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Installation of hl on the walls. How to install drywall sheets. Installation of CD rack profiles. Marking and fastening

Smooth and beautiful walls give the room modern look European level. But in order to reach good results, it takes a lot of effort. Without the involvement of professionals, it is very difficult to carry out the process of leveling the ceiling and walls. Fortunately, modern industry provides high-quality material - drywall, with which you can get comfortable and even surfaces for repairs, ready for any type of finish. At the same time, you can carry out such repairs yourself.

Drywall installation rules: walls, ceiling. The effectiveness of the cladding of the GKL room

Drywall is one of the most favored building materials by both hobbyists and professional craftsmen. It is present on every construction site for more than one century, since immediately after its creation (as early as the 19th century) it began to be used as a cladding for walls (as a finishing material), ceiling and partitions.

The material is used not only for cladding, on which it then remains only to apply wallpaper, whitewash or paint, also drywall can act as a leveler for the ceiling and walls. So, for example, with the help of GKL and a frame, you can level the wall in the bathroom or in the kitchen, tiles are well attached to it.

The material practically does not crumble, so after the installation work there will be no special measures to clean the working surface, which will save not only your time, but also physical forces. One of the main advantages of drywall sheets is their cost, this material is much cheaper than other building materials. Another important plus is the large size of the products.

The length of one GKL is on average 250 centimeters, and the width is 120 centimeters. As a result, when mounting walls, ceilings or partitions with plasterboard, you can avoid a huge number of joints, respectively, and seams between sheets. Therefore, after installation, you do not need to carry out lengthy and thorough alignment work. finished surface and grouting on walls and ceilings.

Those who at least once in their life have faced the need to carry out repair work in the house, for sure, know that certain works that are implied during the repair are much more efficient, more profitable and faster to do it yourself. Of course, this does not apply to such types of work as refurbishment heating system or installation of a stretch ceiling.

However, if you intend to hire workers to lay the floor or hang wallpaper, think carefully about trying to solve the problem yourself. Most likely, you will come to this conclusion after you make sure that in this process there is practically no difficulty.

In addition to finishing work, installation of adhesive, hemming and suspended ceilings, as well as their painting or whitewashing. It's quite realistic to do on their own construction of light partitions between separate rooms.

Rules for installing drywall on walls and ceilings: how to properly sheathe ceilings and walls of plasterboard, what materials are required for this, what problems can arise during installation work?

If you want to sheathe the ceiling and walls with drywall, you first need to make a profile frame. This can be done with the help of GKL, which is mounted to the partition frame with a screwdriver and, of course, self-tapping screws. All this is sold in hardware stores. Therefore, in order not to be disappointed later in the amount spent on materials, as well as in the quality of the work performed, evaluate your potential ability to carry out repair work, strength and try to finish the ceiling and walls with plasterboard yourself.

The workflow must begin with the walls and end with the ceiling. After that, in exactly the same sequence, you can start the main repair work on the cladding of the GKL.

The preparatory stage begins with the markup. At the same time, you need to adhere to the basic rules that allow you to achieve high results in your work.

Regardless of how Smooth surface ceiling and walls in the room, before starting the installation work, you should once again carefully measure everything and carry out the installation necessary elements at proven angles, horizontals and verticals.

Rules for installing drywall on walls, ceilings: highlights

1. Marking the walls for mounting the frame for drywall.

Using a spirit level, make sure that there are no deviations on the ceiling and walls. Carefully check all joints on the walls. Identified deviations should be fixed and eliminated when marking.

During alignment, you will be able to remove any distortions and avoid unexpected nuances when cladding walls with plasterboard sheets. At this stage, you can begin to install the base profile under the drywall.

First of all, it is necessary to mount the guide profiles according to the pre-applied markings. You need to install two guide profiles for each wall - one on the floor and the other on top.

The ceiling will require four profiles, which must be mounted under the ceiling above each wall. When there is a need to achieve a vertical, horizontal or right angle it is recommended to place any rigid material of the required thickness under the guide profile. Guides that are designed for walls must be mounted on the floor so that the open part is at the top. On the ceiling, the guides are installed with the open part down.

The gap between the walls and the guides should be minimal, and the resulting area should correspond to the vertical. The gap between the base of the ceiling and the guide profile should not exceed ten centimeters.

1. Fastening and installation of the main frame profile.

To fix the guides, you will need self-tapping screws and dowels. The process is carried out in steps of 40 to 50 centimeters. After that, apply vertical lines on the wall in steps of 60 centimeters, on which fix the hangers with self-tapping screws and dowels.

