How to improve the fertility of acidic soils. How to improve soil fertility in a summer cottage. Chernozem, fertile and vegetable soils: characteristics and differences
I do not think that you need to be convinced for a long time that the increase in soil fertility by suburban area- the task is paramount and always relevant.
Improper operation, violation in vegetable gardens and orchards is often the result of the fact that the summer resident is either not interested in any special literature, or thoughtlessly follows all the unverified dubious recommendations of various media in a row.
This leads to the fact that not only semi-fertile country soils, but even chernozem, over time, may lose their ability to provide plants with useful substances, moisture and oxygen: a layer is washed out of fertile soil, salinization of the soil occurs, its structure is disturbed, the soil is actually depleted.
Nature spends more than one hundred years to restore one centimeter of fertile soil layer. At the same time, publications have already appeared more than once that after 4-5 years of exploitation of our land eastern neighbors the fertile layer is completely destroyed! We cannot wait 1000 years for the earth to recover on its own - it needs our help.
How to increase soil fertility in the shortest possible time? 
1. Let the soil rest - black couples Since ancient times, it has been used in crop rotation every 5-6 years to avoid soil fatigue.
During one season, the site is not sown with any crops, but is dug up several times with the addition of organic matter (manure, compost, sapropel), and loosening components.
Suitable for example
— needles, better pine (looses, enriches the soil with air, retains nutrients weakly, has an acidic reaction);
— foliage, better maple, linden, (the worst - chestnut), foliage is poor in nutrients, the reaction is neutral;
— sawdust rotted or semi-rotted must be applied in combination with nitrogen fertilizers;
— straw, it is more convenient to cut, but you can also make a whole one, which has lain in a pile for at least a year;
— peat(loosening, ventilating component of garden soil, nutrients little, the reaction is from weakly to strongly acidic, depending on the type of peat.
2. In the next season, it is useful to sow rye, sunflower or oats in this area - the starch and nitrogen contained in these plants help restore soil fertility.
3. Well restore fertility, treat the soil and nourish the soil microflora and fauna of nettles, wormwood, garlic, marigolds.
4. Indispensable in the process of raising and restoring the soil earthworms- they are able to increase fertility several times in just a couple of years, improving the structure of the soil, filling it with air and moisture and contributing to the formation of humus.
5. Sowing green manure - sow green manure every vacated area during the season: the soil should not be bare - this is the law of nature. There is no bare plowed land in nature (stones, rocks and deserts are not considered here).
Buckwheat, phacelia, peas and other legumes, oil radish, rapeseed, colza, other cruciferous plants, as well as the plants mentioned above. Clover is good in the garden, mustard grows very quickly, you can use any remaining seeds, the main thing is to cover the ground from burning out under the sun and compacting after rains.
6. Mulching- a relatively new method for us (but not for nature): drag mulch from wherever you find it, and in huge quantities - it seems to me that there is never much of it. Close all the beds with it from spring to winter.
The above methods of farming improve the soil gradually, provided that they are constantly applied.
But it is possible to increase soil fertility quickly and significantly, even if organic matter (manure, humus, etc.) is not available.
This is earth digging. Yes Yes! DIGGING. But not a simple digging, as we used to understand, but a special one.
Kurdyumov calls it double digging. It is held in autumn. when the land is free from crops.
But first (in summer) you need to close up the compost heap.
Composting-
We will need compost when digging as a supplier of bacteria to the ground.
Special digging is suitable only for earthen ridges and ridge-boxes. This process is laborious, but the result appears at the first harvest. Such digging can be carried out once every 2-3 years. We do this process every year.
In our garden, the land was loam (clay soil) with a small upper fertile layer. Nine years ago, adobe houses could be built from our land. Now we have fertile soil in the garden, black soil, rich in humus.
And now the process of special digging.
We dig out the first earth, from the end of the bed, and pour it into the cart.
It turns out a small hole to the depth of the spade bayonet (maybe a little more).
In this hole we throw off a little tops, a little straw, a little humus from a compost heap.
We fill up all this compost with the subsequent earth.
There was another hole.
The tops are not crushed.
And already in the hole it is chopped with a shovel.
The hole is filled with additional straw, compost and again covered with earth.
So, this whole repetitive process lasts until the end of the garden. And the hole, which will turn out at the other end of the bed, will be covered with earth from the cart.
Thus, all the "garbage" is buried from the garden, garden, chicken coop and from the compost pit. The earth is enriched with compost.
Due to this, the earth rises flush with the slate.
During the winter, the earth will sag, as the process of rotting tops, waste will take place in it, and there will be a place for laying mulch.
In the spring, this land does not need to be dug up.
The development of a summer cottage, where nothing cultural has grown for a long time, is not a quick matter. How to make beds that will give a good harvest next year? The well-known gardener and gardener Nikolai Kurdyumov tells how to improve clay soil, sandy and how do-it-yourself beds differ from ordinary ones.
My friend in his youth lived in the famous village of Starocherkasskaya - the capital Don Cossacks. Don floodplain, meadow chernozems, two meters high, soft. And his garden was also on the site of the old regimental stables.
I remember he sincerely complained: well, it's a real torment to harvest! Potatoes in weeds - almost a bucket from a bush, beets - two pieces no longer fit into a bucket! Of course, to improve such soil is only to spoil it. It is enough for her to return as much organic matter as has grown on it. And digging it is a crime. But we have few such happy places. My friend is just lucky.
For us, simple clayey, in order to achieve good fertility, we need to work with the soil. And in order not to wait years, it is better to immediately improve the soil in the beds - the first and last time, but dramatically. Oh, how many times I regretted not doing it right away!
Soil improvement during site development: where to start
If your soil is heavy loam, then you need humus, sand, and, if possible, a fine screening of expanded clay. If it is poor sandy loam, clay and humus are needed. In both cases, a third of the new volume of the beds should be organic matter that has rotted into varying degrees. And only a peat bog needs fresh nitrogenous organics: grass or hay, kitchen waste, unusable grain or spoiled feed. And also some clay and sand.
Renowned Austrian permaculturist and nature farmer Sepp Holzer uses his method to rapidly build up humus reserves in extremely poor soils and harsh climates. A trench 40–50 cm deep and of the same width is dug in place of the beds. It is clogged with dry trunks, branches, rotten. This is the primary supply of slow organics and a "sponge" for moisture during the drought.
Then the trench is dug in, and in the Sepp version, the earth is thrown from the sides, fitting into a rampart 70–100 cm high. The meaning of the rampart is a huge difference in microclimate. Sunny windward side - hot and dry. Sunny lee - hot and humid, subtropics. Shady without wind - humid and not hot, shady with wind - not hot, but it blows out moisture.
On the shady side, the plants will climb up the ridge. In the sun - they will bush and fly, like on the beach. Given all this, Sepp sows the shaft with a mixture of different plants - cereals, pumpkins and squash, beans, corn and sunflowers - everything that has large seeds and quickly increases biomass.
By the way, the area of the slopes of the rampart is one and a half of the area of its base.
The finished shaft is covered with straw or hay, strengthened from the wind with branches, and the branches with longitudinal poles. The great dignity of the shaft - early and fast heating of the soil. A trench formed between the ridges - branches were also placed in it and covered with straw. The roots will reach here too.
Sowing is done directly into the straw using a pointed peg. Seeds germinate after rains. All plant residues remain on the ridge. A year later, potatoes are planted here, and various rutabaga with turnips, and pumpkins with zucchini, and on top - a wall of corn.
Beautiful, deep, natural! But to be honest, this is for the most enthusiastic permaculture and personally Sepp owners of a hectare. For my garden, three acres is not an option. We are not accustomed to climbing steep ramparts and unraveling freely mixed bushes. We do not know the behavior of different plants so much. I won't take it from the air. So I'm leaning towards more conventional methods.
In my early books - "according to John Jevons". In fact, all smart gardeners and growers do this. But it just so happened: Jevons wrote a bestseller, I read it in the late 90s and was impressed.
John is an American organ farmer and hard worker, the inventor of "bio-intensive mini-agriculture" (BIMZ). The yields from his beds were many times larger than traditional ones - you must admit, this is impressive.
He began to invent on extremely bad, poor soil. Therefore, I improved it immediately, and then increased fertility not from scratch. The meaning is simple: you need to mix the soil with organic matter (and, if necessary, with sand or clay) to a depth of two bayonets of a shovel. Well, two bayonets - this is in hot California. One and a half (35-40 cm) is enough for us. And three or four spades wide.
Jevons suggests mixing the soil with the additives as you work your way up the bed: take off the top layer, mix the bottom with compost, put the top layer back on, mix it with the compost, move a little further... I keep it simple. Improving my clay bed with sand, I take out the most fertile top layer entirely and fold it from the edge. I mix additives into the bottom and return the top layer to its place, also mixing something.
The top, most organic layer is taken out, it is on the left. The bottom is mixed with sand. The top layer is returned in the same way with sand. This is the only way I have been able to drastically reduce the density of my clay soil. The comfort zone for the roots has almost doubled in depth. It remains to re-structure the soil - this will be done by worms and roots.
So let's take the best of both worlds. We take out the upper 10–15 cm of the fertile soil. We deepen the bottom with a trench deep into the bayonet of a shovel. In the trench - logs and thick branches, but not thick, so that the capillary connection with the subsoil is quickly restored.
It is harmless to lightly powder this windbreak with some kind of nitrogen fertilizer, moisten it with a dung mash or the contents of a dry closet - it will rot faster. It is useful to throw in some fresh weeds - the same nitrogen. In the dry south it is exceptionally harmless to pour hydrogel, circles per square meter.
