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Installing hl. Drywall on walls without a frame - simple installation, excellent results. Assembling a wall from plasterboard

We will look at how to install drywall with your own hands on the walls. Specifically, we will analyze how to mark and correctly place drywall sheets on the wall, how to correctly install the profile under the drywall and how to fix the drywall to the profile. We will also give an example of the consumption of drywall on a wall of 3x4.5 meters.

Marking the location of drywall sheets

In this article, we will consider the most difficult situation of installing drywall on walls - when there is an opening (window) in the wall. The basic principles of installing drywall on a solid wall are the same as when installing on a wall with an opening.

Now consider the main points when marking the location of sheets on the wall.

1. Opening in the wall. The basic rule for the location of sheets on the wall is as follows: if the wall has a door and / or window opening, then the joints of the sheets should be at least 200-300 mm away from all corners of this opening. Otherwise, you will get a crack in the finished surface.

The red dotted line indicates how to divide the sheets it is forbidden!

The location of the sheets on the wall with an opening

That is, the layout of the sheets begins precisely from the openings. At the same time, it is desirable that a whole sheet starts from some corner of the wall: then there will be less trimming.

2. If a narrow band remains.

If the length of the wall is such that a narrow strip remains

It is also better to take into account that it is better not to leave a strip narrower than 100 mm: you can get rid of it by moving all the sheets from this strip so that the strip becomes at least 300-400 mm. 300-400 mm is the distance of the rack from the adjacent wall at which you can normally work with a screwdriver.

Way out:

By rearranging sheets 3 and 4 in places, and cutting sheet 1, everything falls into place

We cut sheet 1 so that sheet 4 becomes a little wider -300-400mm. And sheets 3 and 4 are interchanged in order to fulfill the first rule.

3. If the sheet height less height walls, and you have to add another part in height, then the sheets must be placed apart. Simply put: if there is a horizontal joint, then it should not go into adjacent sheets. "Vrazbezhka" should be at least 0.4 m.

The location of the sheets if the height of the wall is more than three meters

Marking the location of profiles

Now that we have decided where and how the sheets will be located, we can accurately mark the location of the racks and other frame elements.

CD racks should be located in increments of 1200 mm, but not less than 600 mm. Most often, 600 mm is enough for wall cladding. Racks are profiles, which are called "strings" because of the C-shaped section.

CD profile

The guide profiles for CD are UD due to the U shaped section. It is placed along the perimeter of the wall to be sewn.

UD profile

So, an example of the location of profiles for a wall with a window, if the height of the room is greater than the height of the drywall sheets.

The location of the frame elements for the wall

We place the racks under the vertical and horizontal joints of drywall (red). We also add 2 racks: 1 and 5 along the edge of the opening and a jumper above the window - 6. On sheets 2 and 3, two intermediate racks each (1 and 2 on sheet 2; 4 and 5 on sheet 3): from behind the window we shift the central under the edge of the opening (1 and 5), and so that the pitch of the racks is not more than 600 mm, we add one more (2 and 4) in the middle of these large spans. Along the perimeter of the wall and under the window, we install UD guides (blue).

Note: If the length of the sheet is greater than or equal to the height of the room, that is, the sheet closes the wall in height, then there is no need for horizontal jumpers.

It is also necessary to provide a support for fixing the UD of future adjacent planes: if you plan to sew up the wall next to it, or mount a drywall box, then put an additional rack under the GC along this line.

Additional CD will simplify the installation of the frame of the adjacent wall

When the UD is attached through drywall to the CD, it is strong, good angle. If you will sheathe the ceiling, then it is advisable to additionally make horizontal jumpers at the level of the future ceiling.

Fixing the perimeter of the frame on the floor, walls and ceiling

Plane marking

When we have decided on the location of the sheets and profiles on the wall, we need to mark the plane in which the drywall will be located. The minimum thickness of the entire structure on the profiles is 35 mm + 12 mm (GKL) = 47 mm. The maximum thickness that the U-shaped bracket (P-shka) allows us is 110 mm.

U - shaped bracket, or simply "P-shka"

In general, we need all the markings and stretched laces for profiles (not for the front surface of the Civil Code), since we will expose profiles. We beat off the line on the floor with the help of a dyeing cord so that all the profiles run vertically without touching the wall, and at the same time do not take up extra space in the room. You may have to lay mineral wool under the plasterboard, this should also be taken into account: then the distance from the existing wall to the plasterboard should be equal to the thickness of the mineral wool. Sometimes it is necessary to get a right angle between the walls: then you need to mark the adjacent walls on the floor, because at this stage it is much easier to control this. When everything is clear with the line on the floor, we draw vertical lines along adjacent walls using a rack level, or using a plumb line. And finally, we close the perimeter on the ceiling. To control the plane, you need to pull two diagonals with a cord. The laces at the intersection should touch, but not strain each other. Cut UD profiles to length. But not completely, but only side walls, and bend the middle wall.

We cut the side shelves UD to bend 90 degrees

Bend the middle wall and you're done

To soundproof structural noise on the middle shelf of the UD, we glue an elastic tape on an adhesive basis - in German it is called dichtung. This simple technique will significantly reduce the rattle of the wall, improve the sound insulation of the room.

