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How to make a homemade shower tray. Do-it-yourself shower tray: everything ingenious is simple. Sealing the seams with the wall and finishing waterproofing

Stores have huge selection pallets from various materials, but not always the opinion of manufacturers may coincide with the consumer. In this case, the container for collecting water in the shower box can always be made by hand. However, for optimal results, you need to know the rules of construction. Do you agree?

We will talk about how to properly make a pallet of tiles for a shower cabin. We will show you how to choose the shape and size homemade design, ideal for the equipped hygienic room. The construction of such useful homemade allows you to solve several important problems at the same time.

Any preparatory work start with the purchase of consumables and tools. Job going faster and it’s easier when everything is at hand, and you don’t need to constantly run to a specialized store for one thing or another.

So, to implement the project, we can not do without:

• Capacities, where we will mix concrete for screed, mortar for bricks and adhesive base for tiles.
• short rule for screed and trowel.
• building level.
• Trowel and spatulas- rubber and notched for tile adhesive.
• screwdriver- cross or straight, depending on the type of fastener caps by which the ladder is assembled, and a screwdriver, if you need to assemble the formwork and make spacers.
• Drills with mixing attachment if too lazy to mix the solution manually.
• Bulgarians with a disc for ceramics, if you have to cut a brick, and with a metal disc, if you have to cut metal mesh and fittings.
• Grouts.
• mallets(rubber mallet).
• brushes for applying mastic.

Surely almost everything you need is already in the arsenal of the owner of the home, otherwise the missing tools will either have to be bought in addition or borrowed from relatives, friends or neighbors.

Scheme of the structure of the pallet of tiles in the internal section. In this version of the scheme, there is no primary layer of waterproofing. Its presence is not so critical if the owner lives in his own house, otherwise it is better to play it safe

What else is required for work?

When all necessary tools for work, a diagram of the future pallet has already been assembled and drawn, you can start purchasing building and consumables.

So, during construction you can not do without:

• ladder or.
• Bricks. In the case of solid concrete pouring, it will be necessary to stock up on formwork boards. In the case of erecting a side of a pallet in the shape of an ideal quarter of a circle, it is better to make formwork from fiberboard.
• Mayakov.
• and a roller for its application.
• Bitumen, roofing felt or dense polyethylene film - depending on preference.
• - if insulation is required.
• Sand and cement M400, or universal mixture M150, or M200.
• plasticizers and hydrophobic water-repellent additives.
• Metal mesh for reinforcing the screed, if its width does not exceed 10 cm.
• Reinforcement, if the side is reinforced concrete, and not made of brick.
• Waterproof tile adhesive and crosses.
• tiles or mosaic tiles, necessarily non-slip varieties.

When everything is ready, you can safely proceed to the construction shower tray.

Step-by-step instruction on the device of the pallet

If the bathroom floor is concrete, as is the case with apartment buildings, or already available concrete screed, This is good. You can immediately proceed to the construction of the sides and waterproofing, after carefully cleaning the surface.

If the base is not ideal, previously there was a wooden floor, etc., before the direct erection of the structure, it is necessary to pour the screed.

Stage #1 - surface preparation

For the manufacture of a mixture for screed, a conventional cement-based mortar is suitable. M400 and mixed in a ratio of 2 parts of sand to 1 part of cement.

In order not to bother with measuring the ingredients for the solution, you can simply purchase a universal mixture M150 or M200.

It is imperative to drain the drain before pouring the base, otherwise you will have to crush the poured concrete pillow with a puncher to correct your mistake made by forgetfulness. IN this case this is not critical, since the ladder is mounted directly on the floor screed. But in the case of pouring an additional foundation, forgetfulness can go sideways

Mixed with a drill with a mixing nozzle in the right proportions indicated on the bag, and the solution is ready.

Actions should be performed in the following order:

1. We do layering for in advance, so that later you don’t have to chop up a new one concrete slab perforator.
2. We expose the formwork the shape and size of the future pallet, not forgetting that its future sides will also be located on this pallet. Therefore, when marking, it is worth bearing in mind the thickness of the tile and the thickness of the tile adhesive layer (from the front and outer side, and therefore - double) and the width of the brick. If the screed will be poured around the entire perimeter of the bathroom, for example, in the case of installing a warm floor or a major alteration of the floors, formwork will not be required. The sides of the pallet can be initially erected on a screed.
3. If the base is 7 cm wide, install metal mesh at a height of 3 cm above the floor. If the screed is wider than 10 cm, reinforcement is not needed. The plate will come out of an excellent fortress anyway.
4. Preparing the mixture according to given proportions. In the case of expanded clay concrete, expanded clay is added to the mixture at the rate of 1 × 1, that is, for a bucket of mortar - a bucket of expanded clay.
5. So inside formwork and on walls mark by level at the height of the future screed.
6. Fill the screed. Align with a small rule, trowel or trowel.

