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What top dressing do strawberry seedlings need for successful development and a good harvest? Fertilizers for remontant strawberries Top dressing for seedlings of strawberries from seeds

Seedlings of strawberries and strawberries at home

Seeds of large-fruited strawberry hybrids are expensive. In addition, the package contains from 3 to 10 small seeds. They are easy to lose in seed boxes and bowls, so it is better to sow the seeds of such strawberries in peat tablets.

The method is also convenient because at the first stage it is not necessary to sift and steam the soil mixture and dive strawberry seedlings. Strawberries - to sow seeds or not? Do not think that growing strawberries from seeds is an unreliable and very laborious business.

This is useful and exciting! Firstly, in one season you can get a lot of bushes of a new variety. Moreover, most varieties of alpine (small-fruited) strawberries do not give a mustache, but after 3-4 years they require rejuvenation. Secondly, this way you can get new varieties of strawberries.

And now a large number of them have appeared on sale, including large-fruited ones. remontant varieties.Large-fruited garden strawberries- "strawberries" - and small-fruited alpine strawberries are sown in the same way. Dates of sowing strawberries for seedlings At home, strawberries are sown for seedlings in late February-early March.

In more early dates Strawberries are sown in nurseries when it is necessary to put up ready-made seedlings for sale at the beginning of the season. If there is no such goal, there is no need to rush. In the absence of additional illumination, start sowing in the first decade of March.

Preparing strawberry seeds for sowing - soaking and stratification Spread strawberry seeds between two cotton pads or pieces of clean cloth folded in 2-3 layers. Place them in a microwave container or other container, moisten, close the lid, having previously made several holes in it for ventilation.

If you have multiple varieties, label them. Hold them for 2-3 days at a temperature of +15. + 18 ° C, then remove the soaked strawberry seeds in the refrigerator for 2 weeks. Some gardeners advise placing ready-made crops in the refrigerator.

Add water until it is no longer absorbed by the tablets. Drain the excess. Spread the "pricks" into the recesses in the tablets. It is very convenient to do this with a toothpick.

It is better to feed strawberry seedlings with humates or a solution mineral fertilizers for seedlings. If the weather allows, from the end of April to the beginning of March, you can start hardening on the balcony or glazed veranda. At first, cover the seedlings from direct sunlight and wind.

Its amount depends on the initial state of the beds. If it's civilized garden soil, enough for 0.5 buckets of humus and peat per 1 sq.m. If the soil is clay, double the amount of humus and peat and add 0.5 buckets of sand.

The application rate of complete mineral fertilizer is 30-40 grams per 1 sq.m. Carefully dig the spades onto the bayonet and level them so that there is no slope. To make the rows even, pull the planting cord on the bed.

Seal. Carefully, so as not to erode the ground around the bush, water the strawberry seedlings. And one more tip: it is convenient to grow small-fruited strawberries on narrow beds no more than 2 rows. The distance between the rows is 35-40 centimeters.

It can be grown in 1 row along the edge of other crops or fruit bushes, retreating from them by 50-60 cm. A larger number of rows makes it difficult to regularly pick berries and process plants after the next wave of fruiting.

How to grow strawberries from seed

Why does the gaze of even a not very experienced summer resident stop at bright photos, at bags of strawberry seeds? Probably because the remarkably tasty and healthy strawberries growing on our native six acres have one unpleasant property - over time it degenerates, even the “pedigreed” is cross-pollinated by the neighboring “mutts”.

This means that you will be relieved of the need to constantly cut the mustache, which weakens the plant, and the berries will be on the table all season - from June to snow.2. You can sow strawberries in March-April, but if you want to see the fruits in the first year - deceive nature - sow in the first decade of February.3.

We fill the container with loose earth, leaving 2-2.5 cm to the edge. We do not water dry soil, but slightly moisten it with drops from our fingers. Shake the container. The surface of the soil should not be compacted, but simply even, so that the seeds do not sink deep - they cannot crawl out.

6. Further care for sowing seeds of strawberries comes down to the correct distribution of seeds over the surface of the soil - the layer is uniform and not plentiful. No need to cover with earth! We cover the seeds with snow, filling the container to the top (the same 2-2.5 cm).

Watering is still not necessary, except for a little spray when the soil is very dry (although normally melted snow is just enough for self-watering). Seedlings may appear in 10-15 days, some varieties germinate in 3-4 weeks.

9. After the emergence of seedlings in the film, we begin to pierce holes - we gradually accustom the seedlings to the big world. While there are few holes, self-watering is enough. We follow the soil, it should not dry out, but excess moisture will kill the “children”.

Before landing in the ground, it remains not to abuse it with watering, or vice versa - do not dry it. Don't rush to fertilize, that's later.

Seeds sprout for a long time, and often disappear altogether; seedlings look fragile and small, you have to dive with tweezers; it is unacceptable to overmoisten the seedling soil, and even more so it is impossible to overdry ... So many worries! Nevertheless, growing strawberries or strawberries from seeds has its advantages.

The main properties necessary for the soil for seedlings of strawberries are lightness and water permeability. To achieve the desired quality, some gardeners advise sifting the soil mixture through a sieve. The following mixtures are best suited for strawberry seedlings:

Option 1: 3 parts garden soil, 3 parts manure or compost, 1/2 part wood ash. Option 2: 4 parts vermiculite, 3 parts peat, 3 parts sand. Option 3: 1 part coconut fiber, 1 part humus or biohumus.

Stratification of seeds and sowing for seedlings

That's why summer residents don't like to mess with strawberry seedlings so much! Because of the notorious stratification, which in this case cannot be bypassed. Stratification is the creation of seeds conditions for germination close to natural.

This container is filled soil mixture, not reaching the edge by a couple of centimeters. Slightly moisten the soil so that small seeds do not fall too deep, and then evenly distribute the seeds over the surface.

Caring for seedlings of strawberries before planting in the ground

Constant moisture (but not waterlogging) of the soil is one of the key points in the cultivation of strawberry seedlings. When sowing seeds in a plastic transparent container with a lid, it is very convenient to monitor the level of humidity.

If there are concerns about fungal infections that can doze in the soil, you can add Fitosporin, diluted according to the instructions, to the irrigation water. About 3-4 days after germination, the lid can be opened permanently. With the advent of 2-3 real leaves, strawberry seedlings dive in individual cups. The procedure is not the easiest, because the plants are still tiny, fragile, with an elongated stem.

Some gardeners simply "spud" the sprouts, raking the soil so as to fill up a long stem, leaving a growth point and leaves above the ground, and picking is done later, with the appearance of 3-4 pairs of true leaves. In this case, the seedlings will be much stronger, but there may be a problem with the interlacing of the roots.

The roots of seedlings can become so intertwined with each other that they will have to be washed with water and carefully (with a fork) unraveled. After picking, caring for seedlings of strawberries comes down to constantly monitoring the level of humidity. In addition, you can harden seedlings by taking them out to the balcony at stable positive temperatures. It is not necessary to feed strawberry seedlings until planting in the ground. We wish you success and great harvests!

The variety, of course, matters, but it is impossible to get a good harvest of garden strawberries without constant care, says Viktor Nikolaevich Popov, an experienced gardener.

The next day, you can start loosening the earth with a rake and top dressing with ash (1 cup for 5 plants).

Viktor Nikolaevich believes that the sooner this is done, the faster the strawberries will grow and begin to bear fruit.

Second processing

A week later, it's time to start the second treatment.

Viktor Nikolaevich is a supporter of ecological farming, he tries not to use chemistry. Therefore, in the spring, after the first treatments, onion peels are placed under the bushes of strawberries to protect them from ticks. The husk also plays the role of mulch and keeps the berries clean. You can replace it with straw, sawdust or coniferous needles. For better heating, it is advisable to cover the aisles with a black film.

