Yellowed thuja needles. Why does thuja turn yellow. homemade bordeaux mixture recipe
Coniferous trees are unpretentious and durable. But even these mighty giants are subject to all sorts of diseases.
The article will tell about thuja diseases, why thujas turn yellow and how to treat them.
natural causes
The reason for the yellowing of the thuja can be hidden in many factors.
Below are the main natural reasons why the thuja turned yellow and withered, and its needles fall off.
- Darkening of the needles is observed in thuja trees at the end growing season usually in late autumn.
It looks like the tree is dying. But it's not. Thus, the thuja is protected from the cold and acclimatized to winter.
- One of the reasons for the change in the color of thuja needles was not proper care behind a freshly planted tree.
It is forbidden to water, move or expose a tree that has not taken root to bright sunlight. It is not recommended to allow animals such as dogs near the tree. They can damage the delicate roots, thereby ruining the plant.
Note: yellowing or browning of individual thuja branches at the bottom of the crown is a natural process. Withered shoots should be carefully removed by hand.
Thuja needles are tender and straight, the sun's rays leave burns on them. It is recommended to cover the tree, protecting it from direct rays. spring sun. To do this, use kraft paper, burlap.
Diseases
Consider the most common diseases of the thuja shrub:
- The most common cause of yellowing of the thuja is improper planting of the seedling.
The root neck is incorrectly located, too deep or, conversely, very close to the surface. The next most popular reason is when root system subject to decay.
Most often, the cause of decay lies in the pathogenic activity of fungi and microorganisms, such as aphids, bark beetles or mites.
- Root burns.
Excess fertilizer or lack of oxygen can cause burns to the thuja root system. Because of which the tree turns yellow, turns brown and withers.
The needles crumble. Small ties appear on the branches, which eventually turn into cones. They, in turn, adversely affect the tree's ability to reproduce.
- The damping of thuja is also a common cause of falling needles.
This happens as a result of planting trees too close to each other. Imitation. With this method of planting, there is insufficient air circulation around the plants.
How to treat
You can check if the tree has died in this way: bend the branch, the dead branch will break off, as it has already dried up, and the living one will bend.
It should be noted that all diseases coniferous trees easily cured if caught early. The fungus is treated with a solution of foundationazole.
Dilute 10 g of the drug per 10 liters. water and process the tree 2 times, with a break of 10 days. Affected processes are subject to immediate removal.
To exterminate insects, solutions of karbofos, actellik or fungicides are used.
Please note that when insect pests appear on a tree, it is important to prevent the formation of larvae. Otherwise, the treatment is useless and it will be impossible to remove the insects.
Prevention
First of all, you need to follow the rules and care for her.
Remember that before winter the soil is not fertilized. All land enrichment work begins in the spring, during the active growing season..
Provide proper training for winter.
- To do this, the roots of the tree are covered with foliage.
- The crown for the winter should be covered with burlap. Also recommended tall trees twist ropes. This will protect fragile branches from breaking off under the weight of snow.
- Also, do not forget to periodically shake the snow from the trees in winter.
When growing thuja, many gardeners are faced with such a problem as changing the color of the needles of this ornamental plant: it becomes ugly brown or yellow. The tree begins to dry, shed its needles and, in the end, may die. So why does thuja turn yellow? What are the reasons and what can be done to avoid it?
spring sunburn
This is one of the most common causes of discoloration of many conifers, including arborvitae.
In early spring, the snow on the site still lies in a rather thick, even layer, and the sun begins to bake more and more every day. The sun's rays are reflected from the snow cover like from a mirror, and their intensity also increases. After the winter, the thuja is weakened, its needles are very tender and sensitive, so the plant easily gets a sunburn.
What to do if the thuja has already received a sunburn.
If the thuja has already turned yellow, then a shadow and sufficient watering can save it. Do not worry, the plant will eventually come to life, grow new needles and acquire its natural color.
And in order to avoid similar situations in the future and protect the plant from the aggressive effects of spring sun rays, he needs to create comfortable conditions. At the end of winter, cover the thuja with sunny side spruce branches(spruce branches) or such a covering material that passes air well, but protects from light.
fungal diseases
coniferous plants susceptible to fungal diseases. In a diseased plant, the needles turn yellow and fall off. Therefore, immediately after the thuja was planted in the ground, it must be treated with a solution of foundationazole (take 10 g of the drug for 10 liters of water). This procedure can be repeated periodically to prevent the disease.
