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Raspberry bushes are strong and there are almost no fruits. Why does remontant raspberry grow poorly. Raspberry remontant - difference from simple raspberries, features of fruiting, video

Gardeners always have a lot of questions about how to grow raspberries, how to grow them so that they are tasty, sweet. Raspberry - very useful plant, which can be seen on almost every garden plot. This is one of the most delicious berries our gardens. But who among us did not notice on the bushes, now worms, then some kind of clumsy, hardened raspberries? Why did the twigs suddenly dry up with fruits that did not have time to ripen? We have selected the most frequently asked questions and tried to answer briefly.

How to choose the best place for raspberries?

Those gardeners who set aside a corner of the garden for her or plant her along the hedge are doing the right thing. This makes it easier to take care of her. But still, the corner of the garden is preferable, since it is there that a large amount of snow accumulates during the winter.

What is the best soil for raspberries?

Fertile, moist soils are most suitable for growing. The best for her are sandy-clay, alluvial-meadow, which are more saturated with nutrients than others. Heavy clay soils and soils oversaturated with limestone are unacceptable for her.

How to prepare the soil for raspberries?

5-8 kg of manure, 70-80 g of superphosphate, 20-25 g of potassium sulfate are applied to the area intended for planting - this is per 1 sq. m. Scatter fertilizers evenly over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site, dig it deep.

Do I need to plant several varieties of raspberries side by side for better pollination?

Most raspberry varieties are self-fertile, so there is no particular need to plant pollinating varieties nearby. Of course, you can plant several varieties side by side, but this will not interfere with pollination.

When to plant raspberries?

Best time years for planting or transplanting seedlings - autumn - end of August - September. In the spring, you can plant only as an exception.

How to plant raspberry seedlings?

Pits for planting raspberries usually have dimensions of 30 × 30 × 30 cm. The seedlings are positioned so that after filling with soil they are below the ground (6-7 cm). The roots must be carefully straightened and covered. The soil around the seedling is compacted. For better conditions when watering, the soil is raked from the trunk - a small depression is made so that the water does not spread. After watering, the soil around the seedlings is mulched with peat, hay, straw, fallen leaves, and other mulch.

Do I need to prune raspberries after planting?

Need to. If not cut, then, firstly, it will give a small crop, secondly, new young shoots will not form, which will give a new crop, and thirdly, cut plants take root better. Therefore, immediately after planting, the stems are cut with secateurs, leaving stumps no more than 20-25 cm tall.

How far apart should raspberry seedlings be planted?

Between rows, a distance of 1-1.2 m should be left, and between seedlings - 50-60 cm.

How to propagate raspberries?

The main methods of reproduction are propagation by seeds, vegetatively. Reproduction by seeds amateur gardeners practically do not use. Usually, plants grown in this way rarely take valuable qualities from the original parent varieties. The vegetative method involves the use of young shoots from the roots (root offspring) or dividing the bush for propagation. This is the cheapest, fastest way.

How, when and why to care for raspberries?

If you do not take care of planting raspberries, then it will overgrow with weeds, which greatly deplete the bushes. There are few young shoots, they are weak. The berries become small, their taste deteriorates, the yield decreases.

Autumn digging between rows is required. First, excess young shoots are removed, and then they dig up the soil between the rows.

In the spring, before bud break (end of March-April), the soil between the bushes must be loosened. Deeper between rows - 10-15 cm, and next to plants - shallow - 5-7 cm, so as not to damage the root system.

From the beginning of the appearance of leaves and until the collection of berries, they are loosened two more times.

After harvesting, they loosen again, and then do not touch the aisles until autumn - annual shoots should ripen well.

How, when to water and how much water do raspberries need when watering?

Raspberries love watering. Most moisture is required when it blooms, when it is tied, the berries ripen - from May to August. The first time (of course, if there is no rain) they are watered before flowering (end of April), the second time - the end of May. Be sure to water 1-2 times when the berries are poured. Water for the last time after harvest.

