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Installation of drywall on the walls - frame method. How to make a drywall wall with your own hands

Drywall is increasingly used in interior decoration. Walls and ceilings are remarkably aligned with this building material, arches and partitions are created. Using GKL, if you do not save money, you will significantly benefit in the speed of repairs and the quality of surface leveling. Drywall is a material that can be used to finish almost any cladding.

Disadvantages of drywall

GKL also has disadvantages that do not allow it to become the undisputed leader in the building materials market. The disadvantages of drywall are as follows:

• ceiling and can be equipped in fairly dry rooms (the ability of moisture-resistant panels to resist moisture is rather doubtful);
• after installing the GKL on the ceiling and walls, the room becomes lower and narrower, which is not so noticeable in spacious and high rooms, but is critical for small rooms with low ceilings;
• drywall is far from a durable building material (although reverse side medals of this indicator is the ease of its processing).

Nevertheless, insulation can be placed in the space of the crate on which the sheets are attached, and various communications can be hidden under the plasterboard lining.

After weighing the pros and cons, you can choose the building material that best suits your requirements, but if you decide, then in order to get a quality result, you need to follow the recommendations that will be given below.

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Frameless GKL fastening technology

Method without the use of metal or wooden crate just useful for the repair of small rooms. In this case, the area loss will be minimal. True, panels can be installed on walls that do not require or almost do not require preliminary alignment.

The surfaces themselves for gluing with plasterboard panels are prepared as follows.

Figure 1. Scheme of the U-shaped suspension device.

1. All objects and electrical wiring connectors are removed from the repaired surface.
2. The walls are cleared of old finish, including paints, as adhesive compositions don't interact well with her.
3. The plane and verticality of the walls are checked by the level and the rule. Noticeable protrusions are knocked off (with a chisel, a construction hammer, a chisel or a perforator). The cavities are sealed with a solution after cleaning the surface of dust and moistening it.
4. The walls are impregnated with a primer, which will improve the adhesion of surfaces.
5. After the impregnation has dried, a gypsum putty for plasterboard or plasterboard glue is applied to the contact side of the drywall. The putty is used on walls with small irregularities, and the adhesive composition is used for level differences up to 4-5 cm. It should be emphasized that the irregularities should not be large in area (their dimensions should not exceed 20 x 20 cm). Mixtures for gluing GKL are applied along the perimeter of the slab and in several strips along its vertical. Sometimes the glue is laid on the sheet with "cakes" with a diameter of 10 cm and a height of 3-5 cm every 20-25 cm.
6. Laying starts from one of the corners of the room.
7. The sheet is pressed against the wall. Its position is checked by plumb and level. You can fix the plate by clicking on it in right place with the palm of your hand or by lightly tapping with a rubber mallet.

You can improve the quality of adhesion of drywall to the wall by attaching a plastic reinforcing mesh to the latter. It is attached to the wall with dowel-nails every 25-30 cm. After that, a thick adhesive mixture is applied to the primed surface with a brush or roller, and the mesh is pressed into it with a spatula.

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Installation of drywall on the frame

Figure 2. Scheme of fastening the GKL to the crate.

Frame technology for mounting GKL is more common. Wooden bars are sometimes used as a crate, but metal profiles serve as the main material for the frame. With their help (of course, taking into account the losses in the space of the room), you can level any walls. For attaching profiles to the surface and adjusting their position, there are U-shaped suspensions (Fig. 1).

Guide profiles are attached to the ceiling and floor. Their position relative to each other is checked by a plumb line. Profiles must be in the same vertical plane. CW profiles are installed in the guide profiles. They must be mounted strictly vertically. The distance between the centers of neighboring CWs should be 60 cm. With this step, U-shaped pieces are also attached to the wall. The last vertical profile is attached 20 cm from the corner. The bottom row of U-shaped suspensions is 30 cm from the floor. The vertical step between them is 60 cm. You can use horizontal jumpers to strengthen the frame. Of course, the profile is installed along the perimeter of the window and doorways. The frame elements are connected with self-tapping screws 3 x 9.5.

On fig. 2 shows how the GCR is attached to the crate. Please note that the height of the walls here is greater than the length of the drywall sheet.

In this case, the horizontal joints of sheets in adjacent rows should not be at the same level, as this will weaken the wall.

Figure 3. Scheme of mounting joints drywall sheets.

In addition, the joints of the plasterboard should not coincide with the perimeter lines of window and door openings. They must be located at a distance of at least 30 cm from the latter (in Fig. 3, the red dotted line marks the lines along which GKL joints cannot be arranged). It must be added that when changing the dimensions of the drywall inserts, it is necessary to make adjustments to the installation of the profiles.

GKL is easy to process, so it can be cut with a construction knife or a hacksaw. After cutting, the edge of the sheet is processed with a bar covered with sandpaper. It must be sanded so that when the sheets are joined, the seam looks like an expanding to outside grooves (then it will be easier to putty).

As already mentioned, drywall is a fragile material. Its installation must be approached responsibly:

• it is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws 3 x 25;
• fasteners must be screwed strictly perpendicular to the sheet of building material;
• the heads of the self-tapping screws should be somewhat recessed into it, at the same time try not to break through the outer cardboard layer;
• if the screw “failed”, step back 5 cm and screw in another;
• self-tapping screws are screwed into the gypsum board in increments of no more than 25 cm in the central part of the panel and no more than 15 cm along the edges of the sheet;
• it is better not to screw the screws near the corners, the minimum distance from the corner to the nearest self-tapping screw should be 5 cm;
• the distance from the screwing point of the fastener to the edge of the drywall should not be less than 1 cm.

