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Beds for the lazy: photos, ideas, ways to implement them. Beds on sod, virgin soil with your own hands without digging Narrow beds how to make them

This article discusses the beds for the lazy: photos of the easiest structures to manufacture for those who want to get a neat garden with a minimum of effort, the most common materials and technologies for creating structures based on them. The reader will learn how to combine vegetable crops in one garden and prepare the soil for planting cucumbers. The article contains practical advice for beginner gardeners.

Design right beds in the garden will become a solution to many problems and open up new opportunities for the owner of a summer cottage:

• protection against soil erosion in the garden when a large amount of precipitation falls or watering plants. The bed borders will keep the nutrient soil in place, preventing it from washing out onto the paths. In addition, the passages between the structures themselves will remain clean, no dirty puddles and streaks;

• the possibility of forming the basis for the creation of a temporary greenhouse on spring period. By installing high sides as fences, inside the structure you can organize a multi-layered garden bed, which can be used as a greenhouse. To do this, it is enough to install special arcs and stretch the film. The result is a neat greenhouse house;
• improvement appearance gardens due to ordered and even plantings with a beautiful frame;
• creating borders that prevent the spread of weeds.

Making do-it-yourself beds from boards and other materials allows you to clearly limit the landing area, thanks to which weeds and harmful plants unable to spread widely. If the fence of the garden is dug in to a great depth, the level of protection increases and perennial weeds that are unable to overcome this barrier can no longer penetrate into the garden.

Note! With the help of beds with well-buried fences, the spread of plants such as reeds and couch grass is effectively blocked. Their root system is capable of covering large distances underground if left unchecked.

Photos of interesting designs of beds, recommendations for their creation. Design Tips for the Unusual landscape design Location on.

by the most the best place is an area where the sun is present throughout the day. It is allowed to install beds where the shadow is present in the morning or in the afternoon. If the proposed construction zone is dark throughout the day, you should not use this place for arranging a garden.

How best to make beds in the garden: choosing the optimal design

The choice of the design of the beds is carried out at an early stage of planning, when a place for the garden has already been selected.

Each type of beds has certain advantages:

• raised or - the most efficient designs which are best suited for growing vegetable crops. Construction Materials to create them they are not expensive, while the soil does not need to be dug up. The width and height of the structures determine how much effort and time it will take to build them. Most often, summer residents prefer wooden beds made of planks. On the network you can find photos of bulk beds with your own hands, such structures do not have a fence. They are also categorized as elevated structures;

• container beds - will be beneficial in cases where the space of the site is limited. For organizing such beds, pots of small, large and medium sizes are suitable. Garlic, peppers, lettuce and greens feel especially good in containers. Mobility is another advantage of container beds, which, if desired, can be rearranged to any place;
• beds in open field- the oldest way of growing crops that are planted directly in the ground. In such conditions, it is more difficult to get a good harvest, so the technology of joint planting vegetables in the garden is often used.

Helpful advice! If it is planned to plant crops in open ground, it is recommended to determine the quality of the soil, fertilize it and check the compatibility of vegetables in the garden according to the table.

How to make beds from boards with your own hands: useful tips

Most often, raised beds are made of wood. This material in comparison with others is considered the most practical and environmentally friendly. Similar designs look very aesthetically pleasing in the photo. Do-it-yourself beds from boards have other advantages:

• a simple maintenance system that involves easy weeding, harvesting and watering plants;
• the possibility of growing vegetable crops even where the soil is completely unsuitable for these purposes. On the basis of the boards, a frame is made, which is subsequently filled with fertile soil bought in a store, so there is no connection to the quality of the earth and its composition. Thanks to this, plants can be grown even in areas with a rocky surface;

• box structures allow you to keep the soil inside the beds. In addition, the presence of sides simplifies the process of mounting arcs to form a greenhouse. It is much easier to fix these elements on the fence than to dig them into the soil;
• even without knowing how to properly make beds in the garden, any summer resident will cope with the manufacture of wooden structures-boxes. The boards are easy to process, and the construction and assembly of the frame does not require an expensive tool;
• there is no chance that plants planted near the sides will get burned in the summer heat. Wood, unlike metal, is not prone to overheating.

Note! The ecological purity of the material allows you not to worry that harmful substances. Wood is much safer than asbestos-cement sheets (slate). The exception is boards treated chemicals designed to double the life of the material.

Making practical beds from boards: how to make the right choice of material

Summer residents most often create wooden structures on the basis of blanks that are found on the farm. For the manufacture of beds, timber, round timber, slab, lining can be used.

When we are talking on the purchase of boards in the store, should be given Special attention the type of wood from which they are made:

• a board made of ash or oak will last a very long time. Although the cost of such products is quite high;
• pine remains the most favorable in terms of price and processing. But this type of wood is highly susceptible to decay while in the ground, so its service life is short. Due to impregnations and antiseptic agents, the life of a pine tree can be extended for a couple of years;
• boards made of cedar and larch wood are considered the most suitable material for making boxes. Larch has a natural impregnation with resin, thanks to which the product will retain its novelty for many years without the use of additional impregnations. Cedar wood is characterized by a lower resin content, but it is not inferior to larch in terms of durability and at the same time has an affordable price;

• boards made on the basis of acacia feel good in the ground. It is worth noting that this type of wood is durable and has a solid structure, so the process of processing it will be more difficult. To work with acacia, you need a powerful electric tool.

