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Watermelon care. Technology of growing watermelons in open ground, soil selection, formation and care. Planting watermelon seeds

First you need to clearly understand that in order to grow a high-quality watermelon in the open field, you need the same high-quality planting material, so buy seeds in the places you have checked. If your personal plot is located closer to the south of Russia, then you can grow watermelons in open ground, otherwise, most likely, you can’t do without a greenhouse.

Place and soil

It should be a very sunny place with deep waters, as watermelon does not tolerate excessive moisture. The soil is preferable sandy or sandy, light, as the juiciness of the berry is gaining from the root system, which penetrates deep into the ground. In heavy soil root system watermelon is not able to fully develop, however, its deep loosening will slightly improve the situation. pH 6.5-7.0. Pay attention to the presence, oh how watermelon does not like them.

Well, if the predecessor of watermelons was alfalfa or winter wheat. It is impossible to grow watermelons after any melon crop or nightshade.

In autumn, the land is fertilized with rotted manure (4-5 kg ​​per 1 sq.m). Fresh manure makes the plant vulnerable to fungal diseases.

Preparation of watermelon seeds and sowing in open ground (seedless method of growing watermelons in open ground)

Before sowing in open ground, watermelon seeds need to be heated in the sun (right in a bag) for 10 days, so that their temperature reaches 55 ° C, if the seeds are wet, then up to 30 ° C. Then fill them with water and leave for 30 minutes. Those watermelon seeds that float up will have to be thrown away, they are not suitable for sowing. Next fill hot water(50-60°C), when the water has cooled, drain it and soak until it pecks. If the seeds cannot be calcined in the sun, then since February the seed has been stored near the battery. 3 days before the proposed sowing in the morning, prepare a solution of ash (1 part ash to 2 parts water), stir for 12 hours. On the same day, in the evening, dip the seeds for 15-20 minutes in a dark solution of potassium permanganate, rinse and dip them overnight in the prepared ash solution. Take it out the next morning and dry it.

Watermelon seeds can be sown from the end of April until mid-June, it all depends on the weather conditions and when you want to get the harvest. Focus on soil temperature (16 ° C).

Watermelon seeds are sown to a depth of 6-8 cm at the rate of 10 seeds per running meter, let it be planted more densely, because it is not a fact that all the seeds will sprout. To obtain large watermelons, fresh seeds are usually taken for sowing, since small watermelons will be obtained from old seeds with big amount ovaries of flowers on one plant. Water the soil after sowing warm water. The first shoots should appear a week after sowing. When 5 leaves appear, hill the plants, with careful loosening of the soil. Remember that warm weather and lack of rain is important for watermelons, so shelter should always be at hand. Sometimes, when the fruits reach 10 cm in diameter, the main lash is pinched with the removal of all side shoots, then the plant spends all its strength on the development of the main ovary.

Growing seedlings of watermelons for open ground

It is easy to grow watermelons in open ground using seedlings. To grow seedlings of watermelons, use peat-humus pots, this is very convenient because when transplanting, seedlings are not removed from them, they are planted directly in the holes, which means they do not damage the vulnerable root system. If you use plastic cups, then the seedlings are removed with a clod of earth, doing this very carefully, without damaging the roots. At the end of April, pour into peat-humus pots (each seed has its own pot) on 2/3 of the soil mixture from peat, humus and soddy soil in a ratio of 2: 1: 1. Soak the seeds in warm water (up to 50 ° C) for 10 minutes. Now deepen one watermelon seed by 1 cm. As the seedling grows, pour in the soil mixture and monitor the temperature in the room (25-30 °). When the first true leaf appears, a complex mineral fertilizer is applied, and after 2 weeks, top dressing is repeated. When you notice that the leaves of the watermelon seedlings have begun to touch each other, move the pots apart. Watermelon seedlings will be ready for planting in open ground at the age of 30 days, at which point the plant should have about 5 true leaves. A week before transplanting watermelon seedlings into open ground, harden plants (lower the temperature to 17 ° C during the day, and to 12-15 ° C at night.

Immediately before planting, seedlings are fertilized in the soil, about 2 kg of compost is added to each hole with abundant watering. Watermelon seedlings are planted in open ground in holes on ridges according to the scheme 140x70 or 140x140, deepening by 8-10 cm in the resulting slurry, but so that root collar was 1-2 cm above the surface of the ridge. If you plant 2 plants in one hole, then so that they do not touch each other, straighten the whips in different directions. Fill the holes with dry soil, then the crust will not form.

In central Russia, choose varieties of watermelons for growing in open ground with the earliest ripening period and medium-sized sizes.

Care of watermelons in the open field

Watering is very moderate, especially during the ripening period, reduce it to a minimum. 14 days after planting watermelons in a permanent place, add a solution of ammonium nitrate (20 g of the drug per bucket of water per 1 bush 2 liters of solution). During the budding period, top dressing is repeated.

Only 2-6 ovaries are left on the bush. Each time after moistening the soil, loosening is carried out until the foliage closes. In windy weather, watermelon lashes are sprinkled with moist earth, and during the period of possible frosts, the plants are covered with non-woven material.

Place foil or any other non-rotting material under the plants so that moisture, from which the fruits can begin to deteriorate, cannot spoil the crop.

Turn watermelons regularly to ensure even ripening.

Pay attention to the fruits, if one berry began to grow intensively, while others lag behind in development and turn yellow, then additional feeding is required.

Collection of watermelons

In August, there is an intensive ripening of watermelons, so their readiness for harvest can be determined by a set of signs:

• glossy surface;
• drying of the bract;
• there are no hairs on the stalk;
• when tapping on the berries, a dull sound is heard.

We invite you to watch a video on how to grow Charleston Gray and Orange King watermelons from seed soaking to harvest.