The mounting step of the suspensions should correspond to a distance of 40-50 centimeters. Such suspensions will provide rigidity not only profile frame but of the entire structure. Now you can start installing the main profile, for this you need to insert the ends of the slats into the guides and attach them with screws to the slat, guides and hangers. In the process of work, experts recommend clearly monitoring the verticality of the profile strips using the building level.

When installation work wall frame are finished, you can proceed to install the frame on the ceiling. The work is carried out in exactly the same sequence as when installing the frame on the walls, the only difference is that the guides must be attached not to the wall, but to the wall frame. In addition, in order to ensure ceiling structure, you need to supplement the frame with perpendicular inserts of the main profile.

Rules for installing drywall on walls and ceilings: photo and video

Having completed the process of forming the profile frame system, you can proceed to the cladding of the ceiling and walls of the plasterboard. Before you start sheathing the surfaces in the room, it is advised to first draw a project for the location of the sheets and their segments on the ceiling and walls. This will enable you to prepare drywall sheets the required size, which greatly simplifies the sheathing work.

To ensure the reliability of the entire structure, the sheathing process should be carried out according to certain rules:

• The joints of the GKL should be exactly on the axis of the profile strips. One bar should be behind the sheet in the center.

• The process of cutting sheets is carried out along pre-planned lines. For cutting, a sharp clerical knife is used, you need to make a cut to a depth of 2-3 millimeters. The prepared drywall sheet must be placed on the table, so that the incision is located closer to the edge. Gently press down on the cut with your hand and break it. Then stationery knife cut the cardboard on the other side.

• To cover the GKL ceiling, you need to purchase a special ceiling drywall, with a small margin (10-20 percent of the total).

• To correctly calculate the required amount of drywall, add the total surface area of ​​the ceiling and walls separately.

Plasterboard sheets are quite large and heavy, so it is very difficult to cope with the task on your own. Ceiling drywall is attached with additional strips to the transverse across the entire width. On this note, the wall and ceiling cladding ends. And the next process is finishing. To properly complete the finish, you must purchase a special adhesive mesh. The grid is superimposed on the joints of the sheets and carefully puttied. Wait until the putty dries well, and you can start painting the walls.

As you can see, the rules for installing drywall on walls and ceilings are quite simple, and the process itself can be completed without the involvement of specialists, so you can save a lot family budget. We hope that our advice, tips from experts, videos and photos have helped you, and you will cope with your task without any problems.

Construction work requires a special approach. Each owner has his own preferences regarding how this or that design will look. Among the most sought-after finishing materials Special attention should be given to drywall. It has been used in construction for over 100 years, but even today drywall is an indispensable part of any repair. Therefore, many have the question of how to do it yourself. The thing is that laying drywall on a wall, ceiling, etc. very simple. However, if all the work is planned to be done by hand, some subtleties must be taken into account.

Drywall today is actively used for leveling walls indoors.

Preparation for laying on the surface of the drywall wall

On this stage you need to perform the following steps: prepare materials and a set of tools that will be needed in the process; make possible free access to structures that need finishing; prepare the wall surfaces themselves.

What you need to know when purchasing materials.

1. The selection of materials consists in the purchase the right amount building material for installation. In addition, before laying the GKL on the plane of the wall, it is necessary to purchase drywall, metal profiles or wooden slats to build the frame structure, fasteners (dowel-nails, self-tapping screws).
2. In addition, it is necessary to consider some of the nuances regarding the amount of material purchased. Drywall is often sold in sheets 1200 mm wide and 2500 mm long. Therefore, it is required to consider the required number of drywall sheets, given their dimensions.
3. When buying a GKL, one must take into account the estimated place of its installation and make an order for the material expediently according to the technical data (normal, moisture resistant, fire resistant, etc.). If drywall will be used for the false panels of the fireplace, it is better to buy heat-insulating materials in addition.
4. If we consider the materials for the construction of the skeleton, most often they use guide profiles and rack profiles for this. In addition, all available parts for connection, crosses, mounting hangers, self-tapping screws for metal can be useful.

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Tool preparation

Before you start laying drywall yourself, you need to prepare the tools for the job. As a rule, it is recommended to use the following devices:

• screwdriver or electric drill with a bit for self-tapping screws;
• hammer;
• perforator;
• mounting knife;
• metal scissors.

When preparing primary wall planes, it is necessary to have free access to the object in order to clean all easily peeling materials from the wall plane and correct deformed surfaces.

