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Conditions for growing and caring for royal geraniums. Royal geranium: pruning for lush flowering, care and reproduction at home

Royal pelargonium blooms only when complete care. Under adverse conditions, the flower will not die, but the buds will not form. The efforts made will not be in vain - the flowering is very beautiful.

Description and features

This is a powerful bushy plant up to half a meter high. Shoots branched, strong. The leaves are wide, with serrated edges. The surface is rough to the touch. The flowers are very large compared to other types of geraniums. Their diameter can reach 7 cm. The colors are dominated by purple, white, dark pink, burgundy colors. Petals are usually fringed, corrugated. Monochromatic flowers are very rare, more often two shades are harmoniously combined in color.

Growing royal pelargonium at home is not an easy task. It grows quickly, rarely dies, but it is quite difficult to keep its decorative effect and make it bloom. The flowering period is shorter than that of "ordinary" pelargoniums, it is only three to four months. For laying flower buds, it is imperative to observe a cold wintering at a temperature not exceeding 12 ° C. Royal pelargonium blooms in spring.

If the bush has grown excessively, stretched out, lost part of the lower leaves, it can be rejuvenated. To obtain young plants, apical cuttings are cut and rooted. If you root them in the fall, then by spring you can already get full-fledged flowering bushes pelargonium.

Caring for royal pelargonium: what to consider

How to care for royal pelargonium in a pot? It is important to provide her with full lighting, favorable temperature regime, find optimal schedule watering in accordance with the conditions of detention. Experienced flower growers recommend adhering to the following rules.

• Temperature . In spring and summer, the optimum temperature is around 23-24°C. In winter, royal pelargonium definitely needs a dormant period at 10-14 ° C. Cool wintering contributes to the abundant laying of flower buds in spring. Keeping warm not only prevents flowering, but also weakens the plant.
• Lighting. The need for lighting is high not only in summer, but also in winter. In summer, the plant receives right amount light from the sun, in winter it is advisable to use fluorescent lamps. Without illumination, flower buds will not be laid.
• Watering. It is necessary to water the royal pelargonium taking into account the conditions of detention. In spring and summer, when it is warm, it is watered moderately, but often - in small portions twice a day. In winter, they simply maintain soil moisture, preventing it from completely drying out. Only the top layer of soil should dry out. For a single watering take about 50 ml of water. Experienced flower growers advise replacing top watering with bottom watering to avoid soil compaction.
• Humidity . It grows and blooms normally in dry air conditions. Spraying harms pelargonium, leaves marks on its velvety leaves. Bathing in the shower is contraindicated for a flower.
• Top dressing. Contribute mineral fertilizers with week breaks. Before flowering, around the end of March, potash and phosphorus fertilizers are additionally applied. Pelargonium does not like organic matter. In winter, feeding is stopped.
• Ground. Preference is given to soils with a neutral or slightly alkaline reaction. good composition- a mixture of an equal amount of sand, peat, turf, humus and leaf ground. It is useful to add ash - it reduces acidity, provides additional nutrients.
• Pot. Use ceramic pots. With each transplant, the size of the pot is taken a little more - literally a couple of centimeters. Young, small plants they are not planted in spacious pots - this is fraught with souring of the substrate, rotting of the roots.
• Transplant. The interval between transplants of adult pelargonium is two to three years. More often it is not necessary to replant - a capricious variety is hard to tolerate transplants, flowering is delayed. The frequency of transplants depends on the intensity of growth. When thin roots begin to break through the drainage holes, it's time to repot.

Especially important is the care of royal pelargonium after purchase. For two weeks, the plant is quarantined, creating favorable conditions for adaptation. Watering is minimized, they are not fed, they carefully monitor the condition of the flower. They don’t put it in bright light - they shade it from the sun. After two weeks, gradually transfer to normal care.

Trimming Rules

You need to trim the royal pelargonium to maintain beautiful shape bush and full bloom. Common mistake- spring pruning. If you cut the pelargonium in the spring, it will postpone flowering for a year. Therefore, it is necessary to form a bush only after the end of flowering. Usually it ends in the middle of summer, sometimes a little later.

Pruning is carried out twice with a monthly interval. After the first pruning, pelargonium will actively produce new shoots. To stimulate further branching, pinch them after the fifth young leaf. Pinching is repeated up to five times to achieve a neat bush shape and active bud formation. The time of the last pinching is no later than the end of January.

If the pelargonium has grown strongly during the winter, instead of pinching, the shoots can be cut a little.

Why are there no buds

Royal pelargonium does not bloom for various reasons. In most cases, common mistakes in care affect.

• Temperature . Incorrectly selected temperature regime, warm wintering. To form flower buds in winter, pelargonium is kept cool.
• Lighting. Lack of lighting, especially in winter.
• Big pot. In a spacious pot, pelargonium sprouts new shoots, grows leaves, but does not bloom.
• Lack of nutrition. Two trace elements are needed for flowering - potassium and phosphorus. If there are not enough of them, the buds will not form. Excess nitrogen has the same effect.
• Incorrect cropping . spring pruning postpones flowering for a year. You need to wait until the end of flowering and only then prune.

