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The best soil for indoor plants. Soils and soil mixtures for indoor plants. Classification of finished soils

In this article we will consider: land and soil for indoor plants. Optimal ground parameters. How to measure soil moisture. Additional soil additives for different varieties flowers and plants.

You can often hear how the content indoor pots called land for plants. This is wrong. Earth or scientifically soil is a complex living structure, which is characterized by texture, acidity, fertility.

Optimal soil parameters for indoor plants and seedlings

What is used for home floriculture is called a substrate. It is prepared from several components:

It is based on soddy or leafy land.
Add to it lowland peat.

Tip #1. Note! High peat in indoor floriculture cannot be used. Continuing to decompose, it releases substances harmful to plants. In open field gardening, it is often composted.

Humus for indoor plants should be well rotted, dry and small.
Additives necessary for each type of plant.

A universal substrate is prepared from these components, which is:

sandy loam or light loam,
neutral or slightly acid reaction.

This environment is suitable for many houseplants. Such a mixture is used not only for home floriculture, it is suitable for growing seedlings of garden and horticultural crops.

Garden soil - the basis for the substrate

To prepare the plant mixture, soil from the garden is used, to which peat, sand, and mineral fertilizers are added, which are necessary for each type of plant. To know what is lacking in natural soil, you need to determine the structure, acidity and moisture content of natural soil.

Determination of acidity, humidity and structure of natural soil for the preparation of a room mixture. Optimization methods

Acidity can be recognized by the "wild" vegetation on the site. If field horsetail, chicken millet, horse sorrel, passerine sorrel, caustic buttercup, creeping buttercup, tricolor violet, marsh marigold, large plantain predominate, then the soil on the site sour. Field larkspur (Comfrey), lanceolate plantain, self-seed poppy, field bindweed, sprawling quinoa, white drowsiness, field mustard indicate that the soil alkaline.

Field mustard, predominant on garden plot, indicates the alkalinity of the natural soil.

More precisely, the pH level can be determined using litmus paper or an acidity meter.

To achieve a neutral reaction, add to acidic soils:

Lime,
Limestone or dolomite flour,
ash,
Eggshell.

Alkaline soil is converted using gypsum or calcium sulfate, sapropel type "B", slightly acid reaction.

An important factor of natural land, its ability to hold water, This is evidenced by the structure of the soil. The so-called weeds will help to establish it. high humidity shows such natural vegetation:

sweet clover white,
forget-me-not small-flowered,
swamp forget-me-not,
pennyroyal,
sedge thin,
sow thistle.

Grows on dry sandy soils different kinds saxifrage, stonecrop, juvenile, fat woman, creeping thyme, sapling, gerbil, etc.

Accurate readings of humidity are given by a special device - a tensiometer. By the deviation of the arrow on the color scale, the presence of moisture in the soil is determined.

Red - drought.
Orange - red - urgently needs watering.
Orange - a significant lack of moisture.
Yellow - green - lack of moisture.
Green - optimal humidity.
Blue - waterlogged.
Blue - excessively wet.

Sand and peat are added to reduce soil moisture. Peat and organic fertilizers are applied to dry soils.

Improving the fertility of the substrate for indoor plants by mulching, sapropel, purchased soil, earthworms

Soil fertility is improved by adding mulch, sapropel, purchased soil, earthworms.

Pebbles reduce the evaporation of moisture and decorate the plant.

Sapropel added to the soil mixture, taking into account the acidity of the base soil. different types of this unique fertilizer are used on soils of a certain type.

Purchased soils- the simplest solution for indoor floriculture. Most often, manufacturers offer a mixture of grassroots peat and mineral fertilizers. Benefits O substrate in that it is ready for planting most indoor plants and sowing seeds for seedlings. At further care requires frequent watering, because pure peat quickly evaporates water. The disadvantage is the constant introduction mineral dressings, since nutrients are easily dissolved and washed out of the substrate. Among flower growers, such mixtures are popular:

"Royal Mix" It is offered in different compositions for flowering and decorative deciduous plants.
"Live Blend" widely used for home flowers, seedling growing, cutting rooting.
"Florio's substrate for indoor plants" - a balanced mixture of mineral fertilizers based on grassroots peat, suitable for many houseplants.

earthworms they have no idea what heated debates and battles flare up between supporters and opponents of their use in indoor floriculture. If in open ground- this is an indispensable participant in the formation of humus, then in a cramped room pot it will not bring any benefit. Unless you offer him a large tub or a balcony box.

Folk ways to improve soil fertility

At self-training room mixture to improve fertility in the garden soil add manure, peat, litter, compost, eggshells, sawdust, yeast.

humus- 0.5 kg,
peat- 2 kg in sandy soils, 1 kg in clay soils.
dry bird droppings- 10 g,
mullein manure, from which the slurry is prepared at the rate of 1:20, insist a week. Before entering into the soil, it is diluted 2 times. Such a solution is often used to fertilize indoor plants with further care.
egg shell used to neutralize acidic soils.

