Mother bush of strawberries. How strawberries propagate in their summer cottage. What strawberry whiskers to take for breeding

Often, novice gardeners cannot decide how to increase strawberry patch. Simply put - how to quickly breed more bushes. Depending on the variety, there are three such methods - sowing seeds, division, separation of stepchildren. Most varieties put out enough shoots to be selected for seedlings, and this is the fastest way.

Propagation of strawberries with a mustache guarantees the preservation of the variety.

Since the cultivation of strawberries through stepchildren is the most commonly used procedure among gardeners, the main advantages of this method can be distinguished:

  • no need to sow seeds;
  • high percentage of survival;
  • 100% preservation of varietal qualities;
  • there is no need to injure the mother bush;
  • the possibility of spring and autumn disembarkation.

Often there is confusion when sowing seeds , as a result of which the properties of a particular species are lost - the seeds are mixed, and an incomprehensible variety is obtained. In addition, stepchildren can be selected both in spring and summer - for autumn planting, and the seeds are suitable only for spring planting.

Another fact speaks in favor of the stepson planting - almost one hundred percent adaptation of seedlings. If you take the seed method or the division method, surprises are possible there. If a mistake is made when diving shoots that the plant cannot adapt to the maximum, it will die. Incorrect division of the bush during bush division - injured seedlings will die .

Strawberry whiskers grow quickly and getting new plants from them is quite simple.

Is it possible to propagate strawberries with a mustache?

An important fact related to the advantages of the stepson method is that it suits almost all varieties.

At that time, a sufficiently large number of varieties cannot be propagated by means of seed sowing or bush division, so most gardeners - professionals and amateurs -.

When to Trim Mustaches on Strawberries

The optimal time for selecting branches is summer. It is necessary to ensure that the rooting of the daughter horns occurs from the beginning of June to the end of July.

From the strawberry bushes, we cut off all the mustaches that are not used for reproduction.

This is necessary so that the roots on the mustache are as strong as possible and ready to be firmly adapted to the new place. As a rule, seedlings that have been moved to a permanent place at this time have time to adapt as much as possible, strengthen the root system, put up new shoots and leaves. Old leaves will dry out and fall off during this time. In addition, a strong plant can.

Some types of strawberries should be propagated at the end of August. This fact may be related to the timing of fruiting culture. These species include late types of strawberries, the last harvest of which falls on the middle or end of July. Also, in this way, remontants breed. These crops are more hardy, they are characterized by accelerated vegetation in relation to simple strawberries.

spring breeding

Allowed spring planting. To do this, choose powerful mother plants in the fall, leave stepchildren on them.

This outlet will grow up until autumn, and will move to a new place after wintering.

Prepare carefully for the winter - cover,. At the end of March, you can separate the mustache from the mother bush and plant it in a prepared place. At the same time, one should not wait in the first year of the harvest, since the first flower stalks must be cut off. This measure is carried out so that the plant can:

  • take root firmly;
  • get stronger;
  • develop the root system;
  • form a new leafy cap;
  • start new shoots.

If the peduncles are left in place, the mother bush will spend energy on the formation of flowers, the development of fruits, while the development and strengthening of the rhizome, stems, and leaves will suffer. During spring planting, you should also be prepared for late frosts, so it is better to cover new gardens with agrofibre.

What whiskers are taken from strawberries for breeding

The first year we cut off all the mustaches and note the most prolific bushes.

In addition, in this way you can find out which plant is capable of producing a high yield, large berries, a large number of mustaches. It is their such queen cells that seedlings are selected. You can note the best examples, sticking pegs next to them.

If seedlings are bought in a store or on the market, it is not recommended to take immediately a large number of, since it is very difficult to determine a specific variety by eye. Many gardeners after the purchase and the first planting of seedlings in the ground give the opportunity to grow to all branches, while waiting for fruiting.

However, this is the most common mistake. The fact is that a weak seedling tries to pull all the functions at once - throw out branches, give flower stalks, set fruits, strengthen the rhizome, leaves, stems. As a result, the results are rather average - a frail plant, sparse foliage, few whiskers, small fruits.

Trimming the first mustache

To obtain a result and determine stronger queen cells, it is recommended that the first year be given the opportunity to throw strength on the fruit set, and the first mustache should be cut off.

