home > Interior Design > Warm water floor with your own hands. Do-it-yourself water-heated floor: a complete guide to installing pipes and screeds Correct floor heating scheme

Warm water floor with your own hands. Do-it-yourself water-heated floor: a complete guide to installing pipes and screeds Correct floor heating scheme

Today, there are many options to equip your apartment, house or country house with the most efficient heating system. Depending on the intended use of residential premises, heating systems can be main and auxiliary. In each case, the tenants themselves decide how to heat their home. A lot has already been said about the advantages of water floors. In terms of its efficiency and quality of heating, a water heated floor is the undisputed leader among the existing heating options. However, from a technological point of view, such a heating scheme is not always suitable as the main source of heat in a house.

Underfloor heating is ideal for the private sector, country houses and dachas, which cannot be said about a city apartment in high-rise building. However, there are also this case way out of the current situation. In order to equip an efficient heating system in your house or apartment, consider what it looks like circuit diagram warm water floor.

Various types of warm floors. Fundamental differences

In practice, in private households, three types of underfloor heating are being installed today:

  • concrete;
  • lungs;
  • thin.

Each type has its own technological features, a specific connection scheme, which are largely determined by the type of dwelling. A warm floor based on a concrete screed is mounted in houses and buildings with sufficiently strong ceilings. When choosing such a heating scheme, it is important to remember the significant limitations from a technological point of view. We are talking about an additional load on the ceiling and a decrease in the internal space by raising the floor by 10-15 cm.

Important! When equipping a heating system of this type, technological limitations play an important role. A new concrete screed has a significant weight (200-300 kg / m 2), therefore, when laying a warm floor in an ordinary room of 15 square meters. m. a concrete monolith weighing 2-3 tons will press on the ceiling.

Note: the installation of underfloor heating with a liquid heat carrier in residential premises of apartment buildings is prohibited. The main reason for the ban is the technological factor. The pipeline for the water floor is not able to withstand the increased hydraulic resistance. The functionality of the heating system can be affected by poor-quality coolant. In addition, there is always a high probability of violation of the integrity and failure of the water circuit as a result of water hammer.

For residential buildings with a strong and reliable structure, a concrete water floor is an excellent solution for heating residential premises. For a city apartment, this option looks problematic. The only way to implement such a heating scheme in a city apartment is to use underfloor heating as an auxiliary, additional source of heating. The water circuit can be laid on the floor in small rooms. For example, a very common option is underfloor heating in the bathroom and in the nursery.

The sand-cement screed, in which the water circuit is hidden, will well protect the pipeline from damage and provide good heat transfer.

Light water floor - a heating scheme specially designed for equipment in houses of wooden construction. The main advantage in this case is the minimum load on the floors. In turn, light floors according to the type of flooring are divided into wooden and polystyrene structures.

The third type of water floors used in everyday life are thin structures. Here, the main emphasis is on pipes of small diameter, due to which the height of the entire cake is 25 mm.

Water floor - heating cake scheme

In most cases, residents of the private sector, owners of country houses and cottages prefer the concrete type of water floors. This option installs much faster. Equipment costs are much less. And the heating system itself is practical and efficient in operation. In order to carry out the installation of a warm floor with your own hands, you should familiarize yourself with how a concrete water floor looks like in a section, which is the so-called layer cake scheme.

The layer cake is a layered structure, which is mandatory when laying the heating circuit on the floor. The lowest layer is a waterproofing coating, the task of which is to provide protection concrete floors from the effects of moisture.

After laying the waterproofing around the perimeter of the heated room, a damper tape is laid out. This element compensates for the pressure of the concrete screed, which expands during heating, on the wall panels.

Important! Sequential laying of each layer in a layer cake of a concrete water-heated floor is prerequisite. Neglect of technology can lead to the fact that your heating system will bring only troubles and problems, instead of creating comfortable living conditions.

Thermal insulation is the most important element in this option. Properly selected materials, the thickness of the heat-insulating layer will be minimized heat loss, directing the main flow of heat from the heating pipe upwards. Thermal insulation is installed over the entire area of ​​the heated room, regardless of whether there is a water heating circuit in this place or not.

Again, a layer of waterproofing is placed on top of the heat-insulating layer, which will protect all previous layers of the cake from moisture in case of leakage.

On the prepared basis, the heating circuit pipeline is already being installed. Today, there are many ways to fix heating pipes. Anchor shackles, plastic clamps and fastening straps are commonly used. The most convenient and practical way is to use molded heat-insulating boards for the successful laying of pipes for a warm water floor. The design of such plates provides special fasteners for the heating pipe.

Should know! If we are talking about the equipment of heating floors in rooms of a small area, reinforcing mesh is not a mandatory element. For large areas, laying a reinforcing mesh or polypropylene fiber is mandatory.

The final step in the formation of a layer cake is pouring concrete. IN sand-cement mixture be sure to add a plasticizer. The final stage is the formation of the floor covering. Here you can already give free rein to your imagination, giving preference to one or another material. For bathroom most suitable option- porcelain tile or tile. For living rooms, the ideal option is to use laminated parquet or laminate.

The layer cake scheme is traditional. Differences may be in the use of materials various types and kind. The layered structure, as a rule, has a thickness of 100-150 mm. The thickness of the screed can be varied depending on the design features of the dwelling and the building itself.

Laying schemes for the water circuit

If the installation of warm water floors is carried out along the knurled, traditional technology in a clear sequence, then the laying of the heating pipe can be performed in various variations. The main goal pursued when equipping heating floors is to uniformly heat the entire area of ​​the heated room. Laying the pipeline just the way you want means deliberately creating problem areas in the entire structure. The coolant, as it is consumed, tends to quickly lose temperature, so the pipes must be laid, starting from the walls, then moving towards the entrance to the room or to its center. For this, specially designed optimal schemes for laying the water circuit, each of which has its own characteristics.

The mixing unit and manifold are the beginning of the entire heating system. Water circuits are connected in a clear sequence. The beginning of the pipeline is to the inlet pipe, the end of the pipe is connected to the check valve.

You can mount a warm floor with your own hands, water, the contour of which will be laid as follows:

  • pipe installation according to the snake scheme "
  • laying the pipeline according to the snail scheme;
  • combined scheme.

When installing heating in corner rooms, a pipe laying scheme for enhanced heating is used.

In each individual case, we can talk about the advantages of a particular scheme. For example: the snail is the simplest pattern. The bend of the pipe here reaches 90 0, while in the snake the heating pipe will be bent by 180 0.

On a note: a water circuit of the "snake" type can be operated from a low-power circulation pump. For a bathroom or nursery, this styling scheme looks preferable.

Where heated rooms have a linear slope, it is better to mount the pipe according to the "snake" scheme. The pipeline is laid in the direction from the mixing unit towards the slope. Air congestion in this embodiment is easily removed, which cannot be said about a pipe laid according to the “snail” scheme. In sloping rooms, removing air pockets can be problematic.

For large areas where it is required to use several water circuits of the same length for heating, the “snake” pipeline laying scheme is very convenient. Thanks to this method of installation, it is possible to achieve a balanced operation of the entire heating system.

Heating pipes laid on a prepared base to a collector that distributes the coolant supply to the system. The distribution cabinet together with the mixing unit is installed either in the heated room or next to it, which significantly reduces the number of pipes and the consumption of other materials. The bends of the water pipe at the point of connection to the collector are sewn into a special protective box.

In each individual case, follow certain order water pipe installation. When working with the snail scheme, the pipe is first laid along the perimeter of the walls, after which a turn follows from the farthest wall. In the opposite direction, the pipe is laid in a spiral, reaching the center of the heated room. For the snake circuit, the laying of the water circuit is as follows. The pipe lies along the perimeter of the walls, after which uniform bends are made in the opposite direction.

Used in some cases, combined installation schemes for heating pipes for underfloor heating, suggest the simultaneous use of both options. One half of the room can be heated by a serpentine water circuit, while the other part of the room will be heated by a volute pipe.

Scheme of connecting a heating water pipe to a collector

The device of a concrete screed, the laying of a water heating pipe - engineering and technological aspects of installing a warm floor. The main stage during installation is the connection of the pipeline to the mixing unit and to the manifold.