Now we wait until the screed seizes and dries. It will be possible to return to the continuation of work no earlier than on the third day after pouring the screed.

In the case of an all-concrete mixture, the weight of a poured draft slab measuring 90x90 cm and 10 cm high will be at least 180 kg. Therefore, for residents multi-storey buildings it would be best to dilute the concrete with expanded clay. A slab of expanded clay concrete will come out 4 times easier.

Stage # 2 - waterproofing and installing a drain

Waterproofing can be of two options - roofing felt or plastic film. Some prefer to completely fill or coat with bitumen.

The effect of any of the selected materials in the case of a shower cabin for private apartments and houses will be on top.

Install drain drain. In order to ensure good drain the drain funnel itself should be slightly higher to ensure the slope of the drain pipe is at least 3 degrees

If you need to insulate the future pallet, now is the time for this. We will immediately make a reservation that it is worth choosing polystyrene foam, and it is advisable to lay it immediately on a rough screed around the perimeter of the side.

In the case of insulation, it can be partially recessed into polystyrene foam. We took this moment into account, now we boldly take up the installation of the selected and prepared ladder. All the details of which must be assembled perfectly.

The upper edges of the drain funnel must be clearly leveled. And so that in the future it does not deviate, it is best to fix it on alabaster

If, when installing the ladder, you did something somewhere or assembled it wrong, then, in order to fix the problem, you will have to “break” the entire pallet with a perforator again, and the ladder will most likely have to be thrown out and a new one installed.

Stage # 3 - the construction of the sides

The sides are best erected immediately after the filled pillow has solidified and the ladder has been installed. In the future, they will serve as a natural boundary for waterproofing and insulation, as well as formwork for the main screed.

Now we do the calculation. We calculate how high the side of 1 brick laid out on the side edge will be:

• mortar layer above the rough screed (under the brick) - 5 mm;
• the brick itself - 120 mm;
• layer of tile adhesive - 5 mm;
• tiles - 3-5 mm.

It turns out that the height of the brick side will be 135 mm, according to the maximum value.

The brick side must be strictly aligned. The markings should be drawn at right angles, both in relation to the side to the side, and in relation to the side to the wall. In this case, the vertical is determined using the hydraulic level, but the usual level is also suitable.

But keep in mind that on the inside of the booth we still have to lay:

• waterproofing layer- 1-2 mm, if it is mastic and roofing material;
• insulation- 50 mm if it is polystyrene foam;
• coupler- from 4 to 10 cm, depending on the height of the drain device of the ladder;
• layer of tile adhesive– 5 mm;
• tiles- 3-5 mm.

Then internal arrangement the pallet will come out with a height of 82 mm according to the maximum values. Now we subtract 82 from 135 mm, it turns out 53 mm. It is this height of the side that should be relative to the inner finishing surface of the pallet. In fact, this height is slightly more matchbox.

If it seems small to someone, you will have to, armed with a grinder, cut off blocks from bricks the right sizes and lay them on top of a solid brick. In calculations, it should be taken into account that in this case, one more layer from the solution will be added to the size of the cut block.

The side was erected in strict accordance with the drawn lines, vertical and horizontal levels, as in conventional masonry. Brick is desirable to use red, moisture resistant. If you want to make the pallet higher, you will have to make a second level of masonry

In order to start laying out the brick side, you should prepare a mixture of water, cement and sand in a ratio of 1: 1: 3 with the addition of plasticizers and hydrophobic additives.

Brick is better to use red M-125. It has the highest moisture resistance of all varieties. When laying, it is desirable to use a special reinforced mesh.

Upon completion of the masonry, in order to proceed to the next steps, you will have to wait a couple of days until the solution completely sets and dries.

Stage # 4 - pouring the main screed

During the pouring of the screed, we pay attention to the fact that the upper grate of the ladder will have to be located above it at the height of the layer of glue and tiles.

This reserve is made so that in the future, when laying the tiles, the drain grate could go with it “to zero” or slightly lower, depending on design features the ladder itself. After the construction of the main screed, before the next steps, you will have to wait again until the concrete hardens.

It is better to fill the main screed according to pre-set beacons installed under a barely noticeable slope to the drain. The funnel of the ladder after pouring concrete should rise above the screed

Step #5 - Re-Waterproofing

Repeated waterproofing should not be neglected. Having spent money and time on the acquisition and application waterproofing mastic, you will protect yourself from leaks and accumulation of moisture in the structural elements.

