How to lay paving slabs - a complete guide. Laying paving slabs with your own hands

It is impossible to imagine the infrastructure of the city without pavement. Until recently, asphalt was considered the most common surface. But from temperature changes it cracks, from exposure sun rays melts. With the advent of new technologies, paving of squares, pavements, roads with paving slabs has become popular.

Not a single cottage household plot can not do without pavement paths, parking for cars is laid out with it. Submit pavement It's not that hard on your own in the country. The main thing is to know the rules of laying, the technology of its installation. Today we will tell you how to lay paving slabs.

Before describing the installation technology of the sidewalk, let's dwell on the advantage of paving stones.

The paving slab has a number of advantages:


Sidewalk Disadvantages

  • During frosts it is covered with a layer of ice.
  • With improper installation, the possibility of its subsidence.

Types of paving stones

According to the manufacturing method

Depending on the methods of making paving stones the following varieties are found:

  • vibrocasting
  • Vibropressed
  • Granite

Let us dwell on the characteristics of each separately.

Clay more expensive, resembles tiles.

It is strong due to the addition of granite chips or other binder material to it.

Before starting the process of laying paving stones, we will check its quality for any chips or cracks. Lay it on the mixture tightly to each other.

With a rubber mallet, we knock on the paving stones, achieving it better connection. You need to lay the tiles yourself.


To saw off paving slabs, use an angle grinder, you can grinder with a power of at least 2 kW.

Having laid out the sidewalk, we fall asleep on top of the cement-sand mortar.

Let's fill it with water.

Now we put the border. Roem grooves for the curb. They should be slightly wider than the curbstone itself. The curb is placed in order to keep the paving stones on soft ground, to prevent it from getting off it. Besides, curbstone equalizes the edge of the laid tile. It can be laid both before laying paving stones, and after.

The border should be flush with the tiles, maybe a little higher. First, we put a 5 cm sand pillow, wet the sand, compact it. Pour to the bottom of the groove concrete mortar and put the curb stone very quickly, until the mortar has hardened. The gaps between the laid tiles and the curb are filled with mortar.

How to lay paving slabs on a concrete base

Concrete serves as a stronger base for paving stones. A huge amount of heavy equipment can pass through it. From this, she will not sag, will not crack.

Cement-sand cushion is a movable base, and concrete is a solid base. Therefore, it is much better to trim paving stones on a concrete base. It does not need to be tamped down, like parts of pillows.

The concrete screed hardens, forming a flat base. But concrete blocks the way for water, preventing it from seeping into the ground.

The sand and gravel cushion passes water down through the pores. The soil absorbs it.


Concrete screed does not let rain water through. It accumulates in the seams between the tiles. When frost hits, the water under the paving stones and between the seams turns into ice. The ice block with all its force presses on the coating, lifting it. The pavement may develop cracks along the edges. Therefore, before pouring concrete screed, do water disposal. You can create rulers, point moisture collectors or make a slope.

To correctly lay paving slabs on concrete base, you need to fill the screed.


We mark the site for concrete. We put the pegs and pull the threads at an angle of 5 degrees. We remove the sod with a depth of 25 cm. In the resulting groove, cleared of seeds and leaves of plants, we fill the crushed stone with a layer of 10-15 cm, making a slope. Ramming.

Through each square meter with a height of 15-20cm we make drainage holes for water runoff. After the concrete has hardened, we fill them with crushed stone (rubble passes water).


We lay the formwork from boards 40 mm thick. To strengthen it, we put pegs. For pouring the base, a concrete mixture is used: cement (1 part), sand (3 parts), crushed stone (1 part). A concrete mixture 3-5 cm thick is poured onto a crushed stone pillow.

When the concrete hardens, a reinforcing mesh is laid, and concrete 5-10 cm high is again poured on top. After 2-3 days, paving stones can be laid.

We will tell you how to properly lay paving slabs with your own hands on a concrete base.


We dig a groove for the curb. We take into account the slope of the paving. We mix the cement-sand mixture 1: 3. We put a layer of 3-5cm. We put a curbstone on it, driving it into the solution with a mallet. When the mixture dries, fill the cracks with sand, soak with water.

Before laying the paving stones, we fill in the cement-sand mixture 1: 6, level it with the rule, ram it with a vibrating plate. We pour a layer of 10 cm of the mixture, put beacons, level it with the rule. We lay the tiles, leaving a gap of 5 cm between them for expansion. Sprinkle cracks with sand and fine gravel, spill with water.