Irrigation rate - 1-2 buckets of water for one plant. It is most convenient to water through the furrows, which are made on both sides of the row - a distance of 20-25 cm from the bushes.

How to cut raspberries?

Immediately after planting, the raspberry stalks are cut off, leaving stumps 20-25 cm high. In the second year, 2-3 young shoots are left - the rest are cut with secateurs to the ground, leaving no stumps.

As soon as the entire crop is harvested, all two-year-old shoots that have already fructified are cut out.

It is also recommended to prune in the spring, since after winter it is usually clear which shoots are weak, which ones were sick. Young shoots are cut out if there are a lot of them or they grow too often. No more than 10-12 young shoots are left per bush.

How to rejuvenate raspberry bushes?

In older bushes, the number of young shoots usually decreases. Sooner or later, the yield of such bushes decreases. Experienced gardeners know that you can restore productivity by removing the old rhizome. In this case, there is an increase in the growth of young shoots. In parallel with the removal of the old rhizome, increased doses of organic and mineral fertilizers are applied under raspberries. Such rejuvenation should be carried out every 5-6 years.

How and what fertilize raspberries?

It is best for raspberries to alternate the application of organic and mineral fertilizers. The dosage is as follows - 1.5-3 kg of manure + 1 tablespoon (30 g) of superphosphate + 1 tbsp. spoon of potassium sulfate (30 g) per 1 sq. m. Organic matter (manure) is applied in autumn during deep digging of row spacing. Superphosphate is applied in the spring before bud break during the first loosening. Potassium sulphate - at the end of flowering. Fertilizers are evenly distributed over the surface of the soil, dug up or loosen it.

How long, how many years can raspberries grow in one place?

With good care, you can grow it for 12-15 years without changing the landing site.

What are the fungal diseases of raspberries, how to deal with them?

Blue-purple spotting (didimela)

Signs: blue-violet spots appear on the stems at the point of attachment to the cutting - the leaves fall off, and the cuttings remain and droop. The culprit of the disease is the spores of the fungus overwinter on young raspberry shoots.

Control measures: remove, burn diseased shoots; spray with copper-containing preparations (chorus, Bordeaux liquid, HOM, others).

Drying of shoots (koniotirium)

This fungal disease manifests itself in the drying of shoots, sometimes along with berries.

Control measures: cut, burn the affected shoots; spraying with copper-containing preparations.

Anthracnose

Spores of the fungus infect shoots, berries, leaves, spots with a purple border appear on them.

Control measures: removal, burning of affected shoots along with leaves, berries; Spraying in late autumn, summer (2-3 times in 2 weeks) with copper-containing preparations that prevent the reproduction and development of the fungus.

Raspberry leaf rust

With this disease, light yellow spots appear on the upper part of the leaves, a little later in the same places, but orange-yellow pimples are visible from the bottom of the leaf, which eventually acquire a dark rusty color - these are spores of the fungus. The fungus that causes the disease overwinters on fallen leaves.

Control measures: spraying fallen leaves with copper-containing preparations. In the spring, the obligatory first spraying after the leaves bloom, repeated - after two weeks.

Raspberry leaf spot

Signs of the disease: white-dirty spots appear on the leaves. Fungus spores overwinter on fallen leaves.

Control measures: as soon as the first manifestations of the disease are noticed, spray with copper-containing preparations; fallen leaves are recommended to be burned.

What are the viral diseases of raspberries, how to deal with them?

From viral diseases the most famous are: yellow mosaic, witch's broom, yellow leaf venation, viral (infectious) chlorosis.

Witch's broom (growth, bushiness)

With a witch's broom disease, numerous thin shortened shoots form on the raspberry shoots - they become like a broom. Berries are tied much less.

yellow mosaic

With yellow mosaic disease, pale green spots first appear on raspberry leaves, which then turn yellow.

yellow veining of leaves

With yellow venation of the leaves, yellow stripes appear along the veins.