We return down the subsoil from the trench, pushing it between the pieces of wood. We scatter the excess subsoil in the aisles or take it away. At the bottom we put one or two strips of immature compost or grass, flavored with EM, "Shine" or another bioactivator. Then we fill the bed with the top layer taken out, interspersed with additives (sand / clay) and humus.
It turns out a raised bed - a convex gentle shaft. The bulge adds a lot of space and light to the plants, and in the spring it better receives the sun's rays. For the raw Non-Black Earth and - perfect option beds with their own hands. In the steppe zone, you need and.
In the photo - beds-ridges on the site of Irina Kalmykova on Taman. They warm up much earlier and better. Here, in a very dry area, they are covered with a special mulch film, under which drip tapes lie.
The result of our sweating: the bed is ready to immediately give a decent harvest. The difference is visible in the first year. Look at the photo. Three cucumber bushes on the right are on improved soil, two on the left are on normal soil. Garden L. Lobanov, Ivanovo.
On next photo: The soil on the right is also improved. Filling with organics and bioactivator at the same time added warmth to the soil. Eggplant yield is 9 times more than from the left control bush. Experience of A. Bushikhin, Yaroslavl.
Already a lot! But this is only the beginning. The soil is not yet inhabited by living creatures, not structured, not pierced by roots, not sown with coprolites of worms and other poop. Now we will improve it every year with natural forces: plants, worms, microbes and fungi. But it is already easy. Our main business is feed the soil workers and all kinds of organic matter. Another important work don't disturb them. The rest they will do themselves. And I assure you - they will make it as wonderful as you never dreamed of.
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Ecological methods to improve soil fertility
Currently, most gardeners and gardeners are concerned about finding the most environmentally friendly methods of cultivating the soil and increasing its fertility. Today, such methods of improving the quality indicators of the soil as the preparation of mixed plantings, crop rotation, the use of green manure properties, the use of organic fertilizers and compost are successfully used. A separate place is occupied by vermicultivation and biohumus production.
mixed landings
The mixed planting method is one of the effective ways to improve the quality of the soil and the yield obtained from horticultural and horticultural crops. The main elements in the organization of such beds in most cases are spicy and medicinal plants. They are recommended to be planted in areas with so-called problem soils, poor in nutrients.
In the course of recent studies, the beneficial effect of aromatic herbs on the taste properties and quality characteristics of fruits has been proven. For example, when next to dill, the taste of beets, green peas and onions improves significantly. And the neighborhood of savory makes the taste of head lettuce and tuber fennel more pleasant. Parsley has a positive effect on tomatoes, mint, coriander and cumin on potatoes, and watercress on radishes.
When choosing elements of mixed landings, several rules should be followed. It is known that it is not necessary to place cultures belonging to the same family next to each other. In addition, the height of mature plants must also be taken into account, since taller ones will invariably shade lower species.
The selection of plants in mixed beds should also be based on the demands of crops for light:
- light-loving species are Bell pepper, watermelon, melon, tomatoes, peas, cucumber, beans, eggplant;
- shade-loving species include parsley, spinach, lettuce, dill, Chinese cabbage, rhubarb, zucchini, sorrel;
- a group of moderately photophilous plants are garlic, onions, beans, radishes, radishes, cabbages, beets, carrots, turnips.
In addition, in the neighborhood in mixed plantings, it is not recommended to plant species with a highly branched and slightly branched root system. Crops with a relatively short growing season can be placed with those with a longer growing season (eg carrots and onions). Fennel is an undesirable "neighbor" for other garden species, so the beds with it are best located in a remote area.
The most successful combinations of horticultural crops in mixed plantings are indicated in Table. 8.
Table 8. Combination of crops in a mixed planting
siderates
It is not by chance that they are called green manure. These are the species that form the basis of an organic, ecologically clean method of increasing the level of soil fertility.
The method of using special plants to improve soil properties has been known in agriculture and plant cultivation since ancient times. It was brought to Europe from China, and then quickly spread to the Mediterranean, where it was often used by the ancient Greeks.
Even the Roman scientist Pliny the Elder spoke of the great benefits of green manure. In his multi-volume work Natural History, he described the property of some plant species have a positive effect on soil quality. He compared the effect of green manure on the soil with manure, which, as is known, has the ability to significantly enrich and improve the soil (Table 9).
Table 9 Comparative characteristics content of nutrients in manure and green manure
Unfortunately, with the advent of many different mineral fertilizers, most gardeners and gardeners have undeservedly forgotten about green manure. And only today, in order to take care of the ecological cleanliness of the soil and the cultivated crop, they again remembered these plants. Today we can safely say that the method of cultivating the soil and increasing its fertility by planting green manure is becoming increasingly popular.
Green manure properties
What is the main purpose of green manure? Such plants really need to be used in agriculture, because they:
- are able to enrich the soil with organic components, nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus and calcium, formed as a result of the decomposition of the root system;
- contribute to loosening and improving the structure of the soil, as well as air and water regimes;
- have a beneficial effect on the water-holding capacity of the soil due to its enrichment with organic substances;
- activate the action of beneficial microorganisms;
- prevent the development of harmful microorganisms, thus protecting horticultural crops from diseases;
- inhibit the development of weeds;
- attract insects useful for the development of crops;
- protect the soil from weathering, overheating and erosion;
– increase the quality level of the compost components overheating process, improving its structure and ennobling composition;
- reduce soil acidity.
Green manure classification
All siderats can be divided into several groups:
- cruciferous (white mustard, rapeseed, oilseed radish, colza);
- buckwheat (buckwheat);
- legumes (fodder beans, vetch, peas, sweet clover, clover, lupins, alfalfa, grasshopper, seradella, soybeans, beans, lentils, sainfoin);
- Compositae (sunflower);
- hydrophilic (phacelia);
– cereals (oats, wheat, rye, barley).
Of particular importance among all green manure are legumes. It is known that they are able to significantly enrich the soil with nitrogen due to the ability to easily absorb it from the atmosphere. At the same time, the indicators of assimilation of this substance by cultivated species increase by 50%.
The nature of the impact on soil quality and productivity is due to the fact that green manure belongs to one or another family. You can find out what the effect of a particular plant will be from the table. 10.
Table 10. The nature of the impact of green manures of various families on the soil
Cultivation of green manure
Green manures belong to a group of plants that do not require special growing conditions. However, if you want to use them as garden helpers with maximum efficiency, gardeners and gardeners need to take care of preparing sites and sowing seeds. In addition, information on the rules for the use of plants in this category will be useful.
Soil preparation
Preparation of sites for sowing green manure seeds consists in pre-planting such early-ripening garden crops as early potatoes, radish, lettuce, peas, dill, kohlrabi and cauliflower. After harvesting, plant residues should be embedded in the ground and the surface leveled with a rake.
After that, nitroammophoska is introduced into the soil prepared in this way (calculated as up to 0.5 kg per 1 m 2), planting to a depth of at least 5 cm. Next, green manure seeds are sown in a scattered way. They are embedded in the ground with a rake or sprinkled with a small layer of earth. At proper sowing and favorable conditions, the first shoots will appear 12-14 days after sowing. Green manure can be grown both on separate plots and in mixed plantings with other horticultural species. It is better to place the beds as follows:
– on free sites between other cultures;
- among long-ripening crops (leeks, parsnips or celery root).
It is known that soils with certain physicochemical properties are suitable for green manure of one or another family and species. Thus, choosing a site for growing such plants should be based on their exactingness to the quality of the soil. The information given in table. 11 will help you choose the right site for the cultivation of green manure.
Table 11
Green manure crops can be of several types: compacted and independent, rocker and continuous, stubble and undersowing.
Consolidated and independent. Compacted are such crops of green manure, which are grown on the so-called mixed sites, next to the main crops or other green manure.
At independent way crops for green manure are allocated separate areas for cultivation during one season. In this case, they can be placed both throughout the garden, and in its individual sections. However, they can be kept for short term, between the growing seasons of preceding and subsequent crops. In such cases, they speak of an intermediate (inserted) type of green manure.
Rocker and solid. With the rocker method of sowing, green manure is sown, forming beds in the form of strips, which can have different widths. In this case, the mowed green part of the plants is recommended to be used for fertilizing the adjacent strip-ridge.
Strips of green manure are placed mainly in the aisles of the main horticultural crops. In addition, when located across the slope line, such plantings will help prevent soil erosion. For these purposes, it is best to grow astragalus, clover, lupine and alfalfa.
In some cases, it is advisable to combine the rocker and continuous methods of sowing green manure seeds.
Stubble and undersowing. Stubble crops of green manure are recommended for areas with a wet, long and warm autumn period. Such green fertilizers can be used in the cultivation of fodder root crops, beets, wheat and corn.
Under-sowing underwinter cultivation of green manure is often used in subtropical regions with a humid climate and mild winters. In this case, sowing should be done between September and October. Plowing should be done with the onset of spring and the establishment of warm weather.
Sowing green manure seeds can be carried out in spring or autumn period. In the spring they are located thicker, and in the fall - less often. For early spring sowing, such types of siderates as fodder peas, mustard and oats are suitable. The soil in the selected area must first be dug up well.
Use for soil enrichment
Green manure plowing should be carried out no earlier than 10–14 days before sowing seeds or planting seedlings of the main horticultural crop. In addition, the aerial parts of plants can be cut off with a sharp knife, chopper or flat cutter, then spread over the area in an even layer and, after planting to the required depth, left until compost forms on the surface.