To make pelargonium bloom, they create coolness in winter; in early spring, potash and phosphorus fertilizers are applied. Be sure to carry out regular pruning at the right time. If pelargonium grows in a spacious container, it is transplanted into a smaller pot.

Reproduction methods

The reproduction of royal pelargonium by cuttings is mainly used. Seeds are used only store. The seeds collected from your plant will sprout, but the flowers will be smaller and lose their characteristic bright color.

cuttings

Description . In order not to injure the plant once again, cuttings are combined with pruning. Use cut tops with three pairs of leaves. Rooting royal pelargonium in water will not work - the base of the cutting will rot. Therefore, they are planted directly in the ground.

Procedure

1. Before planting, the base of the cuttings is dipped in coal powder, dried for several hours.
2. Deepen into a loose substrate. A mixture of equal amounts of sand and perlite or peat with sand will do. In order not to disturb the roots once again, it is better to immediately take separate cups. According to some flower growers, it is convenient to use peat tablets.
3. After rooting, the cuttings are carefully transplanted into larger pots with nutrient soil. It is better not to rush, to carry out the first transplant in a couple of months.
4. Pinching over the third pair of leaves, Pinching is repeated as it grows.

Seedlings are watered twice a month with complex fertilizers with a minimum content of nitrogenous substances. Its concentration in the composition should not exceed 10-11%. The first flowering after rooting of the cutting occurs in six to nine months.

seeds

Description . Growing from seeds is used as a way to simultaneously obtain a large number of young plants. Use only store-bought seeds.

Procedure

1. Sowing begins towards the end of winter. Seeds are sown in a light, loose substrate under cover.
2. Keep in good light, if necessary, illuminate with fluorescent lamps.
3. Daily check the humidity of the substrate, remove condensate from the film or glass.

Shoots appear quite quickly - in about two weeks. The germination rate depends on the level of lighting, temperature, time of collection of seeds. Fresh seeds germinate much faster. Seedlings can be planted after the appearance of three or four true leaves.

Common diseases

Diseases for royal pelargoniums are more dangerous than other species. The table shows the most common ailments and how to treat them.

Table - Diseases of royal pelargoniums

The main pests spider mites, aphid, . To combat them, insecticides and acaricides are used. With a slight lesion, a single treatment is enough. With a strong one, you have to process it again.

Main growing problems

Not less problems arises due to proper care or inappropriate conditions. The most common growth defects and their causes are shown in the table.

Table - Problems of growing royal pelargonium

Knowing how to care for royal pelargonium, you can achieve stable and long flowering. Beautiful, large double flowers will please even those who have not really loved pelargonium before.

If you turn to specialized literature, you can find out that royal pelargonium is also known under a number of other names - royal geranium, large-flowered geranium. For scientists, the name of the plant is more familiar as - Regal Pelargonium, Pelargonium grandiflorum. Pelargonium is a member of the Geraniaceae family and can grow up to 25–50 cm in height.

However, this plant has received the greatest fame as an indoor flower, which can be explained by its long flowering period and unpretentious care. The reproduction of royal pelargonium is simple and effective, since cuttings are most often used for it.

Characteristics and description of the flower

Until the middle of the 18th century, Europe was unfamiliar with geraniums, however, everything changed when the first samples of this plant were brought from South Africa. It became the basis for breeding new varieties from cuttings.

Along with other species, breeders managed to create Pelargoniums royal grandiflora, whose main decoration is their large flowers.

• These plants usually grow as compact shrubs that are mostly hybrids. When grown at home, they are obtained in the form of small, dense bushes and fragile, highly branching stems.
• Depending on the variety, pelargonium may have various forms and leaf size. Geranium petioles do not differ in length from leaf blades. Many varieties of pelargonium grow round leaves, decorated with slightly lobed edges.
• Geranium flowers grow on an elongated, thin stem, which is covered with spherical umbrellas. Often she has single flowers of large sizes, having a bright color.
• The variety of pelargonium grown affects the color of the flowers, which can be white or any shade of pink and red.
• When grown indoors, you can get quite undersized pelargoniums that do not exceed 25–50 cm in height. The upper part of the leaves is serrated and has a rough texture, and the edges have a sharp wavy shape.

Types and varieties of flowers of royal pelargonium

The flowers are different simple, funnel-shaped, reaching a diameter of 5-8 cm. At the ends of the stems or young branches grows about 10 flowers that look like a cone.

Petals usually have a darker shade in the inner region, often in their front part dark lines appear. When providing the plant with appropriate care, you can enjoy pelargonium flowers from early spring until the very end of summer.

Features of care

When growing royal pelargonium at home, it is necessary to create favorable conditions for it, without which it is impossible to ensure its normal development.

This plant feels most comfortable in the lungs, air spaces. Individual owners are not limited to growing geraniums at home. If necessary, they can be planted in the garden, on a balcony or terrace, which has shelter from rain.

Often they are installed on the windowsill. But in this case, you have to take care of creating good ventilation, since the plant needs not only optimal temperature conditions, but also air humidity.

