choosing options for the most big size. Peat tablets are very convenient to use when growing seedlings. various plants. They are made from pressed peat with the addition of microfertilizers, so top dressing is usually not needed. Before use, the tablets are placed in any convenient waterproof box and filled with water until completely swollen. On one side of the tablet, a small indentation is made for laying out the seeds.

One seed is introduced into the recesses, after which they are buried with a stick or a toothpick in peat to a depth of about 1 cm. Seedlings are watered from below: water poured into the bottom of the box is itself absorbed into the peat in the required dose. If the tablet is correctly sized, all seedling care consists of periodic watering and temperature monitoring. Plant seedlings in a garden bed along with a tablet, just like peat pots.

Peat water tablets swell up a lot and turn into excellent containers for seedlings.

The use of peat tablets is extremely convenient, there is only one drawback: a decent cost. But if you need to grow only a dozen copies of cucumber seedlings, you should not think about the shortcomings: the advantages of the tablets will more than cover them.

Video: cucumber seedlings in peat tablets

Use of eggshell

The inventive mind of a Russian person comes up with a variety of options for growing seedlings: plastic bottles, toilet paper, cells for eggs, etc. Some gardeners grow seedlings of cucumbers in eggshells. They do it like this:

1. Gently clean boiled egg to leave most of the shell intact.
2. Pierce in the whole end face with a needle 1-2 holes for drainage.
3. Soil is put into the shell.
4. Install the shell in the cell.
5. Moisten the soil by spraying.
6. The seed is planted at a shallow depth.
7. Spray again.

Care for seedlings in the shell is no different from care in cups. It is planted in the garden along with the shell, crushing the trace so that the roots can more easily reach the soil. The advantages of such a container seem rather dubious and, perhaps, consist only in saving money and in the fact that the shell serves as fertilizer. A clear disadvantage is the size of such a “container”: it is difficult for cucumber seedlings to grow to a marketable condition in it.

It is convenient to use the shell, only it is too small for a cucumber

Video: growing seedlings in eggshells

Subject to all the rules for preparing for sowing and correct agricultural practices, cucumber seedlings grow strong and do not cause big problems for the gardener. But if something was done with the marriage, options are possible, sometimes ending in the complete death of the seedlings.

What to do if the seedlings are stretched

During the cultivation of seedlings, it is necessary to clearly withstand the temperature, light and humidity conditions. Pulling out seedlings almost certainly indicates that the temperature was exceeded, there was not enough light, and watering was not carried out according to the rules. The temperature after the appearance of the first shoots must be necessarily reduced, and the illumination increased.

Sometimes all you need to do to increase the light is to clean the windows!

Cucumbers should not be sown too early when daylight hours are short: these are unnecessary problems that are not worth the time and effort spent on solving them.

In healthy seedlings, the distance from the soil to the cotyledon leaves a week after germination should not be more than 5 cm. It is difficult to save clearly elongated seedlings, it is better to repeat the sowing. If the problem has not gone deep, you can try to increase the light and lower the temperature, and add some clean soil to the roots.

It is unlikely that such seedlings can be saved.

At an older age, stretching is rare and only due to lack of space: growing seedlings must be periodically moved away from each other. Sometimes an excess of nitrogen in the soil is also to blame for pulling seedlings.

What to do if the seedlings turn yellow

Yellowing leaves can signal various problems, up to a serious illness. But in the case of seedlings, this rarely happens: it is unlikely that she a short time managed to pick up sores somewhere. Most often this happens due to poorly prepared soil, which lacks nitrogen fertilizers. In this case, watering with a solution of urea and lightly spraying it on the leaves can save the plants. But yellowness can appear not only from a lack of nitrogen, but from an incorrect overall balance. nutrients in the soil. Here, without a competent analysis, nothing can be done, it is better to take a new high-quality soil and, if not too late, repeat the sowing.

The leaves can also turn yellow from too low temperatures: you should check if the plants are cold, especially at night. The lack of light can also affect the color of the leaves, but at the same time, first of all, the seedlings begin to stretch. But it's too bright spring sun it may, on the contrary, burn part of the foliage, and this must also be monitored. Other causes of yellowing of the leaves are as diverse as they are rare, they are the topic of a separate, very detailed conversation.