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Drawing markings in the room

Before you start laying drywall, mark the installation sites for finishing materials. At the same time, it is necessary to treat this action with the greatest responsibility in order to simplify the process of laying drywall and reduce the number of GKL consumed.

They make the markup in the following gradation:

1. Moving away from the primary plane of the wall to the distance necessary for laying the heat insulator and communications, holes are drilled in the ceiling for screws at the end corners (points) of the wall.
2. Then plumb lines are attached to the screws, and at those points where they touch the floor, fasteners are also attached (but only to the floor plane). Then, placing a single thread between the screws on the ceiling and the same thread between the screws on the floor, mark the primary lines that will show the fastening positions of the profiles for load-bearing frame.
3. All other walls of the room are marked in the same way. Screws and chopping cords are removed after all markings are drawn, and then proceed to the next phase.

In order to put drywall on the wall surface with the greatest efficiency, the following tips should be followed when marking:

1. It is necessary to use a plumb line or building level.
2. Retreat at such a distance from the surface of the wall that it takes up as little space as possible. free space rooms, but at the same time it is problem-free to install GKL.
3. Marking is carried out on the surfaces of the walls to indicate the installation location of the profile racks. This is done by using special dyes or with a pencil. The marking is carried out in vertical segments with a distance of 40 or 60 cm (so that the edges of the sheets that are interconnected lie on one profile rack).

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Construction of a supporting frame for mounting drywall

Profile guides are mounted along the pre-marked marking lines to the plane of the ceiling and floor, for which, as a rule, a puncher is used. Proper holes are drilled in the floor and ceiling planes and dowel-nails are installed there. And profiles are attached to them with the help of screws. It is important to take into account here that the strength of the entire structure depends on the accuracy of this operation. Therefore, the distance between the fasteners for fixing the profile guides is taken in the range from 40 cm to 60 cm (depending on the calculated load on the plane of the walls of the drywall sheets).

At the next stage, the profile guides are mounted to the planes of the walls in the same way, measuring them between the lower and upper systems profile guides. In other words, the process must be executed in such a way that all profile guides are located in the same plane.

The next step, using markings perpendicular to the floor, hangers for mounting are attached to the wall surfaces, which will later fix the profile racks, giving supernumerary rigidity to the entire structure. Their installation is also done using dowel-nails, but it will be important to follow the advice:

1. Hangers should be placed on each marking line with a distance between them of no more than 0.6 m.
2. When placing mounting fasteners on rows that are adjacent, make a deviation to increase the expected rigidity of the frame foundation.
3. When building an arch from drywall sheets, use additional perforation objects.

After that, the profile racks are attached to the frame. To do this, they are threaded into the cavities of the lower and upper profile guides and screwed at the connection points using self-tapping screws not only to the guide profiles, but also to straight hangers, and the ends that come out are bent into inside frame.

When carrying out this action, it may be necessary to increase or trim the profile racks, since they must coincide in length with the surfaces of the walls. Thus, an increase in racks can be made using special combiners and self-tapping screws, while cutting off excess parts can be done using ordinary scissors for cutting metal.

All surfaces requiring finishing should be equipped in a similar way. In this case, it should be taken into account that in order to increase the strength and improve the installation of drywall sheets, it is recommended to install profiles perpendicular to the longitudinal sheets, attaching them to them using fasteners.

One of the fastest, easiest and budget methods produce Finishing work indoors is the installation of drywall on the walls. The construction material allows in as soon as possible install a solid and fairly versatile wall, due to which an absolutely flat surface of the main load-bearing partitions is formed, as well as organize additional heat and sound insulation. And in order for you to succeed and the finished result exceeds all your expectations, we will tell you how to install drywall on the wall with your own hands.

Drywall for wall cladding - general information about the material

Drywall is universal material for wall decoration due to the following qualities:

• Availability;
• The ability to get a completely flat surface;
• Environmental friendliness;
• High impact resistance external factors environment;
• Ease of operation;
• Ease of installation;
• The ability to carry out spot repairs with the least amount of time and money.

In addition, drywall allows you to put sound insulation and all the communications you need into the empty space between the sheets and the rough coating. Concerning decorative finishes, you can cover such a wall with absolutely any material.

Important! Drywall allows you to design a variety of niches, shelving and arches directly on the wall surface. This is a huge advantage of this material compared to others, which allows you to equip small rooms with minimal loss of free space.

Tools and materials you will need for the job

To install drywall on the wall, you will need special tools and materials that will greatly facilitate the work process.