First dressing

After the first treatments, Viktor Nikolaevich carries out the first feeding with nitrophos (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water) + microelements (1 tablespoon).

- If the bushes are weak, you can add 1 tsp. urea or saltpeter, he advises. - I put 1 liter of fertilizer under a young bush, 2-3 liters under an old one. Then I cover the bushes with agril to protect from the cold and speed up the vegetative processes.

When flower stalks appear

- Before flowering, I spray with the following solution: 2 g boric acid, 2 g of manganese, 1 cup of sifted ash, 1 tbsp. l. iodine in a bucket of water. I make an extract from the ashes in advance. After harvesting, it is desirable to repeat the same processing, - Viktor Nikolaevich shared.

All components are trace elements and are absolutely harmless. Potassium permanganate and boric acid - top dressing and disinfection, iodine - prevention of gray rot, which is especially common in wet weather.

At the beginning of flowering

For better fruit set, Viktor Nikolaevich recommends treating strawberries with a solution of boric acid at the beginning of flowering (1/3 tsp per 10 liters of water):

- When spraying, try to get on the flowers. You can also use the drug "Ovary". During flowering, I process strawberries twice a week. I alternate treatments: once with boric acid, the second with a solution of potassium permanganate.

When the first berries are tied, the strawberries must again be treated from gray rot with an iodine solution (20 drops per 10 liters of water). If the summer is cold, Viktor Nikolaevich advises such treatments to be carried out more often.

Favorite varieties

Source: prgazeta.ru No. 13 of 04/01/2009

Top dressing with mineral fertilizers

For mineral supplement strawberries, it is best to use complex mixtures designed specifically for her. If they are not, then in early spring berry growers are fed with nitroammophos - a tablespoon per ten-liter bucket. Water strictly under the root, spending half a liter for each plant.

Combined top dressing

On well-cultivated and moisture-intensive soils, it is enough to feed strawberries only twice. The first time in the spring or at the very beginning of summer. The second is after the harvest. Preference is given to combined liquid fertilizer:

- mullein - 1 l;

- superphosphate - 60 g;

— wood ash- 150 g;

- water - 10 liters.

For three square meters of landings, a bucket of such a solution is enough. It is poured into grooves made along a row of planted plants, which are then leveled. To avoid burns, strawberries should be watered after top dressing. clean water- directly on the leaves, from the sprayer.

Autumn bedding is also useful, especially if, after the soil has settled, the bushes began to rise too high from the ground. For her use:

- humus - 1 bucket;

The roots of this culture do not lie deep in the ground, and in early spring the suction roots can approach almost to the very surface. Therefore, the dry mixture can simply be scattered over the ridge and loosened a little. In the summer upper layer soil dries out quickly, and fertilizer should now be embedded in the grooves.

Berry growers that consume fertilizer during their entire growing season will, as a result, require much less fertilizer.

Fertilizers containing nitrogen, when applied in spring, are spent more by the plant on the development of mustaches, and have little effect on fruiting. This must be taken into account when fertilizing varieties that give a lot of whiskers.

Nitrogen fertilizers always contribute to the active growth of green mass - strawberry leaves. A large area of foliage evaporates a lot of water, especially in hot weather. And strawberries are quite moisture-loving and extremely difficult to tolerate dry periods.

On very loose and sandy soils nutrients are washed out faster into lower layers inaccessible to strawberry roots than on clayey ones. Therefore, two-time fertilization is not enough here. Top dressing has to be done much more often, using several tricks and carefully observing current state plants.

As soon as you decide to “start” strawberries on your balcony, think about how you will fertilize it. Despite its simplicity, this issue causes a lot of controversy among gardeners and gardeners. Some believe that the harm from mineral fertilizers produced by the chemical industry is too exaggerated. And nothing special will happen if urea or superphosphate is used as a top dressing for strawberries a couple of times a season. Opponents of "chemists", on the contrary, build theories that only natural organic fertilizers can be used for berry and vegetable crops. Whether to join a particular clan is, of course, up to you.

Some mineral granular fertilizers can not be diluted in water, but applied directly to the soil when planting strawberry seedlings. Such fertilizers include superphosphate, ammonium nitrate, etc.

Organic fertilizers for strawberries are completely harmless, therefore, applying them as top dressings, you can not worry about the quality of your crop. A few "recipes" by which you can make organic fertilizers for the full development of strawberries:

Dried cow or horse dung pour water (1:4), put in heat for fermentation for 6-8 days. It turns out a concentrate, which, before use, is diluted in a ratio of 1:10. Top dressing is carried out only on moist soil, ideally one hour after watering.

Strawberries respect phosphorus very much, so superphosphate is almost always used in garden farms that grow this berry for sale. However, this option is not suitable for organic farming. It is successfully replaced with a phosphorus-potassium fertilizer made from ash.

2 tbsp. spoons of ash are poured into 1 liter of water, insisted for a day, after which they pour strawberries with a solution. You can also add ash to the planting soil, but not much so as not to burn the roots. A handful of ashes on a bucket of earth will suffice.

Top dressing schemes for strawberries

1. When using mineral fertilizers:

in the spring, for the growth of the bush and the laying of flower buds - nitroammofoska under the root (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water) + spraying with urea (0.5 tablespoons per 2 liters of water)

2. When using organics:

after harvest - ash solution

3. When using mixed, mineral-organic dressings

Mullein solution (10 l) + ash (1 cup) + superphosphate (2 tbsp)

How to grow seedlings of strawberries

Garden strawberries are often referred to as strawberries. This delicious and useful berry today grows in many garden and summer cottages. Strawberries are grown in two ways - from seeds and seedlings. The cultivation of strawberry seedlings will be described in detail below.

Seedlings are obtained by separating the whiskers, on which there are horns with rosettes. These sockets will later become the basis of the strawberry bush. Trimming the mustache has two goals at the same time: strengthening the mother bush and obtaining material for seedlings. A socket suitable for seedlings must have a developed root system and 4 to 6 leaves in the aerial part of the bush. The highest yield is obtained from seedlings obtained from mother bushes in the second year of the cycle.

Garden strawberries are planted either in early spring, immediately after the snow has melted and night frosts have stopped, or in early autumn, no later than the beginning of October. In the first case, the harvest can be obtained next year. If the seedlings are planted on the ground in autumn period- The first berries will appear next summer.

It is better to plant young bushes in rainy cloudy weather, when the soil is thoroughly moistened. and not hardened seedlings are not exposed to ultraviolet radiation when exposed to direct sunlight. The soil for planting garden strawberries must first be prepared: carefully loosen, remove weeds, feed with organic or mineral fertilizers.

Strawberries most abundantly bear fruit, planted on the site where they grew before. flower plants or annual vegetables. Excellent predecessors for berries are zucchini, pumpkin, eggplant or squash. The optimal cycle of growing strawberries in the same place is no more than 4 years. After that, the soil is depleted and the yield decreases. It is better to prepare a new site in advance and plant young seedlings in order to give it time to properly strengthen, develop and begin to actively bear fruit. Seedlings planted in open ground must be watered every few days - strawberries do not like an abundance of moisture.

Soil mulching

Many gardeners use the soil mulching method. It lies in the fact that the aisles and the distance between the bushes fall asleep sawdust, shavings, straw, moss or dry leaves. The first natural or artificial watering compresses the mulch into a dense layer, the integrity of which cannot be broken even by strong gusts of wind. Mulching stops the growth of weeds, while leaving open access for the penetration of moisture and fertilizers.