Naturally, the breeding season will have to be postponed for a year, but it will be possible to accurately identify strong specimens. In the second year, no more than four stepchildren are left, flower stalks are also eliminated in order to direct all efforts to the development of a healthy mother bush.

In the second year, on the marked bushes, we cut off all the flower stalks.

How to plant seedlings is the right of a particular gardener. Generally, two types are used - garden pots, in open ground.

If a decision is made to use the "pot" method, for this it is necessary to remove the flower stalks on the mother unit to save power on the formation of rosettes. Three strong mustaches are left, the rest are removed.

Which mustache to choose?

It should be noted that the horns of the second and third order will be weaker than those that are closer to the bush itself. In this regard, it is necessary to cut off the branch so that a residue of two centimeters long remains.

In the garden with strawberries, we look after prolific healthy bushes and leave 2–3 air shoots on them for reproduction.

The container is filled with fertilized soil. Organics are suitable for fertilizers - peat, compost, sawdust. The mustache root is planted in a pot, sprinkled soil mixture, while it does not break away from the parent unit. You need to water every day.

Algorithm


Norwegian manner

For enhanced adaptation, you can make a bed in the Norwegian manner.

Then seedlings will not be affected weather- rain, hail, wind, first or last frost. To do this, you need to fence the landings with wide boards, on which to stretch the film.

Inside it is necessary to create favorable conditions - to moisten and loosen the soil as much as possible . Under such conditions, the roots will cling tightly to the ground, the stems and leaves will begin to grow vigorously.

The nuances of caring for a strawberry mustache

For speedy adaptation, it is necessary to water the bed well, constantly loosen the upper soil layer - it is impossible to provoke the formation of an earthen crust.

Mustache can be relocated to new garden when they have large outlets.

  • Remove weeds promptly - they take the majority nutrients at seedlings. You can mulch the bed. For these purposes, wheat or rye straw is used, sawdust, pine needles.
  • Each type of mulch involves certain reservations, so what exactly to use is up to each gardener to decide.. Sawdust and straw can quickly settle, provoking a barrier to air access, due to which the roots begin to rot. The result is the death of plantings. Most gardeners use pine needles as mulch.
  • In addition, it should be taken into account that excessively loose and moist soil can significantly settle , which leads to the exposure of the roots and legs involved in the formation of roots. For this reason, bushes should be systematically hilled. At the same time, you need to monitor the core - you can’t spud it.

"potted" rooting

If "potted" rooting was used, you need to know when to distribute the finished seedlings in open ground. This is done from the end of July to the second half of September.

Usually, the appearance of roots is expected fourteen days after the shoots have dug in. July seedlings will begin to bear fruit in a timely manner - at the same time as adult strawberries. September new gardens are able to give only a third of the harvest, compared to July seedlings. The numbers will be the same next year.

Video about rooting mustaches in pots

Many novice strawberry gardeners are concerned about why mustaches are needed for garden strawberries and whether they need to be cut, when and how to do it correctly. This is a really important topic that needs to be dealt with.

The role of the mustache in strawberries

They grow in different directions, move quickly. These shoots are very important for plant propagation. After all, strawberries reproduce in three ways: by seeds, by dividing the bush and by mustaches. The first two methods are rarely used by amateur summer residents; they are used mainly in breeding work. But all amateur gardeners propagate it with a mustache. This method is not too complicated and, subject to all the rules of agricultural technology, provides one hundred percent return.

Now let's figure out why the mustache is removed from garden strawberries. Reproduction by reproduction, but strawberries are primarily grown for their fruit. A plant cannot work on two fronts. It either puts on a strong mustache, or expends energy on laying fruit buds, from which berries eventually appear. For a good harvest sweet strawberry and it is necessary to trim the mustache in a timely and correct manner.

Mustache cutting technology

The first and few mustaches of strawberries appear in spring, before flowering. But in early autumn, after the fruiting period garden strawberry begins to let out a mustache abundantly. Then they need to be cut. The procedure is carried out early in the morning or late in the evening in dry, calm weather. In order not to damage the bush, the mustache is cut with sharp scissors or a small pruner. The processes are removed as close as possible to the center of the outlet. At this time, damaged and infected leaves are also cut off. Usually, the mustache trimming process has to be repeated several times per season.