Tip #2. Note! 10 g of ground shells will neutralize 10 liters of soil per pH scale unit.

Sawdust loosen heavy soils, in care they are used in the form of mulch. It is worth noting that only small chips are suitable for indoor floriculture, and conifers acidify the soil, therefore they are used together with ash, eggshell or dolomite flour.

Some flower growers use sleeping water to feed plants. Tea coffee, which improve the structure of the soil, evenly feed it, regulate acidity.

Sleepy coffee grounds - good feeding for soil substrate

A good supplement is sugar, which replenishes the soil with glucose. To make it beneficial, add EM - preparations, for example, "Baikal - EM -1". In its presence, sugar does not cause the growth of pathogens, but is converted into top dressing for indoor plants.

It is easier to use ready-made fertilizers that are commercially available.

Land and Soil for Houseplants: Analysis of Fertilizers for Growing Houseplants

Five popular brands

Garden shops offer big choice room mixes of universal and narrow application. Here are some of them.

Name	Application	Peculiarities
"Bona Forte"	Liquid mineral fertilizer for full growth, bright color of leaves and flowers.	Several formulations are available for flowering and deciduous plants.
Agricola	Stimulates and strengthens tissues, mobilizes plant immunity, compensates for the lack of substances in the soil.	The brand combines products of a narrow focus for ornamental crops, separately for orchids and ficuses.
"Gumi"	Organic fertilizer for any soil and plants, increases fertility, activates the growth and quality of plants.	The effect is enhanced with simultaneous use with EM drugs.
"Pocon"	The organomineral agent combines chemical elements nutrition and humic acids. Optimizes the qualitative composition of the soil, provides plants with an exhaustive amount of nutrition.	Balanced compositions of a narrow focus are designed for different plants.
"Fertilizer flower happiness for ..."	The continuation of the name contains a purpose, for example, "stimulating flowering", which means for blooming. And so for each group of indoor, balcony and greenhouse plants

Many fertilizer brands are designed for specific plants.

A modern range of fertilizers provides indoor floriculture with the necessary nutrition for plants of all kinds.

Features of soil care for indoor plants seasonally - spring, summer, autumn, winter

Substrate care is closely related to the growth characteristics of indoor crops in different seasons.

Spring most best time for the growth of all plants. In this they need to be supported. At this time, fertilizers are applied to the soil, in which nitrogen predominates. It is this element that stimulates the growth of tissues, especially stems and leaves, which is what plants need in the spring.

In summer when activity slows down it is important to support flowers with phosphorus - potash fertilizers, they are introduced into the soil autumn.

Most fertilizers contain all three NPK elements - nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium. Seasonal top dressings differ in the percentage of substances and a set of trace elements.

Preventive tillage from diseases and pests

Regardless of whether the substrate is purchased from a store or prepared independently, it is advisable to disinfect it before planting. This procedure is carried out in the oven or microwave.

Ignition lasts 45 minutes at a temperature not higher than +1250, otherwise the soil will char and become poisonous to plants

As a result of such treatment, pathogens and pests that live in the soil die. Unfortunately, along with them, the beneficial flora that synthesizes humus is destroyed. To resume soil life, the substrate is populated with effective microorganisms, for example, "Baikal - EM - 1". This must be done no later than two weeks before planting, and preferably a month.

Rubric: "Questions and answers"

Question number 1. Do I need to disinfect the soil for indoor plants?

Answer: Yes, it is necessary. In the natural earth brought from the garden, pests and diseases are always present. In a limited indoor pot, they are much more dangerous than in the open field. A month before planting, the substrate is calcined and populated with beneficial flora.

Question number 2. What is hydrogel for, and how to use it?

Answer: A special jelly-like polymer is added to the soil substrate to retain moisture. The hydrogel first absorbs water, and then gives it to the plant, so the intervals between waterings increase significantly.

Question number 3. What role does expanded clay play?

For loosening heavy soil.
For mulching the surface of the substrate.
As a drainage in the lower layer when growing plants that do not tolerate stagnant water.

Thanks to different fractions of expanded clay, you can choose the material for mulching, drainage, decoration.

Question number 4. How to apply coco substrate?

Answer: 1 kg of pressed substrate increases to 15 liters when soaked. This is a complete environment for growing indoor plants, which contains all the necessary substances.

Serious mistakes gardeners make when preparing the soil and caring for it

Application greenhouse soil in indoor floriculture. It is undesirable to use the soil of their greenhouse for indoor plants. In conditions high humidity fungal diseases develop that are dangerous for potted crops.

Use of the substrate for planting immediately after heat treatment. At high temperature not only pests and diseases die, but also beneficial microorganisms. They can be restored with EM drugs, but this takes time, at least two weeks.