Very often, watermelons in stores and markets have dubious taste, giving customers a lot of disappointment from the dissonance of expectations and reality. And melons do not always meet the requirements environmental safety, especially if they were purchased at the breakups along the highways, from cars in the yards or in other unauthorized places of trade. Your favorite berry can turn out to be either simply tasteless - watery and fresh, or with a rotten middle or stuffed with nitrates with a characteristic "chemical" tinge in taste and a suspiciously smooth cut. Therefore, many summer residents and gardeners are trying to grow this crop on their site.

In modern melon growing, the most different methods cultivation of watermelons. They are cultivated in greenhouses, in-depth bioheated greenhouses, film tunnels and in an open way without the use of protective structures. But it is the berries that have grown "in the wild", and not in shelters, and properly saturated with the energy of the sun, that turn out to be the most delicious, have a sweet, fragrant, melting pulp in your mouth. Let's find out what you need to know about growing watermelon in the open field in order to avoid mistakes and vain work, and which varieties are guaranteed to please you with a stable harvest of delicious berries.

Features of the process in different regions

For a long time, the cultivation of watermelons remained the privilege of the southern regions with a hot climate, but thanks to the efforts of breeders, the situation has changed. Scientists have improved many valuable forms table watermelon, have bred early and hybrid varieties adapted to various climatic conditions, among which there are hybrids available for cultivation in any area.

Therefore, the Russian south has ceased to be the only place where it is possible to cultivate watermelons. The geography of growing the largest berry has expanded to the Urals, the northwestern regions - Siberia and Altai, the Moscow region and the regions of the Central Federal District, the Central Black Earth and Volga-Vyatka regions.

If you are going to start growing melons in a short and sometimes changeable summer with a predominance of cloudy days, as in the north of Russia, you should not count on a crop of large watermelons weighing 10-20 kg. The fruits simply do not have enough time for full ripening in a short summer season.

Having managed to form thick, strong lashes with flowering shoots, gourds will stop growing and developing during the autumn drop in temperature indicators. After the transition of the average daily temperature through the mark of 13-15 ° C and the reduction of daylight hours to 12-14 hours, they die.

The success of growing watermelons in conditions very different from those at home, in which thermophilic plants feel comfortable depends on several factors.

• Knowledge and adherence to the nuances of agricultural technology. Watermelon, like melon, loves warmth. But for seeds to sprout, t 14-16 ° C is enough, while this is not enough for the roots. To activate the growth of the root system, a temperature of at least 23 ° C is needed. And in the phase of bud formation and during flowering, the thermometer should stay at 18-20 ° C even at night.

• The right choice of landing method. Cultivation of gourds in an open way in areas with unstable weather and short summers implies the preparation of warm high beds. Under the protection of greenhouses and tunnels, plants also have time to fully mature, without experiencing stress from exposure to negative temperatures. When used medium early maturing varieties it is advisable to resort to the seedling method of growing gourds.
• Competent selection of varieties of watermelon taking into account the climatic features of a particular area and the experience of the farmer.

Choice of variety and location

Today's varietal diversity popular melon culture has over 200 items. When choosing a variety are guided by several criteria.

Origin

To make it easier to navigate in such a variety of forms, they were systematized into 10 groups in accordance with a geographical feature, highlighting:

• Russian;
• Western European;
• small, medium and East Asian;
• Transcaucasian;
• Far East;
• American;
• Indian;
• afghan group.

In our latitudes, amateur growers are usually engaged in the cultivation of varieties united in the Russian, sometimes in the Central Asian or Transcaucasian group. The advantage of these forms of watermelon is high environmental sustainability, characterized by the ability to withstand the influence of stress factors. environment while maintaining productivity.

Many experienced melon growers prefer to deal with imported hybrids, which is quite understandable. After all, many foreign breeders prioritize the improvement of external features and taste of fruits. The main advantages of foreign hybrid varieties are high marketability and resistance to infections. Their downside is increased requirements to the diet, so you have to take care of them much more carefully than domestic ones.

Therefore, for those who have just begun to master the wisdom of melon growing, it is better to abandon such options in favor of our F1 varieties.

Vegetation time

In areas of the non-chernozem zone with a temperate cool climate, the best productivity is shown by the cultivation of early and ultra-ripe varieties with early period ripening (up to 80 days).

It is important to remember that there is no point in acquiring large-fruited varieties, because in such conditions they do not have time to ripen.

In regions where summer pleases with a large number of warm sunny days, it is already possible to safely deal with medium or late-ripening varieties or hybrids with a ripening period of 80-95 days.

Cold and drought tolerance

For cultivation in Siberia or the middle zone, it is required that the variety be resistant to negative temperatures and withstand return frosts. Accordingly, when watermelons are cultivated in the Central Chernozem region, especially in its southeastern part, where the climate is drier than in the western, the ability of the variety to tolerate drought becomes of fundamental importance.

Sugar content

Representatives of early ripening varieties have a higher sugar content compared to varieties of medium and late deadline vegetation.

Popular varieties

The following selection presents the most popular varieties of table watermelon for outdoor cultivation.

Among them there are both classic varieties that have repeatedly proven their viability in practice, as well as several new ones that have already managed to earn the trust of melon growers.

• "Siberian". The interest of summer residents in this ultra-early variety is due to resistance to weather disasters, unpretentiousness, excellent immunity and very high taste. Fruits with intense red tender flesh under a thin peel have an unusually sweet taste and can compete with Astrakhan watermelons.

• "Delicacy F1". One of the new high-yielding hybrids of wide elliptical form with medium greenish, dissected leaf blades, thin skin and pulp of rich scarlet color, medium-dense consistency. Pumpkins with narrow stripes, colored much darker than the light green background. Fruits on average weigh 3.5-4 kg. Productivity - up to 5 kg / m2. With poor transportability, the variety has high drought resistance.

