When and how to prune pear trees. Pruning pear trees in spring, summer and autumn
A good harvest of pears is the result proper care, which necessarily includes the regular and timely deletion of unnecessary branches. Knowing the rules and features of pear pruning in the spring will help create a tree Better conditions for the growth and formation of fruits.
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Why is spring pruning necessary?
In the absence of pruning, the plant tends to expel vertical shoots and stretch strongly in height. This worsens yields and weakens the ability to resist diseases and frosts. Regular removal of damaged and redundant branchesspend, hto extend the fruiting period and improve the conditions for growing fruits.
The main purposes of pruning:
- the formation of a strong skeletal base;
- uniform distribution of branches in the crown;
- maintaining the desired size of the branched part of the plant, convenient for maintenance and harvesting;
- providing access to light and air inside the crown - with their lack, the formation and growth of buds in shaded places may slow down and stop;
- reducing the risk of damage by diseases and pests;
- rejuvenation of mature and old trees, extension of the fruiting period.
The video shows the formation of the crown by bending the branches. Filmed by the channel Himself Gardener.
Trimming types
Pruning differs in terms of the timing and nature of the work performed, can be grouped into three main areas:
- formative;
- sanitary;
- supporting (rejuvenating).
Formative
This species is carried out mainly on seedlings and young pears. The timely and correct formative pruning determines how the tree will grow and develop. The correct distribution of skeletal and overgrowing branches contributes to the early onset of fruiting and the formation of full-fledged fruits. On adult plants, this method includes the removal of tops on the main branches.
Excessive growth of shoots is stopped by shortening pruning. It is made mainly for young plantings. The branched part of the tree is formed more compact, bushy.
You should first choose one of several types of crowns for a pear based on growing conditions and your preferences. The most common are sparse-tiered and cupped crowns.
Sparse-tiered crown
This common in cultivation fruit trees crown type is close to natural forms. On the trunk, the branches are arranged in groups (tiers) of two or three pieces and singly.
The crown begins to form in early spring in a one-year-old seedling. On the main conductor, 50 cm are laid from the surface of the earth - this is the trunk zone. If it is reduced, it will be inconvenient to care for an adult tree in the future. An enlarged bole makes the tree trunk vulnerable to frost and sunburn. Another 30-40 cm are measured above the trunk, on which the skeletal branches of the first tier will be located, and the conductor is cut off. A cut is made over a healthy, developed kidney - it will give rise to a continuation of the trunk. During the formation of the crown, the central shoot is left 15-20 cm above the level of the lateral branches.
When pruning a pear tree, the cut must be done correctly, without hemp, otherwise the conductor will further growth may veer to the side. Shoots competing with it are cut off as they appear.
Correct and incorrect pruning of the shoot above the kidney
In the spring of next year, the trunk is cleared of overgrowth. In the first tier, three strong shoots are left at intervals along the trunk of 10-15 cm. They are cut in length at approximately the same horizontal level. It is desirable that they grow evenly around the circumference with an angle of 100-120 º between themselves. Other side branches are cut or temporarily bent to a position parallel to the ground. This will slow down their growth and increase the chance of fruiting. Twigs up to 30 cm long can be left - they are more prone to fruit set than to growth.
In the third year, after 50-70 cm from the lower tier, the next one is laid - two or three future skeletal branches. Repeat the same steps as in the formation of the first tier. When the conductor has grown excessively, it is shortened. Bent branches are not touched, and if they thicken the crown, they are shortened or cut out.
In the spring of the fourth year, after another 40 cm from the second tier, one or two shoots of the third level can be identified. After a year or two, the stem conductor is shortened to the upper lateral skeletal branch. It is undesirable to make the height of the formed crown higher than 4-4.5 m.
Formation of a sparse-tiered crown over the years
Cupped crown
There are regular and improved cupped crowns. In the usual main branches originate very close to each other. In the improved one - with an interval of 15-20 cm. The trunk area is made 50-60 cm in size.
At annual seedlings frame branches of the crown are formed from 3-4 lateral shoots. Their symmetrical distribution around the trunk is desirable. Other processes are removed, the main conductor is shortened to the upper side branch. Skeletal shoots are shortened: the upper ones by 10-15 cm, the middle ones by 20-25 cm and the lower ones by 30-35 cm. Pruning to expand the crown is done on the outer bud. It is desirable to direct the upper branch to the north, this will not allow it to stretch unnecessarily.
In the second year in spring, pruning is reduced to a minimum to limit the growth of excess shoots and bring fruiting dates closer. Shoots growing vertically or inside the crown, as well as thickening ones, are removed. Skeletal branches, if necessary, are slightly shortened. The direction of their growth can be changed by cutting off the conductor above the branch pointing in the desired direction. On the skeletal branches, two shoots are selected to make branches of the second order out of them, and shorten them. Branches competing with conductors are removed.
In the third year, skeletal branches, if necessary, are again cut to the outer bud, expanding the crown. Branches of the second order, overtaking the main ones in growth, are shortened. Shoots directed inside the crown are cut out completely or left two buds high. In the central part of the crown, small branches with fruits are evenly driven out.
Correct cutting angle
supportive
Maintenance pruning is carried out on adult plants during March and the first decade of April. Every year, excess shoots are removed from the entire crown. Be sure to remove young shoots growing vertically. Separate branches are shortened by a third to enhance the forcing of fruit twigs. To reduce the load on the plant, parts of large and old branches are removed.
crown pruning old pear
The main branches of the tree are shortened. They should not be left longer than 4 meters, because under the weight of the fruit they will lean towards the ground. Then, thinning pruning is carried out, removing the thickening or inward-directed growth of the crown. You can safely cut old thick branches that bear little fruit - their productive capabilities are depleted. It is better to replace them with new shoots.