In general, in terms of illumination, geranium makes the following basic requirements:

1. Ensuring maximum illumination summer period partial shading required.
2. If the plant is grown outside the home, then in the chosen place it is necessary to make a shelter from precipitation.
3. Be sure to protect from direct sunlight.
4. In winter, pelargonium should be grown in a lighted and cool place where a low temperature is maintained - no higher than 10-14 degrees Celsius. In this case, she will be able to form ovaries of buds.

Watering the royal geranium

For the normal growth of royal pelargonium, it is necessary to provide regular and proper watering . In summer, it should be done twice a day - in the morning (at about 10 o'clock) and in the evening, when the sun goes down. In winter, it is enough to water the plant once a day.

There are certain features when caring for hybrids of royal pelargonium. Since they are more accustomed to elevated temperatures compared to zonal geraniums, water consumption is slightly increased during irrigation.

When watering adult bushes, adhere to the scheme - no more than 50 ml at a time. The amount of water used should be enough to slightly wet the soil.

Should avoid excess moisture, because in such conditions the likelihood of rot and infection is increased. This often explains the reluctance of royal pelargonium to bloom at home.

Required temperature

During the cultivation of royal pelargonium, it is necessary provide optimal temperature within 18−25 degrees Celsius.

To avoid these unpleasant situations, it does not hurt every grower to have a hygrometer, thermometer and weather station.

plant sleep period

In the dormant stage, which lasts for royal pelargonium from October to March, it is necessary to prevent overdrying of the earthy coma. The very same care at this time of the year the plant is almost not required.

Even before the pelargonium enters the dormant stage, you need cut off the flowers on it, buds and weak leaves. When pruning, it is necessary to remove the shoots by one third of the length.

Such a measure will not only give the plant more freedom, but also help it get more air. Another benefit of pruning is increased resistance to diseases and pests. Watering should be carried out only at those moments when it is required, taking into account the situation.

In the dormant stage, royal pelargonium is grown at a temperature of 15 degrees Celsius. However, individual flower growers may be prevented from properly caring for the plant in winter by the lack of space or time for this. In this case, proceed as follows:

• the plants are removed from the pots, then the leading shoots are shortened, the root ball is cleaned of dirt, and the roots are also cut off;
• at this stage of the life cycle, each plant is wrapped in a newspaper and wrapped in a film;
• in the end, it remains to tie and hang it in the basement.

No doubt, many will like this method, because throughout the winter do not have to care for the flower. Pelargonium is remembered in March, when it is taken out of the package and transplanted back into pots.

Geranium pruning and fertilizer

During the entire growing season, once every two weeks, it is necessary to apply liquid fertilizer. From October to February, the plants are at rest, so fertilizing at this time of the year is not required.

Once again, I would like to repeat that compact bushes of royal pelargonium bloom most abundantly compared to overgrown ones. New branches are often formed in old, already lignified shoots.

If the geranium has been grown for many years, then it is enough to trim it once a year. And the timing doesn't matter.

How do geraniums reproduce?

Regardless of the variety of royal pelargonium, from which you want to get a new bush at home, it is recommended use cutting method. To do this, already in the first weeks of summer or autumn, cuttings should be prepared, which are cut below the internodes at an angle of 45 degrees.

If the escape belongs to dwarf variety, then it must be separated by about 5 cm, and for large ones - 10 cm. Having ready-made cuttings on hand, you need to cut off the lower leaves and flowers from them.

The process of propagation of royal geranium flowers at home takes place a little differently than in the case of other varieties. It is not recommended to allow high soil moisture, as this can lead to rotting of the plant.

For this reason, you should be very careful with the cuttings: when there are several days left before planting, you should refrain from placing them in water.

More effective measure is to dry them for two hours. However, first you need a place to cut treat with charcoal and Kornevin.

To get new geranium bushes at home, you first have to prepare small diameter pot. As a drainage, you can use shards that fill the bottom of the pot.

It is not recommended to plant a cutting in wet or excessively dry soil, therefore, in such a situation, immediately after planting, watering can only be done along the edge.

What to do after landing

The popularity of the royal geranium cuttings method can be explained by the fact that harvested shoots take root quickly. Usually 3-4 weeks are enough for the first shoots to appear. This is a sure sign that it's time to increase your watering a bit.

However, here it is necessary be as careful as possible, as there is a danger of soaking the substrate.

When another 4 weeks have passed, the young bushes of royal pelargonium begin harden in the sun, and subsequently caring for them is carried out in the same way as for adult specimens.

After waiting for the formation of a well-developed root system in them, it is possible to transplant geraniums into the soil, which is prepared from compost.

Pelargonium transplant

Even with the appearance of many flowers and leaves, the royal geranium itself often remains quite compact. The resulting root processes are looking for extra space to grow in the drain hole, and when they succeed, they clog it.

This is one of the common reasons why pelargonium does not bloom at home. With regard to geraniums, transplantation can be carried out no more than once every two years, always using a fresh earthen substrate.