The degree of effectiveness of green manure is mainly due to their age. It is known that young plants contain a greater amount of nitrogen and have a relatively short decay period (from 12 to 30 days) when embedded in the ground. At the same time, it is not recommended to plow in an excessive amount of green manure parts, since they will not have time to decompose, but will turn sour.
More mature plants are characterized by a long period of decomposition. However, their significant advantage is the content of a larger amount of organic components.
It is necessary to start planting grown green manure after the formation of the first flower buds, before they begin to bloom and flowers appear. In this case, the green mass should be embedded to a depth of no more than 8 cm for heavy soils and 15 cm for light soils.
Siderates of one type differ from another by the period of their action. The group of plants with a long exposure period includes sweet clover, winter rye, alfalfa, vetch and clover. They are recommended to be left in areas of 1 year or more.
The relatively short season siderates are represented by species such as beans, barley, peas and oats. You can plow them into the ground 6–8 weeks after sowing the seeds.
The successful cultivation of green manure and the effectiveness of their use as green fertilizers largely depend on the processing of green mass. As mentioned above, the cut off upper parts of the plants should be left on the surface of the soil, only buried to a shallow depth. It is impossible to dig up plantings with green manure. Otherwise, the root system remaining in the soil will be disturbed. This, in turn, will lead to the impossibility of restoring humic substances and soil structure.
In order to speed up the process of decomposition of the cut green parts of green manure, special EM preparations (preparations of effective microorganisms) can be used. They also help to improve the soil microflora, increase the level of fertility and, as a result, increase crop yields.
Types of green manure and their effectiveness
As noted earlier, these plants are natural instrument, with the help of which each gardener can easily restore the structure of the soil, improve its physico-chemical parameters and increase fertility. This, in turn, will create the most favorable conditions for the normal growth and development of plants, which will lead to an increase in their yield.
The most common types of green manure in our country will be discussed below.
Mustard white
White mustard has great importance for crop rotation. Acids of organic origin were found in the secretions of the roots of this plant. Interacting with soil components, they promote the release of sparingly soluble phosphates, replenish potassium reserves and transform inaccessible nutrients into easily digestible.
By absorbing carbon dioxide, mustard roots enrich the soil organic compounds, which leads to an increase in the level of its friability, air and water permeability. This is especially significant for heavy loamy and clayey types of soils.
The root system of mustard, containing phytoncides, has a healing effect on the soil. It has been observed that crops growing near plantings of this green manure significantly reduce the risk of developing common diseases such as late blight, scab, rhizoctoniosis and fusarium.
In addition, mustard prevents damage to horticultural species by wireworm. The incorporation of its green mass into the soil in the late autumn period leads to the death of this pest and, by improving the physical and chemical qualities of the soil, violates the usual conditions for its wintering.
Mustard belongs to the early maturing types of garden plants. Even under adverse temperature conditions, it is able to produce a fairly large crop. The resulting green mass can be successfully used as a natural fertilizer, which is a source of organic components necessary for both plants and microorganisms that inhabit the soil.
sweet clover
For planting both perennial and annual sweet clover, it is recommended to choose sites with neutral soils.
This species is characterized by a powerful root system that requires an increased level of soil moisture. It is due to the well-developed roots and aerial part of the sweet clover that this crop can be quite successfully used as a green fertilizer.
Lupine
Acid soils are suitable for lupine. This perennial plant is undemanding to growing conditions. It is able to develop even in the cool climate of the northern regions. Lupine seeds can be sown in the same area for 8-10 years.
In the 1st year after sowing the seeds, the plant produces a basal rosette consisting of 10–15 palmately compound leaves. Flowering and fruit formation occurs in the 2nd year of the plant's life.
The most favorable for the growth of lupine are sites equipped on slopes, fields and wastelands. A well-developed green mass after aging must be cut and plowed. Incorporation is best done during the flowering period before the fruit-bean formation phase. To increase the yield of green manure, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers can be applied to the soil.
When growing annual lupine, the beveled above-ground parts are used for silage or animal feed, and the aftermath is used as organic fertilizer for winter crops. All types of lupins, depending on the content or absence of alkaloids in the green parts, are conditionally divided into alkaloid-free (sweet) and alkaloid (bitter). The former are used as feed for livestock, and the latter as green manure for horticultural plants, contributing to the transportation and preservation of atmospheric nitrogen in the soil.
Seradella
Seradella belongs to the legume family. This plant is demanding on the humidity regime. For him, it is best to allocate areas with light and slightly acidic soils. With a sufficient amount of incoming moisture, seradella is able to develop well on depleted sandstones and sandy loams. It is possible to increase the yield by introducing phosphorus-potassium fertilizers and manure into the soil, as well as by pre-treatment of seeds with nitragin.
Seradella seeds are recommended to be sown in early spring. At the same time, independent landings are formed in small separate groups. Such a plant can also be grown on a mixed bed with spring or winter cereals (rye, oats).
Oil radish
Oil radish is an annual plant belonging to the cruciferous family, up to 2 m high. It is distinguished by a highly branched structure of the aerial part. This is a rather undemanding moisture-loving species in terms of temperature and light conditions.
The yield of oilseed radish is quite high. During the season, 2-3 crop rotations can be carried out. Seeds are characterized by good germination, both in early spring and late autumn sowing. However, the period from the second half of July to mid-August is considered the most favorable for their sowing.
Before sowing, it is recommended to mix the selected seeds of oil radish with previously well-dried sand in a ratio of 1: 4. Then they need to be scattered over the site and harrowed. When sowing, seeds should be planted to a depth of no more than 3 cm. It will be possible to dig up the soil after the development and maturation of the green mass during the formation of flowers.
The use of oil radish as a green manure is due to its ability to bind nitrogen. mixed landings radishes, vetch and other types of legumes allow you to save up to 200 kg of biological forms of nitrogen per 1 ha in the soil.
In addition, high phytosanitary qualities of oil radish are known. In those areas where this species grows, nematodes and other types of pathogens are practically not found. In addition, it stops the development of weeds (including wheatgrass).
Rape
Rapeseed is an annual spring or winter plant that belongs to the cruciferous family. It was obtained by crossing garden cabbage and rapeseed.
For the cultivation of rapeseed, a site with dry soil should be prepared. The best option would be a structural clay or loamy soil, rich in nutrients and characterized by high water permeability.
The plant will not develop on waterlogged, excessively wet and heavy clay soils. Mineral fertilizers will help to get a particularly high yield of rapeseed. Rapeseed is cold hardy. It is able to develop normally even with frosts down to -5 ° C.
Rapeseed is often used as green manure. Thanks to their chemical properties it is able to saturate the soil with phosphorus, sulfur and substances of organic origin. In addition, this green manure largely inhibits the growth and development of weeds and increases the level of soil fertility.
Buckwheat
Buckwheat is a plant that belongs to the buckwheat family. Its main distinguishing features are a short growing season and a well-developed root system. The length of the roots often reaches 150 cm.
Quite often, buckwheat is used as green manure to enrich the soil under fruit garden crops. Thanks to a powerful root system, it contributes to loosening the soil. Therefore, it is recommended to grow it on heavy soils, the structure of which needs to be improved.
In addition, buckwheat can significantly reduce the pH level of acidic soil. It can be successfully used to enrich depleted soils with organic components, potassium and phosphorus.
Phacelia
Phacelia is a plant belonging to the water-leaved family and belonging to the group of valuable honey plants. It is characterized by a short growing season and a powerful aerial part. In addition, the phacelia has a well-developed root system: the length of individual roots can reach 20 cm.
For the cultivation of this green manure, you can choose any area. Phacelia is undemanding to the quality of the soil, light and temperature conditions. This is a frost-resistant plant that can develop normally even after the air temperature drops to -9 ° C. Seeds sown in early spring immediately after thawing of the soil give strong shoots.
Phacelia is often used in horticulture and horticulture as a green manure. Such green manure improves the structure of the soil and increases its air permeability.
Sunflower
Sunflower is an annual plant that belongs to the Compositae family. It has a well developed root system, going to a depth of 2 m. During the growing season gives a large amount of green mass. Soils of any quality and level of acidity are suitable for planting.
When used as a green manure, sunflower is grown to a height of no more than 500 cm, preventing flowering.
Rye and oats
Any soil is suitable for planting rye and oats. Both of these species are distinguished by a well-developed root system, which determines their ability to absorb the maximum amount of nutrients from sparingly soluble compounds contained in the soil.
Winter varieties of rye and oats are characterized by low demands on predecessor crops and are developing rapidly. Within 1.5-2 months, you can get a significant crop of green mass.
Sowing winter rye is best done from the second half of August to the first third of September. The optimal period is the period from 15 to 25 August. To do this, it is more convenient to use the sites where potatoes or any other garden crops used to grow.
With the advent of spring, nitrogen fertilizers should be applied to the soil where rye seeds were sown in the fall. This must be done to increase the yield of green manure. The resulting mass is cut and plowed into the ground. Close up the above-ground parts of rye and oats must be no later than May 15.
As siderates, oats and rye are grown due to their ability to replenish potassium, nitrogen and organic components in the soil. The consequence of this is an improvement in the structure of the soil and an increase in its moisture and air permeability. This property of rye and oats is especially important in agriculture on heavy loamy and clayey soils.
Peas
Peas are an annual plant in the legume family. It's early vegetable crop open ground, the main characteristics of which are precocity and cold resistance. It is known that pea seeds are able to germinate at temperatures from 4 °C, and seedlings tolerate frosts down to –4 °C.
