Secrets of the correct pruning of an apple tree at a young age. How to prune an apple tree in autumn
Apple tree in the photo
The apple tree is the most common fruit tree in Russian gardens, which is partly why it is considered a kind of "model" for pruning. The principles, techniques and rules for pruning apple trees, pears and other pome fruits, as well as stone fruits, are largely similar.
Proper planting of a seedling and caring for it is the first half of success. The second is the competent formation of the crown of a young apple tree. In most cases, sanitary pruning is carried out, its purpose is to remove damaged shoots and roots. If the root system is poorly developed, then the shoots must be shortened in order to equalize the aboveground and underground parts and increase the chances of the tree to live in a new place. If planting or transplanting a tree is carried out in the fall, then pruning (with the exception of sanitary) must be postponed until the next spring so as not to reduce the winter hardiness of the plant. If the seedling has not completed leaf fall, then he will have to help - remove the leaves manually or with a pruner.
Before you properly prune young apple trees, keep in mind that its degree depends on the age, variety and condition of the seedling. Usually these are annual, biennial, three-year-old trees. An annual seedling should have a mature stem and a normally formed apical bud. It should not have leaves.
Large-sized birds take root very poorly, and if they survive at all, they are delayed in development for a long time. The reasons for this are most often objective. Transportation, a sharp change in conditions are the strongest stressful situations for big plant. The problem is exacerbated by the location of nurseries, as they tend to be located where the trees grow faster, that is, in areas with a milder climate. As a result, your large apple tree may be at risk of winter damage.
With proper pruning, a young apple tree often forms a sparse-tiered or tiered crown - they are easy to maintain and correspond to the biological characteristics of the trees. Most often, a sparse-tiered and tiered crown is chosen for trees on vigorous and medium-sized rootstocks. The difference is that in a tiered crown, all branches extending from the trunk are skeletal and enter the tiers, while the sparse-tiered crown is less “strict”, and the tiers of branches alternate with semi-skeletal branches extending from the trunk.
Before you properly form the crown of a young apple tree, familiarize yourself with the sequence of actions proposed below, or, as fruit growers say, with the procedure for removing the crown.
With the normal development of the tree, every year, starting from the second year of the tree's life, a new tier of 3-5 branches is laid. If the length of the leader or the continuation shoot is insufficient, the laying of the next tier is postponed a year later.
See a photo of how to properly prune an apple tree at a young age:
Creating several tiers when pruning and shaping apple trees is a somewhat cyclical process. To stimulate branching and good development future skeletal branches, the top of the continuation shoot is shortened and this operation is repeated when laying each next tier. The distance between the tiers depends on the type of rootstock and the characteristics of the variety (for trees on a dwarf rootstock it is less than for vigorous ones) and is 50-70 cm, the upper tiers can be placed a little closer to each other (lower limit - 40 cm). When pruning and forming an apple tree, the optimal distance between branches included in one tier is 20-30 cm. Branches in adjacent tiers should not be located one above the other. The central conductor or continuation shoot should be 15-20 cm higher than the branches of the last tier (in practice, this means that its top should be that much higher), and if necessary, the branches and (or) the central conductor are shortened.
The decision on how to form a crown at an apple tree and how many tiers to make is made by the gardener himself, guided by the convenience of harvesting and carrying out agrotechnical measures.
The video of pruning a young apple tree shows how to form a seedling:
Usually, when pruning to form the crown of an apple tree, 3-4 tiers are laid, in this case the height of the tree on a vigorous rootstock is about 4 m, on a dwarf rootstock - 2-2.5 m. When the tree reaches the desired height, growth is limited - the central conductor is cut out on translation.
An annual seedling looks like a thin twig with roots, less often with the first thin branches, it depends on the variety and how the seedling was cared for in the nursery. The "fat" and powerfully branching one-year-old seedling is either overfed with fertilizers or was grown in the southern regions.
Its winter hardiness in the middle lane is quite problematic. Perform if necessary sanitary pruning- both the aerial part and the root system. If the seedling is purchased with an open root system, it is especially important to equalize the underground and aboveground parts.
Pruning of annual apple tree seedlings after planting is carried out at a height of 80-100 cm in order to stimulate the growth of lateral branches - these are the future skeletal branches of the first tier.
All buds and branches (if any) from ground level to the first tier of skeletal branches are removed - this is the bole zone. A stem that is too low will hinder tillage, harvesting, and other operations, while a stem that is too high can suffer from sunburn.
If the seedling already has branches, then when pruning an annual apple tree, we outline those that will create the first tier - there should be 3-5 of them, directed in different directions. If there are no branches yet, then 5-8 buds are added to form the first tier (this amount is taken with a margin). One more kidney is left - it should be located above the tier and look in the direction opposite to the bend in the budding zone, so that in the future the trunk is even. A continuation shoot will grow from this bud - it will replace the leader shoot, and in order for the trunk to be even, it is tied to a peg. It is possible to leave a spike from the removed leader shoot as a temporary support, and cut it off completely when the continuation shoot is fixed in a vertical position.
In the process of how to properly cut annual apple tree, remove all branches that form an acute angle with the trunk, the rest are shortened by 3-5 buds. This is done for them. better development and branches.
These photos show how to prune an apple tree at one year of age:
Pruning and shaping the crown of a seedling of a two-year-old apple tree (with video)
A two-year-old seedling begins to branch without fail. When pruning and forming the crown of a two-year-old apple tree, a strong shoot is grown from the uppermost bud, which will become a continuation of the leader shoot - it is better to tie it up so that the emerging stem is even. If there are competing shoots at the top of the seedling, they are either removed while they are still small, or carefully bent and fixed. Branches extending from the trunk at an angle of less than 45 degrees are an unsuitable candidate for the role of skeletal ones: they can be cut out, or you can try to bend them with the help of spacers and stretch marks. While the branches are thin and flexible, optimize the angle of their departure from the trunk. The older the tree, the more difficult it is to do this, and in an adult tree it is simply impossible.
Any fixation of the branches in the desired position must be mobile so that the crown is not broken by the wind - but also strong enough to achieve the desired result. For the winter, spacers and stretch marks are removed, and in the spring, if necessary, they are returned to their place.
When pruning seedlings of a two-year-old apple tree, branches growing between tiers can be shortened and bent at an obtuse angle, then they will give the first fruits faster. Subsequently, they are removed if a longline crown is selected.