It has already been said above about where and how best to position the manifold cabinet. Together with the installation of the mixing unit, the manifold and circulation pump constitute the control unit of the heating system.

Typically, the cabinet has dimensions of 50x50 cm. For a better combination with the interior of the living space, the collector cabinet is made in a recess of 10-15 cm. Accordingly, it is better to hide the water circuits at the connection points in the wall.

Having installed the collector, the connection of the necessary highways to it begins. Traditionally, the connection scheme looks like this:

The difference may be in which method of heating is used. This can be the use of a coolant supplied through a centralized heating system, or an autonomous heating system powered by a boiler.

On a note: If you use underfloor heating and heating radiators at the same time, then you can get by with installing one pump. When it comes to a full-fledged heating system, underfloor heating for the entire building, a collector, a pump and the installation of a mixing unit are mandatory attributes.

The supply pipe and return pipe are connected to the manifold using special fittings. If the diameters of the pipe and the manifold inlet are different, adapters are used.

A shut-off valve must be installed in the system, which shuts off the supply of hot water to the water circuits. On return pipe drain valve must be installed.

To ensure the exact temperature of heating the warm floor, special valves and a mixing unit are installed on the collector. If funds are available, you can purchase a ready-made, complex collector, the design of which includes all of the listed elements. Collectors may differ in their design, depending on the number of connected water circuits and the volume of heated rooms.

For reference: in houses where underfloor heating is installed in all residential premises, collectors serve all premises at once. Under one condition, if the layout of the heating pipe is the same everywhere.

When using one pipe laying scheme, there is one number of inlet and outlet connection points in the collector. Using combined laying, you will have to have a collector with big amount inlet and outlet pipes.

Subtleties and nuances of connecting water heated floors

Having become acquainted with the various options for equipment and installation of warm water floors, it should be recalled that there are some nuances that must be taken into account. Let's take a closer look:

  • laying the water circuit;
  • checking the functionality of the finished heating system;
  • pouring screed, laying flooring.

The first thing to pay attention to is the method of laying the heating pipe. If for you a warm floor is the only heating option in the house, then the pipe is mounted with minimal deviations. The pipe pitch in this case is 15-20 cm. In the event that the warm floor is only an auxiliary heating system for you, the pipe is laid in increments of up to 30 cm.

Important! The maximum allowable step for laying the water circuit should not exceed 30 cm. Otherwise, you will physically feel unheated areas in the floor.

The pipe is fixed with special clamps or clips, however, without rigid fixation. When a hot coolant is supplied, the pipeline expands, which will inevitably cause a dynamic displacement of the entire circuit. When laying a water pipe according to the snail scheme, do not forget that there is a reverse stroke. The most optimal pipe length for underfloor heating is 70 m. If the entire length is not enough to heat one room, make two water circuits of the same length.

For example: to heat a room of 10 m 2, you will need 67 m of a heating pipe (with a step of 15 cm).

The final stage of work is a trial run, which is carried out to check the operability of the heating system and all structural elements. The first start is carried out for 2-4 hours. The pressure at start-up should exceed the working pressure by 1.5-2 times. Every hour, the working pressure must be reduced by 0.03 MPa, bringing it to the optimum parameters. The heating temperature during this period should rise evenly to operating values.

In the end, when the whole system is working, you can start pouring a concrete screed or installing a stacked structure.

Conclusion

Summing up, we can say the following. Connection schemes for underfloor heating in our apartments and houses may differ, however, there are no fundamental differences in this case. Depending on how you plan to use this heating scheme, it depends on how the wiring will be carried out, the layout of the water pipe and the connection to the hot water source.

It should be recalled that the connection of a warm water floor to a centralized heating main is prohibited, for technological reasons. The figure shows how you can achieve what you want, but whether in your house after that the neighbors' heating batteries can work with the same efficiency is an open question.

Maximum possible effect water heat-insulated floors give when using independent sources of heating. gas boilers are the best sources of heat. In view of the fact that for a warm floor the maximum allowable heating temperature of the coolant reaches 45-50 0 C, a small-capacity boiler can be used.

At correct installation, using the usual scheme of underfloor heating, you can provide yourself with comfort for a long time. Under normal operating conditions, your heating floor will be able to work 30-50 years.

First of all, you need to remember that the uniformity of heat distribution in the room depends on the method of laying a water-heated floor. This is because the water, passing through the pipes, gradually cools. Therefore, you need to start installation from the walls, moving along the laying pattern to the center or exit.

Schemes for laying a water-heated floor:

  • "Snake";
  • "Snail";
  • Combined.

The “snake” laying scheme leads the pipe first along the perimeter of the outer walls, then from one of the walls it goes back in a wavy line. The “snail” laying pattern constantly goes around the perimeter of the room, narrowing towards the center with each new circle (you need to lay the pipe through one row to leave room for the reverse). The combined laying scheme includes both of the above. For example, half of the room can be laid with a “snake”, half with a “snail”.

Underfloor heating technologies

Water heated floor can be mounted using one of 3 technologies:

  • In a concrete screed;
  • On polystyrene foam mats;
  • In the grooves of wooden plates.

We will talk about the installation processes a little lower, and first we will consider connecting the manifold for pipes, since it is with him that all work begins.

Installation and connection of a collector for a water-heated floor

The collectors are placed in a collector cabinet. The dimensions of the collector cabinet are approximately a quarter of a square meter (50 × 50 cm or 60 × 40 cm), the thickness is 12-15 cm. Depending on whether your pipeline is open or closed, the cabinet can also be built into the wall or placed close to it .

After installing the manifold cabinet, a feeder is brought into it ( hot water) and return ( cold water) pipe. Accordingly, a manifold is connected to the supply pipe through a fitting (or adapter, if the pipe diameters are different), for distributing the coolant, and a collector is connected to the return pipe for docking with the ends of the pipes through which the cooling coolant flows.

A shut-off valve must be installed between the water pipes and the collectors in case of repair. There should be a drain cock on the opposite side of the manifold.

Most likely, we will write a separate article about the assembly and connection of the collector. Now let's just say that for the most accurate regulation of the floor temperature, control valves and, possibly, a mixer should be installed on the collectors. If you have enough money, you can buy a complex collector for a water-heated floor, which will include everything you need.

Collectors can be designed for several rooms or several pipe laying patterns. For example, if the collectors work for 3 rooms with one laying pattern in each, then the supply and reception collectors will have 3 outlets for connecting to pipes. And if the collectors work for the same 3 rooms, but with two laying schemes in each, then the collectors will have 2 times more outlets - 6 pieces.

If you connect underfloor heating to a central heating system, then a booster pump is not required. And if you have an autonomous floor water supply system (with a boiler), then the pump is needed for pumping and pumping out.

Installation of a water heated floor in a concrete screed

The process of installing a water-heated floor with a screed:

  1. Surface cleaning and leveling. After cleaning, you need to check the surface of the base for height differences. If the difference does not exceed 1 cm, you can start laying the floor. If the difference is 2 cm or more, you need to level the surface. The best thing for this is a self-leveling floor. How to make a self-leveling draft floor, we wrote in previous articles.
  2. Waterproofing. The waterproofing film is laid in order to protect the coolant from possible moisture from below.
  3. Edge insulation. Along the perimeter of the walls, a damper tape is laid and fastened to the entire height of the future floor.
  4. Thermal insulation. Insulation 1-5 cm thick (depending on how warm the floor you make, and what climatic conditions) must be slab. You can also buy a heater with a reflective surface.
  5. Vapor barrier.
  6. Reinforcement. It is advisable to buy a reinforcing mesh with cells of 15-20 cm: it is easy to lay a pipe for a water-heated floor through them. Many make reinforcement before laying water floor pipes, but it is advisable to do it after, since in this case the reinforcement will evenly distribute the load on the pipes.
  7. Underfloor heating installation. First, we connect the pipe to the outlet of the supply manifold. If you make a warm floor the only source of heating, then lay the pipe with minimal indentation directly along the grid (the step between the pipes is 15-20 cm). If the warm floor is an auxiliary heating system, then the laying step can be up to 30 cm, but no more. It is very easy to fasten the pipe to the mesh with special clips (fastening pitch is about 1 meter), but it is not necessary to fasten it rigidly: the pipe may expand slightly from heating. You can also fasten the pipes with fixing strips (track) or ties. If laying goes before reinforcement, then there are special clips for attaching to the base. If you are laying the floor according to the "snail" scheme, do not forget about the reverse move. The optimal pipe length for one circuit is 70-80 m. If this length is not enough for one room, divide the area into 2 circuits. For a room with an area of ​​​​10 m 2, with a step between pipes of 15 cm, the length of the pipe will be 67 m (just best option). After laying the entire length of the pipe, we connect it to the outlet of the receiving manifold.