At the moment, drywall installation is one of the most economical solutions for repairs in an apartment or private house. With the help of this building material, you can easily get rid of defects in walls or ceilings, achieving a perfectly even surface. It is also effective as a building material, from which arches, boxes for masking communications and other decorative elements can be made. In this article, we will consider the technology of its fastening to walls and ceilings.

Features of the material and its application

First, let's look at what happens this building material and what features it has. Drywall consists of three layers: two outer (made of special cardboard) and an inner (made of gypsum with additives). The weight of a product of standard sizes can reach 30 kg. Depending on what additives are used in the production (hereinafter - GKL, gypsum boards), there are:

• Normal GKL,
• fire-resistant - GKLO,
• moisture resistant - GKLV.

The most widespread are ordinary sheets, which are used when working on the walls and ceiling of the repaired premises. Moreover, for different elements, a material of its own thickness is suitable. For example, fixing drywall to the ceiling involves the use of building materials with a thickness of 9-9.5 mm, for walls - 12.5 mm, for decorative elements(arches, etc.) - 6 mm. The easiest way to install drywall walls - fastening can be done even by one person. Read about how to do this in this article.

Any mounting technology involves the use of special mounting profiles. It is possible to identify several certain types profiles:

• ceiling
• wall
• rack
• guides.

As a rule, the maximum length of such profiles does not exceed 4 m.

Preparatory work

Preparation for the installation of sheets is a crucial stage of work, on which the future of the planned repair depends. Preparatory work include the selection of the tool required for installation procedures, as well as an assessment of the work surface on which the sheets will be mounted.

Mounting tool

Since the installation of drywall sheets requires extreme precision, among the tools necessary are such items as a level, tracer, square, tape measure, pencil. Such a set will allow you to accurately determine the places for fastening the profile. We will also need a puncher, metal shears, a special plane and a drywall knife, a screwdriver (how to fix drywall without such a convenient tool? Read about it) - they will allow you to securely fix and refine the finish surface.

Assessment of the state of the working surface

Before starting the cladding, regardless of which surface it is mounted on, a thorough inspection of the plane is carried out. Of great importance is the composition of the building material from which the walls or ceiling are made, as well as the humidity of the air, which will subsequently be established in the room. After assessing the situation, a specific type of finish and suitable fasteners are selected. For residential areas, standard materials are best suited, for bathrooms or basements that differ high humidity air - moisture resistant. For the arch you need to choose a special - arched material!

Selection of fasteners

When mounting on a stone surface (concrete, brick, etc.), fasteners such as dowels are used (usually for such types of work their length reaches 40 mm, and their diameter is 6 mm). For fastening on surfaces made of less dense materials (for example, silicate blocks, etc.), drywall installation is carried out using dowels with a large diameter and length (8 by 80 mm). Self-tapping screws are used for wood surfaces.

Preparation of the work surface for the installation of drywall

At this stage, the main work is to measure the parameters of the base surface for installing the structure, on which the sheets will subsequently be attached, as well as marking it for the mounting hanger.

Ceiling markings

Regardless of whether we are going to make a plasterboard ceiling or a wall, before fixing it is necessary to carefully mark the surface, prepare it for installing the profile. Considering that ceilings are not always perfectly horizontal (moreover, builders often lay floor slabs with an inclination), it is necessary first of all to find the lowest corner of the ceiling. To do this, using a tape measure, the distance from each corner of the ceiling to the floor is measured (you can simply by level). Having decided on the lowest point of the ceiling, you can proceed to further work. By the way, it is the lower part of the ceiling that will serve as the starting point when lowering the ceiling from plasterboard sheets. When you have decided on the height of the ceiling, it's time to mount the profile around the perimeter (as a rule, UD 27 is preferred, but for different rooms it is advisable to use a profile of a different size) at a distance of at least 4 cm from the base ceiling. After that, you can start marking under the mounting suspension.

Wall marking

The marking of the wall is carried out in the same way as the ceiling. There are only a few nuances: the perimeter profile is set at a distance of at least 5 centimeters from the wall, and the distance between the marking lines is not 40 (as for the ceiling), but 60 centimeters. As for the placement of marks for mounting the mounting suspension, it is the same as for the ceiling. If you plan to make a niche in the wall, then this must be taken into account already when marking the wall.

Mounting hangers and profile

Drywall installation technology involves the use of mounting hangers (such as ES or others), as well as spokes with a swivel hanger and an eye. We will consider ES suspensions. We will assume that we have already installed all the suspensions on the ceiling (wall) at strictly marked points. Using scissors for metal, we shorten the CD profile along the length of the lines drawn on the ceiling, but shorter by about 10 mm. These profiles are inserted into the UD profile previously installed around the perimeter and are oriented inside the ES mounting hangers. It is important here to achieve precise horizontal position CD profiles. Use the level to correct. We fix the CD profile with small metal screws, bend the excess edge of the ES suspension. To strengthen the base, you can additionally connect our parallel CD profiles with crab fasteners, using pieces of the CD profile specially cut for this (40 and 60 centimeters long - for the ceiling and wall, respectively).

If the parameters of the room are such that standard sizes sheets do not fit - you need to cut it to give it the necessary parameters. For this, a knife is used, the edges of the cut are additionally processed with a special planer. It should be understood that the location of the CD profile on the surface should be such that all edges of the drywall sheets fall on the profile. This is one of the most important fasteners, so this recommendation should not be neglected. So, we can say that the frame is ready.