How to trim a mustache from a strawberry (video)

Reproduction of strawberries with a mustache

Bushes up to two years old are suitable for seedlings (counting from the next year after planting). Use the first mustache from healthy and productive bushes that have preserved best qualities varieties. A year before the intended receipt of seedlings, these bushes are marked. Usually, two best shoots are selected from one bush for reproduction. Flowers appearing on selected mother bushes are cut off. This is usually done in June. The technology for obtaining seedlings is as follows:

  • the selected processes are placed in shallow grooves and fixed;
  • the rest of the mustache is trimmed;
  • after some time, rosettes appear on the selected processes, which take root, after which they cut off the ends of the mustache, leaving a maximum of two of the strongest rosettes on them;
  • seedlings need to be watered, loosened, weeded and slightly hilled;
  • a week before transplantation (at the end of summer), the mustache is separated from the mother bush.

If any of the young plants wither after that, then it should be shaded and watered, then it switches to its own nutrition.

Transplanting seedlings and caring for them

Strawberry beds should be about a meter wide, and row spacing should be twice as narrow. Planting seedlings in a permanent place is carried out at the end of August, when other crops have already been collected. Strawberries are transplanted in their place. It should be taken into account that the best predecessors for strawberries are onions, garlic, radishes, carrots, peas, beans, dill, and the worst are cucumbers, potatoes, tomatoes.

The transplant is done like this:

  • the soil is slightly loosened;
  • bushes are planted along the beds in tiers (in two rows) at a distance of up to 35 cm from each other on the same bed, and the interval to neighboring beds is kept at half a meter;
  • in a dug hole, you need to plant a bush along with a clod of earth so that the plant “does not notice” the transplant;
  • the ground around the bush is compacted, while it is important that its core is flush with the ground;
  • the bed is watered abundantly.

Seedling care is as follows:

  1. A week after planting, plants are fed with highly diluted (1 to 10) chicken manure based on the norm of a bucket of solution per bed of 5 square meters. meters. This solution is carefully poured between plants into well-moistened soil.
  2. So that the earth is not taken with a crust and retains moisture longer, it is mulched with manure and peat.
  3. Until late autumn, seedlings are watered every 3-4 days, weeded and loosened.
  4. For the winter, plantings are sprinkled with pine needles. This is a good protective bedding, insulating and breathable.

The best varieties of beardless strawberries

Gardeners are very popular beardless varieties of strawberries, which are propagated in other ways. There are a lot of them out. This remontant varieties fruiting for several months.

Such strawberries are grown compactly, which saves space. The disadvantage of these varieties is their low drought resistance, increased demands for watering.

Brief characteristics of some varieties of beardless strawberries are offered in the table.

Variety nameDescription of the bushCharacteristics of fruits and varieties
"Yoke"Semi spreading, medium sizeBerry weighing up to 23 g, conical, sweet and sour, sugar - 9% vitamin C - 65 mg%, ripens in June. Harvest - 163 centners per 1 ha, universal variety
"Bolero"bush compactBerries up to 35 mm in size, sweet, elongated. Self-pollinating variety, fruiting - May-November
Merlan F1bush compactBerries weighing up to 20 g, conical, sweet
"Lyubasha"Semi-spreading, self-fertileBerries weighing up to 23 g, sweet: sugar - 12%, vitamin C - 82 mg%. The variety is universal, early, yield - 104 centners per 1 ha
"Selva"Semi-spreading, powerfulBerries are sweet and sour, weighing up to 75 g, fruiting from May to October
"Vima Rina"PowerfulThe berries are conical, weighing 75 g, sugar in them is 8.3%. Fruiting from the second half of June to October, harvest - up to 90 centners per 1 ha
"Queen Elizabeth"medium sizeSweet and sour berries, weighing up to 100 g, special requirements for watering, frost-resistant variety, yield - up to 3 kg per bush
"Baron Solemacher"Semi-spreading, 25-30 cm tallBerries weighing 4 g, sweet, fragrant, up to 0.5 kg of strawberries are harvested from a bush
"Rügen"Semi-spreading, decorative, medium heightBerries weighing up to 5 g, sweet and sour, fragrant, on a bush ripens up to 1 thousand berries per season (June-September)
"Holiday"Compact, decorative, up to 30 cm highBerries are yellow, ovoid, weighing 10-12 g
"Alexandria"Height up to 20 cmThe berries are sweet, weigh 8 g, from May to October up to 400 g of strawberries are harvested from the bush
"Ali Baba"Height up to 15 cmBerries are sweet and sour. Weigh 5 g, ripen in June, 0.5 kg of strawberries are harvested from the bush
"Renaissance"medium sizeThe berries are ovoid, weighing up to 8 g. Unpretentious, with high frost resistance and resistance to diseases and pests, the variety loves frequent watering and the sun
"Cinderella"Medium sizeThe berries are sweet and sour, weigh 20-25 g. The variety is high-yielding, with high frost resistance and disease resistance.