  8. Functionality check. After the installed water floor heating system, it must be turned on for several hours to ensure the quality of the installation. The pressure should decrease by about 0.03 MPa per hour, while the water temperature should be the same.
  9. Screed filling. The thickness of the water-heated floor screed should be 2-3 cm higher than the pipes or reinforcement. How to make a wet floor screed, we wrote in one of the previous articles.

When the screed dries (1 month), proceed to laying soundproofing and coating. Do not turn on the warm floor until the screed is completely set: the screed cannot be forcibly dried - it will crack.

Installation of a water-heated floor on polystyrene foam mats

It differs from the previous one in the absence of a screed and insulation (which is the polystyrene foam mat itself). Over the entire area of ​​the mat, tubercles are located at an equal distance from each other, between which a pipe is laid. After laying the pipes, the mats are poured with a screed, then laid soundproof material and floor covering.

Also laying can be made on plates from expanded polystyrene. But before that, you need to create an installation scheme, since you will lay the slabs along it. The plates have grooves in which aluminum plates are placed (for heating), in which pipes are already laid and fastened. After laying and checking the performance of a water-heated floor, sound insulation and a coating are laid on it.

Underfloor heating is widely used as additional heating in many modern houses. This heating technology has received wide use not only because of the obvious comfort, but also because of energy savings. This article discusses the features of installing such a system with your own hands.

Peculiarities

A warm water floor is a pipe system laid according to a special scheme. This scheme is chosen directly by the owner of the house. From the boiler, the hot coolant circulates through pipes, its temperature is regulated by thermostats. After cooling, the liquid moves back to the boiler, resuming the process. Collector - a node for regulating heating, which combines different flows of heated fluid.

The boiler runs not only on electricity, but also on gas, solid or liquid fuels. Many boiler models include a circulation pump. The installation technology requires a preliminary calculation of the pump power: floor heating requires high electricity costs.

The service life of the system depends on the quality and reliability of the selected pipes. It is customary to use both PVC and metal-plastic pipes due to their long service life. However, residents prefer to use the second option. Metal-plastic pipes are more reliable, work well in bending and can take any shape.

The collector-mixing unit, in addition to distributing the coolant along the circuits, performs a number of the following functions: it controls the flow of water, regulates its temperature, and also removes air from the pipes.

The design of such a device includes:

  • Manifolds equipped with shut-off valves, balancing valves and a flow meter;
  • Automatic air vent;
  • A set of fittings connecting individual elements;
  • Drainage taps for draining;
  • Fixing brackets.

The system can be independently assembled and connected, which is not difficult, but economical.

Water heated floor is laid in three stages. Such a "pie" consists of a reflective substrate, a heating circuit and a top coat. A film with a mirror coating can protect the circuit from heat loss, therefore it is used as a screen.

The above device differs significantly from floors with electric heating. Water heated floor has a complex structure and will cost more during installation, but will save money during operation. TVP heating control is more difficult. The initial heating of electric floors is longer than that of water floors.

Electricity should be made the main source of heat in a small area of ​​​​the room, while in large rooms it is more appropriate to use a water system.

Technology

Pipes made of plastic or metal are immersed in a cement screed. Under the action of the pump, the coolant moves through them, having received heat from the boiler. It heats up the screed and moves back to the boiler. Due to convection, the temperature of the screed is transferred to the surface. If the VTP is the only source of heat, then the degree of heating is regulated by the boiler.

If water heating only complements the radiator, the temperature is balanced by the mixing unit. Cold and hot air are mixed in predetermined proportions. Both ordinary water and antifreeze can act as a coolant.

Advantages and disadvantages

Before deciding to install TVP, you need to familiarize yourself with all the strengths and weaknesses of this heating system.

Notable among the positives are:

  • Profitability. When compared to electric heating, a water floor is cheaper to maintain. It is most advantageous to install such a system in a private house.
  • Comfort. The heated air is distributed over the entire surface of the floor. This eliminates the possibility of thermal burns and provides a pleasant sensation.
  • Safety. The device is hidden under the floor tiles, minimizing the risk of injury.
  • Environmental friendliness. electrical system heating creates an unsafe electromagnetic field. TVP does not produce such a field, therefore it does not disturb the healthy microclimate in the room. This system fully complies with sanitary and hygienic standards.

  • Aesthetic appearance. The complete absence of bulky structures does not prevent the implementation design ideas, does not introduce imbalance into the interior and does not accumulate dirt and dust.
  • Alternative system heating allows significantly expand usable area premises.
  • TVP works absolutely silently, therefore, it does not have a negative impact on the inhabitants of the apartment - for residents of larger cities, this item is especially relevant.
  • Heated floor prevents the formation of moisture Therefore, it is preferred to use it in the bathroom.

Do not forget about the significant disadvantages:

  • Difficulty of installation. Before laying, it is necessary to carefully level and prepare the rough surface. The coating includes three layers, each of which requires taking into account all the subtleties of the installation.
  • The impossibility of laying TVP in small corridors or on flights of stairs without additional installation radiator.
  • Difficulty in troubleshooting. Even a partial repair of the system will require the dismantling of the floor.

  • water system it is preferable to install in a private house. Due to possible leaks, as well as the risk of pressure surges in the central heating system, this system is not recommended to be installed in high-rise buildings. During the installation process, the "pie" of the substrate can significantly weight the floor slabs, and this is dangerous for old houses.
  • With prolonged heating, such a floor can significantly dry out the air, so it is better not to lay it in initially dry rooms. Humidity can be replenished by installing an aquarium or buying houseplants.

Device

The water floor is a multicomponent system. Today, “wet” installation technology is often used: “wet” construction processes are used for flooring, for example, pouring a cement screed. The process of laying dry floors is much simpler, but they are used, for the most part, in wooden private houses.

Such a floor is laid in several ways:

  • The first method is the most popular - concrete screed.

  • The purpose of the following method is to mount the contours inside special holes in the polystyrene foam. The grooves have to be cut by yourself. This slightly lengthens the installation process.
  • Laying in trenches inside plywood sheets is mainly used in houses with wooden flooring.

In the typical construction of the “pie” of the coating, in the first method of laying, the base is concrete slab floors or ground. The main requirement is stability and durability. A vapor barrier film made of polyethylene or glassine with a thickness of about 0.1 mm is laid on top of the base. The next layer is insulation. It should have a low thermal conductivity and high mechanical performance, so preference is given to an insulator made of extruded polystyrene foam.

The new layer is a screed of a mixture of cement with sand and the addition of a plasticizer to achieve the required mobility and reduce the ratio of water and cement. Pipe contours and wire mesh are immersed in the mixture, the cell pitch is 50x50 or 100x100 mm. The optimal height of the screed above the pipes to ensure uniform heat distribution and increase structural strength is 5 cm. But it is also allowed to lower it to 3 cm.

To compensate for the thermal expansion of the screed at the boundaries of the heating circuits and in places of contact with the walls, a damper tape with a thickness of at least 5 mm is mounted. The finishing layer can be presented both in the form of ceramic tiles and other types of coating: linoleum, laminate or carpet.

It all depends on the functional area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe location of the floors. It is important to know that fire hazardous types of coatings require strict adherence to the heating regime.

Contours can be installed in different ways.

Consider some options, their pros and cons:

  • "Snake" - the easiest to perform, but less common option for mounting circuits. The disadvantage is the temperature difference is about 5-10 degrees over the entire surface. Hot fluid cools down from the collector and back, so the center of the room is usually cooler than the walls.
  • Installing pipes with a "snail" is quite difficult to install, but helps to ensure uniform distribution temperature around the room. The direct and reverse movement of the coolant flows inside each other. This method has become more widespread.