Infectious (viral chlorosis)

With infectious (viral) chlorosis, by mid-summer the leaves turn yellow, first along the veins, and then the entire leaf turns yellow, as in autumn.

All these diseases are viral in nature.

Control measures: root removal of diseased bushes; treatment with drugs that destroy pests - aphids, cicadas, others that are carriers of pathogenic viruses, for example, Actellik, Iskra, Karbofos, Kemifos, and others.

How to prevent the appearance of worms in raspberry berries?

The culprit for the appearance of wormy berries is the raspberry beetle. It hibernates as an adult in the ground, appears in the spring, eats buds, flowers. Raspberry beetle females lay their eggs inside the buds, flower buds, green raspberries. Beetle larvae (worms) live in berries, feed on them, and pupate in the soil. This cycle is repeated once a year.

Control measures: in the fall, dig up the soil, that is, disturb the wintering place of the raspberry beetle. And in the spring, spray the bushes until the leaves appear with one of the following preparations: Fufanon, Kemifos, Karbofos.

How to deal with raspberry agrilus?

Raspberry Agrilus is a beetle of a light gray-greenish color. Female beetles lay their eggs under the skin of raspberry stems. The emerging larvae make spiral passages inside the stems - the shoots die off.

Control measures - cutting, destruction (burning) of the affected shoots - this is the only way.

How to deal with stem raspberry gall midge?

Raspberry stem gall midge is a small mosquito that usually appears in May-June. Female mosquitoes lay their eggs under the skin of raspberry stalks. Larvae (worms) live inside the stem, feed on its pulp. At the site of introduction of the larvae, cones and outgrowths appear on the stem, inside which there is usually one larva, rarely 2-3. The stem at the site of the growth is easily broken. Sooner or later, nutrition stops coming to the top of the stem, the leaves wither, the shoots die off ahead of time, the crop dies.

Control measures: cutting off the affected branches, burning them; processing raspberries with mosquito repellents - infusions of tobacco, mullein, leaves walnut, bird cherry, nettle, wormwood, etc. Spray in the evening, as mosquitoes begin their activities at nightfall, all night.

How to deal with raspberry kidney moth?

Butterfly raspberry bud moth begins its vigorous activity during the flowering of raspberries - it lays eggs inside the flower. The caterpillar feeds on the juices of the flower, and then hides under the bark of the stem. In spring, the caterpillars penetrate into the kidneys, eat everything inside, and pupate there.

Control measures: spray during the swelling of the kidneys with a 30% solution of karbofos.

How to deal with leafworms, aphids and mites - raspberry pests?

leaf rollers

There are many varieties of leaflets. The common behavior for them is great mobility, when they are discovered, they begin to squirm violently and try to "escape" by descending on cobwebs. Leafworm caterpillars feed on leaves by buds. At the same time, the leaves are wrapped along the length or width of the sheet, which is why they are called leaflets.

Control measures: effective late-autumn and summer spraying with Actellik. In early spring, before bud break or in late autumn, spraying with preparation No. 30 is effective.

Aphid

Aphids suck juices from raspberry leaves, from shoots, berries. In this case, the affected leaves curl, the shoots stop growing. Aphids are dangerous because they are carriers of viral diseases.

Control measures. The drug Bi-58 is effective against aphids.

Ticks

A variety of ticks inflict great harm raspberries - the leaves turn pale, fall off, the berries remain small, tasteless. Late autumn in early spring before the leaves bloom, I advise you to treat the bushes with preparation No. 30, before the appearance of fruits - Bi-58.

How to deal with bacterial raspberry cancer?

It should be noted that almost all types of raspberries are unstable to bacterial cancer. It is impossible to save diseased plants; they must be destroyed. Measures for the prevention of seedlings before planting are relatively effective. Carefully select seedlings before buying, inspecting the roots - there should be no growths, thickenings. Drugs against bacterial cancer no raspberries yet. Do not plant it in place of plants removed due to disease for 2-3 years. The soil can be improved by planting legumes in this place for several years.

