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Where can a compost pit be placed? Compost pit with your own hands. Choosing a place for building

Any owner suburban area is faced with the need to fertilize his garden and vegetable garden. To do this, you can use chemical fertilizers, or you can use natural ones. The optimal solution in this case, it becomes the use of a compost pit. Another advantage of creating garden composter is a concern for the environment, since all organic waste can be turned into useful compost, and not taken to a landfill.

Where to set up a compost heap

First of all, you should take care of cleanliness drinking water, therefore, the well or well should be removed at a distance of about 25 m from the heap and preferably be higher (if there is a slope in the area).

Of course, the composter can smell bad, so it is important to place it further from the kitchen, gazebo or porch (your own and your neighbors), given the most common wind direction. Ideal position compost pit closer to the garden or garden in the shade of trees, while providing easy access to it for garden wheelbarrow or an aisle with a trash can.

Compost can significantly improve the soil, regardless of its type. If it is clayey, it will become more crumbly, but if it is sandy, it will be better to retain moisture. But the price for it is quite high, there will also be costs for the delivery of compost to the site, so people began to make compost pits themselves to fertilize the soil, but at the same time save money. Every home has a lot of organic waste, so why throw them away if you can equip a hole, and this waste will benefit the soil. In the article, we will consider how to make a compost pit with your own hands in the country and how to properly operate it.

• The size of the pit should be made based on the approximate amount of garbage that can accumulate in a year, and then it will rot for at least one year.
• The process of removing humus and mixing it should not be difficult, so the height of the walls has its limitations.
• The pit can be made both open and closed, one or two sections.

• Weeds and their seeds should not get into the compost.
• Worms should freely penetrate the contents of the compost pit.
• It is necessary to equip a convenient approach so that there are no difficulties with the removal of humus.
• You can put iron on the bottom, which will also benefit the compost over time.
• The smell from the closed compost pit should not seep out.
• The compost pit should not be located in direct sunlight.

Compost pit technology

How to make a simple compost pit

The device of a compost pit depends on its future purpose, if it is equipped simply for the release of organic waste, then it can be done according to the simplest scheme.

• A hole is dug about 40-60 cm deep and 60-70 cm wide;
• a layer of dry grass, straw is laid on the bottom;
• after each ejection of waste, a layer of grass is again laid on the garbage. This is necessary so that the flies do not get divorced, and there is no unpleasant smell;
• What kind of hole should be made somewhere in a remote part of the site, but not near the neighbors' fences.

Do-it-yourself concreted compost pit

• This is a more labor intensive building. It consists of two equal compartments, one of which is intended for old compost, and the second is used for regular replenishment. This design has a lid that lifts up when necessary to collect fertilizer or discard waste.
• In order for the compost to turn out to be of high quality, it is better not to use weeds for its preparation, they can leave behind harmful seeds in the soil.
• It is necessary to provide access to the closed earthworm composter, otherwise the compost will take much longer to mature.
• In addition, it must be equipped in such a way that it looks like decoration on the site, has a neat appearance. But at the same time, ventilation must be present, so plant climbing plants with dense foliage is not recommended.

Stages of work

The process of building such a compost pit is quite laborious.

• Needs to be completely leveled and removed. upper layer soil;
• then a hole breaks out, about 60-80 cm deep. The optimal length is 3m, and the width is 2m;
• then the formwork is built, and the walls are poured cement mortar or concrete, the thickness of which should be about ten centimeters.

Tip: for proper construction compost pit closed type it is necessary to prepare a concrete solution, observing all the rules. It seems that there is nothing complicated in this, but in practice it often turns out the opposite. So that there are no problems, and then you do not have to spend a lot of time correcting errors, it is better to do everything right right away.

A concrete compost pit will have everything desired properties for timely processing of compost in the event that the proportions of all the components from which concrete is made for its base are exactly observed.

To create a solution, you will need:

• river sand,
• Gravel,
• Cement,
• Water.

Sequencing:

• first, gravel should be poured into a twenty-liter bucket and shaken very well;
• after that, water is slowly added using a measuring container. If this bucket contains ten liters of water, then the gravel component is 50%, and a ratio of two to one is required. This means that another 10 liters of river sand should be added to a twenty-liter bucket of gravel;

• such a solution should contain as little water as possible in order to avoid the appearance of bubbles in the future. If the composition has a high water content, then after it dries, a large number of voids form.

Tip: one more important point in preparing the mixture for the pit is that you need to mix the solution very carefully. This is probably even more important than the exact observance of all proportions, so it is recommended to do this with a concrete mixer, and not manually.

