Do-it-yourself inertial mallet. Eternal mallet by Igor Bazakin DIY wooden mallet what you need

If you need a wooden mallet but only have a basic set of tools, this article is for you. All you need is a saw, a clamp, some wood glue and sandpaper. If you have a miter saw, drill and router, that's great, as they can come in handy when finishing, but this is not at all necessary. Ready? Then go ahead!


Wooden mallet: necessary materials

Hammers are usually made from hardwood, but you can use whatever you like. Wood in contrasting colors will look beautiful. We will use meranti and white oak.

Since our mallet will be made according to the “sandwich” principle, all wooden elements must be the same thickness. In our case, this is 20 mm, but both 25 and 30 mm will do if you like it better.

  • handle: 320×35 mm (and 20 mm thick) in oak;
  • striker: 500 × 70 × 20 mm;
  • keys (optional): 2 elements with a diameter of 9 mm and a length of 70 mm.

Wooden mallet: necessary tools

Necessarily:

  • saw;
  • pencil;
  • ruler;
  • clamps.

Optional:

  • a template in the form of a square or just a right angle;
  • Miter saw;
  • milling cutter;
  • drill.

Cut out the elements of the future mallet

We cut out the elements from the tree of the required size. Choose the width of the handle so that the future mallet is as convenient as possible for you (we will have 35 mm). The same applies to the length (we will have 320 mm). For the striker, we cut out two elements 140 mm wide and two elements 60 mm wide.

We connect the elements of the mallet to each other

Make sure all elements are smooth and flat surface at the points of contact. Lay one of the wide striker elements on a small piece of wood (this is to ensure that the clip does not leave marks on the face of the striker). All other parts of the mallet will be attached to this element.

Place the handle on it strictly in the center and at a right angle using a ruler. After you manage to find the right position, fix it with a clamp. Make marks with a pencil in case the clip comes off (but try not to let it happen).

Apply a thick layer of wood glue to the inner surface of the element on one side of the handle. Glue a short element of the striker to it, remembering to ensure that all corners are straight. The edge will stick out, but it's not scary - then we will cut it off. Fix this part properly with a clamp. Remove excess glue with a rag.

Now detach the handle, apply glue to it and stick it in place. You can make the handle stick out of the firing pin. We will make it so that it is flush. Make sure that all corners are straight and the handle is exactly in the middle.

Take the second short element of the striker and do the same with it as with the first. Make sure that the top and bottom of all elements are at the same level, and the handle fits snugly against them.

Let the glue dry, leaving the product for 24 hours. Check that the inner surface is smooth and even. If necessary, use sandpaper. Glue the second long element of the striker and fix it with a clamp. Remember to reuse a piece of unwanted wood so as not to damage the front surface.

Intermediate result

And so, we should get an unsightly mallet with protruding edges. Need to fix this!

Step you can skip

We will also drive dowels into the striker of our mallet. They do not perform any function other than decorative. When it comes to wood, glue provides a stronger connection than dowels, so they won't make the weather worse. But they look beautiful! Drill holes through the striker, apply glue to the dowels and cut them into the striker. After the glue dries, cut them flush.

And one more step you can skip

Often the handle sticks out on mallets, but we make it flush. Therefore, cut off the end of the handle sticking out from the other side of the striker.

We give the striker of the mallet the required angle

The angle of the striker should be such that its surface is approximately parallel to your hand when you hold the mallet in it. You can choose the angle that is convenient for you or just make 4 degrees, as in our article. You can use a miter saw, but a hand saw will do. The main thing is to make notes in advance and cut carefully. If you don't have a protractor, just go online and print out any goniometer, then use it as a stencil.

We bring the surface of the mallet to perfection

Sand the mallet with sandpaper. Enjoy the work you've done. If you have a router, you can create smooth curves on the handle at the grip. If you do not have a router, you can simply sand the edges. You can also make a rounding at the end of the handle. In general, give your product the desired look.


We process the surface

mix beeswax and mineral oil and process the product. Our homemade mallet is ready! Now you have a convenient and beautiful handmade tool. Rather, try it out at work!

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Wooden mallet.



12/11/2014. 8 cells

Subject: Making a mallet for carpentry.

Lesson Objectives:

- To acquaint students with the product mallet for carpentry.

- To consolidate skills in drawing up a work plan for products, reading a drawing, a technological map.