It is not recommended to treat both the seedlings themselves and the ground around immediately after planting with a 3% solution of copper sulfate, which will destroy possible pathogens of various plants. Throughout the cycle, you need to remove the mustache and dead leaves, loosen the soil between the rows, feed the seedlings with compost and minerals. On young bushes, in order to enhance growth, the formation of new fruit buds and increase yields, it is also recommended to periodically remove flowering shoots.

Growing seedlings of strawberries in greenhouses

In addition to open areas, the cultivation of strawberry seedlings is also carried out in greenhouses, greenhouses and even on the balconies of city apartments. For seedlings growing in greenhouse conditions, the main thing is to maintain a constant temperature external environment and optimal humidity levels. Often in greenhouses and greenhouses, strawberries receive an excess amount of moisture due to the formation of internal walls condensate facilities. Since this berry is not too moisture-loving, fresh air should be periodically provided to the greenhouse in order to optimize the indoor climate. When growing strawberry seedlings on balconies and open terraces, the same methods and rules are used as for open areas.

Post subject: Strawberries: the secret of a big harvest

When the snow comes down

Viktor Nikolaevich starts work on strawberries as soon as the snow melts:

- In the aisles I put planks, rubber mats and proceed to pruning dried leaves, with signs of illness, as well as flower stalks left over from autumn. I loosen the earth with a pitchfork and sprinkle the bare roots.

Then you need hot water (65-70 ° C) to prepare a solution of copper sulfate (1 teaspoon per 10 liters of water).

- I water the earth and bushes from a watering can with such a hot solution, trying to get on the underside of the leaves. Approximately 10 liters of solution is enough for 25 strawberry bushes. Hot water destroys pests that hibernate on the surface, and some pathogens without any chemistry, the gardener explains.

- I am preparing a hot (65 ° C) dark cherry solution of potassium permanganate. When processing bushes, I try to get on the underside of the leaves. Potassium permanganate is the same as blue vitriol, disinfects the earth, repels the weevil, in addition, it is also a good top dressing. It helps to increase the number of peduncles and flowers, - continues Viktor Nikolaevich.

Strawberries are very responsive to feeding, so as soon as the peduncles begin to emerge, it's time to feed a second time.

- I fill a bucket of mullein or bird droppings with a bucket of water and keep it for 7-10 days. I dilute the fermented solution with water, mullein - 6 times, bird - 20 times. For every 10 liters of diluted fertilizer, I add 2 tbsp. l. wood ash. I put 1 liter under a young bush, 2 liters under an old one, says the gardener.

Before flowering

“After such processing, the yield of peduncles is doubled compared to the untreated one,” the gardener believes, “and strawberries are almost not affected by rot.

At the same time, strawberries are fed for the third time. Mullein is bred 8 times, and bird droppings - 25 times. To any of these fertilizers, Viktor Nikolaevich advises adding 2 tbsp. l. microfertilizers per 10 liters or 2 cups of ash.

When the berries set

It is impossible to get a good harvest of strawberries without watering, watering is especially necessary after flowering and during the harvest of berries, after harvesting - in August-early September, and also in autumn for better wintering. Water should be settled, not lower than 15 ° C.

- In dry weather, before each top dressing, it is necessary to irrigate under the root of each plant for an hour, - Viktor Nikolaevich warns.

Viktor Nikolaevich believes that, apart from agricultural technology, a lot depends on the variety. He grows several varieties on his plot: Tsaritsa, Good Found, Flamingo, Ruby Pendant, Festival Chamomile, Geneva, Cardinal, but the most favorite is Queen Elizabeth II.

Growing garden strawberries in open ground. Calendar of works for the care of garden strawberries for the northwestern region of Russia.

Strawberry nutrition.

If you look, strawberries are not too picky culture. To receive high yields, it is enough just to follow the rules of cultivation. And, in particular, make timely top dressing. They can be organic, mineral or a combination. The main thing is that this feeding should correspond to the needs of plants that arise at one stage or another of their life.

organic nutrition

The fertilizer application scheme consists of five top dressings:

- the first - in early spring; half a glass of wood ash is added to a bucket of organic matter and somewhere a matchbox nitrogen fertilizer, for example, urea;

- the second - during budding; in the same composition, ash is replaced matchbox trace elements;

If the strawberry variety does not need intensive growing conditions, the third and fourth feeding can be excluded.

When the time comes for budding, strawberries need more potassium, so potassium nitrate or wood ash is taken for fertilizer. And for the growth of the ovaries, they are sprayed with a weak solution of boric acid - a small pinch in a bucket.

After picking berries and removing old leaves, the bushes are again fed with complex berry fertilizer. Or they use nitroammophoska - two tablespoons plus a glass of ash in a bucket of water.

In August, for laying flower buds next year, it is useful to give strawberries a little urea - no more than 30 grams per ten-liter bucket.

If strawberry bushes have developed too weakly since autumn, they can be additionally fed with nitrogen in the spring. To do this, about 15 grams of ammonium nitrate or 10 grams of urea for each square meter landings.

- wood ash - 1 cup.

Things to remember when feeding strawberries

Fertilizers for strawberries - organic and mineral diet

Mineral fertilizers - fertilizing for strawberries based on NPK

What is the easiest way to feed strawberries? Of course, ready-made mineral fertilizers for strawberries. Their names speak for themselves: "For strawberries" (Stimovit), "For berry crops" (Agricola), "Strawberries, wild strawberries" (Agroopttorg). Identification shouldn't be a problem. The only “but” is that there are a lot of chemicals in these fertilizers. It is one thing to fertilize petunias with mineral compounds, and another to do the same with strawberries. Although manufacturers are reinsured and advise using their fertilizer 1-2 times per season, usually in the first phase of the growing season, that is, at the seedling stage, until the first flowers have formed on the plant.

"Feed" strawberries with mineral compounds should be in strict accordance with the fertilizer manufacturer's instructions

Among the complex fertilizers for strawberries, it is worth highlighting nitroammophoska (NPK = 16-16-16), which is used to feed strawberries in early spring.

In addition to complex compositions with approximately the same NPK ratio, strawberries can also be “fed” with those fertilizers in which there is a clear predominance of some element. It can be:

nitrogen fertilizers - urea (46% nitrogen), ammonium nitrate (34%), ammonium sulfate (21% nitrogen).
phosphate fertilizers - superphosphate (14-19.5% phosphorus), double superphosphate(45% phosphorus).
potash fertilizers - potassium nitrate (44% potassium), potassium sulfate (50% potassium).

Organics - safe fertilizer from natural products

1. Fertilizer for strawberries based on manure

Manure can be replaced with pigeon or chicken droppings, the resulting composition will be no worse.

Comparative characteristics different types manure

2. "Herbal" fertilizer from nettle or legumes (clover, lupine, alfalfa)

The cut grass is placed in a bucket, filled with water (1: 4), cleaned in heat for a week. All this time, once a day, the prepared concentrate is stirred to enhance fermentation. In a week, the strawberry fertilizer will be ready, the plant residues are removed, and the concentrate is diluted 2 times and the bushes are watered with it.

3. Ash as a phosphorus-potassium fertilizer

during budding - potassium nitrate under the root (2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water)
after fruiting - nitroammophoska under the root
in spring, during the formation of seedlings - a solution of mullein, bird droppings or "herbal" fertilizer
during budding - ash solution

Plants are watered with this composition 3 times per season: at the seedling stage, after flowering and after fruiting.

But it is much more convenient to stratify in a container: it takes less space. After 2 weeks, place the container in a warm (+18. +20°C) bright place.

Check the seeds every 2-3 days so as not to miss the moment of germination. When the strawberry seeds hatch, it is time to sow. Put the peat tablets in a container, fill them with water. Wait until they turn from pills into "columns".