The strawberry varieties presented are only a small part of the whole variety of varieties bred by breeders around the world. They differ in fruit taste, yield, resistance to various adverse factors, the complexity of caring for them, and other parameters. Each region has preferred varieties that best adapt to the local climate. Their choice is very extensive, and each gardener will be able to choose the most suitable variety of strawberries for his site and, taking into account his taste preferences.

How to propagate strawberries with a mustache (video)

Planting site for strawberries

To grow good bushes and receive from them good harvest, as well as offspring, it is necessary to initially plant them correctly. Therefore, we will dwell a little on how to choose a landing site. Good drainage is required. It is necessary to provide protection from cold winter winds. The most important thing is that the landing site does not form a hollow in which cold air will stagnate. A place that has a slope on south side, so the landings will warm up faster.

Soil for growing garden strawberries

A little later, we will get to when to cut off the whiskers of strawberries, while we need to decide on the conditions in which the plants will grow well, bear fruit and produce viable shoots. Homemade strawberries grow well and bear fruit on black soil, so if your soil is too light, then you need to fertilize it with high quality. Most the best composition for strawberries, it is light loam, which allows for a normal air supply to the root system and retains moisture in sufficient quantities. It is very important that the water does not stand close to the surface. That is, if the site is located in lowlands, then it is important to make a high bed and provide drainage.

strawberry seedling

Wherever you purchase seedlings, the first step is to treat them from nematodes and mites. Heat treatment is very suitable for this. Even when you personally have to cut the mustache of strawberries, before transplanting to a new garden bed, it is very advisable to place them for 3 minutes in a bathtub where water is heated to +35 degrees. Then they are transferred for 15 minutes to a bowl in which the water is heated to 48 degrees. After such therapy for an hour, the plants are placed in cool water, +20 degrees. You can disinfect new plants with the following solution. To do this, in 10 liters of water you need to dilute three tablespoons table salt and one teaspoon blue vitriol. Soak the sockets in the solution for 10-15 minutes.

strawberry care

It depends on the goals pursued by the summer resident. That is why it is difficult to unequivocally answer when to trim the mustache of strawberries. In a fruitful plantation, you need in early spring, in dry weather, remove all old, dried leaves. In the summer, if your goal is only berries, you need to remove all developing mustaches, and there will be many of them. Until the berries ripen, the soil is treated 3-4 times. At the same time, the loosening depth is 3-5 cm. During the formation of berries, it is very useful to mulch the soil with straw and other materials.

After harvesting, it is necessary to carry out loosening again. The last time (before the onset of autumn), the soil must be loosened again and at the same time the plants should be spudded. It is very useful after harvesting to completely mow the green part. In this case, care must be taken not to damage the core. The growth and development of plants for the next year depends on this. The leaves are removed, and the earth is loosened with choppers. The most important thing is to do this procedure in the summer. Literally in two weeks the bed will turn green again. If you cut the plants just before the cold, they will not have time to grow and die.

When the mustache appears

Strawberries of any variety will definitely give a mustache. And not just once a summer. Today we will talk about when to trim the whiskers of strawberries. At the same time, it should be borne in mind that if seedlings are required for reproduction, then you should not remove the mustache, you need to give them the opportunity to give roots and grow a strong outlet. However, if you do not need seedlings, then be sure to remove them regularly, as otherwise you risk your crop.

Usually, in the spring, the plant releases a little mustache, so the summer resident can, at his discretion, decide whether to prune them now or wait for their mass appearance in order to prune everything at once. This most massive release of whiskers falls on the end of fruiting. However, it must be remembered that a bush burdened with many powerful shoots will not be able to produce the required number of berries, or they will be much smaller than they could be.