To develop cognitive interest, speech correction, through the implementation of a correctional task and practical work, vocabulary enrichment.

Cultivate independence, diligence and a culture of communication.

Lesson type : combined.

Equipment : notebook, textbook, workbench, marking tool, sandpaper, hacksaw, planer, drilling machine, flow charts.

Dictionary : mallet -This wooden hammer large sizes.

Drilling machine, chisel.

DURING THE CLASSES

1 . Organizing time .

1. Greeting.

2.Checking the readiness for the lesson and the organization of jobs

Installation for the lesson to activate mental activity.

(decipher the proverb)

Teacher: “Without labor there is no good »

2. Actualization of basic knowledge.

Front poll:

    What tools do you need to make a mallet?

    Why can a notch become clogged with chips when planing?

    Why does the quality of all work depend on markup?

3 . Learning new material.

Teacher: We will get acquainted with the carpentry tool - a mallet, and also consolidate the knowledge of drawing up a plan for practical work of the sequence of making a carpentry mallet.

corrective exercise.

Task: Determine the longest and shortest segment.

Summing up the completed task.

Teacher: Guys, what kind of wood should mallets be made from.

(made of hard, viscous wood)

The strength of the workpiece, and hence the product, depends on the age and type of wood, on the place of the cut and the conditions for obtaining and storing the material. Wood species can be easily identified if you know them characteristics. For example, the presence or absence of a kernel, growth rings, sapwood width, heart-shaped rays, color, smell, texture. For the wooden parts of the tools, any hard wood that grows in our area is suitable. But when choosing a workpiece, one must remember that the wood must be damp without cracks and knots. For processing hardwood, all the tools of a carpentry workshop are used.

And so the guys use dense, viscous hardwood to make a mallet.

Let's make a plan for making a mallet. Routing.

Plan:

1. Select materials for the head and handle.

2. Mark and cut blanks. The blank for the head is taken in length for 2-3 mallets at once, so that it is more convenient to plan.

3. Cut the blank for the head to size.

4. Make a handle.

5. Mark the head, drill a blind hole and clean it with a chisel.

6. Saw off the head from the workpiece and process the ends.

7. Fit the end of the handle to the hole in the head, make a cut, make a wedge.

8.Put the head on the handle.

9.Clean the mallet.

Equipment : hacksaw, planer, drilling machine, chisel, sandpaper, product template, technological map.

Fizminutka to strengthen the muscles of the eyes.

Starting position - sitting at the desk.

    Close eyes.-3 seconds.

    Shut your eyes tightly. - 5 second.

    Perform frequent blinking. - 5 seconds.

Repeat 5-6 times.

Work in a notebook.

Exercise.

    Record the date and topic of the lesson.

    Write down a work plan.

(Today we will replenish lexicon words, read aloud and write

4. Fixing:

1. How is the mallet head connected to the handle?

2. What is the length of the blank for the head of the mallet?

3. How do you make holes for the handle in a mallet?

Teacher: (Continued study of the topic)

Based on the consolidated and acquired knowledge, we proceed to practical work for making mallets

Briefing.

And before starting work, let's repeat the TB with the tool that you have to work with, that is, the TB with a hacksaw, the TB with a chisel, the TB with sandpaper, TB with a drilling machine, TB with a planer.

5 . Practical work.

Current teacher briefing.

Checking the quality of work.

self control .

Work analysis, analysis common mistakes and establishing their causes.

6. Summing up.

I think that today's lesson gave you the knowledge to make the main parts carpentry tools.

And if you, in later life, choose the profession of a carpenter, then this knowledge will be useful to you.

Evaluation of student work in class.

Mind cleaning.

Kiyanka - This is a large wooden mallet.

Drilling machine

Chisel

The product itself is a non-inertial mallet from Vladimir Zhukov. Assembled from hand-picked wood. Oak and plum (cherry). The whole process is in the photo. I needed a heavy mallet with a short handle.

First, a blank is glued from the blocks under the head of the mallet. Between the details are laid plates of bog oak (veneer). Gluing was carried out at the moment "carpenter".

After the glue dries and gives more rectangular shape, with a Forstner cutter, through holes connected to each other are selected.

We clean them to an oval shape and fill them with lead shot. It can be seen from below that another flat part is glued in (the exact same one will close the cavity on top)

The ends are also glued with plugs. The blank is first shaped roughly - with a planer, and then finished on a grinder.