First, you need to clean the rhizome from the old soil by gently shaking. Further, pruning of long, thick roots and shoots is carried out in order to remove part of them by half. Then the geranium is returned to the old pot, which fill with fresh soil.

Pests and Care Mistakes

The greatest danger to royal geraniums is the disease " blackleg". It can be identified by the fact that the stems turn black at ground level. But you need to be very careful, because this disease can quickly affect the entire plant.

Usually it occurs due to waterlogging of the soil or high humidity. To prevent this from happening, for royal pelargonium it is necessary create optimal conditions development, and they involve the provision of relatively dry air.

Rust is also a problem for geraniums. The harm from it is manifested in the yellowing of the leaves and their subsequent death. Geranium shoots and flowers are not protected from this disease.

Therefore, noticing potential signs of rust on the leaves of a flower, they are immediately need to cut off, which is an effective preventive measure against this disease.

Royal pelargonium does not sound very familiar to many, although this is not surprising, because this is the official name of geranium.

Beneath it hides quite beautiful plant, which can become a spectacular decoration not only in the apartment, but also on the garden plot. However, proper care involves creating an enabling environment for growth, otherwise even waiting for pelargonium to bloom will not be easy.

The name royal pelargonium fully justifies itself. This is really a luxurious and capricious flower, downright regal among pelargoniums or simply geraniums. Caring for royal pelargonium has its own characteristics, and it is not always easy to achieve its flowering, you need to know some of the nuances. The plant is photophilous. In winter, its shoots are strongly stretched due to insufficient lighting and it is necessary to form a plant every spring by pruning. At the same time, the top layer of soil in the pot is replaced with fresh, without replanting the plant.

Royal pelargonium does not tolerate waterlogging, it can even make it sick. But the soil should be constantly moist in summer, and watering should be plentiful enough. In winter, they water less often, only a couple of times a month. Water should be settled, room temperature. Watering is carried out through the pallet. This prevents the compaction of the earth, which the royal pelargonium cannot stand. And the roots will get enough moisture through the pan. Care for royal pelargonium should include a dormant period in the winter months with poor watering and an air temperature of 13-15 degrees. In this plant, the laying of buds occurs only at low temperatures.

Another little secret concerning pelargonium. All geraniums, and royal pelargonium among them, bloom better in cramped dishes, so they are transplanted only when the root system is so developed that it will penetrate through the drainage hole. But even then, the new pot needs to be chosen only slightly larger than the old one, 1.5 centimeters in diameter. For top dressing, buy special fertilizers for pelargoniums and apply them during the growing season twice a month.

Growing royal pelargonium

The main whim of this beautiful aristocrat is that, compared with other types of pelargoniums, she does not indulge us with a very long flowering.
Royal Pelargonium blooms very little - just a few months a year. And even then she pleases with flowers only on the condition that in winter she was provided with the correct content: a cool temperature (not higher than +15 degrees) and additional lighting.
However, those flower growers who once saw the enchanting flowering of this beauty and unconditionally fell in love, agree to all her whims. Ensuring the nuances of caring for the noble pelargonium begins to seem like a trifle to them compared to the long-awaited holiday of its flowering!

So, in order for the royal pelargonium to successfully take root in the house and delight with regular flowering, several important rules must be followed:

1. Accommodation. Royal pelargoniums love to bask under the gentle rays. But in extreme heat, you need to additionally protect this plant from the hot sun, because otherwise it can easily get burned.

Unlike other types of pelargoniums that live safely in the warm season in the garden, the royal pelargonium is afraid of rain and wind. Therefore, it is better to leave it at home or place it in cozy corner glazed terrace, veranda or balcony with plenty of fresh air.

2. Temperature regime. The aristocratic pelargonium does not tolerate heat. Having given all the strength to exist in conditions of high temperature, the royal pelargonium then does not grow for a long time and, moreover, does not bloom.

It is desirable that the winter and night temperature of its content in a bright, cool place does not exceed 15 degrees (which is easy to arrange in winter garden but not always possible in a living room).

Under unfavorable conditions, especially in the heat, pests (aphids, whiteflies) appear on the leaves of the royal pelargonium.

3. Flowering. Given the relatively short flowering period of the noble pelargonium, I want to observe this beauty for a longer time!
As emphasized above, for a longer and more lush flowering, you need to winter time provide the correct temperature conditions and additional lighting rare watering. Then a lot of flower buds will form on the bush.

Royal pelargonium will grow better and bloom more magnificently if you regularly pinch the tops of the plant's shoots in advance. But this procedure should be stopped long before the start of flowering, so that the buds have time to form on the bush.

Fertilization of the plant during the period of active growth, in spring and summer, contributes to the prolongation of the flowering of noble pelargonium. Ideal use liquid fertilizer For flowering plants high in potassium and trace elements.

From March to August, noble pelargonium requires abundant watering, but without stagnant moisture!
And, of course, to prolong the flowering of the pelargonium bush and maintain a neat appearance, you need to remove fading flowers.

Reproduction of royal pelargonium

Royal Pelargonium is propagated vegetatively by cuttings from the tops of the shoots. The best time for this procedure is the end of summer and the beginning of autumn, August-September.