The side branches of a young apple tree are left, even if they are to be removed in the future. This approach contributes to the formation of a downward expanding and, as a result, stable trunk. Extra branches when pruning a two-year-old apple tree are removed gradually. First, they are shortened, and after a year or two, when the tree has enough other branches and leaves, they are completely cut out.
Shoots that will have to turn into skeletal branches are shortened to stimulate branching. The degree depends on the condition of the branches and their planned length - the bottom branches should end up being the longest, so they are often cut more heavily than the top ones. And although at first the crown will be, as it were, “inverted”, further growth shoots will put everything in its place, because strong shoots will grow on a heavily pruned branch. Small branches extending from the skeletal branches are preserved - these are overgrown, on which the crop will form in the future.
The video "Pruning a two-year-old apple tree" shows how this work is done:
How to prune three-year-old apple trees in spring
A three-year-old tree branches "in all directions", and new skeletal branches are also laid in it. The branches of the first tier, planted last year, are covered with branches of the 2nd order. If necessary, remove or bend the branches. Lay the second tier at a distance of 50-70 cm from the first - so that the branches of the second tier are in between the branches of the first tier.
When pruning three-year-old apple trees, we follow the rule of subordination of branches - the higher the branch is located, the shorter it should be - this is the only way the entire crown will be evenly illuminated. Branches of subsequent orders should be shorter and located lower (the conductor is 15-20 cm higher than the branches of the 1st order, the overgrown branches are shorter than the branches of the 1st and 2nd order). The crown of the tree must fit into isosceles triangle, facing the base to the ground, ideally, each skeletal branch also fits into an isosceles triangle, facing the base to the trunk. The branches of one tier are usually equalized, that is, pruning of the branches of a three-year-old apple tree in spring is done at the same height. If the height of the branches is not the same, then the one whose growth point is higher grows more actively. This technique can be used to stimulate or limit the growth of individual branches in a tier.
And how to properly prune apple trees at the age of three, if the branching of the trees is active, and there is good growth? In this case, you can cut the branches scheduled for removal in the previous season.
Technique for pruning a four- and five-year-old apple tree
The pruning technique for a four-year-old apple tree is carried out in a similar way: the third tier is laid, excess branches are removed.
And how to do spring pruning of apple trees that have reached the age of five? A five-year-old tree is considered to be formed, at this age modern varieties usually bear fruit, from this moment the tree can be called an adult. It has 3-4 beautiful and durable tiers. Often the tree has already reached the desired height. If necessary, its further upward growth can be limited. To do this, with the correct pruning of apple trees, the central conductor is removed by pruning for translation - on a well-located branch. If the height of the tree is insufficient, we lay one tier per year until the result satisfies us, and only then we cut out the central conductor.
Remember that the indicated sequence of actions when pruning young apple trees for beginner gardeners is only a guide, and not a hard set of rules. If for some reason the tree develops poorly, then it is not scary to postpone the laying of tiers or pruning a year or two later, and during this time to eliminate shortcomings in agricultural technology.
Pruning and shaping the crown of young apple trees: videos and tips for beginners
Cupped (or vase-shaped) crown shape is quite popular. Its removal is very simple - one tier of branches is laid at the desired height (usually the trunk is low, no more than 50 cm, and in a tier there are 3-4 branches arranged symmetrically) and the central conductor is removed. At the apple tree, it is cut out as early as possible (for stone fruits, after 2-4 years). To make the bowl beautiful, you will need a lot of space and, perhaps, a garter of branches. Usually such a crown is chosen for trees on dwarf rootstocks. Its advantage is good sun exposure. Further actions apple tree crown formation is quite simple - timely removal of tops that will often appear on skeletal branches, as well as extra branches, especially those directed inside the crown, sanitary pruning. It should be remembered about the rule of subordination when laying the branches of skeletal branches - the closer to the trunk, the longer the branches should be.
In English gardens, you can often find apple trees that have only one tier of skeletal branches, and the central conductor has been removed. Because usually in orchard the trees are planted tightly, the skeletal branches will sooner or later begin to grow upwards. It turns out not a bowl, but rather, a "glass" on a high leg, and not always symmetrical, but not without charm.
To improve the illumination of the adult crown, some of the branches are sometimes removed so that the crown, rounded in plan, becomes lobed.
The spindle-shaped crown, or spindlebush, is easy to breed and quite spectacular. Semi-skeletal branches are laid on the trunk, arranging them in a spiral, and the height of the tree is usually limited to 3 m. With the help of stretch marks, the branches are given close to horizontal position(in different modifications, the angle of departure of the branches may be smaller, and the length is different). This type of crown is only suitable for trees on low-growing rootstocks.
A slender spindle, or grusbek, is also a compact crown. It is displayed on a low trunk, the central conductor is usually cut out at a height of 2.5 m, and the entire crown is formed by short horizontal overgrowing branches. Outwardly, this form resembles a columnar apple tree and is suitable for trees on dwarf rootstocks.
In harsh conditions, for example, in Siberia, it is necessary to increase the winter hardiness of fruit trees by any means.
And how to prune apple trees of dwarf varieties? In such trees, the crown is formed in a bushy form (6-8 skeletal branches, the lower ones are located in one tier, the rest are singly, all branches of the second order are shortened).
Since damage to the stem is most dangerous in severe winters, the most common is a low-stem bushy crown with a stem height of no more than 30 cm. In this case, the snow cover becomes a natural shelter, a “warm blanket”.
The slate form is used in the most severe climatic conditions. It is characterized by the absence of a pronounced trunk and horizontally located skeletal branches, literally lying on the ground. Such a crown completely hibernates under a snow cover.
The video "Pruning apple trees for beginners" clearly demonstrates how to form a crown of trees:
Artificial types of crown formation in apple trees
Mold gardening is the creation of artificial crown forms with high decorative qualities. They can be either flat (palmettes, cordons) or voluminous, often symmetrical. Artificial crown forms are associated with gardens in regular style(so, in England rare Brick wall not decorated with fruit or decorative tree, formed in the form of a palmette or cordon, and in France, artificial forms often adorn the famous French ornamental gardens with beds bordered by boxwood borders).