GKL installation

Once again, we check the parameters of the frame for the installation of drywall sheets. After that, we fasten them with self-tapping screws for metal with a length of 25 mm. At the same time, you must adhere to simple rule: the distance between the fasteners is no more than 25 centimeters, and the self-tapping screw must be screwed in perfectly (the hat does not protrude and is not very deep in finishing material). Next, puttying is carried out to give the seams and places of screwing in screws a perfectly even look. Used for putty special formulations, as well as a serrated film, which improves the adhesion properties of putty and cladding. Only after that can we say that the sheets are finally installed and ready for subsequent decoration. Also for wet rooms, laying tiles on drywall is relevant, which we described in detail.

How much will it cost for third-party specialists?

Name of works	The cost of work for 1 m2, rub.	The cost of materials for 1 m2, rub.	Total, rub.
Drywall partitions
1 layer on each side	420	400	820
with 2 layers on each side	520	530	1050
Wall cladding with plasterboard
in 1 layer on a metal frame	300	300	600
in 2 layers on a metal frame	350	380	730
Plasterboard ceilings
in 1 layer, on a metal frame	420	300	720
in 2 layers, on a metal frame	500	370	870

Did you decide on your own make repairs in your apartment or country house. It's time to start thinking about materials. GKL is very well suited for finishing. But the question arises - how to mount drywall on the wall? And in general, is it advisable to choose this material in your case? To begin with, we will deal with the advantages and disadvantages of drywall sheets.

Advantages and disadvantages of plasterboard wall cladding

The very first thing worth mentioning is the versatility and ease of installation. Even if you have never had experience with drywall, you can easily lay drywall on the wall with your own hands. This material can even be bent, which will please those who want not only to decorate the walls, but to create graceful shapes and stunning room design.

Gypsorkaton has a lot of advantages:

• Price. Repair will not be expensive, since drywall is a fairly cheap material. It also does not require special expensive tools. The exception is, which will significantly speed up the progress of work, will allow you to create the perfect edge for joining. But it will cost no more than 1000 rubles.
• Convenience not only in installation, but also transportation (light weight allows you to transport it even to one person without assistance)
• Sheets can not only be bent by wetting with water, but also cut along or across. Both of these qualities allow you to give drywall almost any shape.
• The components of the sheet are plaster and cardboard. Therefore, for environment because it is completely natural
• Using given material, you get excellent sound and heat insulation. This quality is invaluable high-rise buildings with thin walls and noisy neighbors
• You can mount it on a wall with little curvature by simply placing it on the adhesive. If the wall has a serious unevenness, then a frame made of a metal profile or wood is used.

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What are the disadvantages of drywall? The only serious one is the fear of moisture. But on sale there are many varieties of drywall, which should be chosen based on where the installation will be carried out, including moisture resistant drywall. Also, a special water-repellent primer will help fight moisture.

What kind of GKL sheet should you choose? When decorating bedrooms or a living room, you should not bother and buy ordinary sheets, while you will save money. If you have to mount the sheathing in the kitchen or in the bathroom, then you need more expensive moisture-resistant drywall sheets.

How to lay drywall on wood and metal frames

Which framework is best?

If you want to correct defects and curvature of the walls, making them perfectly even, then, in addition to the drywall itself, you should take care of the frame. There are two options - metal and wood. Previously, everything was done only on a wooden frame, wooden beams were affordable, and this played an important role. Later they were supplanted metallic profile, mainly galvanized, which, despite the higher price category, has gained popularity due to its greater reliability.

Among the shortcomings of the tree, we also note the fear of moisture and an unpredictable reaction after the final drying.

Wooden frame installation

If you have extra well-dried bars at hand, the frame can be assembled from them. It's much cheaper.

Such a frame can be erected on both wooden and concrete wall. Fastening to wood is done using ordinary nails or self-tapping screws with a large pitch, to concrete - already with the help of dowels.

Let's figure out in order how to mount it correctly wooden frame and drywall on the walls. First you need a thorough preparation of the surface of the wall. Having cleaned it of the remnants of wallpaper and other things, we treat it with a primer with antiseptic properties. Having received a clean and dried surface, we proceed to the installation process itself.

To carry out the work you will need:

• Fasteners
• Wooden bars
• Level
• Hacksaw
• Roulette

The working process:

1. We start with markup. On all surfaces of the room (walls, ceiling, floor, as well as corners), using a tape measure, we mark the attachment points for the guide rails. The distance between the fasteners must be equal to 200 mm;
2. We saw off the bars of the required size, fix them at the marked points, the control of the correct position is carried out by level;
3. First, it is worth fixing the bars on the ceiling, then on the floor, and at the end, making sure that everything converges, fix the elements on the wall. Since it is on the vertical guide rails that all the main load is distributed, the fastening must be of high quality and reliable. Instead of self-tapping screws, you can also use screws and metal corners.

Important! The distance from one rack to another cannot exceed 600 mm.

Electrical wiring should be hidden in special corrugated protective shells.

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Installation of a metal frame

Now let's figure out how to properly put drywall on the wall, using a metal frame already. For this purpose, a galvanized profile is most often used. Compared to wood, it has much greater strength and reliability, is not afraid of moisture and speeds up installation.

As with the tree, the whole process starts with markup. First, we check the height difference on the wall with a level. These irregularities should, if possible, be eliminated and taken into account when marking.

1. Fixing the profile. You will need two for each wall. The first is fixed from above along the wall, stepping back from the ceiling by 800-100 mm. The second is parallel to the first on the floor;
2. If you need to even out the unevenness, place an element under the profile desired thickness, which will give rigidity;
3. In order to be able to mount the rack elements, we install the profile on the floor so that the groove is directed upwards, and the groove of the profile under the ceiling, on the contrary, is downwards;
4. Vertical guides are attached to the wall at the corners with screws or dowels, the indent does not exceed 400 mm;
5. In places where vertical racks will pass, suspensions are attached to the wall every 400-500 mm;
6. Then the vertical posts are inserted into the grooves of the upper and lower horizontal profiles and must be fixed;
7. At the same time, the vertical profile is attached to the suspensions, after checking everything in terms of level.