Tools:

• Screwdriver for fixing drywall to the grate and mounting the frame;
• Spatula of medium size;
• Notched trowel for spreading glue on the surface of the sheets;
• Construction or clerical knife;
• Electric drill with perforator;
• Drills for concrete;
• Nozzle mixer for kneading glue;
• Capacity for the adhesive composition, about 8 liters in volume;
• Paint roller;
• Scissors for cutting metal;
• Plane;
• Grout for processing joints;
• grinder;
• Prosekatel.

Drywall

In hardware stores you can find different colors drywall sheets. This is due to the fact that this material is produced taking into account the conditions of the room in which it will be used.

For example:

1. Grey. It is used mainly in residential areas with normal humidity. Designate it GKL.
2. Light purple or pink. It is a heat-resistant material that is used for sheathing stoves and fireplaces. GKLO designation.
3. Green shades. Such drywall is used for wall cladding in rooms with high humidity, such as a bathroom. It is defined by the abbreviation GKLV.
4. Blue or dark grey. This material combines the properties of moisture resistance and heat resistance at once. It is used most often for finishing baths and boiler rooms, they are designated GKLVO.

Important! Drywall is best taken 10-15% over the amount you need.

Metallic profile

You will need the following types:

1. guide.
2. Rack-mounted.
3. Ceiling.
4. Protective corner.

Additional consumables and accessories:

• Direct hangers.
• Sealing tape.
• Dry mortar(when frameless mounting drywall sheets).
• Primer for pre-treatment walls and preparation for subsequent puttying.
• Gypsum-based putty for sealing joints.
• Reinforcing mesh or tape.
• Self-tapping screws for working with drywall.
• Dowels for fixing racks.
• Thermal insulating material.

Installation of drywall on the wall in a frame way

This type of installation is considered the most common, since this design is more reliable, especially if you want to make decorative cladding tiled walls.

Important! The only disadvantage of installing drywall on a frame is the complexity of the installation itself and the need to purchase additional materials.

In order to make it more clear to you, we have divided the further process of actions into three stages.

Stage 1. Schema construction and markup

Before starting all work, it is very important to draw future scheme arrangement of drywall sheets on the wall. Thanks to this action, you will be able to use the material more rationally and economically.

Important! Pay attention to the fact that the wall is sheathed exclusively in a checkerboard pattern, and drywall sheets are placed strictly vertically. These details should also be indicated in the schematic drawing.

After you have drawn the location of the drywall on the wall, you should determine the future location of the metal profiles. The markup should be done like this:

1. Set aside a distance from the work surface so that you can easily lay insulating materials and communications. Drill screws in the corners.
2. Attach a plumb line to one of the screws. At the point of contact with the floor, fix the same screw. Do the same with the opposite corner.
3. Pull similar cords between the upper and lower screws and mark the base lines along which the supporting frame profiles will be laid in the future.
4. Further, according to the same principle, transfer the entire layout to the wall surface.
5. Remove screws when finished.

Stage 2. Mounting the frame from profiles

After you have transferred the markup to the walls, adhering to it, you can install the drywall profile on the wall. The sequence of actions is as follows:

• Measure and, if necessary, cut the profiles to the length you need.
• Take the guide profile that you will mount to the floor, glue it with sealing tape. Fasten it to the floor along the marked lines. The fastening step must be at least 1 unit per 60 centimeters.

Important! Please note that if the base of the floor is concrete, the mounting holes should be prepared in advance, and plastic dowels should be used for stronger fixation.

• Fix the ceiling guide profile in the same way.
• Now you can start installing vertical profiles. To do this, determine the center at the place where the profile will be fixed, install a suspension in it. Moving from the center point up and down, install the frame elements every 60 centimeters.

Important! Installation of vertical metal profiles should start from the corner of the room.

• Insert the metal vertical profile simultaneously into the upper and lower profiles, while placing it between the suspension petals. Check the level of its accuracy of location, and then fix it to the suspension.
• Install the rest of the vertical profiles in the same way.

Important! If you plan to make a decorative wall cladding with tiles, it is better to reduce the spacing of the racks to 40 centimeters.

• If the room has a window opening, mount the jumper so that it is between the window sill and vertical profiles. She will be the main bearing profile window opening. In the same way, install the frame near the doorway.

Important! In addition to the window and door opening, such a frame element should be installed at all joints. They should be fastened with rack profiles using “crabs”.

Stage 3. Wall cladding

Before fixing the drywall sheets to the wall, insulating material should be laid.

Important! It is best to use foam, cork or mineral wool. It should be laid in empty strips metal frame, while passing through the profiles and fixing the hangers with curved legs.