A closed-type compost pit can have one section, but it is better to immediately make it with a two-section one. In the second case, it is more convenient to use, especially if it is decided not to use drugs to increase the rate of compost maturation.

If the process of decay will take place naturally, it will take approximately two years. Then it is very convenient to use each section separately. The first year you can use one, and when the second year comes, throw away waste in the second part. As long as one compost reaches the desired state, another is used.

Do-it-yourself high compost heap construction

A wooden compost heap is easy to build even without experience in construction. At the same time, it can be made in such a way that it will not interfere with either the summer residents themselves or their neighbors.

• Racks should be installed at the corners of the pit. The base for them is made of pipes, and the part that is above the ground can be made of a bar with a cross section of 10 cm;
• One edge of each bar is sharpened to fit the pipes. It is first recommended to soak all the wooden parts of the structure in a special solution so that they do not succumb to the processes of decomposition and decay;
• Next, the bars are driven into the cut pipes and transverse boards are stuffed onto their above-ground part, which will serve as the walls of the pit;

• fixing boards is best done with self-tapping screws or metal corners, which will provide a more reliable grip;
• finished walls are covered with paint, preferably acrylic.

Of the nuances in this work, it is necessary to take into account:

• the diameter of the pipes must fit the size of the bars;
• the height of the walls usually does not exceed a meter, this is due to the fact that large and tall structures ultimately turn out to be inconvenient to use, as it makes it difficult to dig and extract compost;
• the simplest version of a removable cover is a regular sheet of plywood that is attached to back wall loop designs. The compost matures best when the lid is closed, but you still need to open it occasionally to ventilate the fertilizer.

What is suitable for composting and what cannot be put in a pit

So that the fertilizer can ripen in time and at the same time not lose its beneficial features for soil, you should know exactly what is suitable for a compost pit.

You can put:

• raw vegetables, fruits, berries, cereals, straw, grass, hay, ash, foliage, needles, bark, twigs, plant roots, sawdust, shredded paper, herbivore manure.

You cannot put:

• bones, carnivorous pet dung, potato and tomato leaves, any greens that have been treated with pesticides, weed seeds, any synthetic waste, and leaves from infected plants.

Proper compost bin

In order for compost to form successfully, it needs certain conditions:

• moisture;
• warm;
• oxygen.

To create a greenhouse effect, the still unripe compost must be watered (especially in hot and dry summers), and if necessary, covered with a film. For a good reaction, oxygen is also needed, its access is provided by loosening the waste with a pitchfork.

If it is not possible to equip a pit, water it, and so on, then you can simply put organic waste in one place, where compost will form over time. It is certainly not the most The best way from the point of view of aesthetics, but it has a right to exist.

• In order for such a heap to be equal in functionality to a compost pit, special preparations must be added to it.
• You will also need to periodically cover with dark material to speed up the compost ripening process. In a covered pit, compost will be processed within 3-4 months, but if you keep it open, the process will take about six months to a year.
• It is impossible to put polyethylene at the base of the heap, which will block the free access of water and oxygen. If the ground under the compost is covered with synthetic material, then the moisture from the heap will evaporate very quickly, but it will not be able to rise from the ground.
• When laying out the contents for the compost in a pile, it is recommended, if possible, to alternate manure, grass, waste and earth. During the intense heat, you need to water the heap in order to right amount moisture and composting processes were not disturbed.
• It is convenient to make two piles side by side or one large one, but on two sides, this is a simplified version of a two-section box. When the compost is ready on one side and can be regularly laid out on beds, waste is thrown out on the other side of the pile.
• When the compost pile reaches a size of about one meter in height, it is advisable to use fertilizers. To do this, several deep holes are made and the solution is poured into them. In the warm season, Californian worms can be added to replace them.

The correct location of the compost pit

Before you equip a compost pit in the country, you need to choose the right site for it:

• From sources of drinking water (wells, wells, etc.), the pit should be located at a distance of at least twenty-five meters;
• If the site is located on a slope, then the pit is equipped below the source of drinking water, this is necessary so that the rotting runoff through the soil could not get into clean water;
• It is necessary to take into account the most frequent direction of the wind in order not to cause significant inconvenience to the neighbors, especially if the pit is not covered with a lid and exudes strong unpleasant odors;
• There should always be free access to the pit, which will provide convenient removal of garbage using buckets or removal of humus using a wheelbarrow.