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Thermal insulation of walls when laying drywall

Drywall has good thermal insulation properties, but by itself it will not cope. Before you start laying the GKL on the frame, you need to take care of the heat-insulating materials.

The most commonly used boards are expanded polystyrene and mineral wool. The thickness of the thermal insulation depends on the width of the profile ribs or frame bars.

In the intervals between the vertical posts, segments of material for thermal insulation are laid. When all voids are closed, a vapor barrier membrane is attached over the thermal insulation. A special tape is glued at the joints of the film.

Installation of drywall on the frame

Having assembled the frame and laid the thermal insulation, we come to final stage. Now is the time to figure out how to properly lay drywall on the walls.

First, we calculate how many drywall sheets are required, based on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls. But it costs about 10-20% more to take, the material consumption largely depends on the experience of the installer.

Before starting work, transfer everything to paper, this stage allows you to quickly navigate and pre-cut the sheets into the necessary parts. Then the drywall is attached to the frame, with the seams between the sheets should be located in the middle of the vertical profile, and the horizontal bar at the back should be in the middle of the sheet. This will provide the strongest and most durable construction.

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Bonding drywall to walls

Usually drywall sheets are attached to the frame, but this reduces the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, since the gap between the real and false walls is quite large. It has great importance in rooms with a small area, where every centimeter is important. Then they use the technique of frameless wall cladding, in other words, putting drywall on glue.

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Depending on the degree of curvature of the wall surface, different techniques. If it does not exceed 20 mm, then use Perflix glue, applying it in small slides, and press the drywall with your hands against the wall.

If the unevenness is more than 50 mm, only narrow strips of drywall are put on the glue, on which, after drying, using a special gypsum-based putty, the sheets themselves are attached. Everything happens in the following order:

1. We clean the wall from the remnants of the past repair. We make markings, level and plumb line will help you with this;
2. We process the surface with a primer, which must be chosen based on the characteristics of this wall;
3. After drying, glue is applied to the drywall with slides, the distance between the slides is about 20-30 cm;
4. We press the sheet against the wall, tap it with a rubberized mallet.

That's all, you glued the drywall to the wall with your own hands, it remains only to wait for it to dry completely.

The interior decoration of the room begins with plastering the walls and ceiling or installing drywall. Installation of drywall, as an alternative to plastering walls, guarantees the formation of a perfectly flat surface, which is especially true if the irregularities are too large for leveling with plaster.

At the same time, drywall - although there is a special moisture resistant one - is afraid of dampness, leaks, and is not designed for heavy loads (many bookshelves better not hang). The editors of the publication understand all the intricacies of the drywall installation process.

Installation of drywall on walls: technology

Advantages:

1. work is dry and less dusty;
2. GKL - breathable and heat-retaining coating;
3. installation of a plasterboard wall or ceiling allows you to create structures various forms- a decorative basis for fine finishing and finishing rooms with an unusual layout (attic).

Exist various ways GKL installation, the installation procedure for each is slightly different. One of the principles of classifying methods is crate. Its presence or absence, from what and how to make the crate - all this affects the material and labor costs for leveling the walls.

IMPORTANT! Mounting drywall using metal structures is the most common method. The steel profile guarantees the strength of the frame. Errors in the installation of the batten are one of the causes of cracks in the finish and can lead to the dismantling of drywall. Therefore, it is very important to set the profiles correctly.

First, let's decide what is needed to build a wall of materials and what tools to work with.

IMPORTANT! Most often, a profile of two main sizes is used: D - to form a plane on which the GKL will be fixed; W - to build a common wall frame.

Installation of drywall on walls using metal profiles

Marking for the frame

With the help of a paint cord, a line is marked on the floor, which will be the border of the frame. With the help of a plumb line, level and cord pencil, the line is transferred to the ceiling. Strictly vertical lines are marked on the walls along which the racks will be mounted. The step between them must be observed so that the joints of the GKL sheets during installation fall in the middle of the rack profiles. Usually the pitch between the axes of the profiles is 600 mm.

Mounting guides

Step 1 - Mounting the frame for fixing the plasterboard

The horizontal guides of the profile from the side that will be adjacent to the base are pasted over with a special sealant - a tape that will provide sound insulation. Then, holes are drilled in the bases with a puncher, into which dowels are inserted, and the profile with insulation is attached to them with self-tapping screws.

In order for the guides to hold the GKL firmly, a pitch of 500-1000 mm is selected between the screws, but one section of the profile must be attached to the base in at least three places.

Suspension mount

Along the vertical lines marked on the walls, like the guides, hangers are attached, which will additionally provide structural rigidity.

Mounting racks

According to the markings on the walls, vertical racks are inserted into the horizontal rails. It must be remembered that the open side of the rack should be located sideways or look at the wall. First, the rack is inserted into the rail on the floor, then on the ceiling. The rack is attached with screws to the guides and to the suspensions.

Drywall installation

Correct installation GKL sheets should be carried out by several people. Two hold the sheet, and the third fastens it to the profile with self-tapping screws. Fastening starts from above, the distance between the screws is not more than 25 cm. The seams between the sheets should not press each other, so they are mounted with an offset. Installation of columns and others complex elements is made according to the same principles: the desired shape is achieved due to the incision of the profile and the GKL sheet.

Step 5 - Fastening the GKL to the frame using self-tapping screws and a screwdriver

Cutting holes for sockets and switches

Scheme 1 - GKL installation using metal profiles: one of the possible options

The use of wooden crates is used less often - the tree is afraid of moisture. Installation instructions for wooden rails practically do not differ from the installation of a metal profile. The frame is marked, then they are attached to the walls with dowels wooden racks and spacers. Then they check how even the frame is. GKL sheets are attached in the same way as on the profile: the joints should fall into the center of the rails.