Now you can proceed to the installation of drywall on the wall with your own hands. The sequence of actions is as follows:

1. Install bottom sheets on the wall with a gap of about 10-15 millimeters from the floor.
2. Fix drywall with a special self-tapping screw.
3. Sheathe the rest of the wall in the same way.
4. At the end of the work, putty all joints and clean the surface with an emery net.

That's all, the walls are ready for applying the subsequent decorative coating!

Important! Pay attention to these tips:

• Fastening with self-tapping screws should be carried out in all racks and jumpers;
• The self-tapping screw should be located at least 10 millimeters from the edge of the sheet;
• The step between the screws should be about 25-35 centimeters;
• If the self-tapping screw could not be fixed, then it is better for you to remove the old one immediately, and screw the new one into the hole located in increments of 5 centimeters.

Frameless mounting method

This cladding option is suitable for small spaces, since the fastening of drywall sheets to the wall runs close. If you decide to use this technology, consider the fact that the method you have chosen has its own nuances:

• The height of the room should not exceed the length of the sheets. This is due to the fact that horizontal mount in this installation option is not allowed.
• If the curvature of the walls exceeds 5 centimeters, it will need to be pre-aligned before sheathing. Therefore, in this case, it would be more appropriate to make wall cladding wireframe.

For wall cladding with drywall in a frameless way, you should adhere to the following scheme of actions:

1. Prepare the base. To do this, remove old wallpaper, paint, and other debris from the wall surface.
2. Prime the cleaned surface.
3. Using a plumb bob, measure the depth of the unevenness.
4. Make a preliminary marking of the walls.
5. Cut drywall sheets, cut holes for sockets and switches.

Now make the wall cladding directly. It can be done in three ways:

• If the wall irregularities are approximately 4 millimeters, drywall can be fixed using gypsum putty. To do this, using a notched trowel, apply an adhesive mixture to the center and along the perimeter of the sheet. Next, the sheet should be lifted and pressed against the wall. Level check the correct position and, using rubber mallet, align the sheet vertically with gentle strokes. Subsequent sheets of drywall are laid closely without joints.

Important! If you plan to hang anything on this wall in the future, then putty the sheet should be completely.

• This cladding option is used in cases where the curvature of the walls reaches 2 centimeters. Therefore, it is advisable to use a stronger adhesive for such surfaces. As for the sheathing process, in this case, the glue is applied every 25-35 centimeters in the form of piles with a diameter of 10-15 centimeters and a height of 2-2.5 centimeters. The wall sticker process is the same as the previous method.
• This technology is used when the walls are uneven about 4 centimeters. In this case, drywall sheets are cut into strips 10 centimeters wide and glued in increments of 40-60 centimeters. Using a level, the strips are aligned vertically with each other in one plane. Such a frame is given time to dry for 2-3 days, after which, with the help of putty, it is fixed to the wall.

footage

Plasterboard wall cladding - this is a creative process, and if you feel the strength in yourself to carry it out on your own, then you can safely take on the matter, even if you have not encountered this material before. The most important thing is to prepare everything necessary tools and correctly determine the installation method. Only in this case you will be able to prepare the wall for further finishing work in a short time and without much physical effort.

One of the methods of rough finishing is the formation of the surface, when drywall is installed on walls without a frame. In the article, we will consider effective technologies that involve the installation of drywall directly on the wall surface, and also designate the list of materials necessary for this.

Frameless GKL installation - what are the pros and cons?

The main way to form a wall structure from plasterboard sheets is their installation on a pre-built frame. This technology is a priority, as it allows you to quickly create an ideal surface, regardless of quality. base wall. The space between the profile and the wall is convenient to use for hidden laying of various communications: electrical wires in a protective corrugation, water and heating pipes.

But wireframe method There are several disadvantages of installing GKL:

• hiding the usable space of the room (minimum distance from base surface to the back of the profile - 5 cm, the thickness of the drywall sheet - 12.5-15 mm);
• to obtain a rigid structure that is resistant to possible mechanical influences, it is necessary to sheathe the crate in two sheets or significantly compact the step of the supporting elements of the frame;
• problems with reliable fastening of heavy hanging furniture;
• the complexity of designing the supporting frame, which requires professional skills and an impressive set of tools;
• the relative high cost of the process of creating a false wall from gypsum boards.

If you need to level the walls in a small room (bathroom, toilet, corridor), “stealing” up to 7 cm of usable space on the lining of each wall is an unaffordable luxury, especially when there is no hidden laying of complex communications or additional insulation or sound insulation. In this situation, it is more reasonable to create a surface for subsequent finishing by attaching drywall to the wall without profiles. Sheets are attached directly to the wall using adhesive solutions, mounting foam or dowel screws.