• The compost pit is made as far away from residential buildings. It should be in partial shade, since under the sun's rays all processes occurring in it will slow down.
• The site for the location of such a pit must be flat.
• Do not allow water to stagnate in it - this will interfere with the access of oxygen.

Plastic compost bins

• This method is good for those who can allocate funds for its purchase and want the appearance of their site to be more presentable. It installs absolutely anywhere. But you will have to take into account the presence of an unpleasant odor, because you will need to regularly open the lid to ventilate the contents of the container.
• The constant access of oxygen to the compost is provided by special holes, which are also necessary so that excess moisture does not stagnate.
• Feature of use plastic container For compost heap is that it is necessary to use special preparations to speed up the composting process. Earthworms can provide a replacement for drugs if they are specially planted in this container.

To save money and benefit the yard, a compost pit is a great fertilizer solution. It is very simple to equip and operate it, you just need to know a few rules. But at the same time, you will always have ready-made fertilizer for the soil on the site.

Photo of a compost pit

If you have a decent land plot, from time to time it still has to be fertilized. So why not use high-quality compost for these purposes? No, we do not offer you to buy it with delivery to household plot. This pleasure is not cheap. Much easier to do it yourself useful fertilizer on your own land. All the conditions for this already exist - it remains to establish the system. You can combine business with pleasure: clean the site from unnecessary waste and produce selected compost. Let's find out how you can build a compost pit with your own hands and try to avoid mistakes.

What are the benefits of a compost pit?

On a piece of land, compost pits are used to store waste, surplus products. Subsequently, they decompose and turn into fertilizer quite High Quality. If at the beginning of the season you build a compost pit at your favorite dacha with your own hands, already in the fall you will have ready-made, incredibly useful fertilizer. The average compost "ripening" time is three months. Of course, provided that the composter is made correctly, and due attention was paid to the pit. Otherwise, the decomposition process may take 1-2 years.

Compost pit building codes

To build a good secure home need a thoughtful design. The requirements for a compost pit are not so severe, but they are also there. To speed up the ripening process of fertilizers, try to ensure a regular supply of heat, oxygen and moisture. Follow these rules:

• The pile should rise above the ground, not be level with it or be below the ground. This is really important, because in this case the pile warms up much better, it is much more convenient to water and loosen it. We advise you to go deep by 45-50 cm, but leave barriers about a meter. An ideal do-it-yourself compost pit has a width of 1.5 meters, a length of 2 meters.
• Keep in mind that if there is at least one water source on the territory, it must be located 25 meters or more from the compost pit. If the site has a certain slope, the pit is always built below the source. Otherwise, the water in it will cease to be drinkable.
• The compost pit in the country is located at some distance from the dwelling or gazebo. You don't want to greet the morning with bad smell or fry kebabs in the yard, inhaling completely different “aromas”?
• It's great if there is some kind of big tree on the site. For compost, it is always recommended to choose a place that is in partial shade. This will protect the pit from drying out quickly.
• You should choose the size of the pit with your own hands, taking into account the volumes of garbage that are in the country, and are planned to be brought in in the next two years.
• Fences for a compost pit according to Finnish technology should have a height sufficient for convenient loosening and collection of compost.

Never make the bottom of slate, do not cover it with rubber or metal. These materials prevent the soil from rising up, but the compost will dry out regularly. The bottom is made of earth, the walls are covered with any of available materials.

Diagram of a ventilated compost bin

What is allowed to be thrown into the compost pit, and what is prohibited?

Building a composter with your own hands is half the battle. To get really high-quality fertilizer, you need to know what can not be put in the pit, and what can be.

To achieve maximum efficiency, you can safely lay the following types of waste:

• Bark and leaves, chopped branches.
• Grass, dried weeds.
• Dung that has long overgrown, droppings of birds and other domestic animals.
• Any fruits and vegetables, as well as their cleaning.
• The rest of the tea.
• Small sawdust, shavings, straw.
• The ash that remains after burning wood.

Any video about the construction and further use of such structures will confirm that ash can be put into the compost pit, and even paper in any form: cardboard, napkins. When laying fresh grass, especially if we are talking about a sufficiently thick layer, the decomposition process stretches for a year. To speed it up, we advise you to sprinkle the grass with soil.

Compost filling scheme

Never mortgage:

1. Bones and very thick branches. They rot long enough.
2. inorganic products. In particular, these include rubber and polyethylene, metal and plastic, synthetics.
3. Tops of tomatoes, because it is often infected with late blight.
4. Plants that have previously been treated with chemicals.