Helpful advice! It is not recommended to save on the quality of the material. Boards made of bad wood are prone to rapid decay. After a few years, holes will appear on the fences of the beds, through which fertile soil will be washed out during rains and watering plants.

Making beds from boards with your own hands: photos, dimensions of structures

The beds-boxes have rectangular shape and made from boards. The simplest design does not require special knowledge and skills, so any novice summer resident will cope with its manufacture. The main thing at the same time is to correctly calculate the dimensions of the boxes.

• height- many summer residents strive to create the highest possible sides. However, this approach is erroneous if it is not planned to build a warm bed for cucumbers or other types of crops, where a fence height of up to 0.7 m is welcome. The manufacturing technology of such structures requires the laying of a multilayer insulation. For ordinary beds, such high fences are not required, it is enough to limit yourself to 0.15-0.2 m. In addition, wood is susceptible to deformation changes under the influence of moisture, so there is a risk that over time, high fences will swell and lose their attractive shape;

• width – experienced gardeners it is recommended to choose a width equal to half the height of the person who will take care of the beds. Most often, this parameter is in the range of 0.9-1.2 m, because in the process of work, a person should be able to reach the middle of the structure from the side of the side rail;
• length- this parameter is practically unlimited. Although unnecessarily long structures reduce the level of rigidity of the side rails, it is therefore recommended to choose a length in the range of 4-6 m.

Helpful advice! When choosing dimensional parameters for wooden beds, it should be taken into account that between them it is necessary to organize passages 0.4-0.6 m wide. Only after that is the layout of structures on the site considered.

Creating mixed plantings of vegetables in the garden: photo examples and optimal schemes

The method of combining cultures in practice is very effective if the companion plants are chosen well. Therefore, site owners calculate according to a special table of the neighborhood of vegetables in the beds before planting. Some types of vegetables have a depressing effect on each other, others can improve the growth and development of neighbors, provide them with protection from pests.

The correct neighborhood of vegetables in the beds: compatibility table

Many gardeners note that due to the proximity of beans as a compaction for the beds where potatoes are grown, the amount colorado potato beetle. Marigolds effectively protect cabbage from white butterflies. Despite this, a certain balance must be maintained. After all, an excessive amount of marigolds in the garden can drown out the growth of cabbage.

Table of neighboring vegetables in the garden, creating a successful tandem:

The name of the vegetable crop	Plants for a successful combination
strawberry	beans, spinach, marigolds, garlic, lettuce
kohlrabi	cucumber, lettuce, onion, beetroot
peas	carrot, corn, cucumber, calendula, eggplant
onion	tomato, celery, beetroot, savory, carrot
beans	potato, cucumber, tomato, strawberry, eggplant
cucumber	radish, pepper, peas, cabbage, beans
carrot	lettuce, onion, sage, tomato, peas
salad	strawberry, cucumber, carrot, radish
pepper	lettuce, cucumber, beans
tomato	calendula, basil, beans, nasturtium, parsley

The following pairs of plants are characterized by poor compatibility of planting vegetables in the garden:

• cabbage and strawberries;
• onions and beans;
• carrots and celery, dill, parsley;
• cucumbers and potatoes.

Helpful advice! In the garden, in addition to the main crops, it is recommended to plant spicy and ornamental herbs pointwise. Thus, the garden will be not only beautiful, but also useful.

Examples of mixed planting vegetables in the garden: popular schemes

A good example of the compatibility of vegetables in the garden is the combination of onions and carrots. As an independent crop, onions are able to produce about 2.5 kg of yield from 1 m² of beds. Carrots on the same area gives about 6 kg of crop. With the joint cultivation of these crops with 1 m², you can get 9 kg of vegetables. These plants create protective barriers for each other against pests, so the efficiency of the used area increases.

Of course, when planning a co-growing of crops in a garden, you need to group the plants according to their height so that none of them blocks the light for the other. This is necessary because vegetables can not only have different heights, but also grow with different speed. It is desirable that compactors that are planted additionally be lower in height than the main vegetables. The principle of a multi-tiered neighborhood of vegetables in the beds allows you to create favorable conditions for the root system of crops, and also contributes to rational use solar energy.

High yields are collected from the beds where beets and late cabbage are planted. To do this, beets (9 plants) and cabbage (4 bushes) should be planted on an area of ​​\u200b\u200b0.8x0.8 m, while not forgetting to fertilize the holes with a glass of compost and a handful of eggshells (pre-grind).

To obtain excellent result when planting beans and tomatoes, it is recommended to place the plants in a row with a step of 0.3 m. It is installed along the row with bush beans so that each plant is at the dropper. Tomatoes are planted in the central part of the garden. As a result, bean and tomato bushes should be staggered.

Helpful advice! It is better to cut the stems of tomatoes for the winter, and as low as possible. And the beans, on the contrary, are recommended to be left untouched.

Table of crop rotation of vegetables in the beds by crop groups

Crop rotation can also affect the yield of beds. If the annual change of crops grown in the same garden is carried out in the correct order, the garden will produce good yields.

Benefits of proper crop rotation:

• the probability of soil fatigue on the site is excluded, since the same vegetable every year absorbs the same set from the soil nutrients and he does it from the same depth;
• the spread of diseases and pests that infect plants of the same family is prevented;
• it becomes possible to rationally use fertilizers.