27 08.18

Why raspberries don't grow well?

Raspberries are a very tasty, juicy and fragrant berry that grows in almost every garden. Growing healthy and strong bushes, harvesting a good and tasty harvest is not as easy as it might seem at first glance. To do this, you must follow the rules for the care and cultivation of raspberries, be sure to know what raspberries do not like, what prevents them from bearing fruit well and prevents their proper development and growth.

Raspberries do not like shade. In order for raspberries to bear fruit well, it is necessary to choose the right place for planting it. Choosing the right place is half the battle. Many people make a huge mistake when planting bushes near a hedge, along a fence, or in the shade. garden trees. Great option there will be that part of the garden where the sun's rays fall for almost the entire day. Then the berries will be much more aromatic, juicier and larger in size, and the taste will be richer.

Raspberries do not like drought. Raspberries are very moisture-loving berries. If they gorge themselves on the fact that there is enough rain for watering raspberries, then you can not expect a plentiful and large harvest. Abundant and regular watering is the key to healthy and strong raspberry bushes and good harvest. It is necessary to water the bushes so that at least ten liters of water fall on one bush. But it is worth remembering that stagnant water also has a bad effect on raspberries, so watering must be controlled, or the roots may begin to rot and the bush will die completely. In order for the moisture in the soil to linger longer, it is necessary to mulch the soil around the bushes with rotten foliage, straw, peat or compost. This will help not only retain moisture in the soil for as long as possible, but also protect raspberry bushes from freezing in winter time of the year.

Improper planting of raspberry bushes. In no case should young bushes be planted in the place where old raspberry bushes have recently grown. Even if it is certain that all roots are removed from the soil, even the smallest few remaining roots can germinate and not only stifle new ones, but also lead to crossbreeding varieties, which is very undesirable. Therefore, it is best to plant bushes in a new place where raspberries have never grown before. Or choose rested soil.

Raspberries do not like acidic and clay soil. In order for the bushes to be strong and healthy, it is imperative to prepare the soil before planting. Introduce the necessary organic and mineral fertilizers. Raspberries are very fond of soil rich in potassium and sodium. therefore, it is necessary to saturate the soil to a greater extent with these microelements. In order for the soil to be less acidic, it is necessary to deoxidize it with chalk or lime. You can also add a little wood ash to the bottom of each hole.

Raspberries do not like tight spaces. It is necessary to regularly prune excess branches and shoots. This will enable sunbeams without any obstacles to get inside the bush, and raspberries feel more comfortable and bear fruit well. It is also mandatory to cut dried branches, they inhibit the growth of the bush and prevent the raspberries from developing well. Regular weed control is also a must, as they will not only take away from raspberries useful trace elements and moisture, but will also constrain it. Weeds can suffocate weaker bushes, from this the raspberries will lose young shoots and the yield will decrease significantly. If you take into account all the preferences of raspberries, then she will definitely reciprocate. Properly chosen place, prepared soil and proper care will give you the opportunity to grow strong and healthy raspberry bushes that will surely please long period fruiting and a plentiful harvest of delicious berries.

To the question, raspberries grow very poorly on the site. and changed the landing sites and fertilized. varieties are different. berries do not grow a little set by the author Adaptability the best answer is I also had a bad year three years ago, now the harvest has become better. She made the following conclusions:
1) raspberries like mulching with manure, lay around the bush no later than mid-June
2) loves watering
3) constantly remove excess around and weak shoots inside the bush - it reduces the yield by 50%
4) Pinching young shoots at the level of 1-1.2 m for tillering
Pay attention to raspberries and the harvest will be! And it takes at least 3 years for the bush to grow.