What to do if pests appear

The main pests of cucumbers are: melon aphid, ants, gall nematodes, whiteflies, spider mites and others, the list is very wide, but at the seedling stage, most of them cannot harm plants, especially at home. Pests can only get with the soil, but with proper preparation this is impossible.

In particular, miniature springtail worms, which are six-legged creatures several millimeters long, can get into the soil. They eat small roots of seedlings, the risk increases with waterlogging. If they really wound up, you can try preparations for soil pests, for example, Thunder-2, or universal insecticides(Aktar).

The root-knot nematodes look similar (if without a microscope). With a mild invasion, the same measures can help.

Juicy and fleshy tomatoes can be grown at home. But you need to make a lot of effort, and start with seedlings:

Features of cultivation in different regions

The general principles of growing cucumber seedlings do not depend on the region, only the timing of sowing seeds and the subsequent planting of seedlings in the garden differ: planting is possible when the soil reaches a temperature of 18 ° C. In the southern regions, sowing seeds is possible in the very first days of April, and in the northern regions - only in May. In most regions of the country, seeds are sown at the end of April. For greenhouse cultivation cucumbers, the dates are shifted 1-2 weeks earlier.

IN Leningrad region, Karelia and nearby areas, the cultivation of cucumbers outside of greenhouses is rarely discussed at all. Therefore, the time of sowing seeds depends on the quality of the greenhouse: after all, in a heated greenhouse, this can be done at any time of the year. But ordinary summer residents transplant seedlings into unheated greenhouses only at the end of May, which means that seeds are sown shortly before the May holidays. The situation is similar in most regions of Siberia and the Urals.

If we talk about the Kuban or the Astrakhan region, then for the consumption of cucumbers at the usual time there is no point in growing seedlings here. And for early harvests in open ground, sowing seeds in greenhouses can be started at the end of March, and for greenhouse cultivation - already in February.

Video: growing seedlings of cucumbers in the Leningrad region

Cultivation of seedlings of cucumbers is practiced if desired early harvests, but for normal consumption in the middle of summer in most of our country, you can safely sow the seeds directly in the garden. The process of preparing seedlings is simple and accessible to any gardener who has minimal experience in working with the ground.

It seems that we recently discussed, and now it is time to sow cucumbers. The opinions of gardeners differ here: someone prefers to grow seedlings at home and only then transplant cucumbers into a greenhouse, while others prefer to sow seeds in a greenhouse or greenhouse right away. We tell you when to plant seedlings of cucumbers, how to create good conditions for it in a greenhouse or make a greenhouse with your own hands.

Cucumber seedlings: to plant or not?

There is no point in growing cucumbers through seedlings at home. The gain is only 7-10 days, and you won’t end up with trouble, because the pumpkin has a weak and poorly regenerating root system. Sucking hairs break off even when loosening the soil, and not just when they are transplanted.

A transplant for pumpkin is a big one, since the broken sucking hairs on the old root are not restored. First, a new root should grow, and then it will grow hairy and start pumping the soil solution into the leaves. During this time (about a week), part of the leaves will die, the plant will weaken and take root poorly in a new place.

In general, you will lose about 10 days on this operation. During this time, the seeds sown in the ground will have time to sprout and immediately move to growth. They are much stronger and more enduring, as they immediately grew on the spot, rather than sissies grown in room conditions.

But if you really want to eat cucumbers and zucchini a week before all the neighbors, then transplant them to the greenhouse at the age of 25 days, when they have only one true leaf. Then the root system of a cucumber or zucchini has just begun to form, so that it will endure the transplant with minimal losses. And best of all, cucumbers and all pumpkin crops tolerate transplantation in general with cotyledon leaves.

In order for the root system to experience minimal stress, pumpkin seedlings should be grown in containers without a bottom. The easiest way to do this is to roll up cylinders from a newspaper wrapped in several layers around the bottle, fill them with soil and put on elastic bands so that they do not fall apart, or cut off the bottom and top of plastic 300-gram yogurt bottles.

When transplanting newspaper cylinders, you don’t need to unfold them (just remove the gum), the roots will easily sprout through the soaked walls (do not be afraid, their strength is enough for 25 days while you grow seedlings). Plastic cups must be carefully pulled down from the seedlings and planted, holding a clod of earth from below with a hand.

Carefully compress the planted seedlings of cucumbers with soil, just as carefully pour warm water and cover directly over the leaves with two layers of lutrasil. But if you have slugs, then it is better to immediately cover the planted plants with screwed 5-6-liter water bottles with a cut bottom. So that the slugs do not crawl inside, poke the bottom of the bottles from the sides, and cover them with lutrasil on top.