  • Mounting systems are usually combined. To maintain the desired mode of heating the premises, builders advise laying the edge zones in the first way, and running pipes in a spiral in the center of the floor.

Laying step - the required distance between the turns of the contour. It is directly dependent on the diameter of the pipes. An uneven ratio can cause voids or overheating, violating the integrity of the heating system. Properly chosen step size can reduce the load on the collector. This distance varies from 50 to 450 mm.

The step can be both constant and variable, this is affected by the functional areas of the room. For rooms with strictly regulated heating requirements, changing the step of the circuits is unacceptable. However, the right size can smooth out the temperature difference.

How to choose pipes?

The requirements for pipes depend on the conditions of their operation. The main criterion is high protection against corrosion. The material should not collapse over time, from high temperature or the chemical composition of the coolant. It is necessary to choose pipes with a special “anti-oxygen barrier” that prevents diffusion processes at the border of the material walls.

The use of welded pipes of any material is unacceptable in the installation of closed circuits. Steel, galvanized or stainless pipes are only suitable for moving the coolant from the boiler to the collectors. Pipe connection - vulnerable spot TVP, so the ideal contour is laid from a single piece of pipe. The material of such pipes must be plastic, resistant to cracking and able to maintain a given shape.

The outer diameter of the pipes must reach 16, 20 or 25 mm. It is important not to forget that the narrowing of the contours is aware of the extra load on the equipment, and a significant expansion makes the screed heavier by raising the floor.

Concrete exerts significant pressure, so high-strength pipes should be selected. The walls must cope not only with the external load: pressure surges of the coolant can reach 10 bar. Also, the material must withstand temperatures up to 95 degrees to ensure the safety of the system.

Common mistakes are choosing pipes with an internal rough surface. The hydraulic resistance in such systems is quite high, which leads to the appearance of unwanted noise of the circulating fluid.

Only a few types of materials meet the above conditions:

  • Polypropylene pipes. This material has a low cost. Among the mechanical characteristics of polypropylene, one can single out a low level of heat transfer and a lack of plasticity. Pipes made of such material are not suitable for installing a warm water floor. Even after laborious welding, such a system will remain unreliable.
  • Copper. This material has good thermal conductivity and high dynamic strength. In modern samples, a special polymer film is applied to the inner surface, which increases their mechanical properties. Among the shortcomings are the complexity of installation and high cost.

  • Steel corrugated pipes. Fitting connections of structures made of this material are considered reliable and are allowed when installing TVP. Stainless steel bends well and does not corrode, while the polyethylene inner coating gives the contours additional strength. Unfortunately, given material has not yet become widespread in the installation of underfloor heating due to its novelty.

How to choose and install a collector?

The collector-mixing unit performs many important functions, therefore, the uninterrupted functioning of the entire heating system depends on its competent choice. It is better to entrust the choice of a device to specialists, but if you want to make a purchase on your own, you need to rely on some principles.

The supply manifolds must be equipped with balancing valves. They can be equipped with flow meters, but their presence is not required. Return units must be equipped with thermostatic valves or shut-off valves.

Any manifold must have an automatic air vent. Drain valves are provided to remove air or drain the coolant.

Fittings individually selected for each system ensure the correct connection of the manifold to the pipes. And the fastening of the mixing unit in compliance with the required distance between the axes is carried out by means of special brackets. A thermostat can be included in the collector group. If you want to fully automate heat regulation, preference should be given to systems with electromechanical servo drives on valves. However, they require additional installation of mixers.

The entire collector complex should be located in a specially equipped cabinet, installed in a niche or open. In order for the air to be removed correctly, the cabinet must be located above the floor level. The thickness of the walls, as a rule, reaches 12 centimeters.

Calculation and design

The calculation of the future floor is made before the purchase of materials. Preliminary draw up a drawing of pipe installation: at the locations of furniture or existing plumbing, it is not advised to lay contours. Each turn occupies no more than fifteen squares of area, and pipes should be chosen of approximately equal length, so large rooms must be divided. If in the room good thermal insulation, then the optimal laying step is 15 cm. When the temperature drops to -20 in winter, the step must be reduced to 10 centimeters. Average consumption pipes for each square meter of the room with a step of 15 cm - 6.7 m, with a step of 10 cm - 10 m.

The flux density is equal to the total heat loss in the room to the laying area minus the distance to the walls. To calculate the average temperature, take the average value at the inlet and outlet of the circuit. The difference between these temperatures cannot be more than 55 degrees. The length of the circuit is equal to the heating area divided by the laying step. The distance to the collector box is added to the result obtained.

The calculation is made individually for the premises, depending on their purpose and dimensions. The required power value is determined based on the received data on the planned temperature, heat losses and the top layer of the floor covering. If there are weak enclosing structures in the room, the base is covered with granite or marble slabs.

After calculations, a drawing is made that reflects the relative position of the pipe turns, taking into account the fact that the contours should not intersect. It is forbidden to lay pipes close to the walls, you need to retreat at least 10 cm.

Preparatory work

Floor installation can only be carried out in a fully finished room. Communications are preliminarily carried out, windows and doors are installed, niches are mounted for installing a collector shield. The base for laying must be leveled, the differences should not exceed five millimeters. Otherwise, high hydraulic performance will have a negative impact on the system - the laid pipes will “air up”.

The old floor must be dismantled and the surface leveled. If the base floor slab has an excess of more than 5 mm, then it is poured with an additional cement screed. In rooms with different floor levels, it is impossible to carry out uniform heating. Next, the surface is cleaned and waterproofing is laid. The waterproof layer prevents the penetration of moisture from lower levels to the floor heating system.

Laying waterproofing is optional when extruded polystyrene foam is used. Also, its position does not play a decisive role: the insulating layer can be placed both below and on top of the insulation.

It should be borne in mind that in the second case, it is necessary to lay a mounting grid on top. Waterproofing must cover 20 cm of adjacent walls. For reliability, the seams are fixed with tape.

A damper tape 5-8 mm thick and 10 to 15 cm high is glued on top of the waterproof material on the walls around the entire perimeter of the room. The upper edge of the tape should be cut after the final filling with a screed. If you want to make such a coating yourself, then you should not forget to screw it to the wall.

The next stage of construction is the laying of thermal insulation. The choice of the thickness of the sheet insulation depends on the number of storeys of the room: for the first floor - from 23 to 25 cm, and in the rooms of the second and third floors you can limit yourself to 3-5 cm. To increase the connection of the coating plates, it is customary to shift the joints.

final step preparatory work- the device of the reinforcing mesh. This design is necessary for the subsequent fixation of the pipes. The diameter of the rods is 4-5 mm, and the width of the cell is selected depending on the value of the step of laying the contours. The mesh layers are fastened together with wire.

Installation

When installing with your own hands, it is recommended to use a special device for unwinding the coil. When pipes are removed by rings, stress arises in the material, which significantly complicates subsequent work. It is customary to turn the bay. Further, on the layers of EPPS (insulation), the trajectory of the installation of future contours is marked in compliance with the step.

The manifold is installed first. Pumps and mixers are connected separately. Pipes must be protected with corrugation. Replacing the corrugations with thermal insulation of a suitable diameter will help to save significantly.

The assembly of the circuit should begin with the parts of the room farthest from the shield. All intermediate pipes must be wrapped with polyethylene foam insulation. This method will help to preserve and maintain the heat and energy balance for a long time. Then the end of the pipe is “removed” from the EPPS and launched along the intended contour without covering it with a heater. At the end, the pipe is led back into the thermal insulation and led to the connection to the collector.

In order to conduct pipes in the insulation was not difficult, builders advise pre-cutting the passage trenches in the material. If the insulation is laid in two layers, then communications should be put through them. In cases where hot and cold water supply lines pass in the places of future laying of the warm floor, it is customary to fix them in a bundle under the XPS boards.

After installing the contours, cavities and voids must be eliminated by yourself using mounting foam.

Installation rules

Direct installation of pipes consists of several stages.

  • 10-15 m of the reeled pipe is connected to the supply of the selected collector outlet.
  • The pipe follows the intended trajectory, is fixed with brackets in straight sections every 30-40 cm, when turning - 10-15 cm. Creases and stresses should be avoided.
  • If the bracket breaks, it must be duplicated at a distance of about 5 cm.
  • After the bypass is completed and the final output of the pipe, special insulation is put on it. The end must be connected to the manifold with a fitting.
  • The contour length data must be recorded for subsequent balancing.