The handle is exactly the same sandwich (in the part held by the hand) at the junction with the "head" it has rectangular section. For wedging, two cuts should be made; to prevent splitting, they end with holes.

The handle is put on glue, wedged and, after the final gluing, it is polished again, this time by hand.

Finishing - colorless AQUATEX balm oil coating

A real man's rattle has learned! Her weight was 827 gr. When struck, it does not bounce on impact and, with small dimensions, has a large weight.

According to the sensations during work, it's like slapping asphalt or wet clay with your palm.

In general, the thing turned out not only functional and comfortable, but also stylish.


At the first glance at this tool, its similarity with a hammer and even a sledgehammer familiar to us for a long time becomes obvious. Indeed, she is his variety, only her sphere of activity is different. The rubber mallet is aimed at works related to those materials that require more touching treatment.

rubber mallet photo

What is a mallet, types and types

So, the “relative” of the hammer proves its origin with all its appearance.

carpentry mallet photo

And rubber is distinguished by the fact that it is made from very hard woods, and another obligatory element will be the rubber component. Most often, such a tool will be made of white or black rubber.

  • How is a mallet usually used?

Most often, such a tool is used when working with a chisel and chisels. However, when performing carpentry work, it is quite possible to work together with other tools.

  • What are the types of such a "beater"?

Depending on what kind of work is to be done, the following types of tools are distinguished:

Locksmith's mallet, she's a locksmith's hammer

  1. joiner's mallet;
  • carpentry view

If grooving work is coming, then you can’t imagine anything better than such a tool. Take a hammer and chisel to help and start doing the job. It will be very good here to knock out exactly the incisors.

  • locksmith view

Turning mallet (turning hammer) photo

If there are classes related to editing metal, then it is best to use this particular type of mallet. Moreover, this mallet will differ in appearance from carpentry material. Outwardly, the metalwork "thresher" also differs from others of its kind - it looks like a rectangle that has a round handle.

  • turning view

According to its functional purpose, it will resemble the previous ones. However, the manufacture of such a tool will take place already on a lathe.

What is a rubber mallet used for?

Found a rubber mallet wide application in carpentry and plumbing. This is confirmed by all the activities that are carried out with its help. This includes stone and woodwork, and a variety of roofing, laying tiles on the sidewalk and even straightening automotive surfaces. It turns out that a mallet is needed wherever a more subtle approach is needed.

  • How is such a tool made?

Practical application of the tool

There are special requirements for its production. For example, the handle should be made from wood such as hornbeam or elm. That is, the rock must be viscous and heavy at the same time. This will make it especially comfortable to work with this type of instrument.

The hammer also has its own characteristics in manufacturing - here it is important that a handle is inserted into the cone-shaped hole in the very center of the striker (this is the only way to ensure that it does not break during operation).

  • Distinctive features of rubber products

As already noted, the working surface of the hammer can be made of black and white rubber. It's better to stop at light version- then during the work there will be no traces left. Usually the handle is also different here - it is made of a material that is not afraid of exposure to solvents. And working with such a tool for any person will be especially comfortable and convenient.

  • Advantages and disadvantages of such "beaters"

With all their undeniable advantages, such tools have a significant drawback - they are not very durable. This means that the material from constant use, it can quickly become unusable. Especially it concerns wooden models, however, if we are talking about rubber, then there can be only one way out - to use only the highest quality rubber for the manufacture of the head itself.

How to make a mallet with your own hands

By the way, it is quite possible to assemble such a tool yourself. To do this, just follow the following steps:

  1. Prepare a pen.
  2. Prepare material for the head.
  3. Collect layers.
  4. Fasten the puck.

More about everything

  • Making a handle

To make a handle, it would be best to turn the workpieces on a lathe - this will allow us to get a round section of the mold (and, therefore, a more comfortable use of this tool in its finished form). And in the middle of the handle itself, you can make a ledge so that our future head has a headdress. If this is not possible, it is worth wrapping a rope around the handle in several layers.

  • An important part is the breaker

Before you make the head itself, you need to prepare a layout. As for the source material, it is quite possible to replace rubber with leather. From it we will cut circles - it will take about 50 of these in order to assemble the “mallet” itself in finished form. If the skin is thin, then it is possible that there will be seventy such layers.

  • How to glue the layers?

