Repair raspberries: proper care in the fall and the secrets of preparing for winter. Repair raspberries - pruning and proper care for an excellent harvest
Fragrant, tasty and healthy raspberries are loved by almost everyone, so on each suburban area this valuable crop is growing. Remontant varieties that can bear fruit on both annual and biennial shoots are very popular among gardeners. Thereby delicious berries can be collected throughout the season. In order for the harvest to be plentiful, it is necessary to know and fulfill all the rules of planting and care remontant raspberry .
Landing features
Remontant varieties in open ground can be planted both in early spring and autumn. Novice gardeners are interested in the question in which month raspberries should be planted. It is better to do this from mid-September to early October, preparing the site for planting in spring or summer. Planting dates may vary depending on the climate of the region. Therefore, it should be borne in mind that seedlings before the onset of frost have to settle down, for which they need about a month.
The benefits of planting remontant raspberries in the fall include:
- Autumn air humidity favorably affects the survival rate of seedlings.
- In spring, the roots develop more slowly than the shoots, so they do not have time to provide the plant with nutrients.
- Over the summer, you can independently and without problems prepare the required number of cuttings with horses.
- Enough time to prepare the seat.
Site selection and preparation
For good growth and fruiting raspberries are necessary well lit windless areas. Remontant varieties do not like stagnant water in the soil, so the place must be dry. If the sunny area is in a lowland, then you can add soil.
In order for plants to be affected as little as possible by diseases and pests, it is necessary observe crop rotation.
To do this, raspberries are planted after green manure crops, which are dug up with soil in August. But it is best if the seat was under black fallow. On the beds where raspberries, tomatoes, potatoes or peppers grew, it is possible to plant a crop only after three years.
The soil must be fertile sandy or loamy. When digging the soil for each square meter beds are brought in 10 kg of humus, 15 grams of superphosphate and 25 grams of potassium sulfate. If seedlings are planted in trenches, then for each meter of length landing pit it is necessary to add 5 kg of rotted manure, liter wood ash and a tablespoon of superphosphate with potassium sulfate. Before planting, the bed must be dug up again.
Raspberry Planting Scheme
Remontant varieties can be planted in two ways:
- The tape method involves planting seedlings in trenches, the distance between which should be from one and a half to two meters. The distance between the plants themselves should be - 40-50 cm.
- Bush or pit method best suited for autumn planting. In this case, pits are prepared for seedlings about 40 cm deep and not more than 60 cm wide. The distance between plants should be about one meter, and between rows - one and a half meters.
During planting, the roots of the seedling must be straightened in different directions, fall asleep fertile soil and water. root collar must be at ground level. The area around the plants is recommended to be mulched using dry straw, foliage or manure. This procedure will retain moisture in the soil and will cover the roots from the penetration of cold.
Immediately after landing experienced gardeners it is recommended to install trellises near the bushes. These are posts with wire, to which in the spring it will be possible to quickly and easily tie up growing shoots. The columns are placed at a distance of about one and a half meters from each other. A galvanized wire is tied between them at different heights from the ground. The bottom row of wire should be at a height of 30 cm, the middle one - about 100 cm, and the top one - 150 cm. Annual shoots will be tied to the bottom row in autumn.
Despite the fact that the culture does not like stagnation in the soil, it should be watered regularly and plentifully. If it rains regularly in summer, then on average the plants can be watered once a week. In hot and dry weather, watering should be more frequent. Especially soil moisture must be monitored during budding and fruit formation. In autumn, shrubs must be watered abundantly so that the plants are saturated with moisture before wintering.
The soil around the bushes should be regularly freed from weeds and loosened. It is better to do this after rain or watering.
top dressing
Feeding remontant varieties is recommended in the spring. But if during the planting of seedlings all the necessary fertilizers were applied to the soil, then for two years the plants can not be fed.
Raspberries love both organic and mineral fertilizers. If the soil is sprinkled with mulch in the form of humus or humus in autumn or spring, then others organic fertilizers may not be entered.