The ends of the chopped apical cuttings of noble pelargonium with 2-3 internodes should be sprinkled with coal powder with the addition of Kornevin, and then dried a little (a couple of hours).

After that, I place the cuttings prepared for planting in moistened sand or a mixture of sand and peat (in equal proportions).
In no case should you cover the rooting cuttings of the royal pelargonium!

The classic way that is usually propagated vegetatively zonal pelargoniums- rooting cuttings in water - not suitable for noble pelargonium. Because cuttings of royal pelargonium placed in water inevitably rot. Yes and mature plant does not tolerate excessive watering: its roots rot, gray mold appears on the shoots. For this reason, rooting cuttings of royal pelargonium should be watered very carefully: only as the substrate dries out, and only along the edge of the pot.

Rooted young plants are transplanted into pots with drainage holes and a layer of drainage, filled with a light nutrient substrate.
Well-groomed royal pelargoniums build up the root system well, develop successfully, form a beautiful bush and bloom the next year.

royal geranium self-care requires careful and attentive, as the plant is rather capricious. In low light, it blooms poorly or does not bloom at all. In addition to intensive lighting, it also requires sufficient coolness (10-15 degrees). Therefore, it is recommended in summer time years to keep on outdoors. This tender plant brittle stem, beautiful flowers. To enhance flowering, the plant should be fed once a week during the budding period with a standard fertilizer for flowering plants. Removing dry flowers and leaves also encourages flowering.

royal geranium grows well. After the end of the flowering season, it is necessary to form a crown, i.e. cut branches and pinch buds. In the spring, this cannot be done, because the plant enters the flowering phase. In summer, the plant should be watered abundantly, and in winter - sparingly. The temperature in winter should be maintained around 10-15 degrees Celsius, for which it is moved closer to the glass or placed on covered veranda(loggia).

Geraniums do not need to be transplanted often, because they need loose, light, nutritious soil that drains well. The soil is best used from a mixture of sand and soddy soil in a ratio of 1: 1 or a mixture of equal parts of sand, perlite and high-moor peat, previously disinfected. With aging, the plant loses its attractiveness - the stems grow, fall apart, so there is a need for pruning, that is, rejuvenation, which consists in cutting the apical cuttings of the flower.

Many types of geranium root easily at any time of the year, but not the royal geranium, it requires special conditions.

Since propagation by cuttings occurs at the beginning of spring and the end of summer, the air temperature range in spring should fluctuate in the range of 18–20 degrees, and in summer no more than 25 degrees. If the temperature regime is not observed, rooting becomes weak and not all cuttings take root. In cold summers, the entire period of active growth is suitable for reproduction. And in the spring, the plant from which cuttings are taken for propagation should enter the phase of active growth.

cut sharp knife and dried cuttings are planted in the ground. Rooting lasts about 3 weeks, while they are not watered, but only sprayed. After rooting, young plants pinch the central stem for branching.

I'm afraid to disappoint you, but I don't have any special secrets in growing royal pelargoniums. Everything is like everyone else.
Previously, royal pelargoniums grew on my windowsills and bloomed remarkably.
The varieties that performed best at home were Aztec, Dark Secret, Eileen Postle, Fareham, First Blush, Hazel Candy, Imperial, Lord Bute, Mont Blanc (this is generally a very hardworking variety), Peter's Choice, Roussilion, Vampires Kiss, Bold Candy and PAC varieties, but this is my observation regarding these varieties, they did not stretch much and bloomed profusely.
This year, we have the most comfortable wintering conditions for pelargoniums. Now they hibernate at a temperature of +15 degrees (too much, it needs to be cooler). On a sunny winter day, the temperature in daytime reaches +30 degrees. Therefore, you constantly have to ventilate, for which vents in the roof were specially equipped. Last winter, pelargoniums wintered in a film greenhouse, where the temperature did not rise above +10 degrees, and in very coldy was +4 degrees. This is what they need. Plants from this temperature become very stocky, many buds are laid in the axils of the leaves. And the colors become more intense. Moreover, together with the royal ones, both zonal and ivy-leaved wintered there. Everyone felt great in such conditions. About pruning, I can say that I am a supporter of coordinated measures. Sometimes I cut it so that lignified stumps remain without a single leaf. The main thing is not to be afraid, otherwise it will be more expensive for yourself later. The plant will stretch and bloom somewhere on top. After a while (you will have to wait a while), these stumps begin to grow and turn into fluffy bushes. And every time after pruning you wonder, will they really grow back? And they grow - small buds, begin to wake up along a lignified stem. And further main point. After pruning, you need to be careful with watering, as there is little leaf mass, as a result of which evaporation and photosynthesis are slowed down. From excessive moisture, there is a possibility of acidification of the soil and, as a result, rotting of the root system. I prune in late September - early October and immediately transplant into a new land. I make my own soil mix. The main part is pine needles, since pine forests grow around the city. I also add purchased land Terra Vita, large White sand(namely large) and a little humus (just a little, because if you sort it out, the earth will turn out to be heavy, it will turn sour and quickly cake). Instead of sand, you can use perlite or vermiculite, but sand is cheaper, since my husband brings it to me from the Don River. The earth mixture turns out to be airy and very crumbly, and sand plays the main role in this. I transplant my "Queens" annually - nutrients in such a land for full growth and flowering is enough for a year. Previously, nothing and never fertilized. Pelargoniums bloomed, so to speak, from their own potential and received all the nutrients from the earth, which was already moderately fertilized with humus. Now I am conducting a small experiment: I water one part with Kemira Lux fertilizer (I read a lot about miraculous properties), and the other part with plain tap water, as I did before. I want to see who is faster and will bloom more luxuriantly, and in general what will be the differences. I will write about the results of my experiment.
And most importantly, what our mistake is, is that having received a cutting of a new variety, we are looking forward to its flowering (well, now, it seems like the buds have already appeared). But there are no buds, it turned out to be leaves, and then again leaves. And the result is a plant that looks like a "giraffe" with flowers on top. But you don’t need to do this, otherwise it will be more expensive for yourself and there will be much more fuss. So I did it with the Marchioness of Bute variety (well, I really wanted to see how it blooms). It grew into a meter-long stick in two years and did not bloom - alas. Yesterday I was angry with him and made him a “sikir head”. Maybe he will get scared and decide to please me someday with flowering. I do not make such mistakes again and I do not advise you.
Oh, sorry, a whole poem turned out.