For breeding and growing indoor flower plants various garden soils are needed. In the presence of sod, leaf, peat, humus, compost and heather soil, you can make various nutrient mixtures, in accordance with the needs of a given plant.

sod land harvested in dry meadows with a rich herbage consisting of cereals and clover. It is better to do this in June - July. The turf is cut manually with a shovel into layers 10 cm thick, 25 cm wide, up to 50 cm long. The turf is stacked, grass to grass, mature and up to 1 m wide. . Since water contributes to the decay of plant residues, a recess must be made in the upper part of the stack to accumulate rainwater. During the summer, the pile is needed by the end of the second year Sod land will not be ready for use until the end of the second year.

This mixture is classified as heavy garden soil due to the high content of minerals in it. Before use, it must be sifted through a screen.

Soddy land can be used to make many earthen mixtures. In its pure form, it is used to grow citrus, dracaena, palm trees.

Peat land. For its preparation, peat is used, which consists of decaying plant remains. It must be harvested from marsh chernozem - raw peat of moss swamps, which is placed in low stacks up to 70 cm high.

Within 2-3 years, it is shoveled several times. The result is loose, humus-rich peat soil. Well suited for growing ferns, orchids, rhododendrons, as well as for sowing small seeds.

Compost land. It is obtained by composting in piles or pits animal waste and plant origin. They are moistened with slurry, limed and sprinkled with peat crumbs on top. Over the next 2 years, the mass is stirred and moistened several times.

Compost soil can be used when sowing letniki (except for asters, levkoy and begonias).

In a mixture with turf and grass, it can be replaced in the absence of humus soil.

heather land harvested in coniferous forests, where heather grows in great abundance. The thickness of heather soil usually does not exceed 3 cm. In summer, heather soil is raked, stacked, periodically moistened. A year later, it can be used to make earthen mixtures when growing azaleas, camellias and other indoor plants. Instead of heather soil, you can prepare a mixture: 4 parts peat mixture, 2 parts leaf and 1 part sand.

leaf humus. It is harvested in deciduous forests, raking half-ripe leaves into low heaps. During the summer, they need to be shoveled several times, while not forgetting to pour water. After 2 years, this land can be used in a mixture with turf. It is suitable for growing basic potted crops. It may well replace heather soil if used in a mixture with peat and sand. Particularly suitable for those cultivated plants for which greenhouse manure land is not suitable.

It should be noted that best leaves are linden, maple, as well as all fruit tree species. It is better not to use oak and willow leaves, as they contain tannins.

humus earth. It is obtained from rotted manure, which at the end of summer, together with the top layer of earth, is taken out of greenhouses and stacked. During the season, it is periodically mixed and moistened if necessary. After the final decomposition, it can be used to make mixtures during cultivation. potted plants.

The humus soil is rich in various nutrients, which is necessary for good and rapid growth plants.

Moss, like sand, it does not provide nutrients to plants. It is used dried and crushed, which is harvested in upland bogs. Before use, it must be steamed and dried to kill harmful insects. A layer of 1 cm is covered with drainage in pots. Moss is also tied around the base of palm trunks to promote the development of new adventitious roots.

It is good to mix crushed moss into the ground: it absorbs water well and retains it for a long time.

Charcoal. It is added to earth mixtures when growing indoor plants that do not tolerate excess moisture. Charcoal is used in earth mixtures crushed up to 1 cm in diameter when growing succulents and cacti. When breeding tuberous begonia and cyclamen, the cut parts of the tubers are sprinkled with coal powder.

Also, charcoal is used as an antiseptic and protects the roots from decay. Experienced flower growers prefer birch charcoal.

Sand does not provide plants with any nutrients, but when mixed with the soil, it provides better air access to the roots. Therefore, it is necessary in all earthen mixtures. Coarse-grained river sand is considered the best. For cuttings of azaleas, camellias and other plants that are difficult to root, fine white sand should be used.

Acidic and slightly acidic soils prefer:

Gfinalhemlesi for indoor plants.

On sale you can find the so-called "single garden mixture", special "universal earth mixtures" for different groups of plants, peat-mineral mixtures (they are best used for rooting cuttings and growing seedlings), artificial substrates. In the store, you can get advice from sellers, which mixture is suitable for what, in extreme cases, the packaging will indicate the main properties, such as acidity and approximate composition. Recently, in the instructions, lists of plants for which this earth mixture is intended are increasingly provided.

Sometimes the earth mixture is also composed for narrower groups of plants, for example; mixtures "Palm" or "Begonia". They can differ in both acidity and mechanical structure, the degree of "lightness", friability, as well as the presence of special additives such as pine bark, charcoal or bone meal. Some of the listed soil mixtures are very close in composition, but are produced by different manufacturers.

Specialized blends are better than generic blends because they better take into account individual requirements plants to the soil. However, some plants are completely undemanding to the soil, any "universal" earth mixture will suit them - this feature will be noted in the individual characteristics of the plants.