Choose a day and time for cropping

We continue to reveal the topic when it is necessary to trim the mustache of strawberries. To do this, you need to choose the right day and weather to get started. It is desirable that the day was dry and warm. If possible, it should be early morning or late evening. In this case, be sure to arm yourself with high-quality garden shears. You can not pull on the whiskers, as they are very strong. Pulling hard can damage the main strawberry bush.

Mustache as planting material

If we have more or less figured out how to cut the shoots from fruit-bearing bushes, then what kind of strawberry mustache is taken for propagation is still open. If you need planting material, then from the very beginning of the active growth of the bush in the spring you do not remove the mustache. In the period of their mass growth, it is necessary to conduct an “audit”. In order not to oppress the mother plants, 2-3 of the strongest rosettes should be selected from each bush and rooted. All others must be ruthlessly removed. It is best for growing strong plants that adopt all varietal qualities, the “children” of the first order are suitable, that is, those that are closest to the outlet on the mustache are the strongest. All the rest (second and third order) are categorically not recommended for seedlings.

Now it becomes a little clear what mustaches are taken from strawberries for breeding. After you have rooted them, you should give them time with support. mother plant strengthen your own root system. After the new rosette has 3 or more pairs of leaves, the plant is ready for separation. This is usually done either in the fall or the following spring.

Mustache planting in spring

Let's take a look at one of the most popular options when trimming strawberries for planting. To do this, a garden bed for summer season they do not process, that is, 2-3 strong mustaches are left on each plant, which take root and form young plants. This is how they leave for the winter, without separating from the mother plants. With the onset of early spring (as soon as the bed warms up enough and buds begin to appear on the bushes), they are planted. At the same time, after awakening, the mother plant will grow and give a good harvest, the strengthened seedlings will quickly take root in a new place and, most likely, will give the first berries.

Summer residents who have started their garden often ask when to trim strawberry mustaches in the summer. If you do not plan to leave plants for seedlings, then this can be done at any time, as soon as you notice new growing layers. Moreover, the earlier you performed this procedure, the less strength the plant will lose, which means it will give more berry. It is spring planting that is very convenient if you buy seedlings in the market. Early planting in the ground increases the chances that your whiskers will take root, winter safely and grow their own whiskers to grow the bed to the size that suits you.

Transplanting strawberries in the fall with a mustache

Autumn is the best auspicious time in terms of when to trim the whiskers of strawberries for breeding. It is this option that will provide you with a berry harvest next summer. It is important to separate the mother bushes from all the others that will produce berries. If you have enough time, then do not rush to take the mustache from the newly planted bushes. Wait for the first summer and watch while removing all whiskers. See which of them took root best and gave the largest berries. Mark them with a ribbon or simply transfer them to a separate bed, they will be your mother bushes for next summer.

Rule number 1: you can not take a mustache from fruit-bearing bushes

This is one of the most important rules, which gardeners forget about. Indeed, in addition to choosing when to trim the mustache of strawberries for breeding, it is also necessary to determine from which bushes they should be taken. The bush can give either a mustache or berries. If you are trying to get both, then the result will be minimal success. If a gardener takes seedlings from bushes that have only borne fruit, then as a result he receives inferior seedlings. Some of the nutrients have already been used up for the ripening of the berries, which means that the mustache will be much weaker than you would like.

In addition, there is another danger in making the bushes work on "two fronts". Since the life of plants is limited, the summer resident runs the risk of losing them ahead of time. Strawberries are quickly depleted, the bushes become small, the yield drops.

Why trim your mustache

We have probably already answered this question. Speaking about when it is better to trim the mustache of strawberries, it is necessary to remember once again that it all depends on what tasks the gardener faces. Strawberries give a lot of whiskers, on which the plant spends its strength. Therefore, in order to save them, it is necessary to carry out the removal of whiskers from early spring until late, with the exception of those intended for seedlings. The more mustaches on a bush, the more energy it spends on them, which means that less is left for berries. There is another reason. It is necessary to remove the mustache so that the bed does not thicken. Such plantings are much more difficult to care for, and the effectiveness of them will be much less.

Reproduction using mother bushes

We have already touched on this topic a little, let's now talk about when you can trim the mustache from strawberries to get a strong, strong seedlings, which adopted all the varietal qualities as much as possible. For these purposes, uterine bushes are used. It will take you the first summer to select the strongest and most prolific bushes and plant them separately, for this all the whiskers are removed from all the bushes and see which of them gave the best harvest. They now have their own mission - to give good seedlings. The next year, the uterine bushes are processed in a different way. All buds, flowers and ovaries are removed from them. But the mustache periodically look through. Of these, you need to leave the most powerful and strong, and cut off the trifle.