How to lay paving slabs on the blind area


From the house we measure the distance to the curb. We mark the paths with the help of pegs and a cord. We remove the soil to a depth along the height of the curb stone, adding 2-4 cm. Pouring concrete for the curb. We put it. Ramming.

We pour crushed stone under a slope. We put marking boards 3-6 meters thick 20-40mm. Above reinforced mesh. If the site is small, you can do without fittings and boards. Fill it up concrete mix. When it hardens, we make a dry cement-sand mixture 1: 6 and fill the base. We put tiles on it. We pour water from a watering can. We pour the same mixture on top and sweep it into the cracks. We pour water. Where water drains through the pipe, a concrete drain can be laid.

Laying of polymer paving slabs.

Plastic tiles are the same polymer. The rules for laying polymer tiles are the same as for laying conventional tiles. paving slabs.

Its styling features are:


How much does it cost to lay paving slabs and its price in the market


To lay paving slabs, the price of work is from 450 rubles per square meter. For the preparation of a concrete base - 750 rubles, a sand and gravel cushion - 570 rubles per square meter.

Today we told you and showed you a video on how to lay paving slabs. We will be glad to see a photo of your laid path or area in the country .


Sidewalk modules have gained popularity among the population of the country. Properly selected instructions and do-it-yourself laying of paving slabs will reduce the cost of landscaping adjoining territory and be proud of the builder's own achievements.

Tiled pavement pavement - affordable, inexpensive material to decorate the area around country house, driveways. Thanks to the options:

  • frost resistance;
  • practicality;
  • resistance to mechanical stress;
  • durability;
  • other.

On construction market presents a selection of tiles according to color scheme, texture, shape, size. picking up type of coverage in accordance with the general design of the site, create a single harmonious ensemble that will turn Vacation home and the courtyard around it into a complete picture.

The advantage of tiles is durability in summer heat, this material is not:

  • softens;
  • fade;
  • deformed;
  • releases harmful substances.

The sand between the joints allows rainwater to freely seep into the ground, leaving no puddles and creating comfort in the area.

How to choose paving modules

When considering a beautification project suburban area mark zones of different load:

  • car parking lot;
  • access part of the territory;
  • the area around the tile house;
  • footpaths;
  • recreation area.

Based on the estimate obtained, the thickness of the fragments, the amount of material for the sand and gravel cushion are selected. Color laying tiles harmonize or contrast with the background of the house. If it is difficult to determine the color, it is better to opt for light gray tones - this shade is considered universal.

The quality of the future tiles plays a special role. Therefore, it is better to purchase or order the coverage of the local area through the online market from manufacturers, at the bases building materials. Read testimonials from former clients, look at certificates, talk to neighbors and friends who have already encountered this problem.

  1. Do not save on the purchase of tiles, because this material serves long years and looks attractive - the areas that are lined with this tile are located in plain sight.
  2. Looks prettier and easier to install irregular shape- errors are not so noticeable. It is more difficult to lay square and rectangular fragments, here the deviation from geometric correctness is immediately evident!
  3. If tiles are selected different shades, you can spend time, but lay out patterns or drawings.
  4. Based on the draft, you should carefully calculate the number of tiles, the volume of sand, gravel or cement. You need to mark the area using a rope and pegs. Making such devices is simple and fast, so there will be no delays.
  5. During tiling, a gap of 2 mm remains between the two segments. If the tiles do not fit snugly against the fragments of buildings, file them with a “grinder” using a stone circle.

Installation instructions

Properly selected types of paving slabs - great addition design solutions site, emphasize the relief of the territory and the originality of the created landscape. In order for this beauty to please the eyes of owners and guests, you should remember some installation rules on your own and competent instructions will help with this.

Necessary materials and tools

  1. Depending on the use of the future site, tiles or concrete pad.
  2. When choosing a coating, you need to consider external design, operating parameters products. A car parking area is more durable than a footpath.
  3. Before starting work, you should carefully study the technical process, choose a tool that is convenient to use with your hands.
  4. Before buying tiles for the site, they draw up a project for the location of sites and paths for the correct calculation of the amount of material.
  5. During the installation of the tiles, a slope is made for the unhindered flow of water from the paths to the lawn. The slope is 5mm per 1m.


Laying process

When laying tiles by hand, do not miss important points and make it right. First step preparation of the base or cushion is considered. From the degree of quality preparatory work the beauty of the future site and the duration of the operation of the tile directly depend.