As a rule, earth mixtures are sold in packages packaged in 2 kg, somewhat less often - in 5 kg. Almost all are additionally fortified with nutrients.

Here is a list of the most common soil mixtures on sale:

Folk ways to improve soil fertility

With self-preparation of a room mixture to improve fertility, manure, peat, litter, compost, eggshells, sawdust, and yeast are added to the garden soil.

humus- 0.5 kg,
peat- 2 kg in sandy soils, 1 kg in clay soils.
dry bird droppings- 10 g,
mullein manure, from which the slurry is prepared at the rate of 1:20, insist a week. Before entering into the soil, it is diluted 2 times. Such a solution is often used to fertilize indoor plants with further care.
egg shell used to neutralize acidic soils.

Tip #2. Note! 10 g of ground shells will neutralize 10 liters of soil per pH scale unit.

Some flower growers use sleeping water to feed plants. Tea coffee, which improve the structure of the soil, evenly feed it, regulate acidity.

It is easier to use ready-made fertilizers that are commercially available.

Serious mistakes gardeners make when preparing the soil and caring for it

The use of greenhouse soil in indoor floriculture. It is undesirable to use the soil of their greenhouse for indoor plants. In conditions of high humidity, fungal diseases develop that are dangerous for potted crops.

Use of the substrate for planting immediately after heat treatment. At high temperatures, not only pests and diseases die, but also beneficial microorganisms. They can be restored with EM drugs, but this takes time, at least two weeks.

Specialized soil for indoor plants and flowers

GROUND FOR AZALEA. The mixture is light, acidic, moisture and breathable. In store options, the basis of the substrate should be high-moor peat. It is advisable to supplement the soil for azaleas with coniferous soil (1: 1).

GROUND FOR BROMELIAIDS. The mixture consists of high-moor peat, leafy soil and sand. IN purchased soil it is desirable to add tree bark or coal, sphagnum and coniferous soil.

GROUND FOR GARDENIA. The mixture consists of high-moor peat and sand. It is desirable to add leaf and coniferous soil (1: 1: 1) to the purchased soil.

GROUND FOR CACTUS AND SUCCULANTS. The mixture consists of sand with the addition of leafy soil and high-moor peat. Coarse-grained sand can be added to option stores.

GROUND FOR ORCHIDS. Different types of orchids need different nutrient substrates. For epiphytes, the soil mixture is prepared from the bark, sometimes sphagnum moss and charcoal are added (peat is not allowed!).

You can buy a certain fraction of the bark, boil it and plant an orchid without adding other components.

For other types of orchids, the substrate is prepared from peat, sphagnum, bark and coal.

SOIL FOR PALM. The mixture consists of high-moor peat, turf and leaf soil with sand. Palm trees prefer a loose and breathable substrate. With age, the proportion of sod land in the mixture is gradually increased in plants.

GROUND FOR FERN. You can prepare this version of the mixture: soil for succulents + leaf humus (or biohumus) in a ratio of 1: 1.

The best period for transplanting plants is from March to August. Autumn and winter are dormant periods, at which time plants are not recommended to be transplanted. It is undesirable to transplant plants during flowering or bud formation - it is necessary to wait for the end of flowering.

In hot weather, transplanting indoor plants is not allowed. Once the plant has been transplanted, it should be watered abundantly (except for cacti, they do not need to be watered), but at the same time watering should be minimized over the next week. Each container for houseplants should have holes in the bottom.

Through these openings, removal excess water, stagnation of which can lead to root rot. When transplanting any plant, it is necessary to organize drainage layer at the bottom of the bowl. This applies to all plants, even if it is indicated that drainage is not required. And finally, the last tip: transplant plants in good mood and with a smile, then your green pet will surely take root well and will feel great in a new home.

We usually use purchased mixes for flowers, which already have all the necessary components. However, finding the perfect balance of moisture capacity and breathability is quite difficult, even in ready-made substrates. Therefore, it is best to make your own recipe! How to make earth mix at home? Select ingredients, calculate proportions and cook nutrient soil for flowers, our article will help.

Ground mix base

Soil is the environment in which a plant lives naturally. Its composition and properties may change over time, depending on many factors. Therefore, some areas are empty, while horticultural crops actively grow and bear fruit on others. At home, we ourselves can compose the mixture of components we need, in which this or that plant will be comfortable. What is important to take into account?

The soil of indoor plants, like the land in the garden, has certain physical properties, the main of which are: breathability, moisture capacity and density. They are determined by the mineralogical composition and content of organic substances. You can adjust these parameters yourself! Transplantation and propagation of indoor flowers: tips and rules.

Three components are taken as the basis of the earth mixture for most indoor plants: earth, peat and sand. Peat performs the function of maintaining a given level of acidity, and sand allows you to loosen the soil for flowers, reducing its density. Read more at the link below. You can use additional components. So vermiculite and agroperlite normalize soil aeration, dolomite flour lowers the acidity of the soil, the bark of trees acts as a baking powder and protects against overheating, sapropel and biohumus saturate the mixture with microelements.