Activities after pruning
At the end of the work, all pruned branches should be removed from the tree, and it is better to burn the sick at the first opportunity. Places of cuts are treated with garden pitch or painted over oil paint. This prevents the penetration of infections and pests, reduces losses nutrients during sap flow. At temperatures below 8 ° C, it is better to use paint - garden pitch does not adhere well to wood.
There is no person who does not know the taste of a pear. These juicy and sweet fruits will not leave anyone indifferent. And what compotes and jams are obtained from them!
Nowadays pear can be found in almost any garden plot.
This tree, like any plant in the garden, requires some care. So that year after year it gives good harvest, you need not only watering and fertilizer, but also competent pruning.
Since the pear belongs to a light-loving culture, it is necessary to monitor the density of its crown.
What gives the correct pear pruning:
- abundant regular fruiting;
- further development of culture;
- creating a strong skeleton;
- convenience in harvesting;
- good access when spraying.
It is necessary to form a crown so that several fruit branches remain on each skeletal branch.
If pruning is done irregularly or incorrectly, then the crown will be compacted, as the tree will begin to give all its strength to the cultivation of young shoots. This will lead to a decrease in yield and a decrease in the size of the fruit.
Another plus of timely pruning of branches: the pear tree is quite tall, and pruning branches will stop its growth upwards. Thanks to this, others garden trees and bushes will get more sunlight.
Cut the pear, instructions for beginners:
When is the best time to prune the shoots and branches of a tree
You can cut the pear spring, summer, autumn, and even winter. Pruning at certain times of the year serves its purpose.
summer care
Summer is done only when absolutely necessary. It happens that in the spring, when pruning, they looked through several branches, and they began to develop intensively, shading the fruits that had already appeared on other pruned branches. In this case, summer pruning is possible.
A day after the “operation”, it is necessary to cover the cut with garden pitch or a special putty, which is sold in any gardening store.
Also at this time pinching of young shoots is carried out. It is much easier to remove them now, before they become stiff, in addition, thanks to this pruning, leaf buds are transformed into fruit buds.
Can branches be pruned in winter?
Winter pruning has some advantage. It lies in the fact that at this time of the year, when it is cold outside, all plants, including the pear, are in "sleep mode".
Therefore, the inflicted wounds are much easier to tolerate, healing occurs faster, and in the absence of sap, the wood becomes more pliable.
The best month for winter pruning is February. The most optimum temperature- not higher than -15.
Pruning scheme in spring
Spring pruning pear is considered the most important for the plant., it guarantees a good harvest. In the spring, as you know, the buds are born. This requires sunlight.
If in some place the crown turned out to be thickened, then a darkening will be created, respectively, there will be no flower buds there, which means there will be no fruits.
To avoid this, pruning should begin with a one-year-old seedling when its height reaches 50-60 cm.
You need to cut the top about a quarter of the length, which will stimulate the lower branches to grow and form the correct crown. The branches in the neighborhood are cut "on the ring".
Trimming "on the ring" is done clearly according to a kind of influx located at the very base of the branch. If you leave a large knot, this will lead to decay, and if you remove the branch flush, then the wound will heal for a very long time.
The branches that serve as the basis of the trunk should be left, they should not be more than four.
As the tree matures, there are fewer young shoots on it. To correct this situation and increase the number of young shoots on an aging tree, it is necessary to regularly trim the crown, rejuvenate it.
Its purpose is to remove weak and diseased old branches. Sections must be covered with pitch or paint.
But it is also impossible to be late with this either, it is important to have time to prune before the circulation of tree sap begins.
After spring pruning should not be applied under the pear nitrogen fertilizers . This can adversely affect the taste of the fruit. After hibernation, the tree itself actively draws everything useful material from the earth.
pear pruning:
How you can and should cut a pear in the fall, rejuvenate it
Need to treat autumn pruning with great care. Winter is ahead, if too many branches are removed, it will be difficult for the tree to survive the coming frosts.
The fact is that in September(namely, this is the best time for autumn pruning) tree sap continues to circulate, although it becomes slower.
The tree will begin to spend its reserves on winter period substances to "heal" the wounds left after pruning.
The scheme of the correct autumn pruning pear:
- First, remove dry and diseased branches so that in winter, when they fall, they do not cripple healthy branches.
- Find branches growing at right angles to the trunk and remove them too.
- Remove branches that interfere with fruit development. The remaining branches, which seem superfluous, should only be shortened in order to remove them next year.
- Do not leave large knots, but cut off “on a ring” (see above).
A young pear should be pruned every fall, or even twice a year, starting from the second year after planting. Reason: slow growth and poor cold winter tolerance.
mature trees early varieties ripening can be cut from the second half of August until September 15-20. The procedure is the same:
- removal of damaged branches;
- thinning of the thickened crown;
- removal of branches affected by the disease;
- shortening of shoots not older than one year.
In more late deadline shortening is not recommended, as the possibility of freezing of shortened branches increases, which will lead to a decrease in yield.
Autumn pear pruning is the most effective method bring back a good harvest from an aging tree. This pruning can be called rejuvenating.
In addition, if earlier it was not necessary to form the correct crown, then such pruning will provide an opportunity for thinning, which will lead to the appearance of young fruitful shoots.
If the pear is over 18 years old, then it is recommended to trim it once every five years.
How to form a crown of a columnar pear
Not so long ago, in Russian gardens began to appear columnar pear, which has already managed to win the hearts of our gardeners. She differs from her tall "sisters" in her unpretentious care.