We select excess soil from those areas where the tiles are laid with our own hands. If work on laying engineering networks is planned in these areas, lay pipes in advance. Crushed stone and gravel are chosen in small or medium fractions. If stacked footpath, the pillow is made up to 15 cm deep. For parking - deepen the base to 20cm. These dimensions will be obtained after careful compaction of the poured material. Next, we prepare a pillow of sand with our own hands, laid on a layer of gravel.

Step-by-step video of preparing the base for paving slabs:

However, there are situations when the soil on the site is complex, there are many irregularities and so on. Instructions on how to fix this moment are presented below.

After sealing the first layer cover the area with geotextile so that in the future the sand does not mix with rubble. Then the sand is compacted: a thick layer is not made here, 5 cm is enough. Check the horizontalness of the sites using the building level. Identified inaccuracies are additionally sprinkled with sand and again compacted.

If the soil in the work area is characterized as weak, the geotextile is laid in 2 layers: before and after the gravel. This once again enhances the strength of the base.

The base is ready, now it remains to prepare the mixture on which the tile will lie. This mixture is prepared in the ratio: 1 part cement and 5 parts sand. Spread the composition on top the last pillow with a layer of 5 cm and compact.


Now proceed to, during which follows constantly check the levelness of the site with a building level.

Video: laying paving slabs with your own hands

The process of laying the tiles is completed, now it remains to cover the surface of the laid coating with fine sand and wipe it along the joints between the modules.

Paving slab repair

Care for such a coating: you can overcast, wash even using chemicals. If one or more tile fragments are damaged, it is easy to repair the coating:

Get the corrupted fragments;

Align the sand cushion;

Lay new tiles;

Fill the seams with new sand.

Conclusion

In conclusion, I want to show one video on how not to lay paving slabs:

In order for paving slabs to serve for a long time, do not work in wet weather, do not use other backfill other than sand, and do not hammer cement into the seams. After the laying work is completed, a trench is dug along the perimeter of the site, crushed stone is poured and a curb stone is installed. For strength, it is poured with cement. The construction of the curb will prevent the modules from spreading and loosening. A cushion made of a 2.5 cm mortar, under which there is a reinforced concrete base, will give the site special strength.

Consumption ecology. Homestead: There are several technologies for laying tiles. Possible - per layer cement mixture and over time, the entire surface of the surface turns into a monolith. But it also happens that the tile will need to be disassembled. Therefore, the best practical way- laying tiles on a sand base.

There are several technologies for laying tiles. It is possible - on a layer of cement mixture and over time the entire surface of the surface turns into a monolith. But it also happens that the tile will need to be disassembled. Therefore, the best, most practical way is laying tiles on a sand base.

To do this, you will need a trowel, metal or wooden stakes, a cord, a building level, rubber mallet, wooden mallet, hose, rake, broom, profiles, manual rammer, channel, sand, crushed stone fraction 10-20 (20-50) or gravel, cement 400 (500) or dry plaster mix, geotextiles, paving slabs 50-60 mm thick, for parking - 70-80 mm, curb stone.

First draw a blueprint. Based on it, calculate how much tiles, sand, crushed stone or gravel, cement you need.

Using a tape measure and pegs, cord or twine, mark the paths and areas for laying tiles. Check everything "in kind", going through the planned plan.

In order not to have to cut the tile later, it is necessary to make the length and width of the paving place a multiple of the dimensions of the purchased tile. It is better to avoid such cutting so that the coating is more durable.

Install the borders first. They may be slightly higher or flush with the track. Their main task is to keep the track from sprawling.

The main thing is to carefully perform the base under the tile. It is this that guarantees the quality and durability of the future track.

First, remove the old coating or, if it is not there, the sod to a depth of 15-20 cm. And no roots or seeds! It is necessary to plan the flow of water, drainage, especially in clay soil. In order for water to flow to the edges of the site, transverse or longitudinal slopes are made.

In any case, does the tile fit on liquid solution, dry mix or sand, a crushed stone or sand cushion is always used as a base.

First, we lay and compact crushed stone or gravel. Above - an intermediate layer of sand 3-5 cm thick. Geotextiles can be laid between crushed stone and sand to ensure free flow of water.

Ramming on a sunny day is done in a couple of hours, and in cloudy weather - the next day.

As the top layer of the base, you can use a ready-made dry mix or prepared by yourself. cement-sand mixture in a ratio of 1 to 3. Cover the mixture with a layer of 3-4 cm and level the surface with a rake. With a channel bar, make the final leveling of the surface.

Attention! Tiles should be laid away from you. Each subsequent tile should adjoin the previous one as firmly as possible. A gap of 1-2 mm is enough to fill with dry mix or sand. We tamp the laid tile wooden mallet. If the tile sags, put sand under it with a trowel and level it with a rammer. At the end of laying, we level the protrusions with a rubber mallet.