How to stick drywall?

Step 6 - GKL can be fixed on a flat surface using special glue

Installation of GKL on glue - the most fast way, but applicable only on a relatively flat surface - with differences of no more than 20 mm. This method is the most sparing to the space of the room - it takes up the least space, the GKL sheets fit snugly against the wall. The marked sheets are attached to the cleaned primed surface of the walls or to 10-centimeter plasterboard strips (on Perlfix glue). To do this, the drywall sheets themselves also need to be primed.

Step 7 - You can fix the drywall after the wires and noise insulation are laid

Depending on the surface relief, the adhesive is applied evenly along the perimeter and along the middle of the sheet using a notched trowel or small cakes with any suitable trowel.

IMPORTANT! For greater reliability, after the glue has hardened, the GKL sheets can be fixed with dowel-nails.

IMPORTANT! Gluing drywall is carried out after careful marking, identifying bumps and bulges, determining a single level at which all sheets will be leveled.

There are different options for how to stick drywall, in addition to that described above. And they are distinguished not only by technology, but also by the adhesive material. For example, some use a drywall sticker on mounting foam. The instructions for mounting on foam are somewhat different than working with glue. Here, the GKL sheets are screwed to the wall with long screws, after which mounting foam is pumped under it through the holes in the sheet.

Do-it-yourself drywall installation: step-by-step video instructions

Tools, materials and accessories for installation

Scheme 2 - Tools for mounting GKL

Depending on the installation method, you may need:

• For marking: level, plumb line, pencil, paint cord, tape measure. It is easy to mark up using a laser plane builder.
• For installation: knife, metal shears, screwdriver, puncher, hammer, spatulas, stepladder, devices for cutting excess material from the edges, cutting holes.
• Materials and components: GKL, which has the necessary parameters (for example, moisture resistant); steel profiles: rails and racks, metal hangers and connectors for their fastening, wooden slats, dowels, self-tapping screws, screws, washers, glue, foam.
• It is convenient to use a mounting gun (gas construction gun SPIT Pulsa 700P) for fastening the gypsum board with dowel-nails.

Installation secrets: how to cut drywall?

It is necessary to cut the GKL special knife. How to cut the sheet evenly: use a long rail, cut the paper along it, press on one side of the sheet (the gypsum core will break) and cut the bottom layer of paper with a knife.

Drywall cutting in large volumes can be done with a special cutter. The edge of the cut sheets should be made at an angle to increase the area of ​​​​the seams, which will be puttied in the future. To do this, a line is marked at a distance of 5 mm from the edge and excess material is cut obliquely.

Drywall insulation

Often rooms require insulation, especially for a balcony or loggia. As a heater under the GKL, glass wool or mineral wool is usually used. Work with insulation is carried out at the stage when the crate is installed, but the sheets are not yet attached.

Wiring under drywall

Wiring under drywall must be completed before its installation and insulation. The wiring is installed when the crate is installed. It is necessary to lay wires behind drywall in a metal hose or corrugation made of non-combustible plastic. Full electrical wiring is carried out on the walls and ceiling.

When installing GKL sheets, holes are cut out for socket boxes and wiring leading to the fixtures. Corresponding wires are pulled through the holes.

IMPORTANT! Socket boxes can be mounted immediately after the installation of the GKL, and the installation of sockets, switches, spotlights and chandeliers must wait until all finishing work is completed.

Drywall joints

Sealing joints is an important stage in the formation of a flat surface. It is necessary to properly seal the corners and joints of the gypsum board so that cracks do not appear on them over time. To do this, the joint is puttied, then a reinforcing tape for the joints is laid on top and another layer of putty is applied. At the outer corners of the doorway and window slope must be installed on the putty corner profiles. The places where the screws are screwed in are also puttied.

Step 10 - View after puttying all the seams and attachment points of the GKL

After the putty dries, all the places treated with it must be thoroughly passed with a grater. If the surface is not smooth enough, then it is necessary to completely putty the walls and, after drying, pass with a grater.

Finishing work with drywall

After carrying out the above manipulations, a pertinent question arises: how to prime the GKL and should it be primed? Definitely necessary. If the next step is Painting works water-based paint, then the primer can be done with paint diluted with water in a ratio of 3: 1.

Step 12 - Finished work after painting frame

The technology of working with other coatings, such as wallpaper or decorative plaster, requires the use of special primers recommended by manufacturers for the top coat. Do-it-yourself processing of a drywall surface is facilitated due to the fact that the coating is very even.

IMPORTANT! How to work with drywall - paint, plaster or wallpaper - can be found in the instructions for the selected finishing materials.

Tile on drywall: laying technology + video step by step instructions

special kind finishing- laying tiles on drywall. GCR is an undesirable base for tiles. But if it is used under a tile, then it should be a special moisture-resistant drywall, laid in two layers and primed several times. In addition, when mounting drywall under a tile, the step between the rack profiles needs to be done less.

drywall installation cost

GKL installation price:

• price in Moscow - an average of 300 rubles / sq.m;
• in Kyiv - from 65 UAH/sq.m.

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How to install drywall on the wall yourself - 4 stages of rough wall finishing

To date, drywall is one of the most popular types of materials intended for interior construction and interior decoration residential and commercial premises. However, not everyone knows how to properly mount drywall on walls, so in this article I want to pay more attention technical description this simple process.

Classification of drywall sheets

Gypsum board is a composite sheet finishing material that consists of two outer layers. thick cardboard, and an internal intermediate layer of mineral gypsum aggregate.