In early spring plants definitely need mineral fertilizers, for which you can use nitroammophoska. From 50 to 100 g is applied per square meter of the bed mineral dressings. They must contain potassium, without which the leaves become small, turn yellow and die. potash fertilizers must not contain chlorine.
Pruning remontant varieties
If ordinary raspberries are not pruned in autumn, then remontant ones must be pruned in spring and autumn. held in the spring sanitary pruning during which damaged shoots are removed. They are pruned to a healthy kidney. In autumn, the pruning procedure depends on whether the crop is grown for one or two crops:
- For one harvest. This method involves the ripening of berries from August to the very frost. To get a bountiful harvest, in the fall it is necessary to cut off all the shoots on the bushes. This should be done as late as possible, preferably after the onset of frost. After early pruning, young shoots will begin to grow, which will freeze during frosts, which will negatively affect the future harvest. After pruning the shoots to the ground in the spring, each bush will give a lot of new growth, from which three or four strong healthy shoots must be left.
- For two harvests. This method involves picking berries in June and September. Pruning is carried out in two stages. For the first time after the first harvest, fruiting shoots are cut out. The remaining young branches will begin to develop rapidly and new berries will ripen on their tops by autumn. In the autumn, when the berry picking is over, the dried top, on which the fruits were, is cut off from the shoots. With this method of growing remontant varieties, plantings are thickened, so plants are most susceptible to various diseases and pest attacks.
Many gardeners prefer to grow raspberries for one crop, during which more fruits can be harvested than two harvests per season.
How to plant raspberries in autumn
About five years later, the raspberry starts to run out and no longer gives a bountiful harvest, so the plants are recommended to be transplanted to a new place. Transplanting is best done in the fall, so that the bushes take root and rest over the winter.
In the period from mid-September to mid-October, the bushes must be dug up, viable, healthy, young shoots should be selected on them, and weak and thin shoots should be removed. Old bushes can be thrown away, as they will no longer bear fruit well. And the selected strong young shoots are planted in a new place in the same way as when planting seedlings.
If it is not possible to transfer the raspberry to a new place, but it is already necessary to rejuvenate it, then the old rhizome can simply be cut down with a shovel. On the remaining roots will soon begin to grow young shoots, from which a new bush will form.
Preparing for winter
If raspberries were planted or transplanted in the fall, they must be prepared for the winter. In the northern regions and middle lane Russian bushes need to be covered, otherwise they may freeze. Usually remontant raspberries are resistant to frost, but if there is little rainfall in winter, then the roots of the plants freeze. Therefore, the raspberry requires autumn training to the winter cold. For this you need:
- Clear the area of old mulch and plant debris that needs to be burned.
- If there is no rain, water the plantings.
- After rain or watering, carefully loosen the soil.
- Cover the soil around the plants with spruce branches, dry leaves or peat.
- Long shoots tilt and tie to the bottom wire of the trellis.
- In areas with cold winters, cover raspberries or other nonwoven fabric.
It is not necessary for gardeners living in the southern regions to cover the raspberries, but it is necessary to clean, water, loosen and mulch the soil.
Reproduction methods
You can propagate remontant raspberries green cuttings, horse offspring or cuttings.
Green cuttings
Cuttings are carried out in late spring. Annual shoots are used, which have grown to a height of 3-4 cm. They are cut off from the roots of the main plant, dug out together with a clod of earth and transplanted to a new place. Before planting, cuts are recommended to be treated with crushed coal.
The planting hole should have a volume equal to the volume of the roots. For better rooting the cuttings are planted under the film at a distance of 5 cm from each other. The distance between the rows should be about 10 cm. sun rays and water regularly. When the bushes take root, they begin to harden, for which the film is removed. Grown up and accustomed to open air plants transplanted to a permanent bed.