And this means that neighbors from below, whom you constantly heat up, will not scribble complaints about you, and you yourself will be spared from eternal dampness and the occurrence of fungus in the bathroom.

After applying the mastic over the entire surface of the screed, along the inner and upper parts of the sides, you should again wait until it dries. Only after complete hardening on it, you can start laying tiles or tiled mosaics.

A layer of waterproofing over the main screed is required. It can also be applied with a roller, but in this case the surface for processing is not so extensive, so a brush is also suitable, with which, moreover, you can smear the corners more thoroughly.

Stage #6 - ceramic tiling

Any options will look great, but those where the side is tiled are especially spectacular, and inner part pallet - tiled mosaic. In any case, it all depends on the choice of the owner.

So, in case facing works actions look like this:

1. We prepare the adhesive mixture based on the proportions and consistency indicated in the instructions for the purchased variety of tile adhesive. Some manufacturers produce glue that can set very quickly, so do not immediately knead the whole bucket. At first, especially if you have never done this before, it is worth trying to make batches in small batches.
2. If you are faced with laying tiles for the first time, then know that this is not so hard work, as experienced "tilers" and "tilers" like to talk about her. The main thing is patience and accuracy. The very first thing to know finishing should always start from one of the corners. We collect glue with a notched trowel, apply it to the back of the tile, apply it to the pallet from the corner, press it.
3. Each tile must be checked for level. In the case of a slightly inclined bottom, the level itself along the horizon is not so critical. The main thing here is that all the tiles are in the same plane. A rubber mallet is used for leveling. For perfect evenness of laying tiles - special crosses, located between the tiles at the corners. Each of the tiles should fit snugly against the stuck-in sides of the crosses.
4. If the tiles at the edges do not fit, you will have to cut them off with a grinder equipped with a ceramic circle.
5. Upon completion of the laying of the cladding, the next day, remove the crosses, clean the seams from excess glue and grout with a specially prepared grout mixture using a rubber spatula. After the excess grout is removed from the joints with a slightly damp sponge.
6. The joints where the plane of the pallet converges with the walls and sides, as well as the corners of the sides, it is advisable to seal with a transparent sealant.
7. Only after complete curing of the grout and sealant is it recommended to wash the laid tiles.

Often masters prefer to apply glue directly to the surface, and not to the tile itself. You can try this and that. As you like more and as it will be more convenient for you - do it. But do not forget that there should be enough glue under the tile so that there is no empty space under it that is not filled adhesive mixture.

Laying mosaic tiles is not much different from laying traditional tiles. Glue is applied to the base. The mosaic itself is smoothed in strict accordance with the specified level.

Step #7 - Curing and Drying

It is advisable to start installing the fence and taking a shower only after the newly made pallet has thoroughly seized and, as they say, “reaches”.

To speed up this process, ensure that the temperature in the bathroom is between 25-30 ° C, good air circulation and the absence of humidity. It is advisable to keep the doors in the room open. In a day or two it will be possible to install a fence and wash.

Upon completion of the grouting work, all surfaces are thoroughly washed from the remnants of building materials and, after daily drying, the newly made pallet is ready for use

Features of the construction of the sides

If it was decided to build a pallet with a solid reinforced concrete side in the shape of a quarter of a circle, then it is worth taking into account some features.

In this case, the construction of the sides begins with the stage of pouring a rough screed under the future pallet. Under it, you will have to initially make a high formwork, so that it later also serves as the outer side of the formwork for the side.

A do-it-yourself rounded shower tray with a tile finish will be less traumatic because it will not have protruding corners, and will also make the shower cabin more compact and aesthetic

Immediately after pouring and leveling the base, 4-5 cuts of reinforcement with a section of 10 should be patched into its edges along the perimeter. These will be ribs for the longitudinal reinforcement of the side.

So that they do not have to be cut off by a grinder later, adjusting in height, it is better to initially cut them a little less height future side. Its height can be calculated in the same way as in the case of a brick side.

Formwork is best done from fiberboard. The hardboard bends excellently, and reinforced with props and struts, it will be as strong as a board. It is best to make corners of bars under it as stops, which will provide the future side with a stable vertical level.

After the screed has hardened, a pair of rows of 8-s reinforcement should be tied to the reinforcement bars that have hardened along the perimeter of the base. It can be a solid, bent according to the required parameters of the circle, reinforcement or pieces, with which it is necessary to connect the vertically sticking reinforcement rods longitudinally with a knitting wire.

After that, the inner wall of the rim formwork is constructed from the fiberboard with the help of spacers, after which it can be poured.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

The whole process of building a shower tray is presented in the following video:

As you can see, the construction process is not particularly complicated. The main thing is to develop a project and not be too lazy to bring it to mind. Well, the tools. If they are available at home or they can be borrowed from a neighbor, in a word, you don’t have to spend money on buying them.