And one more piece of advice. Sand for a mixture with impurities of any salts cannot be used, especially when laying colored tiles: due to impurities, ugly white stains may appear on the track in the future.

Having laid the tiles, we check the site again. Having eliminated the protrusions and irregularities, we sprinkle all the seams with a dry cement-sand mixture, sweep away the excess and moisten the mixture in the gaps from a hose with a sprayer.

Paving slabs require maintenance. It must be cleaned regularly, washed from time to time. And in winter, you can’t use a metal tool to clean the path from snow so that the surface of the tile is not. Do not tear the tile with varnishes, paints and other chemicals. published

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This article discusses the principles of installation of curly paving elements (FEM), which will avoid errors and cost overruns.

The choice of curly paving elements

The industry produces FEM different sizes, shapes, colors, produced using different technologies. Before laying the tiles, it is necessary to select and buy them in sufficient quantities, taking into account the cutting waste.

Manufacturing methods

Figured paving elements are made in several ways:


Color, shape and size

When buying a FEM, you should take into account some of the nuances of laying and operating paving zones:


Preparatory work

Before laying tiles in a parking lot or walkway, it is necessary to replace the arable layer with non-metallic material, provide slopes for gravity removal of drains, lay stormwater trays and storm water inlets, and mount curbs.

FEM is laid on granotsev, gartsovka or sand, adhesion with the base is completely absent. Therefore, before starting work, a rigid spatial box should be made from curbs or storm trays so that the tiles do not slide around the perimeter.

Breakdown of paving zones

The main tasks at this stage of landscaping are:


Important! The breakdown is made with cords / strings on pegs or cast-offs. For gravity removal of drains, a slope of 2 - 4 degrees on paths and recreation areas, 4 - 7 degrees on the blind areas is sufficient.

After marking with cords, the fertile soil layer is completely removed from the surface of the paving zones. After the organics inside it rot, the soil will inevitably sag, the FEM plane will be broken, and the coating will have to be repaired. When making a pit, you should consider:


Thus, for storm water and curbs along the perimeter of the parking lot or path, you will have to further deepen the trench by 10 - 15 cm.

Underlayment

For building underground structures, non-metallic materials are traditionally used as the underlying layer:


Soils are partially replaced by non-metallic materials, therefore, during the operation of paving zones, mutual mixing of sand / crushed stone with the adjacent soil occurs. There is a loss of bearing capacity, repair is required. To eliminate this process, geotextiles or dornite are laid under the underlying layer - an overlap of 10 cm, with an approach to vertical walls excavation.

Important! Every 10 - 15 cm layer of sand in the underlying layer must be moistened before laying and compacted with a vibrating plate. Crushed stone does not need to be wetted, tamping is required.

Paving technology

The main nuances when laying paving slabs with your own hands on the site are:

  • installation of a spatial box - stormwater trays and curbs around the perimeter;
  • contact layer - washed sand, granotsev or gartsovka (a mixture of cement and sand in a ratio of 1: 6);
  • leveling by beacons - backfilling the contact layer between the beacons and pulling with a rule;
  • laying tiles - in front of you in the direction of travel;
  • sealing and decorating joints - tamping with an areal vibrator and backfilling between sand tiles.

The main difficulties arise with layout schemes, facing steps and stairs, and trimming tiles.

Curbs and storm drain

Without rigid vertical elements along the perimeter of the paving area, paving slabs will inevitably begin to creep and lose their shape. Therefore, trays and curbs are deepened and mounted on the solution:

  • laying the bed - the solution is leveled with a trowel;
  • installation of a curb - the upper edge along a stretched cord;
  • fixing the vertical level - a solution is applied to the side faces of the curb on both sides.

On straight sections, the curb is mounted close to each other; on turns, the concrete elements touch at one corner.

At the same stage, storm water inlets and storm trays are mounted:

  • the storm water inlet receives water from the riser roof drain, so it is mounted directly below it;
  • trays completely replace curbs, so there is no need to duplicate them;
  • there are trays with decorative lattices on which you can walk.

Storm drain inside the paving area.

Advice! It is forbidden to drain storm drains into the septic tank of the water treatment system of a country house in order to avoid overflowing it. Water is collected in a separate underground reservoir, then pumped out for reuse, such as irrigation.