The most primitive way of organizing crop rotation in the garden involves planting plants from different families on the same area every year. It is easiest to break cultures into four groups:

1. Leaf crops - these include various types of cabbage, green onions, leaf lettuce and also spinach.
2. Fruit vegetables - cucumbers, tomatoes, eggplant, peppers, pumpkin.
3. Legumes - beans, chickpeas, peas.
4. Root crops - potatoes, beets, radishes, carrots.

Table of the simplest crop rotation in the garden:

Order of disembarkation by year	Recommended crops for planting
	1st bed	2nd bed	3rd bed	4th bed
1 year	fruit	roots	legumes	leafy
2 year	roots	legumes	leafy	fruit
3 year	legumes	leafy	fruit	roots

Arrangement of beds for cucumbers in the open field: photos and recommendations

For growing cucumbers in open ground, the beds are usually prepared in the fall. This should be done before the onset of rain and temperature drops. The planting area must be carefully dug up and saturated with organic fertilizers. Cucumbers like fertile, light soil that has good level air and water permeability. If the soil in the area is heavy, sawdust, peat or sand can be added to the ground to facilitate loosening.

Helpful advice! To get a rich harvest, it is recommended to add a tablespoon of superphosphate and a glass of ash per 1 m² of area. Instead of ash, you can use dolomite flour.

The process of preparing the beds for cucumbers in the spring includes the procedure for disinfecting the soil. For this, the place of the future garden is spilled with potassium permanganate. The solution should be hot and strong. In addition, soil fertility can be increased by introducing chicken manure or manure. This procedure carried out locally, that is, the fertilizer is placed directly into the trench or hole. After that, the bed is covered with a small layer of soil, where the seeds are then planted.

How to make a bed for cucumbers: agricultural secrets

To get a rich harvest of cucumbers from the garden, you must adhere to the basic rules:

1. Near the beds should not be canals for irrigation, streams and flowing reservoirs.
2. If the planting area does not have protection, the garden is best placed in a quiet place where there are no drafts.
3. Procedures such as watering and loosening the soil should be performed on a regular basis. Otherwise, a hard crust will form on the surface, and the bed will dry out a lot.
4. Cucumbers grown in open ground need to be fed much more often than plantings growing in closed beds.
5. During harvesting, it is not recommended to change the position of the lashes of the plant or turn them over.
6. Weeding plants in open beds need to be done more often than it is done indoors.
7. It is recommended to cover the entire surface of the bed with a black film.

Cucumbers need a rich biological composition of the soil. Therefore, it is recommended to fertilize the land with organic matter, for example, grass, humus, branches, rotted manure, food waste. In the process of their decomposition, not only the fertility of the soil increases, but also heat is released, warming the soil. To prevent high temperatures from damaging root system cucumbers, experienced summer residents are advised to carry out abundant watering.

Interesting fact! Sometimes the decomposition of organic fertilizers is so active that the soil in the garden warms up to 80 ° C. Under the influence of such high temperature many pests, viruses and pathogenic fungi contained in the earth die. The result is a natural sterilization of the soil.

There are several ways to grow cucumbers outdoors. For these purposes, you can form a long ridge bed, a hole, dig a ditch, or build a high structure.

How to make beds for cucumbers with a bookmark in the garden

To form a bed with a bookmark, you will need to dig a trench. The depth of the ditch should be equal to two shovels. Then branches are laid out across and sawdust is poured. The next layer consists of straw and garden waste. Can add autumn leaves, cardboard or newspapers, compost. The thickness of the fertilizer layer should be within 5-7 cm. The bookmark is poured warm water and covered with a mixture of compost and earth.

A bed with a bookmark can effectively serve for 5 years. In the second year of operation, it will not be necessary to add to upper layer compost, because during the decomposition of organic components, the bed itself will produce nutrients.

Advantages of a bed for growing cucumbers with a bookmark:

• convenient irrigation system;
• water stagnation is excluded;
• in the spring you do not need to dig up the soil, it is enough to loosen the soil.

Plants can be planted on such a nutrient base much earlier than is customary to do in ordinary beds. It is not recommended to use beds with a bookmark in low-lying areas and areas where water stagnates.

Warm surface beds for cucumbers in the open field

This type of warm beds for growing cucumbers is built on the surface of the prepared soil. This technology will become the best option for areas that are located in the lowlands. In order to enhance the heating process, the bed is covered with a film. As a result, a greenhouse effect is formed, which has a positive effect on the growth of cucumbers and their yield.

Surface beds also include structures in the form of boxes made of brick, slate or boards. The bottom of these containers is covered with sand, then wood waste. Next comes the layer organic waste and straw. After laying each component, the contents are carefully compacted and filled with liquid manure. Finally, the bed is covered with a mixture consisting of and soil.

Helpful advice! As organic waste, skins of vegetables and fruits, fallen leaves, eggshell(ground to powder).

Cucumbers are planted in two rows. Plants are placed along the edges of the bed-box, which ensures a sufficient level of illumination. If you plan to plant cucumbers in early spring, structures can be converted into greenhouses. To do this, you need to install plastic arcs and pull on them polyethylene film. Thus, heating is enhanced and it becomes possible to obtain early harvest. Moreover, the result is completely independent of weather conditions.

Raised beds for cucumbers in the open field

Warm beds with a raised structure are used when the site is located in a region with a cold and humid climate. Due to this, there is a full warming up of the soil, which allows to achieve a crop on early dates. If they come too close to the garden ground water, the bed rises high, due to which the plantings do not get wet on soil supersaturated with moisture. Planted in the same way stone fruit trees, whose roots are severely affected by groundwater.