This garden crop is photophilous and demanding on moisture. It is best grown in soils rich in potassium and phosphorus. Also suitable are areas where nightshade and pumpkin trees and areas under fruit trees used to grow.
As a green manure, peas are valuable primarily due to their ability to enrich the soil with nitrogen. It is recommended to plant cut green mass in the soil 1.5–2 months after sowing the seeds - during flowering. When sown in early August, the above-ground parts are closed up in the second half of September or early October (before the onset of frost).
Sainfoin
Esparcet is a plant belonging to the legume family and representing a group of honey plants. In the wild, it can be found in the southern and central regions of Europe, as well as in Western Asia and northern Africa. In our country, such varieties of sainfoin are cultivated as Sandy improved, Sandy 1251 and North Caucasian two-cutting.
In agriculture, sainfoin is used mainly as a crop suitable for fodder, field and soil-protective crop rotation. Its aerial parts contain fats, carbohydrates, proteins, nitrogen-free compounds, rutin, ascorbic acid, flavones and amino acids.
It is a drought tolerant but temperature demanding plant that is unable to withstand even slight frosts. Any soil is suitable for it, including sandy and gravel. However, a particularly large yield of green mass can be obtained when grown on chernozems and soils rich in lime.
Sainfoin is used as green manure to enrich the soil with phosphorus, nitrogen and organic matter.
Crop rotation
Prolonged cultivation of one or another horticultural crop on the same area invariably leads to a decrease in the physical and chemical qualities of the soil, its depletion and depletion, the appearance of pathogens and pests. This, in turn, leads to a deterioration in the conditions in which plants develop.
Some crops, when grown for a long time in the same place, can cause significant qualitative changes in the soil. Thus, the constant planting of cabbage on a particular site causes an increase in the level of soil acidity. And in the area where onions always grow, the risk of the appearance of nematodes increases many times over. In addition, some plants activate the removal of nutrients from the soil.
Prolonged cultivation of any particular horticultural crop in the same area can be justified only on the condition that this does not lead to an increase in the number of colonies of pests and microorganisms that cause plant diseases. In order to prevent this, it is better to use a special method of cultivating vegetable and flower species - crop rotation, or the annual alternation of crops.
As you know, the root system of plants not only nourishes their above-ground parts, but also actively participates in soil-forming processes, improving soil microflora, its structure and physico-chemical parameters. Thus, there is a direct relationship between the soil and the plant, which consists in the exchange of nutrients with the assistance of moisture, light and heat. The roots have the ability to secrete organic components into the soil, among which acids of organic origin, phenolic compounds, hormones, sugars, vitamins and enzymes should be mentioned.
Prolonged cultivation in the same area of a plant of a certain species leads to the accumulation of colins in the soil, which deteriorate the structure and reduce the level of soil fertility. In most cases, the main cause of soil depletion and a decrease in crop yields is the accumulation of toxic substances released by the plants themselves during their long-term cultivation on a permanent site.
Garden species that are highly sensitive to the toxins they secrete include beets and spinach. Leek, legumes and corn have a lesser degree of sensitivity. Peppers, cabbage, tomatoes, carrots, and cucumbers produce large amounts of toxic colins.
Another reason why the crop rotation method should be used is the settlement of sites with a constantly planted one or another horticultural crop with insect pests and pathogens. Particularly common diseases arising from the cultivation of a single plant species in a permanent plot are those caused by onion and carrot flies, leaf and root nematodes, as well as pathogens of root rot and root club. Most effective way combating them is considered crop rotation.
Usually, pests and pathogens affect representatives of a particular family of horticultural crops. In this regard, it is not necessary, for example, to plant turnips, radishes and radishes in those beds where cabbage used to grow. If clubroot occurs, it is recommended to plant cabbage in its original place no earlier than 6 years after the year of infection. On such a plot, it is possible to cultivate such species representing a different family.
Crop rotation allows you to protect the soil from depletion and degeneration, and plants from pests and diseases. In addition, this method of farming helps to prevent the removal of nutrients from the soil. At the same time, it is necessary to know which crops can maximize the quality of the soil.
It is known that plants with a well-developed root system, through which useful substances come from deep soil horizons to surface ones, can increase soil fertility. In addition, they make the soil looser. This is especially important for heavy loamy and clayey soils.
When choosing horticultural crops to ensure crop rotation on the site, you can use the table. 12.
Table 12. Crops and their predecessors in crop rotation
The basis of the crop rotation is the alternation of horticultural crops, in which 3 species should successively replace each other in one plot within 3 seasons. Under the climatic conditions of our country, it is recommended to include in the crop rotation following plants:
- for the first year - crops demanding on the quality of the soil;
- in the second year - legumes that have the ability to enrich the soil with nitrogen and improve its structure;
- in the third year - species undemanding to the soil.
The exactingness of plants to the soil can be found out by reading the table. 13.
Table 13
On a plot with a small area, the crop rotation method can be used in this way. First, the site must be divided into 3 parts, after which potatoes should be planted in the first part, cucumbers, zucchini, cabbage and pumpkin in the second, and onions, parsley, tomatoes, carrots, peas, beans and beets in the third. In the next season, plants from the second part are transferred to the first, from the third to the second, and from the first to the third.
organic fertilizers
The method of increasing soil fertility through the application of organic fertilizers is one of the ecological ones. Common sources of nutrients are manure, compost, humus, ash, peat, lake silt, and bird droppings.
Manure and bird droppings
Since ancient times, manure and bird droppings have been used in agriculture to improve the fertility of poor and heavy soils. As a fertilizer, manure was known back in Ancient China. It has been widely used for soil enrichment and medieval Europe. Currently, manure is introduced into the soil both independently and as part of nutrient mixtures, biofuel and compost.
Manure is environmentally friendly and highly effective fertilizer. It contains a significant amount of nutrients required by plants for normal growth and development. The components included in its composition have the ability to improve the structure of the soil, its air and water regimes, improve physical and chemical characteristics and the level of fertility.
So, magnesium and calcium contained in manure reduce the acidity of the soil. Beneficial microorganisms increase its biological activity. Potassium and phosphorus found in manure are in a form readily available to plants. Nitrogen coming from it remains in the soil for a long time and is gradually consumed by horticultural crops.
From manure, a large amount of carbon dioxide is released into the soil, which is required for photosynthesis and heat transfer. The result is an increase in the quality of the soil and, as a result, the yield of horticultural crops.
In horticulture and vegetable growing, manure of cows, sheep, pigs and horses, as well as rabbit and bird droppings are used. There are 3 main types of manure: bedding, bedless and slurry.
Bedding manure contains the following plant nutrients: phosphorus oxide (up to 0.6%), magnesium oxide (up to 0.5%), nitrogen (up to 0.5%), calcium oxide (up to 0.35%) and potassium oxide (up to 0.6%). More detailed information is given in table. 14.
Table 14. Nutrient content of manure
This type of organic fertilizer is stored using an anaerobic (without oxygen in dense piles) or aerobic (with air in loose piles) method. The first is considered more preferable, since it allows you to save the maximum amount of useful organic components and nitrogen, although it slows down the decay process.
For the preparation of manure by the anaerobic method, the fertilizer should be folded into piles that need to be well compacted. Then they are covered with soil, the layer thickness of which should be at least 10 cm. Peat and plastic wrap are laid on top. If necessary, peat can be replaced with a mowed above-ground part of weeds. After 3-4 months, half-rotted manure will turn out, and after another 3 months - rotted.
There is also a faster way to prepare manure. To do this, the fresh mass must be laid in a loose layer on a grass substrate and left until the internal temperature rises to 60 ° C. After this, a layer of manure must be well compacted. In this way, fertilizer is laid and maintained at subsequent levels.
When the height of the stack is 1.5 m, peat is laid on top with a layer no more than 30 cm thick, then grass and other materials of organic origin are laid. Everything is left for overheating. From time to time, the stack needs to be moistened using water or slurry.
With this method of obtaining manure fertilizer, the most intensive process of decomposition of its constituent components proceeds to the stage of compaction of the initial mass. This releases a certain amount of organic matter and nitrogen. The seal reduces the internal temperature by up to 30 °C. From this point on, the components of the manure are overripe under anaerobic conditions.
It is possible to reduce the amount of nitrogen released during the decomposition of manure components by increasing the thickness of the litter and pouring layers of manure mass with phosphorus flour or superphosphate. The combined method allows you to get semi-rotted fertilizer after 1.5–2 months, and rotted fertilizer after 4–5 months. Manure prepared in this way is introduced into the soil before digging.
Semi-liquid bedless manure contains solid particles and liquid excretions. It is collected on farms where the floor is not covered with straw. The components that make up this fertilizer are water (up to 90%), phosphorus, nitrogen and potassium. During storage, it is recommended to mix it with peat (in a ratio of 1: 1), soil and straw.
Liquid manure can be found in large livestock farms, where the cleaning method is used in the hydroflushing process. The humidity level of such a mass reaches 95%. It was found that it is 2-3 times poorer in nutrients compared to a semi-liquid fertilizer of this type.
Before use, the liquid manure mass must be left for settling, after which the solid part must be embedded in the soil, and the remaining liquid must be diluted with water and used for watering plants, filtered and poured into a watering can.
Slurry is the liquid fraction of settled manure. It contains the following substances: phosphorus (up to 0.12%), nitrogen (up to 0.26%) and potassium (up to 0.38%). It should be noted that urea, which is part of manure, under the influence of microorganisms, takes the form of ammonium carbonate, which is quickly released when oxygen is available. In order to prevent this, liquid manure is best stored by folding it into a container and tightly closing the lid.