It is not necessary to cover the seeds with earth: strawberries sprout better in the light. Seeds are sprinkled only when sown in the summer in the garden so that they do not die from overdrying. It is important that the hatched seeds do not dry out.

To do this, cover the container with a transparent lid or place it in a greenhouse. Put the strawberry crops in a bright place with a temperature not higher than + 20 ° C. Remove condensate from the lid daily, ventilate it so that mold does not form.

If you still notice the first signs of mold, carefully remove it with a toothpick and drop a solution of the drug onto this place. Maksim or another fungicide. After the appearance of the first true leaves, the shelter can be removed. Sprinkle the strawberry roots (if they are bare) to the root collar with a small amount of earth.

If you notice that the peat "pillars" are settling, add water to the container until completely absorbed, and drain the excess. How to feed strawberries Once every 2 weeks, add water to combine with top dressing.

Short-term night temperature drop to +3. +5°C is even useful. Planting strawberries in the ground You can plant seedlings in the ground after June 10.

In well-developed seedlings, the roots are visible on the surface of the peat tablet. Considering that remontant varieties of strawberries bear fruit all season, the soil for it should be loose and fertile. It is advisable to add humus or well-rotted compost.

Mark the row with a shallow groove. Make holes at a distance of 30 cm. Install peat tablets with seedlings. Carefully fill the remaining space in the hole with loose earth so that the growing point of the strawberry (heart) is at ground level.

Buying seedlings by mail is a dubious undertaking, too often plants do not survive the shipment, and there are enough scammers. Buying on the market is also questionable. Even the purchase of seedlings in a reputable company does not give a 100% guarantee that you will grow what you want.

The way out, it would seem, suggests itself ... Then why do most of us, standing at the window, sigh and pass by without buying the coveted bag? Apparently, because there is a steady belief in the capriciousness and inhuman difficulty of growing strawberries from seeds. Those who are more daring, buy, sow, guided by the instructions on the package or the experience of sowing completely different plants, get a disappointing result ...

Step-by-step instructions for growing strawberries from seeds

1. First, select strawberry seeds. It is better to choose a couple of not very expensive small varieties. They are not so demanding (large ones are more capricious) and there are a lot of them in the package (and large and expensive ones - from 3 to 10 seeds).

Small berries will not disappoint you - almost all small varieties compensate for the size with a wonderful smell and taste. Now many remontant and beardless varieties are on sale.

The soil is not heavy, not very fertile. You can mix ordinary garden soil with sand. 4. It is very convenient to use a transparent plastic container for sowing. We pierce holes in the bottom. If the container is without a lid, we prepare a film and a rubber band.5.

7. Close the container with a lid or film and put in the refrigerator. Choose a shelf yourself - the snow should melt gradually. The container will last 2 weeks in the refrigerator. What we have done is called stratification.

8. After the "wintering" we put the container with strawberry seeds on a cold windowsill. We do not remove the film or cover. If there is little light, we use artificial lighting.

That is why a transparent container is more convenient - you can observe the humidity. And the film or cover will also tell you: if it is dry, there is little moisture, we urgently water it (with drops on the wall or with a spray bottle), if there is so much condensate that the plants are not visible, there is too much moisture.

Then briefly open the container - ventilate. Melt water is best suited for irrigation, because. strawberry seedlings react badly to excess salts.10. If strawberry shoots from seeds are too thick, thin out. 11. We dive when 2-3 true leaves appear.

We make sure that the spine is not bent up. First, we plant at the same depth, then carefully pour it to the cotyledon leaves. We water well so that the soil “sticks” to the roots. In this place, for the first time, we breathe a sigh of relief. The worst is behind.

Growing strawberries from seed. Master class + video

If you want to improve the health of your berry, try new interesting varieties and are not afraid of any difficulties, go for it! And we will help you with useful advice ... First of all, we advise you to pay attention to small-fruited varieties of remontant strawberries.

It is less capricious than strawberries, it costs less, and the chances of getting good seedlings a lot more. In the future, having gained experience, you will move on to growing and large-fruited varieties.

Sowing seeds of strawberries for seedlings

You can plant strawberries for seedlings both in February and in April. Everything will depend on your conditions. Those who are ready to provide the strawberries with the lightest window sill or to light up seedlings for 12-14 hours a day can safely sow seeds in early February and have the right to expect the first harvest of berries this season. Well, for those who have all the window sills already occupied by tomatoes and peppers, do not it is forbidden to plant strawberries in March or at the very beginning of April. Perhaps this season, such bushes will not be able to bear fruit, but next year they will show themselves in all their glory.

Soil preparation for strawberry seedlings

Option 4: 3 parts sand, 5 parts humus. Option 5: 2 parts sod land, 1 part sand, 1 part peat. Option 6: 3 parts sand, 1 part garden soil, 1 part humus.

In order to disinfect the soil as much as possible, it is either calcined, or frozen, or shed in advance with a solution of potassium permanganate.

The strawberry seeds that we have on hand, roughly speaking, are sleeping. Growth blockers work to the fullest - special substances that prevent the germination of seeds before the onset of a favorable period.

The task of the gardener is to artificially create all the conditions for the seeds so that they “come out of hibernation” faster and start growing. How to stratify strawberry seeds?

You can go the traditional way and keep the seeds on a damp cloth in the refrigerator for a week, and then carefully sow in the ground. Or you can “kill two birds with one stone” by combining stratification with sowing. Strawberry seeds are most conveniently sown in plastic containers with a lid, after making several drainage holes in their bottom.

They are not covered with earth, and the two or two and a half centimeters remaining to the top of the container are filled with snow. Close the lid of the container and send it to the refrigerator for two weeks. In the refrigerator, the snow will gradually melt and go into the soil, dragging the seeds with it.

This is exactly what happens in natural conditions spring. This is exactly what we wanted! After the expiration of the stratification period, the container with the planted seeds is put on the windowsill.

You don’t need to open the lid yet, you usually don’t need to water either (there is usually enough moisture from melted snow). But to arrange additional lighting not allowed. After 10-15 days (in some varieties after a month), the first shoots appear.

With the advent of seedlings, the lid of the box must be periodically opened (or holes made in it). Young seedlings are not recommended to be opened immediately and permanently in order to avoid rapid evaporation of moisture.

If the lid of the container looks a little foggy, everything is fine; if there is so much condensate that it collects in drops on the lid, then there is excess moisture in the soil, and it is necessary to ventilate the seedlings; if the lid is dry, then it's time to water. Strawberries are watered very carefully: either with drops along the walls of the container, or from a fine sprayer, or medical syringe. The most best water for irrigation - thawed.

Many people use tweezers to carefully hold each blade of grass. When picking, it is necessary to ensure that the root does not bend up.

First, the seedling is sprinkled with earth to the same depth, later, when the seedlings take root in a new place, they add earth to the cotyledon leaves, without falling asleep the growth point. The entire long stem of strawberry seedlings will be underground and will give additional roots.

Despite the fact that strawberries are much smaller in size than strawberries, in terms of the content of vitamins and useful substances they are far superior. In addition, there are no comparisons in terms of taste. Breeders are so good at breeding high-yielding varieties strawberries that they completely forgot about the taste. If you try a few berries with your eyes closed, then no one will be able to immediately know what exactly he is eating.

Going into the forest for real berries is not for everyone: sometimes there is not enough time, sometimes the forest is far from suitable. For such summer residents, there is only one way out - to breed real wild strawberries in their beds.

And how to do it? There are three ways.

So, with the seeds the issue is resolved, we can talk about the most good way seedling cultivation.

Today there is a fairly large selection, but you should not chase after the largest fruits in size, the main attention should be paid to zoning. Only such seedlings will give the maximum return, and the plants will bear fruit for a long time.