Root cuttings
Raspberries should be propagated by cuttings in the fall, for which a root with a diameter of at least two centimeters is selected and dug out. Each cutting should be eight to twelve centimeters long. A furrow is dug for them, in which the cuttings are laid in rows and sprinkled with earth. Landings are watered and sprinkled with mulch, which will protect them from frost. In the spring and summer of the following year, the cuttings must be watered regularly, the soil around them should be loosened and treated for weeds. In autumn, seedlings are transplanted to a permanent bed.
Root offspring
Only some remontant varieties form root shoots that can be used for propagation. Dig up the shoots after it reaches a height of five to ten centimeters. Temporary beds are being prepared for it, on which it is necessary to make small size wells. Planted shoots are watered and shaded from direct sunlight. The soil around them must be covered with mulch, which will protect the soil from drying out and prevent weeds from growing. The shoots are regularly watered and transplanted to a permanent place in the fall.
Proper planting and care of remontant raspberries will guarantee a good harvest of delicious and useful berries, which can be enjoyed throughout the season.
Let these mistakes not become yours: remontant raspberries, leaving in the fall and preparing for winter - agronomists advise, experienced farmers recommend.
Repair raspberries: our 7 mistakes of care and preparation for winter
What are we doing wrong, taking care of our remontants? Our mistakes, rules of care, the subtleties of agricultural technology.
Repair raspberry, care in the fall and its preparation for winter: do not make these mistakes - agronomists warn.
two crops
The mistake is the main one. Remontant culture - it has a catch: it bears fruit on the shoots of the current year, and yields crops on last year's shoots: in the first year - at the top, in the second - on the rest of the stem.
But bad luck: one harvest is always better than two - both quantitatively and qualitatively.
And when grown in a two-year cycle, a good part of the second crop is guaranteed to go into the winter. This is true for the Moscow region, and the harsh truth of life for the regions to the north.
And one more thing: getting rid of the shoots of the current year, we increase the agricultural background. Together with the fruiting stems, all pests go into the winter: gall midge, raspberry mosquito and others, as well as diseases. No stems - no problem.
Repaired raspberries in autumn need one care: mowing.
How to do the right thing. A remontant variety is a chance to save raspberries in cold regions from freezing in winter in the Urals and Siberia in winters with little snow, at critically low temperatures, and yourself from a headache: you don’t need to bend, tie, bury, cover. She does not need anything - just pruning. This is especially true for commercial plantings.
In the description of most modern remontant forms, the authors of the variety themselves or the copyright holders give advice: the variety is recommended for cultivation in a one-year cycle, for one harvest.
This applies to both domestic varieties and varieties of Polish selection, English forms- any.
Early mowing of shoots
Remontants bear fruit until October-November in the southern regions, until the very frost in any region. And immediately after the end, or without waiting for it, gardeners start cutting shoots - out of a habit developed when working with summer crops.
Preparing remontant raspberries for the winter ahead: autumn work in raspberries.
And very in vain. It is correct to do this at the end of the sap flow - or before it begins, in October-November, before the snow falls.
And in the case of summer raspberries, the classic phrase “cut at the end of fruiting” is bad advice.
Why? This is how all shrubs are arranged: at the beginning of the growing season and in summer, all nutrients move from the bottom up, from the root to the aerial part. By the end of the growing season, the process is reversed: plastic nutrients move down to the roots - and they will come in handy.
What to do? If a remontant raspberry fruited in the fall until October, let it stand. Work begins after complete leaf fall, with the first frosts - precisely at the end of sap flow.
Do not rush with autumn mowing: the whole autumn is ahead! And even winter.
Many experienced farmers are in no hurry with the event: neither in preparation for winter, nor in the new season. They do not cut off fruiting stems until replacement shoots appear in the spring.
This is especially true for the southern regions. By the way, with reference to the book by Kazakov I.V. “Repairing raspberries in Russia”, where the author is advised to hold an event in the new season, incl. on South.