Before pouring the screed, it is necessary to carry out hydraulic tests of the installed circuits. A hose is connected to the sewer to the collector. It is more practical to use a hose from transparent material to see the movement of air particles. A pressure test pump must be connected to the outlet of the circuit.

  • One uncovered circuit is left on the collector, automatic air vents are opened.
  • The water is turned on and its movement and the exit of air bubbles are visible through the attached hose.
  • The drain valve is closed after complete purification of the water and the release of all air.
  • The circuit is turned off and the cycle is repeated with all pipes.

If leaks are detected, the pressure should be reduced, and the faults should be eliminated. A properly laid heating system is an airless pipe system filled with purified heat carrier.

Testing with a pressure pump involves opening all circuits of the underfloor heating and the pump supply valve. The pressure is set to twice the operating pressure of the system - about 6 atmospheres. Its value must be controlled using a manometer. Half an hour later, the pressure is increased to 6 bar. Between approaches, a visual analysis of pipe joints is carried out. After the discovery of shortcomings, the pressure is released, the violations are eliminated.

If no faults were found, then the system is started for a day at a constant pressure of 6 bar. The pressure gauge should decrease by no more than 1.5 bar. If this condition is met and there are no leaks, the pipes are considered to be correctly and reliably laid.

In order for the circuits to be able to withstand high pressure without straightening, they must be fixed.

There are several ways to fix the pipes of a water-heated floor:

  • Tightening clamp. The material from which it is made is polyamide. This type of fastener is widely used due to its ease of use. Approximate consumption: 2 pcs per 1 m.
  • Steel wire for fasteners.
  • Fixing with a stapler is a convenient option for quickly installing circuits to insulating boards.
  • The U-shaped PVC bar is called the fixing track. Such fasteners are used to hold pipes with a diameter of 16 mm or more.
  • Polystyrene mats.
  • Distribution plate made of aluminum sheet is used when laying on a wooden floor. It is able to evenly distribute the temperature over the surface.

Screeding

After testing the pipes, it is necessary to fill the system with a screed. The brand of concrete should vary from M-300, the aggregate is crushed stone with a fraction of 5 to 20 mm. The fill must cover the pipes by at least 3 centimeters. This necessary condition both for uniform distribution of heat over the surface area of ​​the floor, and to obtain the desired strength. It follows from the calculations that with a thickness of 5 centimeters, a square meter of coating will reach a weight of 125 kg.

The heating time of the screed and the inertia of the TVP are directly proportional to its filling. If the thickness of the received material reaches 15 cm, then the system will need to recalculate thermal regime. Also, the thermal conductivity of the screed affects the value of the floor heating indicator. The strength characteristics of the screed should be increased, since this coating during operation experiences not only mechanical loads, but is also under constant temperature pressure. To achieve high physical and mechanical characteristics, components such as fiber and plasticizer are added to the concrete mass.

A plastic modifier is used to lower the water/cement ratio, resulting in an increase strength characteristics and increased slip. These properties are extremely important when laying the screed. Similar characteristics of the material can be obtained by increasing the water content. But such a decision may affect the strength of the screed. The plasticizer is produced both in dry and liquid form.

By adding fibers to concrete, the durability of the material increases and the service life increases. The fiber resists abrasion and increases strength characteristics during deformation. Microfibers of such material are made from basalt, metal or polypropylene. For underfloor heating screed in the apartment, preference should be given to the latter material. It is recommended to add at least 800 grams of this material per 1 m3.

Before pouring, the room must be cleaned of excess objects and contaminants.

The screed can be poured only once, so work should be done quickly. It is necessary to limit the penetration of cold air and direct sunlight into the room.

You can prepare a cement mortar yourself using tools such as a construction mixer or a concrete mixer.

Dry base - Portland cement is mixed with washed sand in a ratio of 1: 3. Water accounts for a third of the total mass of cement paste, but adding modifiers to the mixture can reduce its consumption.

The time and technology for preparing cement paste depends on the tool used. With a mixer, dry ingredients are first mixed at low speed, and then water is gradually poured in with soluble plasticizers previously added to it. Mixing time - from 5 to 7 minutes, depending on the power of the device. The concrete mixer is first filled with water, and after that dry ingredients are introduced and mixed for 4 minutes. You need to know that it is forbidden to throw the fiber into the drum without first loosening it.

Ready solution has a uniform texture and color. The material must hold its shape and release water when compressed. Concrete must be plastic, otherwise laying will not work.

Start pouring in stripes from the far wall of the room. In the process of laying the screed must be leveled, avoiding the occurrence of depressions. Some sagging of cement is allowed at the junction of the plates - they can be adjusted at the end of the process. A quality coating should not exfoliate. If the room temperature is maintained at 20 degrees and all laying rules are followed, the surface will begin to harden after 4 hours.

The floor is cleaned after a couple of days: this time is enough for the coating to harden. The screed must be regularly moistened and covered within 10 days after work. The floor will completely harden only after 28 days. Until this time, it is not recommended to turn on TVP.

On the wooden floor

In houses with a wooden coating, the heating floor can be divided into several types:

  • Single layer structures. Based on the thickness of the boards and the nature load-bearing structures, such systems are erected on logs, boards are laid on beams, keeping a distance of about 0.5 m between them.
  • In two-layer constructions a layer of insulation about 80 millimeters high is laid on top of the boards. An additional layer of insulator is allowed between the finishing and subfloor, leaving a gap of 4 mm. Due to this distance, air can circulate freely, preventing the destruction of the material.

Before laying the water floor, wooden structures require a detailed inspection for damage. Integrity violation wooden base- systems of load-bearing elements, lags and ceilings, prevents the laying of TVP. The gaps must be filled with thermal insulation.

You must first familiarize yourself with the state of the lags on which the floor is mounted. Underfloor heating as an independent structure is laid on top of the carrier wooden frame Houses.

To assess the condition of the floor, a visual inspection of the surfaces of the boards is carried out, the condition of the wood structure is checked. It is important to replace rotten and cracked boards. If the distance between the bearing elements exceeds the allowable, it is necessary to add lags. The surface of the old boards is leveled so that the irregularities do not exceed 2 mm.

This system does not use a substrate, so it is necessary to carefully prepare the future surface for laying. It is customary to lay sheets of plywood or boards on the logs, forming a raised floor - the basis for a heat insulator. Next, the structure is covered with a vapor barrier film so that the heat generated by the circuit goes up. Insulation with a thickness of not more than 10 cm lines the gaps between the lags. And an additional layer of insulator is placed on top of the structure.

Installation of "snake" pipes in this case is not possible. First, boards of a special configuration are laid with grooves measuring 20x20 mm. The edge of the boards is rounded for comfortable installation of pipes. The contours of the water floor are laid directly into the prepared grooves without much difficulty. Pipes are selected with a diameter of not more than 16 mm. To obtain maximum heat transfer, you can wrap the contour with foil, the edges of which are fixed with staples to the boards.

Wood has poor thermal conductivity. Therefore, when the premises are repaired with the installation of TVP, metal plates are attached over the pipe system. Such a "battery" should cover the entire floor area. In the final stages of design, it is necessary to make sure that the mixing unit shield is located above floor level, and the choice of finishing materials complies with sanitary and hygienic standards.

System start

After 28 days from the start of pouring the screed, you can start the system. Balancing is carried out using flow meters and balancing valves on the manifold. A pumping and mixing unit is being installed, the manifold is connected to the supply line. All valves open and all water floor circuits are connected. The circulation pump turns on.

First, the maximum temperature is set on the mixer without connecting the boiler. The moving coolant should not be warmer than the air in the room. The system is set to a working pressure of 1-3 bar. Then all circuits are blocked, except for the longest one, and its consumption is recorded. A similar operation is carried out with the second longest contour. The flow rate is equalized with a balancing valve. The indications of each pipe system should not differ from each other.

The test of the floor with carrier heating can only be started when the flow rate in all circuits is the same. At the beginning of the test, the minimum temperature is set, increasing by 5 degrees every day.