The main advantages of a columnar pear:
- always gives a rich harvest;
- more trees can be planted on the same piece of land;
- takes root well;
- gives large fruits;
- resistant to various diseases;
- frost-resistant.
The disadvantages of this pear include the necessary regular pruning, as it is needed to maintain the specific shape and size of the tree. Another drawback is the short period of fruiting (about ten years).
In the first year after planting the pear should not be allowed to bloom so that the seedling gains strength for further growth.
Need next year make sure that a maximum of two flowers remain in one inflorescence to prevent the young tree from overloading with fruits.
Tip for beginner gardeners: before pruning, you need to pay attention to the apical bud. If it is healthy, then the tree has a central conductor.
If this kidney is damaged, then other shoots appear. Of these, the strongest should be left, the rest should be removed.
Columnar pear should not be circumcised often in order to prevent the increased formation of branches. At young tree shoots should not be cut, but shortened, not forgetting to leave a pair of buds.
This should be done in autumn. Most importantly, remove all growing in hand side shoots. The central conductor can be cut in only one case: if its development is not enough. Then two or three kidneys should be left.
Although pear requires constant care and causes a lot of trouble with pruning, she gives all of herself without a trace with her divine fruits, giving the gardener joy and enjoyment of the results of his work.
Many gardeners prefer not to prune pear trees, because under other favorable conditions, the pear tree often forms an acceptable crown itself, which makes it possible to get a completely normal crop. However, if you want to get the maximum from a fruit tree, to extend its life, then you should periodically carry out timely pruning pears, which is usually recommended to be carried out in the spring.
Why prune a pear: the purpose and objectives of pruning
So, the main and ultimate goal of pruning a pear (like any other plant) is to increase the quantity and quality of the crop, as well as taking care of the health of the tree itself (so that it bears fruit for as long as possible).
Thus, by cutting a pear, you solve the following tasks aimed at achieving the above goal:
- improved access to sunlight;
- ensuring optimal ventilation inside the crown;
- disease prevention.
In other words, pear pruning is carried out in order to:
- correctly form a tree so that it has a comfortable crown and gives stable yields;
Also, thanks to the formation of the correct crown by cutting it behind the tree, it becomes convenient to take care of and the most important thing - harvest.
- adjust the growth of the tree, i.e. increase or decrease;
- eliminate the frequency of fruiting (so that there is no situation when the plant bears fruit one year and not the next);
- improve the quality of the fruit (after proper pruning, the fruit becomes larger and more tasty).
Optimalspring pruning timing
Spring pruning of a pear must be done before the movement of juice begins in the shoots (i.e. before bud break).
Arguably! At the same time, some gardeners advise to carry out the procedure when sub-zero temperatures are still confidently holding (but not lower than -10 degrees), while others recommend that the air temperature, on the contrary, be positive (about +5). In any case, the duration of the pruning period is until the buds open.
Of course, it is rather difficult to indicate the exact dates: spring in different regions Depending on the climate, it starts at different time. The main thing is to be in time before the start of sap flow.
However, one can call approximate dates . So, pruning of pears in the spring in the Middle lane (Moscow region), as a rule, is carried out already at the end of March - beginning of April, in the South of Russia - at the end of February-March. And in the more northern (in the North-West - in Leningrad region) and cold regions (in the Urals and Siberia), spring pruning of pears is carried out in the second half of April.
When is the best time to prune - in spring or autumn
According to most agronomists, the most best time for pruning fruit trees early spring, and you need to catch the moment before sap flow. Also, the shorter the time between pruning and sap flow, the better. In addition to saving energy, with the beginning of sap flow, the tree’s own defense mechanisms are “turned on”, which means that pathogenic organisms have practically no chance of penetrating inside the “tree system”.
As for autumn pruning, it noticeably weakens all trees, their winter hardiness decreases. Therefore, it is believed that in autumn only winter-hardy breeds (varieties) that tolerate frost well and are not at all afraid of freezing can be cut.
Note! There is a rather indisputable opinion that in autumn only pome crops (apple trees, pears) can be cut, but stone fruits (peaches, apricots, plums, cherries) - only in spring.
In addition, in autumn, trees, on the contrary, suspend all active defense (their own defense mechanisms), while fungal spores fly in myriads. And when frost sets in, the cambium freezes over, and the healing of the wound is difficult.
So cut the pear better in spring, they resort to autumn pruning only if you have little time in the spring, or / and the variety is frost-resistant enough.
As far as time is concerned, autumn pruning pears can be started when all the leaves of the tree have completely fallen off. At the same time, it is important that the air temperature is positive. The fact is that pruning must be completely stopped already at a temperature of -5 degrees, since the wood freezes and becomes brittle and brittle.
Each novice gardener must first understand the structure and structure of his pear tree himself, in order to better understand the basic rules for pruning it. And, of course, to have in your country arsenal all required tools. Let's start with them.
Required Tools
To perform pear pruning work, you will need the following tools and means for treating wounds after pruning:
Advice! All tools must be in proper and prepared condition - the pruner must be sharp (sharpened) and clean (and even better, disinfect it before cutting).
Tree structure: its structure
Before you start pruning, carefully inspect your pear tree, its silhouette. And then figure out which branches obviously look superfluous (in accordance with the rules below) and only then proceed to pruning.
According to the rules, any tree should have a balanced or, more precisely, a crown that is evenly branched in all directions.
Thus, in order to prune according to all the rules, you need to know the structure of the tree, so you should first study and understand its structure:
Which branches are to be removed and pruned: what to cut
First, consider which branches are subject to complete removal and which ones need to be trimmed.
ATTENTION! Be sure to read the material to the end, and only after that proceed with trimming your pear.