The entire construction of the pallet will cost the owner several times cheaper than the cost of the same acrylic pallet of dubious production, which, most likely, will have to be thrown into the trash in a year and a half.

The resulting shower tray with a tile finish, made with your own hands, and even if somewhat imperfect in some ways, will always faithfully last not years, but decades.

Please leave comments in the block below. Ask questions and publish photos on the topic of the article. Tell us about how the pallet was built for shower box you yourself with my own hands or any of your friends.

Considering the passage of time modern people more and more preferred quick methods adoption of hygiene procedures.

There is no doubt that soaking in a hot bubble bath is a real pleasure, but what if there is simply no time for such relaxation? In this situation, a shower comes to the rescue.

As a rule, taking a shower is less time-consuming procedure.

Modern shower cabins have a lot of options that can satisfy any desire of consumers. Depending on the model and cost of the shower cabin, you can get a shower with a steam room and other functions.

But what if all these technical innovations are not needed, and the cost of a shower cabin is high? In such a situation, you can resort to building a shower with your own hands. In addition, the shower cabins presented in stores do not always correspond to the required dimensions.

And if the presence of a shower is required for giving or country house where use occurs only one season a year, then a do-it-yourself shower is an excellent solution.

When creating a soul, you can use various materials that meet the required specifications.

Shower Materials

In order to start making a shower with your own hands, you need to think through everything to the smallest detail. You should start with the room itself, it must be insulated, have waterproofing, as well as a well-thought-out water drainage system.

There are a lot of options for creating a shower, but basically, to facilitate your tasks, a ready-made shower tray is purchased. Such pallets are installed in the room, and the cabin is made from available materials.

Ceramic tile

Tile good material for a homemade shower cabin, it meets all the requirements of operation. Tiles are available in many colors and sizes.

To create a shower from ceramic tiles, you can use a pallet, or when laying out the tiles, make a slope right in the floor.

PVC panels

PVC panels are used for finishing inside the shower cabin. The material is quite unpretentious and has good operational properties, however, such material is short-lived.

Polycarbonate

This material has many color solutions, is affordable and durable. The interior looks quite interesting.

Polycarbonate is installed on metal corner and you should go through the joints with sealants. In operation has proven itself well, with proper care.

If the finished pallets do not fit in size, or simply do not suit you, you can make the pallet yourself.

There are several ways to make a pallet. The simplest is a pallet made of bricks. If this method is chosen, then it is imperative to lay roofing material as a waterproofing. You can use concrete to create a pallet, but this method is longer.

To make showering comfortable, initial stage communication needs to be done. If not central water supply, then for these purposes a well with an electric pump is suitable, which will supply cold water when opening a faucet.

And for hot water, you can hang a water heater, to which you also need to supply cold water. A do-it-yourself shower with cold and hot water is the pride of the owner of the house. And it is a pleasure to take hygiene procedures in such a shower.

Whatever building and finishing material is chosen, as well as a shower tray, the main thing is the presence of a drain made at an angle. Also Special attention it is necessary to give waterproofing of the floor and walls in the shower room.

If the inner surface of the walls and floor in the shower will be tiled, you should start tiling stepping back from the floor in two rows and install supports. After all the tiles have been laid out, grout should be used.

Photo of the shower cabin in the bathroom

To equip a comfortable shower, you can completely abandon the factory pallet. you can arrange everything with your own hands in such a way that the water will immediately flow into the drain along an inclined ceramic surface, and a reliable waterproofing system will protect the floors in the bathroom. By refusing the standard pallet, you only win. This is very convenient if the bathroom has small size. In old houses, as you know, bathrooms have very modest dimensions, and in order to accommodate all the required plumbing, you can make a shower tray from tiles, bricks or concrete of the size and shape you need.

pros

Without a factory pallet, you will have more free space in the bathroom that can be put to good use; people with disabilities will not have to step on a slippery surface, overcoming a high side. Finally, this choice will save you money. But before you make a tile shower tray, you need to familiarize yourself with the design of the building.

In order to properly form the drain system, the sloping floor surface and lay waterproofing layer, there must be a certain headroom in stock (at least 150 mm).

If this condition is not met, in the shower room it is necessary to make the floor level higher compared to the rest of the rooms.

by the most simple option there will be a shower without a factory pallet on the ground floor (in the case of a private house), in the place where the soil itself acts as the basis of the floor, and not the cellar or basement. In the apartment high-rise building you can also not use a regular shower tray, only in this case it is necessary to build an additional podium to hide the waterproofing layer. By the way, the installation of shower doors can be carried out directly on this podium.