• "Sugar Lightning F1". Ultra-early cold-resistant form, recommended for cultivation in the middle zone. Taste qualities are beyond praise and fully correspond to the name of the variety. Fruits with fragrant scarlet pulp will delight you with a sugary-sweet honey taste. The color is uniform, dense green without a characteristic striped pattern. Leaf blades are miniature, strongly dissected. The ripening period is 65 days from germination to the first harvest of fruits.

• Charleston Grey. One of original varieties with oblong elongated cylindrical fruits of light green uniform color without a striped pattern. Ukrainian breeders were engaged in its breeding. Berries are famous for their wonderful taste of sugary red or pink pulp, very delicate in texture. Due to the light color of the smooth crust, they do not heat up in the heat, so they not only relieve thirst, but also have an excellent tonic effect. The presence of a hard peel allows the fruits to easily endure long-distance transportation. Watermelons of this variety can increase their mass in the range of 13-18 kg. Technical ripeness occurs after 70-95 days from the moment of germination.

• "Delight". Vegetation terms - 85-95 days. Plants of this variety are characterized by the formation of long lashes with strongly dissected leaves and large spherical fruits. Commodity pumpkins weigh an average of 7-9 kg. They are painted in thick green color and covered with a pattern of prickly stripes even more dark shade than background. The red fine-grained juicy pulp contains a large amount of solids (11-13%) and natural sugar (9-10.5%). "Vostorg" attracts buyers with high taste qualities, beautiful shade peel and versatility of application. The fruits are consumed fresh, salted, canned, squeezed out of them for juice and prepare a delicious nardek. The variety is distinguished by high transportability and complex disease resistance.

• "Striped torpedo F1". in demand hybrid variety with a "talking" name. Duration growing season- 84-92 days. When grown in open ground, the fruits on average increase their weight by 6 kg, the record figures are 11 kg. Plants form many branched shoots with a long main stem. Berries have a high sugar content - about 7-9%. The variety is characterized by a long return of the crop, the resistance of the bushes to the defeat of Fusarium wilt and anthracnose. The root system of the hybrid withstands high temperatures and low humidity. On rainfed crops, the yield is 17-22 kg/10 m2.

• Melania F1. Dutch hybrid variety with high commercial qualities, excellent taste, resistant to heat and cold. Suitable for growing in areas with any climatic conditions. Elliptical fruits, with smooth surface and a pattern of dark green blurred wide stripes. The crust has an average thickness, the pulp of a medium-dense consistency is colored in rich red. Technical ripeness occurs in 80-105 days. The berries tolerate transportation over long distances well and have good keeping quality.

• Bykovsky 22. The variety is characterized by good transportability, drought resistance, high marketability of fruits with excellent taste. Watermelons are intended for fresh consumption. Spherical fruits with a smooth surface have a whitish or greenish color and a pattern of green narrow spiny stripes. pulp Pink colour, with a grainy texture and juicy taste. Ripening terms - 91-104 days. The average weight of marketable fruits is 4.5 kg.

• "Bush 334". A distinctive feature of representatives of a common large-fruited variety is the limited growth of lashes. Compared to watermelons that produce long shoots, bush plants tend to form 4-5 lashes, reaching a length of only 70-80 cm. Such a compact melon plantation saves space in the beds, which is especially appreciated by owners of modest plots. On each lash, only one berry is formed with a strong crust and pink granular flesh of a dense consistency. Commercial fruits weigh 6-8 kg, tolerate long-term transportation well, have high keeping quality (up to 3 months) and resistance to most diseases.

How to choose a place for melon?

The cultivated watermelon inherited from its small wild relatives and the common ancestor of the African melon a love for the bright sun during the daytime and warmth at night. Therefore, it is necessary that the place where it is planned to break the beds is well lit by the sun and protected from strong winds.

It is optimal when the landing site is oriented to the south or southeast.

Scattered shrubs or trees with a lush crown should not grow nearby, limiting the access of the sun to plantings. In cloudy weather and lack of sun, the rate of photosynthesis slows down, the fruits accumulate less natural sugar and dry matter.

This melon culture tends to form a powerful root system, consisting of the main root and lateral roots, which, in turn, form numerous roots of higher orders. Ideally, the location of groundwater in the planting area should be as far as possible from the soil surface, which avoids waterlogging of the beds and rotting of the roots.

It is equally important to observe the rules of crop rotation when cultivating watermelon. The best predecessors for it include representatives of the legume, umbrella and cabbage (cruciferous) families. The worst former "owner" of the beds is the closest relative of the pumpkin, which has common pests with watermelon.

It is desirable to allocate a large landing area for melons, so as not to limit the freedom of growth of thin creeping lashes.

Preparation

Although watermelon is a crop that is insensitive to the level of soil acidity, however, the best productivity is shown by its cultivation in fertile soils high in digestible nutrients. The pH values ​​should vary within 6.5-7 units. It grows well in light, loose sandy soil with high air permeability and rapid warming up or sandy loamy soil containing up to 90% sand.

How to prepare the soil?

The earth needs to be enriched with organic matter. To this end, it will be necessary to autumn processing soil by digging, followed by leveling the earth with a rake, after removing the remains of the green mass of the predecessor plant. With the advent of spring, beds are broken up and semi-rotted manure or compost is applied as an organic fertilizer.

Mineral fertilizers are applied on the basis of:

• ammonium sulfate 20-30 g/m2;
• superphosphate - 34-40 g / m2;
• potassium salt - 10-20 g / m2.