Now you know for sure that you can’t put it in a compost pit under any pretext.

Popular ways to create

At a do-it-yourself compost pit, all manufacturing options can be divided into several types. Let's list them.

Regular waste pile

It is not difficult to prepare such a heap option. You only need to choose the most suitable place to place the compost heap. Then gradually stack the waste. If possible, they are laid in layers. For example, food waste can be alternated with straw, green grass and manure.

As soon as the height reaches a meter, you will need to make 3-4 recesses and pour compost liquid inside. It significantly speeds up the process, so the first compost will be ready in three months.

The option described above is one of the most quick ways getting compost at minimal cost.

All you need to create a compost heap is a wheelbarrow and a shovel.

classic pit

One of the manufacturing options is that you dig a small depression in the ground in a square shape. You cover your version of the pit with branches and hay at the bottom, as well as bark. Next, put food, plant waste. The temperature inside will not be very high, so it is recommended to immediately cover with foil.

Please note that this option is the least successful of all. Firstly, such a pit warms up much worse. Secondly, the temperature in it is not always high. But it has a small area and is easy to arrange.

classic compost pit

Building a compost bin out of wood

How to make a compost pit so that the design is inexpensive and practical? To do this, you can use bars, sheets of metal with slate. The process of making a hole is as follows:

• You remove the top layer about 35-40 centimeters thick.
• Next, drive in pegs around the perimeter.
• A fence will need to be installed around the hole. You can make it from pallets, use wood blocks, boards and shields. It is allowed to use other materials: flat and wavy type slate, polycarbonate, metal sheets.
• The height of the fence is not more than one meter. Otherwise, even with a large growth, it will be inconvenient for you to mix the compost.
• The structure is covered with plywood or film. Compost warms up very well, so this design considered optimal in all areas.

Very original version execution is the construction of a wooden box. The lower edges of the structure do not reach the surface by 25-30 centimeters. Boards and other materials are also attached at a certain distance from the ground. At the bottom, the compost matures several times faster, as it is laid much earlier. Ready fertilizer is taken from below, the pile gradually falls down. The main plus is that there is no need to loosen the pile, because you will always have the opportunity to get the right amount of compost.

Compost bin with sliding wall

concrete pit

Perhaps the most reliable and durable option that will serve you for decades. The arrangement of the building is as follows. After choosing a suitable building site (about 2 by 3 meters), you will need to choose a soil of about 60-80 cm. Next, you build formwork 10 cm thick around the perimeter, mix the concrete solution and pour it into the formwork. As soon as the solution hardens, the formwork must be removed. Lay the waste in layers one by one, cover the top wooden shields or film.

Despite the fact that this method is one of the most expensive, it definitely has no equal in terms of efficiency. It is advisable to immediately divide the compost structure into two sections. In one of them you will lay the waste of this season, in the other the compost from last year will decompose.

A compost pit can also be replaced by an ordinary large barrel. However, in this case you will definitely need the use of special preparations or the addition of worms.

How to use the pit?

In conclusion, a few tips for those who already know how to make a compost pit with their own hands. It is equally important to use it wisely throughout the season.

1. From time to time loosen the compost with a pitchfork. This will help oxygen get inside, and waste - to mix with each other.
2. Water the pile from time to time to maintain proper moisture levels.
3. Cover the contents with a dark film to create a greenhouse effect. When the heap is covered, the compost in it can mature even in 3-4 months.
4. Plant earthworms in the prepared compost. They perfectly loosen the pile, recycle it.

There are more than enough videos and articles on the Internet on the topic of building compost pits. All of them agree that, with proper construction, a compost pit can provide the owners of the site with very useful and almost free fertilizer.

A good harvest can only be harvested from crops grown on fertilized land. All garden lovers are concerned about fertilizer and its composition. The most popular and environmentally friendly fertilizer is considered to be compost.

Buy it and deliver it will cost a pretty penny. There is always enough waste of organic origin on the site - these are weeds after weeding, mowed excess grass, waste products of vital activity, food leftovers, etc.

Everyone can make a compost pit with their own hands.

What kind of waste can be used for compost

Emitting carbon

Nitrogen-producing

• Fruits, berries and vegetables
• tea leftover coffee
• Leftover products
• egg shell
• Feces of herbivores
• Human waste, provided that they are not with anaerobic bacteria.
• Earth

Not suitable for compost

Tops from potatoes and tomatoes decompose for 5 years.

Cooking a hole

How to choose a place for a compost pit

In most cases, a compost pit is organized behind outbuildings or in a place where the site is not used for one reason or another.