Http://pelargonium-club.ru/forum/lofiversion/index.php/t781.html

In courtyard front gardens, on window sills, balconies, and even in city flower beds, with the onset of summer, you can see brightly flowering pelargonium bushes, popularly referred to as geraniums. Due to the unpretentiousness and ease of care, pelargoniums enjoy the well-deserved love of flower growers. But few people, unfortunately, suspect that among the family of real "Cinderellas" there are also "queens".

Since the root system of the plant does not tolerate stagnant moisture, a powerful drainage layer is required for pelargonium, and no less attention is paid to the selection of a pot when planting. It is because of the transplant into too large dishes that many flower growers are disappointed in the culture, and the royal pelargonium does not bloom.

Getting into a voluminous pot, the plant rapidly increases its green mass, but completely “forgets” about the set of buds.

Similar the process is underway and with the wrong mixture of fertilizers. If nitrogen predominates in top dressing during the formation of buds and flowering, the stems and leaves grow, and the buds become less and less. Best Blends for feeding pelargoniums are distinguished by a high content of potassium and providing abundant and long flowering.

Pelargonium pruning

The reason why royal pelargonium does not bloom may be incorrect or insufficient pruning. Since the plants grow rapidly and the buds are formed on the tops of the shoots, it is easy to increase pure flower buds by pinching or cutting the tops of overgrown stems in July and August. This measure will:

• use the resulting cuttings for propagation;
• achieve lush flowering next season;
• stimulate the growth of young shoots;
• give the bush a compact attractive shape.

It is better to trim the plant gradually, without seriously injuring the pelargonium, and after the operation, the plant must be fed. At the end of winter, with the beginning of a new formation of buds, pruning is completed.

Cuttings of pelargoniums

The resulting cuttings can be rooted all year round, but in the warm season it is much easier to do this.

As planting material, take strong tops of the shoots, having at least two pairs of leaves and cut 5 mm below the node. It is better to cut off the lower leaves immediately and leave no more than 3 upper leaf plates. After this, the places of cuts on the cuttings are treated with chopped charcoal and left in the air for 18-24 hours.

True, there is another way. Already 10 minutes after separation from the mother plant, cut cuttings:

• treated with root;
• planted in a mixture of sand, humus and peat;
• cover with non-woven material for 2-3 days.

Good results are obtained by planting cuttings in moistened peat tablets.

In any case, plantings are watered with a solution of phytosporin, which will protect the cuts from the development of rot. And how to care for pelargonium after the cuttings have given roots?

Until the moment when the cuttings, which are at a temperature of 19–23 ° C, take root well, it will take from 8 to 12 weeks. After this time:

• young plants are planted in a permanent place;
• pinch the main shoot over the third pair of leaves, which will force the bush to give new side stems.

If at home the care for royal pelargonium, as in the photo, is good, young plants develop well, and next spring small neat bushes give the first inflorescences.

How to root cuttings of royal geranium - video

The royal geranium, which is otherwise called pelargonium, has received such a majestic name for a reason. This plant is different amazing beauty, elegance and sophistication. However, it also requires royal care. Unlike fellows of other varieties, this representative of the flora needs specific care and constant attention. If you do not give the flower the required, lush buds can never wait.

The beautiful royal is a native of South America, where a humid and hot climate reigns. That is why she feels great in warm rooms with high humidity. To Europe amazing flower brought only at the end of the XVIII century. IN as soon as possible it has gained immense popularity among gardeners. From that moment on, breeders have been continuously working, as a result of which more and more new varieties of royal pelargonium are born. It is difficult to name the exact number of species known today.