The composite structure of the sheet provides this material with high rigidity and sufficient strength, and the outer layer of cardboard forms a uniform matte surface, which can be considered an ideal basis for applying a finishing coating (acrylic paint, decorative plaster, wallpaper, etc.).

Depending on the raw materials and mineral components used, all drywall sheets can be conditionally divided into several types:

1. The usual drywall sheet for general construction works has the nomenclature name GKL. It is designed for interior decoration of ceilings and walls, as well as for the construction of light interior partitions in residential and office space with normal room temperature and relative air humidity not more than 70%. The outer cardboard covering of such sheets has grey colour, and the factory lettering is dark blue;
2. Moisture-resistant gypsum plasterboard with the nomenclature name GKLV is intended for finishing walls and ceilings indoors with normal temperatures and high humidity. To increase moisture resistance, the outer coating of such sheets is made of special impregnated cardboard, and antifungal additives with silicon particles are introduced into the gypsum aggregate. For visual distinction, the outer surface of the GKLV has a light green color, and the factory marking is applied in dark blue;

1. Fire-resistant plasterboard sheets have the nomenclature designation GKLO, and are characterized by increased resistance to short-term exposure to direct open flame or high temperature. Such qualities are achieved by introducing non-combustible reinforcing fibers into the composition of the gypsum core, and by impregnating the outer cardboard with a flame retardant composition. The outer coating of fire-resistant sheets has the usual gray color, and the factory lettering is applied in red;
2. Moisture-proof fire-resistant drywall is designated as GKLVO, and combines all at the same time specifications and operational qualities of GKLO and GKLV, respectively. Such material has a rather narrow scope, since its price is significantly higher than the cost of other types of drywall. In order not to be confused with other sheets, its surface is painted light green, and the letter factory marking is applied in red.

Despite the fact that GKLV is considered moisture resistant, it cannot withstand direct contact with water for a long time, so it cannot be installed outdoors, or used to finish wet rooms with direct water on the walls and ceiling (shower room, washing room or steam room in the bath ).
The same warning applies to GKLO: despite its fire resistance, I strongly do not recommend using this material in conditions of prolonged exposure to high temperatures or direct contact with an open flame.

The working process

Stage 1: selection and calculation of materials

The calculation of the required number of drywall sheets should be carried out based on the net area of ​​\u200b\u200ball the walls in the room. To calculate the net area of ​​each individual wall, you must first multiply its length by its height. Then, in the same way, calculate the area of ​​window and door openings on this wall (if any). After that, from total area walls must be subtracted from the resulting area of ​​the door and window openings, and get the net area of ​​the wall.

The table shows the technical characteristics of drywall sheets.

When calculating the amount of materials, it should be borne in mind that the width of any drywall sheet is always 1200 mm, and its standard length can be 2000 mm, 2500 mm, 2700 mm or 3000 mm. It should also be taken into account that in the process of work there are always trimmings, and some part of the material goes into marriage, therefore, when buying drywall and all components for its installation, you need to lay a small margin (5-8%).

Based on the classification of drywall sheets discussed in the previous section, when choosing specific type drywall, I advise you to adhere to the following recommendations:

1. For wall decoration in living and sleeping areas of a private house or apartment (bedroom, nursery, living room, corridor), you can use any of the above types of drywall. In the same time, I recommend using ordinary GCR for these purposes, since it has a lower cost;

1. When performing repairs in rooms with a high level of air humidity (toilet, bathroom, unheated attic or veranda), I advise you not to save money and buy a moisture-resistant drywall GKLV. In addition to the fact that it does not collapse under the influence of moisture, its surface is less susceptible to the formation and development of mold;
2. For the interior decoration of the walls of a home heating station, an autonomous boiler room, an electrical switchboard, and other rooms with a possible short-term increase in temperature or the appearance of an open flame, it is best to use fire-resistant GKLO. This material can also be used for outdoor decorative design stoves and fireplaces, provided that a non-combustible insulation made of mineral wool;
3. GKLVO is more intended for industrial use, but it can also be used in a private house. For example, it is well suited for lining a smoke channel in an unheated attic, or for lining walls around the furnace door of a sauna stove in a damp, cold dressing room;
4. To install drywall on a supporting frame, you will need to purchase a galvanized metal profile of two types, straight remote brackets, docking "crabs" and metal screws with a hat in the sweat;

1. The horizontal profile "UD" or "PNP" with a section of 28x27 mm is mounted one at the bottom, at the level of the finished floor, and the second at the top, under the very ceiling. The total length of the whips of such a profile should be equal to the double perimeter of the room;
2. Rack profile "CD" "PP" with a section of 27x60 mm is installed vertically from floor to ceiling over the entire wall area, with a step of 600 mm. To find out the total number of such a profile in meters for one wall, you need to divide its length by 0.4, and multiply by the height of the room;
3. When calculating the number of remote brackets, it should be assumed that each rack profile must be mounted on 4-5 brackets;
4. It is difficult to name the number of self-tapping screws offhand, so for a start you can purchase 300-500 pieces, and if necessary, buy more;
5. If you plan to sew walls using frameless technology, then for this you will need to buy a special construction adhesive for drywall. Its consumption per 1 m² of wall area can be viewed on the factory packaging.

The standard thickness of drywall sheets can be 6mm, 9.5mm or 12.5mm. Most thin sheets lend themselves well to bending in an arc, therefore they are used for the manufacture of curly interior details. Medium sheets with a thickness of 9.5 mm are light in weight, therefore they are used when sewing ceilings. For wall decoration, I recommend using sheets with a thickness of 12.5 mm, since a lot of weight is not critical for them, and they have the greatest strength.