When grown under film coated prepared beds are covered with polyethylene or non-woven material.

seed

Compared to other melon crops, watermelon seeds are the most difficult to germinate. Pre-sowing preparation increases the chances of getting friendly and strong seedlings.

It is carried out through several techniques.

• Mechanical calibration of seed according to size. The separation of large seeds from smaller ones and their sowing in separate containers according to the caliber ensures the production of friendly seedlings with equally developed seedlings.

• Sorting seeds according to density. Immersion seed material in an aqueous saline solution helps to identify light specimens unsuitable for sowing. Floating seeds are discarded, and seedlings are grown from heavier, sunken seeds.
• Disinfection. For disinfection, the seeds are kept in a weak 0.5% solution of potassium permanganate for 15-20 minutes, and then dried naturally. For the same purpose, the seed is heated in the sun for a week or using thermostats or dryers for 3-4 hours, at t up to 60 ° C.
• Soaking and germination. The presence of a thick leathery protective shell in seeds significantly slows down the emergence of sprouts. Therefore, they are wrapped in a piece of dense matter and soaked in a container of water at t 22-25 ° C for 24 hours. After that, the seeds are laid out on a damp cloth, leaving to swell until the roots appear.

• Heat treatment. The seed is heated in a vessel with water t 45-50°C for half an hour. Exposure to elevated temperature accelerates all biochemical processes in the seeds, as a result of which they will germinate much more actively.
• Scarification. This procedure it is advisable to carry out when growing melons in the areas of the middle zone. Its essence boils down to damage to the protective shells of seeds on sandpaper for accelerated germination.

How to prepare seedlings?

In the open field, watermelons are cultivated through seedlings or seedless method. At dachas in the Central Black Earth region, Krasnodar Territory, the lower reaches of the Volga, seeds can be sown directly into the soil. For non-chernozem regions, an exclusively seedling method of growing gourds is suitable.

• auspicious time for sowing seeds - April-May. It is advisable to prepare potted seedlings 3-4 weeks before planting.
• For the preparation of nutrient soil mixtures take sod land, peat and humus in a ratio of 1: 1: 1. Sandy soil is mixed with 10% mullein.
• The optimal size of seedling pots is 10-12 cm in diameter, which allows the roots to develop freely. Watermelon is contraindicated in damage to the root system. The containers are filled with soil mixture and the seeds are deepened by 3-4 cm.
• Until the sprouts appear, it is important to maintain in the place where the seedlings stand, t 22-25 ° C during the daytime, and make sure that at night the thermometer does not fall below 17 ° C. Otherwise, the seeds may stretch out the hypocotyl knee.

• As soon as sprouts appear, t should be reduced by 4-6 ° C and the seedlings should be left for a couple of days to get used to such conditions. After a week and a half, they must be fed with a solution of mullein or chicken manure in a ratio of 1: 10, mixed with superphosphate diluted in water at the rate of 2-3 g of fat per liter.
• When watering seedlings, avoid getting water on the leaves. It is not necessary to pinch the seedlings. Watering is carried out as needed, avoiding excessive waterlogging of the earth.
• Before planting in the soil, seedlings are accustomed to staying on outdoors. To harden young plants, seedling containers are placed in a sufficiently lit, warmed up and reliably protected from the wind place on the site.

The readiness of sprouts for planting in open ground is evidenced by the formation of at least three true leaves.

How to plant?

Seedlings are transplanted into open ground, starting from the last days of May and until the end of the first decade of June. In the holes, it is permissible to plant both one by one and a pair of seedlings. When planting in pairs, the processes are turned in different directions in order to prevent the chaotic interweaving of side shoots in the future. This culture is characterized by the continuous growth of lashes that can stretch 5-7 meters.

The order of transplant work

• Dig two rows of holes, adhering to a checkerboard pattern. The minimum distance between rows is 50 cm, between seats - 1-1.4 m.
• Compost is poured into the pits of 1.5-2 kg each and spilled with water. Consumption rate - 2 liters per seat.
• The sprouts are removed from the seedling container while preserving the earthen clod and placed in holes, deepening them to the cotyledons.
• It remains to sprinkle the ground around the plants with a thin layer of sand in order to prevent the development of the black leg, a dangerous fungal disease that causes rotting of the plantings.

With a seedless method of growing gourds, seeds are sown in the ground warmed up to t 13-14 ° C. Sowing material of large-fruited varieties is deepened by 7-9 cm, and small-fruited varieties - by 5-6 cm.

There are several ways of sowing - in rows, squares, rectangular and square-nested, tape, which explains the variety of planting patterns. Most often, gourds in the garden are sown in rows. In this case, the width between the rows can vary between 1.5-2.7 m, and the distance between the holes in the rows can be from 50 cm to 2 meters, depending on the size of the fruit of a particular variety.

Work order

• Dig the required number of holes and moisten with water.
• The holes are filled with soil mixture: ash + humus + earth in equal parts + nitroammofoska 5 g. The consumption rate of the soil mixture is 15 g for each seat. They level it with a hoe and water it.
• Seeds are laid, deepening them by 5-8 cm. At least five seeds are placed in one hole, and after a while, when they sprout, one largest seedling is left.
• Crops are sprinkled with a thin layer of humus to avoid the formation of a crust that can damage the delicate sprouts that make their way out of the ground.
• Lightly tamp the soil to protect the seeds from wind and bird dispersal.

How to properly care?

In order to grow strong and healthy watermelons outdoors, you need to provide them with appropriate care at all stages of development from germination to fruit formation.

Unforeseen spring frosts are quite common in areas with temperate climate, giving summer residents a lot of problems. Therefore, it is better not to take risks and for the first time to build a shelter made of arcs and polyethylene in the garden with young seedlings or nonwoven fabric. When the first peduncles appear, the protection is removed to avoid damage to the plants in the phase of active formation of lashes.