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Manufacturing

Before starting work on the construction of a shower tray, it is necessary to carefully prepare the place intended for this design. Very important point is the arrangement quality system waterproofing those surfaces to which the shower tray will adjoin.

First of all, you need to build an alternative to the factory standard shower tray - a concrete and brick shower tray, and only then do it with ceramic tiles. you can make your own shower tray, which will fit well into the interior of the bathroom and will cost you much less.

For construction you will need the following tools and materials:

1. cement mortar.
2. Brick.
3. Sand.
4. Stucco beacon.
5. Waterproofing mix.
6. Self leveling mortar.
7. Metal mesh.
8. Drill with mixing attachment.
9. Trowel.
10. Roulette.
11. Paint brush.
12. Putty knife.
13. Drain for shower tray.

Having all the necessary tools and materials at hand, you can start installing a tile pallet.

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Installation steps

First of all, it is required proper preparation bases of the structure. Experts recommend making a shower tray from tiles up to final finishing floor and wall surfaces. In those places where the structure will be in contact with the wall, a waterproofing mixture must be applied to the latter in order to avoid the appearance of fungus in the future. The waterproofing layer with a brush must be applied in a thin layer, first under the screed, then on the screed and then just before the start of the cladding.

Start laying tiles from the corner.

If you want the floor in the shower stall not to be cold, then you can install electrical system"warm floor" under the finishing screed. The system must be laid both in the pallet itself and around it.

When the first waterproofing layer is completely dry, you can begin to form a brick shower tray rim. For this purpose, both ordinary brick and silicate brick are quite suitable. Bricklaying is carried out on a cement-sand mixture (you can replace it with another special mortar bought in a store building materials). To make the shower as safe as possible, round off the sharp corner of the shower tray. A metal mesh is laid over the base for greater strength of the base.

Then decide on the place of the drain and install the system to drain the water. Keep in mind that the drain system must be of high quality, since once the shower tray is completed, it will not be possible to change it.

When the water drainage system is installed, proceed with the installation of construction beacons and fill in the rough screed. For this you can use cement-sand mixture, in which crushed stone is added.

Since the pouring surface is small, use a metal spatula or trowel to level it. Compact the mixture by plunging the trowel into the mixture with precise movements.

Wait when rough screed completely dry, and apply the next waterproofing layer to the surface. This is necessary so that water does not seep deep into the concrete or onto the floor. Remember that high-quality waterproofing will prevent the development of fungus not only in the bathroom, but also in adjacent rooms.

The next step is to apply a self-leveling mortar to a completely dry surface. Make a smooth funnel-shaped recess in the drain area - this will allow water to drain without obstacles. When choosing a drain for water, give preference to metal, as they are characterized by the best quality.

After the self-levelling mortar has completely dried, coat the surface again with a waterproofing mixture. Perform this layer especially carefully, smearing the areas where the wall and floor surfaces fit.

Greetings. In this article I will talk about how to assemble a shower tray with your own hands. Of course, a ready-made pallet can be bought at a plumbing store and installed in accordance with the accompanying instructions. But, sometimes it happens that the shower room has custom sizes, and the finished pallet with typical dimensions does not fit there.

The solution is obvious - you need to make the pallet yourself, from start to finish. See the article below for how to make this work.

The main stages of the construction of the pallet

What qualities should a finished shower tray have? Assembled structure must be durable, resistant to long-term exposure to moisture, and not cold. By the way, the price of the finished result should not be higher than the cost of purchased plumbing.

Taking into account the above requirements, the following types of work were performed during the arrangement of the shower room:

• Screed height calculation regarding the location of the drain pipe and the ladder;
• bowl device, including the laying of a heat-insulating layer and the installation of a reinforced screed;
• Facing works, including waterproofing the surface and laying the facing material.

I bring to your attention a detailed photo report and a description of how to make a shower tray.

Taking measurements and calculating height

At this stage, you will need the following materials and tools:

• Laser level;
• Square;
• Roulette and pencil;
• Drainage drain with side outlet;
• A glass for the installation of a ladder.

The construction of the shower trays will be carried out in a small room, which was separated from the toilet by a partition wall. The partition was dismantled and the premises were combined, but the base of the floor, as can be seen in the photo, remained separated by a strobe. In addition, a sewer pipe was connected to the shower room through a strobe in the wall.

The task at this stage is the following: regarding the location sewer pipe, decide on the height of the future pallet.