Various materials are used as borders for these structures. The most popular of them are slate and wood. In rare cases, metal is used. This type of beds can be installed even in the middle of the lawn. If you make a frame in the form of paving stones or tiles, a raised garden with cucumbers will become a worthy decoration of your summer cottage.

As alternative solution it is possible to build an artificial hill on the territory that does not have a fence. You can take any length for such a bed, the optimal width parameter is 1 m. You should not raise the decorative garden to a height of more than 1 m. The air that remains in the voids formed between the elements of large organic matter provides good ventilation and contributes to the rapid heating of the soil.

To speed up the process of decomposition of fertilizers, the soil is spilled with a solution saturated with special bacteria. The procedure is carried out twice a year. The first time the soil is watered with bacteria in the spring. Before planting plants after processing the beds, you should wait at least a week. The second time the soil is spilled in the fall after the crop is harvested. When the earth has already been treated with the composition, it should be loosened so that the soil is saturated with oxygen, and the preparation itself is evenly distributed.

How to make beds in the garden: a video review of technology

I work, so I can only go to the summer cottage on weekends. At the same time, you need to relax after a working week, eat barbecue, take a steam bath, and, well, work a little on the ground. Currently, there are several problems in horticulture: soil fertility is declining. The earth becomes dense, depleted and has grey colour. The fall in fertility entails a decrease in harvested crops.

Application mineral fertilizers and pesticides leads to contamination of soil, water, air and food, which leads to human diseases. Traditional agricultural practices used by most gardeners are very labor intensive. And this reduces the interest in gardening among young people.

However, all these problems are easily solved if instead of traditional farming, natural farming is used. Such agricultural technology not only preserves, it also restores soil fertility. The result is an increase in productivity. horticultural crops. Mineral fertilizers are not used, which preserves the purity of Nature and maintain human health. A number of horticultural operations in natural agricultural technology are used less frequently than in traditional ones. And some are completely missing. All this reduces the labor intensity of cultivating the land and caring for plants.

In my opinion, it is more important to return to nature and forget the postulate that the soil must be stuffed with fertilizers, torn with shovels and sprinkled with pesticides. natural farming- this is, first of all, gentle tillage, protecting it from temperature changes, the return of nutrients that the earth has generously given to plants.

Every year in the spring, coming to our summer cottage, we sow or plant vegetables in our beds. The size of the beds is from 1.4 meters to 2 meters wide, the paths between them are from 20 cm to 40 cm maximum. This is called the traditional way of planting vegetables. to the garden.

The plant in such beds, especially in the middle, often get sick, rot, and because of this they develop poorly, vegetables are small, and are not stored for a long time. But for pests, a weakened plant and good nutrition, and offspring can be postponed near it. Weeding, processing such beds is one torment.

But on such a bed I saw one positive side. The outermost plants, relative to those located in the middle, looked more worthy. Larger ones are not susceptible to disease and are easy to weed, thin out, etc.

I also thought about another factor. A single tree along the alleys within the city, no one feeds it, the foliage that it throws off, and then they try to remove it for appearance and beauty. Although this foliage could serve as top dressing for the tree. So why does this tree exist and where does it get its food? Behind last years scientists have found that about 60% of the plant takes food from the air. It's certainly interesting.

The unpredictability of our Far Eastern climate, high drops temperatures, night and day, dry or rainy summers, excessive rainfall towards the end of August and early September confirmed the methods of growing vegetables that I had chosen over many years of trial and error. I came to the conclusion that we need to look for another way that is less time consuming, but at the same time with the possibility of obtaining higher yields.

I combined two technologies.

1. "Narrow ridges - a unique vegetable growing technology for small areas."
2. "Agrotechnics of natural farming".

I became convinced that it is organics that can reveal all the possibilities of plants, saving time and energy.. Only on good compost can one see and appreciate the quality of Western and domestic varieties: most of them are created for organic soil. I am sure: we can’t get away from organic matter.

That's all there is to it: learn how to compost and also arrange stationary beds - once for many years.

Vegetable growing on narrow ridges was developed by J. Mitlider in the 70s of the last century and brought by the author to Russia in 1989.

But blindly copying techniques and advice, even the best, will not lead to anything. It should be creativity and to understanding the biological laws of the culture itself, and the processes occurring during its cultivation. Mitlider has one drawback (this is my opinion) when using mineral fertilizers, the taste of the fruit is unnatural. To fix it - I instead mineral dressings I use humus, ash, manure, herbal infusion, etc. (I am a supporter of organic fertilizers).

I am for a clean ecological product.

But do not take mineral fertilizer as a poison. Just stick to the dose. It is better to underfeed a plant than to overfeed it.

For which I am especially grateful to J. Mitlider - this is for the development of narrow beds. Although Mitlider does not recommend putting the box on narrow beds, I still knocked together the boxes. Nature itself told me this. In the spring, many suburban areas are flooded, the water does not have time to drain, there is water in the aisles. We have the same problem in late August and early September - it rains day and night. Yes, and in the middle of summer it can rain for 2-3 days, or it can flood the entire garden in half an hour.

Therefore, raising the beds 15-25 cm above the track- solves this problem. Ridge width 60 - 100 cm, length is arbitrary. The interval between the beds is 60 - 80 cm. It only seems that the earth in the aisles walks uselessly. It is the passages that work, and how!