As mentioned above, not only cattle manure, but also rabbit and bird droppings are used as organic fertilizer. It should be noted that it contains more nutrients. And in terms of intensity of exposure, it can be compared with mineral fertilizers.
At a humidity level of up to 56%, bird and rabbit droppings contain up to 1.8% phosphorus oxide, up to 2.4% calcium oxide, up to 2.2% sodium and up to 1.1% potassium oxide. After drying, the content of these components increases. In addition to those listed above, the composition of bird droppings includes such trace elements as cobalt (up to 1.2 mg/100 g), iron (up to 300 mg/100 g), zinc (12–39 mg/100 g), copper (up to 2 .5 mg/100 g) and manganese (15–38 mg/100 g).
Bird droppings belongs to the group of effective organic fertilizers. However, its use in excessive amounts can lead to damage to both the aerial parts and the root system of plants. To prevent leaf burns after processing, they must be sprinkled clean water. Duck and goose droppings have a milder effect.
Another disadvantage of this fertilizer is the rapid release of nitrogen. In order to avoid its loss, it is better to introduce manure into the soil as part of a mixture with superphosphate or peat chips.
The disadvantages of manure and bird droppings also include the presence in it of weed seeds, larvae and eggs of insect pests and microorganisms that are pathogens. various diseases plants and humans (for example, salmonella). To combat the latter, it is recommended to use the method of biothermal deworming, which is similar in technology to composting.
At present, fertilizers based on manure have been developed and successfully used. In addition, there are special preparations with microorganisms (lactic bacteria, photosynthetic bacteria, yeast) that enhance the effect of manure. Their components contribute to the transformation of the fiber contained in the manure mass into humus, which is necessary to increase the level of soil fertility.
Various horticultural crops need a certain amount of nutrients. In table. 15 listed optimal amount manure applied under a particular plant.
Table 15. The amount of manure applied for horticultural crops
It is no coincidence that compost is often used as an organic fertilizer. Indeed, its effectiveness is very high due to the content of a large number of substances useful for plants (Table 16). In composition and structure, it is similar to the most fertile soil horizons. Given that proper cooking this fertilizer will significantly improve the physical and chemical properties of the soil.
Table 16. Compost composition
The following ingredients can be used to make compost:
- tea leaves and coffee grounds;
- thin branches and shoots remaining after pruning of fruit trees and shrubs;
– food waste(cereals, vegetables, fruits, eggshells, etc.);
- chopped wood;
- roots and bark of plants;
- straw, wood shavings, sawdust and hay;
- half-decayed leaves left over from the previous gardening season;
- freshly cut grass;
- rotted manure mass;
– natural materials intended for the care of animals (except for toilet accessories);
- weeds (except rhizomes);
- wood ash;
- shredded paper made from natural raw materials without synthetic additives and dyes;
– freshwater and marine algae;
- shredded fabrics made from natural fibers (linen, cotton, silk and wool);
– other garden waste.
Not suitable for composting:
– meat production waste;
- dried leaves of the current season;
- mowed plants affected by a pest or pathogen of any disease;
- fresh manure mass;
- coal ash;
- garden waste left after the treatment of the site with herbicides;
- glass;
- rubber;
- metal;
- plastic.
Enough to get compost High Quality, it is necessary to ensure the optimal ratio of carbon and nitrogen contained in it. It is known that an excessive amount of the latter leads to the activation of the growth of microorganisms (as a result of which there is an increase in the intensity of their absorption of oxygen), the release of waste products and death. All this causes the compost components to rot, which is unacceptable.
Excessive presence of carbon in the compost mass, on the contrary, causes a slowdown in the growth of the population and the activity of beneficial microorganisms. As a result, the decomposition processes are suspended, which causes insufficient decomposition of the substances that make up the compost.
To create favorable conditions in the compost heap, the raw materials used must be well crushed. This will speed up the process of decomposition of the components and improve the quality of the final product. To reduce the decomposition time of compost components, special additives can be used. For example, you can use a yeast solution made from yeast (1 cube), water (1 L) and sugar (200 g). In addition, bone meal, lime and nitrogen fertilizers can be used for the same purpose.
Composting usually takes a long time. It is known that its constituent substances completely decompose in 10–12 months. In order to receive compost during the entire garden season, it is recommended to allocate 2-3 sites for compost heaps. Moreover, the old masses need periodic replenishment with fresh material.
Composting
For composting, it is convenient to use wooden boxes without a bottom. The volume of each of them must be at least 1 m 3. A removable wall will help facilitate the removal of the finished fertilizer. The boards are connected in such a way that there is a gap between them, allowing air to penetrate into the deep layers of the filler.
Before filling the boxes, prepare the site on the site. To do this, dig a hole, the perimeter of which corresponds to the size of the box. After that, the bottom of the resulting recess is lined with branches or sawdust, which will prevent the accumulation of moisture.
Then the material prepared for composting and the previously excavated soil are laid, which will provide the raw materials with useful microorganisms.
In the future, during drought, the compost heap is moistened from time to time. In addition, it needs to be mixed and ventilated. This is done with the help of a pitchfork, which successively raises small layers of the contents of the pit. The surface of the compost must be periodically pricked in several places, thus providing air access to deeper layers.
There is another way to make compost. It will reduce the time for obtaining high-quality fertilizer of this type. To prepare it, a plastic box or a box knocked down from boards is placed in a designated area, after digging a hole. Its bottom must be covered with hay, straw, spruce branches or thin rods, forming a bedding layer with a thickness of at least 10 cm.
Filler is placed on top of the substrate layer by layer. In this case, it is best to use various materials. For example, first put food waste (fruit or vegetable), then paper from natural raw materials, and then sequentially - freshly cut grass, annual plants dug with roots and leaves of the previous gardening season.
It is recommended to alternate wet and dry, soft and hard materials. Such an arrangement of raw materials will reduce the maturation time of the compost and improve its structure. It is not necessary to compact materials when laying. Otherwise, with a lack of oxygen, they will rot.
Each layer of material during the formation of the compost heap is covered with soil or mature manure. In addition, you will need special substances that accelerate the process of decomposition of substances. If necessary, they can be replaced with fresh plants containing a significant amount of nitrogen: yarrow, legumes, dandelion, nettle or comfrey.
After laying the material, the compost heap must be covered with plastic sheeting or any other sheet of the same type that will help maintain humidity and temperature (no more than 55 ° C) inside the structure at the required level.
During the maturation of the compost, the filler must be mixed regularly. Then oxygen will be delivered to the deep layers of the contents of the pit. In dry weather, the compost heap should also be watered, but water stagnation must be prevented.
The appearance of an unpleasant odor emanating from the compost heap indicates that the process of decomposition of its constituent components is proceeding incorrectly. So, when the smell of rotten eggs appears, it is necessary to provide air access to the thickness of the compost. To do this, it is turned over and materials that have a loose structure are added (sawdust and shavings, crushed thin tree branches, etc.).
The smell of ammonia during composting indicates an excess of nitrogen in the filler. To reduce the level of its content, carbon components (for example, shredded paper from natural raw materials) are placed in a heap.
With the correct implementation of all necessary work compost is usually ready in a few months. This high quality fertilizer is brown in color and has a slightly sweet aroma of fresh soil. It is recommended to sample the finished compost from the lower layers, then in the future it will be more convenient to add new material.
Compost application
Currently, there are several ways to use compost:
– introduction of mature fertilizer into the furrows and distribution over the surface of the beds;
- formation of the so-called high beds with incorporation of plant waste;
- laying semi-ripe compost from a bed with borders up to 20 cm high.
Laying compost on the bed surface
The distribution of mature compost on the surface of the beds is considered traditional way use of this type of organic fertilizer. With this method, it is not only laid on top of the soil, but, having previously been mixed with mineral fertilizer, it is embedded in the planting furrows.
For these purposes, it is sometimes advisable to use semi-ripe compost. In this case, the compost mass acts as a mulch. During periods of drought, it not only enriches the soil with the necessary nutrients, but also prevents the upper soil horizons from drying out and cracking.
When using immature compost, one should be wary of the spread of pathogens contained in it to plants. In addition, it is not recommended to sow seeds in such a mixture, which may not sprout due to the high level of biological activity of the fertilizer. However, when growing plants by seedling method, the use of semi-mature compost can be very effective.
Formation of a "high bed"
In some cases, compost is used as an organic fertilizer, forming the so-called high ridges. They can be either without sides or with them. The advantages of this method of applying the compost mass are obvious. "High beds" contribute to the rapid release of soil from excess moisture and rapid warming up in the early spring. Thus, the method of forming "high beds" is most needed in areas with soils that are excessively wet in spring.
The introduction of compost through the formation of "high ridges" provides an increase in the level of soil fertility and the yield of planted horticultural crops. This is achieved not only due to the high content of nutrients in the fertilizer, but also by activating the supply of oxygen to the root system of plants. Crops grown under such conditions develop well and become more resistant to pests and diseases.
The advantage of compost "high beds", among other things, is their intense warming under the action of sunlight. At the same time, useful microorganisms contained in the soil and dormant during the autumn-winter period are activated. The rapid warming up of the soil is carried out, among other things, due to the work of microflora. The result of such processes is the rapid growth of the root system and aboveground parts of plants.