Answer from cunning[guru]
Raspberries love greasy soil, love to grow on compost, in places of old toilets. Hence the conclusion: plant raspberries in a trench with rotted manure. Fertilize, mulch with everything that comes across, cut frail shoots in May, after harvesting, cut off fruit-bearing shoots, cut the remaining ones to a height of 1.5-1.8 m.

Answer from VERA LUBIMOV[guru]
Raspberries do not need to be planted deep. She does not like digging the soil and weeds. Therefore, in spring and autumn, raspberries need to be mulched. Everything will do: rotted manure, compost, rotted
foliage, and necessarily - ash. Of course, the removal of fertile and weak shoots in the fall, the pinching of young shoots in August, you can carry out a second pinching in the spring, but not all bushes
respond. From personal experience- raspberries grow well near apple trees, conifers do not interfere with it either, but they are not friendly with mint, watering as needed, planting in the sun is also not necessary.

Answer from Irina Shabalina[guru]
Yes, raspberries love to eat and drink too, and how they love mulch !! ! And he can’t stand thickening, as well as digging under it and around the soil and even loosening, in response, he responds with abundant growth, instead of directing his forces to the harvest.
We have already uprooted the old raspberry tree, on which we gained experience, we planted the new one in this way ---- in autumn - after 0.7--1.5 m, depending on the characteristics of the variety, row spacing - 2 m, planting pits - to size roots, the seedling is planted strictly to the depth at which it grew before and is covered with a mixture of humus and soil 1: 1, watered and additionally mulched with humus up to 10 cm (it will settle by spring) and something else --- leaves, grass, etc. In the spring, add mulch if it is not enough to sow green manure between rows or plant something from vegetables. while the raspberries are gaining strength. For the first year of the row spacing (not the rows themselves), we sowed rye, mowed it all summer and poured it into the rows under raspberries. Raspberry is now 4 years old - entered full fruiting. We grind the cut shoots a little and leave them in place, like the leaves, pour them under the bushes in the fall to a bucket of humus, and in the spring we cover the raspberries with straw. Mulch protects both from overheating of the root and from drying out the soil, overheating provides nutrition. It is necessary to water it, in our conditions we pour three times thoroughly, otherwise the shoots begin to dry out ahead of time and the harvest does not noticeably reach. The number of shoots in the bushes must be normalized so that there is no thickening, usually 5-7 shoots, in the spring we cut off the crowns (in the spring you can see if the crown is frozen --- cut to a living)
As soon as the first buds appear, it is necessary to process from the weevil - 2-3 times (1 time per week). before flowering (phytofarms), without processing, you can lose most of the crop.

The gardener will collect a cup of raspberries in his garden and be satisfied. Many plantings quickly become thickets, crops fall, there are almost no berries. In such cases, they say that the raspberry has degenerated. And then they begin to replace the landings with new ones. The circle is repeated. Although at proper care raspberries can yield 5-7 kg per bush. Such a maximum yield for raspberries is, as it were, provided for by nature itself, help her a little, and she will thank you in full.
Raspberries in our summer cottages bear fruit more or less tolerably for two or three years, and then the yields fall. Meanwhile, it should begin to truly bear fruit only from the fourth year of planting. In the first year, the seedling may produce several berries and one strong shoot. In the second year, each planted plant grows 3-5 replacement shoots, by the end of the third - 8-12 shoots. And only from the fourth year of life, raspberries for the first time give full yields.

Root care

In order for raspberries to grow well and bear fruit, you must first take care of the roots. After all, not shoots, but only her roots are perennial. When purchasing planting material, it is necessary to ensure that the roots do not dry out. Dried roots do not take root well and if they do not die in winter, then they suffer for a long time. They create conditions from a young age. Roots need loose soil structure. Raspberries will not grow on clay, heavy soil. In places with close ground water(1-1.2 m) the roots of seedlings rot. IN this case I have to plant raspberries on mounds. A place for raspberries is chosen on a small gentle slope of the northern, eastern or western direction. The best planting time is the end of October - the beginning of November, or when the leaves begin to turn yellow on the apple trees. It is impossible to plant raspberries with unripened shoots and leaves, as the leaves evaporate moisture and the plant dries up. Therefore, before planting or immediately after purchase, they are sniffed or cut off. For planting raspberries, it is better to dig a trench at least 40 cm deep and fill it with humus, peat, compost with the addition of sand - the more the better. On sandy soils, if possible, manure or peat is brought under the bushes every year; on such lands, raspberries work best.