Now a few words about when to properly trim the whiskers of strawberries. When they are well rooted and give a powerful outlet. To do this, the mustache is recommended to be shortened. Only the first outlet, which is closer to the mother plant, is used. The rest are cut off. However, if you need to get a lot of seedlings very quickly, then you can use the second and third sockets. The bushes that grow from the first outlet will be much stronger and stronger, but after a while the rest will catch up with them.

Propagation of remontant strawberries

As you know, remontant strawberries are good because they bear fruit all summer. In this case, the first harvest is only 5% of the total for the season. However, if you need seedlings, then you should clarify in advance when to trim the mustache from remontant strawberries. The ovary of these varieties is also formed on the rosettes of the mustache, but in order to get strong seedlings, you need to sacrifice the harvest. It is permissible to collect only the very first berries, the rest of the ovary will have to be destroyed. The technique of using uterine bushes is justified, while it is necessary to leave no more than 5 mustaches on each of the plants. In this case, it is necessary to observe the landing pattern 80 * 40, otherwise it is necessary to reduce the number of mustaches by half. Mustaches can be separated from the mother plant in the fall, in the morning.

Summing up

Strawberries are my favorite garden plant most gardeners. Fragrant berry is great for summer desserts and winter jams. Its cultivation is not associated with great difficulties, in addition, it is very profitable to take varietal plants. You will need only 2-3 bushes that can be used as mother plants, and in a year you will have a small bed with the first harvest. Mustache reproduction is very fast and easy, does not require special knowledge and effort. The need to remove mustaches that are not needed will require much more effort from the gardener. And you will have to do this throughout the season.

Strawberries (garden strawberries) propagate very easily. The most common way to obtain planting material is to grow young plants from vegetative shoots - mustaches. Seedlings are also obtained by dividing the bush.

Reproduction of strawberries with a mustache

Mustaches are called shoots of strawberries, on which rosettes of leaves develop, and later roots appear. Fixing in the ground, they form a new young plant.

Biological characteristics of the mustache

Up to 5-7 outlets can form on one garland over the summer, in the southern regions 12-16. One bush gives 10-15 vegetative shoots with rosettes.

Whiskers begin to form when the light day is more than 12 hours and the temperature is above 15 °C. The strongest rosettes are formed in the first year of cultivation. Over time, the whiskers become smaller; by the end of the life of the plantation, strawberries almost do not form vegetative shoots.

Benefits of mustache breeding

Propagation of strawberries with a mustache is preferable to seeds.

  1. You can quickly get a lot of young plants.
  2. The mustache retains all the varietal characteristics of the mother bush.
  3. High survival rate of outlets.
  4. Ease and availability of reproduction.

The main disadvantage of this method is that it is impossible to simultaneously obtain a high yield of berries and a good strong mustache.

Getting a mustache

For propagation of strawberries take a July mustache. They are the strongest, well-formed, before winter they will have time to form a powerful root system and lay many flower buds. Up to 15 mustaches are obtained from one plant. No more than 5 shoots with 3 rosettes on each are left on the mother bush. The rest of the mustache and shoots are removed. Mustaches of the first order are the largest, the second and third - a little smaller, but also suitable for breeding. The rest of the whiskers are small and it is not advisable to leave them, they only weaken the plant.

When propagating strawberries with a mustache, they are taken only from bushes with big amount horns. On the plot, plants are selected according to certain criteria (taste, berry size, yield, etc.). All emerging flower stalks are removed from them, then the strawberries will switch only to mustache formation. Fruiting and reproduction are incompatible processes, if they are combined, then there will be no high yield, no good mustache. In the selected mother bushes, the mustache is allowed to grow freely, but as soon as 3 rosettes are formed, the garland is cut off.

When roots appear on the mustache, they are sprinkled with moist earth, without separating them from the mother plant. Watered in hot dry weather 2-3 times a week, in rainy weather loosen as the soil compacts. It is not recommended to separate the rosette from the bush ahead of time, since each previous horn feeds the next one with its roots, and the entire garland is strengthened by the roots of the mother plant.