Glue the tape to the middle shelf UD

Now you can attach the UD profile. Depending on the material of the floor, walls and ceiling, we select fasteners. For durable concrete that does not crumble, a quick installation dowel (DBM) 6x40 is suitable, for bricks with plaster DBM 6x60, in a loose, not very strong surface, it is better to use DBM 8x60, 8x80. If you need to attach the UD to a tree, then we take wood screws. It is necessary to fix the UD at least every 400 mm.

Important! The flatness of the entire surface will depend on the evenness and verticality of the marking and fixing of the UD.

UD usually has Ø6 mm punched holes for fasteners, however, it happens that the hole went away with the waste, or the hole falls on a fragile section of the wall. Then it is better to outline the missing holes and drill them with a metal drill, placing a bar inside.

It happens that the base to which the UD is attached is uneven, and if fixed in a local "pit", then the profile can bend. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to put gaskets made of wood or plastic in such places.

We put linings under the UD where necessary

If the existing surface is broken, then in this place it is necessary to make cuts on the side walls of the profile. Then you have to, then cut the edge of the sheet, but the profile will not be bent and well fixed.

In the place of a sharp break in the surface, we cut UD

Now it remains to fix the UD under the window sill for the entire length of the window sill. We fasten the UD with self-tapping screws from the bottom of the window sill. It is desirable that the screws do not stick out of the window sill then up :). To fix the profile in plastic, a 9.5 mm flea screw is enough, no more than 15 mm.

Installation of CD rack profiles. Marking and fastening

The fastening of the profile for drywall occurs as follows - on the wall it is necessary to beat off the vertical lines of the CD location. We fix P-shki along these lines - every 500-600 mm. We retreat from the floor and from the ceiling by 500 mm, divide the remaining distance into equal parts.

Each U-frame must be fixed to one hole from each edge (choice: 1 or 2, and 4 or 5), the middle hole 3 can be omitted. In general, it is necessary for preliminary fixing, a long slot will allow you to move the bracket.

P-shka

Fasteners are selected, again, based on the base. For better sound insulation, you can glue a dichtung under the U-shku.

We fasten P-shki

When all the P-shki are fixed, we start the vertical CD racks into the UD profiles. Their length should be such that the profile goes into place without tension and does not hang out: 2-3 mm less than inner size between UD.

We start racks

When all the racks are in place, you need to firmly pull the cord horizontally between the extreme UDs. Now you can bend each bracket to the CD, and in order for the cord not to divert the racks, you need to put a nail or wire into the U-shku so that the racks are slightly bent towards the wall. If this is not done, then the wall will come out "pot-bellied".

We remove the profiles from the lace - with a carnation

Now we remove the limiter-nail from the extreme rack and fasten the rack to the P-shka. These self-tapping flea screws 9.5 mm long:

Self-tapping screw 9.5 mm

Important: None of the racks should take the lace.

We fasten first one screw on each side. It is convenient to turn the self-tapping screw into the hole that matches the groove on the profile. Then the profile will not move, and the screws will pop out.

We fasten the racks to the U-shka

We control that the stand is exactly in line with the lace, and does not divert the lace. Checking long rule so that the height of the rack is also even. Now it's too late to control the verticality: we make sure that we get a flat plane. After control, you can twist on the second flea, for reliability.

We bend the protruding parts of the P-shki

When all the screws are screwed, we bend the ends of the P-shki protruding beyond the plane.

Frame under and above the window

Now we make a jumper from the CD above the window. We make a T-shaped connection on both sides of the jumper. We set it on the horizon, remember that the lower edge of the jumper is a support for the slope. We fasten the jumper with fleas 9.5 mm.
We make a rack from the jumper to the ceiling. Below is a T-connection, at the top it just goes into the UD. We fasten 9.5 mm fleas.

Arrangement of connections in the frame

Node: jumper for post at the edge of the opening

If the rack along the opening becomes so that it has no support, then add jumpers after 500-600 mm and fix the jumpers on the U-shki.

Top view: if the post at the edge of the opening is unsupported

When all the racks are screwed and set according to the markup, we twist the racks to the UD so that they do not move. When the sheet closes the racks, they will not be visible, and in order not to waste time calculating and remembering, we take out the lines for the location of the racks on the floor and ceiling.

We fix the racks and mark their location on the floor and ceiling

Fitting sheets to the required dimensions

It is desirable that the HA does not touch the ceiling and floor by 3-5 mm: this will improve sound insulation, and the HA will not absorb water in case of a small leak. If the floor and ceiling are horizontal, and the corner from which you start sheathing is vertical, i.e. there is a right angle, then it is enough to measure two sizes: the height of the sheet and the width. If the floor is not in the horizon, then first you need to cut this slope from the sheet. This is necessary so that all other edges of the sheets remain in vertical position(more details: and).

Sheet size chart if the floor is not level

And then measure the height and width of the sheet.

Sheet dimensions if both floor and ceiling are not horizontal

If the geometry of the sheet is really ugly, when, for example, there are no right angles, then you need to check the diagonals. At the marked sheet, they should be the same as on the wall.

It must also be taken into account that outer corner, for example, a slope, one of the sheets must be released to the thickness of a suitable edge.

One of the sheets on the outer corner must be released to the thickness of the other

And if these are both factory edges, then the outer putty corner will ideally fit in the recess of the edges, and will not protrude beyond the plane.

Optimum edge variant on the outer corner

Fixing drywall to the wall

For better sound insulation, a dichtung can also be glued to the surface of the frame under the GC. When soundproofing is approached comprehensively, the result is much better.