Sometimes these materials are used in combination, for example, foam plus dowels, or mounting adhesive plus foam. This does not mean that one way to attach drywall excludes the use of another. In addition to compactness, the frameless method of installing drywall on the wall has several more advantages:

• relative ease of installation at its high speed;
• lower material costs for a set of installation measures;
• opportunity to do solid construction, using one-sheet sheathing.

The disadvantage of rough plasterboard walls without a frame and profiles is the impossibility quality installation with a large longitudinal or vertical curvature of the base wall (more than 6 cm within one sheet). Another feature is the high requirements for the GCR itself. Sheets of sheathing material should be minimally deformed. If the slight curvature of drywall sheets does not matter when mounted on a frame to which they are rigidly attracted, then the frameless method involves a floating installation, so it is important to properly store and transport the material, preventing its deformation. GKL purchased ahead of time cannot be stored in wet rooms, especially in a standing position, leaning them against the wall. Sheets should be laid out on a flat floor or rack.

How is drywall fixed - glue, foam or dowels?

To attach the GKL to the base surface, several materials are used that are specialized and universal. The first group includes special formulations designed for installing drywall to a wall without profiles. These are dry packaged mixtures on a polymer-cement or gypsum basis. The most popular representative of specialized compositions is gypsum glue Knauf Pearlfix preferred by most professionals. It is packaged dry in bags of 30 kg.

Advantages of this glue:

• sufficient time for installation and correction of the sheet position (30-40 min);
• high strength and reliability of the wall / plasterboard connection;
• high elasticity of the prepared solution, which allows mounting on surfaces with a curvature of up to 3 cm without gluing additional stops;
• no need to wait for the glue to dry - immediately after it has set, the plasterboard surface is suitable for subsequent finishing (processing);
• adheres even to materials with increased moisture absorption (wood, porous building materials).

The second most used material is polyurethane foam, referring to universal clamps used not only to fix drywall. Polyurethane foam is more often used to fix small fragments of plasterboard, when ennobling door and window slopes, or in combination with gypsum glue for filling large voids and better adhesion of sheets on walls with large curvature.

Less commonly used polymer adhesive compositions- liquid Nails. The use of such glue is justified only in cases of mounting small fragments on a reliable and even base. Liquid nails do not make it possible to correct the position of the sheet relative to the base surface. Dowel screws are sometimes used as auxiliary fasteners. They additionally attract GKL with the main use of the adhesive materials listed above. Instead of dowels, you can take black self-tapping screws of the required length with a base surface made of wood or loose porous building materials (shell rock, aerated concrete, foam blocks).

Sheathing walls with drywall without a frame - pre-installation preparation

The use of glue allows you to create a plasterboard surface that is practically not inferior in quality to that when installing the GKL on the crate. To work, you will need the following tools and materials:

• aluminum rule;
• bubble level;
• thread (fishing line);
• a set of spatulas;
• drill equipped with a mixer;
• container for the preparation of glue;
• wide paint brush;
• even wall (12.5 mm thick) plasterboard sheets (regular or moisture resistant);
• gypsum glue for plasterboard;
• primer.

When you have stocked up with everything you need, we proceed to surface preparation. Gypsum adhesive adheres perfectly to any building and finishing materials(various bricks, classic and porous concrete, cement-sand and lime plaster). The main requirement for high-quality adhesion of the adhesive to the base is the absence of dust and many unreliably holding areas. The latter are removed, after which the wall is primed. Before priming, we recommend using a hammer or a perforator to knock down areas of masonry material or plaster (if any) that sharply protrude above the common surface. This will facilitate the work and significantly reduce the consumption of glue.

For cooking adhesive solution pour water into a container (plastic bucket) at the rate of 1 liter per 1.6-1.7 kg of dry mix (this is according to the instructions). It is easier to do this: pour water a little more than a third of the bucket, gradually pour the dry mixture into it. When a slide of dry glue appears above the surface of the water, mix with a mixer. If the resulting mass does not leave a depression after the rotary mixer is removed, add the dry mix. If areas of unwetted solution remain with thorough mixing, and the mixer rotates with a load, add water.

How to attach GKL to gypsum glue - step by step algorithm

Having selected and prepared one of the walls for work, first "probe" its relief and deviation from the vertical with the rule and level, during which a "picture" will be formed, giving an idea of ​​where a larger and where a minimum layer of glue is needed. Then you need to decide on the general direction of the future drywall surface. To do this, it is convenient to pull a thread along the bottom (5-7 cm above the floor) along the wall, which will be a guideline for installing the outer surface of the sheets.