In addition to decorating the walls, artificial forms make it possible to achieve fruiting from more southern varieties (a brick wall accumulates heat and creates a favorable microclimate, a concrete wall, on the contrary, is very cold and contributes to the freezing of plants). Artificial forms usually bear fruit faster than traditional ones, and although the total number of fruits is not always large, all fruits are of excellent quality, because they receive a lot of sun. This perfect solution for a garden or its fragment in a regular style - or just a highlight of your site. Several identical flat shapes (trees can be different varieties) on a common frame - a variant of a compact green wall for zoning the garden space.
For shaped gardening, only trees on dwarf or semi-dwarf rootstocks are suitable, and always with an annular type of fruiting. They will need regular pruning, most often several times a season, and a reliable frame for life, because for all their beauty, such forms do not resist the elements well. Branches that protrude beyond the crown are shortened, cut or tied in the desired direction. To control the strength of growth and for better branching, annual growths are regularly pinched. The branch is usually removed in parts, since the number of leaves in artificial forms, especially at a young age, is small.
Artificial forms of the crown can also be voluminous, from an apple tree you can even create a covered alley - berso.
It can be said that such types of apple tree formation in horticulture are akin to the Japanese art of bonsai, but, unlike it, it seeks not to imitate nature, but, on the contrary, to subdue it, although the techniques are very similar, the main one being pinching. By the way, Japanese and Chinese masters create bonsai from fruit trees, this is considered a sign of high professionalism.
In a palmette, all branches are located in the same plane, and their direction can be from horizontal to oblique and articulated, the number of tiers also varies depending on the type. Palmettes are usually symmetrical crown variants with a well-defined central conductor. Each tier of branches needs a horizontal frame element, most often it is a thick wire or a strong rail.
A cordon is a straight trunk (it can also be inclined), as if running along a stretched rope (the name of the form comes from the French corde - rope), covered with a small number of short overgrowing branches. Cordons are compact, so a whole collection can be placed in a relatively small area. Outwardly, the cordons are somewhat reminiscent of columnar apple trees, but the former have a compact habitus due to regular pruning, the latter due to their biological characteristics.
It is not always possible to achieve the perfect symmetry of an artificial shape with the help of trimming. Vaccination comes to the rescue - if in right place there is no kidney or shoot, then it can be artificially grown.
For stone fruit crops, a strict crown plane is undesirable, therefore, skeletal branches are oriented, as a rule, at an angle of 15-20 degrees to the row line.
Proper pruning of an adult apple tree in spring
Finally, your tree is already mature and has begun to bear fruit. At this stage, it is especially important to extend its "full life" and increase productivity. Ideally, the period of supporting or regulating pruning of adult apple trees lasts for decades.
This type of pruning keeps the crown in the right sizes, fights with its thickening, regulates the light and air regime, prevents the branches from being exposed, especially in the central part, and thereby increases the laying of fruit formations.
It is important to carry out maintenance pruning of adult apple trees regularly in the spring. They paused - and the growth of the tree is out of control, you have to cut a lot and hard, after which the struggle begins - you cut, and the tree stubbornly strives to return the lost volume, for example, forms a lot of tops. As a result, both you and the tree expend a lot of energy.
The normalization of flowers and ovaries also applies to maintenance pruning. Plants always lay flowers "in reserve", in some years only every tenth flower becomes a fruit. Therefore, the ovary trees are shed - first of all, unfertilized and damaged ones. If the dimensions of the tree allow and if you have enough patience, you can normalize the ovaries - removing some of them. As a result, there will be fewer fruits, but they will be larger and of better quality, and the tree will save its strength. The normalization of flowers is carried out during full blooming (although many gardeners are very sorry to destroy the apple blossom with their own hands), the normalization of the ovaries is carried out as early as possible, immediately after flowering. You can completely remove the flowers and ovaries on part of the inflorescences, you can leave the best and most developed in each inflorescence. In the apple tree, this is the central flower in the inflorescence.
When the crop is large, the branches may not withstand the load and break, especially old varieties with periodic fruiting suffer.
The best treatment is prevention, so the supports are placed in advance, while the fruits are still small. After harvesting, the supports are removed.
Watch a video on how to prune an apple tree as an adult:
Tips for proper anti-aging pruning of an old apple tree (with photo and video)
If a young tree is formed correctly, then for many years it will only need sanitary and supporting pruning - removing extra branches and limiting the size of the crown. However, sooner or later there comes a point when the tree begins to age.
The signal for rejuvenating pruning of old apple trees is the reduction in the length of annual growths. For trees on vigorous rootstocks, the critical value is 15 cm. If the tree is mature and regularly bears fruit, it expends a huge amount of energy on fruiting, and growth is “financed according to the residual principle,” so the length of annual increments decreases. In an advanced case, young fruit formations no longer arise, and the old ones have exhausted their resources - you will be left without fruits, and an oppressed and weakened tree may die. The task of the gardener is to help the tree maintain an optimal balance between growth and fruiting.
Many trees are trying to "regain lost youth" on their own with the help of spinning tops. If the tops are well located, you can form new branches from them, and gradually remove the old ones.
However, in most cases, the tree needs serious help. As usual, first they carry out sanitary pruning of old apple trees, then rejuvenating. To do this, the branches are shortened to the site where the length of the growth was full, and the bare and unproductive ones are also cut out. With a high probability, the tree will respond to such an intervention with the rapid growth of tops, especially near the cuts - sleeping buds will wake up. This is what they are trying to achieve - now it is possible to form new, young and strong branches from the strongest and most well-located tops. The rest of the tops, with the correct pruning of old apple trees, are removed, and the sooner the better. In case of doubt, you can pinch the growing top and solve it further fate during spring pruning next year.
As you can see in the photo of pruning old apple trees, many large branches are removed during this work:
Therefore, it makes sense to stretch such rejuvenation for 2-3 seasons. You should not save on watering and top dressing, in addition, young growths should be carefully and regularly examined - a tasty morsel for various sucking and leaf-eating pests.
Sick trees with severe damage to the trunk and skeletal branches do not rejuvenate.
Another tip for pruning an old apple tree is to combine a rejuvenating crown shaping with a rejuvenating root pruning. To do this, along the periphery of the crown, they dig a trench 30-40 cm deep and 40-50 cm wide and fill it fertile soil and organic fertilizers, as well as regularly watered. As a result, many young, actively working roots are formed in this zone.
The task of restorative pruning is to restore the ability to bear fruit. For this, new fruit-bearing branches are brought up for several years, mainly by pruning for translation into horizontal branches, and then the old ones are removed.