Dried branches of the plant must be cut off, and the cut itself should be smeared with a solution blue vitriol (5%).
Bordeaux liquid will also help to cope with thuja fungal diseases. But one procedure is not enough here. For preventive purposes, the plant must be sprayed at least 2 times a year: in early spring and before the first autumn frosts.
Aphid
Wrong fit
Experienced gardeners know that sometimes the thuja needles turn yellow and fall off due to the wrong planting depth of the tree. This is a very common mistake. When planting a thuja, its measles neck is often deepened or, conversely, exposed.
Care rules
No less important is the proper care of conifers.
After planting the thuja in the ground, it is necessary first of all to protect it from the sun, to create a shadow - a weakened plant needs strength to take root in a new place. Then the soil around the thuja needs to be mulched.
Watering
After planting in the soil, within 1 month, the tree must be watered once a week (10 liters of water per plant). In the dry period, watering is carried out more often, 2 times a week (15-20 liters of water per plant).
If the sun is very hot, then the thuja needles must be sprinkled with water. But on a hot afternoon, this cannot be done: water droplets on the needles turn into small lenses, and the needles can get a sunburn. Spray the plant in the morning or late afternoon.
If the thuja is grown in an area with a high level of groundwater, then the plant can do without watering.
Mulching
Soil mulching is carried out with compost, sawdust, peat or wood chips.
To avoid drying out and overheating of the soil in hot summer period or freezing of the soil in winter, a 5-centimeter layer of these materials is poured around the thuja.
Top dressing thuja
Thuja must be properly and timely fed with organic and mineral fertilizers.
Manure is most often used as "organics", it is poured with water (1: 4) and infused for two weeks. One plant requires 2-3 liters of this infusion. You need to pour it not on the base of the trunk, but on the soil around the tree. The larger the thuja, the greater should be the radius of the circle of cultivated soil.
As mineral fertilizers it is good to use preparations "Bioud" (for 1 tree 1 kg of fertilizer, used up to three times per season), "Kumir-universal" (for 1 square meter 120 g of the drug), "Epin" solution (for 5 liters of water 1 ampoule of the drug).
Important: before winter period the plant cannot be fed. Thuja is preparing for rest - the growth of shoots stops, they ripen. And top dressing will stimulate the growth of the tree, young shoots will go into the winter weak and may die. Therefore, August is the last month when the thuja is fed before wintering.
Pruning and decorative tree shaping
Dry branches of the thuja are pruned every spring, before the start of the vegetative process. This allows you to maintain the size and shape of the plant, which is especially important if the thuja is grown as a hedge.
The formation of the tree begins to be carried out as soon as it reaches right size. To keep the plant strong and viable, you need to cut off no more than one-third of the shoot.
Wintering
There is no need to shelter an adult, strengthened thuja for the winter. She is not afraid of snow and frost. However, heavy snowfalls can damage the dense crown of the plant. To prevent this from happening, at the end of autumn, in case of a snowy winter, the thuja crown can be strengthened. Large trees can be pulled together with a screed, thuja in the form of a ball - with twine. Tui, designed in the form of a column or pin-shaped, which have several tops, can also be slightly pulled together with twine.
However, it is necessary to provide shelter for young specimens planted in autumn, and also not to forget about shelter in order to protect against burns.
If you follow these simple advice, then you can grow a beautiful, strong decorative tree, which will become a worthy decoration of the garden.
If the appearance of a juniper or arborvitae indicates that the plant is drying up, get ready for a long process of restoring the health of the plant. It may take a year or even two. However, in any case, action must be taken immediately.
How to quickly bring thuja into proper shape?
To quickly reanimate the plant and save it from drying out, use the following instructions:
- Use a pruner to remove all reddish needles. Do not spare the thuja - even if you need to remove half of the crown, this must be done.
- Shorten the growing point from the crown by about 10 or 15 cm.
- Get acidic peat with a pH level of 3-4 and lay it in a thick layer on top of the soil. You can mix the peat with the soil a little.