Among the shortcomings of "high ridges" one should first of all note their drying out in the absence or irregular irrigation. In addition, compost cannot provide balanced diet garden crops. Even with his constant use fertilizers containing mineral components are required to be applied to the soil.
Another significant drawback of compost is the fact that it creates favorable conditions for the spread of such a garden pest as a bear. Before applying this organic fertilizer, it is recommended to check if this insect is present on the site. In the event that it is detected, additional measures will be required to combat it.
"High beds" are recommended to be arranged on the sunny side of the site, since crops grown on compost sites are photophilous. In addition, plants that are demanding on temperature conditions can be planted on them. It is known that the temperature of the compost from which the "high bed" is formed is usually 6-7 ° C higher than that of ordinary soil.
The compost of the first year of maturity, as a rule, contains a large amount of nitrogen. In this regard, the first 2 years should not be grown on compost beds of crops that are characterized by the ability to accumulate nitrates. These include radishes, spinach, beets, lettuce, and chard.
In the first year of compost maturity, it is recommended to cultivate garden plants that are demanding on nutrients: cucumbers, cabbage, zucchini, celery and pumpkin. But at the same time, it must be remembered that pumpkin plants are able to quickly extract a significant amount of nutrients from the soil and deplete the soil.
The formation of a "high bed" with sides
Even more effective than the previous method are "high beds" formed from compost and reinforced on both sides with wooden sides up to 20 cm high. For the device of the latter, you can take boards or any other suitable material.
The device of "high beds" with sides should begin with digging a trench, the bottom of which must be sprinkled with a layer of sand no more than 7 cm thick. The width of the beds can reach 45 cm. Having fixed the sides, the resulting container is filled with a semi-ripe compost mass and sprinkled with soil.
Experienced gardeners are advised to form "high beds" with sides in the autumn. To fill them, you need to use semi-ripe compost, to which you can add plant waste from the current season. When laying out the filler, it is necessary to moisten it well and enrich it with preparations of microorganisms or a manure solution.
The technique of arranging "high ridges" with sides is in many ways reminiscent of the so-called Mitlider ridges, made up of two-layer soil. In this case, the first layer is laid out directly on the soil surface from a mixture of sand and sawdust, enclosed between the sides up to 20 cm high. The difference between them and compost "high beds" is that the Mitlider method requires the use of mineral fertilizers, while the latter method involves the use of nutrient compost that requires less enrichment with such components.
The difference between the described "high bed" and Mitlider's is also that the process of decay of sawdust, which is an integral part of the sand-sawdust filler, is based on soil humus. As a result of the decomposition of the components, the mixture gradually acquires the appearance of a soil with stable humus and a loose structure. When the substances that make up the compost break down, humus is also formed. However, it is characterized by less stability, and therefore it breaks down faster with the release of substances useful for the soil and plants.
However, as noted above, the decomposition of compost is accompanied by the release of substances that are unbalanced in their composition. In most cases, there is an excessive amount of nitrogen in it and an insufficient content of magnesium and calcium. That is why it would be advisable to further enrich the compost beds with minerals.
Vermicultivation and biohumus
Earthworms are often called the natural reproducers of soil fertility. These representatives of the class of invertebrates are considered the most ancient and numerous inhabitants of the planet.
On the territory of Russia there are up to 100 species of earthworms. Thanks to their activities, the structure and qualitative composition soil. Since the diet of worms consists mainly of plant waste, they can rightly be called the orderlies of the soil. Indeed, they contribute to the purification of the soil from the remains of plants and pathogens.
It is known that earthworms are the main consumers of plant waste. It has been estimated that their total biomass is between 50 and 70% of the total soil biomass. Together with soil particles, they absorb detritus, protozoa, microbes, algae and fungi in the process of life. Subsequently, digested and excreted by worms, they acquire the form of a coprolite, which includes enzymes, vitamins and active components that contribute to soil disinfection and prevent the formation of pathogenic microflora and the development of decay processes.
In addition to litter, earthworms process manure. Studies confirm that with their help, 1 ton of manure can be converted into 600 kg of humus, which is necessary to maintain soil fertility and normal plant development. The humus mass formed as a result of the activity of earthworms differs in composition from that which is formed in the soil due to beneficial microorganisms.
Scientists argue that in the cavity of the digestive tube of earthworms, polymerization of low molecular weight components occurs, arising in the process of decay of organic structures. As a result, molecules of humic acids are formed, which, in turn, participate in the formation of compounds with the mineral constituents of the soil. This is how calcium and magnesium humates are formed, which are insoluble humus, and potassium, lithium and sodium humates - soluble humus.
The complex compounds mentioned above are characterized by stability. They are distinguished by water resistance, high moisture capacity, mechanical and hydrophilic strength. Thus, we can say that the vital activity of earthworms causes a slowdown in the process of washing out nutrients from the soil and protects the soil from wind and water erosion.
Another advantage is their ability to provide beneficial effect on the moisture regime of the soil and its structure. It was observed that during the summer season, a population of 50 individuals forms passages, the total length of which reaches 1 km. In this case, the worms secrete coprolites, the layer thickness of which can be 3 mm. Thus, a colony of 50 worms processes up to 250 kg of soil within 1 day.
When living in natural conditions, the indicators of the abundance and species diversity of earthworms are determined by the type of soil. Thus, their maximum number - up to 450 individuals per 1 m 2 - is observed in areas with light loamy and sandy loamy soils. In clay soils there are fewer of them - up to 230 individuals per 1 m 2, and in soils with high level acidity, the number decreases to 25 individuals per 1 m 2.
The species and quantitative composition of earthworms is significantly influenced not only by the quality of the soil, but also by its moisture characteristics, topography and vegetation cover. It is known that in grassy areas their number can reach 235 individuals per 1 m2. Such a population is usually represented by 5 species. In areas with forests, this figure increases to 8 species, and in areas of river floodplains - up to 11.
For normal life, earthworms need organic complexes, which include nitrogen. However, its content in the soil may be limited. It is the need for it that explains the localization of worm populations and their numbers in a particular zone. In soils saturated with nitrogen, the abundance and species diversity are greater compared to soils poor in this substance.
Just as decisive for the abundance and species composition of earthworm populations as the content of nitrogen-containing components in the soil is the nature of plant litter. Such animals prefer those groups that contain a sufficient amount of nitrogen. In addition, the source of nitrogen components for them are microorganisms inhabiting the soil, fungi and algae. Getting into the digestive tube of worms, they are digested without residue, so their presence cannot be detected in coprolites.
Thus, the vital activity of earthworms, during which the breakdown of plant fiber and the digestion of nitrogenous complexes, causes a partial enrichment of the soil with mineral components, microorganisms, magnesium, potassium, nitrogen, calcium and phosphorus. This is their main influence on the structure and composition of the soil.
The number of earthworm populations determines not only the diet and composition of the vegetation cover, but also the level of soil moisture. It was noted that when soil moisture is not higher than 35%, the rate of development of individuals and population growth decreases, and a decrease in moisture level to 22% leads to their death. To ensure normal conditions, soil moisture should not be less than 70%.
The level of soil acidity also has a significant effect on the viability of earthworms. They are not able to live in soils with a pH of 5 to 9. The most optimal conditions for them are neutral soils.
In the climate of temperate latitudes, earthworms remain active for 6–7 months. After the soil freezes to a depth of at least 5 cm, and the thickness of the snow cover is 8–10 cm, they hibernate. From the state of anabiosis, the worms come out even with a slight thaw. With the advent of spring, they wake up 10-15 days after the thawing of the frozen soil layer.
Salt solutions are very detrimental to earthworms. Even 0.5% salt concentration is enough for their complete disappearance from the site. Gardeners and gardeners need to know this in order to fully master the methods of using worms to increase soil fertility.
However, it must be remembered that some types of salts (aluminum sulphate, calcium carbonate, ferric chloride and iron carbonate), which are used to coagulate organic fertilizers, do not harm earthworms. In this regard, such preparations can be safely included in the nutrient soil complex used.
Biohumus
Biohumus, or worm compost, is a product of the processing of compost components, obtained as a result of the vital activity of earthworms. The composition of fresh biohumus with a moisture level of up to 50% includes up to 15% of humic matter, and dried - up to 35%. In addition, it contains phosphorus pentoxide (0.8–2%), nitrogen (0.8–2%), magnesium oxide (0.3–0.5%), potassium oxide (0.7–1.2 %) and other components (Table 17). This fertilizer has high microbiological properties, since it contributes to the normalization of the main processes characteristic of high-quality soil.
Table 17. Composition of vermicompost
The main advantage of biohumus is the high content of humic substances, the amount of which is 6–8 times higher than in compost and manure.
In addition, the advantages of worm compost include high moisture capacity and hydrophilicity, the strength of its constituent particles, the absence of weed seeds, the presence of a significant amount of beneficial microorganisms, enzymes, vitamins and growth hormones.
Biohumus belongs to the group of organic fertilizers, the use of which is absolutely harmless. In addition, it can be used in combination with any other types of fertilizer complexes (mineral fertilizers, compost, manure, etc.). It is characterized by high efficiency and intensity of impact.
It was noticed that when biohumus is introduced into the soil, the vegetation period of plants is reduced by 1.5–2 weeks. This causes an increase in yield and fruit ripening indicators (Tables 18 and 19).