In order not to harm the plant instead of benefit, you must strictly follow the rules for pruning pear in the spring.
Trimming types
And first, let's get acquainted with the types of cropping:
- Sanitary- used to clean the crown of a pear from diseased, dried and broken branches. It is carried out as needed, regardless of the season.
Interesting! Thinning and shortening more often called ways, not views pruning.
- thinning- is carried out to rid the tree of excess shoots that thicken and obscure the crown. In this case, the branches are removed completely “on the ring”.
Remember! The more light will fall on the branches, so higher will productivity. A no thickening and good air circulation inside the branches - reliable protection against fungal diseases.
- Shortening (stimulating) - during such pruning, the shoots are not cut off completely “into a ring”, but only shortened by a certain “bud” (usually by 3 buds), which helps to increase the branching of skeletal branches and stimulate fruit formations, as well as to subordinate branches (i.e. You can shorten both annual growth and perennial branches).
There are 3 types of shortening: strong (by 1/3), medium (1/4) and weak (1/5). Strong - for the formation of strong shoots, weak - for laying fruit wood.
- Formative- helps form the crown correct form and create a strong tree skeleton. It is used for young trees and, as a rule, especially in the spring.
- Anti-aging- used for old trees in order to rejuvenate them. In this case, as a rule, it is carried out in several stages every spring.
Separate paragraphs will be devoted to shaping and rejuvenating pruning, and then we will analyze the basic rules for the first three types (or 1 type and 2 methods) of pruning, which are carried out for pears of all ages (especially for old ones).
Sanitary pruning
- First of all, you need to remove all diseased branches. And they need to be set aside separately, and then destroyed, burned.
Important! Bbare must be cut to healthy wood. However, it is desirable to do so "on the ring" method "for translation".
- Also, all broken and broken branches, which are most likely also affected by some kind of disease.
Thinning crop
- First, you need to get rid of all crooked branches(growing through other branches or crossing, " rubbing against each other") and from branches growing inside the crown that shade the good branches.
By the way! Such branches can be removed completely (by cutting “on the ring”), or you can transfer “to fruiting” by cutting off “on the kidney”, while it should look outward (if you do the opposite, the operation will be meaningless).
- Branches that grow at a very sharp angle (i.e., the angle of departure is less than 40-45 degrees) and form the so-called "forks" are absolutely not needed, they are also cut out (due to the load of fruits, the branch can simply crack and form a strong wound).
- As you understood from the figure above, in addition, you need cut off all branches growing down(obtuse angle).
- Subject to removal all tops(vertical shoots on skeletal branches, they are also called " wen"), and root suckers.
- Also need to cut all shoots below the first tier(so they don't hang directly above the ground).
In short, to be pruned all unnecessary and interfering branches, which thicken and shade the crown, and also make it difficult to ventilate the tree.
- Very important leave no competing branches(or thus replace the old ones with new ones), cutting them off "for translation".
This is especially true for branches that compete with the conductor (main trunk). For example, if they have already become the same thickness, and both tend upward.
However, thick branches should not be cut in one year. It is better to first remove most of the branches of the second order, and the next year to get rid of the competitor completely.
Shortening pruning
- For the best branching and stimulation of fruit formations need to be shortened "on the kidney" All continuation branches — annual growth 1/3 (for the outer kidney) or even better for 3 kidneys.
formation of fruit formations
Note! There is no need to shorten the already short branches (up to 35-40 cm), on the tips of which there are flower (fruit) buds - they carry the entire crop. Long (more than 40-50 cm) growth branches (with growth buds) are subject to pruning. In this case, it is recommended to cut to the third kidney. When pruning just on the outer bud, the shoot continues to grow in the same direction. And only the third kidney, if left outside, gives a good deviation to the side.
Thus, by pruning a tree, you can change its branching direction. Namely, it is necessary that the pear dominated by horizontal branches, from vertical either you need get rid of completely or artificially redirect them.
Advice! It is not necessary to cut all good vertically growing branches. To give them more horizontal position, they can bend down, pulling the rope down and tie it to a peg in the ground or directly to a tree.
In general, it is believed that in a pear, in principle, it is very important to bend the branches even more than an apple tree. The angle must be strictly greater than 45 degrees. If an apple tree on branches with an angle of less than 45 degrees can still bear fruit, then a pear does not.
Video: spring pruning pears
How to crop: direct cropping rules
Now let's look at exactly how to act during pruning: how to hold the pruner and how to cut the branches directly.
Advice! Pruner cutting blade should be always down.
Wrong, If the secateurs are facing the shoot down with an emphasis, not a blade.
- When you delete branch completely, then the cut is made “on the ring” (most often “on the transfer”), When cut only part, That "on the kidney".
Worth knowing! Do not get carried away with pruning "on the kidney", because. many small cuts weaken the tree much more than several large ones.
- The essence of pruning "on the kidney" lies in the fact that when you, for example, thin out the crown, it is not at all necessary to cut the young branch completely. It is much more efficient to cut it to the outer bud (looking outward up, and not inward or downward) to change the direction of its growth. In this case, it is necessary to cut in such a way that the top of the cut reaches the top of the kidney, and the base of the cut is at the level of the base of the kidney. Then the cut will heal well.
Important! Need to cut on the growth (vegetative) kidney, but not on the flower (fruit). See differences above (vegetative less than fruit).
- Trimming "on the ring". The point is that you need to cut the branches along the trunk, more precisely, the saw line should pass along the bisector between the axis of the trunk and be perpendicular to the branch (along the annular influx);
Important! When pruning old and thick branches on the "ring" follow the rule of three cuts (cuts):
- It is always necessary to cut down a branch from below, otherwise it may break under its own weight (gravity), which causes a bark scuff (similar to a torn burr on a finger). Thus, during the first cut, the branch is cut off by 1/3.