Comprehensive soundproofing measures

The sheets are attached to the profiles using TN-25 self-tapping screws for metal, 25 mm long.

Screw for fixing drywall sheets ТН-25

We fasten the sheets on each rack and around the perimeter in increments of 20-30 cm.

We fasten the sheets to the frame with a screwdriver or drill with a small number of revolutions

Each screw should sink into the paper by 1-2 mm. Screws must be turned perpendicular to the surface of the sheets. If the screw has gone deeper than 3 mm, then it does not hold well, and you need to step back 5 cm and tighten another one.

Exemplarily twisted screw

You need to carefully twist along the perimeter in UD: when the edge is not factory, but cut off, then if the screw is deepened too much, the edge of the sheet will break. This is not fatal, but it will have to be sealed with putty, and this has a bad effect on the strength of the sheet. If the sheet is cut out inaccurately, and the GK sheet hardly reaches the UD profile, then you can do the same as with the plinth: insert a CD into the UD profile and there is no need to tighten the screws to the very edge of the sheet (green).

An additional CD will help to properly fix the sheet, and the plinth in the future

If a screw head is found on the surface of the profiles, then the HA will not fit tightly. Then we take a bar, apply it in this place to the already exposed sheet, and with an accurate blow of a hammer (without fanaticism?) we crush the HA with reverse side by screw. In general, sheets are optimally measured, cut and screwed in sequence: this way we exclude unnecessary movements of sheets, and we can correct inaccuracies in measurements in a timely manner. So that the sheet can be conveniently set in height (raised by a few millimeters) during screwing, you can use such a bar: the harder you press it with your foot from one edge, the higher the sheet will rise.

The bar helps to set the sheet in height by a few millimeters

Frame for slopes

Now on our wall there are unwired slope surfaces. It looks neat when all slope planes are equally placed on the window (preferably about 5-10 mm). The narrowest point is the hinges on the sash, i.e. It is necessary to “dance” from this side. Then the rest of the slopes can be made according to this size.


Frame for slopes

If the width of the slope does not exceed 600 mm, then two racks are sufficient: one is a CD in the plane of the wall along the edge of the opening, and the second is a CD under the window itself. For rigidity, you can add a horizontal jumper between them. First, we fix the UD profile to the window sill and, in a plane with it, we fix the UD to the upper slope. These will be the guides. Insert a CD cut to size under the window. The easiest way is to fix it on remote bars (chop the bar to size): if the distance between the profile and the surface allows you to fix it with long fasteners through the profile into the wall, then it’s good. If the distance is about 100 mm (it happens in old houses), then the bar can be placed end-to-end: pull the bar with a screw through the profile, and fix the bar itself through the corner. Such attachment points should be every 500-600 mm. Can be mounted on ordinary P-shkah. But there are many difficulties here: it is difficult to work with a screwdriver due to the proximity of the slope, it is difficult to fix the second side of the CD, and the U-shaped bracket cannot ensure the rigidity of the frame "to - from" the window.

We fix drywall on the frame of the side slopes. Then, similarly to the side slopes, we sheathe the upper one: first the frame, then we fasten the sheet. Or you can act in reverse order: first the upper slope, and only then the two side slopes.

We sheathe slopes with drywall

Cut out the top edge.

1. We measure the width of the slope: from the window to the plane of the wall. For control: we check the width in two corners, it often happens that the window is not parallel to the plane of the wall.
2. We measure the length of the slope under the window.
3. Now we apply a 90 degree square to the corner and measure the difference B: how much the outer edge of the slope is larger than the inner one. Also in the second corner, the difference C.
4. We check: the sum of two "differences" B + C and the length of the inner edge of the slope A \u003d the length of the outer slope.
5. Let's mark the sheet. Cut and screw.

Slope Scheme

With side slopes, the situation is the same, only there is a right angle between the window and the window sill.

Approximate consumption of materials for wall cladding 2.5-3 meters high 4.5 m

The location of the sheets on the wall 4.5x2.5-3 m

1. UD 5-6 piecesx3 m;
2. Fasteners for UD 50 pcs;
3. CD 9 piecesx3 m;
4. P-shki 50 pcs;
5. Fasteners for U-shek 100 pcs;
6. Self-tapping screw 9.5 mm (flea) 150 pcs;
7. Drywall 3x1.2 m - 4 sheets + slopes depending on the depth;
8. Screws ТН 25 - 200 pcs;
9. Dichtung: on UD - 15 m + on P-shki 5 m + on CD 50-55 m. Total - 70-75 m 30 mm wide;
10. Mesh at the joints 10 m;
11. Fugenfüller 1-2 kg;
12. Putty corner;
13. Other little things that must be taken into account individually (acrylic sealant), etc.

The main task of repair in apartments and houses is to bring the walls into normal condition. Just a few decades ago, almost no one heard about the ideal smooth walls. Aligned, based on the principle of "at least somehow." The situation can be corrected according to all the rules: delete old plaster and re-plaster on the lighthouses. This is reliable and correct, but at the same time difficult, expensive and time consuming. It is much easier to use dry methods: align the walls with GKL ( drywall sheets).

The second task, which is most often solved in the process repair work, is redevelopment. Old partitions are removed, and new ones are mounted in their place. Decorative and interior partitions are also installed using drywall. This article will discuss how to level and install drywall walls with your own hands: photo, video.