Another option for effective double protection of crops in open ground during frosts in cold climatic zones is the use of multilayer plastic caps. To do this, cut off the lower part of liter PET bottles, and then cover each sprout with them. After that, the caps are closed with PET canisters with a volume of 5-6 liters, having previously cut off their bottom. Under the protection of plastic "matryoshkas", delicate stems are not afraid of cold, wind and aggressive sun, while inside it is light, warm and air circulates freely.

Watermelons are picky about soil moisture. They, like other melons, require watering throughout the entire period of growth and development. The lower threshold of soil moisture for them is 75-80%. To obtain fruits with high palatability at the ripening stage, the frequency of irrigation is reduced to reduce soil moisture by 5-10%.

In areas with sandy or sandy loam soils that have poor water holding capacity, the frequency of watering should be higher at lower water rates. In dachas and gardens with clay or loamy soils, plantings should be watered, on the contrary, less often, but plentifully.

Transplanted sprouts will need to be shaded and used for irrigation with warm water t 21-25 ° C for several days. If the weather is dry and hot, then seedling irrigation should be rare and plentiful. Daily rate water consumption for young seedlings is 0.2 liters.

The optimal mode of watering adult plants is one or two approaches every week, depending on weather conditions. Until flowering begins, watering should be moderate, while at the fruiting stage, irrigation is carried out with already increased rates. To increase the sugar content of fruits, plantings stop watering at the end of the growing season.

The water temperature must be at least 19-20°C. Usage cold water unacceptable, because it inhibits the development of plants and makes them vulnerable to the black leg. Irrigation is desirable to do in the morning. So the soil has time to warm up before night. In hot weather, plantings are watered in the evening.

For the first time, the beds are loosened at the end of the transplantation of plants into open ground. At the same time, the depth of loosening should not exceed 4-6 cm. Then the ground is loosened after rains and each irrigation until the plants begin to close with each other. As necessary, loosening is combined with weeding the ridges. Weeds are immediately disposed of as they are one of the main sources of infection.

During the season, watermelons will need to be fed three times. A week after planting the seedlings, a nutrient solution is used to fertilize the plants.

To prepare it, dilute in 20 liters of water:

• ammonium sulphate 64-70 g;
• double superphosphate 80-100 g;
• potassium salt 30-36 g.

When lashes begin to actively form on the melon, a second top dressing is performed. During this period, it is good to fertilize the plants with organic matter in combination with mineral fertilizers. For this purpose, an infusion of cow manure is used, for which the rotted mullein is diluted with water in proportions of 1: 10. Superphosphate and potassium salt are added to it at the rate of 2 g and 1 g of fertilizer per liter of infusion. Plants are watered between rows.

The appearance of the first ovaries is a signal for the third feeding.

This time, the dosage of fertilizer per 20 liters of water should be as follows:

• ammonium sulphate 48 g;
• superphosphate 20 g;
• potassium salt 70 g.

Application rate - 2 liters per bush. Instead of watering the holes, you can shed the furrows with a solution, which are carried out in advance, stepping back from the bushes 20-25 cm.

sprawling side shoots need to be periodically distributed over the garden. To avoid damage to too long branched lashes by the wind, they are tied to supports or sprinkled with moist soil.

When three or four pumpkins the size of an apricot are formed on the central lashes, they get rid of all the other ovaries by cutting them out. sharp knife. For processing sections, powder from charcoal. After that, the tops of the lashes are pinched, followed by the removal of female flowers.

The latter method is the most popular, as it guarantees almost 100% survival, so it is the best suited for beginner melon growers.

To do this, choose a stock and a scion that have a couple of real leaves. On the axial part of the shoots of pumpkin and watermelon, oblique cuts are made ¾ of the thickness of the stems and 0.5-0.6 cm long. The stems are cut so that the watermelon axial part enters from above into the axial part of the pumpkin. To increase the contact area, the stems are notched at an angle of 30°.

Carefully connect the plants with incisions like a "castle". To fix the grafting site, a grafting clip or food foil is used. Seedlings connected to each other are planted in one large container of 0.5-0.7 liters and placed in a well-lit place.

After 4-5 days, the watermelon stem is pinched below the place where the vaccination was made, so that the watermelon begins to receive nutrients from the roots of lagenaria. After another 4-5 days, the watermelon stem and the top of the pumpkin are removed.

You can transplant seedlings into open ground after a week, subject to good weather. When there is no film shelter on the beds, they are transplanted in May.

When do they ripen?

If you grow watermelons in open ground using a seedless method, then the seeds germinate after sowing for 8-10 days. And if you germinate the seeds and grow potted seedlings from them, then the appearance of sprouts can be expected a couple of days earlier. Rapid germination is facilitated by compliance with the temperature, light and humidity conditions in the room where the seedlings are standing.

How long a gourd culture grows in open ground from the formation of flowers and ovaries to the onset of technical ripeness directly depends on which variety of seed was used. In early forms, the duration of the growing season can vary between 65-70 days, in later forms it takes at least three months to fully mature.

August is the time for harvesting early ripening varieties. But watermelons are not harvested en masse during this period. An exception is cases of forced collection of melons due to early frosts.

For warm season they harvest only the most ripe pumpkins, identifying them by the following features:

• shiny (not matte) surface of the bark, dense to the touch;
• a dull sound if you knock on the bark and a characteristic crackle when the fruit is squeezed with hands;
• the presence of a dry stem of a brownish color;
• a clearly visible pattern of clear stripes and the presence of a yellow spot in the place where the fruit was in contact with the ground.

Since each of these signs is rather conditional, it is necessary to be guided by their combination. Otherwise, there is a high probability of cutting unripe berries.