This information will be useful to you:
All components of ready-made substrates for indoor plants are described in this article. Types of peat, sand, agroperlite, vermiculite, biohumus, sapropel, bark, sphagnum, expanded clay, dolomite flour, charcoal, humic acids - how they affect soil properties and in what cases they are used.

What about the third component, the earth? Where can I get it and is it suitable garden soil for flowers?

It is used exclusively as a component, but not in its pure form! After all, no one can vouch for the properties and composition of the soil on the site. It is impossible to use land treated with herbicides containing "live" manure mixed with lime in indoor floriculture. It is desirable that nothing grows at this place for at least a year in order to avoid the presence of residues of pesticides and fertilizers. Clay heavy soils are not recommended, unless in minimal proportions. The harvested land must be cleaned of weeds and be sure to check for the absence of insects. To minimize the risks, you can sterilize it, how to do it, read on.

leaf ground

This is the soil obtained as a result of the decay of fallen leaves and tree species. Leaves are harvested in garden conditions, collecting in heaps up to one and a half meters and shoveling during the season. The heap is covered for the winter, and after two years, an earthy mixture saturated with organic matter is obtained. If you don't have a dacha, or time to "prepare" leaf humus, go to the forest. After all, soil rich in organic matter is under every tree. However, it is worth remembering that not all leafy waste is beneficial! For these purposes, hazel, linden, maple, acacia are more suitable, but the foliage of oak and chestnut contains too many tannins that can harm house plants.

sod land

There is such a thing as sod land, what it is? These are rotted sod particles, they are harvested in the spring, collecting earth on pastures. The top layer of turf up to 10 cm thick is removed with a shovel and laid in a shady place with “bricks” on top of each other, grass to grass, shoveled once a summer, and covered for the winter. After a year or two, the turf substrate will be ready for use. By the way, the soil on which perennial fodder crops, clover, legumes and cereals grow is most valued, the soil in such places is enriched with nitrogen.

coniferous land

It has a higher acidity, it is collected in spruce and pine forests. If collect upper layer soil, along with branches and needles, you can make a coniferous mixture, leaving it to “cure” during the season, sometimes shoveling, and covering it for the winter. The next year, the rotted remains of the needles will be ready for use. Similarly, they do with the earth collected in places where heather grows. Heather land is suitable for growing orchids, ferns, azaleas, camellias, rhododendrons.

Compost

For colors is natural fertilizer. Organics: types and applications. Compost soil is obtained from the decomposition of organic waste. These include cut grass, faded plants, food organic waste(shells, skins, vegetable and fruit residues), charcoal, clean ash, etc. Many garden plots have a compost pit in which this kind of waste is stored. They are periodically moistened with water and shoveled, closed for the winter, and as a result they receive valuable fertilizer. Compost pit made of "turf bricks".

humus earth

It is the result of the decomposition of manure, usually horse manure. Fresh manure is rarely used even in garden plots. At home, humus for flowers will be a useful additive, it is used in doses, adding to the finished soil mixture in small quantities.

Light, medium and heavy earth mixes

The soil of houseplants must meet specific requirements, which is why it is not advisable to plant all flowers in a "universal substrate". Some need a looser mixture, others develop better in nutritious soil. detailed information for each plant is on our website: find your flower using the search bar (on the side), or the Alphabetical Reference page (it contains not only official, but also folk names plants).

Below the site flowery-blog.ru gives approximate proportions of heavy, medium and light earth mixtures.

Light mix:(peat) -2 (garden soil) -1 (leaf or sod land) -0.5 (sand) -2 (additional components) - agroperlite, vermiculite, charcoal, fine expanded clay.

Light earthy mixtures will be appropriate for desert cacti, succulents with thick leaves (echeveria, aloe, crassula, etc.). It is also desirable to plant young cuttings in light soil, which still have an immature root system, increasing the saturation of the soil as they grow.

Medium Blend:(peat) -2 (garden soil) -1.5 (leaf, or sod land) -1 (compost, or humus) -0.5 (sand) -1.5 (additional components) - vermiculite, charcoal.

Medium soil mixes are the most versatile, suitable for growing ornamental leafy species, desert palms, some succulents, and flowering plants. If you are not sure what proportions will suit your plant, make a soil for medium density flowers.

Heavy mix:(peat) -3 (garden soil) -2 (leaf, or sod land) -1.5 (sand) -1 (compost, or humus) -1 (additional components) - tree bark, pine needles, sphagnum moss, woody coal, biohumus (instead of compost humus).

Heavy earth mixtures are suitable for tropical species palms, lianas, ferns, azaleas, begonias, fuchsias, as well as tropical forest cacti. Usually large tub plants, plants with a weighty root system, thick roots are planted in denser soil.

* If instead of pure peat you use a ready-made peat mixture, check the presence of microelements in it. Usually ready mixes already contain fertilizers, so the use of additional dressings (compost, humus, humus) is not required.