Do cucumber seeds need to be preheated? If you are growing hybrids (these packages are labeled F1), then don't, because they have a predominantly female flowering type. If you are growing varieties, and at the same time your seeds are fresh, then warming up is recommended to stimulate the rapid appearance of female flowers, since varieties on the main stem mainly grow male flowers. This is done as follows: before planting, warm the seeds in a thermos with hot (53 degrees) water for 15-20 minutes - at the same time, free the seeds from pathogens of bacteriosis and anthracnose.

Cucumbers in a greenhouse. How to sow the seeds correctly?

Since I don’t like any unnecessary work on the site, I sow dry cucumber seeds right in the greenhouse near St. Petersburg. I usually stick 2-3 seeds into one nest at a distance of about 4 cm from each other, with an edge into the soil and immediately cover the soil first with a film, and then on top with two layers of lutrasil.

Before planting, trenches should be dug to the depth and width of a shovel bayonet, dry hay or leaves, or unrotted compost should be added to them. Return the soil removed from the trench to the hay, put a board on top and walk along it to compact the ground. Water the soil well and cover with a black film to warm the earth. After a week, the soil will warm up, the hay will begin to rot and release heat. You can plant cucumbers.

Usually I do sowing in early May on such insulated soil and, as always, I spill the soil before sowing hot water. Shoots usually appear in seven days. After that, I remove the film so that the seedlings do not burn out under it under the strong sun, and leave the double lutrasil lying directly on the seedlings. With such a shelter, cucumbers in a greenhouse withstand frosts outside to minus 5-6 degrees.

When 1-2 true leaves appear on the cucumbers, I carefully plant the extra ones from each nest and usually distribute them to my neighbors. The fact is that the current seeds have a disgusting germination, and therefore often one plant sprouts from 2-3 sown.

Where is it better to grow cucumbers: a greenhouse or a greenhouse?

If you have a high greenhouse, then the air in it is very cool at night, because the heat from the soil heated during the day rises and it is not enough to heat such a large volume of air. Cucumbers do not like night cooling, besides greens grow at night, so on cool nights you need to turn on heating: it can be electric or kerosene lamps, tape heaters and other devices.

Therefore, in regions with cold summers, it is better to grow cucumbers not in high greenhouses on a vertical trellis, but in a horizontal position in small greenhouses, because warm air, rising from the soil at night, may well retain heat in a small volume.

In particular, in the North-West, cucumbers are not grown in the open field, they have to be grown on covering soil, that is, the ridges with cucumbers are covered at night and opened during the day. This is convenient to do if you install arcs, metal or wicker, over the beds with cucumbers. From the cut rods, you must immediately remove the bark (at this time it is removed very easily), bend the rods in arcs, sticking them into the soil. Such willow arches last 5-6 years, if they are taken out of the soil for the winter, tied in bunches and kept under a roof so that they do not get wet.

Cucumbers love moist soil, but that doesn't mean they should be over-watered. The soil should be constantly moderately moist, but not turn into slush. This can be achieved, for example, by organizing drip irrigation using hoses with holes.

How to form cucumbers in a greenhouse: hybrids and varieties

If you are growing cucumbers on a vertical trellis in a tall greenhouse, you need to tie them up. Tie a cord under the first true leaf in a loose loop and, wrapping the stem counterclockwise with the cord, pass it under each leaf. Stretch the cord and tie it with a bow to a horizontal wire stretched 1.5 meters above the ground. Further, if the cucumbers themselves do not cling to the cord, wrap the cord around the stem yourself.

When the cucumbers grow to the horizontal wire, throw them over the wire and make them grow down, which will have to tie the growing end of the stem to its own lower part.

If you grow cucumbers vertically, then their formation comes down to the fact that you need to blind (pluck out what grows from the leaf axil) 3-4 bottom sheet. This is done so that the lowest lashes do not grow - they take all the nutrients first, but almost do not bear fruit due to lack of light. In addition, they thicken the lower part of the plants and due to poor ventilation, stem rot often begins precisely in the lower part of the plants.