Watch the video "Pruning old apple trees" to better understand how to care for such trees:
How to prune an old apple tree
What to do if you, along with the site, got an old tree that has not seen a pruner or a hacksaw for a long time or at all? How to prune an old apple tree to prolong its life?
You can leave everything as it is. In nature, trees without any pruning live to an advanced age. But still, pruning is a way to improve the health and longevity of a tree, as well as a way to give it a presentable appearance. In neglected gardens, many fruit trees similar to a "nest" of closely spaced branches on a high stem. Their crown is raised high so that light penetrates into the near-stem circles, and something else could be grown under the apple tree. Especially often such a picture can be seen in small areas.
Before pruning an old apple tree, you need to give an abandoned tree a decent look, and for this you must first remove all the "dangerous" branches. After that, proceed to sanitary pruning. Slowly, gradually cut off all the diseased and dead. Focus on the middle of the crown - there are usually a lot of dry branches hiding there. As a rule, in neglected old trees, sanitary pruning is large-scale, and upon its completion, amazing changes occur in the crown.
In the next step, to prune the old apple tree, you need to remove the extra branches. There is no need to rush here. It is better to pause, take your mind off the tree and do other things. Perhaps even postponing everything until the next season, this has its advantages. Sometimes it is important not to overdo it - perhaps you should make an exception to the rule for some specific branches - in order to subsequently strengthen a weak branch, direct pruning to translate the further growth of the branch in the right direction, leave a spinning top to grow a fruit-bearing branch from it. It is quite possible that pruning will have to be extended over two or three seasons (no more than a quarter of the branches are removed in one year). The decision will have to be made for each specific cut.
Therefore, it is better to clean off lichens from the trunk and skeletal branches. The easiest way to do this is after rain - they are easily scraped off with a thick mitten or a dull knife. In addition, when the old bark is removed before autumn whitewashing, lichens are automatically disposed of. In severe cases, spraying with a 10% solution can be applied. iron sulphate is a very high concentration that causes chemical burns. Therefore, such processing is carried out only when the tree is at rest, always on a calm day, not forgetting all the safety measures that are necessary when working with toxic substances.
Green or brick-colored plaque, usually found with north side large branches or trunk - these are unicellular algae. They are not dangerous and only indicate high humidity air. Improving ventilation and thinning the canopy helps reduce algae. Again, removing the old bark before whitewashing solves this problem as well.
Different varieties of apple trees have their own pruning characteristics.
Varieties with weak branching and low awakening of the kidneys (Cinnamon striped, etc.). The branches are "bald", with weak branching, fruits are formed only in their upper part.
Pay attention to the photo - pruning of apple trees of such varieties is carried out medium or strong in order to enhance branching and reduce the number of dangerous forks with sharp corners:
Such varieties require more radical anti-aging pruning.
Antonovka ordinary in the photo 
Borovinka in the photo
Varieties with weak to moderate branching and good bud awakening(Antonovka vulgaris, Borovinka and etc.). The periodicity of fruiting on kolchatka is characteristic. Stimulate the formation of overgrowing branches on skeletal and semi-skeletal branches.
Pepin saffron in the photo 
Melba in the photo
Varieties bearing fruit on fruit twigs (Pepin saffron, Melba and etc.). Growths are shortened to increase branching and form more overgrown branches.
Renet Simirenko in the photo 
Autumn striped in the photo
Varieties with high shoot-forming ability (Renet Simirenko, Autumn striped and etc.). Regular thinning is required.
Apple trees on dwarf rootstocks in most cases require minimal formative pruning, especially if the varieties themselves have moderate branching. In most cases, apple trees on dwarf rootstocks respond well to anti-aging pruning.
This video shows pruning apple trees of different varieties:
Correct pruning of a columnar apple tree (with video)
Recently fashionable columnar apple trees require correct pruning, not the same as used for other species. Often, columnar apple trees do not need pruning at all, because usually it undersized varieties. A feature of columnar apple trees is very short growth and the presence of annulus on all branches, including skeletal branches (if any), and even on the trunk!
In order to direct all the forces of the tree to fruiting, in the middle of summer, long growths of the current year are pinched. If this is not done, the apple trees lose their strict columnar appearance, overgrow with long skeletal branches and get something similar to a tree on a dwarf rootstock, only with a rarer crown. When the apical bud is damaged or removed, several strong shoots grow: if there is enough space, you can leave those that are well located. This option has a right to exist. But if the "column" was acquired for a different purpose, and there is not enough space, then you will have to choose one shoot and greatly shorten the rest.
Often, gardeners, acquiring a columnar apple tree, dream of a “stick” strewn with large bulk apples. Alas, small size fruits - a varietal feature, pruning and top dressing will not make the fruits larger. On the other hand, breeders have taken care of compensation - apples are easy to pick, they have a rich aroma and dessert taste.
This video shows the pruning of columnar apple trees on personal plot:
IN last years the apple tree has become a popular ornamental crop, and many varieties are commercially available, usually small-fruited, with varying overall tree appearance (or) color of flowers and leaves. Pruning decorative apple trees will need to be different, its nature depends on the shape of the crown. However, in any grafted forms, shoots that appear below the grafting site are removed decisively and immediately.
Nedzvetsky's apple tree in the photo 
Nedzwiecki's apple tree with bright raspberry flowers in the photo
Nedzwiecki's apple tree attracts not only with leaves with a purple tint of varying severity, but also with bright crimson flowers. The fruits of this species are quite large, and from the apple trees traditionally grown in gardens, they differ mainly in an unusual, dark, color. The formation of an apple tree of this species is exactly the same as the home apple tree we are used to. The same is true for large ornamental varieties having a classic crown shape.
The spherical shape of the Nedzwiecki apple tree in the photo
Spherical forms grafted on a tall trunk require minimal pruning. Remove all rootstock shoots, sanitary pruning if necessary and maintain correct form crowns.
The now popular weeping apple trees will require a different approach. These are also grafted apple trees on a high trunk. In order for the "umbrella" to be thick and beautiful, regular pruning is required with beautiful name"candelabra". Look closely - weeping branches form an upward bend at the very top. There we cut off on the kidney directed upwards. Below this kidney should remain at least two or three. Thus, strong weeping shoots will grow from the remaining buds, and the "umbrella" will be strong and durable. In order not to deprive yourself of joy, you should not “stupefy” a tree every year. If you want to admire decorative flowers and the fruits of your apple trees, you will have to cut the crown in parts.