Soil disinfection

Do-it-yourself flower soil often requires disinfection. Purchased components do not need to be processed, while soil brought from a garden plot or from a forest may contain microorganisms, bacteria, or small insects. Subsequently, such "uninvited guests" can seriously harm the plant! This is especially true if you have large volumes of soil, because a small handful of earth can be sorted out manually. What is soil disinfection?

It is possible to treat the garden soil for bacteria and fungus with the help of the Fitosporin preparation, which is useful for plants, it destroys pathogenic microflora, and the beneficial microorganisms contained in it create an environment favorable for plants. Similar biological products include "Gamair" and "Alarin".

Attention!
It is not necessary to treat the land brought from the site with insecticides and acaricides; for flowers, such soil will not be the most comfortable environment.

Thermal processing methods include steaming in the oven and freezing on the balcony. If you stand the soil all winter on the balcony, it will freeze and be ready for use in the spring. However, in this case, there is a high risk that weed seeds will remain in it, and some pests may also “overwinter”.

The second method is perhaps more reliable, but it also has its drawbacks. The substrate must be laid out on a baking sheet, moistened with a sprayer and kept in the oven at minimum temperature 120 degrees for about an hour, stirring regularly. When heated, all bacteria and microorganisms, both harmful and beneficial, are destroyed, so that the earth loses some of its usefulness.

Now you also know how to prepare nutrient soil for flowers. Make proportions based on the requirements of plants, and they will thank you with growth and flowering.

If you have any questions, be sure to ask them in the comments. ✿ If you liked the article, share it on social networks.

Land for indoor flowers needs a special one so that it does not dry out quickly or, conversely, does not turn into a clay lump. This is what we will talk about today in continuation of our topic about home cultivation plants.

Before heading to the garden center for shopping, it's worth brushing up on your knowledge of home flowers:

How to correctly assess the conditions in the room where you plan to put flower pots;
How to choose healthy plants;
What house flowers are ideal for your conditions.
Why you can not transplant a newly acquired plant.
Choosing pots for plants.

But back to "our sheep" - what kind of soil for indoor plants is best.
First, I’ll tell you which soil is completely unsuitable for these purposes: soil taken from a flower bed or from a garden. Loose and fertile, in a pot it tends to become stone and is completely unsuitable for the home.

For planting indoor plants you need special composition. You can cook them yourself or buy them ready-made in the store.

It is worth talking about ready-made planting mixtures (substrates), usually used for growing home flowers, in more detail.

Why ready-made soil mixes are not suitable for indoor plants

Ready-made substrates that go on sale under the proud name "Soil Mix" actually have nothing to do with the soil. They consist mainly of red (high) or black (lowland) peat with the addition of mineral fertilizers and other components (coconut fiber, vermiculite, charcoal, etc.), depending on which plants they are intended for.

What the manufacturer usually reports in small print somewhere at the bottom of the package, heading this revelation - "Composition of the mixture."

Have you ever read it?

Most of the failures in growing indoor flowers are due to the use of ready-made (read: peat) substrates.

There is no doubt that it is very convenient to use ready-made planting soils. No need to look for different types of soil, no need to harvest them for future use and store them in the house, occupying the space necessary for life. Compositions based on peat are light, absorb water well. On sale you can find such a hodgepodge for all types of plants. And this would be the solution to the problem for most fans, if not for one but ...

But the peat composition is unstable, it dries quickly. All peat assorted should be kept constantly wet - when dry, they hardly absorb moisture. But most of your green pets require the earth to dry out between waterings. And some of them do not tolerate excess moisture at all.

That is why a flower in such a soil substrate is easy to fill.

IN peat compositions fertilizer reaches the root system much faster than in earth, but when watering it is easily washed out. Therefore, a few weeks after transplanting, you will have to feed the plant. Do you know that the dose of fertilizer when feeding is not always easy to determine? At the same time, it is easy to “overfeed” your pet or, conversely, make him “starve”!

Using ready-made peat-based substrates, you create additional difficulties for yourself.

The exception is compositions with the addition of biohumus. Humus (chernozem) is a soil rich in organic matter. Such formulations are less common and usually more expensive than peat-based substrates.

We conclude:

Land for indoor flowers should be prepared with your own hands.

Don't be scared, it's not difficult at all.

A little information about various types soil will help you figure it out.

Characteristics of garden land

It is quite porous and elastic. It can be found in the meadow closest to your home. It is enough to take a good sod (a layer of soil with grass roots, 15-20 cm deep), chop it and sift it with a sieve. Plant residues can be discarded, and what remains will be sod land.