In order for the prepared circles to be easily strung on the handle, it will be necessary to cut a hole of the appropriate diameter in them. Each such piece will need to be strung on the handle and fastened with the next PVA glue. When gluing the layers, you will need to try to press them as tightly as possible to each other. Have you strung all the prepared material? Now try to clamp it all in a vise until the glue dries completely.

  • Fix the result

So that in the future the head assembled by us does not fly off, it will be necessary to fix the washer on top of everything received. It does not matter what it will be - wooden or metal. The most important thing in this whole process is that the bolt is very secure. That's just pick it up will need to be such a size that it does not crack.

  • Additional mounts

If dimensions allow, you just need to intercept the protruding edges and secure the head with additional twine. Another option is to drive small carnations into the butt.

  • What are the advantages of a hand-made mallet?

That's all - it is quite possible to use a mallet in work. You will immediately appreciate all its advantages: it is silent and very practical. During operation, the head will not split into the smallest chips, and the process itself will occur as silently as possible, as if it were with a model made of some other material.

More on the topic:

Mallet. "Mallet". It would seem that it could be easier. A pen with a blank, prick. But no, there are many types of mallets. The most successful form is the "grenade". Knock with either end, not like a hammer. And people came up with a mallet not anyhow, but with goals:

Make the work of the cutter convenient and enjoyable

To exclude, if possible, occupational diseases of carvers associated with shock loading on the hands and wrists

Increase the service life of both mallets and chisels

For example, a beater can be wooden and beautiful:

But after a few months of work, all this beauty turns into something like this washcloth:

There are also mallets dressed in bronze - so that the blow is more powerful:

Good mallet! Wonderful! But is it necessary to show what the handles of chisels turn into? Only chisels reinforced with metal rings can withstand the blows of such a sledgehammer...

Or here, too, it would seem a good solution - a rubber head.

But .. it painfully bounces off the handle of the chisel upon impact ...

Mikhail Ilyaev works with Stepan Erzi's mallet, made of quebracho, the heaviest tree in Argentina:

Michael told a funny story. One mischievous neighbor, an old woman, began to complain about him "where necessary" for the constant knocking on the balcony. Mikhail was upset, began to look for compromises. Here is one of them. Rubber blotches from crutches went into action, put it on with a stretch on the handle and the swotting became more muffled:

It was even more detective! As Ilyaev says, it seems like God heard him: that malicious neighbor soon left home from his house, and a DEAF INTELLIGENT OLD WOMAN settled in her place, with whom Mikhail became friends. These are the wonders...

Ideal Solution

In preparing the article, a forum discussion was used:
http://forum.woodtools.ru/index.php/topic,317.0.html

When buying chisels, do not forget to pay attention to the issue of purchasing such a product as a rubber mallet. This tool causes the least damage to the chisels themselves, although it also has certain disadvantages. Let's figure out which ones, and whether there is an ideal version of the mallet.

Rubber mallet - both convenient and safe!

Even such a simple tool as a mallet has many different incarnations, of which the most popular are wooden and rubber products of the most different forms. The main purpose of the mallet is to be the "engine" of the chisels in the process of hewing parts. This happens as follows: in one hand, the master holds the chisel, attaching it to the point of the desired cut, and in the other hand he holds a mallet, which he hits on the end of the chisel handle, giving it the force necessary for chiseling. The lightness of the material avoids severe injuries to the hands and spares the tool itself.

In shape, there are two types of mallets - a mallet turned from a single piece of wood, resembling a pin or a small bat, and a mallet, which resembles a sledgehammer in shape, but is made entirely of wood. The advantage of the first one is in its convenience, because no matter what point of the mallet you hit, this will be correct, which significantly reduces the load on the brush. A mallet-hammer allows you to deliver stronger, concentrated blows, although you should be very confident in holding the tool in your hands and monitor the position of the head in relation to the chisel.

Therefore, the former are still more popular, although it will not work to make such a tool without a special workbench.

Lacks of materials - imperfect mallets!

Beaters have a significant drawback - since they are made from a blank with longitudinal fibers, with intensive use, the working part of such a mallet after some time resembles a real washcloth, no matter what kind of wood it is made from! The hammer sledgehammer has fewer such problems, however, as already noted, its shape is far from ideal. Taking these two forms as a basis, manufacturers bring to our attention improved, in their opinion, tools. For example, a “casing” made of bronze is put on a chiseled mallet.