The vegetable container is high bed, the walls of which are made of bricks, logs, timber, boards, stone, slate... The beds stretch from north to south. The passages between them can be mulched with sand, sawdust, roofing felt, etc. I preferred the lawn, which I cut with a trimmer once a month. Some passages I covered with sawdust. The beauty of the garden leaves no one indifferent. There are no weeds, the site is clean and beautiful.

Box - the box is filled with organic matter. Plant residues (grass, straw, foliage) are put down, then compost or manure, or we spill with infusions of herbs and the like; the earth from the passages is placed in the upper layer. Thus the box is filled.

Each bed is 2 rows of vegetables, planted along the edges in a checkerboard pattern between vegetables. In this geometry, a huge reserve of productivity is hidden, it has long been noticed: the outermost plant develops almost twice as well as those in the middle - they have much more light and space for growth. And here - all the plants are extreme. A wide aisle is also needed in order to give them light and space. A small area of ​​organic matter yields more than a large area of ​​soil. Anyone who has worked at least one season on narrow ridges is convinced of the enormous possibilities of this method and simply cannot return to traditional technology. Working on the ridges, a person experiences joy not only from a good harvest, but also from the very process of growing vegetables.

The beauty of the garden, which looks more like a park, leaves no one indifferent. There are no weeds, the site is clean and beautiful.

In two rows in a checkerboard pattern I plant cabbages, eggplants, peppers, tomatoes, etc.
Four or three rows I plant onions, garlic, beets, lettuces, radishes, carrots, etc.

Flaws

Requires material costs in the first year for the construction of the beds. This tiny flaw makes the container inaccessible to most summer residents.

Such a bed has been working for several years, you can say forever(replenish it with waste, plant residues, foliage, etc.).

• After digging, sow green manure.
• When planting, do not add compost or rotted manure into the hole. This bed itself is compost.
• The humus is not washed out, as the bed is fenced.
• According to many agronomists, 60 - 80% of the plant receives nutrition from the air, so large passages play significant role in the biological process of the plant. Culture receives good illumination and sufficient air flow.

About 30% of the plant receives food from the ground. Naturally, the consumption of organic and mineral fertilizers is spent on a narrow bed 2 times less, relatively standard bed. At the same time, you will get a much higher yield from a narrow bed. I have tested this for several years and it shows in my photographs.
Contains a large amount of nutrients, a supply of moisture.

Benefits of narrow beds

• Convenient watering.
• No stagnant water.
• Does not require hilling.
• Does not require weeding - if the bed is mulched.
• Does not require digging, only loosening by 7 - 10 cm.
• You can plant early, as the beds in the spring warm up faster than usual.
• Narrow beds are easy to rotate. Where onions were planted last year, this year you can plant carrots or cabbage.
• Yields are increased by 100% or more.
• Tubers, root crops are clean without visible signs of disease.
• Beautiful and easy to work with.
• Takes up minimal space, does not create dirt and mess.

It is very convenient to make shelter with plastic arcs, sold in seed shops. We put 2 pegs on both sides of the beds and put an arc on them. The distance between the arcs is about a meter. Depending on the length of the beds you install right amount arcs. Covering material or foil can be used over the arches until the danger of frost has passed.

This system of narrow beds allows me to get consistently high yields., independent of the vagaries of the weather and the conditions of the site itself.

Really great? And this is even if we take into account that Igor lives in the Khabarovsk Territory, in Komsomolsk-on-Amur!
And they tell us the zone of risky farming, the zone of risky farming :))

Creation of a bed-box.

At the request of many of my friends, I will tell you how I make a garden bed. A vegetable container is a high bed, the walls of which are made of bricks, logs, timber, boards, stone, slate. The beds stretch from north to south.

In the photo you will see a bed made of logs. The logs remained after the dismantling of the houses, they were not taken into construction, since the core had rotted, but it will do for the garden.

We prepare a flat area.

We firmly lay the logs in the ground, you can even deepen it a little. Width from 80 - 120 cm, it all depends on climatic conditions the hotter, the wider the bed.

The length is arbitrary.

We knock the logs together with nails or screws.

I put cardboard at the bottom so that a perennial weed does not develop ...

... as well as pests of Khrushchev, wireworm, etc.

We lay down coarse plant residues of corn, sunflower, etc.

Yes, it needs to be painted or whitewashed. Now selling paint water based for facades. This is so that the sun does not heat the earth and insects will gnaw less, and most importantly, the beauty of the garden.

Then I lay the plant residues of other crops - carrots, cabbage, potato, tomato tops, etc. Whether they are diseased or not. Effective microorganisms will process all sores. Do not plant perennial weed. I don't use Baikal and the like.

Igor Lyadov uses 4 types of dressing tinctures

1. I believe that every farmer can independently prepare microbial preparations for himself, almost as diverse in composition as commercially available EM crops, but from their own, local, climate and soil-adapted microbes, which will be environmentally more intelligent and practical.

We offer practical, simple and cheap way restore soil fertility and increase plant productivity.

Given that the main components of EO are yeast and lactic acid bacteria, which are already enough in the soil and around us, we suggest using ordinary sugar-yeast brew as a starter for organic infusions.

The infusion is being prepared. In a 200-liter container (barrel) is placed:

Shovel of wood or herbal ash;
- half a bucket of manure or litter;
- a bucket of rotten straw or leaf litter;
- a shovel of humus, compost or just garden soil;
- sand shovel;
- a liter of whey or curdled milk;
- 3 liters of mash!