fertilizers

Likes raspberries nitrogen fertilizers- saltpeter or urea. It is better to bring them in early in the spring, still in the snow or in autumn, at the end of October - November, after the raspberries turn yellow and the leaves fall off. IN last case part of the fertilizer will be washed out by melt water or precipitation, but the plants will be stronger. I do the first dressing in early May, and then twice more, each time in two weeks. potash fertilizer raspberries require less, I bring in potassium chloride or ash in the second half of summer. Phosphorus fertilizers, according to my observations, have no effect. Apparently raspberries have enough of them in the ground and I don't use them. It is best to mix fertilizers, for example, add saltpeter to 1-2 buckets of manure humus and apply fractionally 5-10 kg per hundred square meters during the season. But we must remember that when overfeeding, the shoots ripen poorly and are more damaged by frost, pests and diseases gather on such bushes “with pleasure”. I believe that no one, except the gardener himself, can determine the rate of fertilizer. I usually determine by growth. If the growth of raspberry shoots over the summer exceeds 1.8-2 m, then I reduce the dose.

Watering

Raspberries are very responsive to watering. I believe that only due to this it is possible to increase the yield on our plantations by ten or more times. One day under my window country house somehow imperceptibly grew a bush of "runaway" raspberries - just in the place where rainwater flowed from the roof. The year was rainy, and this “fugitive” was so transformed that every time I came to the site every other day, I collected half a liter or liter jar full-fledged berries and even thought: why not propagate it? Of course, you can not turn plantings into a swamp. You can determine the need for soil in water like this. If the soil from a depth of 10-15 cm does not shrink into a lump, but crumbles, then you need to water it. In the dry period, when there is no rain for a long time, it is imperative to water every 10-15 days. So that the soil does not dry out, it is useful to mulch the plantings with peat, manure with a layer of up to 10 cm.

Trellis

Of great importance in obtaining a good harvest is the raspberry garter, for example, to the trellis. Without a trellis, the yield is halved. It is better and easier to install the trellis in the year the plantation is established. Without a garter, the bushes thicken, and their lower half remains without light and, accordingly, without berries, and the berries of the upper part touch the ground. In such shading, few flower buds are laid on young shoots and flowering next year will be weak. The advantage of the trellis is that such placement of plants facilitates the work of caring for and harvesting. Therefore, without a garter to a trellis or stakes (which is worse), growing raspberries does not make sense.

growth

Almost the same amount of crop is lost without the removal of shoots. According to Professor V.V. Kichina, “Growth is the enemy of raspberries”. She takes half of the plant nutrients. Therefore, when the shoots appear, they are removed with a shovel, pruning at a depth of 7 cm. Later pruning, especially digging up the shoots in autumn, damages the roots, weakens the main plant and significantly reduces the yield.

No more and no less

The formation of full-grown plants (from four years old) boils down to the fact that out of the grown 8-12 shoots in the bush, only 7 are left, no more and no less. If you leave 3-5 shoots, then the stems grow overgrown, 3 or more meters in height, which significantly reduces the yield.
Shoots are removed thinner than a simple pencil, diseased or damaged, as well as the thickest ones, because there are cracks at their base in which the larvae of the raspberry mosquito hibernate.
Fruited shoots of ordinary raspberries are cut out immediately after harvest. For varieties that produce few replacement shoots, the "double pruning" method is used. The first pruning is carried out when the shoots reach a length of 40–50 cm. They are shortened by 15 cm or half. After 2-3 weeks, 2-3 lateral shoots appear on the cut green shoot. The second pruning is done in the spring, during the swelling of the kidneys. The harvest on such plants ripens 15-20 days later, but raspberries look better, up to 40 berries of a larger size are formed on each shoot than on uncut ones.
In one place, raspberries grow well and bear fruit for 10 years, sometimes, with good care - up to 20-24 years. In general, it can grow 50 years. But excellent harvest gives until the rhizome at the base for some reason ceases to dry out. And until this happens, you can enjoy the sweet and fragrant berries raspberries.
Of course, the yield of raspberries largely depends on the varieties grown. I will tell you more about them.