This is done in the following way:

• IN opposite corner a laser level is installed from the sewer pipe to a stable surface;

• By level, we set a preliminary mark in the center of the pipe;
• We expose the ladder in such a way that its upper part (pancake) is slightly above the level;

• We transfer the level to the surface of the pancake;
• Considering that a glass with a thickness of the upper border of 10 mm will be installed on top of the ladder, we measure from the mark made, 1 cm upwards and set the mark at which the upper point of the drain hole will be located;

• From the mark made, we measure another 15 mm upwards and set the mark on which the outer perimeter of the bowl will be located;

A difference of 10-15 mm is the slope that is required for the normal flow of water to the ladder.

• We set the level according to the mark made and get the perimeter of the upper point of the screed.

Screed device

So, we measured the distance from the intended level of the screed surface to the floor and got 22 cm - this is the thickness of the cake. What materials can be used to raise the level to such a height?

It is difficult, long and unprofitable to make a screed in one layer to the specified thickness. The best operational results will be achieved by laying several different materials.

For example, a layer of expanded clay concrete can be made along the bottom. On top of this layer, it will be possible to lay a heat-insulating layer of extruded polystyrene foam. by the most top layer it will be possible to lay an ordinary cement screed with a thickness of not more than 5 cm.

The location and thickness of the layers will be as follows:

• Cement screed - 5 cm;
• Extruded polystyrene layer - 5 cm;
• Expanded clay base - 12 cm.

The advantage of this solution is that the pallet will not be as cold as it would be if it were laid entirely of concrete. Plus, you can get the job done faster.

If the location of the pipeline allows, it is possible to arrange a warm floor in the thickness of the pallet. To do this, a tie-in is made in a nearby supply heating pipe and a loop is led to the shower room, where it is zipped into the screed.

The following materials and tools are required for the screed device:

• Cement-sand mixture, prepared at the rate of: 1 part of cement to 2 parts of seeded sand;
• Expanded clay concrete from a water-mixed cement-sand mixture with expanded clay in the proportions: 1 part DSP to 2 parts expanded clay;
• Extruded polystyrene boards;
• High density polyurethane foam;
• Reinforcing glass mesh;
• Reinforcing welded metal mesh;
• Agrofabric for strengthening joints in thermal insulation;
• Plastering tool (rules, spatulas, trowel, etc.).

Instructions for making a do-it-yourself bowl pie are as follows:

• In place of the dismantled partition, we install the formwork (for example, you can use a piece of drywall to assemble it);
• Along the perimeter of the shower room, we lay out a damper tape made of corrugated cardboard;

The presence of a damper tape is explained by the fact that the base was laid on a polyethylene foam insulation. The gap between the screed and the wall will eliminate the formation of cracks.

• We prime the base surface with Betonokontakt or similar film-forming compounds to ensure better adhesion;

• After the soil has completely dried, in accordance with the previously calculated dimensions, we lay a layer of expanded clay concrete;

• We smooth the surface of expanded clay concrete by adding a small amount of pure cement-sand mortar;
• After a day, the formwork can be removed in order to proceed with subsequent work;

• On a dried surface, we mark the location of the glass for installing the drain, immediately trying on;

Trying on mosaic or other materials that you will use to finish the pallet bowl should be relative to the ladder and walls. As a result, the drain can be positioned so that Decoration Materials I had to cut as little as possible.

• According to the markup, we lay sheets of extruded polystyrene foam, fastening them together mounting adhesive, for example, liquid nails;

As you can see in the photo, a cutout was provided under the ladder and under its connection to the sewer. In order to reach a level of 5 cm from the laid base, the expanded polystyrene was laid in two layers. Also, a strip of insulation boards was laid out along the perimeter of the structure.

• We connect the ladder to the drain;

• Filling gaps between tiles mounting foam, on top of which we lay strips of agrofiber;
• In the opening, from a strip of drywall, we lay out the formwork to the height of the pallet;
• We cut the insulation around the entire perimeter according to the level to which it was supposed to reach the last layer - a cement screed;
• We strengthen the installed ladder with a cement-sand mortar with a reinforcing fiberglass mesh (the dimensions of the sides of the cell are 15 × 15 mm);

• On top of the thermal insulation we lay a welded metal mesh with a rod thickness of 1.5 mm;

• We throw a uniform layer of cement-sand mortar on the laid grid;

• With a semi-dry mixture, we bring the horizontal screed to the level of the surface of the ladder;

• After a day, you can remove the formwork from the pallet and walk along the edge of the surface wide spatula to remove irregularities;

This work must be done no later than a day after laying the screed, otherwise the defects in the applied solution will harden and they will have to be knocked down.

• Covering the cement surface plastic wrap and leave for a week, until completely dry;

• While the screed was drying, the adjacent wall surfaces were tiled.