Why? There is an opinion that autumn mowing provokes an early awakening, which in a warm winter, early or with little snow, threatens to attack.
The advice is valid for those who grow for two crops: the root needs nutrition, and mowing the stems during sap flow is fraught with disease and freezing.
But there is another side to the two-faced remontant. Binding, bending down and all kinds of warming of raspberries before winter are ahead. And a later event will nullify the expediency of the following. And this is the next mistake.
late crouching
Both in the books of the times of the USSR, and in publications, advice was given by the unfaithful, which they follow today and advise others. Bending down raspberries in autumn to prepare for winter is important at the green stem stage. Brown lignified shoots are brittle, they crack. 
How to tie. The stems are collected in bunches, tilted either sequentially one after another in arcs, or towards each other, tied. The height of the bent vines is up to half a meter, so that the snow is guaranteed to cover the raspberries.
The event is important to hold before the end of September-beginning of October.
Alas, for remontant forms this is practically not feasible: how to bend it down if it is still in berries?
That is why cultivation is practiced in a one-year cycle - with subsequent cutting of the stems. But - with new errors.
About hemp
For remontant forms with autumn pruning do not leave hemp - this is an axiom.
Why? The rest of the stem will freeze out, and will lead to the death of the root buds and the rhizome itself: it has been proven by practitioners in the northern regions and beyond. The stems are cut even below even below ground level.
About watering
In the hustle and bustle, when preparing repair raspberries for winter, they forget about the main thing: about water-charging irrigation. And this is the key to successful wintering of plants, the preservation of soil structure, protection from deep freezing.
Watering is carried out at the end of fruiting as the soil dries up, and until the end of October.
And even when mowing, it is needed: a rhizome with root buds remains, young shoots (if any).
About top dressing: fertilizing remontant raspberries in the fall
Do not wake her up - I want to say to gardeners who “feed” raspberries in the fall with organic matter. In the course are: fresh manure of all stripes, bedding and other delights of animal husbandry. Raspberries don't need them. IN best case- mulching after soil icing to avoid root burns.
And even better - rotted manure, humus as mulch. And best of all, not in the fall, not before winter.
How so - and the experience of generations? And generations of summer residents collected dry berries a zhmenka and rejoiced, not realizing that nitrogen was not needed when caring for raspberries in the fall.
Plants finish their growing season, prepare for dormancy in the winter. Nitrogen prolongs vegetation, gives impetus to the growth of the aerial part, root buds.
As a result, the wood does not mature - hence the frozen branches, frequent attacks - the freezing of the root system, there is no young shoots, replacement shoots.
And all because winter remontant raspberries and not only met not at rest: it and -5 C during active vegetation are detrimental.
And what to feed? In autumn, through October-November, mineral nutrition is introduced - potassium for the ripening of shoots, phosphorus for the root system, and trace elements. In what form is the master's business: even newfangled microfertilizers in a chelated form or in an osmotic shell, the so-called. osmokoty, though the good old.
About mulching
They mulch like stems left from autumn to the second year, insulate in the northern regions both cut bushes and left root shoots. Whether or not to leave it in cold areas is a moot point, and the answer is individual in each individual case. And the question is in the material for mulching.
- Shavings or sawdust. When preparing repair raspberries for winter, the root zone or rows are mulched with sawdust, shavings. Meanwhile, in the spring, the shavings push back, according to objective reviews, fruiting for two weeks. How? It prevents the soil from warming up in spring, keeps a layer of snow. And the moisture-absorbing material takes on moisture, which means flooding the roots during the thaw, icing during subsequent frosts in the middle of winter. Sawdust is good in late spring: it retains moisture and retains the loose structure of the soil.
- Leaf litter, straw is not winter materials. In addition, the litter is a winter haven for pests that are happy to wake up in the raspberries.
- Peat. This is both fertilizer and protection against running in winters with little snow. But, again, it prevents the heating of the soil, retains moisture.