Stage. 2: preparing tools for work

For installation work, you will need a standard set household tools, which should be in the household of any home master. Below I will give a list of them, but it will need to be adjusted independently, depending on which mounting method is more suitable for you.

1. To install a metal load-bearing frame you will need an electric puncher with a set of drills from 6 to 10 mm, a hacksaw or scissors for metal, a grinder with cutting discs for metal and cordless screwdriver;

1. If you opted for a wooden frame, then for its manufacture you will need the same tools, only instead of a grinder and a hacksaw for metal, you need to use an electric cut-off saw or a hand saw for wood;
2. When attaching drywall to the supporting frame, you will need to tighten a large number of self-tapping screws. To completely mechanize this process, I recommend using a special screwdriver nozzle, which automatically feeds the screws into the screw head;
3. For frameless installation of drywall on the wall, the adhesive solution will have to be prepared by hand, directly at the installation site. To do this, you will need a metal or plastic container with a volume of 10-12 liters, as well as a construction mixer or a nozzle on a drill for preparing dry building mixtures;

1. From hand tools you will need a sharp construction knife with interchangeable blades, a medium hammer, curly and flat screwdrivers, as well as a small hand planer for cutting the edges of the sheets.
2. From the measuring tools you will need a large square, a tape measure at least 5 m long, a laser or liquid building level, a construction cord, a rope plumb line and a thin marker or pencil;
3. To work at height, it is convenient to use an ordinary household stepladder. Its height should be such that a person can freely reach the ceiling with his half-bent arm..

If you prefer frameless installation of drywall to the wall with mounting foam, then I advise you to buy it in large metal cylinders, since it will be much cheaper in such a package. To work with such cylinders, you will need a special gun that allows you to accurately dose the supply and consumption of mounting foam.

Stage 3: production and installation of the supporting frame

Before starting work, you need to completely free the room from the furniture, and remove the old coating from the wall. If you plan to lay hidden electrical wiring, heating pipes or other communications behind drywall, then this must be done in advance, before mounting the supporting frame on the wall.

Next, I will talk about how to independently install the GKL on the wall with the installation of a metal frame. For those who find it more convenient to mount a wooden frame, I must say that it is made according to the same principle as a metal one, only instead of profiles, wooden bars with a section of at least 50x50 mm are used.

1. After preparing the surface of the walls, first of all, you need to mount the upper and lower horizontal guide profiles around the entire perimeter of the room;

1. The lower U-shaped profile "UD" must be laid on the floor, and fixed with self-tapping screws parallel to the wall, along a stretched building cord;
2. The upper U-shaped profile must be fixed in the same way around the entire perimeter to the ceiling. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the plumb line lowered from the longitudinal center line of the upper profile passes exactly through the longitudinal center line of the lower profile. This will allow in the future to install the plasterboard wall strictly vertically;
3. If the main walls in the room are not very curved, and the lower and upper horizontal profiles are fixed almost close to the wall, then the vertical rack profiles can also be attached directly to the walls;

1. If the walls in the room are curved, and the horizontal profiles are fixed at a large distance from the wall, then for fastening the vertical rack profiles, you will need to use U-shaped remote brackets;
2. To do this, starting from one of the corners, on the walls around the entire perimeter of the room, from floor to ceiling, you need to draw vertical straight lines with a step of exactly 600 mm between them;
3. In each corner of the room, and on each drawn line, 4-5 brackets must be fixed so that the distance from the bottom bracket to the floor, and the distance from the top bracket to the ceiling is 500 mm. The distance between two adjacent brackets should be about 800-1000 mm;
4. Cut the rack profile into the required number of identical segments, the length of which should be equal to the height of the room from the level of the finished floor to the ceiling;

1. Install each segment vertically between the legs of the U-shaped holders, bring the lower and upper ends inside the lower and upper horizontal profile, and fix it to its side walls with self-tapping screws;
2. Next, it must be leveled strictly vertically, and fixed to the side legs of each bracket with two self-tapping screws. Cut the protruding legs with a grinder or metal shears, flush with the front plane of the rack profile;
3. In the same way, you need to mount rack profiles around the perimeter of each door and window opening;
4. Having thus installed all the vertical racks, you need to tie them together with transverse horizontal jumpers from the same profile;

For mounting jumpers, it is convenient to use special “crab” connectors that allow you to join two identical profiles at right angles in the same plane; When installing horizontal jumpers, it should be assumed that the distance between their axes should be within 600-800 mm;

Stage 4: fixing drywall sheets

The technology of mounting drywall on walls is quite simple, however, given that the sheets are large in size and quite heavy, installation work It is more convenient to perform together with a partner. When buying material, it is better to choose such sheet sizes so that it can be installed vertically from floor to ceiling without transverse joints.

1. You need to start installing drywall on the walls from one of the corners of the room. From my experience, I can say that at first it is better to sew up those walls on which the window and front door are located;

1. each sheet must be cut in height to size in place so that it freely, but without gaps, enters the space between the base of the floor and the ceiling;
2. The first sheet can be rested with the bottom side on the floor, and installed in the very corner. At the same time, it is important to control the level so that it is installed strictly vertically in two planes, and its outer side edge runs exactly along the center line of the vertical profile;
3. After making sure that it is in its place, one person should hold it with his hands from displacement, and his partner should fix the drywall to the supporting frame with self-tapping screws in the sweat with a step of 160-210 mm between them;
4. First you need to wrap the screws into a vertical profile around the entire perimeter of the sheet, and then in several places in the middle, into horizontal transverse jumpers;