- The next gash is already done from above, while it is noticeably higher than the first. As a result, the branch is cut off completely (otherwise it may break off).
- As a result, you will form a stump, which will need to be cut down with the third gash, while making it exactly “along the ring” on top (perpendicular to the trunk of the branch), leaving an annular overlap.
If burrs remain, they should be cut with a sharp garden knife.
Only in this way will you get a neat and correct cut.
- cut branches "on the ring" need to only for translation, i.e., on a branch or shoot, which will further provide the cut with nutrients and heal it. In this case, the branch (shoot) of the support should not be thinner than 1/3 of the cut diameter.
Advice! If it (the new supply branch) is thinner, then along the periphery of the cut (at a distance of at least 7 cm from each other), it is recommended to graft (implant) additional cuttings. When they take root, they will act as support branches, protect and help heal the wound.
- The cut must be balanced. If severely cut, the plant will give many shoots and the yield will be low. If, on the contrary, pruning is weak, then the harvest will be too much and there may be a periodicity of fruiting (there will be nothing next year). Usually, at once recommended cut no more than 1/4-1/3 of the crown, this especially applies to old trees, including when they are “rejuvenated”.
Note! It is very important to comply principle of subordination of branches, that is, all side branches (skeletal branches) are subordinate to the conductor (central trunk) and should not be higher than it. This also applies to growth on skeletal branches.
Video: how to cut a pear in spring
Rules for the treatment of wounds (cuts) after trimming
The wounds (cuts) remaining after trimming the pear must be properly processed according to all the rules:
- So that moisture does not get into the cut and rotting does not begin (due to a fungal or bacterial infection falling into the cut), it should be covered special tool. Typically, this is used garden var.
Important! According to some gardeners, garden pitch does more harm than good. now more efficient and useful tool for the treatment of wounds after pruning is a garden putty paste "RanNet". However, if there are still frosts (even small ones), then oil paint treatment will be more effective, because garden pitch and RanNet paste at sub-zero temperatures I can freeze and peel off. Also suitable natural drying oil, linseed oil And brilliant green(all do not freeze). And you can mix 1 to 1 iodine and alcohol.
- Obviously, than less area cut, the easier it is for the tree to heal the wound. So if cut with a diameter of up to 2-3 cm, then it is not glossed over at all. At very large cuts, only the edges need to be processed to protect the cambium from drying out.
- It is especially important to cover big cuts that are being made on the ring" on skeletal branches And bole.
If cancerous ulcers form on them, then it will be very difficult to cure them, which means you can lose a skeletal branch or, even worse, the whole tree (if on a trunk).
- But when cutting "on the kidney" cut diameter is small enough does not need processing.
Video: how to properly process cuts of fruit trees
How to trim old and young pears: shaping and rejuvenating pruning
Depending on the age of the trees, the specifics of pruning also differ - the formation of a young pear (from the moment the seedling was planted) and the rejuvenation of the old culture.
Methods (types) of pear formation: types of crowns
Any pruning must be repelled from the shaping!
However, you need to understand that shaping and trimming are different actions. If you can still “be weird” with the shaping (go into creativity), then you need to make cuts only according to the rules.
The method of formation depends on the strength of growth of the pear (variety) (which rootstock is weak, medium or strong), the ability to branch. It is also important to know what you want to get: a lot of fruits or you just need a beautifully designed tree.
Types of tree crowns
- discharged-tiered;
This is the most popular and simple formation. Therefore, further, it is on her example that instructions will be given for the formation of a pear - from planting to 4-5 years of life.
Video: master class on shaping (trimming) by type sparse-tiered crown
- whorled-tiered;
- untiered;
- cup-shaped (vase-shaped);
- fusiform (Spindle bush);
- semi-flat crown;
- flat forms - palmettes and cordons.
However, pear shaping has recently become quite popular. spindle-shaped. This is especially true if you have small garden, everything needs to be placed more compact, so that the branches do not interfere. Applies for dwarf pears(on dwarf rootstocks).
This pruning is described in great detail and shown in the following video:
Video: shaping a pear with a spindle during the life of a tree
How to shape a pear: pruning a 1, 2, 3, 4 year old tree
As a rule, a young pear is formed every spring, however, autumn forming pruning is also allowed.
Note! Which branches to remove and which ones to leave, how exactly to cut them - everything is detailed and clearly shown (in the diagrams) in the previous paragraph "Cutting Rules".
Pruning pear by year in spring (or autumn) is performed as follows (using the example discharged-tiered formation):
Note! As a rule, a 1-2 year old seedling is already planted..
- right after spring planting (i.e. we already have a 1 or 2-year-old seedling) - the main branch (central conductor) is cut off, or rather the top of 3-4 buds (leave a height of 80-100 cm) so that side branches form on the tree, otherwise speaking, the first tier was formed.
It is better to break out all the lower buds so that the tree directs all its forces to the development of the top - the future skeletal branches of the first tier.
- for 2 years- the tree forms lateral branches, which should be cut to 1 / 3-1 / 4 of their length (on the outer kidney), and you need to leave only 2-3 of the strongest (ideally - 3), growing horizontally in different directions, and the rest - cut into a ring. You should also cut the top of the central trunk (conductor) to a height of 60-80 cm from the branching of the first tier (from the uppermost side branch) so that the next (second) tier of skeletal branches begins to form. AND do not forget about subordination (pruning should be carried out at the same level).
Worth knowing! The distance between the tiers of skeletal branches should be approximately as follows: 60-80 cm - between the first and second tier and 30-50 cm - between the second and third. Between the branches themselves in one tier - 10-15 cm. The height of the trunk is 50-80 cm (but 90-100 cm is also possible).