Practical advice. All yield promises written on a bag of seeds must be immediately reduced by at least 30%. This is the reality of life, ordinary summer residents never manage to achieve the indicators promised by the manufacturer.

When choosing seeds, you need to know that the smaller the fruit size of the variety, the more seeds in the bag and vice versa. Some large varieties will help to have only 5-10 pieces. seeds and must be handled with extreme care.

The exact timing of planting seeds depends on the climatic zone, but for most regions of our country, the month of March is considered suitable. For some, this is the beginning of the month, for others, the end or the first days of April. It's very difficult to guess. One of the main conditions for the survival of seedlings is timely planting in open ground. Here both haste and delay have very sad consequences. And what will spring be like when the earth warms up to desired temperature- nobody knows.

It must be remembered that hybrid varieties plants degenerate over time and lose their original properties. Plants gradually return to their natural state. What to do in such cases? There are two exits. Periodically after a few years, change strawberries or immediately select plants with minimal intervention from breeders. Let its fruits not have such an attractive appearance, but the plant bears fruit for many years without deteriorating its original properties.

Preparing seeds for sowing

During the cultivation of seedlings, it is necessary to create growing conditions as close as possible to natural ones, so they will wake up faster and begin to grow. Under natural conditions, strawberry seeds begin to be sown in early spring and fall on the snow. Such conditions lead to the destruction of growth inhibitors that inhibit the onset of awakening. To wake up, the seeds need to be put in the refrigerator for 2-3 days. IN step by step instructions we will tell you how experienced summer residents achieve quick germination without a refrigerator.

Very important. It is not necessary to sow strawberry seeds in pre-prepared furrows, such agricultural technology can significantly reduce germination. How to grow seedlings we will tell a little below.

Step-by-step instructions for growing strawberry seedlings

Step 1. Soil selection. For very small seeds, only high-quality soil should be selected. Experienced summer residents strongly recommend using living soil with humus, you can buy it at the store. In addition, it does not cake and there is a lot of air in the structure, and this is very important for strawberry seeds. Manufacturers can be different, the main thing is that it retains a maximum of natural bacteria. It is undesirable to use various pressed briquettes, including those made from peat. Practice shows that the germination of seeds and the development of seedlings on them is quite difficult.

Step 2. Put the soil in the selected trays. You can use trays for each seed, but it is very difficult to plant them one by one - some seeds resemble dust in size. It is better to take a large tray at once and plant all the seeds in it at the same time. Of course, after planting, you need to distribute them as evenly as possible over the entire area, try to avoid gaps and thickening. You can take an ordinary plastic container from under food products. This is very convenient: all such containers have a tight lid, and this is necessary to create the most favorable microclimate during cultivation.

Step 3 Moisten the soil, it is ideal to use melt water for this. It is advisable to do disinfection at the same time. You can use a weak infusion of potassium permanganate, but now it is almost impossible to buy it at a pharmacy. In this case, purchase any preparation for disinfection in the store. You need to water very well. excess water will leave in drainage holes.

Important. Water for irrigation should only be chilled, otherwise it is difficult to carry out stratification (awakening of seeds with cold).

Step 4. Bring some snow from the street and spread it in a layer of about 0.5-1 cm on the soil. Snow performs two tasks at the same time. The first one awakens the seeds to growth. The second is that small dugout seeds are clearly visible on it, which will allow them to be evenly distributed over the entire surface.

Important. Sowing seeds should be done as quickly as possible so that the snow does not have time to melt.

Step 5. On White list paper, carefully pour the seeds out of the bag, fold it in half and sow them on the soil. thin stick or use a toothpick to spread them evenly. Small seeds can be sown quite densely, the germination of strawberries is low, in best case up to 60%. If you have a large variety with a small amount of seeds, then they need to be sown with tweezers each separately.

This method of planting has another important advantage - the ground does not need to be watered from above. The fact is that strawberry seeds should never be covered with earth, and this always happens during watering. As the snow melts, the seeds themselves will sink to the soil, tightly pressed against it and at the same time will be all the time on the surface. It matters to everyone small seeds especially for strawberries.

Important. Small strawberry seeds should not be sown in dry land, and then watered with water. During watering, the soil will fail and cover the seeds, the germination rate will decrease sharply, only those that remain uncovered on the surface will sprout.

Step 6. Cover the container with a lid and place on the windowsill. The lid should be periodically opened for fresh air, monitor the humidity of the earth. If it is dry before germination, then in no case should it be watered from above. Pour water into the container under the seedlings, it will be absorbed through the drainage holes.

Important. Small dugout seeds grow immediately in the light, you can not darken them. If the weather is bad, then you need to illuminate with artificial light.

Step 7. As soon as the first shoots appeared (you can not wait for the appearance of leaves), you should carefully remove all the bores with two toothpicks and carefully transplant (dive) each into a separate container. During a dive, you need to make sure that the roots are covered with soil.

Important. During the transfer, try not to destroy the earthen ball at the roots, this will greatly improve further growth seedlings.

Seedling care

The main guarantee of healthy seedlings - good lighting. With a lack of light, it is strongly drawn out, the stems become thin and brittle. If the conditions are favorable, then the seedlings perfectly resist various diseases and pests. With the advent of the third leaflet, you can apply top dressing, there are many of them, choose according to the manufacturer's recommendations. It is advisable to buy with phytosporin, it protects weak seedlings from damage by a black fly.

Transplanting seedlings in open ground

At home, seedlings will not grow large, as in a store, but there is nothing to worry about.

Before transferring the seedlings, you need to level the plot of the bed, it is highly recommended to sprinkle it with compost or a layer of the same earth that was used during planting the seeds. Remontant varieties, when sown in March, will give the first harvest by the end of summer. If the varieties are not remontant, then the berries will be only the next year.

To speed up the ripening of berries, you can plant seeds for seedlings much earlier, for example, in January. But this technology is recommended to be used only in regions with a warm climate.

When seedlings saw little sunlight, then the first time after planting in open ground, it must be darkened, otherwise the leaves may get sunburn. If the plants developed in conditions with high temperatures, then before planting they must undergo a hardening procedure. To do this, take it out into the fresh air for a short period of time, then the stay on the street increases.

Video - Planting strawberry seedlings

How can you sow small strawberries directly from bags

This method is used by experienced summer residents, sowing is done directly into the ground. Before sowing, you need to prepare a bed, pour purchased land on it, and water it. In the same way as described above, put a layer of snow on top and sow strawberry seeds on it. From above you need to cover with a transparent plastic box, the lid from the cake packaging is great. In order for the cover not to be blown away by the wind, it should be pressed with any weight.

What are the advantages of such a method? Seeds from the very beginning receive the full spectrum of sunlight, from ultraviolet, which is not at all indoors, to visible and infrared. In addition, the temperature regime is familiar to plants. There is a night decrease, and daytime heating, the plants are hardened in natural conditions. Do not be afraid of possible frosts. Firstly, the seedlings are covered and for tangible damage, large negative temperatures are needed. Secondly, strawberries are not afraid of such stresses; for many years of evolution in the forest, they have become accustomed to various natural whims.

Features of caring for strawberries from seeds

More attention should be paid only to the initial period of seedling development in the open field, while the root system has not yet had time to penetrate to a great depth. It is advisable to mulch the bed, if it is not possible, then you need to carefully monitor the soil moisture.

Mulching is the covering of the surface of the earth around plants with any materials that regulate water and air conditions in the upper layers of the soil.

IN further strawberries can be propagated by bushes selected from the most developed rosettes.