1. When tightening the self-tapping screws, it is necessary to set the force limiter on the screwdriver so that the cap does not destroy the drywall, and is recessed below the surface of the plate by no more than 1 mm;
2. The next sheet must be installed on the floor in the same way, and pressed with its side edge to the end of the first sheet. After that, make sure that it is installed strictly vertically, it must also be fixed with self-tapping screws;
3. When you reach a door or window opening, one person should put a whole sheet on the place where it should be installed, and his partner at the back of the sheet should draw a cutout for this opening;
4. Next, from this sheet, you need to cut a window opening along the drawn line, and fix it to the wall in exactly the same way. I would like to draw your attention to the fact that cleaning of windows and door slopes performed last, after sewing all the walls;

1. After the drywall is mounted, you need to putty all the fixing screws and joints between the sheets. So that in the future the joints do not disperse from vibration and temperature changes, in the process of puttying they must be reinforced with serpentine glass mesh;
2. After hardening and drying of the starting layer, the surface should be sanded with a medium-grained emery cloth (P80-P100), and if necessary, apply another finishing layer putties;
3. Finally, the surface should be sanded again with a finer sandpaper (P80-P100), then dusted off, and coated with one coat of interior penetrating primer.

In order to increase the heat and sound insulation of the room, in the space between the main wall and the drywall sheets, I recommend laying a mineral wool-based roll insulation. For the same purposes, before mounting drywall on the wall, a vibration-proof foam rubber tape must be glued to the front plane of the supporting frame along the entire length.

Frameless installation of drywall sheets

The GKL installation technology described above helps to remove visible building defects from the eyes, and allows you to level even the most crooked walls, but it has one significant drawback. The fact is that the metal profile of the supporting frame itself has a certain thickness, and in some cases, it has to be installed at a considerable distance from the main wall. In the end, after plasterboarding the walls, the room slightly decreases in volume. If this is not so critical for a room with a large area, then in small room such a difference can be very noticeable.

To make the most of the usable space, below will be suggested step-by-step instruction in which I will describe three simple ways frameless installation of drywall for fine finish walls in small spaces.

1. The easiest way is to glue the sheet to the wall with a special drywall adhesive, which is sold under the brand name "Perlfix". It is produced in the form of a dry construction mixture, and is prepared directly at the place of work. It should be borne in mind that the installation of GKL on glue is allowed with a deviation from the vertical or wall irregularities from 5 to 20 mm.

• First you need to cut all the sheets of drywall in right size, try on each of them in its place, then number and set aside;
• Treat the cleaned wall and the back plane of each drywall sheet with a special water-based penetrating primer;

• After the primer has dried, apply glue to the back in one of two ways. If the irregularities on the wall are from 5 to 10 mm, it is necessary to apply continuous strips of glue around the perimeter and in the middle, and then smooth and remove its remains with a notched trowel;
• With a depth of unevenness on the wall up to 20 mm, the adhesive must be applied with large round cakes with a diameter of 100-150 mm, along the perimeter and in the middle of the sheet, at a distance of 200-300 mm between them.
• After applying the adhesive layer, each sheet must be pressed against the wall, leveled, and fixed in a fixed position until the adhesive begins to set.

1. If in some places the curvature of the walls reaches 50 mm, for gluing sheets it is necessary to use linings in the form of strips of drywall scraps 150-180 mm wide.

• The strips must be fixed horizontally along the entire length of the wall at a distance of 500-600 mm between them, using the same glue or long self-tapping screws;
• In those places where there are deep dips and depressions on the wall, plasterboard linings must be placed under each strip, and thus align them in a vertical and horizontal plane;
• As in the first case, drywall must be cut to size, and its reverse side and strips should be treated with a penetrating primer;
• Lubricate each strip thickly with adhesive, level it with a notched trowel, then install a drywall sheet in its place, pressing it evenly over the entire area;
• For reliable fixation, several self-tapping screws can be screwed into each strip, directly through the front surface of the sheet.

1. For gluing drywall to wooden walls, you can use ordinary mounting foam in metal cylinders. After hardening, it has some elasticity, which reduces the likelihood of cracking or deformation of the sheets in the process of shrinkage or swelling of wood.

• The surface of wood in a confined space is prone to mold, therefore, before installation, the entire wall area and the back side of the sheets must be impregnated twice with an antiseptic penetrating primer;
• Fix each sheet of drywall to the wall at a small offset (5-10 mm) by screwing it in several places with self-tapping screws through spacers or wide washers;
• Drill evenly around the perimeter and over the entire area of ​​the sheet through holes with a diameter of 8-10 mm at a distance of 300-400 mm between them;

• Insert a plastic tube from the gun into each hole in turn, and blow out an equal amount of mounting foam;
• In order to evenly dose the injection of foam into all holes, I advise you to count each pull of the trigger mounting gun by seconds;
• The remnants of mounting foam protruding from the hole do not need to try to catch and push back. After hardening, it is easy to cut it with a knife flush with the front plane of the drywall and sand it with a fine emery cloth.

For gluing drywall, I recommend choosing a mounting foam with a low coefficient of expansion. Otherwise, in the process of solidification, it can significantly increase in volume, and form on plasterboard wall local bumps and irregularities.

Conclusion

Despite all its advantages, the described methods of frameless installation of drywall have three common disadvantages. Firstly, adhesive fastening of sheets can only be used if the walls in the room are relatively even and do not have obvious construction defects, and the deviation from the vertical and height differences are no more than 50 mm.

Secondly, this method of installation does not allow laying between drywall and the main wall of heat and soundproof materials. And thirdly, this wall covering it is impossible to dismantle without destroying the drywall.

More detailed visual instruction on installing drywall on walls can be seen in the video presented in this article, and if after watching you have questions, I suggest discussing them together in the comment form.

October 28, 2016

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