And how can you cover, bend or mow this remontant raspberry in the fall when it is full of berries?
What to do? There is light humus mixed with soil from row spacings, there is mulching agrofabric or covering agrofibre, for example - the simplest and most reliable material. It does not heat - it slows down heat transfer, does not allow the soil to freeze both in rows and between rows. And when sheltering stems for the winter with low snow cover, it is good, and for sheltering young seedlings in winter.
Repair raspberries are very popular among domestic gardeners. First of all, this is due to the fact that with the help of competent agricultural practices, it is possible to get not only an excellent harvest from it in the first year after planting, but also to harvest it twice a season. Technologies for the care of remontant raspberries in autumn period have their own characteristics, which we will discuss in our article.
Autumn pruning remontant raspberries
If at the beginning of autumn the shoots on summer varieties of raspberries can already be cut, then remontant raspberries are still actively bearing fruit at this time, which is why most of the care and preparation for wintering procedures are moved to a later date. Naturally, the care technology also depends on how many crops are expected to be harvested per season, plus climatic conditions places where bushes grow also bring their own characteristics.
So late deadline pruning of remontant raspberries is caused by the fact that fruiting in many varieties continues almost until frost, in addition, even after harvesting, the vegetation process sometimes continues. Then pruning shoots in warm weather can stimulate the development of new buds. This feature of remontant raspberries forces gardeners living in the southern regions to prune shoots exclusively in early spring so that the autumn awakening of the bush does not take away nutrients and weaken root system before wintering.
If it is planned to harvest two crops during the season, the first from two-year-old shoots, and the second from young annuals, then cut off:
- Tops on annual shoots where there were fruits.
- Two-year-old shoots, as they will no longer bear fruit in the future.
- Fresh and weak offspring, if there is any doubt that they will survive the winter.
The procedure should be performed with the onset of late autumn. Shoots left for wintering must be bent down and covered with snow, by analogy with ordinary varieties. Pruning of the tops of annual shoots can be carried out in early spring, but regardless of the time of pruning, berries can be seen on the stems at the very beginning of summer.
The main disadvantage of this agricultural technique is the fact that in the process of ripening the first crop, the plant will consume mass nutrients because of what the terms of maturation of the second harvest are shifted. In addition, less nutrients are supplied to young shoots, which negatively affects the quality and quantity of berries of the second autumn harvest. From here - extra hassle, because in order to ensure the normal development of plants, they have to be constantly fed throughout the season.
Growing remontant raspberry varieties as an annual crop, on the one hand, solves the problem of winter hardiness, and on the other hand, helps to get rid of major diseases and pests.
If remontant raspberries are grown to obtain only one crop, then autumn pruning can be carried out in November and even in early December, after the soil has frozen. During this period, all young shoots, as well as old shoots that have already borne fruit, are cut to ground level, only the rhizome remains, which, with the onset of spring, will drive out new shoots.
Often, gardeners leave low stumps during pruning. This is fundamentally wrong - young and rather weak shoots will come out of the stumps in the spring, which will no longer have the properties of remontance. As a result, you will get simple, and even undersized raspberries with mediocre berries.
The rules for pruning remontant raspberries in the autumn may differ. It depends on the particular variety and time of planting. So, just planted plants are not completely cut off - you need to leave a stem about 20 centimeters high, thanks to this, nutrients will begin to accumulate.
A full pruning can be done next year, when the bush takes root and takes root securely. In addition, there are varieties of remontant raspberries, for example, "Yellow Giant", which bear fruit much better on old two-year-old stems, so it is better not to cut it completely, but to prepare it for winter like a regular variety.
Care and preparation of raspberries for winter
After pruning, the raspberries are raked out, the remains of the stems, leaves, mulch are removed and all waste is burned, as they may contain pests. Since remontant raspberries are winter-hardy, you can additionally not cover the rhizomes. This does not apply to regions where winters are harsh and not snowy, where, in order to protect the root system from freezing and drying, raspberries are covered with straw or hay and special fences are installed so that the wind does not blow off the snow.