Video - Growing strawberries from seeds

Most varieties of strawberries (garden strawberries) reproduce vegetatively - with a mustache, less often by dividing the bush. But there comes a time when these methods of reproduction become ineffective. Together with the vegetative planting material, the accumulated diseases are also transmitted to the young plant, strawberry seedlings become smaller, change (and not in better side) taste qualities of berries. The way out of this situation is the acquisition of a healthy planting material. It can be seedlings from a nursery or seed propagation. However, the purchased strawberry seedlings do not always meet our expectations.

If strawberries are running (heavily affected by fungal, bacterial and viral diseases), then the best way out of this situation is to switch to alternative propagation by seeds, and for 100% certainty that this is the strawberry variety you have chosen, you can prepare the seeds for sowing and grow seedlings on your own. The work is very exciting and in the first half of the year it will reward you with unusually tasty berries.

Comment. In this article, we call strawberries garden strawberries, or large-fruited strawberries, which is not entirely true from a botanical point of view, but is universally accepted in everyday life.

Step-by-step technology for growing strawberry seedlings from seeds

Buying Strawberry Seeds

Seeds can be purchased at a specialized store. It is better to buy seeds whose keeping quality exceeds the 12-month period. For beginner gardeners, varieties of small remontant beardless strawberries are more acceptable: Ali Baba, Baron Solimakher, Alpine. They have high germination and germination energy, which facilitates care, especially when germination and picking.

Of the other varieties capable of forming the first crop of berries when planted permanently in 3-4 months, you can use the varieties Koroleva Elizabeth, Alexandria, Moscow Debut, World Debut, Picnic, Temptation and others.

Isolation of strawberry seeds from berries

You can collect the seeds yourself. To do this, you need to ask for a few especially large, healthy, well-ripened strawberries from friends, neighbors, or take them from your own berry. If there are several varieties, then number each bag with berries, and write down the name of the variety and the date of selection of berries in the garden diary.

After picking the berries with a sharp blade, carefully cut off the top layer of pulp with seeds above the middle part of the fruit. The cut layer must be very thin, otherwise it will start to rot and the strawberry seeds will die. We place cut strips on gauze folded in several layers or cotton wool, another material with good liquid absorption.

Each variety of strawberries (if there are several) is numbered or signed by the name and laid out in a warm, dry place without direct sunlight. After a few days, the layer of pulp will dry out. Carefully fold the seed pad and rub it between your fingers or palms. Dry husks will release strawberry seeds. Sort them out and arrange them in thick paper bags or in glass jars. Seed material is stored in a dry place.

Preparation of soil mixture for sowing strawberry seeds

The composition of the soil mixture

To grow seedlings of any crop, a special soil mixture is needed, especially for small-seeded crops. For strawberries, you can offer several compositions of the soil mixture:

Mix 3 parts of high-moor peat with sand and biohumus, taken in 1 part,
mix leaf or sod land with sand and peat in a ratio of 2: 1: 1. Instead of peat, you can add mature humus or biohumus to the mixture,
mature humus and sand (5:3).

Instead of soil mixtures, some gardeners use peat tablets and you can buy a universal substrate for cassettes, pots and other containers. Suggested soil mixtures are optional. Experienced gardeners have many other options in their development.

Soil disinfection

In any soil mixture there are fungal, bacterial and viral pathogens, pests and their eggs. Therefore, the soil mixture must be disinfected in one of the following ways:

shed the soil with a 1% solution of potassium permanganate,
sprinkled on a tray and calcined in the oven for 1-2 hours at a temperature of +40 .. + 45 ° C,
in areas with frosty winters, the soil mixture is harvested from autumn and left in bags on the street to freeze.

Revitalization of the soil mixture

The disinfected soil mixture is filled with useful microflora. To do this, it is treated with biological products containing living beneficial microflora: Emochki-Bokashi, Baikal EM-1, Mikosan-M, Trichodermin, Planriz, Fitosporin and bioinsecticides - Boverin, Fitoverm, Aktofit.

For processing, you can use one or a tank mixture of biological products. After wet treatment, the soil mixture is kept wet for 7-10 days and dried to flowability at room temperature. In the prepared mixture, you can add some mineral fertilizers used for flower crops. Some novice gardeners, in order to reduce the amount preparatory work they simply buy ready-made substrate for strawberries or soil mixture for saintpaulias in flower shops.

Preparing strawberry seeds for sowing

About a week before sowing, strawberry seeds are disinfected in a potassium permanganate solution by placing gauze knots with seeds in a dark pink solution for 6-12 hours, then in a growth stimulator solution (Novosil, Narcissus, Kornevin and others) for 3-4 hours. Seeds are pressed and sent for hardening. To do this, 2 layers of bandage are moistened, the seeds are laid out and rolled up with a sausage. The sausage is placed standing in a container and sent to the refrigerator for the night, and during the day the workpiece is kept at room temperature +18..+22°C. And so repeat 3 days. It is not necessary to extend the hardening period. Seeds may germinate and die.

It is possible, without hardening, to place the seeds for stratification.

Stratification of strawberry seeds

The seeds of every crop that needs a rest period must be stratified. The duration of stratification depends on the requirements of the culture. Stratification is an artificial winter. During such a “winter”, the seeds go through several stages of development, as a result of which the dormancy period is reduced. Seeds germinate several times faster. So, strawberries germinate for more than 30-40 days, and after stratification in a warm room, the first shoots appear on the 4-5th day and massive after 1-2 weeks.

It is more convenient to carry out the stratification of strawberry seeds after sowing. Containers with seeded material are placed on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator, where they are kept at a temperature of +2..+4°C for the entire period of stratification. Containers are periodically opened for ventilation and humidification. The substrate must not dry out.

In cold areas, containers with seeded material are covered with a lid or film and placed outside under snow. After such a natural stratification, the container is transferred to a warm room. For large-fruited strawberry varieties, stratification should be long and take a period of time of at least 2-2.5 months.

You can stratify the seeds separately before sowing. In this case, the seeds are laid for stratification approximately in November-January. The laying time for stratification is counted from the time of sowing for seedlings. For stratification, strawberry seeds are laid out on moistened cotton swabs (round), covered with the same ones (also wet) on top and placed in a container on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator at a temperature of +4-..+5°C. Tampons periodically moisturize. At the end of stratification, the seeds are dried a little and sown in prepared containers.

Preparing containers for sowing strawberry seeds

At the bottom of a box or other container is placed drainage layer from coarse sand or fine gravel with a layer of 2-3 cm. From above, the prepared container is stuffed with a layer of soil mixture of 5-10 cm, not reaching the top of 1.5-2.0 cm. The soil mixture is slightly compacted with a palm, moistened. If there is snow, then scatter a 1-2 cm layer of snow. You can use the frost from the refrigerator. On a flat snowy surface, after 3-4 cm, with a light pressure of the ruler, grooves are made up to 0.2-0.3 cm deep with row spacing of 3 cm. The container is ready for sowing.

Sowing strawberry seeds

Sowing strawberry seeds in prepared containers is carried out in late March-early April. Some gardeners sow in February, but in this case, after germination, the seedlings need additional illumination to ensure the length of the day is 15-16 hours. With a lack of lighting, seedlings are drawn out, become frail, prone to disease and loss.

Strawberry seeds are laid out in a prepared container on the surface of the snow. Snow (hoarfrost) gradually melts and pulls the seeds to the desired depth. Cover with a lid or light film. with several holes pricked (to provide oxygen) If sowing was carried out before stratification, then (if necessary) the container with sowing is sent for stratification for 2-2.5 months under the snow on the street or in the refrigerator on the lower shelf before being moved to a warm room. If stratification is carried out before sowing, then the sowing is covered, imitating a mini-greenhouse, and exposed to a warm place with an air temperature of +18 .. + 20 ° С.