Theoretically, a trimmed hedge can be made from an apple tree, but why? Indeed, in this case, you will have to forget about flowers and fruits.
A good orchard is sure to have apple trees. And to get beautiful large and delicious apples you need to grow them properly.: fertilize the soil, clean it of weeds, dig in and water the plant regularly, cut it off in a timely manner.
Let's talk about the subtleties and some of the nuances of the correct pruning of an apple tree and the formation of a beautiful healthy tree.
The apple tree is considered one of the most persistent among horticultural crops. Pruning is carried out from the beginning of the warm season, the end of February and until May, during the period of relative dormancy of the tree, when there is no threat severe frosts. Of course, local climatic conditions region. Pruning is possible up to the flowering period, the main thing is to carry it out, observing strictly all the requirements.
Pruning of apple trees is carried out:
- Spring before bud break to improve the condition of the tree and its fertility;
- During the summer rejuvenating “pruning without a knife” is used: pinching and breaking out shoots, bending, etc.;
- autumn after the leaves have fallen.
Be sure to take into account the individual characteristics of the development of individual varieties.
What is the purpose of pruning a tree?
- For young tree (5-7 years) its crown is being formed and the future harvest is being rationed;
- For an adult conditions are created for good illumination of the crown and sufficient nutrition of potentially productive quality plots;
- Sanitary pruning for cleansing from damaged and diseased branches is carried out at any age.
Benefits of pruning in spring
What period is most appropriate for pruning is determined primarily by the direct utility for the plant.
In spring, trees are easier to tolerate various operations, which will be facilitated by the sap flow of the apple tree.. And the gardener has enough time to complete the entire procedure with high quality and accuracy.
In autumn, pruning of branches provokes the beginning of growth, and this occurs at a time when the tree is about to fall asleep. Such actions can significantly weaken it. During leaf fall (except in the southern warm regions), there is a high probability of a sharp drop in temperature. If pruning is done on the eve of frost, this can lead to wounds in the places where the tree is processed.
Removal of unnecessary branches from young apple trees begins before the buds swell. From spring to early summer inclusive, you can work out a columnar apple tree.
After wintering, be sure to pay attention to the removal of frostbitten, dry, broken branches, both on young and adult apple trees, forming a good and healthy crown.
Benefits of pruning in the fall
Many have doubts about the autumn correction of trees. So, of course, apple trees are pruned in the fall. And this is advisable only with a thorough approach and knowledge of the matter.
When performing this procedure In autumn, be sure to take into account the weather conditions. Do it on warm sunny days, then the tree will better perceive it.
Do not prune when it is raining, cold and overcast. This creates the preconditions for diseases of trunks and branches due to the multitude of all kinds of microbes on them.
On mature and old trees, dead, weak, too heavy side branches are cut, and the crown is thinned out. Shoots bent down to the ground are left, young branches that are too stretched upwards are cut as low as possible.
The following types of pruning of apple trees are used:
- Sanitary. Mostly on old trees, dried and damaged branches with signs of disease are removed;
- Formative. It is produced in young trees to create a well-groomed crown (with an interval of 4-5 years);
- Structural. Branches that touch, cross, interfere with, grow incorrectly, or interfere with the growth of neighboring trees are removed;
- Anti-aging. It is carried out for old, poorly productive trees, it is carried out every 4 years.
You need to know how to correct the apple tree or, as they say, "what and how much to cut." Depending on your individual goals and objectives, and, importantly, what you want, you yourself choose what kind of pruning to do. Weak, medium or strong.
How to prune an apple tree yourself?
This question is asked by both experts and beginners. And beginners are also afraid to start doing it on their own. But you don't need to be afraid. Having familiarized yourself with the basic rules, having talked with familiar gardeners, it is better, if possible, to see how they do it on their site. Pruning on your first tree under the supervision of an experienced connoisseur will give you confidence. Then it will capture the excitement and interest. And you will do the trimming yourself and share your experience already.
And start with fundamentals and techniques for pruning the crown of an apple tree:
- At a vigorous apple tree leave 75 cm stem (main trunk);
- At undersized- 55 cm. 6-7 buds are left above the trunk, and the top.
Be sure to consider the features of pruning a particular variety!
Apple pruning scheme
a - the main shoot has strong growth, and the side branches have grown weakly; b - strong growth in lateral branches and weak growth in the main shoot; c - if it is necessary to replace the main shoot with a side shoot; d - if necessary, shorten the competitor branch
There are several forms of the crown of the apple tree, which are most common:
- Sparse-tiered form. All branches are cut on the seedling, except for 4-6 skeletal ones, between which there should be at least 30-40 cm.
- Medium standard form. At the initial stage of seedling development, it is necessary to cut off all branches that are at a height below 1 m from the ground. Anything that remains above grows on its own.
Pruning an old apple tree
In cases where it is necessary to restore and update old apple trees, all work is carried out only with healthy tree, which has strong main skeletal branches. This is done in stages over several years. In the spring, when the shape of the tree is clearly visible, it is especially convenient to visually correct actions. In addition, at this time the whole procedure is accepted favorably by the tree.
Regarding diseased trees. Here, make the choice yourself: first cure, then prune, or replace them with new trees.
First year cut off the largest extra branches: diseased, intertwined, those that interfere and make unnecessary deformations, with bare bark.
Second-third year the center of the crown itself opens, removing the top of the main trunk at a height of 2.5 m. The tops are cut from the previous pruning, leaving a few growing upwards, from which new shoots are formed.
Trimming technique
The tools you use when pruning trees (pruners, loppers, garden knives, saws, etc.) must be clean and well sharpened. If you cut off diseased branches, before moving on to healthy ones, you need to disinfect the tool.
- Branches are removed as close to the trunk as possible., leaving no stumps from the cut, even in the youngest.
- Large branches are shortened first and then cut off completely. If using a saw, cut underneath first to avoid damaging the bark at the base. After that, the branch is cut down from above.
- The cut points should be treated with garden pitch or oil paint. on the 2nd day. Do not use enamel and nitro paints.
Try to place all main branches evenly around the central conductor, which must be left 25 cm higher than the other branches.
If you overdo it and greatly shorten the shoots, this can cause unnecessary branches to appear. And the obligatory rule is to prune apple trees annually!