To some extent, a really durable tool is obtained, but the chisels themselves cease to be such! After several visits, they will already have a shabby look, and not a mallet. Under such a tool, you need to buy special, reinforced chisels, which is not always affordable. In this case, it would seem that a rubber mallet would be an ideal option! Of course, it is not all made of rubber - most often, it is a fairly thick layer of material or rubber inserts on the edges of the hammer. Indeed, the blows are very gentle for the tools, but it is still inconvenient to work - the rubber tends to spring when struck.

It turns out that there is no perfect mallet? After all, it is necessary to combine qualities that are incompatible in our case:

  • convenience;
  • durability;
  • lack of cushioning upon impact;
  • optimal weight.

Manufacturers have not yet offered ideal option, but the masters themselves learned how to do it!

The ideal do-it-yourself mallet is not wood, not rubber ...

Leather! We forgot about her! On the one hand, the material is quite heavy, on the other hand, it does not spring, and on the third, it is very durable. What are the options for creating a mallet? If you have previously purchased a turning tool, then at least you can wrap in several layers working area to protect the mallet from further damage. To prevent the skin from flying off, you need to securely fasten it - glue one edge with carpentry glue to the wood at the beginning of winding, and lubricate the skin itself during the winding process.

In addition, if the dimensions of the material allow, intercept the protruding edges at the base of the bits with a worm clamp or, in extreme cases, make a winding of strong twine. From above, you can nail the protruding edges to the end of the mallet with small cloves or simply cut it off - if you glued the layers well, then this option will last a long time. However, it is much better to make a mallet completely out of leather, with the possible exception of the handle. This option will last forever! To do this, you will need a lot of leather, in the market you can look for trimmings from sellers, which they will gladly give, if not for nothing, then cheaply. You also need glue, a large washer, a drill and a fairly large bolt.

How to make a mallet with your own hands - a step by step diagram

Step 1: Cooking the Pen

It is best to take a hardwood for the handle, such as oak or beech. Birch or walnut is also suitable. If it is possible to grind it on a lathe, then do it to get a round shape that is comfortable for the hand. In addition, this way you can make a ledge in the middle of the handle so that there is a support for the skin layers. If lathe no, you can wind several layers of rope to stop.

Step 2: Prepare the Skin

You need to cut many round pieces of the same size from the leather. To get started, make one layout and mark under it on a piece of material right amount- depending on the size of the working part itself, you will need from 50 to 70 such circles. In addition, the thickness of the skin plays a role - the larger it is, the fewer layers will be needed.

Step 3: Stringing Layers

Make a hole in each layer so that you can string the skin onto the handle. We connect each layer with the subsequent PVA wood glue, we try to press the layers to each other as tightly as possible. When all layers are strung and smeared with glue, clamp the tool in a vice or clamps until the glue dries completely.

Step 4: Attach the washer

So that in the future the leather layers would not be able to fly off, a large washer - metal or wooden - should be fixed from the upper end of the handle. To do this, drill a hole in the handle itself, apply a washer and screw the bolt tightly. Of course, try to pick optimal size for your pen so that it does not crack. That's it! The skin will not scatter into small chips during operation, the blows actually get stuck in this material and do not create as much noise as when working with conventional wooden tool. Of course, messing around with such a tool makes sense when you are constantly working with chisels and have already changed more than a dozen mallets, but for infrequent use, an ordinary wooden mallet is quite suitable!

How to make a mallet out of wood - as easy as shelling pears!

To do this, you do not even need a drawing of a mallet - everything is very simple! Find three reasonably large pieces of maple or birch that are the same thickness. It is not recommended to take harder wood species, except for the handle, as they split from constant blows. Adjust all trimmings to the same thickness - 2-3 cm. Take one of the bars, attach a pen to it and circle its contour. Then saw a bar of tape or bow saw so that the resulting two pieces fit snugly against the handle. It is important that the handle and these two cuttings have the same thickness, equal to the thickness of the two wide bars of the striker.

We glue all the bars and the handle with wood glue, clamp it with clamps and leave it for at least 12 hours. When everything is glued, mark the rounded profile of the striker and the bevels of the sidewalls and cut off the excess. Properly go over with sandpaper and cover the wood with drying oil. It will take you a total of two days to make such a tool, of which only a few hours will be devoted directly to labor.

  • See handle bracket chrome.