Sometimes the mustache is rooted immediately in nutrient pots, which are slightly buried in the ground. This method of obtaining seedlings has an advantage, since young strawberries are planted with a clod of earth and seedlings take root much better.

2 weeks after picking the berries (2-2.5 months after the start of growth), the mustache is already fully formed and has a good root system. For planting, rosettes with 4-5 well-developed leaves, a large heart and roots at least 7 cm long are selected. They are separated from the mother plant and, together with a clod of earth, are planted in a permanent place.

Obtaining horns from strawberries grown with mulch

If the bed with uterine bushes is covered with mulch, through which the roots of the horns cannot break through, then the mustache dives in phase 3 of the leaves and primordia of the roots on the bottom of the horn. Such rosettes require light soil for rooting. For them, a mixture is prepared, consisting of peat, garden soil and sand in a ratio of 2:1:1.

They are planted densely: 100-130 mustaches are placed per 1 m 2. The depth of the grooves is not more than 2 cm. The horns are shaded with mulching material and watered periodically. After the roots grow, the seedlings are planted in a permanent place. On poor soil, in order to obtain a high yield in the first year, strawberries are planted densely; on fertile soil, they must be planted immediately according to the scheme.

It should be noted that this method of reproduction is of little use on garden plot due to its complexity and the need to allocate a separate area for seedlings. It is easier to remove the mulch from the plot for the time of strawberry formation.

Mustache rooting in a permanent place without transplantation

Any transplant weakens the plant and leads to damage to the roots, even if minor. After it, the mustache takes root in a new place for some time, some of them die. The advantages of rooting immediately in a permanent place are as follows.

  1. Roots penetrate deeper into the ground than seedlings.
  2. Plants are able to extract water from deep soil layers.
  3. Strawberries become more drought tolerant.
  4. Rooting the mustache immediately in a permanent place gives an increase in yield.

This method of propagating strawberries is very suitable for the southern regions, where there is often a drought in summer.

To root the mustache immediately in a permanent place, shoots with rosettes without roots are sent to Right place where they are allowed to take root.

There are 2 ways to reproduce by this method:

  • creation of a new row;
  • the formation of a colony of rosettes around the mother plant.

Creating a new row next to the existing row of strawberries. This method of reproduction is more convenient to use with single-row planting. Growing vegetative shoots (no more than 4-5 from one plant) are directed in the right direction or on both sides of the mother bushes. The rest of the whiskers are removed.

Second-order rosettes are rooted, since the first order of the mustache is too close to the mother bush. So that the first mustache on the garland does not interfere with rooting, their roots or foliage are cut off. When the young bushes gain strength, they are separated from the mother plant, cutting off the shoot, and cared for like all other young bushes.

Strawberry colony. The method is used when you need to get a lot of mustache good variety, but there is no place for a garden bed on the site. Then a few varietal plants planted between bushes or under the crown of trees and all summer long give the mustache the opportunity to grow in all directions (but not more than 5 on a garland).

In mid-August, weak plants are culled and the best ones are left. The distance between the remaining mustache and the mother bush should be 25-30 cm. Such a plot, like a garden bed, is kept clean, constantly weeded, watered and carefully loosened, trying not to damage the young sockets. As a result, by autumn, a varietal colony of strawberries appears on very strong roots, which in subsequent years gives high yields.

Reproduction of strawberries by dividing the bush

This propagation method is used when strawberries produce few vegetative shoots or they do not meet the requirements for them (sick, small, etc.). Strawberries are propagated by dividing bushes and with too much crop fall after winter. Then the young strawberries are left for fruiting, and the adult formed plants are divided into horns.

Only 3-year-old bushes are suitable for propagation by horns. There are too few horns on young ones, the old ones are unsuitable for reproduction, since they form a small lignified stem, the heart is above the ground. Such plants, even when divided, continue to form a stem, that is, the same old bush, which will no longer give good harvests.

They choose a powerful 3-year-old strawberry, in which the heart is at ground level, and divide it into horns. From one bush, depending on the variety, there can be from 6 to 20 horns. The resulting sockets are planted in a permanent place in the first decade of August. Of these, by the end of September, new young plants will form.

Reproduction in this way is not very common, it is used only in case of urgent need.

Planting strawberries in a permanent place

Strengthened rooted mustaches or horns obtained by dividing the bush are planted at the end of July immediately to a permanent place where they will grow for 4 years. The soil for strawberries should be prepared 1-2 months in advance.