Care for strawberry seedlings

The first shoots after the passed stratification may appear on the 4-5th day, and mass shoots after 2-3 weeks. As soon as the first shoots appear, provide the air temperature + 23-.. + 25 ° C in the first week, which will contribute to a more friendly emergence of shoots. Then transfer the containers with strawberry seedlings to a cool place, with an air temperature of no more than +15 .. + 18 ° С (to colder window sills or to other places). This is necessary so that the seedlings do not stretch. Both during and after germination, the substrate must be kept moist (not wet). Wipe or turn the glass and film daily to prevent condensation from getting on the seedlings.

When the first leaves of the strawberry shoots straighten out, the coating is gradually removed, accustoming young seedlings to increased light and temperature. During this period, the optimum air temperature will be +18..+20°С. Watering is not needed. At lower temperatures and high humidity weak sprouts can rot. With the full development of 1-2 true leaves, the cover from the seedlings is removed and the young seedlings are transferred to a lighted place, but not under direct sunlight. The air temperature is reduced to +10..+15°С.

Further care for strawberry seedlings

Further care of the seedlings includes moistening the soil, top dressing, adding soil to the growing seedlings, picking. At first, strawberry seedlings are watered under the root literally from a pipette in the aisle once a week. To avoid a fungal infection, 1-2 waterings with a gap of 2-3 weeks can be carried out with a solution of biofungicides - planriz, trichodermin, trichopol and others according to the instructions.

If a grown strawberry seedling leaned to one side under a load of leaves, sand or a mixture of sand with fine humus is poured under the base of the stalk, but so as not to cover the central part (heart) of the seedlings. With this addition, young plants quickly form additional roots.

Picking strawberry seedlings

Picking is best done in the phase of 3-4 developed leaves. Some gardeners dive plants during the formation of 2-3 leaves and sometimes carry out 2 dives: in phases of 2-3 and 4-5 leaves, especially if the seedlings have grown and the weather is cold outside. You choose the number of picks yourself weather conditions. We divide the soil mixture in the container into squares with sides of 8x8 or 10x10 cm. In the middle of the square, we make holes with a picking peg, sufficient to freely accommodate the roots of the strawberry seedling. We pre-water the seedlings so that they are easily removed from the parent soil by the cotyledon leaves.

The stem must not be touched when picking! Having taken out the strawberry seedling, we pinch the central root and place the plant in a new place. Gently fall asleep and squeeze the soil around and water in a thin stream so as not to flood the growing point of the seedlings.

Feeding strawberry seedlings

After picking, strawberry seedlings can be fed. We carry out top dressing every 10-12 days with fertilizers containing mainly phosphorus and potassium and little nitrogen. Water-soluble fertilizers are optimal - solute, Kemira with the addition of a 2% solution of iron chelate and trace elements.

Planting seedlings of strawberries in open ground

Before planting in open ground, we harden strawberry seedlings. Approximately 7-10 days before planting, we gradually (starting from 2-4 hours and up to round-the-clock maintenance) take out the seedlings in unheated premises. 1-2 days before transplanting, we leave the seedlings indoors (on the balcony, attic) at a temperature of + 10 ° C around the clock.

In the south, we plant seedlings in open ground in the middle or last decade of May, later in the northern regions. We choose the period when the soil warms up to + 12 ° C and the threat of return frosts passes. Further care is normal. You can propagate this strawberry in the next 2-5 years with a mustache, layering, dividing the bush. Then again you need to heal the variety through seed propagation.

Strawberries are a berry that can captivate everyone with its aroma. That is why the decision to "grow strawberries" is made by many gardeners. Is it possible to grow a clearing of red "thimble" on your 7 acres?

Strawberry educational program

Seeds propagate small-fruited remontant varieties of strawberries that do not form a mustache. It is not easy to grow mature, well-bearing plants from seeds. Small-fruited strawberries transmit parental traits by seeds, which cannot be said about large-fruited garden strawberries, which are well known as strawberries. When propagated by seeds, strawberry "children" do not repeat the signs of "parents".

In addition, there is no guarantee that the characteristics and characteristics of the variety will be preserved. Do not forget that strawberry pollination occurs with the participation of insects, which means that the seeds may be pollinated by sorting from neighbors.

Such plants quickly turn into a wild form, degenerate: varieties lose their characteristics, the berries become smaller and change shape.

A completely different matter is remontant small-fruited strawberries. It forms flower buds and bears fruit continuously throughout the summer, allowing it to be harvested from late May until frost.

The difference from wild strawberries lies, first of all, in the size of berries, which is 4-5 times larger than the forest "brother". It should be noted that the fragrant berry is very rich in iron, pectins, which remove radionuclides from the body.

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Growing strawberries and wild strawberries: choosing a method

The modern agricultural segment offers many varieties of small-fruited remontant strawberries.

When purchasing seeds, pay attention to their expiration date.

Such varieties as "Ruyana", "Baron Solemacher", "Ryugen", "Pineapple", "Renaissance", "Alexandria" and "White Swan" received steady authority with their high taste qualities. Among the varieties presented above, everyone can find a berry to their taste and even color. In addition, strawberry varieties differ in the presence and absence of mustaches. "Beardless" varieties are able to propagate only by seeds or by dividing the bush (vegetatively).

In a vegetative way, it is carried out due to the division of the main bush. From one "parent" bush, you can get 10-20 seedlings. Such plants do not require special care, primarily due to the absence of a mustache. But the yield of such bushes is very high. With the right agricultural technology, at least 200 strawberries can be harvested from a well-developed plant per season, which is 4 cups in a more familiar recalculation.

The disadvantage of growing strawberries from seeds is the complexity of the process. To obtain a decent result, stratification is applied to the seeds at a low positive temperature in a humid environment.

Germination time in soil is 40 days. All this time, the soil must be sufficiently moist, which in turn is an ideal condition for the appearance of fungi and mold, the main objective which - to destroy the results of your efforts. If you are not afraid of difficulties, then it's time to get to work.

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Growing strawberries in peat tablets

The optimal time for sowing strawberry seeds in peat tablets is the end of January - the 20th of February. It should be noted that there are no time restrictions in growing seedlings, and planting can be carried out all year round. The recommended time frame is determined by the fact that by the time of planting in the ground, the seedlings will gain sufficient mass and acquire a good root system. By following this recommendation, you can count on getting the first harvest in the year of planting.

When growing strawberries in the early stages, it is necessary to illuminate the seedlings with fluorescent bulbs, since winter period short daylight hours are inherent, and strawberry seeds can germinate only in the light. If you refuse to illuminate the seedlings, then you will have to sow the seeds in March-April. When choosing the time for sowing, one should be guided by the fact that at least 5 months pass from the moment of emergence of seedlings to the harvest of a fragrant crop.

Most effective method growing seedlings of strawberries and wild strawberries is the use of peat tablets. The advantage of this method is not only the possibility of obtaining strong seedling, but also in the absence of the need to dive young strawberry bushes. In addition, the peat tablet contains a complex of mineral fertilizers that can nourish young plant within a few weeks. And the peat itself is distinguished by high rates of water and air permeability, which allows the root system to develop unhindered.

It is possible to grow seedlings of strawberries without peat tablets, however, with further planting, damage to the root system may occur, unlike tablets, the mesh system of which allows the roots to find a comfortable position. In the future, the base of the tablet completely decomposes in the ground, without causing damage to the soil.

Peat tablets have different diameter from 24 to 44 mm. Considering that strawberry bushes do not have a powerful root system, tablets with a diameter of 24 or 33 mm will suffice.