Diseases and their treatment

When growing watermelons, most often you have to deal with several diseases.

Anthracnose

The first sign of the disease is the formation of brown or yellow spots on the leaves. If at this stage the fight against anthracnose is not started, then dark-colored “ulcers” will appear on the lashes, after which the plants will begin to die en masse. Bushes are treated with cuprosan or surgical treatment of plantings with a 1% solution is carried out Bordeaux mixture as an effective cell poison that destroys harmful fungi. The soil must be weeded. For preventive spraying of bushes, 80% of the wettable powdered contact fungicide "Cineb" is used.

powdery mildew

Infection is indicated by the appearance of whitish spots on the bushes. If measures are not taken in time, then the gradual withering and death of the green parts of plants will begin. Treatment involves the destruction of the affected lashes with fruits and the cultivation of the soil with a systemic contact fungicide "Dinocap" ("Karatan LC"). For prevention, the bushes are sprayed with a solution of colloidal sulfur. The frequency of treatments is once a week.

white rot

Predisposing factors for its occurrence - high humidity combined with sudden changes in temperature. Infection by the fungus of the green parts of plants leads to stops in development and a significant deterioration in the taste of the fruit. The onset of the disease can be diagnosed by the presence of white coating on lashes and leaf blades. After the destruction of the rotten parts of the plantations, they are treated with copper sulfate. A therapeutic and prophylactic solution for spraying bushes is prepared at the rate of 100-200 g of copper-containing microfertilizer per 20 liters of water.

The formation of watermelons in the open field is shown in the following video.

Growing watermelons in open ground is within the power of any gardener. To increase the yield, you need to follow some rules, then you will be able to please your relatives with an excellent harvest, thanks to which you can improve the body.

Soil selection

Many gardeners are thinking about how to grow watermelon in the country. Often, most of them believe that this undertaking will not lead to a large harvest, but as practice shows, this is not always true. You can grow watermelons not only in warm zones, but also in the Urals, Siberia, most importantly, find suitable seeds, but you still have to choose good soil. For gourds, it should be light, sandy and waterproof. Thanks to such a land, water will not stagnate, and the root system will develop normally. Do not plant watermelons on heavy and clay soils. They will not allow the plant to develop normally, so the yield will be small. If you still want to try to grow watermelons on such soil, you should try to improve it. To do this, you will need to add sand and humus to the ground.

To collect good harvest, you should plant watermelons in place of alfalfa or wheat. Land where nightshades have previously grown should be avoided, as yields will be low. It is advisable to decide in advance on the planting of watermelons and introduce chicken or cow manure into the soil in winter. However, you should not be zealous with fertilizers, as they can increase the acidity of the soil. If it is above 7.0 pH, then watermelons simply will not grow. That is why, before planting seeds, you need to measure it with a special device.

Ideal landing time

When thinking about how to grow a watermelon in the country, you should choose the right planting time. This plant is recommended to be planted in the ground in May, when the soil temperature is 10-15 °C. Often, gardeners immediately plant seeds in the ground without checking them for germination. However, this can result in few plants, as most seeds simply won't germinate. For this reason, it is better to wet them, cover with gauze and wait 2-3 days. When the sprouts hatch, it will be possible to reject the unusable ones and plant the best specimens in the ground.

Some gardeners want to get a crop faster, so they plant seeds in soil that is poorly warmed by the sun. You should not do this, because the seedlings may die due to temperature changes. After all, it is still cold at night, so the seeds will simply freeze.

So that growing watermelons in open ground does not cause trouble, it is recommended to plant this plant in a hole way. And in each of them you need to add a little ash. When planting watermelon seeds, you need to adhere to the scheme, that is, per 1 sq. m. no more than 1 plant, since melons adore the sun, they do not tolerate blackouts. 5 to 10 seeds are placed in each hole, as half of them will die. Subsequently, it will be necessary to leave only 1-2 plants in the hole, which will be the strongest.

This is to let you get healthy seedlings which will not freeze afterwards. As soon as the plants get stronger, they can be planted in the ground. No more than 2 plants should be placed in the hole, otherwise they will feel uncomfortable when they grow up. There is no need to cover the seedlings with a film, the main thing is to moderately water the watermelons so that they gain strength and subsequently give a good harvest.

plant care

Caring for watermelons outdoors is easy. At first, the seeds must be kept under the film, watering as the earth dries up. When the seedlings are fully strengthened, and the weather is warm outside, the film should be removed, and watering should be stopped when the fruits are tied. It is very important to constantly weed the ground, otherwise the watermelons will die due to lack of light. Do not forget to regularly loosen the soil, then the air will freely penetrate to the roots. Manure should not be added to the soil, as this can adversely affect the plants.

You will need to dilute 20 g of the product in 20 liters. 2 liters of solution are poured into 1 bush. When the plant has a bud, it is recommended to repeat the feeding. Often, 2-6 ovaries appear on each bush over time. So that they do not die, it is necessary to cover the plants with a film when the temperature drops. In windy weather, it is better to sprinkle the lashes with damp earth. If you do not heed these tips, then growing watermelons in the open field will not be successful.

When the plant bears fruits, they need to be turned over regularly so that they ripen as evenly as possible. Harvesting should be done in August, but you should first determine if the fruit is ripe. Indeed, some watermelons may lag behind in development, while others, on the contrary, are ahead of their counterparts.

Before harvesting, there are several signs of ripeness to consider. Ready fruits are glossy surface, dry bract. The absence of hairs on the stalk also indicates the maturity of the watermelon. You should knock on it, if the sound is deaf, you can pick a berry.