Municipal budgetary educational institution

"Andreevskaya average comprehensive school»

creative project

"Kyanka"

Explanatory note To creative project by technology

ANDREEVKA 2017

Content

    Project rationale

    History of occurrence

    Development of the project idea

    Project selection

    Equipment and tools

    Safety precautions when performing work.

    Product drawing

    Routing

    economic calculation

    Ecological calculation

    Self-esteem

    Glossary of terms

    Analysis of the work performed

    Bibliography

1. Justification of the project

I chose the Mallet because I have long dreamed of making some kind of instrument with my own hands, and the mallet is perfect, easy to make and use. A mallet can perform many functions: it is used in assembly, dismantling, molding various materials and designs. In making tools and fixtures for yourself, you try to make it so that it meets your needs. Such a tool, made by hand, always becomes the most beloved.The knowledge gained in the process of studying wood processing technology turned out to be sufficient to make this product.

Target - make useful, inexpensive,neat product.

Tasks:

    Assess your capabilities in project activities.

    Apply the knowledge and skills acquired in the lessons of labor training.

    Create a sketch and choose a manufacturing technique.

    To consolidate the techniques and skills of working with wood.

    Evaluate the work done.

2. History of occurrence

Mallet - a hammer made of hard wood, rubber, soft metals, plastic or other materials.

The term comes from the word "cue" - a stick, club. In the dialects of the Russian language, as well as in Slavic languages there are several words derived from the word "cue" and denoting a hammer.From time immemorial, with the help of a large wooden mallet and a caulk (a wooden spatula), they caulked the log houses, hammering moss or tow into the grooves between the logs, as well as wooden boats and ships.

3. Development of the project idea

After I decided on the topic of the project, I drew a technological map, after which I had to find the material. I took 2 bars, one 30x5x7, the second 29x3x2. Then he started making.

4. Project selection

There are several types of mallets:

    Wooden mallet

    Rubber mallet with wooden or metal handle

    Hammer without inertia( appliedForassembly ).

I chose 1 kind. Since it is easy to manufacture, and the material is also easier to find.

5. Equipment and tools

    File

    Hacksaw

    Ruler

    Sandpaper

    Pencil

    Glue

    Chisel

6. Safety precautions when performing work.

1. Wear overalls.

2. Be careful when working.

3. Do not be distracted and do not distract your comrades.

4. Take good care of the equipment.

5. Observe the methods of working with the tool.

6. Reliably fasten the processed material.

7.Use the tool only for its intended purpose.

8. Strictly observe the established for each type of work

safety regulations.

9. Work only with serviceable and sharply sharpened tools.

7. Product drawing

8. Technological map

pencil, ruler,

2 bars.

Cut off all unnecessary details to get finished bars

File and hacksaw

Make a hole in 1 block

Chisel, pencil

Glue 1 bar with 2

Glue

9. Economic calculation

For the manufacture of mallets, materials that have worked out their time were used. Thus, by using blanks for the second time, we save environment from pollution when using recycled materials. Since I made the product from a material that was found in scrap metal, my cost of acquiring materials is practically zero.

10. Ecological calculation

Making my project, I tried to disturb the ecology of nature as little as possible and protect my health. All my products are made of oak. What is an environmentally friendly product. What could be better than working with an environmentally friendly handmade tool.

11. Self-assessment of the work performed

I am satisfied with my work, as I have achieved the desired goal. There were various difficulties in the manufacture of my product, but I coped with them. Moreover, the product I made is much cheaper than in the store.Pretty good for a first time. Perhaps my mallet will be useful to someone.

12. Glossary of terms

Bar - sawn timber with a thickness of up to 100 mm and a width of no more than double the thickness. Bars are made from boards. They are used in construction, in the furniture industry, in the production of containers, etc.

Kiyanka - carpenter's hammer made of hard wood or rubber. The mallet is used to work with chisels and chisels, the handles of which have a crimp ring. Using a mallet protects the handles cutting tools from damage.

13. Analysis of the work performed

There are no technical violations in my project, you can use it for work.

Bibliography

1.Semenikhin V.P. Making tools in school workshops.

M. "Enlightenment", 1987

2. Journal "School and production" No. 6, 2006

3. Textbook "Technology" by V. D. Simonenko, "Ventana-Count", 2014.

4. Material from Wikipedia - the free encyclopedia.

In general, now there is a large selection of mallets, mallets purchased from white rubber are excellent for work. White because it does not leave black spots from use. I have one. I have another homemade one, made from a pillow from a truck. In general, I have a total of more than 25 hammers, sledgehammers and mallets.