Stairs and steps

FEM elements complete with curbs make it possible to manufacture stairs and individual steps on difficult terrain and when terracing a site:


Advice! Similar to sidewalks, it is better to adjust the width of the steps to the size of the tiles in order to avoid undercutting.

Solid tile and undercut

To put paving stones on their own without errors, you must perform the following sequence of operations:

  • distribute the material of the contact layer over the base at a horizontal level, taking into account the thickness of the tile;
  • lay solid paving stones close to each other, according to the layout scheme;
  • cut the tiles to the size of the remaining unfilled areas at the junction with curbs, trays, storm water inlets, walls, wells;
  • lay the pieces and fill the seams with sand.

The mixture of the contact layer is distributed over the beacons in two ways:


The second method is also used in the manufacture of dry screeds, the manufacturer produces kits that include a special rule and beacon rails. These kits are ideal for paving with FEM elements and do not increase the cost much. square meter coatings.

Paving stones are laid from an arbitrary edge (usually from the bottom point) in front of you. The surface can be walked on immediately, which is very convenient for increasing productivity and reducing labor costs. Exist :


At intersections, any junction options are allowed with trimming and using FEM of a suitable format from other collections.

Seam backfilling and tamping

On finishing stage paving slabs must follow the rules:


When laying on a carving or buying FEM, inside of which the hydration process has not been completed, it may be necessary to remove cement, white and other stains. It is better to do it right away, to process the surface of the paving zone special formulations that increase water, wear and frost resistance of the coating.

Thus, at each stage of paving paths and parking lots with paving slabs, several factors must be taken into account at once. However, the technology is available for independent implementation, but only if there is a vibrating plate that can be rented.

Advice! If you need repairmen, there is a very convenient service for their selection. Just send in the form below detailed description work that needs to be done and offers with prices from construction teams and firms will come to your mail. You can see reviews of each of them and photos with examples of work. It's FREE and there's no obligation.

11.07.2016

Pavement tiles are very good material for the production of paths for the garden and pedestrian areas. Now this material is produced in large quantities. And therefore, there is no lack of it. But in order to properly make a garden path out of it, you need to know the technology of laying tiles for sidewalks. In this post, I will talk about it in detail.

Very often, paving slabs are rectangular in shape. Thanks to this shape, you can lay tiles on different schemes. Very often, a Christmas tree, a column and brickwork. Along with this, everything classic views laying such tiles does not cause great difficulties. But, professional laying of pavement tiles requires special skills, and therefore if you need to make paths for pedestrians using this material, then you need to use the services of craftsmen.

Proper laying of pavement tiles is a guarantee of the durability of the garden path. The laying of this material begins with the production of the base. For this, soil is taken in place of the track and a pillow is made in its place. The ditch for the garden path is dug out of pavement tiles to a depth of 15 cm. At the same time, the bottom of the ditch must be well tamped.

When the bottom is rammed, it is necessary to pour sand into the ditch. When compacted, its layer should be 5 cm. For good compaction of sand, it is necessary to use a vibrating plate.

To avoid deformation and increase the durability of the garden path, a non-woven fabric can be placed on the bottom of the ditch before the sand cushion is made into it. This material will eliminate the destruction of the track in slightly heaving soils.

A crushed stone layer must be poured onto a pillow of sand. He will be able to help properly drain the water from the pavement tiles and at the same time, will become a reliable foundation for the entire path. The crushed stone fraction should be small (5-20 mm), and the layer thickness should not exceed 20 cm. You can do without crushed stone. But in order for your path to go without repair for a very long time, the presence of a crushed stone layer is mandatory. Also, you can’t do without it where the garden path is laid in heaving soil.

Moistened sand is placed on the crushed stone layer. It also needs to be rammed and put on top of a mesh of reinforcement (50 × 50) and pour a cement-sand layer 3-4 cm thick. The mixture for laying tiles is prepared at the rate of 1 part of cement and 3 parts of sand. For this, cement grade M150 is suitable.

Lay the tiles according to a well-thought-out scheme. To do this, you need to use a rubber mallet. When laying tiles, it is necessary to ensure that the gaps between the paving stones are minimal. For proper drainage, it is necessary to make a small slope from the center to the edges of the track.

When the tile is laid, you need to wake up on top sand-cement mixture and using a broom to fall asleep with its help, the connection between the tiles. After that, the track can be spilled from above with water and when the mixture sets, use the track for its intended purpose.

When laying tiles for sidewalks, it is often necessary to use halves of the material. To make them perfect, you need to file them with an angle grinder and break them along the cut line.

Related video:

PART 1: DIY garden path (paving slabs) | PART 1: Handmade garden walkway

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