Following simple rules, you can easily care for seedlings and collect from small area a good harvest that will delight loved ones and friends. However, you should not eat and sell everything, you can make good jam from the fruits, which you can enjoy even in the winter season. Some housewives prepare it from crusts, so you should not throw them away.

Growing watermelons in the middle lane (video)

Gallery: watermelons in the open field (15 photos)

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Growing watermelons in the open field begins with the most important and crucial stage - the selection and preparation of material for sowing. Growers should initially pick right sort.

The right technology Growing watermelons outdoors begins with selecting seeds that are suitable for the climate. For example, Skorik watermelon is an early ripe variety that requires a warm climate, so it is preferred to be grown outdoors in Ukraine, namely in the south. In the Kuban, such hybrids are suitable for sowing: Orange King, Volcano, Bomba, Champagne Splashes. Caring for watermelons in the open field of these varieties is not difficult, and the fruits reach large sizes. With the right choice of seeds, watermelons in the open field can be grown even in Bashkiria, where growing even without the use of chemicals will give a good harvest. They even grow watermelons for business. Based on this, it is clear that the secrets of growing watermelons lie in proper preparation seeds.

Varietal plants must be prepared before planting as follows:

1. Initially, hold the seeds in salt water. This way you can identify bad seeds (they will float to the top).
2. Then, a couple of hours before planting, warm the seeds - the temperature should be 55 degrees. Or just leave them in the sun a week before sowing.

Prepare in another way:

1. Seeds for sowing are placed in a gauze bag and immersed in a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
2. Then all this is left in a plastic bag or under a film (covering material) and placed on a windowsill for 3 days, changing the water every day. After the first sprouts have appeared, the film is no longer needed. Thus, the seeds will germinate quickly.

Planting seeds

The technology of growing watermelons with seeds in open ground is not complicated, it is similar to growing other crops in open ground. Therefore, the question “how to grow watermelons, which are grown in a seedless way”, is very easy to answer. How to grow watermelon in this way? It is necessary to start sowing the prepared material in May, when the temperature of the earth at a depth of 10 cm warms up to 12–14 degrees.

Fertilizer is added to the wells for better development: ash, peat and humus are mixed in a bucket. How much to take top dressing depends on the area of ​​​​your site. Level and water the soil. Then place 5 seeds in each hole, so that later one of the strongest seedlings is selected. Firm the soil gently and water the plants generously.

seedling method

Agricultural technology for growing watermelons in the open field includes planting not only seeds, but also seedlings. This method of cultivation is actively used in areas with short and cold summers. How to grow berries in this way? 25–30 days we grow sprouts in peat pots or plastic containers. They are filled in equal proportions with ash, a mixture of peat soil and humus. Among huge selection land in specialized stores, you can choose a ready-made mixture for growing watermelons through seedlings.

Plant the seeds in moist soil a few centimeters. Then put all the pots under the film. The temperature there should be at least 20 degrees Celsius. When the first leaves begin to appear, the seedlings should move to a cooler place.

Seedlings need regular watering with warm water. Once you can feed everything with nitrogen and phosphorus fertilizers. A couple of days before planting watermelons in open ground, take the seedlings to fresh air. Seedlings thus acclimatize and easily take root in open ground.

Soil selection

An important question for this topic is what should be the soil for watermelons in the garden or on suburban area? After all, planting and caring for watermelons will be meaningless if you place them in the wrong place. Watermelons grow well on sandy or sandy soil. But in any case, sowing will be successful if the soil is light. The place should be well lit and warm. Growing watermelons is not possible in areas where there is ground water. Also acidic and highly moist soil is not suitable.

In the previous year, onions, alfalfa or legumes should grow in the garden.

Watering and feeding

How to care for watermelons after planting them in open ground? Outdoor care primarily includes watering and fertilizing. Grown seedlings need to be watered regularly. In the country, you can even install drip irrigation.

It is also not necessary to overdo it in this matter, because the watermelon crop may lose sugar content. Berries do not like frequent, but plentiful watering. The average humidity level should be 85 percent. When the ovary appears, care intensifies, and when berries are imposed, it is better to reduce the amount of water.

Caring for these berries in the open field necessarily includes top dressing. A week after planting in the ground, the berries need to be fed with a solution of superphosphate, ammonium sulfate and potassium salts in proportions of 40:30:15 g, respectively. The second top dressing occurs at the stage of active growth of the lashes. Here it is worth taking ammonium sulfate, superphosphate, potassium salts, but already in proportions of 20:10:35. If you do not reduce the dose of superphosphate during the second feeding, the fruits grow nitrate. How to make the plant even more resistant? On one plant, no more than 2-3 fruits should be left.

Pest control

Growing and caring for watermelons becomes difficult during the pest control phase. You can grow healthy watermelons if you carry out prevention in time. It consists in weeding the site.

The main harmful insect for melons is melon aphid. What does a watermelon affected by aphids look like? The first sign of her activity is the drying and curling of the leaves. If you don't keep an eye on the plant, the female may lay her eggs on the plant.

If you notice these pests, immediately treat the grown watermelon with a solution of onion peel. Another unpleasant guest is spider mite. To combat it, you can take an infusion of dope.

Video "Growing watermelons in the open field"

In this video you will hear helpful tips for growing watermelons.

Watermelon is a favorite treat not only for children, but also for adults. The juicy pulp of this berry refreshes well and quenches thirst in summer heat. If in the South a watermelon grows without any problems, then in the middle lane it is necessary to have certain knowledge in order for the plant to survive in the open field. The gourd culture reacts extremely positively to a warm climate and negatively to the cold, but first things first.