- for 3 years- the side branches are again cut off by 1/4 of the length, as well as the young growth (second-order branches) on these branches, again by 1/4, “on the kidney”. In addition, now you need to leave 2-3 branches (ideally - 3) of the second tier, also cutting them by 1/4. The top of the central trunk is cut again, but already 30-50 centimeters from the second tier, so that the next (third) tier is formed.
The central conductor (main trunk) should be one, so all its competitors should be cut off "on the ring".
- for 4 years — Last year forming a pear (if you form in 3 tiers). Everything is done in the same way as the previous year (the continuation shoots are shortened and the side branches are cut), with one exception: if 3 tiers are enough for you, then 2 strong shoots are left for the 3rd tier, the top itself is cut “on the ring”, by transferring to the side branch (3 branch).
Remember to follow the principle subordination of branches, 1st tier - the longest branches, 2nd tier - shorter, 3rd tier - the shortest.
- For 5 years and beyond it is already necessary to carry out anti-aging pruning, and also do not forget about sanitary and thinning.
Advice! Optimal Height a tree from which it is convenient to harvest - no more than 3.5-4 meters, and even 2.5-3 meters is better.
Important! Don't forget in the fall or at the end winter-early spring, especially young ones, because they still have a thin bark and can easily burn it. They are bleached to protect against sunburn, especially at the end of winter when the trees with south side receive an increased dose of solar insolation, directly from the sun, moreover, reflected from the snow. You can, of course, not whitewash, but shade from the south side, for example, with a wide board or wrap nonwoven fabric(spunbond).
Video: pear pruning 3-4 years after planting
Rejuvenation of an old pear
If you have an old pear in your garden that bears little fruit, then in order to improve productivity and increase its lifespan, you can and should carry out its rejuvenating pruning. However, first you should make sure that the selected tree is old, but healthy, in other words, whether it is sick. Otherwise, rejuvenation will only hasten its death.
If you have a big enough tree, then take a helper.
The essence of rejuvenating pear pruning in spring is to replace old branches with new, younger and more prolific ones.
Important! Moreover, the rejuvenation of old trees (older than 5 years) should be carried out gradually, over several years. In other words, pruning should be moderate, not everything (which will be listed below) should be cut in the first year.
If you remove too many branches at once, then a pear, because it's a strong culture wind up(release a lot of tops). However, everything can be easy fix summer pinch(removal of green young shoots if they grew “in the wrong place” or went to grow “in the wrong place”).
Step-by-step instructions for pruning an old pear in spring:
- First of all, all diseased, dry and broken branches are subject to removal.
- Next, you need to get rid of the lower branches, which literally sag above the ground.
- Completely cut "on the ring" all unnecessary and interfering branches that thicken and obscure the crown (crowns growing inward, crossing, competing, growing with a "fork").
When rejuvenating, advice is especially relevant that it is better to remove one large old branch than to cut or cut (“on a kidney”) a huge number of young thin shoots.
- Get rid of all the tops (vertical branches - "wen"), again, "on the ring."
- Pinch (cut into 3 "buds") all young shoots whose height is more than 40-50 cm.
Remember! Pruning “on the ring” is only necessary by removing “for translation” (on lateral branching), this is how old branches are replaced by younger ones - anti-aging pruning is carried out.
Video: how to cut a very old pear
You can also watch this detailed video about the principles of rejuvenating pruning of old trees:
Video: how to prune an old and neglected tree - spring pruning
By the way! Exists cardinal way to rejuvenate a very old pear. The tree is cut completely at a height of about 1 meter (the cut is made obliquely). Further, lateral growths (or tops) begin to appear, which in the future will become skeletal branches and make up a new crown.
What to do if the pear grows strongly upwards, how to cut it to hold the crown
Obviously, trees should not be left unattended. It is enough not to cut the pear for a couple of years so that it “flies” up.
Of course, you can do nothing, but so that you can Fine harvest and conduct pear treatment from diseases and pests, lowering the crown of the tree is simply necessary.
So, first of all, in this situation, you need to first conduct thinning pruning, and at the end remove all the highest vertical branches "translation" on the side, in other words, to transfer the direction of growth of the main branches to a horizontal position.
However, it is not worth cutting all the vertical branches at a time, but you can increase their fruiting by making small branches above each vegetative (growth) bud. notches hacksaw, which will cause the formation of shoots on which flower (fruit) buds will be laid.
Can also be shortened all last year's growth, which was formed at the tips of the upper branches, i.e. at the very top. Moreover, it is necessary to shorten not by 1/3 of their length, but by 3 kidneys. Then the tree will not run up much. And this must be done every spring, because the tree must grow somewhere and give a one-year growth every year, to rejuvenate the roots.
Video: pruning a pear growing strongly upwards - how to hold a crown
or similar:
Popular mistakes that occur during spring pear pruning for beginners
The most common mistake when pruning pears and other fruit trees is to remove "on the kidney" when pruning is done either below the kidney (in this case, it can freeze out), or too large a stump is left (which simply does not heal, it can rot and an infection is sure to get through it). Make the right cut just above the kidney, wherein bud should be at the level bottom cut.
Likewise for cropping "on the ring" when you leave too much foam, on which completely useless branches then grow, only taking away strength from the tree. Moreover, the stump itself gradually begins to rot, its bark exfoliates. It is also impossible (even more dangerous) to cut too low, with the removal of the ring.
Other common mistakes committed by beginners during pear pruning:
- Pruning is done in wrong timing. The worst time for pruning is the middle of summer, so if you carry out the procedure at this time, you can weaken the tree for a long time and slow down its growth. It is better then in the fall (after leaf fall), but it is optimal in early spring, before bud break.