Then, as the cucumbers grow, it is necessary to pinch the side shoots, cutting off the end of the shoot as soon as 2 leaves form on it. Then the thickening of the greenhouse will not work, all plants will have good access to light and air. If this is not done, a continuous jungle of stems and leaves will form, among which only cucumbers will peep through in some places. With thickening of plantings, the yield of cucumbers drops sharply.

As soon as you throw the cucumber stems over the horizontal trellis (wire), stop pinching the side shoots. Their ends will branch out, and on these branches fruiting will be in clusters, that is, several cucumbers from one place.

Now varieties and hybrids of single-stalked cucumbers have been created, which either have no side shoots at all, or they are greatly shortened. Naturally, such cucumbers do not require any formation. Their growth is usually limited - they end in a flower or a bunch of flowers. Their crop is formed only on the main stem, so their yield is lower, but they can be planted thicker, up to 10 plants per square meter, so the total yield from the greenhouse area is the same.

If you grow cucumbers in a greenhouse in a horizontal position, then they do not need to be formed either.

Do I need to pinch cucumbers after the 4th leaf? If these are hybrids (they are labeled F1), then it is not necessary, because they immediately have female flowers on the main stem, which have a small cucumber.
If this is a variety, then on the main stem it has mainly male flowers. Female flowers, as a rule, are formed on lateral shoots.
To speed up the emergence of side shoots with female flowers, cut off the crown with the upper point of growth, and then the kidney closest to the point of growth gives a lateral shoot. This first lateral shoot will later replace the broken central stem. It is usually recommended to cut off the crown (pinch) over the 4th leaf of the main stem.

Discussion

I don’t know what kind of stress there is during a transplant ... If the hands grow from where they should, no stress. I always transplant cucumbers and zucchini, as a rule, without problems.

Comment on the article "Growing cucumbers: when to sow seedlings for a greenhouse and greenhouse"

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Growing cucumbers in seedlings makes it possible for the gardener to get not only an early, but also a plentiful harvest. When planting seedlings, weak specimens are culled and only the strongest remain. healthy plants, which quickly adapt to greenhouse conditions and begin to bear fruit earlier. Most importantly, do not miss the moment and sow the seeds for seedlings in a timely manner. How to determine optimal timing sowing and avoid mistakes when growing seedlings?

For normal development, cucumbers require, first of all, warmth. If seedlings are planted in unheated soil, they will stop growing, take root for a long time, and you will get a very mediocre harvest. And if you overexpose the seedlings in cups, the result is even worse - the plants will stretch and weaken even before planting. With late sowing, you will get the first fruits when the cucumber market is already full. That is why it is so important to learn how to independently determine the sowing dates for your climate zone.

For the root system of cucumbers, the optimum soil temperature is 15-20 degrees. In an unheated greenhouse, the earth warms up to this temperature around mid-April in the south of the country and three weeks later in the Central Strip. For the northwestern regions, the dates for planting seedlings in the greenhouse fall at the end of May. At the same time, weather conditions must be taken into account: if the spring is late, with snow and frost, then the greenhouse warms up longer.

The age of seedlings at planting should not exceed three weeks. As practice shows, seedlings take root best at the age of 14-20 days. It takes 2-3 days for seeds to germinate, another 3 days for germination. Now, in order to calculate the sowing time, it is necessary to approximately determine the date of planting the plants in the greenhouse (taking into account your region and weather conditions), and then count back 20 days (14 + 3 + 3).

Example: the greenhouse is located in the Middle lane, the expected date for planting cucumbers is May 10. We count back 14 days for growing seedlings, 3 days for seedlings and 3 days for processing and germinating seeds. Turns out April 20th.

Growing cucumber seedlings has its own secrets, without which it will not be possible to achieve maximum yields. There is nothing complicated here, and any novice gardener will be able to apply the knowledge gained on his site.

Seed preparation

For the greenhouse, you should choose parthenocarpic varieties of cucumbers that do not need pollination by insects. Seeds remain viable for 6-8 years, but three-year-olds are best suited for sowing. Plants from such seeds have the largest number of female flowers, from which the ovaries develop. This applies to seed that you collected yourself. As a rule, when harvesting, a lot of substandard seeds come across, and therefore it is necessary to cull before sowing.

First, seeds with defects and too small are selected from the total mass. Then prepare a strong salt solution (a teaspoon per glass of water) and pour the rest there. After a few seconds, all the empty ones will float to the top, and those suitable for sowing will sink to the bottom of the glass.