But I am of the opinion that it is more pleasant to work with a beautiful instrument. And I decided to make myself a beautiful mahogany mallet. Well, why not? Someone will say that this is foppishness, but I enjoy working in the workshop. If lace on a mallet brought me pleasure, I would attach them :)

Someone will be outraged, guys, you won’t be nice to everyone. Yes, I use hand tools.

I decided to make the handle from a stick from an oak pallet, and decorate the headband with a sapele. A drawing was downloaded from the Internet

It’s not that I didn’t have anything to make a pen out of at all, but first you need to look at the pattern of wood. Someone told me that it looks like Japanese oak. I haven't been to Japan so I can't confirm.

I cut oak and sapele into a rough cut.

Sliced ​​and forward, with a planer. I have both a thickness gauge and a jointer (it’s dangerous to approach it with such a chip), but I do it for my own pleasure, don’t I?

I will have a sapele around the edges, and inside the same oak. We collect a block for glue. The handle is made on a reverse wedge, i.e. when working, it will only fit tighter. The handle is not glued.

Now we form bevels with a chisel and a planer, and also chamfer.

I decided to stick strips of veneer on the handle, otherwise it turns out somehow rustic + there is a mark from the nail. The stick is from the pallet. After knocking down the chamfers on the handle, so that it lies in the hand.

And here is our result after oil coating.

I use a mallet. It lies well in the hand, you immediately take it correctly, the hands feel the orientation of the shock part due to the rectangular handle.

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Of the two mallets of the same size, the plastic one is heavier than the wooden one. It is convenient for working with thin sheet metal. Therefore, it is readily used by roofers and tinsmiths, especially since it is less “noisy”. For its manufacture does not require special skills, expensive materials and special tools.

It will take

To make a plastic mallet that is beautiful in appearance, easy to use and reliable for many years, we must prepare the following materials:
  • A canister or two, it all depends on the size. Those that are made of polyethylene will do. low pressure(HDPE, HDPE);
  • wooden blank (maple, cherry, etc.);
  • linseed oil.
Availability the following tools and equipment will help to perform the work at the modern technical level:
  • electric furnace and building hair dryer;
  • drilling machine and jigsaw;
  • cutter, grinder and grinder;
  • planer, knife and spatula;
  • clamps, chisel and hammer;
  • wooden form.

Manufacturing technology of a plastic mallet

As a raw material for a plastic mallet, we use products made of high-density polyethylene, which is not subject to cracking.
We cut the plastic into pieces before melting with a construction knife, carefully removing stickers, labels, traces of glue, etc.


The crushed raw materials, having been folded onto a metal baking sheet, are placed in an electric furnace heated to about 125 degrees Celsius, at which the plastic softens and begins to melt.


If it turns out that after melting the mass is insufficient, then you can add more raw materials on top of it and heat it all up again.



While the polyethylene is melting, we will make a handle for the plastic head. From wooden board according to the marking, we cut the workpiece with a jigsaw.
Then we process it with a manual planer, giving the tree the desired profile and section. We round the edges of the workpiece with a mechanical milling head. We clean and grind the handle with a grinder with a grinding disc.


We take out a baking sheet with molten polyethylene from the electric oven and, prying it with a spatula, put it in wooden box, heating the mass with hot air from a building hair dryer.



As soon as the softened plastic is in the box, we cover it on top with a punch lid, and press it in with clamps, while other stops hold the bottom and side walls boxes from moving.



After the plastic mass has hardened and taken on a rectangular shape, we remove the clamps, disassemble the box and remove the blank of the mallet head. Attach with a jigsaw plastic block required dimensions and form.


We carry out in the preparation of the head through hole for handle on drilling machine. With a chisel and a hammer, we expand and modify the round drilling to a rectangular one, in which the inlet section is larger than the outlet.



We put a plastic head on a wooden handle. Due to the tapered section of the hole and the handle, the fastening is reliable and durable without additional efforts and elements. We remove the head and finally bring the dimensions and correct the shape on the grinder.
Re-assemble the mallet and lubricate the handle linseed oil. Such impregnation will increase the service life of the handle, protecting it from the penetration of moisture into it.


Working with a plastic mallet is much more convenient and efficient compared to a wooden mallet due to its compactness, weight and lack of rebound.

 
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