- Not cut out diseased, dry and broken branches.
- left too many extra branches, which shade the crown and do not allow it to be blown normally (no air access).
- It is forbidden scratch out a hollow "to healthy wood", hammer it with bricks or something else like pour concrete, foam etc. filling just the opposite, accelerates decay trunk wood and shortens the life of a tree.
- No special need cut off old branches on which mosses and lichens. They do not harm, but benefit.
Another thing is if young thin branches of trees are covered with moss, then in this case rejuvenating pruning of the entire tree (especially old branches) is needed.
Thus, if you annually carry out high-quality spring pruning of a pear in accordance with all the rules, then the tree will definitely reward you. big amount delicious fruits. After all, only healthy tree with a well-formed crown.
Of course, when you read and see diagrams, pictures, everything seems simple and easy. But for some reason, when you approach your tree, everything becomes incomprehensible.
Well, that's okay. Main - no need to be afraid and just practice more often Because everything comes with experience.
In addition, pruning is, in a sense, a creative process: after all, the same branch (skeletal) can be cut in different ways.
Advice! Alternatively, you can print out cheat sheets for yourself with all the patterns and cropping rules.
Video: how to cut a pear in spring
In contact with
The formation of a pear crown is an important procedure, if not vital for a fruit tree. Especially if the gardener wants to harvest a regular rich harvest. Pear pruning is carried out in different seasons and pursues various purposes. Do you want to know which ones? Then read on.
As soon as the pear planted by you enters the fruiting period, it needs regular shaping pruning. And the point is not only that it is much easier to harvest from the branches of a formed tree - you will also notice a significant increase in the number of fruits. In addition, such a procedure will benefit the plant itself:
- the culture is rejuvenated;
- branches are strengthened;
- if you regularly trim the crown of a pear, you will be able to form its high-quality skeleton;
- pear crown formation has a beneficial effect on the condition of the bark;
- with the help of such a procedure it is possible to extend the period of active fruiting;
- more sunlight gets to the ovaries;
- the taste of fruits improves, they themselves increase in size;
- kronirovanie has and medicinal properties- the procedure is preventive measure to diseases that are carried by pests that live in cracks in the bark.
If you neglect the pruning procedure and do not carry out regular crown formation, it will only take a few years for your pear to irrevocably run wild.
Another problem that almost all gardeners face is spinning tops. These are powerful side shoots (formed on skeletal branches) that must be removed. Before forming a pear crown, be sure to check for tops - we remove them first. Spinning tops never give fruit, but only thicken the crown, taking away from the tree vitality. The tops always develop the most powerful foliage, which also feeds on the juices of the plant.
Tops are easy to recognize - they almost always grow strictly vertically.
Types and purposes of bookings
No matter how old your tree is, its crown is formed in two main ways - thinning (when the branches are removed directly at the base) and shortening (when only part of the fruiting cutting is cut off so that the branches become thicker and rejuvenated).
As for the main goals of the procedure, there are 3 of them:
- Formation. Creating a clear shape of the crown of a young pear.
- Support. We maintain yield indicators, take care of the health of the tree.
- Rejuvenation. Extension of the period of fruiting culture.
Features of pruning in winter
Any manipulations related to cropping, better in winter do not carry out. But if you're serious about gardening, it's best to do it in February, choosing a relatively warm day when the air temperature doesn't drop below -15°C. It is advisable to start with those trees that are already several years old - in such plants, the buds wake up much earlier.
Features of pruning in the spring
Majority experienced gardeners are unanimous in the opinion that spring pruning is optimal fruit crops. During this period, the pear leaves have not yet woken up, there is practically no sap flow, so it will be easier for the tree to overcome the consequences of the procedure. You need to choose the time for the manipulations so as to protect your garden from sudden frosts and strong temperature fluctuations.
How to properly and when to prune a pear in spring will depend on the region in which it grows. So, in the southern gardens, this procedure is carried out in the first two weeks of March, in middle lane Russia and further to the east - no later than in the first days of April.
Pear seedlings at the age of 1–2 years are best tolerated by spring pruning. For all other trees, the following scheme is practiced:
- remove all branches and shoots on which clear signs of freezing are visible;
- we remove all shoots that grow incorrectly or crookedly;
- we shorten the trunk - by about 25%.
There is one trick that will help to minimally injure the bark in the area of cut branches: when you cut the shoot “on the ring”, first file it from the bottom, and only then cut it off completely.
After such manipulations, the active development of the lateral shoots of the tree begins, those buds that are located below the cuts wake up.
Features of pruning in the summer
Pruning pear trees in the summer is worth it only if necessary. Such manipulation is allowed no later than June, while only damaged branches or too violent young shoots can be removed without resorting to radical shaping measures.
Features of pruning in the fall
Autumn manipulations with the crown are sanitary in nature. All dried branches are removed from the tree, one-year-old lashes are cut by about a third. It is important to choose the right time: there should be no frost for the next three weeks after the procedure, so try to cope with all the manipulations in early September.
Pruning of seedlings, young and old trees
For the first time, pear seedlings after planting are subject to pruning in the fall. On the main shoot, you should select the first bud, from which we will determine the shoots to be pruned. Three ovaries located above the first kidney must also be removed. Now we find the fifth kidney, located with opposite side trunk - it will become the basis for the second branch of the crown skeleton. But the kidneys from 6 to 8 should be removed.
As a rule, any manipulations when planting a young tree give it the opportunity to actively form a crown.
In the second year after planting, young pears should be shortened by about a quarter of their height. In addition, it is necessary to remove all branching shoots, cutting them to the first bud.