Brazhka is prepared like this:

for 3 liters of non-chlorinated water, 5 tbsp. spoons of sugar and a pinch of yeast. It ferments for 2-3 days, then it is added to the common tank. Before use, you need to store the mash in the refrigerator - it is valuable until it sour.

In the general tank, the whole bodyaga is infused for a week. Sometimes it needs to be stirred. When used, the infusion is diluted at least twice. (Yu.I. Slashchinin)

2. In a 200 liter barrel I put weed grass 2/3 of the barrel.(you can add ash 2 shovels). I fill it with water, cover with a film on top. Infused for two weeks. When using infusion, I dilute 1 to 10.

3. In a 200 liter barrel I put fresh manure, 1/3 of the barrel. I fill it with water. Infused for two weeks. When using infusion, I dilute 1 to 10.

4. In a 200 liter barrel I put chicken manure, 1/3 of the barrel. I fill it with water. Infused for two weeks. When using infusion, I dilute 1 to 20.

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Back in the nineties of the last century, the most progressive gardeners began to arrange their beds according to the principle of Jacob Mittlider, an American farming expert. The method of “narrow beds” turned all gardening traditions literally upside down: still, if it involves reducing the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ridges themselves, and increasing the passages between them, on the contrary. How can we expect an increase in yields? It turns out that it is very possible!

Now, in the era of popularity among summer residents organic farming, few people use the Mittlider technique in its pure form. But narrow beds to this day “work” in most bio-gardens for the benefit of the crop.

Why are narrow ridges so good compared to traditional ones? Let's try to understand the principles, features and advantages of narrow beds.

Narrow beds are considered to be beds with a width of 30 to 90 centimeters of arbitrary length with obligatory wide passages between them. The recommended width of the passage is 60-100 centimeters. At first glance, such a garden arrangement seems wasteful. usable area, but actually passes also have their own function. And the experience of a huge number of summer residents convinces that a decrease in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bridges on the size of the crop has a positive effect. This method takes not quantity, but quality!

General principles of functioning of a narrow bed

Why do vegetable and other crops grow and bear fruit better in a narrow garden? The fact is that, according to scientists, the soil provides food for plants only by 40%, and they get everything else from the air. Suddenly? But this is a fact. Pay attention to the outermost row of onions, carrots, radishes or parsley in your beds. There are always the largest and healthy plants! Think about the terrible soils that grow city grass and trees that no one has ever fed. What do they survive on?

Wide passages between narrow beds are designed to provide each plant with a sufficient amount of air (primarily carbon dioxide) necessary for growth and development. There is no middle ground on a narrow bed, since crops are planted in one row or, in extreme cases, in two rows in a checkerboard pattern. That is, each row will be “extreme” and will receive a maximum of light and air. But do not forget that the passages must be either mulched or planted. lawn grass or . A growing cover or decaying organic matter in the aisles releases a large amount of carbon dioxide, from which the crops in the beds grow by leaps and bounds.

Organic narrow beds. That is, you will need boxes made of boards, slate or other material and plant waste of various “calibers”, ranging from cardboard and paper to grass and foliage.

It is customary to place narrow beds from north to south on a flat horizontal surface of the site (so that water does not drain). In the future, you can do two things:

Method 1. First, remove the sod, if any, and dig up the ground, adding humus, manure, compost and others to the ridge organic fertilizers. Enclose the bed with a box 25 centimeters high, and spread the turf between the rows. No more digging required. The fertility of the ridges is maintained by mulching and/or growing green manure.

Method 2. Those who do not want to dig even once do otherwise. First, a box is knocked down from boards, logs or any other materials and placed on the ground. A layer of thick cardboard is laid at the bottom as an obstacle to perennial weeds and covered with sand. The second layer can be small branches, sunflower stalks, corn, straw, rotten apples, or kitchen waste. Then tops, foliage or mowed grass are laid. And finally, everything is sprinkled on top with a layer of earth or humus. To speed up the work of microorganisms, it would be better to shed the bed with a solution of EM preparations, manure or.


In whatever way we created the garden bed, it is imperative to take care of wide aisles. Most nice solution- plant the passages with lawn grass, which in the future will be mowed for mulch. But it is not forbidden to simply cover the aisles with sawdust or mulch with weeds.

When the beds and passages are ready, you can safely exhale: now they will constantly serve faithfully in one place for several years.

Some of the benefits of organic narrow beds resonate with “ warm beds”, which is not surprising:

• the bed is done once, but serves for many years;
• no need to dig every year;
• the number of weeds and pests is sharply reduced;
• weeds are not pulled out by the roots, but are cut with a flat cutter, which is much faster and easier;
• seeds and seedlings can be planted earlier, the earth in such beds warms up faster;
• rains do not wash away the bed, due to the box, it retains moisture inside;
• it is convenient to observe crop rotation.

But the narrow beds also have their own unique advantages:

• plants in a narrow bed are equally well lit and receive unlimited access to air;
• you don’t need to get up on narrow beds to get to a hard-to-reach vegetable from the “middle”, which means there will be no damage to the micro-roots that are located in the surface layer of the soil;
• it is more convenient to process a narrow bed, it is more convenient to harvest from it - everything is in plain sight;
• landings on a narrow bed are not thickened (one or two rows), so each plant is better ventilated, which reduces the incidence;
• on a narrow bed it is easier to install arcs or other devices for temporary film shelter;
• with the “narrow ridges - wide aisles” system, you can forget about clods of dirt from the garden: grass or mulch in the aisles will ensure cleanliness and beauty.