The thread is stretched taking into account the surface relief so that the installed sheet does not rest against the existing protrusions of the base wall.

If the wall is not very curved ("walks" no more than 3 cm within the area of ​​the fixed sheet), installation is carried out without first installing additional supports. In the presence of significant concavities, strips or squares of GKL scraps are pre-glued, which remained after cutting the sheets. If there are none or few, you will have to sacrifice a whole sheet for this, cutting it into the necessary substrates. When the glue that fixes the lining trimming the wall hardens, we proceed to gluing whole (or cut to the desired size) sheets.

Gypsum glue is applied to the base surface over the entire area of ​​​​the installed GKL. Applying mortar to drywall is inconvenient. First, it greatly increases its mass, which complicates its movement. Secondly, by forming slides of glue on the wall, it is easier to control their required size and the degree of protrusion above the common surface. Glue is applied arbitrarily, but evenly and in such a way that the fourth or fifth part of the sheet is glued. In the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe plinth and the intended fastening of attachments, it is more expedient to make the adhesive pad solid. Now that the adhesive mass is already on the wall, we do the following:

1. 1. We put stops up to 10 mm thick under the GCR installation site on the floor (after the glue has hardened, the linings are pulled out and a deformation gap is formed between the drywall and the floor).
2. 2. We start a sheet tilted up from the wall by a stretched orientation thread and gradually completely lean the drywall against the wall.
3. 3. If the sheet to be installed is even slightly stuck to the adhesive, it will no longer fall, so you can release it and analyze the position and possible actions to correct it.
4. 4. We begin to gradually press the drywall into the glue. First we expose the bottom along the thread, then under constant control levels and rules, we seat the entire sheet in the intended place. Drywall is moved to the base surface with palm strokes or a rubber mallet.
5. 5. Pressing drywall? it is important not to overdo it. It is problematic to return the plots planted deeper than the laid one. Often for this you have to "tear off" the entire sheet and expose it again.
6. 6. In the same sequence, the next GKL is installed nearby. Here it is important to control the formation of a beautiful seam between the sheets and their being in the same plane.

The rest of the walls are also closed, after which further finishing is carried out on the surface, which is no different from that on drywall, which was fixed on a frame made of profiles.

Mounting on polyurethane foam – simple and fast

Mounting foam is universal construction adhesive and sealant. Polyurethane material adheres securely to almost all surfaces. This property of building foam is sometimes used for local installation of gypsum boards. How to fasten drywall to a wall without profiles using polyurethane foam?

It is necessary to apply on a fragment cut to size sheet material foam in strips or dots (taking into account leaving room for its expansion) and firmly attach to the base surface. The desired position of the GKL fragment is regulated by dowel screws or self-tapping screws. They will not allow drywall to move under the pressure of expanding polyurethane. After 2-3 hours, the drywall is securely fixed and ready for subsequent finishing.

More and more builders prefer to use drywall instead of other materials. After all, it is easy to work with this material, and with its help they perform a wide range of tasks. Thanks to the GKL, even the most crooked walls are able to become perfectly even without cracks and drops. And create one or multilevel ceiling won't be a big deal. Many designers turn to drywall to create unique interiors With decorative niches and arches.

Installation of drywall on the wall in a frame way

An indisputable plus of GKL is its versatility, which was mentioned above. In addition, drywall does not crumble over time, with correct operation no cracks or irregularities occur.

Sheets of drywall will help to realize any design idea

Another important argument is that drywall is suitable for holding pipes, cables and wires in the voids of the structure. Even when we are talking about sheathing water pipes or about rooms with high humidity, then GKL with moisture-resistant properties can help here.

We also note the environmental friendliness of this material. Neither gypsum nor cardboard emit harmful substances during operation.

Tool preparation

Having conceived the installation of GKL on the walls, first prepare all the components. Remember that only right technology laying will create high-quality walls.

Choose drywall according to the place of application. In places with high humidity, GKLV will do just fine. And in rooms where flammable products are stored, refractory GKLO is suitable. The more GKL properties, the more expensive it is. But use standard sheets in unintended conditions for it is fraught with damage to coatings.

In addition to the GKL sheets themselves, you will need a profile of several types and accessories - dowels, self-tapping screws, etc. List of tools:

• Laser level or conventional analogue with threads;
• Roulette, markers, construction knife;
• Scissors for metal;
• Perforator or drill (professionals use a gas gun to quickly mount all guides to the walls);
• Screwdriver;
• cutter;
• Spatula for sealing seams.