In the next few years, all pruning manipulations will be identical - you form a crown and carry out sanitary cleaning. From about the fifth year of the tree's life, the growth of lateral shoots will gradually stop, so the intensity of work is reduced. The next 5-7 years you will only sanitary pruning for purely medicinal purposes.
Formation of the crown of columnar pears
The cultivation of columnar fruit trees in our country is rapidly gaining popularity - it is customary to plant them on almost every personal plot. Planting and caring for a columnar pear is not difficult, with one exception - the trees need regular pruning.
Before proceeding with the procedure, carefully examine the top: if the kidney is healthy, the tree has a central conductor; if not, you should choose the strongest side shoot, removing all others. At young seedling it is better to shorten the side shoots - so you do not provoke their intensive growth.
Now you know what to do so that your pear garden is always generous in harvest.
Video "Formation of the crown of a pear"
From this video you will learn how to properly form a pear crown.
An important element in the care of the plant.
This process must be carried out carefully so as not to harm the tree, so all the nuances of spring pear pruning must be taken into account.
Why spring pruning is needed
Doubts about whether to prune quite often overcome novice gardeners. But this procedure must be carried out in order to ensure a healthy existence for the plant and active growth of shoots. By pruning a pear, it is possible to increase the yield of the tree, as well as the quality of the fruit.
Important! When cutting the branches of a young pear, it is necessary to immediately begin the formation of the crown, which will contribute to a better absorption of sunlight by the leaves of the tree and accelerate the photosynthesis of the plant.
Also pruning pear in the spring correct scheme will help the plant form a strong trunk and branches so that they can withstand the stress of a large crop. It will be able to provide the plant with a normal distribution of nutrients, the necessary space for processing from and convenient harvesting.
Best time for spring pruning
Pear pruning should be carried out at a time when the air temperature does not fall below -8 ° C, from March to May. At this time, the tree is still at rest and the juices are not distributed along the trunk, so the pear will bring the procedure without any undesirable consequences. 
If you neglect the advice on the timing of the procedure and cut it off very early, when a strong drop in air temperature is possible, the plant can be harmed or even provoked to death.
A set of garden tools for work
In order to properly perform the procedure for pruning a tree, it is necessary to prepare special gardening Tools. For young plants that have thin, fragile branches, you will need and. 
In order to cope with older trees, you can not do without a saw and lopper. It is important not only to choose the right one, but also to keep them clean. Store your garden supplies in a clean and dry place. Also make sure that they are good and do not harm the plant during the manipulation. 
Did you know? Very durable pear wood is widely used for making musical instruments and furniture, as well kitchen utensils that can be washed in the dishwasher and nothing will happen to them.
Differences in pruning old and young trees
Depending on the age of the pear, pruning has its own characteristics, which must be taken into account during the procedure in order to ensure the normal development and fruiting of the plant.
Pruning young
Consider how to prune a young pear in the spring. Pruning manipulations are carried out the next year after planting, when the seedling fully takes root and gets stronger. The further formation of the crown of the tree depends on the first pruning. 
If you do the whole procedure correctly, then in subsequent years it will be easier to take care of the pear, since a properly formed crown will only require cutting last year's shoots and forming the skeletal branches of the crown.
Spring procedures contribute to an increase in branching, and semi-skeletal branches are formed that affect the formation of fruit branches, for this the shoots are shortened by 1/4 of the length.
Also pay attention to tops, which often form on young trees. Tops that thicken the crown can grow into full-fledged large branches very quickly, so you can’t hesitate to cut them. The gardener must turn them into overgrown and semi-skeletal branches. 
Pruning fruit-bearing
Consider detailed description how to prune a fruiting pear in spring so that novice gardeners can perform this procedure correctly and save them from unnecessary, thoughtless steps. 
The first tier of the crown must be formed before the pear enters the fruiting period. Approximately in the fifth year, the tree must be prepared for the formation of the second tier of the crown. By the age of six pear, the crown thickens, the fruiting area shifts to the periphery.
To prevent this process, it is necessary to lighten the crown. It is necessary to leave guide branches that extend from the trunk at an angle of up to 90 °, and cut out competitors at the base of the growth of branches. On the selected conductor, it is necessary to select the skeletal branches, which are collected in groups in height and cut off, forming two or even three tiers of the crown. 
The height between the first and second tiers should be at least 60 cm, and the height between the second and third tiers should be at least 30 cm. Next, you need to start shortening and thinning individual branches in accordance with the height of each tier.
Did you know?Each leaf on a pear tree grows at the same angle - 135° , which provides the foliage with the maximum amount of moisture and light.
Let's consider how to cut a pear if the branches grow up and move away from the trunk almost in parallel. In this case, the forming pruning of the conductors is first performed, if these branches are healthy, do not thicken the crown of the tree and do not intertwine, then you do not need to remove them completely, you can simply shorten them in accordance with the tier to which they belong.
It is also necessary to remove all branches that grow inside the crown, thicken it or intertwine with each other. It is also important to take care of shortening the growth of skeletal branches, cut them off by ¼ of the entire length.
Trimming old
Pruning of old trees is done to rejuvenate the plant, to stimulate fruiting and to shape the tree for easy fruit picking. It is very important at this stage to perform the manipulation correctly, because old trees may not survive a poorly performed procedure. 
In the case of pear rejuvenation, there are two situations on which your further actions will depend:
- If the tree has not been subjected to regular removal of branches and has grown quite large, but poorly fruiting, then the procedure must begin with shortening the crown of the tree.
- If the pear was subjected to regular removal of branches, then the rejuvenating procedure must begin with thinning the crown of the pear.