The higher the temperature, the faster the sprouts appear, but you should not overheat them too much. At 30 degrees, the seeds hatch in a day, at 20-25 ° C, this takes no more than three days, and if the temperature is below 15 ° C, the seeds may rot. Germination only accelerates the emergence of seedlings and does not affect the fruiting of cucumbers, so you can do without it. In this case, there is only one minus - individual seeds may not sprout. To exclude this possibility, you need to sow 2-3 seeds in each cup, and then just cut off the extra sprouts, leaving the strongest one.

Advice! Seeds from reputable agricultural companies are sold already calibrated and coated protective compounds, and therefore they do not need to be disinfected or soaked so as not to wash off the thin layer of antimicrobial drugs. The same applies to granulated seeds, which are additionally covered with a layer of nutrients that promote the rooting of sprouts.

Sowing for seedlings

Cucumbers do not respond well to transplantation, and the seeds are immediately sown in individual cups with a volume of about 300 g.

The soil for seedlings should have the same composition as the greenhouse, which allows plants to quickly adapt to new conditions after planting in the greenhouse. As a rule, this sod land and humus in equal parts. For looseness of the soil, steamed small sawdust is added (10-15% of the total mass of the substrate). It is very important that the soil is neutral, because sour cucumbers develop poorly and almost do not bear fruit.

Step 1. Take pots for seedlings and make holes in each of them for water to drain. Then the containers are filled with a soil substrate, leaving a rim with a height of at least 2 cm. This will allow you to pour the earth if necessary.

Step 2 The seeds are alternately laid out in pots and sprinkled with earth by 1.5-2 cm. Water with warm water and cover the container with a film.

Step 3 For convenience, all pots can be placed in a wide and shallow pan and placed in a warm place. Optimum temperature during this period - about 22 degrees.

Under such conditions, sprouts appear on about the third day. If the seeds were sown not germinated, but dry, you will have to wait about a week for germination. Be sure to monitor the humidity of the substrate, moisten it if necessary. When sprouts appear, the film is removed from the pots and the seedlings are moved to the windowsill from the south or west side. The window should be slightly shaded so that direct rays do not fall on delicate leaves.

Seedling care rules

Seedlings need to be provided proper watering, temperature and lighting. Watering should be done so that water does not fall on the leaves, especially in evening time. If the air in the room is too dry, periodically the plants need to be sprayed with water. room temperature, necessarily settled (ideally rain or melt). Spraying is carried out only in the morning, so that the moisture has time to evaporate by the evening. Water moderately, every 3-4 days.

At this time, seedlings are very prone to "black leg". Even a short overheating or hypothermia of seedlings, combined with excessive moisture, can provoke its appearance. At the first signs of the disease, the affected plant must be removed along with the container, since it will no longer be possible to save it, and all other sprouts should be immediately treated with a fungicide.

The temperature at this time should be no higher than 20 degrees to avoid pulling seedlings. During severe frosts, it is better to remove the plants from the window, as it becomes colder on the windowsill. You should also avoid sudden temperature changes and drafts. A week before planting, the temperature should be reduced by a couple of degrees to prepare the seedlings for new conditions.

If there is not enough space on the windowsill, or the window is not well lit, the seedlings need to organize the backlight. You can use ordinary fluorescent lamps or special phytolamps for seedlings. In cloudy weather, the lamps should be turned on all day; in sunny weather, it is enough to illuminate the plants for 2-3 hours in the morning and the same amount in the evening. As the seedlings grow, the distance between the cups is gradually increased, otherwise the plants will shade each other with leaves.

Advice! If, despite all efforts, the seedlings began to stretch, it is necessary to lower the temperature to 15 degrees and leave the lamps on around the clock.

With such care, seedlings are practically not affected by diseases and quickly grow. If the plants have short strong stems, at least two or three true leaves and a rich green color- they are ready to land in the greenhouse.

Planting cucumbers in a greenhouse

Before planting, the soil in the greenhouse is loosened and leveled. Holes are prepared: they mark rows for cucumbers and, according to the marking, make indentations in the soil at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other. Wire trellises are pulled over the rows, so that later it will be convenient to tie up the stems of plants. If seedlings of bush varieties, trellises are not needed, and the distance between holes in a row can be reduced to 20-25 cm.