On mixing unit set the temperature indicator to 25 degrees and connect the circulation pump, moving at the first speed. In this mode, the system should work for about a day. In the course of work, circulation is monitored with its subsequent adjustment. Every 24 hours, when the temperature rises by 5 degrees, it is necessary to compensate for the difference in readings on the supply and return manifolds.

The speed of the circulation pump is increased at a difference of 10°C. The maximum possible collector temperature is 50 degrees. However, experts recommend considering options for setting the temperature in the range of 40-45 ° C. The pump must operate at minimum speed.

A change in the temperature regime can be felt only after a few hours of uninterrupted operation of the water floor system. To get the desired floor heating, it will take a long time and painstakingly to set the indicators of balancing valves and thermal heads.

The installation of beacons will help to significantly facilitate the task of filling the floor with a cement screed. In the role of beacons, PN 28 * 27 / UD 28 * 27 plasterboard profiles are mounted, which have a smooth surface and the necessary rigidity. Beacons are fixed to the height of the clean floor without taking into account the finish coating. The guide profile of the beacons must be located on a solid support: dowels and screws of sufficient size are suitable for fastening.

Pins - special screws for concrete, which do not require additional installation of dowels, will be the best solution. They reduce the drilling diameter while maintaining the surface. Lighthouses are fixed at a distance of 0.3 meters from the walls. The optimal distance between devices is 1.5 m.

Installation is as follows:

  • At a distance of 30 cm from the entrance to the room, installation lines for future devices are drawn.
  • The lines are divided into segments that are multiples of 150 cm, the stripes at the entrance may be slightly smaller than the others.
  • With a step of 40-50 cm, the location of the beacons is planned on the floor.
  • According to the given bastings, the necessary holes are made with a perforator and dowels are installed.
  • Lighthouses are fixed on the caps of the dowels, and their position is leveled by the building level. Guide profiles are fixed cement mortar screeds.

Common Mistakes

A number of mistakes made not only by beginners, but also by professionals are highlighted. If they are taken into account, anyone can assemble a complete, safely functioning system of water floor heating.

The most common mistake is installing a pipe with a length exceeding the maximum allowable. The length of the circuit should not exceed 70 m. Otherwise, problems with the circulation of the coolant appear in the design, which creates cold zones and increases energy costs.

Replacing the damper tape with analogues or its complete absence leads to the destruction of the screed coating. The resulting condensation at the junctions of the surfaces of the floor and walls has negative impact onto the concrete floor.

Error in the choice of installation method. The best choice for all beginners when laying floors is the “snail” method. Do not lay pipes with a complex geometric pattern, this can lead to problems in the further operation of the structure - the appearance of cracks in the material due to increased internal pressure.

In addition to the above nuances, there are several rules for pouring the screed:

  • If tiles are laid as a final coating, then the screed must be made with a thickness of 3 to 5 centimeters, distributing pipes at a distance of 10-15 cm. If this is not done, then the thermal gradient will be noticeable. This is the phenomenon of stripe alternation. different temperatures called "thermal zebra".
  • Under a light finish layer, such as a laminate, the screed should be made as thin as possible. A layer of reinforcement is laid on top of the warm floor to achieve the required strength characteristics. Such a system will significantly shorten the path from the contour surface to flooring. Thermal insulation material is not laid under the laminate or linoleum.

in the greenhouse

TVP is by far the most efficient and economical solution for soil heating in greenhouses. This statement is true only when the greenhouse is located at a distance of about 15 meters from central system home heating. Otherwise, it will be necessary to purchase a heating boiler and pumping unit. A small greenhouse area will allow you to combine subsoil heating with radiator heating.

Pipe contours are mounted directly into the ground to the depth required for a particular type of plant. The average value reaches approximately 40-50 cm. Each circuit serves as heating for its ridge. Preference should be given to pipes made of polyethylene, since the metal, after being treated with an anti-corrosion agent, reaches high temperatures and can damage the root system.

The first stage of the installation of the heating system is the development of a trench at a depth of occurrence future design. The trench is lined with a layer of polyethylene film, which provides waterproofing. Next, the insulator is laid and the film is laid again. This sequence prevents condensate from running off.

between pipes and insulating coating have a layer of wet sand. The compacted mass should be at least 10-15 cm thick. Concrete screed is not used in greenhouses. To protect circuits from mechanical damage an array of sand is covered with slate or metal plates. It is advisable to make the thickness of the top layer of fertile soil at least 35-40 cm.

fine finish

After the screed, the finished surface is covered with a finishing material. Tiles and laminate have been leading products in the building materials market for many years. Installing a laminate on a cement screed requires taking into account some features. Unlike laminate flooring on a cold floor, it is not customary to lay insulating material under the heating floor. It is also necessary to leave a gap of 10-15 cm at the edge of the walls for air circulation.

The floor must not be covered with cold material: you must first bring the laminate into the room so that its temperature becomes room temperature. Sheets are recommended to be laid out, and not kept in piles: this way the surface will warm up evenly.

Laminate gives good performance for wear resistance and durability. However, its thermal conductivity is significantly lower than that of floor tiles. Some samples may contain chemical compounds, which evaporate under the influence of heat and can harm the health of their owners.

Underfloor heating is a heating system that uses hot water as a heat source for a room. The principle of operation of such a heating system is quite simple: special flexible pipes, through which the hot coolant is distributed.

The source of heat for such a heating system is a central heating system or a gas boiler. You can do the installation of a water-heated floor with your own hands, but before that you will need to draw up a project correctly and decide on the connection method.

The water floor heating system installed in the apartment consists of:

  • Water heating boiler;
  • circulation pump;
  • Ball valves installed at the inlet to the boiler;
  • Pipes for distributing and laying the heating main;
  • Collector;
  • Control and adjustment systems;
  • Fittings connecting the manifold to the pipeline.

The boiler, which you yourself need to connect to the plumbing heating system, can be:

  • Electric;
  • gas;
  • solid fuel;
  • On liquid fuel.

The circulation pump is included with most boiler models, but before installing it, you should make a calculation and find out if it has enough power for the underfloor heating system. The power of the heating circuit, (kW) and the temperature of the coolant are taken into account.

The collector distributes hot water along the heating circuit - with its help, the underfloor heating in the apartment is adjusted and adjusted. You can make and connect a collector using metal-plastic pipes with your own hands - this will save money on installing the system.

The cake of a water-heated floor laid in a screed is divided into three layers - these are:

  • Shielding substrate;
  • Heating circuit;
  • Finish flooring.

A foil-coated film is used as a shielding substrate. The film protects the heating circuit from possible heat losses.

A pie of a water-heated floor without a screed consists of:

  • primary sex;
  • Thermal insulation layer, best of all - a special polystyrene plate;
  • Aluminum plates for pipe laying;
  • heating pipes;
  • Substrates;
  • Finishing coverage.

Comparing water and electric underfloor heating, it should be noted that:

  • It is more difficult and expensive to design and install a water floor than an electric one, but its operation is much cheaper. Heating 10 sq. m., the water floor consumes only 1.5 kW of electricity per hour.
  • The water floor heating system is characterized by the complexity of adjusting the temperature in the apartment. Adjusting the heating of electric floors is quite simple.
  • Starting floor heating with a water system takes much less time than with an electric one.
  • With a large area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, it is possible to make a water floor the main source of heating, with a small area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, it is recommended to carry out heating with an electric underfloor heating.

Underfloor heating project

H2_2

Optimum floor heating temperature.

The project drawing up instruction requires the availability of initial data, which includes the level of heat loss of the entire building and each room separately. In addition, it is necessary to calculate in advance the temperature value that should be in each room.

The technology is focused on averaged data, so the water floor generates an average of 100 W / m2 of energy, which is equal to the average heat loss of an “average building”. When drawing up a project, it must be borne in mind that a warm water floor in each room will cover various heat losses. So, for example, in the bedroom they are 50 W / m2, in the hall 100 W / m2, in the bathroom 75 W / m2.

Pipe laying scheme

Pipes for a heat transfer system are made of cross-linked polyethylene, polypropylene, copper, metal-plastic or of stainless steel. The advantage of polypropylene pipes is their low cost. Metal-plastic products retain shape stability and do not deform. Copper pipes have a long service life and a high degree of thermal conductivity. Pipes made of cross-linked polyethylene are characterized by high thermal stability and strength.