To begin with, it is worth considering cases when it becomes necessary to level the surface of existing walls. There are several options for attaching drywall sheets to walls:

1. On a base of wooden blocks.

It is mounted from jumpers and racks, however, it is attached directly to the wall itself. Too large differences are much more difficult to compensate, first you have to look for the most protruding parts on the wall. Then there are two ways: the first is to try to reduce the differences by cutting off the most protruding places, the second is to focus on them, laying additional bars everywhere.

The main disadvantage of fasteners on wooden bars is that when not dry enough (with a humidity level above 20 percent), they can “lead” during drying, therefore, the whole structure will warp. There is also the possibility of destruction of wood by fungi and pests. Despite this, some regions prefer this method, since lumber prices are much lower than profiles.

1. Installing sheets on a galvanized profile frame allows you to get a perfect flat surface for any curvature.

The profiles are mounted on special clamps from which the frame is assembled in order to front part lintels and posts lay in the same plane. Since the plasterboards are at a decent distance from the main wall, electrical wiring and communications can be laid between the wall and it. Another advantage of the frame from the profile is the possibility of laying a sound pickup and insulation. The disadvantage of this option is that without a heater it conducts sounds well: blows on the wall sheathing sound similar to a drum.

1. Installation of drywall sheets immediately on the walls.

In other words, installing GKL on glue. Use "liquid nails" or special mixtures. This method is available if the plane of the walls is relatively flat, with slight differences of 2-3 centimeters. Glue is applied to the surface of the walls or sheet (in heaps, if there are differences, and in strips, if the walls are even), then the sheet is mounted in place, set using a level, fixed with props and wedges.

The latest technology - landing drywall on glue, the fastest, however, it also has disadvantages. Not everywhere there is glue under the sheets, so hanging cabinets on such a wall is quite problematic. If you previously planned to fix something to the wall, install a mortgage beam as an additional beacon when setting the level or lay a continuous layer of glue. Then the problem will be solved.

Another disadvantage is small differences, the surface is not perfectly smooth (difference of 2-3 millimeters). Between the "pieces" of glue, the GKL bends a little. However, this method is great for quickly leveling walls.

Attachments to the frame, do-it-yourself plasterboard walls: photo, video

So, when sticking a sheet on a wall, no fasteners are required, we will mainly talk about a metal frame. The fastening rules for wood are exactly the same, they just use special self-tapping screws for wood.

The purpose of drywall sheets and their dimensions

A few words about how to put GKL on the walls and what sizes they are. The standard dimensions are: height - 2.5 and 3 meters, width is always 1.2 meters. Sometimes there are "non-standard", slightly shorter lengths. Small sheets are much easier to work with, but there are more seams that need to be sealed. GKL thickness:

• 6 mm and 9 mm - designed for curved surfaces.

• 12.5 mm - universal material for ceiling and walls.

It is often said that nine-millimeter sheets are ceiling. But manufacturing companies do not have such recommendations. Any manufacturer positions thin sheets, such as used to finish uneven surfaces.

Bevels are made along the entire length of the edges of the sheet, which are necessary in order to glue the reinforcing tape and seal it with putty. It is the side on which there is a bevel that is the front. It should be deployed inside the room.

How to join sheets

If it becomes necessary to join drywall sheets in height, try to arrange the joints so that a long line does not form, they are laid with a shift or apart, it is desirable that the offset does not exceed 60 centimeters. Long joints are places where cracks form. By shifting the seam, with almost one hundred percent probability you will get rid of cracks.

If the wall is sheathed with several layers of drywall, then the vertical seams also move. The sheet on top should be installed offset by half the width (60 centimeters).

Do-it-yourself plasterboard wall mounting rules: photo, video

During installation, drywall sheets are pressed against the frame and fastened with special self-tapping screws with flat heads and screwdrivers. If the frame is metal, use TN25 self-tapping screws (25x3.5 mm), in stores they are called “for drywall”. Color - white or black (more often breaks), length - 25 millimeters. For a wooden frame, flat-head self-tapping screws of similar size are selected.

When installing fasteners, it is very important to tighten the self-tapping screw to the desired depth: the cap should be drowned in the sheet, while not tearing the cardboard, it must also be twisted perpendicular to the plane of the sheet, so you reduce the likelihood of damaging the layer of cardboard responsible for rigidity.

When assembling the frame solid wall the gaps between the posts should not exceed 60 centimeters. Then it turns out that each drywall sheet is attached to three verticals: one in the middle of the profile and two along its edges. In this case, the sheet border falls on the middle of the profile.

Having indented from the edge of 10-12 millimeters, screws are screwed in. They can be displaced or placed above one another. Mounting step - 250-300 millimeters. Mounted on the middle profile and around the perimeter.

Another very important point is the height. established sheet, it should be 10-12 millimeters shorter than the height from floor to ceiling. Such a gap must be left in case of shrinkage, so that the partition or wall has the opportunity to compensate for the change in height without cracks (this is especially true for panel and wooden houses). Perhaps these are all the main points of working with drywall.

Partition for a plasterboard wall with your own hands: photo, video

Installing the partition is a little more difficult, so we will describe the process step by step.