Table 18
Table 19. Comparative indicators of increasing the yield of tomatoes when using biohumus and nitrogen-potassium-phosphorus fertilizer
Among other advantages of such an organic fertilizer as vermicompost, one should mention its ability to significantly reduce the content of harmful nitrates in the fruits of horticultural crops. The indicators of its impact are clearly reflected in Table. 20. It should also be noted that even with long-term storage, the properties of biohumus are not destroyed. When used, it causes the accumulation of humic substances in the soil, improves its structure and makes it more resistant to both water and wind erosion. The use of worm compost can without any doubt be called one of the most environmentally friendly methods of effectively increasing fertility and improving the soil.
Table 20
Method for obtaining earthworms
Productive species of the so-called compost earthworm are one of the biological components that serve to process the substances that make up the compost mass, often used to fertilize the soil. Such technological breeds have received quite wide use due to rapid adaptability to various organic substrates. Such productive view was the basis of the selection work carried out in the United States of America in the middle of the 20th century. Its result was the breeding of the red Californian worm, which today is successfully used to obtain high-quality biohumus. It differs from wild species in high fecundity, relative unpretentiousness to habitat conditions. For its maintenance, it is enough to prepare ground cultivators, similar to beds. No special greenhouses or protective structures are required for its removal.
In Russia, breeding species of earthworms began to appear in the 80s of the XX century. Scientists have found that the technological types of these animals can be obtained from any wild populations that live in a particular area. Therefore, gardeners and gardeners do not need to purchase worms in other regions.
The purchase of technological types of earthworms is associated with the risk of acquiring specimens that are unadapted to life in conditions that are different from the usual ones. For example, individuals raised on one food may not accept another containing different components.
Harvesting earthworms
In order to prevent possible contamination of the soil with nematodes and to obtain high-quality worms for the preparation of biohumus, you can use the following method. Earthworms can be collected from old manure heaps or heaps, from farms or from forest ravines. This is best done in environmentally friendly areas that have never been treated with chemicals.
Earthworms selected from the soil must be collected in a prepared container, previously filled with soil collected from the site. Their collection is recommended in warm and clear weather. For one cultivator, it is enough to recruit no more than 1,000 individuals per 1 m 2.
To bait earthworms, you can dig a narrow ditch in the raspberry bush or along the fence line in early spring, the bottom of which must be laid out with compost. Moisten everything well, cover with burlap or paper cloth and a board, then leave for 1 week. After that, you can get the worms attracted by the bait from the groove.
Cultivation of technological types of earthworms
As a cultivator for breeding earthworms, any containers are suitable: a box, an old bath, etc. Such a nursery can also be arranged directly on the ground, forming a bulk bed. The bottom of the resulting container should be covered with a layer of compost, the thickness of which should be at least 40 cm. Its surface must be leveled and moistened. The level of humidity is considered sufficient if 2-3 drops of water seep out of a lump clenched in a fist.
The size of the cultivator intended for breeding earthworms can be small - 2 × 2 m. It is first filled with a layer of compost, and then with a wet substrate. Everything is covered with burlap, straw or perforated black plastic wrap. In this form, the substrate must be left for 7 days. From time to time it should be sprinkled with water to maintain the required moisture regime and remove ammonia and salt residues contained in fertilizers.
After that, in the middle of each conditional square of the substrate 1 × 1 m in size, they dig a recess into which earthworms are laid out. Having leveled the surface, everything is covered with a layer of straw or burlap. After 1 day, compost with worms is abundantly sprinkled with water. In drought and hot weather, the cultivator filler should be moistened as often as possible.
The proposed method of colonizing the substrate with worms is good because it allows them to easily adapt to new conditions and food for them. After 7–10 days, you need to check whether the worms have mastered the new substrate. You can find out by their appearance: the bodies of the worms must be clean, and they themselves must be active. If individuals remain motionless, this means that they are affected by a disease or suffer from an excess of pesticides in the substrate. In this case, it would be advisable to replace the population and compost. In the future, under the condition of normal adaptation to new conditions, the worms can be left without control for 3–4 weeks. From time to time, as needed, you should only moisten the substrate. The water used for this must be the same temperature as the air. Failure to comply with this rule is often the cause of the development of fright and shock in earthworms, which, in turn, leads to a decrease in their vital activity. Pre-water should be defended for 1 day to release chlorine and some heating.
Only after the worms are fully adapted to the new substrate will cocoons appear, each of which can contain up to 21 embryos. Newborn individuals differ from the nematode in the red thread of the blood vessel running along the back. Earthworms usually lay the last cocoons of the season before the end of July, and the last generation of the year is born at the end of August.
In order for earthworms to grow and develop normally, you will need to provide them with enough food. The compost mass acts as it, which needs to be replenished in a timely manner (on average with an interval of 2-3 weeks). The thickness of the additional layer should be at least 15 cm. The first feeding of the worms should be done in early June, and the final one in late October or early November, before the onset of the first frost.
With the advent of cold weather, earthworms become less active. At an air temperature of -6 ° C, they stop eating. With further cooling, they gradually fall into hibernation. If the soil freezes, the worms also freeze. However, this condition does not pose a threat to their lives.
During the season of active life of earthworms, up to 8 new layers are added to the compost mass, and its height by the beginning of autumn can be 50–60 cm. It is loose enough to provide oxygen access to its different levels. However, in a compost substrate of this height, it is difficult to maintain the required level of moisture. In order to ensure its preservation, it is recommended to strengthen the side walls of the beds with boards.
In one garden season, with the help of earthworms, you can get up to 1 ton of biohumus. It accumulates mainly in the lower layer of the substrate.
For the winter period, earthworms intended for reproduction in the next season are prepared as follows. To do this, individuals are selected from the upper, most densely populated level of the compost, and laid out on the surface of the soil in a neighboring site. It is covered with a layer of compost mass at least 40 cm thick. The resulting bed must be strengthened from the sides wooden planks. It is advisable to carry out such an event in the first week of November - before the onset of frost.
The resulting bed with earthworms is subsequently covered with a layer of snow and compacted well to prevent small rodents from penetrating into the thickness. As a protective shield against mice in winter period spruce spruce flooring or metal mesh can be used. In addition, a cultivator with worms can be surrounded around the perimeter with asbestos cement slabs dug into the ground or sheets of roofing iron.
Used during the gardening season, the cultivator also needs protection in the winter. It can be left uninsulated, but it is recommended to periodically moisten in order to achieve deep freezing of the mass. This will help keep rodents out of the compost heap.
Ways to save earthworms in the ground
The biohumus substrate used for fertilizing garden crops can contain a large number of earthworms. However, when exposed to natural soil conditions in an open area, most of them die. The rest, having adapted to the unusual composition of the soil, will live and give offspring. This is how a new population of worms, which are characterized by high viability, will begin to exist.
In order for earthworms to remain on the site for a long time and maintain the physico-chemical properties of the soil on it, it is necessary to provide them with moisture and food. Experienced gardeners recommend arranging an additional "dining room" for earthworms in raspberries. To do this, the soil under the bushes is mulched, covering with chopped straw, leaves, hay, etc. Such measures will also help increase the yield of raspberries.
Speaking about the living conditions of earthworms, it should be noted that they are especially demanding on moisture. The soil moisture level should be at least 30%. Otherwise, earthworms die very quickly. They tolerate soil flooding quite easily and are able to survive even in periodically flooded meadows for several weeks.
Earthworm populations, distributed over garden plot are in need of care and attention. To preserve them, first of all, care must be taken when digging the soil. The assertion that individuals cut to pieces by a shovel are able to survive is a common misconception. In order not to kill the worms, it is recommended to dig the soil not with a shovel, but with the help of special forks.
Another factor that has a negative impact on the abundance and viability of earthworm populations is increased soil density. The soil should always be sufficiently loose and soft. Earthworms can only exist with free access to air and appropriate humidity.
For normal life, earthworms require soils whose salinity does not exceed 0.5%. Thus, in order to preserve their population, ash should be used as a top dressing with great care. To do this, it is recommended to take a weak solution (200 g of dry matter per 10 liters of water), which can be used to moisten the compost heap.
As noted above, the optimal conditions for earthworms are neutral soils, the pH of which is 6.5–7.5. Too acidic or alkaline soils have a detrimental effect on them. If necessary, the acid-base balance of the soil can be leveled by adding lime, chalk or dolomite flour.
In order to maintain favorable conditions for earthworms on the site, it is not recommended to burn garbage and plant waste on it. Their death in the ground on the site where the fire was made is caused by an increase in temperature, the formation of excess ash and smoke. In addition, after heating, the soil becomes excessively dense and poor in nutrients.
In addition to creating special conditions for earthworms to live in the garden, it is important to ensure that they do not have enemies. These include moles, birds, frogs, toads, shrews, rats, pigs, badgers, kids, lambs and calves. Most often, they overtake worms when digging the soil in vegetable gardens and at night, when they crawl out to the surface.
The greatest danger to earthworms on garden plots represents a mole that traps its prey underground. To eliminate them, it is recommended to use special devices - mole catchers.
In addition, pesticides used to treat plants and soil cause significant harm to earthworms: fungicidal, herbicidal and insecticidal preparations. In order to maintain soil fertility and earthworm populations, pest and weed control requires the use of the latest biological agents. One of them is biohumus.
Ways to use biohumus
As mentioned earlier, the humic substance contains water-soluble humates, which include potassium, lithium and sodium humates. They are especially important for the normal growth and development of plants, as they are absorbed first. Even their low content in humus causes an increase in the rate of seed germination, activation of the formation of chlorophyll, and makes the process of photosynthesis more intense.
The described humates are characterized by non-toxicity (including embryological). In addition, they are not able to accumulate carcinogens and mutate. Their use to increase soil fertility should be considered a highly effective and environmentally friendly method, since even weak residues of such components cannot be found in plants.