Before you start laying the floor water heating system with your own hands, you must select the pipeline pitch. Here, the step is the distance between the laid pipes that perform floor heating. The pipe laying step affects how evenly the temperature will be distributed over the floor surface.

The laying instruction allows you to use a step from 5 to 60 cm, but most often the pipes are laid in increments of 15-30 cm. The choice of this parameter must be made depending on the type and characteristics of the room, as well as indicators of its calculated heat load. For example, it is recommended to install a pipe system with a laying step of 15 cm in bathrooms and all those rooms where it is important to evenly distribute heat over the floor surface at a heating load level of more than 85 W / m2. You can lay the pipes yourself with an orientation to the following schemes:


When implementing the “snail” laying scheme, the pipeline must be laid in a spiral, which unwinds from the center of the room to the walls. "Snail" is the most popular and common method of laying pipes with your own hands. The design of such a scheme makes it possible for the supply and return to be located nearby, which helps to equalize the average floor temperature, in which cold zones will not occur.

Such a scheme allows heating to be carried out in the coldest areas located along the outer walls. Reverse loop instructions allow mounting closer to the center of the room. It is possible to do laying with a snake in rooms with a floor slope - it is important to correctly lay the heating circuit in the highest part of the room. This will contribute to the independent exit of air from the pipeline to the collector.

The layout of pipes with a double snake allows you to smooth out uneven floor heating. To perform this installation, you need to make double loops of the supply and return circuits. The laying technology allows the combination of “snail” and “snake” schemes - snake pipes are laid along the perimeter of the walls, and in the middle of the room they are laid in a spiral.

All presented methods directly depend on the characteristics of the room and the angle of the floor.

Advice! In the coldest areas, it is necessary to increase the density of the serpentine laying step to 10 cm, especially for areas near external walls.

Ways to connect the underfloor heating system

Do-it-yourself connection of the water floor follows the “pipe-collector-boiler” connection chain. The most common options are:

  • Collector systems.
  • Connection using three-way mixers;
  • Connection with a circulation pump.

When connected using a collector, the system is mounted in such a way that return and supply pipes can be freely connected to the collector cabinet. Further, tank collector outlets are connected to the pipes, providing the supply and return flow of the coolant. The design is supplied shut-off valves, with thermometers installed in them to monitor the temperature regime.

Fixing pipes, valves and other elements is carried out using compressor fittings. In addition, the collectors can be fastened to the water floor contour using special connections - a brass nut, a clamping ring or a support sleeve. On last step the collector is connected to the heating pipes.

If you install and connect a system with a three-way mixer, then it should be installed at the outlet of the return circuit. You can mount such a system with your own hands by directly connecting a three-way mixer using pipes to the boiler.

The collector must be supplemented with a splitter, on the upper side of which an air vent is installed. This element will ensure the removal of air bubbles from closed system. Fastening of all chain components can be done with fittings or clamping rings.

If the system has a low water pressure, and the mixer is not needed, then you can install a circulation pump equipped with a thermostat. The pump can be connected to the central heating system, but this must be done after agreement with the permitting authorities of the Housing Office. It is advisable to install the pump on the return circuit of the system, since when installed on the supply circuit, it will take excess water which can damage the central heating system.

How to install a warm water floor with a screed

The underfloor heating system is installed in the following order:

  1. The foundation is being prepared - the main requirement for subfloor it is a flat surface and dry.
  2. being laid waterproofing layer. As a waterproofing, ordinary polyethylene film can be used. The film is spread over the entire surface and glued with adhesive tape at the joints.
  3. The damper tape is laid. You need to do this around the entire perimeter of the room.
  4. mounted thermal insulation layer. Expanded polystyrene foam can be used, on top of which a foil-coated film is laid.
  5. In accordance with the markup, pipes are laid.

After the hydraulic tests are carried out, the turn comes concrete pouring. In order to make reinforcement, you should use metal mesh with a wire cross section of 5 mm, with a mesh size of 10x10 or 15x15 cm. The finishing screed can be poured from mixtures for self-leveling floors, special building mixtures or mortar with the addition of a plasticizer. The thickness of the concrete layer in this case should not be more than 30-35 mm.

Advice! An aluminum bar with a length of up to 2 m is best suited for leveling an uncured screed. The bar will help you quickly and efficiently complete the initial leveling.

After completion of the work, you need to wait for the complete solidification of the fill, and then lay the decorative coating.

How to install without a screed

A warm water-type floor can be installed without the use of a concrete screed - under a polystyrene base or wooden flooring.

Laying under a polystyrene base is carried out in the following order:

  1. In accordance with the preliminary marking, the polystyrene foam base is laid in the form of plates. They are fastened to each other with special snap locks.
  2. Aluminum plates are laid in the grooves, on top of which pipes are laid with an orientation to the laying plan of the heating circuit.
  3. A waterproofing layer can be laid on top of the plates - an ordinary plastic film will do.
  4. The top coat is laid on top of the plates.

When using wooden modules, the following actions are performed:

  1. The modules are placed on the logs, while maintaining a step of 600 mm.
  2. A waterproofing and insulating layer is laid between the lags.
  3. The modules are interlocked with each other with special locks.
  4. Metal plates are placed on top of the layer of prepared modules.
  5. On top of the metal plates, pipes are laid according to the selected scheme.
  6. If tiles or linoleum will be laid under a warm wooden floor, you will need to prepare flat surface- put on top of metal plates drywall sheets or chipboard, fix them and seal all joints and cracks with putty.

Comfort in the house is achieved by a whole range of measures, including comfortable temperature. Increasingly, in modern dwellings as the main or additional heating use warm water floors.

For this, heating pipes are placed in the floor, and the coolant is still hot water, which circulates through them. Water heating is carried out using an autonomous boiler. Sometimes they use the system central heating, but this method requires mandatory coordination with a number of instances.

In addition, it is necessary to develop wiring diagrams for warm water floors in the apartment: the quality of the construction and, ultimately, the comfort in the house, which we are striving for, depend on this.

If the owners of cottages with independent heating there is no alternative to connecting water floors, then those who live in apartments always have the idea whether it is possible to use hot water supply or central heating system by connecting to them "for free".

Some, by the way, do just that at their own peril and risk. Most often, such initiatives are directly prohibited by local laws.

Warm water floors are one of the modern methods of creating comfortable living conditions. They can be both the main source of heat during the heating season, and additional

For example, we can mention Decree N 73-pp of February 8, 2005, in force on the territory of Moscow. A ban on the conversion of public water systems to underfloor heating is contained in the second appendix to this document.

Violation of the rule is fraught with administrative punishment. You can get a fine after the on-duty visit of plumbers or as a result of complaints from other residents apartment building which, due to your uncoordinated actions, have lost their heating.

It is possible that such a connection is allowed in your region, but only after carrying out the appropriate examination, additional calculations and drawing up diagrams that are necessary so that the overall operation of the system is not disrupted and your neighbors are not affected.

To carry out such work technically, it is necessary to use a separate pumping and mixing unit, which will ensure that the standard pressure level is maintained at the outlet.

Temperatures and finishes

In accordance with SNiP 41-01-2003, in residential premises the average floor temperature should be 26 ° C, and in non-residential premises - 31 ° C, as in rooms with high humidity such as bathroom. Above the pipe, the maximum floor temperature is 35°C.

When a laminate or parquet is used as a final coating, the maximum floor temperature cannot exceed 27°C, and when using carpet - 31°C. Special sanitary norms regulate the temperature of the coating in places of permanent residence of children (VSN 49-86): it should not be more than 24 ° C.

Experts say that the optimal finish coatings, in which the use of heated floors gives best effect, are porcelain stoneware and tiles.

Indeed, their advantages are obvious:

  • these are durable and strong materials;
  • when heated, no harmful substances are released;
  • the high heat capacity of these coatings allows you to walk on them barefoot without discomfort.

However, water floors are used in combination with other finishes. In particular, with linoleum and such carpet, which has a special mark.