New varieties of raspberries surpass the best old varieties by two or three times both in yield and, most importantly, in the quality of berries. Varieties of Professor Kazakov I.V. Shy, Balm, Hussar, Peresvet and varieties of Prof. Kichiny V.V. Kirzhach, Malakhovka, Lazarevskaya, Shosha, over the past 10 years, with normal care, they gave 2-3 kg of berries from a bush in the most different parts our country.

With increased care, these varieties can produce twice as much and, above all, they form more fruit twigs and almost all berries reach their varietal size.

Nevertheless, there are still many people whose old and new varieties of raspberries give 10 times less berries, and often do not give anything at all. Over the past 30 years, I have had to observe the same reasons for failures in many summer cottages, and it would be nice to give an analysis of them.

First and foremost. Raspberries must be grown only on a trellis, this has been proven by the experience of millions. Landing in even rows, when installing poles and wire, your raspberries are capable of producing 6-8 times every year more berries and at the same time you get the highest possible quality of berries. All your efforts are worthless if your green factory (raspberry plant) is not able to show its natural advantages and drags on its existence like a wild raspberry.

Second and very often. Raspberries cannot degenerate, it is biologically impossible. But a lot summer cottages, where raspberries are neglected thickets, and weakened diseased raspberry plants are called degenerate. There are many examples when gardeners put “degenerate” raspberries in order and again received productive bushes with large berries. It is necessary to re-mark the rows on the twine, in the row to hammer the pegs along the twine after 70 cm, destroy everything unnecessary left in right places plants need to get complete care, and in empty places (where there is nothing on the twine), plant the necessary seedlings.

It is necessary to constantly replant new seedlings in each row after 70 cm, and eliminate all excess raspberry plants. It is necessary to strengthen the growth of the main shoots in the center of the bush and in a year or two good care will bring your planting back to yield and berry quality.

Third and most common. Raspberry rows should be narrow, up to 30 cm wide, and there should be free space inside the row between the bushes.

The reason for the failure is that often raspberries are grown in a wide swath, where the plants you plant grow interspersed with a mass of plants from the undergrowth that have grown on their own.

The biology of raspberries is such that quite a lot of overgrowth always grows around the main plant. A raspberry bush is an overgrown seedling planted by us and a shoot around it. The shoot is also a raspberry, no one plants it, but every year it grows by itself. For the main crop, raspberry shoots are a weed, and as with any weed, it must be constantly fought. It is the growth that takes on more than 50% of all the nutrients extracted and produced by the entire raspberry plant.

In practice, raspberry shoots are the enemy of raspberries, which by themselves grow annually throughout the life of any raspberry planting. When no shoots are left on the raspberries, then all the main shoots of the raspberry bush are well illuminated by the sun from top to bottom, so the crop on them is also placed along the entire length of the shoot, and not just at the top of the shoot. The berries are well lit by the sun and blown by the wind, so they have much less fungal diseases and insects.

All these advantages you always see on your raspberry seedlings in the second year of life, when they still cannot be thickened and give a lot of berries all over the shoot from bottom to top. You must accustom yourself to the fact that you cannot have a large harvest if you do not constantly destroy the raspberry shoots. Destroy the shoots with a sharp shovel, cutting them at a depth of 3-5 cm in the ground.