- Together with peat, thuja must be fertilized with the Buyskoye coniferous preparation at the rate of 20 g of the substance for each plant.
- With the advent of spring, spray the plant with an aqueous solution of "Epin". After 10 days, the same procedure must be repeated using the Zircon fertilizer, and after another 10, treat the thuja with a solution of mullein at the rate of 0.5 cups of the drug per 5 liters of water.
- The restoration of the thuja will be noticeable at the end of summer. The needles will begin to turn green and actively increase in growth.
How to cut off thuja?
Bend the plant gently without effort. Dead and dry branches of the crown will easily break and fall off. Whole branches will be elastic and unlikely to break.
How to save thuja in winter?
In the living room, the thuja will dry in winter even with abundant watering. In cold weather, this plant is best moved to an area with the lowest temperature. Suitable for this bright rooms with temperature from +6 to +10°C or window sill. IN last case thuja should be placed closer to the window, regularly maintain crown moisture by spraying it every day.
How to save thuja in the southern regions?
In the southern regions, with the advent of spring, almost any coniferous ornamental plants need shelter to protect from sunburn. In addition, the plant needs land from under the trees. conifers. But one should not go to the nearest forest and mercilessly mine the soil of a living tree. Everything can be done much more humane - to rake a little earth from under several plants without destroying any one.
Land quality for thuja
It is preferable that the earth be mixed with needles. Do not try to collect clean soil. Coniferous plants exist only in close interaction with microorganisms, bacteria and fungi.
Consolidation of the result
Transfer to the garden
A well-groomed thuja can suffer during wintering and even remain completely naked. Regular care and spraying will give their result: the thuja will grow safely for many years.
Together with the services of pruning thuja, cutting thuja and scheduled annual maintenance, we at Garden Academy Moscow are engaged in the processing of thuja from pests. For example, if your thujas turn yellow on the outside or inside, turn brown, turn black or have manifestations of other thuja diseases or thuja pests, or if you decide to protect yourself in advance from the manifestation of diseases in thujas by protective treatment tuy - call us. Our specialists will find out the causes of diseases, draw up a treatment plan and solve this problem. Usually one, two or three treatments are required with a frequency of 7 days.
Why do thujas turn yellow and what to do?
There are many reasons for the yellowing of thuja needles. This can be due to various fungal infections, as well as other reasons completely unrelated to diseases. For example, in winter, a cold burn can occur, and in the spring, by the sun.
Thuja pests and other causes of yellowing of thuja will be discussed in this article. We will look at how to prevent yellowing of thuja needles and how to deal with pests.
Why does the needles of the thuja turn yellow. What is thuja sick about thuja pests.
Yellowing of thuja is not associated with diseases and pests. It should be remembered that for the winter, the thuja in the needles produces a special protective pigment of red color, which changes the color of the plant from slightly brownish to intense brown and even pinkish-bronze (depending on the type and variety of thuja).
Yellowing of the top of the thuja indicates insufficient receipt by it nutrients due to damage to the root system. This may be due to two reasons. The first reason is an excess of moisture at the level of the root system. This happens in conditions of stagnant water or high level ground water. The second reason is the defeat of the roots by fungal diseases (read on the page: thuja diseases).
Observation experience shows that most often thuja turn yellow due to excess moisture in the soil. For example, it is dangerous to plant thuja in low places where there is often water that accumulates there after snow melts or heavy rainfall. If you know in advance about the tendency of the soil to swamp and stagnant moisture, you need to either immediately choose another place for planting, or make good drainage in such soil in advance for the outflow of water. In conditions of overmoistening, the thuja needles turn yellow, as the roots lock up and rot. The process of decay extends to the bases of the skeletal branches and the plant inevitably dies.
If the thuja began to turn yellow in conditions of waterlogging, it is better to immediately transplant it to another place. According to one of the experts, the Smaragd thuja is capable of withstanding spring moisture stagnation in a water layer of about 10 cm for a week. True, about 5-10% of the Smaragd thuja dies under such conditions. However, the surviving plants still suffer in the future and are characterized by slow growth. A fungal soil infection is often additionally attached to the jamming of the roots, causing Fusarium or root rot. Of the preventive measures on stagnant soils, site drainage is used or right place for landing. Sick plants are transplanted, treated with a Bordeaux mixture or special preparations of a similar effect. In professional nurseries against root rot, spraying with a 0.2% solution of foundationol is used.