This is what the main set of tools looks like

The most time-consuming process is the installation of a wall frame for gypsum boards. Here, the correct technology for laying the profile according to the markup is important.

If you are faced with the question of choosing a frame made of galvanized steel or wood, then we immediately notice that the use of wood implies risks. They lie in the fact that the tree itself is a very unpredictable building material. It does not have durability, is prone to rotting and deterioration in high humidity.

When working with concrete and brick surfaces, dowels 40 millimeters long are used. In cases where the frame is attached to more soft materials, it is recommended to use long dowels (80 millimeters). When cladding walls made of wood, you can safely use self-tapping screws.

Making markup

Markup technology requires focus and correct use tool. The best assistant here is the laser level. But it is irrational to purchase such expensive equipment for one-time laying of gypsum boards on the wall. Therefore, markup often occurs using the usual level and additional components.

Thanks to laser level professionals make markings in minutes

Having measured the required distance for conducting communications and laying insulation, a plumb line is fixed on the ceiling, closer to the corner of the wall. At the point where it touches the floor, a mark is made (the screw is screwed in). This procedure is done in each corner of the room. Then, to facilitate the marking process, they stretch the thread between the horizontal points. After transferring the lines to the ceiling and floor, the threads are removed. Now you can start installing the profile.

When marking up, remember that the wider the indentation from the base of the wall, the more the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room is “eaten up”. A profile is mounted along this line, and plasterboard, putty and final coating will increase the thickness by another 1.5-2 centimeters. But the minimum indent should still be at least four centimeters. Apply the drawing so that it is not erased after several careless movements along the lines.

Surface marking

Installing the frame

The profile installation technology is simple and requires only correct execution all steps. The rails are fixed with dowels to the ceiling and floor, it is recommended to use sealing tape. Galvanized steel is cut with metal shears.

Next, mark the places where the rack profiles will be installed. They are mounted at a distance of 40-60 centimeters (measured from the center of the previous profile). This will allow the installation of drywall joints directly in the center of the profile.

If you plan to mount heavy objects on the wall (kitchen cabinets, shelves, plasma tv), then it is recommended to install the profile at intervals of 40 centimeters with the device of horizontal jumpers in the places of future fastening. This will make further installation easier. attachments and prevent tearing of fasteners from the walls.

Rack profiles are carefully inserted first into the lower guides, and then into the upper ones according to the given markings. After that, the racks are attached to the wall with hangers.

The process of assembling a metal frame for sheathing

Horizontal profiles are needed in order to fix the drywall joints and give greater rigidity in places where attachments are to be installed. After fixing all the elements, the frame is ready for final stage wall mounting.

Further technology involves conducting communications and laying insulation. You can do without wall insulation, but as practice shows, this helps not only to keep warm, but also to create better sound insulation of the room.

Wall cladding and preparation for finishing

The final stage involves the installation of drywall on the wall. Starting cutting GKL, remember the fragility of the material. cutting upper layer cardboard on one side and not completely cut on the other, the sheet is placed on the edge of the support and smoothly split. After that, the sheet is turned over, the cardboard is cut and broken to the end. To process such edges, a planer for plasterboard is used, but you can do without it, working with a construction knife.

Joint processing

The sheets are fastened with self-tapping screws at the joints with vertical and transverse rails. The sheets are staggered, placing a short sheet of drywall in each row either from above or from below. The sheets are joined strictly in the center of the guide, avoiding sagging. Each GKL is screwed to the frame along the edges and in the center at a distance of 40-60 cm. If the sheets have a straight edge, then it is recommended to make a chamfer at the vertical joints. This will allow you to better putty the joints.

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If sockets or switches are supposed to be placed on such a wall, then they need to be taken care of in advance. Conclusions for sockets and lamps are marked and cut out before mounting on the wall. Then it will be difficult to do, you can ruin the sheet.

Metal corner protects walls from dents after impacts

After completing the wall sheathing, proceed to prepare the surface for applying the finish coat. All joints are carefully puttied and glued with a special reinforced mesh. Such a mesh will bind the putty material and securely fasten the joints.

External and internal corners the walls are reinforced with corners to stiffen and prevent crumbling of the plasterboard.

Before you start puttying for painting or wallpapering, it makes sense to prime the new walls. The primer will help even out the absorbent properties of the surface, prevent the appearance of microflora and improve adhesion to wallpaper or paint.

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