The advantages of remontant raspberries include not only fairly simple care in the fall, but also the fact that, due to the late ripening of berries, pests practically do not settle on the bushes.
Due to the fact that the intensive growth and fruiting of the bushes contributes to the rapid removal of nutrients from the soil, after pruning it is recommended to mulch the raspberries with a layer of humus or semi-rotted manure about 10 centimeters thick. This will additionally warm the roots for the winter and will be an excellent fertilizer for raspberries.
If you want to loosen the soil at the same time, you should not go deeper than 8 centimeters - the roots lie close to the surface and can be accidentally damaged. If in the fall you choose the right agricultural practices for the care of remontant raspberries, then next year you will get a plentiful harvest of high-quality berries.
Let's properly cover the raspberries for the winter - it's so simple and fast. If you start caring for it in the summer, do not make mistakes in pruning and winter shelter operations, then you will get an excellent harvest.
Pictured is a raspberry
Contrary to popular belief, the preparation of raspberries for wintering does not begin in autumn, but in summer.
IN recent weeks summer, the ripening of raspberry wood should be strengthened by top dressing. To do this, you need to use potash and phosphorus fertilizers, excluding nitrogen. The plant loves nutritious, fertilized soil. Top dressing, in addition to a good harvest, will prepare the root system with annual shoots for winter, and next year they will bring an excellent harvest. Before severe frosts, by the beginning of October, the last top dressing should be given.
Video about preparing raspberries for winter
After picking berries, at the end of the active growing season, we prune the shrub. Since raspberries produce crops on two-year-old shoots, older lashes die off, and young shoots do not carry berries. Thus, we cut off all the branches that gave a harvest this summer, they have served their purpose, there is no need for the plant to spend strength there, which should be directed to laying the future harvest with green summer, now lignified shoots. We also remove weak, thin shoots from the summer shoots, leaving only the most powerful, ripe ones.
Mulching the soil, tying branches, additional shelter for bushes for the winter
In autumn, you should start mulching the soil. In general, raspberry roots should be well protected all year round because they are the easiest to preserve. high humidity soil, unless you have planted raspberry bushes in trenches.
However, this way you can also reduce the amount of watering by throwing it with rotten foliage, peat and other mulching material. Mulching is a very important process. Especially if, where you live, severe autumn frosts are not uncommon before the snow cover is established, or if, due to the aridity of the climate, the snow cover is insufficient to insulate the soil in winter.
For mulching, it is best to use organic material with a neutral acid environment - this berry does not like either acid or alkaline soil reactions. So if you cover the soil with sawdust, then you should not use conifers. Straw, rotten foliage, peat are best suited. Ordinary compost is less suitable - it contains a lot of nitrogen, and can also cause the lower part of the branches to warm up during warm winter. The optimal layer of mulch is from five to ten centimeters. A smaller layer does not sufficiently isolate the soil, a larger one will cause dampening in the spring, and during a thaw it will provoke purulent, fungal infections on the branches, weaken the immunity of the bush. Before mulching, it is necessary to shed the soil well to winter period. It is important that the plants do not go to winter with a dried root system.
Pictured is a raspberry pruning
After leaf fall, we carry out the procedure of bending raspberry lashes to the ground. For this we use simple design: several dug-in wooden posts or metal rods, we stretch the wire between them. If the wire for the summer tying of the lashes is high, then for the lower tying we pull the wire no higher than twenty centimeters from the ground. This is necessary so that the branches go under the snow as soon as possible without having time to freeze. Tied whips should be an arcuate appearance. It is best to tie with nylon threads or ribbons.