If you are not afraid to experiment on your site and are open to everything new or well-forgotten old, try out organic narrow beds next summer season. We are sure you will appreciate their convenience and productivity.

We wish you success and great harvests!

Growing vegetables in narrow beds

O.A. Telepov, a potato grower, shares his experience.

In July of this year, a visiting, “field” seminar of the Omsk club of potato growers took place at my site.

After inspecting the site and having a long conversation about my technologies and experiences, one of the authoritative members of the club asks the question: “Since you are using the Mittlider system for dividing the garden into narrow beds, then why do you ignore the recommendations to make wide aisles?”

I show everyone to my garden: “Look, the plants do not interfere with each other ...” It turns out - as if brushed aside ...

I was not too lazy to answer, everyone was just already tired - three hours in the sun! This is not the first time such a question has been asked, and certainly not the last.

Why did the aisles make the width equal to the width of the beds - 50 cm, and not more? Yes, just out of greed. Let's count. Harvest winter garlic this year is good - 3.2 kg per square meter of beds. This fact was easy to establish: the weight of all the heads of garlic was divided by the area of ​​​​the garden. Most often they think so. But there is trickery in this. Why do we not take into account the area of ​​the tracks when we calculate the yield?

3.2 kg per square meter of beds does not mean at all that the harvest per hundred square meters is 320 kg! My weaving is 100 meters of a bed (50 cm wide) plus 100 meters of a track (the same width). It really turns out that the yield from a given hundred square meters is the yield from 50 square meters (100 meters multiplied by 0.5 meters) of the ridge - 160 kg. In one domestic cartoon, the hero exclaims: “But in parrots, I’m much longer!” So I can, without lying at all, say that this year my garlic harvest amounted to 320 kg per hundred square meters of the ridge. But my "accounting" records after the sale of garlic on the market say something completely different - 160 kg were sold. The yield turned out to be "in monkeys"!

Now let's take a system of narrow ridges with wide, meter-long, row-spacings. There are no longer 50, but 33 on a hundred square meters of the plot square meters ridges, which means that from a hundred we get only 106 kg of the same garlic. The harvest is already “in baby elephants”, with the same boa constrictor. Facts are stubborn things.

Adherents of narrow ridges with wide aisles claim that wide aisles are more comfortable to walk on. I completely agree with this! Moreover, it would be nice to have passages of 2.5 meters. Then it would be possible to ride on them on a walk-behind tractor or a car. I'm not being ironic at all. It would be really convenient: I drove up with a trailer to the place, unloaded the organic matter; straight from the garden, he put the crop into the trailer ... But, unfortunately, one has to be guided not only by convenience. There is an old anecdote about the "new Russian", which was bought by "Zaporozhets". Friends are surprised: “Why do you need Zaporozhets? You have a chic jeep. He calmly replies that, they say, it is inconvenient to drive a jeep along the corridors of his new house.

Our limited areas in most cases require the use of every piece of land. Everything that has been said above is about the economy, so to speak. But it is important to consider other factors, the main of which is the place under the sun for each plant. One of the Omsk newspapers literally said the following about narrow paths in my area: “In principle, this is nonsense. Many experts argue that in this case there is not enough sunlight for photosynthesis. But my plants do not crowd each other, but just close the tops in the phase of their maximum development, despite the opinion of many experts.

It turns out that the experts are wrong? In no case. But you can cheat and get around some problems. The first thing to do is to place the beds from north to south. So the illumination of all crops will become much better. When thinking over the placement of crops for the next year, I try to take into account not only the requirement of crop rotation (bed rotation), but also the size of the vegetative mass of plants located on neighboring beds.

For example, if you place narrow beds with zucchini and cabbage next to each other, then they will clearly obscure each other. I have carrots growing next to cabbage. The tops of carrots grow mainly upwards, and therefore most of the area of ​​​​the path goes to cabbage, and carrots do not suffer either. There are many such combinations if you look closely at the plants.

Potatoes do not fit into this principle. If you plant it not in a continuous array, but place it on the beds mixed with other crops, then you need to take into account that its stems lie down under their own weight. And if we take into account that in some varieties these stems reach 1.5 meters in length, it turns out that they will block not only my narrow paths, but also neighboring beds.

But we are solving this issue. In reality, everything happens like this. Beds with potatoes alternate with family onions or winter garlic. At the beginning of summer, onions and garlic grow intensively, and potatoes are only gaining strength. In early August, it becomes crowded with potatoes. But at this time, onions and garlic are already ripening, we remove them. And the potato rows are placed after two meters. They have more than enough space. Thus, plants are not deprived of light, and important condition done - there is no empty land on which the sun's rays fall.

In August, on my site with a wheelbarrow, you can only drive along the main paths located across the ridges, they are wide - 1-1.2 meters. It is possible to walk along the aisles between the beds, but it is better to do it carefully. But in August there is no need for frequent walks between the ridges. There are almost no weeds, loosening and watering are not needed.
I do not urge everyone to do in my opinion, to each his own. My principle of laying out a garden is one of the options, and you choose.

Oleg Telepov, gardener, member of the Omsk club of potato growers

Wooden garden and greenhouse - two in one

An interesting idea for a greenhouse on a wooden bed, but it seems to me that it would be more convenient to make the opening to the back, and not to the side. The frame is already too high and the probability of damage to it by the wind increases significantly.