Among the advantages of biohumus is also the possibility of its use in combination with any kind of mineral fertilizers. Moreover, it has the ability to increase the effect of their impact. It is known that the complex use of worm compost and minerals can increase the yield of horticultural crops by 20–35%. In addition, at the same time, there is a reduction in the ripening time of fruits and an increase in their biological qualities (for example, an increase in the amount of sugars, oils, carotene and vegetable protein included in their composition).
The degree of effectiveness of the use of humates contained in worm compost is the highest during the period of crop growth and the main development processes (flowering, fruiting, seed ripening). In addition, the use of this fertilizer is justified in case of deterioration of external conditions - with frost, drought, oxygen starvation of plants or excessive nitrogen content in the soil. Humic components cause the activation of the processes of decomposition of toxins, which, in turn, reduces the level of their concentration in fruits and seeds.
In other words, the humates present in vermicompost should be defined as substances that make it possible to minimize the effect of poisons and prevent their penetration into agricultural products. That is why the use of worm compost in agriculture and horticulture at the present time - in a period of low environmental safety, is becoming so popular.
As noted above, vermicompost allows you to reduce the ripening time of fruits. This is especially true for the central regions of the Non-Chernozem Far East and Siberia, where climatic conditions are unfavorable for the development of agriculture. It is known that the use of worm compost helps to reduce the duration of ripening of vegetables, fruits, berries and flowers by 12–15 days. In addition, improving the quality of the soil with the help of biohumus will significantly develop horticulture and horticulture in the northern regions with a harsh climate.
Biohumus, harvested in autumn and left for the winter period in piles, with the advent of spring and after the establishment of warm weather, must be cleared of snow. After that, it should be left to thaw and air. Fertilizer is considered ready if it crumbles and crumbles during compression.
Before use, debris should be removed from the biohumus mass (fragments of branches, tree bark, pebbles, pieces of metal, etc.). For this it is convenient to use metal mesh with cells no larger than 10 × 10 mm. Thus, it is necessary to prepare the amount of substance necessary for fertilizing the site. You can do this in the fall. For storage of sifted biohumus, it is recommended to use wooden boxes or plastic bags, which, after filling, should be left indoors (in the house, basement, shed or on the balcony).
Biohumus can be used not only for feeding plants planted on the site, but also for growing seedlings of horticultural crops. For this purpose, mix 1 part of dry worm compost and 2 parts garden soil. The resulting mass is then filled into containers. Thus, you can get seedlings of cucumbers, tomatoes, cabbage, sweet peppers, eggplants, etc.
Vermicompost is part of a special aqueous solution, which is recommended for seed germination and seedling irrigation. In the latter case, an aqueous extract of biohumus should be prepared. To do this, dry worm compost (200 g) is poured into water room temperature(10 l), mix thoroughly and incubate for 1 day. The finished solution should have the color of weakly brewed tea. The sediment remaining at the bottom of the container can be put into pots with indoor flowers.
It is best to water the horticultural crops growing on the site with a biohumus solution prepared in a ratio of 200 g of dry matter per 400 ml of water. They can irrigate not only seedlings, vegetables, but also fruit trees and shrubs. It was noticed that such irrigation allows to increase the yield of crops by 33-35% and reduce the fruit ripening period to 15 days.
Often a solution prepared on the basis of vermicompost is used for spraying. fruit bushes and trees. At the same time, it is better to process apple trees during the formation of flower buds, after the flowering period, on initial stage fall of the ovary and during the intensive development of the fruit. Spraying them with a biohumus solution will increase the yield and improve the quality of the fruits, which will be more tasty and fragrant.
Such treatment of apple, sweet cherry, plum and cherry with the use of a solution of vermicompost during the formation of flower buds helps to increase the yield of not only the current, but also the next season. To do this, it should be combined with mulching and the introduction of worm compost. The thickness of the mulch layer should be at least 2 cm. This method of feeding gives good results when growing crops such as currants, gooseberries, raspberries and grapes.
Organic biohumus fertilizer can be successfully used to increase the yield of fruit, green horticultural and flower crops. It is added to the main substrate when growing seedlings. In addition, when applied to the ground, it contributes to the rapid adaptation of dived seedlings and the formation of strong, lush and intensely colored inflorescences and green parts.
The worm compost also has a positive effect on the root system of flower crops. It was noticed that it is thanks to him that the growth and development of the roots and the aerial part of the cuttings planted in the ground are activated.
It should be noted that biohumus can be used as top dressing not only in the form of a solution, but also in a dry form. Even with repeated use in a significant amount, the effect of supersaturation will not occur. The more it is introduced into the soil, the more fertile it will be subsequently.
Below are the approximate norms for the use of worm compost when growing a particular horticultural crop.
Seedling (any). When picking seedlings, no more than 1–2 handfuls of biohumus are added to each well.
Seedling of cucumbers. After planting material is planted, the soil under each stem is mulched with vermicompost, laying it in a layer up to 2 cm thick.
Seedling of tomatoes. After planting the material, 0.5–1 l of biohumus solution should be poured under each stem.
Seedlings of cabbage and sweet pepper. Before planting seedlings, up to 250 ml of vermicompost solution mixed with soil should be poured into each well.
Potato seedling. When planting, add 0.5–2 liters of worm compost solution to each well.
Strawberry. In the early spring, the area with strawberries should be mulched with biohumus, which should be laid in a layer 1–2 cm thick. When planting strawberries, up to 200 ml of vermicompost solution is added to each well.
Fruit trees. For current feeding without preliminary digging of the soil, worm compost is introduced, laying it out in a layer of up to 3 cm under each tree. Before planting seedlings, up to 4 liters of vermicompost solution is poured into each hole, which is then thoroughly mixed with the soil.
Fruit bushes. Before planting seedlings, at least 3 liters of worm compost solution must be added to each planting hole, which must be mixed well with the soil. With the current top dressing, no more than 1 liter of biohumus solution per 1 m 2 is added.
Garlic. When planting it before winter, the soil is fertilized with a solution of vermicompost at the rate of up to 1 liter of the substance per 1 m 2, embedded in the soil to a depth of 10 cm.
Ornamental and coniferous shrubs and trees. Before planting, at least 3 liters of worm compost solution should be added to each well. It must be well mixed with the soil.
flower cultures. With current top dressing, flower crops are treated monthly, adding up to 300 ml of vermicompost solution under each stem or up to 1 liter of such a solution per 1 m 2.
Harvest or grow blooming garden impossible without doing improvement of soil fertility. Soil fertility is provided by living beings, which are found in large numbers in healthy soil, and soil fertility is improved by creating more comfortable conditions for the existence of these microorganisms.
The vital activity of these living beings is provided organic matter, air and water. The organic substances processed by these microorganisms combine with the mineral constituents of the soil and become nutrients for plants.
If synthetic mineral fertilizers have been applied to the soil for a long time, then almost all soil life dies in it, the microflora, and with it the earth, becomes dead.
Just as a newborn child raised on artificial milk often has health problems, plants grown on artificial fertility often lose their health. defensive reactions to pathogens and pests.
When soil fertility needs to be improved.
The soil is oversaturated with mineral fertilizers and therefore contains little soil microflora.
The soil is heavy with a low content of organic matter and soil microflora.
Sandy soil, poor in nutrients and organic matter and not able to prevent the evaporation of water.
Waterlogged soil, which is usually nutrient deficient, acidic and wet.
Compacted soil that has become so after construction.
Before improving soil fertility, you need to find out what type it belongs to. To do this, you need to take a shovel and check if there are earthworms in the ground, which are indicators that the ground is “alive”. If you take a lump of soil in your palm and squeeze it, then the sand will pass between your fingers, the loam is easily squeezed and crumbled, and the clay will turn into a sausage.
In any case, soil fertility can be improved by using organic matter to improve soil quality and natural minerals. To increase the air permeability of the soil, it is very important to loosen it regularly.
Moist soil is very difficult to loosen, it is difficult to mix it with means to improve soil fertility. When processing wet soil in the garden, there is a danger of closing the pores through which water and air pass into the soil. Such work should be carried out when the soil is dry.
A good way to improve soil fertility is a mixture of mowed grass and chopped leaves, which is obtained in the fall in the lawn mower's grass collector. With this mixture in late autumn, you can cover the beds or simply add to the soil.
Means for improving soil fertility.
Compost - improves the condition of the soil and revitalizes the soil microflora.
Sand - loosens loamy and clay soils, improves water permeability.
Peat - improves water absorption in all types of soils, loosens heavy soils.
Composted manure - contains a large amount of nitrogen, increases the permeability of the soil.
Carbonated lime, shell rock - revitalizes the microflora, helps the absorption of nutrients.
Leaf compost - makes the soil fertile and crumbly, contains a lot of potassium and nitrogen.
Activated Mineral Powder (commercially available) - improves the ability of sandy soils to retain moisture.
Soil fertility improvement new garden.
A few days before creating a new bed, the soil needs to be watered. This should be done for uncultivated and heavy soils.
Treat the soil with a cultivator cutter, making even furrows.
Over the entire area of the cultivated area, it is necessary to evenly distribute funds to improve soil fertility.
With the help of a cultivator cutter, you need to mix with the soil the means to improve soil fertility.
The surface of the bed is leveled with a rake and watered abundantly so that the soil sags. After a couple of weeks, you can start planting.
Increases soil microflora and creates good conditions for plant growth.
Video - improving soil fertility.