Starting planting, water the wells with a weak solution of potassium permanganate (0.5 liters per well), and then with clean warm water. The glass is carefully cut on one side, the plant is taken out very carefully so as not to catch the roots, and lowered into the hole. The earth ball should rise above the soil surface by about a couple of centimeters. Then pour the earth on the sides, compact with your hands, water again. When the water is absorbed, the soil around the plant is sprinkled with dry earth - this will reduce the evaporation of moisture and prevent the formation of a hard crust.

Elongated seedlings are planted a little differently. A prerequisite is well warmed and loose soil. Plants are taken out of pots and buried in the ground to the cotyledon leaves. After planting, it is not necessary to water the seedlings, since waterlogging can cause rotting of the weakened root system. If individual seedlings had time to bloom even before planting in the greenhouse, you need to remove all the flowers and unopened buds. Such plants begin to bear fruit a little later, but quickly catch up with the rest of the bushes and are not inferior to them in terms of yield.

Plants take 5-7 days to adapt. After that, you can form bushes and tie the shoots to the trellis. As a rule, greenhouse cucumbers are formed into one stem - it is easier to take care of them, and the plants get more light. Now it remains only to regularly water the bushes, periodically feed them and wait for the harvest.

Video - When to sow cucumbers for seedlings for a greenhouse

Video - Planting cucumber seedlings in a greenhouse

Growing crispy and fragrant cucumbers at home is easy. The rules for cultivating this vegetable are simple. The main thing is to plant seeds for seedlings in time and transfer the plants to open ground, a greenhouse without picking. Only 4-5 bushes of a productive variety will provide the whole family with fresh cucumbers. Growing seedlings of cucumbers at home with photos, videos are described in detail in the article.

How to grow cucumber seedlings at home?

No one doubts the benefits of cucumbers for human health. It is well known that 90% of a vegetable consists of water, and the remaining 10% - useful material. Cucumber is a storehouse of vitamins and minerals. According to nutritionists, it can be eaten in almost unlimited quantities. True, this applies only to those cucumbers that are grown at home and do not contain harmful chemicals.

It is worth planting seeds in one of auspicious days, on the growing moon. In this case, according to gardeners, the seedlings will grow strong, and the harvest will be rich. Great importance it also has which variety of cucumbers to choose for planting seedlings. If the plants are planned to be grown in a greenhouse, then it is worth giving preference. If the seedlings are transferred to open ground, any will do.

For growing strong and healthy seedlings, it is recommended to adhere to the following sequence of work:

1. Check seed quality. To do this, they are placed in a prepared saline solution. Floated seeds are unsuitable for planting and are discarded, and those that have sunk to the bottom of the water container are collected.
2. Carry out disinfection. According to summer residents, most viruses, bacteria and fungi are brought to the site with infected seeds. A pink solution of potassium permanganate, in which the seed is kept for about 20 minutes, can destroy the entire infection. This is a proven method. Recently, however, the preparation “Fitosporin” has been increasingly used for preplant seed treatment. After disinfection, the seeds are washed in running water.
3. At the next stage, the seeds are placed for germination in a damp cloth or cotton wool for 2-3 days. After the sprouts appear, they can be planted.

In what soil is it better to grow seedlings of cucumbers?

In poor and dense soil, any plant does not grow well. Before sowing cucumber seeds, the soil must be properly prepared. What measures need to be taken to make the soil ideal for seedlings? We suggest doing the following:

• purchase turf soil in the store or bring compost soil from the dacha, as well as vermiculite, sand, peat, sawdust, manure;
• mix all the ingredients in this ratio - 4 parts of soil and peat, 1 part of sand, sawdust, manure;
• disinfect the soil with the help of the “phytosporin” preparation according to the instructions on the package;
• leave the soil under the film for 15 days for the formation of noble microflora in it.

Cucumber seedlings grow well in loose, breathable, fertilized and moist soil. To improve air exchange, drainage must be laid at the bottom of the container with seedlings, for example, a piece of foam, vermiculite, expanded clay, brick. When the soil is prepared properly, the result is guaranteed to please the gardener.

Growing crispy and fragrant cucumbers at home is not difficult, because the rules for cultivating this vegetable are simple.

Sowing cucumber seeds for seedlings at home X

Germinated seeds are planted in moist and warm soil. For planting, it is recommended to use individual containers. Disposable cups will do. This method of planting seeds allows you to grow cucumber seedlings without picking. When transplanting, tender roots are often damaged and plants begin to hurt, which is highly undesirable.