The idea of ​​beds with sides

An interesting idea of ​​​​a bed with horizontal sides of the platform, on which, for example, you can put some kind of dish, watering can, etc. A convenient utilitarian device that will help in the household.

The idea of ​​​​a raised U-shaped bed

Functional and handy idea beds for growing herbs or vegetables. The format allows you to easily reach any part of the ridge. The central part allows you to serve the entire perimeter in one pass.

At all, main advantages of narrow beds detailed in the following infographic. Let's study them and take note.

U-shaped idea wooden garden with mesh fence

If there are animals on your site that can eat your plantings. for example, goats or rabbits, then a net will help protect the bed. By the way, even chickens often "hooligans" in the garden, so protection in this case important for crop conservation.

How to make removable fences in the garden

The next idea continues the development of thought with the protection of the beds from the intrusion of pets. An example of creating a removable mesh fence.

Wooden garden with trellis

Growing cucumbers may require a trellis over which the plants can climb. By adding a vertical plane to the bed, you will ensure the convenience of harvesting the future crop. Curly flowers can be planted in a similar way.

Quick bed of hollow blocks

Sometimes a quick construction of a flower bed may be required, in which case this idea will be most relevant. Using the blocks, you can literally create a beautiful garden bed for your flower garden in just half an hour.

Arch made of reinforcing mesh and wooden trays

An interesting idea for creating a pergola arch from a thin reinforcing mesh. The design is based on wooden trays into which the earth is poured. In such a bed you can grow climbing plants such as cucumbers, grapes, or flowers.

Bed of ceramic tubes

The original bed of ceramic tubes covered with earth. Such a bed can be broken even on a paved area, for one season, and then disbanded if circumstances so require.

The idea of ​​\u200b\u200bcreating a wooden garden bed - a greenhouse

This idea is good because your wooden frame will have cells for mounting arcs, on which you can throw agrofibre at night or during frosts.

Traditional wooden beds

If you make small beds, then it will be easier to control the growth and development of crops.

Decorative raised beds on legs

You can also protect your plantings from rabbits and chickens by raising the beds on legs, although, of course, this is more labor-intensive. Rather, these containers can be used to plant flowers in them, in the background of your composition.

Another one nice idea the beds are not like everyone else - all the same U-shaped, universal and practical.

Bed with cells

Some spiral flower bed ideas

In addition to flowers, in such flower beds you can grow decorative vegetables, as well as greens for both kitchen and beauty.

Square beds pedestals with mesh

For small ornamental gardens the idea of ​​square boxes of beds with nets for vertical growth of plants will come in handy.

Garden beds with an arch for climbing plants

If your plans include growing grapes, then such beds will come in handy, using trays and thin fittings you can create a twined green arch in several seasons.

Vine garden ideas

Wicker beds will be a wonderful decoration for your garden or flower garden. The photo shows the sequence of applying layers of organic matter to provide the bed with nutrients.

Bed with moisture-retaining wall

The original idea of ​​​​a garden bed with a wall that retains moisture. The photo shows a base made of coconut fiber.

Composition of raised beds

Make an original geometric composition on your site using wooden beds.

Natural bed of briquetted grass

This idea is good because the plants in such a bed will also receive minerals from the grass, which will gradually give nutrients to the soil.

Beautiful bed of facing stone

Of course, such a bed will cost a decent amount, but definitely not like everyone else! In principle, the idea is rather good for a flower bed.

Stylish wooden garden bed

The idea of ​​a garden bed from a bar impressed me so much that I decided to inspire my husband to create the same in the next holiday season. A very original idea!

Beds made of galvanized metal

Modern and durable designs of beds made of galvanized metal.

Mini beds of wine boxes

As small beds, you can use a variety of boxes from under some goods, in the photo - wine boxes.

Beds from wooden frame and metal

Such a bed will last much longer than a simple wooden one, since the walls of the structure are made of metal. If you make a bed so that the soil does not touch the tree, then it will last a dozen years.

Prefabricated bed of boards

The magic of prefabricated beds of this type is that you can pre-prepare according to the board template, and then, on the spot, simply assemble in a matter of minutes. Additionally, the photo shows the possibility of creating an automatic irrigation system.

advanced F-shape beds

Remember the U-shaped beds at the beginning of this compilation? So, the next idea is based on a similar F-shaped principle, where another small garden bed is additionally provided in the center of the structure.

Bed tray from halves of barrels

To be honest, it’s not entirely clear why cut good plastic barrels and use them as trays? I would put these containers under water for irrigation. But the owner is a gentleman ... The idea is dubious, it seems to me ...

metal beds

But this idea seems to me very, very promising, as I already said, galvanized metal can last a long time. In principle, it is possible to sheathe any wooden garden from the inside sheet metal thus significantly increasing its service life.

Bed with stands

The original idea of ​​​​a wooden garden bed with stands for tubs, watering cans or garden tools.

The idea of ​​​​painting wooden beds

Painting your garden beds bright colors you will not only add positive to your garden, but also bring originality to everyday life.

The idea of ​​\u200b\u200bthe garden - a greenhouse of four boards

Pay attention to the white matter that is added to the peat and humus in the garden. This is agroperlite - a material that can absorb up to 400% moisture, which means that it can provide the bed with water, gradually giving it to the roots of plants. Plus, perlite contributes to the aeration of the beds, prevents the soil from caking and the formation of crusts on its surface.