At home, a noble representative of the flora grows to a height of 60-80 cm. Growing taller bushes is not considered appropriate, since flowers appear only at the highest points of growth. If a geranium reaches 1 m in height, it completely loses its decorative qualities. However, if you are a fan of the experiment, you can try to grow a 1.5 m high bush in the open ground. It will be an excellent backdrop for undersized garden dwellers.

Description of the royal plant

home distinguishing feature royal geranium - gorgeous inflorescences. In width, they can reach 25 cm. But in order to achieve such magnificence, it is necessary to ensure proper care of the plant. The more fertilizer with potassium and phosphorus you make during the preparation for flowering, the larger the buds will be. Usually there are inflorescences of medium size - about 15 cm.

All royals have oval spots in the central part of the petal. They are darker and more saturated than the rest of the areas. There are both classic and terry royal pelargoniums. The latter look more advantageous. Shades of buds amaze with their diversity. There are instances of yellow, dazzling white, purple, red, pink and even orange flowers.

The petals of plants are both flat concave and slightly wavy. Varieties of corrugated flowers of the royal plant are rare. The leaves are toothed, oval or rounded. Their surface is usually rough, quite pleasant to the touch. The shade of the leaves depends on the general condition of the royal. If the flower is healthy and provided with everything necessary, its foliage has a rich emerald color. The central trunk and all shoots are tightly covered. And if the plant feels bad, the foliage fades, and parts of the bush are exposed.

Unlike other geranium varieties, the royal individual has a rather short flowering period. As a rule, it does not exceed six months. A houseplant blooms in early spring.

Royal Pelargonium (video)

What conditions does the flower need?

Like all representatives of the nobility, the royal geranium makes high demands on the conditions of detention. To make your pet feel comfortable, you should follow 4 basic rules.

1. Royal geranium absolutely does not tolerate both waterlogging and overdrying of the soil. In addition, she suffers from direct sun rays and winds. Therefore, experienced gardeners strongly do not recommend planting this flower in open ground for the summer period. Unlike relatives, he will not be happy with such hardening. The only thing that can be done in the summer is to take out the pelargonium right in the pot on the balcony or garden. At the same time, it is important to ensure that the plant is in partial shade and does not stand in a draft. Geranium living on the windowsill needs shading in summer. If this is not done, sunburn may form on the leaves.
2. Another rule that the gardener should write down in his diary: the royal individual should not experience a shortage of light throughout the year. Unlike zonal geraniums, which accumulate over the summer sunlight for the whole coming year and winter well even in rooms with poor lighting, the royal plant cannot live in the dark. With a lack of lighting, it stretches up, and also does not have the strength to lay buds for the next flowering. Therefore, for the lush flowering of a fastidious beauty, flower growers are advised to purchase special fluorescent lamps.
3. In order for the geranium to begin to bloom, care must be taken to maintain a special temperature regime. In winter, the plant feels great at 12-15°C. In such conditions, it lays buds for flowering in the next season. If the temperature is elevated and exceeds 24 ° C, the flower begins to experience discomfort. IN best case it ceases to bloom, at worst - completely stops growth.
4. Particular attention in the care of the royal specimen must be given to watering. It is necessary to choose the intensity of soil moisture taking into account the temperature regime. In summer, watering should be moderate and regular, in winter - sparing and rather rare. Experienced gardeners it is recommended not to pour the liquid from above, but to pour it into the pan. This is due to the fact that royal geranium does not tolerate soil compaction quite well. For irrigation, it is better to take rainwater, or a clean settled liquid.

When and how to transplant a plant?

Unlike their counterparts, who endure the annual transplant to and from the garden, the royal specimen is not a fan of such movements. It is better not to disturb him with a transplant once again. You need to change the pot only if the overgrown root system no longer fits into the old one. Up to this point, you can limit yourself to only periodically adding fresh earth to the container.

It is recommended to transplant pelargonium once every 2 years. If this procedure is not performed in time, the plant may not bloom or there will be very few flowers on the bush. It is better to transplant as early as possible. The optimal time is the beginning of February. After the flower buds begin to form, and it blooms.

The soil for the royal is no different from the soil that suits other members of the species. It can be prepared independently by mixing in equal proportions:

• sod land;
• peat;
• deciduous land;
• river sand.

Be sure to take care of creating a drainage layer. Otherwise, the plant risks dying due to stagnant water at the roots. Expanded clay, crushed stone, crushed sand can be used as drainage. Ceramic pots are best for growing hydrangeas. They provide an even distribution of air and maintain a suitable temperature of the earthen coma. After transplantation, attention to the flower should be increased.

What fertilizer does geranium need?

The need for fertilizers royal geranium is experiencing during the period of active growth, bud formation, flowering. Nutrients need to be applied every 2 weeks from late March to mid-November. It is better to use liquid top dressing, for example, a solution of iodine is a good tool. To prepare it, 1 drop of the substance is added to 1 liter of water. About 50 ml of the prepared composition is carefully poured over the walls of the pot. When demolishing a larger amount of top dressing, there is a risk of damage to the root system.