It is better not to plant young plants after potatoes and tomatoes. Strawberries cannot tolerate their root exudates and the whiskers will be severely depressed. The longer nightshades grew in this place, the more they left secretions, and the more strawberries are oppressed. If the predecessor was not in the ground for long (for example, early potatoes), then he left less root secretions, and young bushes will not react so strongly to them. If there is no other option and you have to plant strawberries after nightshade, then you need to remember that the plants will gradually straighten out, but the first harvest will be less.

The second undesirable precursor is pumpkin crops. They don't provide harmful influence on strawberries, but they take out almost all the nitrogen from the soil, which is so necessary for the mustache to grow and prepare for winter. When planting mustaches after pumpkin, increased doses are introduced into the soil organic fertilizers: on heavy loams and sandy soils 5 buckets / m 2, on medium and light loams - 3 buckets / m 2.

Mistakes when propagating strawberries

These are the main mistakes.

  1. The mustache was separated too early from the mother bush. Rosettes for self-growth should form a good root system. With early pruning of the shoot, they begin to lag behind in growth, do not tolerate winter well, among them there are many attacks. The first mustache takes root in early June, with a warm spring at the end of May. Separate them from an adult plant should be no earlier than 60-70 days.
  2. Uncontrolled mustache growth. By autumn, with such cultivation, up to 30 small underdeveloped rosettes are formed. Uncontrolled mustache formation significantly weakens the uterine bush and prevents the full development of the mustache. As a result, there is no good planting material, and the yield of the mother plant for the next year is reduced to nothing.
  3. The mustache is temporarily dropped in and only later planted in a permanent place (this is especially true for purchased planting material). Frequent replanting severely damages the roots, it takes a long time before the strawberries grow them again, the bushes weaken, take root worse, many attacks the next year.
  4. Planting strawberries in unprepared soil. Even good planting material does not develop well in such conditions.

It is easy to propagate strawberries, but it is important to do it correctly, then the seedlings will form good bushes, which, when proper care give a high yield.

Other useful articles about growing strawberries:

  1. The article details how to care for a strawberry plantation from early spring to late autumn.
What to do with strawberry mustache

First you need to decide if you need a mustache for breeding. This method is very easy and allows you to preserve the varietal qualities of strawberries.

How to remove mustache from strawberries correctly

Even if you decide to breed strawberries, you should not allow the planting to thicken due to the mustache. This contributes to the development of diseases, and the next harvest will be small.

I remove the shoots with a sharp pruner or knife. Most often I do this in the spring before the berries appear, or in the fall after fruiting is completed, in the early morning or evening. Do not cut off with your hands, as there is a possibility of damage to the roots.

What to do with a mustache for breeding strawberries

For propagation, I choose the strongest shoots of the first rows from a large mother bush. Subsequent rows are usually weaker.

In the first year of fruiting, I make sure to cut out all the whiskers in order to determine more productive bushes, and mark them with flags. Next year I use them as uterine. Most whiskers give biennial plants.

You can not grow mustaches and berries at the same time, the plant will waste energy. So you will not get a crop or good seedlings for propagation.

Strawberry bushes that are intended for propagation also need to be cut, partially removing the whiskers. The fact is that a plant can produce 10 mustaches, they will be weak and take root poorly. On the bush, I leave no more than 5 of the strongest and strongest whiskers with rosettes.

It is them in June that I pin to the ground, fix with wire staples and water them. I shorten the ends of the processes, pinching them by 1-2 cm, but do not cut them off. In order for the mustache to root, I water it well, I often add Kornevin when watering. I loosen the earth around the sockets after watering and rains, weed and spud every two to three days.

7 days before the transplant, I cut off the rooted mustache from the maternal outlet and the plant begins to feed on your own, from its roots.

For 3-4 years of life, strawberries give the maximum yield, so I remove the mustache completely. But for 5 years root system aging, the plant is often sick, the crop is smaller. Therefore, in the fall, after harvesting, I root young mustaches, and transplant them to a new place for crop rotation. I remove the old strawberries completely, planting the territory with green manure to renew the soil.

Mustaches should be left only in case of reproduction, otherwise strawberries will not have the strength to form large berries. In addition, a dense planting due to a mustache can lead to the multiplication of dangerous diseases.

 
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