How to prune a columnar apple tree?
Columnar apple trees do not have a crown and are compactly located on the site. Their pruning raises the most questions because of its features. The prevailing opinion is that the most suitable time for this is spring or early summer. I suggest you choose one of the following options.
First option
- For the 2nd year pinch the tops of young branches that are more than 30 cm long. upper shoot do not cut.
- For the 3rd year shorten the side branches to 40 cm, and pinch the top shoot at a distance of 25 cm from the central stem.
- For the 4th year remove all branches that grow incorrectly, intertwined and weak.
In the future, try to keep your tree no higher than 3 m and cut off unnecessary branches.
And what to do with the crown shoot, which is especially susceptible to freezing in winter time? You need to choose the strongest in the spring. Choose the strongest from the top young branches, and cut the rest into two kidneys.
Second option
You small plot, and you want to form a beautiful and strict column of trees in a small area?
Means must be pruned annually side shoots for two kidneys. Let them grow freely by removing dry, damaged and intertwined branches.
How to prune a dwarf apple tree?
When starting to prune such apple trees, remember that your task is to let it develop in breadth, and not up.
In the first year of life, seedlings grow very quickly.. But after the fruiting period begins, growth weakens. Further, the growth is severely cut off during fruiting, which has a good effect on the size of the fruit.
- In spring, an annual tree is cut at a level of 50 cm from the soil. and cover the cut with garden pitch.
- For next spring lateral branches shorten to the second kidney, and shorten the central shoot by a quarter.
- Next year we completely remove the branches that grow down and deep into the crown, and the main shoot and side branches - by 20 cm. You should strive to form a rounded small crown.
The formation of the crown of dwarf apple trees is carried out, as a rule, the first 2-3 years. But it all depends on how your apple tree develops.
For dwarf apple trees that bear fruit, sanitary pruning is required in spring and autumn.
Learn the basic rules and techniques. And yet remember that pruning trees is a creative and very interesting thing. I have been a gardener for more than twenty years, my neighbor has even more, but when I finish pruning my trees, the neighbor always has comments and suggestions. Such creativity.
Why do some gardeners have apple trees every year that bring large tasty apples, while for others, the yield of trees decreases for unknown reasons, branches break, apple trees die? To avoid such troubles, you need to learn how to properly care for the apple orchard, not forgetting to regularly trim the branches.
Do you know how prune an apple tree properly And what is the best time of the year to do this? Are you sure that you are forming the crown correctly? If not, our article contains the main recommendations on this topic, and the attached video clearly shows how apple trees are pruned in the fall.
Pruning serves different purposes depending on the age of the tree:
- the formation of a beautiful crown of the correct shape;
- strengthening young branches;
- increase in the number of fruiting branches;
- ensuring good access sunlight to apples;
- removal of old branches to replace them with new ones;
- preparing the tree for winter.
Pruning an old apple tree in most cases allows it to be saved, and young trees grow and bear fruit better thanks to similar procedure.
Apple pruning video
When to prune apple trees - in spring, summer or autumn?
Young trees are pruned every year in autumn and spring. Pruning apple trees in spring is necessary to remove branches frozen in winter, to form a crown and to increase productivity. Spring pruning begins before sap flow, until buds appear. In late autumn, as the leaves fall, they prune old, damaged, broken, rotten branches to prepare the tree for winter. In rare cases, apple trees are also pruned in summer to ensure the best access of light to the fruits. Winter pruning by apple trees is easier to tolerate, since they are at rest, but it can only be carried out in warm southern regions, otherwise the tree bark, fragile from frost, will be damaged.
Is it possible to prune an apple tree in the fall, after frosts? It’s better not to, otherwise the bark around the place where the branches are cut will freeze, and the wound will overgrow for a long time. Try to finish all work with the apple tree before the first frost.
Young trees are pruned every year in autumn and spring.
Held autumn pruning in the following way:
- first, large broken and dry branches are removed;
- the weakest branches are cut out of those that are too close to each other;
- cut branches growing at an acute angle;
- all damage caused to apple trees during the pruning process is carefully smeared with garden pitch or oil-based paint;
- cut branches are collected and burned.
Branch pruning methods
Pruning apple trees in the fall is of three types: weak, medium and strong. Weak pruning make young apple trees - new branches that have grown during the year are shortened by one quarter of the length. In the spring, fresh shoots will sprout from the cut branches, and a beautiful crown will form. Medium pruning used on 5-7 year old apple trees and on old trees also in order to increase the number of fruitful branches and crown formation. Fortified branches are cut to a third of the length. Strong pruning necessary for thinning branches so that apples ripen better under the sun, for this the branches are shortened by half.
There are three types of pruning of apple trees in autumn: weak, medium and strong.
A separate type of pruning apple trees - removal of dead branches. It is important here not to make a mistake by cutting the branch right at the trunk of the apple tree, otherwise the dried knot will soon fall out of the tree, and a hollow will form, which can eventually lead to the death of the apple tree. Cut the branch down to where the first bud appears. Then, with a thin file with fine teeth, file the stump in such a way that the saw cut from the trunk goes towards the branch you are sawing. The place of the cut in this case is recommended to be treated not with paint, but with garden pitch. If after this treatment it rained, do it again.
A separate type of pruning of apple trees - removal of dried branches
Pruning of young apple trees with thin branches is carried out with a secateurs, and the strengthened branches are cut down with a saw. The tool must be clean and very sharp, sharp like a razor. Dull garden shears or a hacksaw will greatly “shatter” the bark, and the wound will heal longer. Paint for processing is suitable only for oil, based on drying oil, other types of paints will burn the bark like acid. Some gardeners use to treat wounds after pruning. disinfectant solution from lime with copper sulfate in a ratio of 10:1. Please note that instant processing is only necessary for old dry branches, and when pruning young branches, you need to wait at least a day, and even then cover the cut with paint or pitch.
Video about autumn pruning of apple trees
Pruning of apple trees begins after planting in the first year in order to restore balance between the reduced root system and the sprawling above-ground part of the tree, which will require more water and nutrients than the roots can provide. In the next 3-5 years, it is better not to prune young apple trees - remove only broken and dried branches. Shoots should be shortened if the tree grows up too quickly.
Apple tree care necessarily includes pruning. Moreover, depending on the season, the age of the plant and the goal of the gardener, the rules for pruning apple trees may vary. For beginners, the process may seem complicated, but in reality it is not. Let's deal with the nuances and find out how to properly prune an apple tree in a particular case.