Purchased mineral fertilizers can also be used to feed the plant. However, it is important to ensure that nitrogen does not predominate in their composition. Otherwise, the stems and leaves will grow actively, but the buds will become noticeably smaller. It is better to choose mixtures with a high content of phosphorus and potassium. They will provide long and abundant flowering.

It is not recommended to use fresh organics as fertilizers for geraniums. royal plant he just doesn't get that kind of support.

When and how is pruning done?

Incorrect pruning is one of the most common beginner mistakes when growing royal geraniums at home. Most flower growers believe that the optimal time for this procedure is the beginning of spring. However, this opinion is erroneous. It is better if pruning is carried out immediately after flowering is completed, that is, in late August or early September. If you process the bush in the spring, next season it is unlikely to bloom.

It is optimal if pruning is carried out in 2 doses with an interval between sessions of 1-1.5 months. In this case, the royal person will experience less stress and endure the procedure more easily. After removing the excess parts of the plant, be sure to pamper the geranium with fertilizers.

If pruning is carried out correctly and on time, young shoots will begin to appear on the geranium in the fall. They must be pinched over 4-5 pairs of leaves. In this case, new stems will grow even more actively. Professional flower growers who form excellent exhibition specimens spend an average of 3-4 pinching per season. As a result, by spring, the decorative bush acquires a compact shape and blooms profusely. The number of pinches from amateur gardeners largely depends on the conditions of the plant. At the same time, do not forget: in any case, the last procedure must be carried out no later than at the beginning of February. If, during the winter period, the bush is very stretched out, it will be better if, instead of the final pinching, the overgrown shoots are pruned.

Proper care of geraniums (video)

Plant propagation methods

Cuttings are the simplest, most effective and common method of propagating royal geraniums. For it, you can use tops with 3-4 pairs of leaves obtained during pruning. It is necessary to know that the cuttings of this plant cannot be rooted in water. In conditions of high humidity, they do not grow roots, but only rot.

To propagate the bush, it is necessary to form cut points with charcoal, dry it a little and immediately plant the cuttings in the ground. The optimal composition of the soil: a mixture of equal parts of perlite and peat. It is recommended to immediately plant young plants in separate pots; peat cups can also be used. This will exclude mass death green pets in the event that care and reproduction were carried out incorrectly.

After about 1-2 months, the plants will take root completely, after which they can be transplanted into a nutrient mixture consisting of sod and hardwood, sand and peat, mixed in equal proportions. It is not necessary to cover the cuttings with banks or polyethylene, it is enough to keep them in a warm room with moderate lighting, ensuring timely watering.

For lush flowering and full growth during the growing season, young bushes must be periodically fed. It is better to use mineral fertilizers with low content nitrogen. During flowering, which in case of proper care occurs approximately 6-9 months after rooting, it is recommended to use fertilizers for flowering houseplants. You can buy them at any specialized store.

The royal individual, unlike other types of pelargonium, does not like to propagate by seeds. Usually, when using this method, the signs of doubleness and semi-doubleness of the finest mother varieties are not transmitted. However, if you are a fan of experiments, be sure to try growing marvelous geraniums from seeds. You may be able to create a new view.

Why doesn't the royal geranium bloom?

Amateur flower growers who have become owners of a beautiful royal geranium are looking forward to the moment when a beautiful green pet will bloom. However, they often have to experience disappointment: instead of the most beautiful large inflorescences, the fastidious royal geranium gives only abundant foliage, and the rapidly growing shoots stretch out and spoil the whole look. Why is this happening? Most likely, when caring for the plant, the basic rules were violated:

• the bush suffers from a lack of lighting or due to an incorrectly selected temperature regime;
• the flower lives in a too large pot;
• applied fertilizers have an unbalanced composition;
• the transplant was not made on time;
• pruning was performed in violation of the basic rules or was completely absent.

All reasons for the lack of flowering can be eliminated quite easily. After this is done, the marvelous royal will delight yours with lush blooms.

What diseases and pests are dangerous for geraniums?

Like any other indoor plants, royal pelargonium is prone to diseases and pests. Usually, ailments attack a green pet due to violations of the conditions of detention. However, if you constantly monitor the plant and take action in time, dangerous consequences invasion can be avoided.

1. If the leaves of a room beauty turn yellow, she may suffer from a lack of moisture or nutritional deficiencies. The same symptom indicates too tight a pot and even overfeeding fertilizers with nitrogen.
2. Have the leaves become limp and drooping, have mold or brown spots formed on them? Look for the cause in excessive watering. Excessive moisture can provoke the appearance of depressed dark spots on the stems.
3. The fall of the lower foliage, the exposure of the stem and the extension of the top of the bush are clear signs that the green pet is suffering from a lack of lighting. If an incorrectly selected temperature regime is added to this, you can not expect lush flowering of geraniums.

Sick and oppressed plants become easy prey for pests. Royal pelargonium can be attacked by whiteflies, aphids,. Action must be taken immediately after uninvited guests are discovered. It is necessary to isolate the affected plant from other pets and process its leaves soapy water. If this does not help, spraying with insecticides is required.