1. Markup.

First you need to mark the place for the partition. The easiest way to do this is with laser level (laser builder planes). This line is applied to the ceiling, floor and walls. If there is no laser level, you will have to use a plumb line and a building level ( High Quality). Then, using the level, transfer it to the wall. If both lines are vertical on the walls, the connecting line should be located strictly above the line on the floor, this is checked using a plumb line. It is necessary to achieve the most perfect match, since the quality of the work depends on it.

1. Frame assembly.

Guide profiles are mounted along the marked line on the ceiling and floor. They are marked PN or UW - bearing profile. Most often they are fastened with dowels - 6 * 60 or 6 * 40 millimeters, the distance between the dowels is not more than 40 centimeters.

PN profile has standard height walls (depth) - 40 millimeters, but can be of different widths 100 mm, 75 mm or 50 mm. From the width of the carrier profile will depend on how thick soundproof material or insulation can be laid there, as well as the thickness of the partition.

Racks are installed in the guide profiles. They are marked PS or CW - rack profile. It differs from the guide by the presence of additional shelves on the walls. These shelves increase the bearing capacity, make it more rigid. The width of the rack profile depends on the width of the carrier, they must be identical. It is between them that a heater is installed.

Racks to rails are attached in several ways. The first is used mainly by professional builders. They work as a cutter - a tool that bends and breaks metal to the sides, fastens two parts. Fans, during independent repair work with GKL, are attached to “fleas” (“seeds”, “bugs”) - these are small self-tapping screws with a screw at the bottom (TEX 9.5). They drill the metal themselves, speeding up the assembly process (the holes do not need to be drilled). On each side of the rack is fixed with two self-tapping screws.

An important point, if you put a partition on the ground floor or in a high-rise building, then instead of the ceiling guide and the junction of the rack, apply a special film or some other material that will prevent the appearance of creaking. During walking, there is an oscillation that is transmitted to the profiles, as a result, the profiles rub, and a creak occurs. In the second option, you need to make the racks one centimeter shorter. It is more correct, since the shrinkage of the house is provided, and there are no annoying sounds.

The next step is to install the mesh (no more than 60 centimeters). The distance is determined by the width of the drywall sheet, which is usually 120 centimeters. As mentioned earlier, it turns out that the sheet is attached to three racks, so there should be 60 centimeters between the verticals. If, however, the gap is more than 60 cm, but less than the width of the sheet, a vertical profile is also placed between them, or in this area the sheet will bend and stagger. Another important point lies in the fact that the first rack must be attached to the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe extreme profile, therefore the distance should be slightly less than 57.5 centimeters.

It is advisable to strengthen the profile to which you will attach windows and doors. The easiest way to do this is with a wooden block of the appropriate size. It is fixed with screws inside the profile. To prevent the beam from twisting, you need to use only dry wood. After the racks are exposed and fixed, the structures are stiffened with the help of jumpers.

Jumpers are pieces of rack profiles that are installed horizontally. As a rule, jumpers are located at the height of the joining of two sheets, they must be fixed. Otherwise, in increments of 60 to 80 centimeters. If the wall is small, put 80 cm each, if it is small, 60 cm is enough. It is worth noting that the crossbars above the doors are prerequisite when sheathing GKL. It is also desirable to strengthen them with a wooden block.

1. Laying communications, plasterboard walls with your own hands: photo, video.

After installing all the crossbars, you can begin to lay electrical wiring and communications. Everything is desirable electric wires install in a corrugated sleeve. If the partition is mounted on wooden frame or in wooden house, it must be made of metal. In houses / apartments made of non-combustible materials, in drywall walls on a galvanized frame, it is allowed to use polypropylene corrugated hoses made of non-combustible material (marked "NG").

1. Sheathing with heat / sound insulation and drywall.

After laying communications, they begin to mount drywall sheets. They are installed exactly as when sheathing. First, on one side, then on the other, a sound insulator or insulation is installed between the bars (profiles) of the frame. Next, the wall is sewn up with plasterboard on the other side. For partitions and walls use conventional insulation.

• Styrofoam. One of the varieties of foam. Differs in cells of the closed form thanks to what possesses the best performance: fungi do not develop, do not like rodents, dampens sound well and has excellent thermal insulation properties, denser. It can be installed in a spacer and is easily cut with a hacksaw. Does not support combustion. Minus - high price.

• Styrofoam. To obtain excellent characteristics in terms of heat and sound insulation, a board layer of 6-7 centimeters (density from 35 kg / m3). It conducts sound poorly, retains heat well, is easy to install and has a low cost. The disadvantages are that when burning, it releases hazardous substances and rodents love it.

• Mineral wool. This stone wool(preferably basalt), slag or glass wool. Basalt is considered the most environmentally friendly, because it does not contain formaldehyde. It is quite easy to work with them, they hold well by surprise, they are easy to cut, they are less afraid of moisture, no protective equipment is needed during installation. respiratory tract and skin. Their downside is high price. by the most affordable option of these heaters is slag wool, glass wool has average price, and, of course, the most expensive stone.

In principle, you can use any other heaters, but the ones listed above are considered the most effective.

How to cut drywall?

When sheathing walls with plasterboard sheets, you will have to cut the sheets, since it is not always possible to install them entirely. This will require stationery knife, a long even object (rule, level, beam, board, ruler, etc.) and a wooden block. When cutting curved lines, you may need a jigsaw, but there will be a lot of dust. Sequencing:

• On the front side, draw a line with a pencil along which you want to cut the sheet.