You should also take into account

• The compost pit exudes an unpleasant odor
• Free access to future fertilizer
• Flat surface, slight slope allowed
• Mounted above ground level.
• At least 25 meters to the water source
• Shady place. Direct Sun rays slow down the decay process.
• You can not organize a compost heap close to trees. May perish

Compost needs to be taken care of. Water, loosen, for this reason best parameters buildings 0.5 m deep and walls up to a meter high.

Peculiarities

The area of ​​the pit is ideally 1.5 * 2 m, but this is not a standard, it all depends on the amount of waste in 2 years, such a period is required for the decay process. The compost heap is divided into two sections, in the first compartment lies finished product, in the second waste is laid.

The pit is equipped with a removable cover.

The small dimensions of the pit can lead to a poor rotting process and a low temperature of the compost, which will not be enough to kill spores and pathogenic microflora.

Attention!

The bottom of the structure is not covered with anything. The moisture must come from the ground. Otherwise, everything will dry up.

Construction types

1. The simplest pit without much investment

Dig a pit half a meter deep and along the perimeter 1.5 * 2 m. Waste is folded, covered with a film, a load is placed on the film along the edges. After each bookmark, sprinkle a bunch of grass.

Simple but not practical. Care is difficult. Warming up is long, the cooking time of the product increases.

1. Pit with two sections

Materials for the manufacture of partitions: wood, slate, brick, plastic, metal, etc.
The size of the pit is 1.5 * 2 or 2 * 3 m. It deepens from 0.5 m to 0.8 m.

Along the perimeter in the corners, pillars are installed from any durable material that is not subject to decay, on which the walls rest. With the calculation of the possible load on them. A partition is made in the center.

Do not forget about ventilation, oxygen is necessary for bacteria to work productively.

1. Single section pile

This pit is constructed in the same way as a two-section one. The recess is 0.5 m, the height of the fence is up to a meter, the width and length are 1.5 * 2 m. Holes are made in one or two walls in order to get the finished product from the bottom.

1. concrete structures

A concrete box is made for a very long time.

Instruction

• Dig a trench with a depth of 0.7-0.8 m of the required perimeter.
• Make supporting fasteners and walls
• Pouring ready-mixed concrete
• Let it harden
• Remove formwork
• Remove excess soil from the bottom
• You can cover with a film, a shield made of wood.

1. plastic container

These designs are sold ready-made with ventilation and a lid.

The volume of products is from 400 to 1000l. Price 2,000 - 10,000 tons. Rub.

It shrinks like the rest at a depth of 0.5 m.

Filling the hole

Before laying, dig the bottom and remove weeds. This must be done for good circulation of moisture and access of microorganisms.

Alternate layers: wet, then dry. The ratio is 3 to 1. 3 - brown waste, releasing carbon, 1 green, releasing nitrogen.

To not allow large waste(everything breaks, crumbles, tears)

Humidify and close the lid.

• Don't forget to moisturize
• Periodically pierce, loosen
• If you cover with a film, then black is better, the processing time is reduced
• Good to add earthworms
• Sometimes the compost is mixed.

Additives that speed up the process

• Horse manure (rotted)
• Chamomile, yarrow, valerian
• Activators for compost pits
• Dry litter
• Mineral fertilizers

The material for the structure should be coated with an anti-corrosion coating if it is metal and the wood should be treated with impregnation, then painted acrylic paint in a couple of layers. In this design, the design will last much longer.

All types of holes

• Plain pile under the film
• Slate compost pit
• Concrete structure
• Metal sheet compost bin
• Compost pit made of wood (it is convenient to use pallets)
• Finished plastic product.

At proper organization and care, you will get the best environmentally friendly pure fertilizer for the garden.

Before you start doing in the country do-it-yourself compost pit, it is worth considering, but why, in fact, do we need it?
The main functions of such a structure are the disposal of household organic waste, as well as the production of fertilizer for the garden and garden, unless of course you intend to simply plant green manure on your site to fertilize the soil.

Rules for the arrangement and operation of a compost pit

When choosing a place where we would like to make a composter, several very important points should be considered:

1. The distance to the source of drinking water: a well, a well, a stream, a reservoir should be at least 25 - 30 m.
2. Also, if the site has a slope, the pit should be located below the well. Such precautions are necessary so that the runoff of decaying waste cannot enter the drinking water.
3. It would not hurt to take into account the wind rose, so as not to annoy the neighbors too much.