If usually in the Kirzhach variety in a thickened planting 6-8 berries are formed on each fruit branch, then in the planting, where shoots are regularly removed, 8-14 and even 18 berries are formed on each lateral.

In the absence of growth root system works for the enhanced development of bush replacement shoots, the basis of the crop and its quality. The berries are bigger, sweeter and better executed. On each fruit branch (lateral), more berries are obtained, and more laterals are also formed on the shoot.

If we regularly remove the shoots, then on the plantation of the Kirzhach variety, from the first to the last harvest, the berries almost do not shrink, their taste remains typical sweet, and even in rainy weather there is almost no decay on the berries and they last longer in good quality.

In addition to common failures, it is useful to remember simple tips. Raspberry itself is such a crop that has a large fan of leaves above the ground, and the roots are only 10-20 cm in the upper soil horizon. That is why frequent drying of the soil greatly affects the "well-being" of the raspberry plant, and the raspberry shoots that have experienced bad situations next year give only 8-10 branches with berries instead of 30-35. It seems that there is no death of the bush, but there is almost no harvest. And then it is clear that the harvest of this year is very dependent on the life conditions of the shoot in the previous year, and therefore the poor care of this year is the foundation of a crop failure on next year. Such is biology.

Manure advice. The advice is very old and now, when there is almost no manure, it is necessary to try to give raspberries all the compost from the garbage heap, from the heap of rotted weeds, from the possible import of peat or any organic matter. Neither the apple tree nor the currant is so oppressed in the absence of organic matter, as it is striking in the raspberry. IN natural conditions in the absence of organic matter in the field, raspberries do not grow at all, but grow on the edges of the forest with an abundance of decayed leaves and other material. A person seems to know everything, but this is not enough, it is necessary to simply withstand the natural requirements of raspberries and mulch raspberry bushes with some kind of plant material.

Raspberries are spreading across the site. Such is its biology, it may not be necessary to do something against nature. Not such a big problem every year in May-June, walk twice and cut with a sharp shovel all the growth, wherever it occurs. It is not necessary to dig out every new shoot if you cut it near the ground. If some gardeners dig in slate, metal sheets and say that their raspberries do not creep, so at the same time they have deprived themselves of a bountiful harvest and will have best case only a small part possible harvest his raspberries.

We observe the potential of raspberries in the summer cottages of gardeners, who can rightfully be called academicians in their field.

These great connoisseurs of raspberries have learned in our soil and climatic conditions to get very high yields from an ordinary small-sized raspberry bush. So, in the summer of 2003, I took photos for a raspberry catalog on suburban area near Sheremetyevo airport. Powerful, well-developed bushes of varieties Patricia and Arbat had 7-8 kg of large berries good quality. Each bush had 7 replacement shoots with berries and 7 shoots for next year's harvest. From below, all the leaves were manually removed by 30-40 cm, which almost eliminates the raspberry mosquito. The owner of the site has long verified how much fertilizer, how much irrigation and what spraying against pests should be carried out in his specific conditions. He added with regret that near him the same planting material on their plot, his relatives receive only 0.5 kg per bush for the Patricia variety, but there is no increased (and even normal) care.

Not far from the city of Serpukhov near Moscow, at a summer cottage, I took photographs of a normal crop from a normal (medium-fruited) Kirzhach variety, where the plants are 22 years old and had more than 3 kg of berries per bush. It was rare to see that at such a venerable age raspberry bushes were with well-developed shoots and a crop that is rarely obtained even on young plantings. The light loamy soils and the location of the site on the slope contributed to longevity, and the regular application of manure maintained the good natural abilities of this variety. Only together these factors give such an unusual effect of longevity and high yield.

You will be amazed by the abundance of large berries on your raspberries, and of course surprise your friends and neighbors with something they have never seen before. Your facts will be convincing arguments of how science greatly changes our lives, even for small area the land of your cottage.

Professor, Doctor of Agricultural Sciences, Victor Kichina