Waterproofing device and bowl finishing

At this stage we will need:

• tile adhesive;
• Coating waterproofing;
• Silicone sealant;
• Mosaic;
• Seam grout;
• Spatula for applying tile adhesive and for applying grout.

Instructions for applying waterproofing and finishing facing next:

• We tile the threshold of the pallet with tiles so that the upper edge of the tile goes to the level of the upper marks, which were marked from the very beginning along the perimeter of the wall;

Waterproofing at the joints is easier to apply with a brush, and flat surface- roller

• We process the surface of the screed coated waterproofing, and at the junction of the base and walls we glue a strip of non-woven waterproofing;
• We treat the junction of the screed and the drain with coating waterproofing;
• After the waterproofing layer has completely dried, we spread a reinforcing fiberglass mesh on the surface of the base and cut a hole in it for the neck of the ladder;

• We prepare a solution of high-quality moisture-resistant tile adhesive and coat the laid mesh with it, leveling the layer with a spatula so that the surface along the perimeter of the walls is 2-3 mm higher than that of the ladder;
• We insert a frame into the neck of the ladder, aligning it with the walls;

• Lubricate the perimeter of the frame tile adhesive so that there are no docking gaps;
• After the reinforcing layer dries, we line the surface of the bowl and try on the mosaic;

• After fitting, we dilute the tile adhesive and lay the mosaic in accordance with the previously performed fitting;
• We apply grout on top of the laid mosaic;

Please note that the floor in the shower room is not as sterile as we would like. After a short period of use, the grout in the joints will be dirty and it will be very difficult to clean it. Therefore, I recommend using not white grout, but dirty white or gray.

• We lay the tiles on the upper and inner sides of the sides of the pallet;

• We glue the perimeter of the mosaic with masking tape and apply silicone into the gap under the wall;

The use of sealant is explained by the presence of a movable seam along the perimeter, since the pallet is arranged on a layer of thermal insulation. It is impossible to use ordinary tile adhesive for these purposes, as it would crack. The gap filled with sealant will act as an expansion joint.

At the end of the facing work, we lay out a row of tiles at the junction of the walls to the floor.

Of course, there are other equally effective ways devices of similar designs, for example, you can make a pallet of tiles. But I showed you what has been done ordinary person, which means that you, if desired, can arrange a similar shower cabin at home.

Conclusion

So, you have read the instructions self-built shower tray. If you have any questions about the proposed instructions, write about it in your comments. In addition, I suggest watching the video in this article - I'm sure it will be interesting to you.

Unfortunately for acceptance hot bath we are constantly running out of time. The rhythm of life is so great that it is not possible to devote an hour of your time to the bathroom almost every day. Think about it, how many times have you enjoyed hot foam in the last six months? Probably once or twice at the most.

And the rest of the time you just climb into the bath under an impromptu shower and vary between narrow and smooth walls of the container. So, isn't it better to save yourself from such torment and install a shower cabin?

Modern shower cabin

Today, plumbing manufacturers offer a lot of options both in price and design. You can purchase simple shower cabins, consisting of a tray, doors, the walls are the walls of the bathroom.

Or more complex structures- shower boxes. They are a limited and completely isolated space, consisting of a pallet of various sizes, doors, walls or additional features hydromassage type or .

However, not all of us can afford such large-scale shower cabins, both in terms of size and price. Therefore, our craftsmen offer you to make a tray for a simple shower cabin yourself.

The issue is especially relevant for small Khrushchev apartments, where the bathroom does not allow you to place not only a bath, even just an acrylic tray.

shower box

Choice

Of course you can go simple way and during the renovation of the bathroom, wall up the finished pallet into the floor. However, remember, an enameled pallet will slip, while an acrylic one is easily scratched, fragile, and may eventually lose its color.

Buying a pallet made of ceramics or marble will not justify itself, because we want to save money, but this will not work with such materials.

Steel pallets will also not be a joy for you: today they are made of thin steel, it makes noise, and the enamel on the surface quickly cracks.

Therefore more practical solution there will be a brick pallet production and its tiling.

The advantages of a do-it-yourself pallet:

As you can see, making a pallet with your own hands is your chance to show your plumbing and design skills. Not to mention the fact that this is a chance to save money and save the family budget.

What do we do?

In order to properly direct your forces, you must imagine what you have to do.

So, the design of a homemade pallet consists of concrete base(or brick), tiled, there is an outer wall so that water does not fall on the bathroom floor.

Inside the structure there should be a ladder to drain water into the sewer.

The concrete/brick base must be treated with a cement-based waterproofing material and only then can you proceed with the tiling.