In addition, I want to clarify that in open sunny areas, the contents of the pit can overheat greatly, then the composting process stops, so it is advisable to shade the structure with trees. It is better if the compost pit is located somewhere in the corner of the site, adjacent to a blank wall or fence.

Let's also decide what can be thrown into the compost pit and what cannot.

Suitable for composting:

• Raw vegetables, fruits, berries, tea, cereals, coffee. Cleaning residues included.
• Hay, cut grass, straw.
• Leaves.
• Branches, bark, roots of shrubs of trees, slightly crushed.
• weeds.
• Wood ash.
• Needles.
• Napkins, cardboard, paper bags from natural paper, shredded.
• Unpainted wood waste.
• Herbivore dung is the second year.

Not to be used for composting:

• Bones.
• Excrement of domestic animals. They may contain helminth eggs.
• Insect pests and their eggs.
• Plants affected by diseases (tops of tomatoes with late blight, pumpkin and cucumbers with powdery mildew etc.).
• Plants from areas treated with herbicides.
• Inorganic waste: any plastic, iron, synthetic fabrics, rubber.

Non-compostable material should preferably be either incinerated or disposed of in cesspool if it is excrement.

The decomposition of organic matter is carried out by microorganisms and earthworms. Therefore, it is not necessary to isolate all the walls of the pit that are below ground level. If you dig a hole 50 cm deep and enclose it with impenetrable material, the worms will not be able to get inside. They will have to be settled on their own. The rules, as you can see, are quite simple, and the benefits of following them are extremely great.

Compost pit device

The main thing to consider when constructing a compost pit is the need to provide good moisture and looseness for a quality composting process. How to do it - of great importance does not have.

The moisture content of the compost heap can be maintained by regular watering or covered with foil to create the effect of a steam room.

In order for the structure of the contents of the compost bin to be loose, it is necessary either to shake it up with a fork from time to time, or to lay materials with different densities in layers.

The dimensions of the compost pit should be approximately as follows: width - about 1 - 1.5 m, length - 2 m, maximum height 1.2 - 1.5 m, it can be buried in the ground by about 0.2 - 0.4 m.

In this case, the design can be completely different and depends on the preferences of the owner.

Two section compost pit

If you do not use additional effective microorganisms, in addition to those present in the soil on the site, the overdrying and composting of organic matter will take approximately 2 years. For ease of use, you can make the design two-section:
in one section - what we put together this year, in the other - what is composted from the previous year.

When there is ready-made compost in the second section, we will take it out and lay it out on the beds where we want to improve saturate beneficial substances soil. The compost pit can be fenced on all sides like a box, but always with a material that will ensure the penetration of air, for example, wooden picket fences nailed at a distance from each other. So the contents will not rot and emit an unpleasant odor. Such a do-it-yourself compost pit is built in about 1 to 2 days, depending on which fencing material is chosen.

Compost pit with free access at the bottom of the structure

This will be a good replacement for the first option - no need to split into sections. The heap fence starts at a level of 25 - 30 cm from the ground. At the bottom, ready-made compost accumulates, which, if necessary, can be easily removed with a shovel and used in the garden. Convenient and less hassle. Each time compost is taken from below, the contents of the heap will sink, occupying empty space, thereby being saturated with oxygen. You don’t have to specially transfer and loosen.

What should be the correct compost pit

If, after reading all this, you are still wondering: how to make a good compost pit, then here is your answer - do not do it at all.

Firstly, dragging grass and other organics back and forth, from the site to the pile, from the pile to the garden is an extra senseless work.

Secondly, the carbon dioxide formed during the composting process, which is indispensable nutrition plants, mediocrely lost on a heap, unnerving you and your neighbors with its not too pleasant "ambergris".

If you are not afraid to be known as an eccentric, lay out organic residues right on the beds. There they will overheat remarkably, they will not emit an unpleasant smell, as, for example, in a closed heap. Microorganisms will multiply themselves, worms will also come, they know their job - and here there is such an abundance.
Use the cut grass as mulch. Even branches can be chopped and laid in paths between rows. Cleanings from fresh vegetables and fruits are also taken to the garden. Thus, you:

• Keep moisture in the beds;
• Feed plants directly with carbon dioxide;
• Prevent the germination of weeds in the beds;
• Prepare compost directly where it is needed.
• Prevent leaching of humus.

And most importantly, the work is less!

As you can see, the do-it-yourself compost pit I proposed is a very simple task. It does not require any additional effort or skills. Now it remains only to dispose of what is unsuitable for composting next to food. I think you already guessed what it is ...