For an adult tree, shaping provides a good harvest, because in order for a tree to bear fruit generously, a lot of light and fresh air must get into the crown. Yes, and the fruits that ripened in the light become large and tasty, but the harvest from neglected apple trees is small.
By removing the old branches of the apple tree, you give impetus to the development of young shoots, thereby rejuvenating the trees. Finally, pruning young apple trees improves their survival rate.
General rules and general principles
Consider the basic principles of how to prune an apple tree.
To cut branches, you need to use disinfected sharp tools: it is much easier for harmful bacteria to penetrate through a “soaked” cut. Thin branches (less than 2 cm) can be cut with pruning shears, for others a garden hacksaw will do. If the cut branch was dry, the bough must be immediately treated with garden pitch or other wound healing agent; a cut on a living branch must first be dried for a day.
When to prune an apple tree
Now we will find out when to prune apple trees and at what time it is better to carry out different types of work. How and when to prune depends in part on the local climate.
winter pruning
In winter, pruning of apple trees is possible only in the southern regions with warm winters. A frozen cut on the branches is very poorly tightened and often begins to rot, therefore it is desirable that after cutting the temperature should be at least +10 ° C for at least 2-3 weeks. At the first frost, pruning should be stopped immediately. Accordingly, if you are not sure about your climate, it is better to choose a warmer season.
spring pruning
In the spring, sanitary and formative pruning of the apple tree is carried out. Experts recommend for her the interval between the beginning of the movement of juices and how the swelling of the kidneys begins.
Spring pruning must include sanitary pruning. Also, pruning apple trees in spring is suitable for shaping the crown and, if necessary, thinning it out. It is desirable to trim those branches of the apple tree that grow inside the crown at an acute angle. If the sprout is located in parallel with the older branch, it is also removed.
When deciding how to prune an apple tree in spring, you need to take into account the nuance of adjusting the crop: if the previous one was bad, the apple tree needs to be cut heavily so that it gains strength. An abundantly fruiting tree can be pruned to a minimum.
Formative pruning of a young apple tree in spring is especially important - this is the best time to cut off the top, reducing the height of the tree.
Lungs summer pruning allow the sun to better illuminate the already formed fruits. Also at the end of June, you can pinch too rapidly growing shoots so that they do not take strength from the tree. Broken and diseased branches should be cut off as soon as you notice them.
autumn pruning
Now we will learn how to properly prune an apple tree in the fall. If in the region there are frequent return spring frosts, it is necessary to prune in August: the trees will wake up later next year and this will protect the buds from freezing.
Sanitary pruning of an apple tree in autumn is recommended after leaf fall and harvest - it is easier to detect damaged branches inside the crown. To begin with, it is better to remove large branches, including those that have cracked due to a large crop. Then cut the shoots growing inside the crown at an acute angle (in winter they can break due to snow), and the “tops”, that is, the branches growing upwards, are barren. If there are 2 branches growing from the same place, the weaker one is removed.
Types and schemes of trimming
We will find out what apple tree pruning schemes exist.
Formative
The apple tree seedlings are cut directly by specialists in order to "balance" root system and sprouts.
How to prune a young apple tree? The first pruning of the apple tree is recommended a year after planting (when planting in autumn, it is better not to touch the tree until spring).
The annual is pinned as follows: the crown is cut off at a height of 0.8–1 m (with the exception of columnar varieties) and the shoots are removed at a distance of up to 50 cm from the soil. When working with one-year-olds, it is necessary to shorten long skeletal branches, which should have 3-5 buds and be 16-20 shorter than the height of the location - so that the longest branches are from below, and the shortest - from above. Such trees tapering upwards help to harvest easily. Pruning for a one-year-old apple tree seedling should be done before buds appear.
In the second year, we lay tiers of skeletal branches. Most types of crown suggest that there should be 2-5 branches on each tier. Optimal Distance between tiers depends on the height of the tree. If the apple tree is low or has been planted recently, it can be 40 cm, for a high one - 60 cm. Pruning of a young apple tree should form an approximately equal distance between branches of the same level.
Forming such a crown as a bowl, the central trunk is removed to the first fork of the branches. It will be replaced by side branches, forming 2-4 "trunks".
When pruning a three-year-old apple tree, extra branches are removed, except for skeletal ones. On a tree that is two to five years old, the branches are shortened by ⅔ of the length. In this case, the upper kidney should “look” outward. Up to five years, all annual sprouts are cut off on the plant.
If the tree has been formed correctly, it will begin to bear fruit in five years. They will appear on old strong branches. At this age and up to seven years, skeletal branches are cut in the fall, about a third of the length, which stimulates the formation of new buds.
For a columnar variety, it is impossible to remove the apical buds. The rules for pruning such a tree are as follows: each pruned shoot, on which 2 or 3 buds are left, will give the same number of large strong branches. If there were more buds (up to 5), the shoots will be smaller. If such a tree is properly formed, it will give 10–15 cm of annual growth.
In this case, when pruning the apple tree after planting, the side shoots must be shortened, leaving 2 buds each so that the shoots are as strong as possible. In this case, the central conductor must be fixed to the support. If there are too large shoots close to the soil, they need to be cut off.
At the age of two, the obtained pairs of sprouts are examined. They leave more horizontal, and the second is shortened again to 2 kidneys. A year later, they remove the branches that have already yielded a crop, and with the rest they act according to the scheme of the previous year.
During 3–5 years, an annular cut of fruit formations takes place - this is how we get a bole.
Almost any gardening forum offers schemes for pruning different types of crowns in detail, so that even a beginner will understand everything.
Consider how to prune an old apple tree.
Rejuvenating pruning of adult apple trees involves the removal of all branches that do not bear fruit, so that young, “yielding” shoots grow better. Is it possible to cut the skeletal branches at the same time? Definitely yes. Also, if the trees are taller than 5 m, you can cut the top, otherwise the flow of juice and nutrients upstairs will take a lot of strength from them. Pruning a heavily neglected apple tree is especially important.
When deciding how to properly prune an old apple tree, keep in mind that it is wrong to cut too many branches at once and more than 2 m per year - this will weaken the tree and only reduce its yield. It is necessary to make such pruning annually, but little by little. To do this, it is good to have a care calendar.