After placing the tablets in cassettes or on a pallet, pour them warm water(complete swelling of the tablets takes 5-10 minutes). In the process, the tablet increases in height by 7 times, but retains the original diameter. After 5-10 minutes, drain the excess water and place the seeds in the recess at the top of the tablet, exercise this work a regular toothpick will help. Strawberry seeds can only germinate in the light, so they should not be placed deep in the ground. The light that comes from the window will be sufficient at this stage. Tablets should be placed in a mini-greenhouse or greenhouse.

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Features of the pre-seedling period

Cultivation of strawberries in tablets should take place under conditions of elevated temperature and relative humidity. These conditions can be met by covering the containers with glass, plastic or plastic wrap. When choosing a container for seedlings, you should give preference to transparent plastic dishes, which are least susceptible to the formation of fungi.

The optimum germination temperature is 20-22°C, at this temperature, fog and drops form on the surface of the lid, which must be removed. If the temperature does not reach 20 ° C, the result of the efforts will only be the appearance of mold.

Before the appearance of sprouts on the surface, it is necessary to moisten the containers by pouring water into the pan as the tablet dries. For irrigation, soft snow or boiled water, since an excess of mineral salts has Negative influence on the growth of strawberry seedlings. Sufficiency of watering is determined by the appearance of a dark spot on the peat column. Remember the need for daily ventilation, which is carried out for several minutes and can be combined with the removal of condensate.

The first unfriendly shoots of strawberries may appear in 7-10 days, and full germination can be expected in 20-30 days. During this period, it is advisable to bring seedlings of strawberries and strawberries closer to the light or put additional phytolamps or fluorescent lamps. With insufficient illumination, seedlings are more likely to get sick and development is slower. Additional lighting within 12-14 hours will be enough for strawberries. In clear weather, the light can be turned off for several hours, in cloudy weather - left for the whole time.

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The holiday of the "first leaf" and the features of seedling care

Growing strawberries can be accompanied by the appearance of cobweb fibers of white mold. Having spotted the “enemy”, it is urgent to get rid of the fungus by removing the foci of spread with cotton wool or soft paper moistened with potassium permanganate. After that, it is desirable to carry out watering with antifungal agents.

After the appearance of three true leaves, the greenhouse can be opened. After it is possible to count 3-4 pairs of true leaves on strawberry seedlings, the seedling must be transferred into a cup with purchased universal soil.

For this purpose, you can use disposable plastic cups (do not forget to make a few holes in the bottom). If the seedling is stretched out, add soil to the cotyledon leaves. When diving seedlings of strawberries and strawberries, it is important not to fill up the growth point, from which the leaves grow.

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Planting seedlings in open ground

After the strawberry gives roots, it must be accustomed to fresh air And natural light. From April to daytime take out the seedlings for several hours on the balcony. Before planting young plants in open ground, place cups with seedlings on outdoors in the shadow. And only after that, plant the grown and strengthened rosettes of strawberries in the garden.

Landing is carried out on the condition that the air temperature does not fall below 5-7 ° C. Experts recommend moving on to the open ground stage when the sixth true leaf appears on young bushes. The distance between the bushes should not be less than 25cm.

In plants planted in open ground in September, it is desirable to remove flowers and mustaches, providing the opportunity to take root well and winter safely.

Seedlings of strawberries and strawberries at home

And now a large number of them have appeared on sale, including large-fruited remontant varieties. Large-fruited garden strawberries - "strawberries" - and small-fruited alpine strawberries are sown in the same way. Dates of sowing strawberries for seedlings At home, strawberries are sown for seedlings in late February-early March.

At an earlier date, strawberries are sown in nurseries, when it is necessary to put up ready-made seedlings for sale at the beginning of the season. If there is no such goal, there is no need to rush. In the absence of additional illumination, start sowing in the first decade of March.

Preparation of strawberry seeds for sowing - soaking and stratification Spread strawberry seeds between two cotton pads or pieces of clean cloth folded in 2-3 layers. Place them in a microwave container or other container, moisten, close the lid, having previously made several holes in it for ventilation.

If you have multiple varieties, label them. Hold them for 2-3 days at a temperature of +15 ... + 18 ° C, then put the soaked strawberry seeds in the refrigerator for 2 weeks. Some gardeners advise putting ready-made crops in the refrigerator.

But stratification in a container is much more convenient: it takes up less space. After 2 weeks, place the container in a warm (+18...+20°C) bright place.

Add water until it is no longer absorbed by the tablets. Drain the excess. Spread the "pricks" into the recesses in the tablets. It is very convenient to do this with a toothpick.

It is better to feed strawberry seedlings with humates or a solution of mineral fertilizers for seedlings. If the weather allows, from the end of April to the beginning of March, you can start hardening on a balcony or glazed veranda. At first, cover the seedlings from direct sunlight and wind.

A short-term night temperature drop to +3...+5°C is even useful. Planting strawberries in the ground You can plant seedlings in the ground after June 10.

Its amount depends on the initial state of the beds. If it is cultivated garden land, 0.5 buckets of humus and peat per 1 sq.m. are enough. If the soil is clay, double the amount of humus and peat and add 0.5 buckets of sand.

Seal. Carefully, so as not to erode the ground around the bush, water the strawberry seedlings. And one more tip: it is convenient to grow small-fruited strawberries in narrow beds in no more than 2 rows. The distance between the rows is 35-40 centimeters.

How to grow strawberries from seed

Step-by-step instructions for growing strawberries from seeds

Small berries will not disappoint you - almost all small varieties compensate for the size with a wonderful smell and taste. Now many remontant and beardless varieties are on sale.

8. After the "wintering" we put the container with strawberry seeds on a cold windowsill. We do not remove the film or cover. If there is little light, we use artificial lighting.

Before landing in the ground, it remains not to abuse it with watering, or vice versa - do not dry it. Don't rush to fertilize, that's later.

Growing strawberries from seed. Master class + video

Sunday, January 19, 2014 9:13 pm + to quote pad

It is less capricious than strawberries, it costs less, and there are much more chances to get good seedlings. In the future, having gained experience, you will move on to growing large-fruited varieties.

Sowing seeds of strawberries for seedlings

Soil preparation for strawberry seedlings

Option 4: 3 parts sand, 5 parts humus. Option 5: 2 parts sod land, 1 part sand, 1 part peat. Option 6: 3 parts sand, 1 part garden soil, 1 part humus.

In order to disinfect the soil as much as possible, it is either calcined, or frozen, or shed in advance with a solution of potassium permanganate.

Stratification of seeds and sowing for seedlings

The task of the gardener is to artificially create all the conditions for the seeds so that they “come out of hibernation” faster and start growing. How to stratify strawberry seeds?

Such a container is filled with soil mixture, not reaching the edge by a couple of centimeters. Slightly moisten the soil so that small seeds do not fall too deep, and then evenly distribute the seeds over the surface.

Something like this happens in natural conditions in the spring. This is exactly what we wanted! After the expiration of the stratification period, the container with the planted seeds is put on the windowsill.

You don’t need to open the lid yet, you usually don’t need to water either (there is usually enough moisture from melted snow). But to arrange additional lighting is not forbidden. After 10-15 days (in some varieties after a month), the first shoots appear.

Caring for seedlings of strawberries before planting in the ground

Constant moisture (but not waterlogging) of the soil is one of the key points in growing strawberry seedlings. When sowing seeds in a plastic transparent container with a lid, it is very convenient to monitor the level of humidity.

If the lid of the container looks a little foggy, everything is fine; if there is so much condensate that it collects in drops on the lid, then there is excess moisture in the soil, and it is necessary to ventilate the seedlings; if the lid is dry, then it's time to water. Strawberries are watered very carefully: either with drops along the walls of the container, or from a fine sprayer, or with a medical syringe. The best water for irrigation is melted water.

Many people use tweezers to carefully hold each blade of grass. When picking, it is necessary to ensure that the root does not bend up.

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