Plant 2 seeds in one pot. So the summer resident will have the choice to remove the weak plant after germination. Seeds after sowing are sprinkled with soil, which is moistened with a spray bottle. The glass should be covered with a transparent film to organize a micro-greenhouse.

To prevent the plant from stretching, it must be placed on a well-lit windowsill, preferably on the south side. In the future, the summer resident is required to regularly moisten the plantations and provide them with 12-14 hour daylight hours.

Seedlings should be protected from drafts. However, immediately before it is tempered. To do this, cucumbers, 2 weeks before planting in a permanent place of growth, are taken out to the loggia, a glazed balcony, first for several hours. Gradually increase the length of stay.

Growing seedlings of cucumbers at home, video:

Everyone can start growing cucumber seedlings, even if there is no experience in agricultural business. This is an interesting and rewarding activity, because a generous harvest of cucumbers is guaranteed. Tips and reviews from experienced summer residents will help you avoid mistakes when growing cucumber seedlings at home.

Most of the regions in our country cannot boast of their climate, in which you can safely grow cucumbers in the beds in the open field.

But they grow well in greenhouses.

Variety selection

In order for the cultivation of seedlings of cucumbers for the greenhouse to be successful, it is necessary to choose the right variety. But not everyone knows what points to pay attention to. Special attention when choosing a variety.

Experienced gardeners pay special attention to the following factors:

1. seasonal destination;
2. type of branching (weak, limited, medium, good or excessive);
3. the location of the ovaries, (single or bundled);
4. fruit size;
5. the appearance of the fetus (smooth-fruited, small-tuberous and large-tuberous);
6. taste qualities.

Important. Cucumbers that grow outdoors are successfully pollinated by insects.
But growing seedlings of cucumbers in a greenhouse suggests that this process will have to be done by hand, doing quite laborious work every day.

To alleviate the fate of the gardener, breeders have bred hybrid self-pollinated varieties specifically for greenhouses. Here they are desirable. The price of seeds is practically the same, and the result will be spectacular.

For a good harvest of this vegetable crop at an early date, it is recommended to select seeds shade-tolerant plants that do not need pollination, for example:

1. Moscow greenhouse;
2. Lada;
3. Malachite;
4. Stella;
5. Dinzoshi;
6. Biryusa.

When grown in greenhouses excellent results give out well-known varieties that have fruiting extended in time, from early spring to autumn:

1. Altai early 166;
2. Elegant;
3. VIR 516;
4. Irresistible 40;
5. Zozulya;
6. April;
7. Cucaracha.

Sowing

In central Russia, ready-made seedlings are planted in film greenhouses around the beginning of May. By region, this date may fluctuate in different directions.

Accordingly, thinking about the question of when to plant cucumbers for seedlings for a greenhouse, you should find out about the seasonal planting dates for film in your region and start preparing a month before this date.

Soil preparation

An important step is the preparation of the soil for seed germination. Naturally, this is their "food". You can use ready-made mixtures, of which there are many on sale today, for example, Living Earth. And you can prepare the mixture with your own hands.

For one bucket you need to take:

1. peat - 1 part;
2. old sawdust 1 part;
3. sod land - 1 part;
4. humus - 1 part;
5. ash - 2 tablespoons.

Ready, well-mixed, the mixture is poured into pots or other containers, then spilled with warm water, to which liquid fertilizer, for example, "Ideal".

Seed preparation

Seeds must first be prepared, to determine which of them are good and there is hope of getting a good result from them.

Preparation for planting cucumber seeds consists of three stages:

1. rejection, the seeds are dipped in a five percent salt solution at room temperature, mixed and waited for 15 seconds, then the floating ones are rejected;
2. disinfection, the seeds are dipped in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for half an hour, then washed well with running water;
3. germination, for two to three days it is necessary to hold the seeds at a temperature of 25–30 ° C in a damp gauze piece of cloth, they should germinate there.

Important. Cucumbers are very bad at transplanting, so it is advisable to sow them directly into pots one seed at a time.
The ideal option is biological containers, which do not need to be disposed of when planting seedlings in a permanent place.

Container Ideas

As containers for seedlings, you can use paper and plastic cups, pots, but not only. Now released peat tablets for seedlings, which are very convenient and contain enough useful substances.

You can also use the original biological container, which is the eggshell.