Deciduous (leafy)

This is a light, loose and quite nutritious soil, which is formed from the annual decay of foliage and branches in a grove, in a forest or in a planting. Finding leafy soil is easiest in places with densely growing deciduous trees, in which the foliage is not removed, but remains on the surface and rots. Remove the top layer of freshly fallen leaves and collect the soil that is under it, but no deeper than 10-15 cm, with the remnants of well-rotted last year's foliage.

humus
Obtained from rotted manure. It is light, fluffy and very rich in nutrients. In the village, finding humus soil is quite easy. In the city, you can get it in greenhouses.
In its pure form, sand is used for cuttings.

It is added to all mixtures in an amount of 10-20 percent.

The best is coarse-grained river or lake sand.

We prepare the ground for indoor flowers at home

Recipe one:

Such a mixture is called heavy. This soil composition is suitable for indoor plants with thick coarse roots: dracaena, monstera, large trees.

Recipe two:

This mixture is called medium. It is suitable for plants with roots of medium thickness: aspidistra, large spathiphyllums, anthuriums, small shrubs.

Recipe three:

This mixture is called light. It is suitable for species with fine delicate roots and all herbaceous species.

Recipe Four - universal soil for indoor plants:

Useful if you could not find soddy and humus soil.

In the literature for flower growers there are complex recipes with the addition of various exotic components. For example: coconut fiber, sphagnum moss, brick or marble chips, perlite, etc. It is believed that some types of flowers grow better with such additives.

But the truth is that plants are very flexible and easily adapt to other types of soil mixtures as long as they contain enough nutrients. Therefore, do not complicate your life by looking for rare soil additives. The above recipes will suit almost all your green pets.

So, the sixth secret in growing indoor plants

To avoid difficulties in caring for house plants, the ground for indoor flowers must be prepared by hand according to one of the above recipes.

Before anyone who starts transplanting indoor plants, first of all, the question arises: buy ready-made soil in the store or prepare it yourself.

Purchased mix is fast. Soils, universal or specially formulated for individual crops, are made from peat with the addition of macro- and microelements. An "average" set of fertilizers, more or less meeting the needs of most crops, is part of universal soils- they are convenient if on your windowsill there are “a pair of every creature”. If the collection is dominated by representatives of one or more species or families, give preference to special soils that are balanced taking into account the characteristics of these plants.

On the one hand, peat soil seems to be the easiest to use: bought, poured, planted - and you don’t need to understand anything. But it is inexperienced growers who should think carefully before making such a choice. Peat is a very moisture-intensive material. When it dries, it loses volume (“shrinks”) and lags behind the walls of the pot.

In addition, dry peat is poorly wetted: water rolls over its surface without being absorbed. Late watering will have no effect until you can soak it properly. Is it worth explaining how plants suffer in this case? Growing plants in such a substrate is the lot of disciplined owners who do everything on time and correctly.

An alternative is the preparation of earthen mixtures with your own hands. Such a land “forgives” some care mistakes, since its characteristics are more reminiscent of natural soils. If you have already experienced failures in growing indoor plants, try to make substrates for them from improvised materials - perhaps this will be better.

Main Components

Sod land. According to all the rules, it takes two years to prepare such land. In spring or early summer, sod is cut in forb meadows and fields, stacked in a pile and layered with manure. Before use, the earth is sifted and stored in closed plastic bags. In recipes for earthen mixtures for indoor plants, turfy soil can be replaced with well-cultivated garden soil.

Leaf land. It is formed from semi-decomposed leaves of various tree species (preferably apple, ash, linden). After autumn leaf fall, the leaves of trees are harvested, with the exception of oak, willow, poplar, chestnut, and composted with the addition of slaked lime.

Peat. For potted plants, you can use factory-packaged peat - it is usually ready for use. Freshly harvested peat, which is brought to the sites by machines, must be stored until it acquires softness, flowability and a uniform structure. Only well decomposed, weathered peat is suitable for substrates.

Humus. You can cook it yourself from fresh manure (horse, cow). It is put in a wooden box or a pile, covered with a dark film and allowed to rot for two years, after which it is sieved. High-quality humus should be loose, homogeneous - without lumps and a characteristic strong odor.

Sand. Well draining and permeable material. Provides air access to plant roots. Required in almost all mixtures. It is recommended to use well-washed river sand.

Bark conifers. Shredded bark of coniferous species (pine, larch). Removed from dead trees, then boiled in water and crushed. Used for growing orchids, ferns, epiphytic plants.

Coniferous land. Lower layer of coniferous forest litter (pine or fir). You can cook it yourself on a garden plot by composting coniferous litter in a separate container or a wooden box, layering it after 15-20 cm with a mixture of peat and sand.

Sphagnum. It has aseptic properties, loosens the soil and retains moisture. Harvested on upland or transitional swamps in early autumn and dried outside the living quarters. You can buy dry sphagnum at garden centers.

Fern roots. In late autumn, they are sheared from the rhizomes of ferns (aspidium, bracken, osmund, polypodium). Used for planting orchids.