The next reason for the yellowing of the needles is its decay. We are talking about the decay of needles in those cases when the needles of the thuja turn yellow and die off due to poor breathability and lack of light in places where closely growing plants come into contact with each other or with a massive fence (solid wall or fence). In some cases, the decay of the needles is also associated with the removal of winter shelter too late. When covering with lutrasil, thuja will also spit. The needles in such places turn yellow, dry and easily crumble. As preventive measures, it is recommended to plant plants in time, observe the correct interval in advance when planting them, monitor the condition sheltered plants as the spring warms up.
You should not plant thuja too close to cast supports, walls or fences that do not have free spaces and that create continuous shade and drafts. The crowns of plants from the side of such supports turn yellow from exposure to winter drafts and lack of light.
Often we are faced with the fact that the thuja turns yellow inside, only around the trunk. Outside, the color of the shoots is normal. The yellowing of these areas is associated with insufficient light supply to them, as well as with a limited life cycle of needles (it lives up to 3-5 years). Yellowing of the thuja inside, practically does not affect it appearance, since this deficiency is hidden from the outside by densely spaced healthy shoots. The process of yellowing of the thuja inside is natural and is not associated with any diseases.
Often we can observe that our thuja has turned yellow under the rays of the spring sun. Then we can talk about sunburn of needles. Thuja burns are observed in early spring, with the beginning of the growing season, when the plant has already woken up and started to grow, but the developing needles have not received enough moisture due to the fact that frosts are still holding on and the earth has not had time to thaw. To prevent spring burns, it is recommended to shade sensitive species in the fall, especially since south side, and also do a good watering before winter, so that the needles absorb enough moisture. In addition to the above, it should be noted that different types thuja are susceptible to varying degrees sunburn. The most resistant in this regard is the western thuja, and the least resistant is the eastern thuja. If burns have already appeared, it will not be superfluous to make shading until the earth thaws. Can also be watered warm water and spray needles in the absence of sunlight. good effect gives spraying with zircon.
An increase in the dose of fertilizers recommended by the manufacturer leads to a supersaturation of the plant with microelements and is also the cause of yellowing of the needles of the arborvitae, and burns of the roots. Do not overdo it with top dressing! Use only special fertilizers for conifers. During the spring planting of thuja,
Insufficient iron content in the soil also leads to yellowing, sometimes whitening of thuja needles on various independent shoots. Similarly, red-violet color of needles can signal a lack of phosphorus in the soil, and chlorotic needles and slow growth of arborvitae - a lack of nitrogen in the soil.
Frost and winter drafts can also lead to damage to thuja twigs and yellowing of needles. Frost cracks are bark cracks that occur on twigs or trunk during simultaneous exposure to frost and sun. Depending on the location and depth of the lesion, the needles of the thuja may turn yellow, or may remain green. Frost cracks are treated with 3% solution of copper sulfate, then smeared with wood balm, garden pitch. Winter drafts lead to frostbite of parts of the plant, damaged branches turn yellow and die. Winter drafts are prone to plants growing near solid walls or fences.
If your thuja grows along the road and in winter the tips of its needles turn yellow or brown, and this mainly happened on the lower parts of the plant, then it is reasonable to assume that it was affected by special mixtures that road builders pour during this period in order to eliminate icing.
Mechanical damage to branches can be caused by the weight of snow or ice adhering to them, when branches bent to the ground not only deform the crown, but also break. Happens, big trees lose entire branches. This happens after heavy precipitation in the form of sleet or freezing rain. Adhering snow must be carefully shaken off with a long wooden stick. Broken and broken thuja branches will turn yellow.
The next reason why the thuja needles turn yellow is the lack of moisture in the soil. In a long dry period, all thujas need watering. Young and recently planted plants are especially sensitive to drying out of the soil. At first, the thuja fades due to loss of moisture, and then begins to turn yellow and dry (read below).
If the thuja turned yellow after planting.