Instructions for planting seeds in an eggshell:

1. we take an empty shell from an egg, if we take a shell from raw egg, then it is necessary to rinse it thoroughly, especially from the outside;
2. we make a needle in the lower whole part of the shell drainage hole, maybe a couple;
3. with a teaspoon we fill the shell with soil prepared for seed germination;
4. gently moisten the soil with a spray gun;
5. we plant a seed, slightly sprinkling it with earth.

With this method of cultivation, planting seedlings of cucumbers in a greenhouse occurs directly with the shell, which is actually an additional top dressing. It is only necessary to crush it a little, squeezing it in your hand, providing the roots with free access to the soil.

seedling care

Before germination, the pots are covered with foil or glass, it is desirable to maintain the temperature up to 28 degrees. When shoots appear, the temperature is reduced to 20 degrees.

Try to think over additional lighting for the seedlings, then it will not stretch unnecessarily. During the time you are growing the seedlings, it is advisable to pour fresh soil into the pots a couple of times.

Watering

For cucumber seedlings, watering is very important, it is of great importance for the growth of the plant. The soil in the containers should be kept moist, but don't water too much, as overwatering can kill the plants.

Seedlings can be watered only with warm water, with a temperature not lower than room temperature. It is strictly forbidden to use cold water for irrigation. When applied cold water the roots of the plant may die.

top dressing

When deciding how to grow good quality cucumber seedlings for a greenhouse, do not forget to feed them. Plants are fed with complex fertilizers specially designed for seedlings of cucumbers approximately three times a month.

Approximate feeding times:

1. in phase 1-2 true sheets;
2. in the phase of 3-4 seedling leaves;
3. in the 5-6 leaf phase before planting in the greenhouse.

Landing in a greenhouse

Planting seedlings of cucumbers in a greenhouse begins when the seedlings are 25-30 days old and have 4-5 leaves. Landing is carried out vertically, filling the pot with soil. They arrange it in a checkerboard pattern so that the distance between the cucumbers in the greenhouse is at least 0.5 m.

Advice. If the cucumber seedlings turned out to be weak, then before planting it in a permanent place, it is necessary to fertilize with mineral fertilizer.
For a bucket of water, you need to take forty grams of superphosphate, twelve grams of ammonium nitrate, ten grams of potassium chloride and mix everything.

When deciding when to sow cucumbers for seedlings for a greenhouse, it must be remembered that about a month should pass before planting in a permanent place. If we sow the seeds in April, then in May the seedlings will go to the greenhouse. This is the most common option among summer residents and gardeners.

Those for whom growing cucumber seedlings in a greenhouse is a way of doing business, adhere to more early dates, but they also have heated greenhouses.

Consider when to plant seedlings of cucumbers in a greenhouse:

1. in usually planted during February;
2. in seasonal greenhouses with technical heating, planting can be carried out from April 1 to April 5;
3. in the same greenhouses, but without the possibility of applying technical heating, seedlings can be planted in the third decade of April or in May.

Further care for seedlings of cucumbers in a greenhouse comes down to the correct formation of a bush, proper feeding and timely watering. Varieties that are intended for growing in greenhouses are formed in the same way. This is done to get a good harvest.

When the stem, having reached the trellis, outgrows it by 30 cm, it is necessary to pinch the crown. The lower two or three shoots are also pinched and do not allow flowers to form there. Above, in the next 5 shoots, lateral stems are pinched over each first leaf; higher, you can already pinch over the second and third leaves.

The soil in the greenhouse should always be sufficiently moist, but not waterlogged. Don't forget to add soil if the roots begin to wash out to the surface.

Regular feeding of cucumber seedlings in a greenhouse is carried out with liquid complex fertilizers of a complex type with the main nutrients:

1. nitrogen;
2. phosphorus;
3. potassium.

The cucumber crop is harvested in the morning, not forgetting to remove all diseased ovaries.

Important. For getting high yield cucumbers in a greenhouse, remember that you should not allow the fruits to outgrow.
One such overgrowth can stop the development of fruits on the whole plant.
This is due to the fact that seeds are poured in this overgrown cucumber, so they draw all the nutrients onto themselves, preventing the rest from developing.

Summary

To get a good crop of cucumbers in a greenhouse, you must follow all the rules for growing seedlings. Only from a good seed can you get good harvest, but subject to the watering regime, the feeding regime and the correct formation of the bush. In the presented video in this article you will find Additional information on this topic.