The site where you plan to grow this plant should be chosen with particular scrupulousness. There should be no shade at the site of the future plantation, the site should be as much as possible illuminated by the sun. The soil must be sandy ideal, but sandy loam is also suitable. Watermelon roots penetrate deep into the soil, from where they are saturated with moisture and saturated with sweetness, for this reason, dense, clay soil will not work. To make the soil the most porous, it must be dug up in the autumn. The acidity of the soil should not be higher than 7 units.

An excellent option would be to use areas where potatoes, onions, carrots, cabbage or wheat used to grow. It is worth noting that growing melons in one area for the second year in a row will turn out to be a failure for you. Before planting, do not ignore the clearing of the area, the watermelon will not tolerate extraneous neighbors in the form of weeds or other vegetation.

Good time to grow

Unfortunately, if the summer of the year turned out to be cool, then no tricks will help you get juicy, and most importantly sweet watermelon. It is worth being ready for a rich harvest only when the summer turned out to be successful, with hot, sunny days.

Planting a plant should begin as early as the end of May, by this period the soil will be warmed up quite well. If planting will be carried out by seedlings, then start seed preparation from the beginning of May. However, in any case, the last word remains with weather conditions. If at the beginning of May you only have to dream of warmth, then you should not rush into landing.

Seed preparation

Planting watermelons occurs in 2 ways - seedlings and seedless.

seedling method

The berry has dense and fairly hard seeds that require pre-soaking. Just half an hour is enough, but make sure that the water is warm. Seeds that float in water are unsuitable for planting, they can be safely disposed of. Cover the container with seeds and water with polyethylene and leave it in the sun, under its direct rays. So you create an analogue of a greenhouse. It is important that the temperature in such a greenhouse during the day does not fall below 25, and at night below 20 degrees.

After the seeds have hatched, they can be transferred to a cup with earth. Typically, this procedure can be carried out in late April or early May. When choosing a glass, remember that the root system in it should not be crowded. Damage to the roots for a watermelon will be fatal. Before planting, mix the soil with mineral composition and humus.

While the seedlings are growing, they will have to be fed for the whole process several more times. Plant several seeds at once in one glass, counting on the fact that one of them may not germinate. If both seeds give a sprout, then in the future they will simply be divided.

A sprout is healthy and suitable for transplantation, on which at least three healthy leaves have formed. Before planting, loosen the soil and add compost to it. Seedlings sit at a distance of 20 cm from each other. If you plant several sprouts in one hole, then later they should be deployed so that they grow in different directions. Recesses for seedlings should not exceed 10 cm in depth. When planting, the leaves must remain above the ground. At the end of the process, the seedlings are abundantly watered with warm water, so it will take root better.

seedless way

If the weather is already warm enough outside, you can plant watermelons without using seedlings. As in the previous version, the seeds should be soaked in warm water. After the seeds have hatched, you can start planting them, but no longer in a glass, this step can be skipped. It is worth noting that the method of planting watermelons immediately in open ground is permissible only if the weather forecast unambiguously denies the sudden onset of cold weather.

Several seeds are planted in one hole, prepare the holes in advance at a distance of 25 cm from each other. For an excellent harvest, mix soil, humus and ash in a 1 to 1 ratio. Add a few tablespoons to this mixture. mineral fertilizer. Add 1 tablespoon of this mixture to each well. Put the seeds in the holes and cover with humus on top. So you will not allow the formation of a crust in the top layer of soil.

watermelon care

Despite the fact that melons are considered unpretentious in their growth, it is worth knowing some of the nuances in order to get a rich harvest.

1. Imitation of a greenhouse. Weak sprouts are covered with material on top to prevent them from dying and getting a ripe berry ahead of schedule. To create a homemade greenhouse, stick a few pegs along the edges and stretch tight polyethylene between them. Such a greenhouse should be maintained until the end of June. When it comes time to shoot the film, it's best if it happens on an overcast day. This will allow the plant to adapt more easily. If you choose to remove the film on a hot, sunny day, you may end up burning the sprouts.
2. Watering. Excessive watering is unacceptable for watermelon, he prefers to feed on groundwater. The powerful root system of the plant successfully takes moisture from the lower layers of the soil. It is also impossible to overdry the watermelon, so it will not differ in its juiciness. The normal frequency of watering is several times a week.
3. Fertilizers. Already a week after planting seedlings in open ground, it needs to be fed with ammonium nitrate. In 20 liters of water it is necessary to dissolve only 10 grams of the substance. After such top dressing, fertilizer with the usual mineral composition once every few weeks will be sufficient. In addition to fertilizers, do not forget to hill the soil. It is vital for a watermelon to have loose earth, and experienced gardeners and completely forbid walking and trampling the ground next to the watermelon planting.
4. Molding. This part is important in the care of watermelons. If the lashes of the plant have grown very long, they can be safely tied up or nailed with earth so that the wind does not hurt. A month later, the formation of the first ovaries begins. When these ovaries reach the size large plum, leave the largest, a few pieces, the rest are removed. This procedure is called pinching. When a plant produces fruits, it provides them with all the necessary nutrients taken from the soil. When there are too many of these fruits, they will remain small, since the plant is not able to provide all of them with the necessary amount of components for growth and maturation. In order for the fruits to be large and tasty, several pieces are removed at the very beginning. On one bush, usually no more than pieces of watermelons are left.

Learn more about watermelon care here:

When watermelons begin their ripening, they can be turned from side to side about 1 time in 10 days. If the soil began to rot, it is worth putting a few boards under the berry, which will reduce contact with the ground.

Harvesting

The harvest traditionally takes place in August. In order to determine the degree of ripening of a watermelon, it is enough to carefully examine it. A ripe fruit will have a shiny skin and a dry tail. Peduncle at ripe berries won't be hairy. If you knock on the fetus, then you will hear a dull sound, it is on it experienced gardeners understand that it is time to harvest.