• We bend the broken piece and cut the remaining cardboard.

Everything is really simple, the main thing is to mark it correctly, there will be no further problems.

Do-it-yourself plasterboard walls: photo, video tutorials

Unfortunately, not all features this process can be described, some are better seen with your own eyes. Therefore, we have selected videos that relate to the assembly of the features of working with drywall. Most often, the videos presented relate to the assembly of the frame from profiles. Since this is really one of the most time-consuming work, and how well the frame is formed depends on how even the partition and wall will be.

How to strengthen the racks in the partition?

This non-standard way frame assembly, but the racks are really tough. This method must be used if a full-fledged partition between rooms is erected from the GKL, in which case the reinforcement will definitely not be superfluous. The downside is that it will take much more time, and the price of such a frame is higher.

Which profile is better: grooved or smooth?

The market has various models profiles, including those with rough sidewalls and walls. With the same thickness of the metal, it is stiffer. How good it is in practice, look at the video.

As before, today most homeowners prefer to do their own repairs. This is both more economical and faster, and it will save a lot of nerves. Especially modern market offers us such a variety of materials made according to the latest technologies which makes the job much easier.

Modern coatings are not only comfortable, they are multifunctional, reliable and durable.

One of the extremely popular and widely used analogues is drywall. Due to its low cost and excellent technical properties he won the trust. The sheet device is extremely simple - a layer of gypsum between two sheets of durable cardboard.

This makes it also environmentally friendly, because gypsum - natural material. And laying drywall on the ceiling and walls is quick in time and easy in technology.

Material Features

GKL has a number of undoubted advantages.

Advantages of gypsum sheets

1. Low cost.
2. Light weight and easy to transport.
3. Ability to easily cut sheets in any direction.
4. When wet, the GKL is easy to bend, which gives it many possibilities.
5. Ecological cleanliness, it is safe for others, does not emit harmful substances.
6. Various thicknesses, sizes and purposes. For different purposes, you can choose the appropriate variety - up to fireproof.
7. Excellent soundproofing and heat-insulating properties.
8. Can be installed on almost any surface.
9. It does not require complex expensive tools for installation.
10. Installation is carried out on an extremely simple metal carcass for drywall that makes light work and fast.

When to install

Many are concerned about the question - how to lay drywall in an apartment or a private house, and how difficult it is. On their own, even one person can quite cope with this task. Of course, an assistant will not hurt, especially if you plan to close a fairly large area.

Previously, drywall was attached to wooden frames for drywall, which complicated the process. Now metal is used everywhere, they are much lighter and more convenient to use.

Note!
If you have uneven walls and the ceiling, which is not uncommon, it is advisable to use drywall. This will save you from the laborious leveling of the surface, and there will be a minimum of dirt from the repair.
Moreover, you can not just sheathe the walls, but do it along the way original arches, partitions, niches and much more.

Mounting technology

Initially, you will need to do a few things.

What needs to be done first

1. Measurements must be taken first. You need to know exactly the area of ​​​​the sheathing in order to purchase the right amount of material.
2. In addition to sheets, self-tapping screws are required, metallic profile for drywall. If you plan to additionally insulate the walls, then buy mineral wool mats or polystyrene foam.
3. Of the tools, the most necessary are a screwdriver, a puncher, an electric jigsaw, sharp knife with a set of blades, metal scissors, hammer, markers, level, tape measure.
4. When you have everything you need at hand, the drywall laying technology will not seem complicated to you. Therefore, purchase everything in advance. Consider also what type of material you need (moisture-resistant, fire-resistant or ordinary), as well as what profiles you need. They are available in guide type, rack-mount, corner and ceiling.
5. Make markings on the walls using a level, preferably a laser one. The design in the future will consist of vertical and horizontal racks and additional guides.

Frame assembly

1. The main profile will also run along the top and bottom of the walls. From each corner of the wall, measure 10 centimeters and, using a level, draw vertical lines.
2. Attach the main profiles to the walls with dowels in increments of 50-60 cm. It is easy to cut them with ordinary metal scissors.
3. Now, on the NP (guide profile) fixed on the floor, mark with a marker the places for attaching the PP (ceiling profile). Moreover, from the wall, make the distance to the middle of the first profile from 20 cm to 50 cm. This must be done, otherwise a thin edge from a drywall sheet will turn out in the corner.
4. Place all other planks from the middle to the middle of the profile at a distance of 60 cm. The very last sheet should not be narrower than 20 cm.
5. By continuing to do the work with your own hands, you will quickly get comfortable and realize that the process is similar to assembling a conventional constructor. After marking the vertical profiles, the marks are transferred to the ceiling guide. Be sure to use a level.
6. Suspensions are attached to the wall on the dowels at a distance of about 80 cm from each other. Insert the PP profile into the NP, and after attaching the hangers according to the marks, mark the mounting holes. Drill them and fasten the hangers.
7. Now you can attach the PP-slats. The photo clearly shows how this is done. The twine is stretched along the level of the suspensions between the guides already attached to the wall. Self-tapping screws fix the profiles to the guides and suspensions. The guide is attached so that its middle coincides with the mark. Already fixed, it should only lightly touch the stretched string.
8. After installing the vertical bars, the horizontal ones are set. They are attached either to pieces of the guide, or to crabs. We cut off the PP with a length of 54 cm, NP - 10 cm each. Measure 250 cm from the ceiling or floor to the middle of the profile and fasten it according to the level.