1. Insufficient watering. Thuja at any age loves medium-moist soils and does not tolerate excess water. Ideally, the soil for it should always be moderately moist. So thuja develops better and grows faster. However, according to the definition of experts, thujas need mandatory watering after transplantation, during a long drought and in young age. This suggests that young and recently transplanted plants have a lower threshold for drought tolerance. As a matter of fact, the way it is. By the way, successfully accustomed plants after spring planting, may not survive a dry summer and require closer attention. It is enough to assess the state of soil moisture by touch and prevent it from overdrying.
2. Violation of landing technology. With insufficient deepening, the roots will suffer from drought and this can cause not only yellowing of the thuja, but also the death of the plant. During the planting procedure, the plant needs abundant watering. Abundantly pour not only landing pit, but spill through containers with plants. A clod of earth is also watered to a wet state, in which it does not fall apart. Some sources write that excessive deepening can lead to yellowing of the lower branches of the thuja, poor growth or fading of the plant, and even rotting of the roots. Such problems do not always happen, but you can fix the situation by freeing root collar in a circle from the excess layer of earth.
3. Broken branches during transportation. Damaged branches of the thuja will soon turn yellow and will have to be removed. The thinned sections of the crown will overgrow on their own over time, but they can also be closed with neighboring branches, securing them with wire in the right direction. To prevent such damage, plants must be properly positioned in vehicle. Also, the crown of the plant can be tied before transportation, although for many varieties of arborvitae this is not mandatory and depends on a number of factors.
4. Too long waiting for landing from the moment the thuja is dug out of the ground. During such a pause, in the absence of watering, the roots may dry out. When the roots dry, the result will not be long in coming: planted after a long waterless pause, your thuja will turn yellow partially or completely. Perhaps the plant will not die, but it will be much more difficult for it to take root. There is only one conclusion: a clod of earth should not dry out before planting, therefore it requires watering and proper storage. If the branches are still alive, and only the needles have suffered, remove the yellowed needles with your hands. Such branches may eventually become covered with new shoots.
Thuja turned yellow from pests.
Tui pests. The activity of thuja pests greatly weakens the plants and often causes their death. Thuja pests are thuja aphid, which is bred by ants, spider mites, gray larch leafworms, moths - moths, click beetles, bark beetles, thuja false shield, thuja beetle (stem pest).
Thuja aphid has a gray - brown color and is covered with a silvery coating. On closer inspection, this aphid on the thuja can be seen from the underside of the shoots. The aphid is an insect that sucks vegetable juice and lives in numerous colonies, so over time, its activity causes yellowing and falling of the needles.
You can process thuja from pests using soap solution. Processing with such a solution is repeated for at least two - three times every 7 - 10 days. If aphids are too numerous, insecticides should be used to control them. Be sure to destroy the anthills on the site, so the ants are engaged in settling aphids.
Moth larvae - moths gnaw through the tissue of the tips of the thuja shoots, making moves in them. On closer examination, on the affected parts of the plant, you can see the inlets and outlets, as well as tiny caterpillars. The butterfly itself is also very small (up to 4 mm), flies out at the end of May. The moth - the moth is a mining moth, it lays its eggs in the apical shoots of the arborvitae, from which the larvae emerge again in the spring. So annual life cycle the pest is repeated again. The needles of the thuja turn yellow and die.
If butterflies or larvae are found, it is necessary to mechanically remove them and the parts of plants damaged by them. In insect control, chemical insecticides are also used. To prevent the resettlement of the pest, in July, a double treatment should be carried out. by special means containing pyrethroids. The interval between treatments should be 8 days.
The gray larch leafworm is a small dark caterpillar. Affected shoots are characteristically covered with cobwebs. In some places, the cobweb connects the needles into a cocoon, inside each cocoon there is a caterpillar. Caterpillars emerge from eggs and after 3 - 4 weeks turn into pupae, and then into butterflies. The wingspan of a butterfly is 20 - 22 mm. Pine, spruce, larch are most often affected. With a large number of insects, the plant may die.
For prevention, plants are sprayed with insecticides in May - early June. If there were too many caterpillars, re-treat in the summer.