Tools and materials

During the work you will need:

• cement;
• sand;
• brick;
• metal grid;
• waterproofing materials (liquid);
• drill;
• trowel;
• brush;
• building level;
• roulette;
• plastic drain for the pallet;
• putty knife;
• leveling mix.

Basically, these are all the materials that should come in handy during work.

Do-it-yourself tile shower tray.

For lining the shower tray, you will need the following materials:

• floor ceramic tiles or mosaic;
• the mixture for laying tiles must be waterproof;
• notched spatula;
• crosses for the formation of seams;
• grout, waterproof;
• level or tape measure;
• device for cutting tiles or grinder;
• rubber spatula.

All of the above tools will be needed for last step pallet finishes.

Work progress

In order to finally make a high-quality, reliable, attractive and, most importantly, durable pallet, follow our instructions.

Step 1: Preparing the Surface for the Pallet

The first step must be carried out on the early stage bathroom renovation. Try to do it before finishing the walls and floor.

So, clean the floor, sweep it. Treat the area where the pallet will be, that is, the floor and walls with waterproofing material. Experts recommend using bituminous mastic.

Carefully process all junctions of the shower tray with walls and floors.

Protects surfaces from mold and moisture. At the stage after the waterproofing material has dried, a floor heating system is usually laid.

Waterproofing will protect surfaces from mold and moisture.

Then bed on the treated area with a greenhouse film - this item is optional.

Step 2: laying the base

When the waterproofing layer is completely dry, proceed to the formation of the contour of the future pallet. Classic size for a pallet: 90x90 cm.

To do this, use a silicate or ordinary brick. Experts recommend purchasing red brick, as it is resistant to moisture.

For laying bricks, use cement mortar or any other bought in the store. Do not forget to lay a metal mesh on the base to strengthen the structure.

When installing the bottom of the tray, be careful: the water outlet must be a 30-degree angle, not a 900.

Now leave the pallet for three to four days.

Step 3: second part of pallet laying

After a few days have passed, cover the pan with waterproofing material again ( bituminous mastic). So, you will increase the moisture resistance of the future design.

Make the sides of the pallet a little higher by about one brick. Then make a cement screed both inside and outside the structure. Make a screed based on cement and sand with crushed stone impurities.

We make a screed

The bottom of the pallet must be made with a slope of 1–1.5 cm to drain hole. Use a spatula and trowel to level the surface.

To simplify the work, apply plaster beacons, but do not forget to remove them later.

When cement strainer dry, the entire surface of the pallet, both inside and out, is again treated with a waterproofing mixture. So, moisture will not get into the layers of the screed, and will not destroy the brick.

Step 4: align the design

When the surface of the pallet is completely dry, apply a leveling compound to it. Do not forget to make a smooth and light recess around so that the water flows freely into the sewer.

Almost the last preparation of the pallet: when the leveling layer is dry, apply again waterproofing material. Do not neglect such frequent use of the protective layer. So, you're protecting yourself and your downstairs neighbors who probably won't have yellow spots on the ceiling.

Step 5: finishing the outside of the pallet

Prepare adhesive composition according to the instructions on the package. Be careful: you may have to prepare the glue several times. There are mixtures that spoil quickly if left unused for several hours.

You need to lay the tiles from the far corner, which is visible at the entrance to the bathroom. Be sure to check with a consultant or read on the adhesive package what exactly you need to apply the adhesive: on the surface or on the tile.

Check each tile with a building level. For proper laying, the tiles are tapped with a rubber mallet.

When laying each subsequent tile, do not forget about the formation of seams with the help of crosses.

Step 6: Finishing the pallet with grout

After full styling tiles on a pallet, you need to protect all the seams. Why do you need grout and a rubber spatula. Choose not only a waterproof, but also an antibacterial mixture.

Fill all seams with a special waterproof mixture, remove the remains with a clean cloth. To make the seams the same and uniform, go over them with the reverse handle of a rubber spatula.

Step 7: finish

Wash the entire pallet with a wet cloth, thereby removing any remaining adhesive or grout from the surface of the cladding.

When the grout is completely dry, the tile must be washed again and wiped dry.

The shower tray is ready, in a few days you can use it.

Ready shower.

Remember, instead of tiles, you can use mosaics. Today it is sold in whole sheets, which are placed on the adhesive composition. In the same way, apply glue with a spatula to the mosaic sheet and apply it to the surface of the pallet.

After laying the mosaic, also seal the seams, only in this case, remove the residues immediately, because then it is almost impossible to remove them. After drying, also wash the lining and wipe dry.

You just have to take metal cover with drain, install glass doors and taps. After three days, your shower is ready to use.

To make a pallet with your own hands, you will need two weeks, no more. But at the same time, how less funds you spend! Don't be afraid to experiment and you will succeed.