Charcoal. Birch or aspen charcoal can be collected in an extinct fire. Grilled charcoal will work too. It is crushed into pieces about a centimeter and mixed in a small amount with soil mixtures. Promotes friability and water permeability of the soil, prevents acidification of the earth.

Additional componentsHorn meal, shavings, horn-hoof meal. Valuable slow acting phosphate fertilizer. It can be found on sale in flower shops and garden centers. It is added to earth mixtures at the rate of 1 part per 30 parts of earth.

Wood ash. Contains a lot of potassium, normalizes the acidity of the soil. Hardwood stove ash (sometimes sold at garden centers) is suitable as a soil additive. Added at the rate of 1 part per 50 parts of land.

The land in which indoor plants grow must fully meet the needs of plants and meet their botanical requirements. Is it so simple, not knowing the tastes of indoor flowers, not adhering to the laws of soil science, to prepare nutritious and suitable soil?

Unfortunately, in our stores, soils are also sold prepared far from non-specialists. By trusting them with our green pets, we risk even more. Therefore, having understood just a few, but rather significant aspects of soil science, we can easily create an excellent soil mixture that satisfies indoor green inhabitants.

Indoor plants, according to your preferences, can be divided into three categories:

Preferring light soils. The basis of such soil is peat with the addition of hardwood, humus and sand. The ratio, as a rule, is made approximate and can be expressed as 3:1:1:1. This mixture is preferred by plants with a shallow root system. Aloe, cyclamens, begonias, gloxinia will feel great in such soils. Such soil is prepared for grafting and sowing seeds;
Earth mixes of medium gravity are made up of soddy, humus, peat soil and sand in a ratio of 2:2:1:1. Such soils are preferred by most indoor plants;
Heavy soil mixes prefer plants with a large root system. They include humus, soddy soil and fairly coarse sand. The proportion of such a mixture is expressed as 1: 5: 1. Dracaena, clivia, palm trees will feel great in such a mixture.

Knowing the approximate ratios, you can easily prepare the necessary soil mixture.

The preparation of components for the soil mixture can occur in several ways:

On one's own. To do this, you need to know exactly where the peatlands closest to you are located, have access to leafy soil, humus and coarse sand;
Compound earth mixtures can be purchased at specialized stores, and you can prepare soil from them yourself;
You can buy in the store, what is not so easily available, such as peat, and take all the rest from the fields and gardens.

For residents of both villages and major cities quite accessible:

sod land. A layer of soil from meadows, pastures and uncultivated lawns;
leaf ground. The soil of a deciduous forest, or garden, created in the process of many years of decay of foliage;
Humus. Animal manure that has decayed over several years;
Compost. Soil obtained by many years of over-ripening of compostable constituents. IN compost heap or pit plant residues, kitchen waste, animal manure and bird droppings are laid. In terms of nutritional value, compost is equal to humus;
coniferous land. Soil under a layer of needles in pine forests. It has a slightly acidic reaction and is very suitable for growing azaleas, violets, heather plants;
Sand. It improves soil aeration and water permeability;

When preparing an earth mixture, it is necessary to achieve an optimal soil structure for plants. To make sure that the preparation is correct, you need to take a handful of soil and squeeze it in your palm, after opening the soil should crumble. If this does not happen, it is unnecessarily heavy. If crumbles very quickly unnecessarily sandy.

There is no need to carry out any disinfection work with the soil. After all, the soil is also a living organism with its inherent microflora. Destruction of microflora in the best way affect indoor flowers.

By adhering to these rules, you can prepare an excellent earthen mixture for indoor plants with your own hands. In terms of quality, it will not be inferior to soils prepared by professionals.

First of all, I would like to draw your attention to the fact that great importance for the normal development of a houseplant, has a soil mixture reaction (Ph). Of course, the vast majority of indoor plants (and garden flowers also), grows well on neutral or slightly alkaline soils. But some of them need acidic or, on the contrary, alkaline soil mixtures. For example, a slightly acidic earthen substrate is preferred: begonia, pelargonium, cyclamen, fuchsia, fern, chrysanthemum. And azalea, camellia, hydrangea love acidic soils. Grow on alkaline: cineraria, asparagus, carnation, lily. In its purest form, acidic soils include: peat, loam, clay-turf. Soddy land, which is taken on black soil, is most often slightly alkaline or neutral.

And now a little more about each component of the soil mixture for indoor plants.

Peat

Peat - is the basis of almost all known soil mixtures. And not one primer for flowers sold in a store is complete without it. Peat is distinguished between lowland high-moor and transitional. High-moor peat is acidic, low-moor peat is slightly acidic. Peat improves the quality of soil mixtures very well, making them light and loose. In peat land, it develops very well root system plants. In peat, seeds are germinated and cuttings are rooted. It is clear that you will not go to the swamp with a shovel to harvest peat. It's useless. Bulk peat in stores. But when buying it, you MUST pay attention to its “origin”. If you plan to prepare the land for houseplants that love "acid", take a riding one, for the rest - a lowland one.