Drywall has long occupied its niche in the market. It enjoys well-deserved popularity, as it is a versatile material that can be attached to walls or ceilings or used as a partition. However, depending on the place of installation, installation methods will change, various tricks will appear that must be taken into account when carrying out work.

Drywall is used to level walls and ceilings in a room.

There are several ways: on a metal or wooden frame or on glue. Each method has its own advantages and disadvantages. It is worth considering them in more detail.

Mounting on the walls in a frame way: the necessary materials and tools

This method is applicable to any premises, regardless of their size and purpose. The frame is used when closing walls and ceilings, as well as when erecting a partition from gypsum plasterboard. It is worth noting that the crate is assembled in almost the same way in all cases.

On initial stage it is necessary to prepare all materials and tools. To carry out the work you will need:

• perforator;
• screwdriver;
• hammer;
• mounting knife;
• self-tapping screws for wood or metal (depending on the material of the crate);
• scissors or a hacksaw for metal;
• drywall;
• profiles or slats;
• mounting hangers;
• pencil;
• level;
• roulette;
• plumb;
• square.

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Wall preparation and ground marking

Important! Substrate preparation includes cleaning the wall from easily peelable coatings, repairing in the presence of significant damage, and removing deformations.

The next step is markup. From the wall to be closed, it is necessary to indent the distance necessary for laying communications and insulation. Further, the location of the guide profiles located on the floor and ceiling, as well as on the walls, is noted. All guides must be in the same plane. Then it is marked where they will be rack profiles. The distance between them should be 40-60 cm. In this case, it is necessary to calculate the distance so that the edges of the drywall sheets lie on the profiles, and do not fall into the gap between them.

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Mounting the frame for plasterboard

Next, the frame is assembled. First of all, guide profiles are installed on the floor and ceiling. The reliability of the entire structure will depend on them, so they need to be fixed very carefully. Installation of profiles is carried out using dowels with a pitch of 40-60 cm. Further, guides are installed on the walls in a similar way.

Then to the wall along the line load-bearing profiles mounting brackets are installed. The step is 60 cm. On adjacent lines, it is desirable to shift the plumb lines relative to each other. You can arrange them in a checkerboard pattern. This will give greater strength and rigidity to the structure. Next, rack profiles are inserted into the guides and bred in their places. They are attached to the guides and to the plumb lines. Self-tapping screws can be used for this operation. If the plumb lines have “ears”, they should be wrapped inside the frame. After installing the vertical profiles, proceed to the installation of the transverse ones. All operations are performed in the same way.

If the profile is too long, it can be cut using a hacksaw or metal shears. If, on the contrary, it is short, then it is necessary to increase the length using special connectors.
The crate of wooden bars is assembled in a similar way.

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Installing plasterboard on walls

The last step is the installation of drywall. However, before proceeding to the final stage, it is necessary to resolve the issue of sound and heat insulation of the room. As a heater, you can use mineral wool, foam sheets, cork. All of these materials absorb sound well. Installation of communications, laying engineering systems produced before the walls are sewn up with plasterboard.
When the room is insulated and all communications are connected, you can proceed with the installation of sheets. To do this, you need metal screws.

Important! GKL is drilled every 30-40 cm to all frame profiles.

During installation, the following rules must be observed:

1. Sheets should lie down in a checkerboard pattern or like brickwork.
2. GKL can be mounted both vertically and horizontally.
3. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the material at a right angle, deviations are unacceptable. The heads must be recessed into the drywall by at least 1 mm. Tails - go out of the profile by at least 10 mm.
4. The panels must be securely fixed around the perimeter and in the center to prevent sagging. The edges of the sheets must fit on the profile.
5. When fastening the GKL, it is necessary to indent from the edge of the sheet with a factory cut of at least 10 mm, with its own - at least 15 mm.

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Pros and cons of this type of drywall installation

This method has much more positive sides, it is more often used:

• walls are leveled even with significant differences, pits or ledges;
• all the flaws of the foundation are masked;
• reliable fastening of drywall;
• no need for careful preparation base, its alignment, etc.;
• the possibility of additional insulation and soundproofing of the room;
• lack of "wet" operations;
• can be used in any room.

There are only three main disadvantages:

• reduction in the area of ​​​​the room;
• low maintainability;
• there is no solid wall behind the GKL.

If assembling the frame seems too troublesome, then you can try simply gluing the material to the walls.

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Fixing drywall with glue

It is not always possible to glue drywall. It can only be used if the following conditions are met:

1. There is no need for additional heat or sound insulation of the room. Qualitatively fix the GKL on mineral wool or other material is not possible: it will fall off after a while.
2. Irregularities on the walls do not exceed 20 mm. Otherwise, the sheets will warp, like the base, or will not stick, because on the cavities the glue simply will not reach the wall.
3. The height of the room does not exceed the length of the sheet. Standard size panels is 2500x1200 mm. If the height is greater, then you will have to look for a sheet 3 m long, but not everywhere there are such. It is not allowed to increase the length using cut pieces. It is difficult to do exactly and at the same time with high quality.

If at least one of these conditions is not met, it is better to use wireframe method mounts. It is impossible to glue drywall on the ceiling: in this case, a crate must be used. Among the special advantages of this type installation can be noted saving space. It is very handy in small spaces.