Sanitary
This type of pruning involves the removal of diseased, drying and broken branches. This is especially important in intensive apple orchards where the infection can reach many trees and cause the most damage. It should be carried out already when you notice the danger. You can do it any month, but be sure to do this pruning in spring and autumn, when the branches are bare and easier to inspect.
In autumn, any branch that has cracked due to a large crop is subject to removal - in this case it will not bear fruit, but can serve as a source of infection. In spring, branches that are broken from snow or frozen are more often removed.
If two branches touch and rub, one of them must also be cut.
Places that look burnt can be infected with black cancer, a dangerous fungal disease that threatens the death of a tree. In this case, they need to be examined with a magnifying glass: small ulcers with dark dots around the edges will confirm the diagnosis. Such areas should be immediately removed and burned, after which the wounds should be treated with copper sulphate and covered with garden pitch. Foliage after this must be sprayed with Bordeaux liquid.
Video "Correct pruning of an apple tree"
From this video you will learn how to properly prune an apple tree in the garden.
If you want to pick apples in your garden every year, not enough to plant a seedling and wait for it to bear fruit. To him help needed.
Only timely formation of the crown and her regular pruning cause apple trees to bear fruit every year.
Exist certain deadlines when to prune an apple tree. If they are not observed, there will be no benefit, but huge harm can be done, up to the drying out of a large number of skeletal branches, the formation of unnecessary tops, and the growth of shoots to the detriment of fruit ripening.
You can often hear the question: when is it better to prune an apple tree? spring or autumn? In fact, pruning apple trees may have to for any season. But we must take into account several factors:
- the purpose of the pruning;
- condition and health of the tree;
- the age of the apple tree;
- life cycle stage;
- weather.
Important! You need to know when it is impossible and when you can prune apple trees. It is necessary to refrain from pruning when the process of active sap flow has begun, during flowering, during the period of fruit set.
Pruning by season
In summer
Pruning time for apple trees in summer falls on first decade of July. This pruning very gentle, should not affect lignified shoots. Such a process is called tweezing or topping.
It consists in the fact that a bud beginning to open with 1 - 2 leaves on the green top of the shoot, cut off or bite with secateurs. This encourages the underlying buds to start growing.
Pinching (pinching) of an apple tree.
Timing
Often the timing when cutting apple trees violates weather. early arrival frost, strong wind, a lot of dropped snow- this can interfere with autumn pruning. In such cases, the formation of the crown of an apple tree moved to spring.
If winter came warm and snowy, then pruning can be done winter. This should be done very carefully.
In frosty weather, tree branches become very fragile, easily break down and form lacerations. They do not heal at sub-zero temperatures.
From differences in night and day temperatures the bark is cracking even near neat cuts. This can damage the important skeletal branches and trunk of the apple tree.
If you still decide to take a chance and prune in the winter, be guided by the weather forecast.
The terms differ when pruning apple trees of different ages:
- young trees easier to adapt to weather conditions, their wounds heal faster. Therefore, for them, the question is “when should apple trees be cut in the garden: in autumn or spring?” irrelevant. Their crown can be formed both in autumn and spring, and even in winter during a thaw;
- for mature fruit bearing trees any intervention is stressful, so rejuvenating or regulating pruning is best done in the spring, before bud break.
Spring or autumn?
If the question is when to prune an apple tree - in spring or autumn, it is better to choose spring. There are several reasons for this:
- a tree undamaged in autumn winters more easily;
- wounds heal faster;
- simultaneously with regulating pruning, branches frozen and broken from heavy snow are removed;
- the cut point is easier to cover with garden pitch, because when low temperatures it becomes hard, and it is difficult to apply a thin layer to the saw cut.
spring time to prune apple trees before sap flow. It is determined by the kidneys. If the buds have not increased in size, then the tree is still at rest. Exactly this auspicious time for cutting. After removing the extra branches, all the nutrition will go to the fruit buds. The tree can tie maximum number of apples.
When is pruning of apple trees autumn, there is a significant minus- wounds on the trunk may not have time to dry and heal before the onset of frost. As practice shows, if pruning was done in the fall, then in winter frosts many branches are damaged. These are exactly the branches on which the cut was carried out.
Sawed off an apple branch.
When considering options for when to file an apple tree, it should be noted that this procedure is affected by the climate of the region. If in the northern regions the gardens are still covered with snow, then in the southern regions flowering may already begin. Accordingly, the period of formation of the crown will be different.
When to prune apple trees in the Moscow region?
Approximate schedule can be compiled according to the weather conditions of past years:
- spring: end of March - end of April. During this period, the formation of the crown, the rejuvenation of old trees. All broken branches and those damaged by frost are also removed;
- summer: second half of August, September. All annual growths are pruned. Before it is not worth it, as they will begin to grow intensively again. From the same place on the trunk, instead of one shoot, several can grow, and take away all the nutrition from the ripening crop;
- autumn: from mid-October to mid-November. autumn pruning depends on the variety of apple trees. Early ripe ones, which have already borne fruit and shed their leaves, are pruned in October. In November, a crown is formed in late varieties. Harvest from them is removed at the end of September, and growing season ends a little later;
- winter in outskirts of Moscow Not recommended cut apple trees. There is a risk of frostbite of branches and cracking of the bark due to unstable weather and frequent temperature fluctuations.
For more information on the correct pruning of apple trees, see the video below:
dry branches
When can you cut the branches of an apple tree if they are already dry? One answer - during the whole year. Dry, damaged branches can't be left on the tree. They thicken the crown, do not give room for new shoots.
Advice! Dried branches become a breeding ground for insect pests. They settle under the bark, in a hollow, on the rotten part of the branch. If the branch has dried up due to illness, then it must be removed as soon as it is noticed.
The tree tries to restore damaged or broken branches, spending useful substances on this at the expense of healthy shoots and fruits. Therefore, it does not matter when to prune dry branches from an apple tree, it is important to do it.
Dry branches must be removed.
Pruning dry branches should be carried out to the healthy part. You can’t leave a stump, because a hollow can form in this place, which will disrupt the nutrition of the whole tree.
Conclusion
Having planted a garden on your site, do not leave it unattended. Regular care is the key to a good harvest.
Only pruning can form the crown of a young tree, regulate fruiting on adult apple trees and reap a bountiful harvest in old perennial orchards.
Therefore, carefully and wisely choose the time when to prune apple trees.