How to prepare raspberries for wintering if you grow them in open space, where winds are frequent, blowing snow in winter? The answer is simple - take care of snow retention. To do this, install barriers on the windward side of the rows of raspberry bushes. You can dig plywood sheets, or even better, use polycarbonate. It is not afraid of winter frosts, does not rot, can be used much large quantity winters than plywood. To secure snow-retaining cordons, you can tie them to trellises between which you have stretched rows of raspberry wire. Naturally, it is more expedient to put these structures on the side of the predominant direction of the winter wind on your garden plot. To clarify the direction, check the wind rose of your area, it can be found on the website of the regional hydrometeorological service.
Pictured is a raspberry
In some places, the snow may not fall enough, or it erodes even despite the barrier cordons. Then you should additionally cover the raspberry bushes with a covering non-woven material like lutrasil or spunbond. You bend the raspberry lashes to the ground, tie them to the bottom wire as firmly as possible, and on top, put covering material in several layers, which you then also fix. You can press it on both sides to the ground, you can dig it into the ground from both ends - as you like. If you live where there is often not enough snow in winter, and autumn-winter frosts are very severe, then you can use curved sheets as an additional layer of protection. cellular polycarbonate placed on top of the covered lashes of raspberries in the form of an arched shelter.
It is very important to bend the raspberry branches in time, because if you do it early, then due to the high daily temperatures in the fall, damping is possible. If done too late, the frost makes the branches less bending, more brittle. There is a high chance of damaging the plants when you bend them to the ground. Best of all - after the autumn leaf fall, but even before the first snowfall. The same applies to covering bushes with non-woven material or sheets of cellular polycarbonate. You will be late, and such preparation of raspberry bushes for winter will bring a lot of harm to the plant.
It is also very important to remove the shelter in time, and then tie raspberry branches to the trellis in the spring. Do it too early - spring wood burns are possible. In spring, daily temperature fluctuations are high, sometimes exceeding ten degrees. During the day, the bushes will heat up, and at night they will freeze. In addition, March is very often the month of the strongest winds. All this leads to spring burns and weathering of wood, weakens the immunity of raspberry plantations.
Pictured is a raspberry garter
If raspberry plantations are additionally covered, then we open the bushes in stages. First, after the snow melts, we remove the covering material. This is necessary to ventilate the lower part of the bushes, which should not be blocked, the mulch layer. Then the branches rise to high trellises. It is best to do this before mid-April.
Preparing remontant raspberries for winter
A feature of any type of remontant crops is the ability to produce crops both on biennial shoots that matured last season, and on green, summer shoots.
If you are trying to ensure that remontant raspberries give as much of a crop as possible, then you should grow it and prepare it for winter using the same agricultural techniques as ordinary raspberries, only the timing of shelter for the winter will be slightly shifted - remontant varieties will grow and produce crops up to the very frost. But the best and highest quality crops from such crops are produced by annual shoots. They yield more than perennial shoots. It is more expedient to leave only them, without wasting energy on biennial lashes.
Video about pruning raspberries for winter
Therefore, in the autumn, as soon as very coldy beat the foliage on the raspberry branches, we cut off all the wood, leaving only small stems at the roots. We cover the roots very well with mulching material - keeping them until spring is the most important thing for us now. The main thing is not to overdo it with shelter, otherwise the roots can be banned in a warm and snowy winter. So just mulch is enough and nothing extra.
Preparing raspberries for winter in stages:
- During the summer-autumn, we fertilize with potash-phosphorus fertilizers for better ripening.
- After harvesting, we prune, removing last year's branches and leaving only the strongest summer shoots. We cut the remontant raspberry at the root, but later, it can produce a crop until the very cold weather.
- We spill the soil well before wintering so that it does not go dry in the winter.
- We mulch the bushes for additional thermal insulation of the roots, best of all with the foliage of trees and shrubs.
- In October, we remove the branches from the trellises, tie them to the wire as close to the ground as possible.
- Additionally cover the branches if you live in a harsh climate with little snow.
- Install snow retention cordons if there is a problem with winter weathering on the site.
- In the spring, we manage to untie the branches from the ground in time and lift them onto the trellises.