Classic water floor

To mount pipes on the floor surface, you must choose one of three ways to arrange them:

  • Concrete screed. The pipes are large enough that they cannot be covered tile adhesive. To fix them, a concrete screed is used, which must be poured to a height of at least three centimeters above the surface of the pipe.
  • Styrofoam. This method is less popular due to the greater complexity. When using it in polystyrene foam, it is necessary to cut grooves. You will have to do this manually. Then the pipes themselves are laid in the grooves, over which the screed is poured.
  • wooden grooves. This most time-consuming method is sometimes used in dwellings with wooden floors. By stuffing boards on the floor, they create a gutter of the shape that is needed to accommodate the pipes.

Now imagine what is the cost of an error when performing a calculation or choosing an installation scheme for a heated floor, if it is arranged using a concrete screed. You will have to partially or even completely dismantle the screed itself.

Certainly it will suffer interior decoration premises. Therefore, each stage of work should be treated with all responsibility.

We carry out the necessary calculations

We proceed to the calculation of a warm water floor. It must be done even before the stage of purchasing the material. So we will know what material we have to buy, and in what quantity.

In addition, we need a subsequent installation scheme with carefully drawn contours. Keep this diagram, because knowing the exact location of each pipe will allow you to avoid serious complications that may arise during the repair work.

Norms and rules

When performing the calculation, be guided by the following rules:

  • pipes do not need to be laid where any furniture (wardrobe, sofa, and so on) or plumbing items will always be located;
  • to maintain pressure in the system with a circuit diameter of 20 mm, its length cannot exceed 120 meters (for 16 mm - 100 meters), in other words, the approximate area that one circuit will occupy should not be more than 15 square meters. meters;
  • several circuits should be placed in a large room, the difference in length of which should not be more than 15 meters: they should have approximately equal length;
  • if you have good thermal insulation in your house, then the pipes should be laid in increments of 15 cm; in winter frosts of -20 ° C, the step can be reduced to 10 cm over the entire area of ​​​​the room or only along the outer walls;
  • a step of 15 cm corresponds to an approximate consumption of pipes in the amount of 6.7 m per 1 sq. meter, if laying is carried out every 10 cm, then the consumption per unit area will be 10 meters;
  • The minimum bending radius of the pipe corresponds to five of its diameters.

Residents of the north cannot do without heating radiators: there will be too few heated floors alone.

If you look at this graph of thermal comfort, you can see that the air temperature graph for the “warm floor” system is closer to the ideal than the temperature graph for radiator heating systems.

Of course, the calculation of a warm water floor is carried out taking into account the specific data of the room and the area where it will be installed. For example, the basic characteristics of a room that will have underfloor heating are its type, area and configuration.

If we abstract from external indicators, then the schedule for calculating the floor heating will look like it is shown in the photo below. The graph shows the dependence of the heat flux density in the pipes on the average coolant temperature.

At the same time, several options are indicated for different pitches and for different pipe diameters: for a diameter of 16 mm, the straight line is shown by a dotted line, and for a diameter of 20 mm, by a solid line.

When considering this underfloor heating calculation schedule, you can see how many indicators need to be calculated in order to create that design that is ideal for your home.

The values ​​shown in this graph are valid if the finish is tile and the installation method is a 7 cm thick concrete screed. If the screed thickness is only increased by 1 cm, the heat flux density will decrease by 5-8 percent.

The density of the effective heat flux given off by 1 sq. meter of underfloor heating is calculated by dividing the sum of the heat loss of a given room, expressed in watts, by the area that the pipes will occupy. In this case, the indents from the wall must be subtracted.

The average coolant temperature is defined as average for water at the outlet and inlet to the heating circuit. The water should not be hotter than 55°C, and the temperature difference is usually 5-10 degrees.

Factors affecting heat loss

For the calculation, it is important to determine the level of heat loss. This value is influenced by:

  • materials from which the house is built;
  • type of glazing, including the type of double-glazed window and profile;
  • temperature regime in the region where the property is located;
  • the possibility of using additional heat sources for heating purposes;
  • room parameters;
  • the planned temperature regime for this room;
  • floor where the room is located.

An important factor is the thickness of the existing floor, its current insulation and the planned finish.

Choosing the “right” pipes

The data that we receive as a result of measurements will help us determine the power of an electric or gas boiler, heating heat pump and find out the distance between the pipes.

The need for pipes also depends on what types of pipes we will use during installation.

Corrugated pipes made of stainless metal are the most durable and functional when installing warm water floors, but such pleasure is expensive

Types of pipes that are used for the construction of warm water floors:

  • corrugated stainless steel - they are of high quality and excellent heat dissipation;
  • copper pipes - expensive, but with impressive heat dissipation;
  • polyethylene crosslinked pipes;
  • metal-plastic - perfect option the ratio of price and quality of the product;
  • foam products are inexpensive, but also with low thermal conductivity.

Based on the information received and measurements, preliminary draft calculations can be made.

The approximate length of the pipes is calculated by dividing the active heating area (in sq. M) by their laying step (in m). Do not forget to refine the bend and add the distance to the collector. Knowing the diameter of the pipes and the length, it is possible to determine the speed and volume of the coolant. Optimal Performance are 0.15-1 m / s. If the speed of movement is higher, you need to choose pipes with a larger diameter.

To choose the right pump for the heating circuit, you need to know the need for water - a heat carrier with a 20% margin. Such a margin is needed, given the resistance of compressible water that occurs in the pipes.

Competently and accurately all of the above and others necessary calculations can only be done by a professional. We offer you two video stories on the topic of calculating warm water floors.

Water floor wiring diagrams

There are not so many wiring diagrams for laying warm water floors:

  • snake. Installation is carried out with hinges.
  • Snail. Pipes are arranged in a spiral.
  • Combined.

Scheme # 1 - classic "snail"

When a snail-shaped installation is used, the pipes through which hot water is supplied to the room, and those through which the cooled water returns, are placed over the entire area of ​​​​the room and run parallel to each other.

The space is heated evenly. If the room in which the installation takes place has a wall facing the street, a double helix can be used in it. A small spiral is placed along the cold wall, and a second spiral is placed on the remaining area.

The spiral really looks like a snail. When its coils are located close to the “cold” outer wall rooms, the step between structural elements can be reduced

Advantages:

  • heating is uniform
  • hydraulic resistance decreases;
  • the spiral requires fewer pipes;
  • the bend is smooth, so the step can be shortened.

The disadvantages of such a scheme are laborious laying, and the complexity of design compared to other layout options.

The coils of the spiral evenly cover the entire room, giving off heat equally actively over the entire surface of the floor. The pipe shown in blue in the diagram, which drains the cooled water, also runs throughout the room.

Scheme # 2 - laying with a snake

This laying option is appropriate in a room that is divided into functional zones in which the use of different temperature regimes is expected.

If the first coil is launched around the perimeter of the room, and a single snake is created inside it, then one half of the room will be well warmed by the incoming hot water, and in the second half the cooled water will circulate and it will be cool.

A simple snake is most often used in rooms where zoning is used: somewhere the floor surface can be warmer, and somewhere cooler

You can apply another version of the same styling - a double snake. With it, the return and supply pipes pass throughout the room next to each other.

The third option is a corner snake. It is used for corner rooms in which not one, but two walls face the street.

Snake loops can also cover the room evenly, but the fact that the pipes in this case are more curved than when laying a spiral is immediately striking

Advantages:

  • such a scheme is simple to design and implement.

Flaws:

  • temperature difference in one room;
  • the bend of the pipes is steep enough to lead to a break with a small step.

Scheme # 3 - combined option

Not all rooms have rectangular shape. For such rooms and for those that have two outer walls, develop combined options styling.

If the room next to the outer walls needs to be heated more intensively, it is possible to lay hot pipes there, located in loops, which are sometimes located almost at right angles to each other.

Another possibility of heating the room along a cold wall is to reduce the pipe spacing in this particular place.

Not every room in modern individual buildings can retain a rectangular shape. To cover such a surface with water-heated floors, combined laying is necessary.

If you want to install a heated water floor in your city apartment located in apartment building, you will most likely need special permission.

And this type of heating can only function during the heating season. But modern new houses, even at the stage of project creation, provide for just such warm floors. They operate from a single autonomous boiler and can operate year-round.

Combined installation is an excellent installation option that helps out when the room requires separation into heating zones

Video example of installing a water-heated floor

We offer you a video in which the schemes for installing a water floor are clearly presented.

 
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