Beetles are click beetles, or rather their larvae are root pests that are in the ground. Eating the roots, they cause the thuja general weakness, stop growth, then the thuja turns yellow and dies. In the people, the larvae of click beetles are called wireworms. Having grown from larvae, the click beetle differs from others in the ability to roll over from its back to its feet, making a characteristic sound when jumping. The larvae develop in the ground for 3-5 years, grow up to 2.5 cm and, as they mature, begin to eat the thicker parts of the roots.
To destroy the larvae, the earth is watered with products containing diazinon. The appearance of larvae of click beetles is facilitated by acidification of the soil and its waterlogging, so these factors should be eliminated. It is useful to carry out preventive digging of the soil in the fall.
The spider mite is easy to differentiate from other pests by the presence of a thin web coating, which over time tightens large area crowns. This pest is most commonly found on Canadian firs. In the fight against spider mite help with insecticides.
bark beetle - very dangerous pest plants, affecting not only thuja. The pests themselves and their larvae eat the wood, gnawing through many passages in it. Plants affected by bark beetles die within a month. The size of the bark beetle is 0.8 - 9 mm and it has a lot of varieties.
When a thuja beetle appears, the plant must be treated with special insecticides. If there is little sense from them, it is better to destroy the plant by burning. This pest is somewhat similar in appearance to the bark beetle and makes small holes in the trunk. Sometimes you can see curved passages in the bark and small wood shavings fall off the tree.
If your thuja was struck by a false shield, then when examining the shoots of the plant, you will find rounded dark or light brown growths on them, very similar to buds. These are adult pests and their larvae. Adult false scale insects spend the winter in the litter, and their larvae hibernate in the bark of young shoots. The size of the false shield is about 3 mm. Thuja does not die immediately, but always significantly weakens its growth, and its needles first look dull, lethargic, then turn yellow, dry.
How to treat and prevent. To prevent infection, in early spring, as soon as the ground has thawed, a special caterpillar glue is applied to the base of the trunks, blocking the way up for insects. For the same purpose, you can wrap burlap around the trunks, since it plays the role of a trap. If there are few insects, it is enough to clean off the shoots from them by any mechanical means. With extensive infection, insect pests are destroyed with insecticides. A good result is given by Aktara's solution, which needs to be processed twice with an interval of 10 days. Actellik can be used in the same way. The treatment must be repeated in the summer (in the middle of July and in August) in order to prevent a new generation of larvae from developing. There is no need to list all the names of insecticides, since any garden center will help you choose the right one.
Now the thuja requires resuscitation to restore her health - this is mineral supplements, regular watering, as well as spraying and watering with growth regulators ( good results give zircon, epin).
*The exact price is determined by the photo or video. *Note - the cost of pruning thuja depends on the height and depth of the crown (width), on the diameters of the trunks and on the number of pruning edges ordered by the client.
Specialists in this service
If your thuja turns yellow and dries, then you do not need to immediately panic. In this case, it is very important to act patiently. The same thing happens quite often with juniper. In order to bring both of these plants back to normal, you will have, as they say, a little "tinkering". You won't be able to restore them quickly. Be prepared that for this you will need a whole year, and maybe even two. The term is quite large, but in order to reduce it, you need to start doing thuja quickly. Do not waste time, but immediately begin to improve your dried-up thuja.
Thuja turns yellow and dries. What should be done to help her?
First of all, it will be necessary to remove all dry and already seriously reddened needles from it. You can easily do this with a pruner. If you do not help the plant to remove these needles, then do not expect it to fall off by itself. So, your plant will never be able to clear itself. Here you need to boldly cut the thuja. It is quite possible that in the end the tree after pruning will look terrible for you, as it will lose almost half of its needles. But, you should not be afraid of this. You will also need to cut off the growing point, and besides this, also shorten the crown of the plant, about 10-15 centimeters.
Subsequent processing and feeding of thuja
In the next stage of plant restoration, you will need to purchase acidic peat. Its pH level should be 3-4 units. Such peat is poured in a good, thick layer under an already cut plant. Peat can be simply poured, or mixed with the soil, with its top layer.
Together with peat, fertilizer is also added, which will help the thuja recover faster. This is the drug "Buyskoe coniferous", the consumption rate of which, per plant, should be 20 grams.