Construction work requires a special approach. Each owner has his own preferences regarding how this or that design will look. Among the most sought-after finishing materials Special attention should be given to drywall. It has been used in construction for over 100 years, but even today drywall is an indispensable part of any repair. Therefore, many have the question of how to do it yourself. The thing is that laying drywall on a wall, ceiling, etc. very simple. However, if all the work is planned to be done by hand, some subtleties must be taken into account.

Drywall today is actively used for leveling walls indoors.

Preparation for laying on the surface of the drywall wall

On this stage you need to perform the following steps: prepare materials and a set of tools that will be needed in the process; make possible free access to structures that need finishing; prepare the wall surfaces themselves.

What you need to know when purchasing materials.

1. The selection of materials consists in the purchase the right amount building material for installation. In addition, before laying the GKL on the plane of the wall, it is necessary to purchase drywall, metal profiles or wooden slats to build the frame structure, fasteners (dowel-nails, self-tapping screws).
2. In addition, it is necessary to consider some of the nuances regarding the amount of material purchased. Drywall is often sold in sheets 1200 mm wide and 2500 mm long. Therefore, it is required to consider the required number of drywall sheets, given their dimensions.
3. When buying a GKL, one must take into account the estimated place of its installation and make an order for the material expediently according to the technical data (normal, moisture resistant, fire resistant, etc.). If drywall will be used for the false panels of the fireplace, it is better to buy heat-insulating materials in addition.
4. If we consider the materials for the construction of the skeleton, most often they use guide profiles and rack profiles for this. In addition, all available parts for connection, crosses, mounting hangers, self-tapping screws for metal can be useful.

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Tool preparation

Before you start laying drywall yourself, you need to prepare the tools for the job. As a rule, it is recommended to use the following devices:

• screwdriver or electric drill with a bit for self-tapping screws;
• hammer;
• perforator;
• mounting knife;
• metal scissors.

When preparing primary wall planes, it is necessary to have free access to the object in order to clean all easily peeling materials from the wall plane and correct deformed surfaces.

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Drawing markings in the room

Before you start laying drywall, mark the installation sites for finishing materials. At the same time, it is necessary to treat this action with the greatest responsibility in order to simplify the process of laying drywall and reduce the number of GKL consumed.

They make the markup in the following gradation:

1. Moving away from the primary plane of the wall to the distance necessary for laying the heat insulator and communications, holes are drilled in the ceiling for screws at the end corners (points) of the wall.
2. Then plumb lines are attached to the screws, and at those points where they touch the floor, fasteners are also attached (but only to the floor plane). Then, placing a single thread between the screws on the ceiling and the same thread between the screws on the floor, mark the primary lines that will show the fastening positions of the profiles for the supporting frame.
3. All other walls of the room are marked in the same way. Screws and chopping cords are removed after all markings are drawn, and then proceed to the next phase.

In order to put drywall on the wall surface with the greatest efficiency, the following tips should be followed when marking:

1. It is necessary to use a plumb line or building level.
2. Retreat at such a distance from the surface of the wall that it takes up as little space as possible. free space rooms, but at the same time it is problem-free to install GKL.
3. Marking is carried out on the surfaces of the walls to indicate the installation location of the profile racks. This is done by using special dyes or with a pencil. The marking is carried out in vertical segments with a distance of 40 or 60 cm (so that the edges of the sheets that are interconnected lie on one profile rack).

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Construction of a supporting frame for mounting drywall

Profile guides are mounted along the pre-marked marking lines to the plane of the ceiling and floor, for which, as a rule, a puncher is used. Proper holes are drilled in the floor and ceiling planes and dowel-nails are installed there. And profiles are attached to them with the help of screws. It is important to take into account here that the strength of the entire structure depends on the accuracy of this operation. Therefore, the distance between the fasteners for fixing the profile guides is taken in the range from 40 cm to 60 cm (depending on the calculated load on the plane of the walls of the drywall sheets).

At the next stage, the profile guides are mounted to the planes of the walls in the same way, measuring them between the lower and upper systems profile guides. In other words, the process must be executed in such a way that all profile guides are located in the same plane.

The next step, using markings perpendicular to the floor, hangers for mounting are attached to the wall surfaces, which will later fix the profile racks, giving supernumerary rigidity to the entire structure. Their installation is also done using dowel-nails, but it will be important to follow the advice:

1. Hangers should be placed on each marking line with a distance between them of no more than 0.6 m.
2. When placing mounting fasteners on rows that are adjacent, make a deviation to increase the expected rigidity of the frame foundation.
3. When building an arch from drywall sheets, use additional perforation objects.

After that, the profile racks are attached to the frame. To do this, they are threaded into the cavities of the lower and upper profile guides and screwed at the connection points using self-tapping screws not only to the guide profiles, but also to straight hangers, and the ends that come out are bent into inside frame.

When carrying out this action, it may be necessary to increase or trim the profile racks, since they must coincide in length with the surfaces of the walls. Thus, an increase in racks can be made using special combiners and self-tapping screws, while cutting off excess parts can be done using ordinary scissors for cutting metal.

All surfaces requiring finishing should be equipped in a similar way. In this case, it should be taken into account that in order to increase the strength and improve the installation of drywall sheets, it is recommended to install profiles perpendicular to the longitudinal sheets, attaching them to them using fasteners.