Wisteria: growing tree vines in the garden. Beauty wisteria: care at home and on the site, problems in growing
It is impossible to take your eyes off the blooming wisteria. It fills the space with fireworks of various colors and shades - from light blue and pale pink to intense purple and creamy white, which are painted inflorescences in the form of long spectacular brushes, hanging down in a plentiful waterfall. When wisteria blooms, a walk among this heavenly whirlpool of colors resembles a magical dream, where there is no place, no sadness, no sadness. After all, it is not for nothing that they say that being surrounded by her, you seem to find yourself in a real paradise.
Description
Genus Wisteria (Wisteria) - in Latin, Wisteria belongs to the legume family. It is represented by subtropical tree-like plants - high climbing vines.
Translated from Greek the name of this plant means the epithet "sweet". It really fills the surrounding atmosphere with a pleasant sweet aroma throughout the entire flowering stage. This is one of the most beautiful flowering representatives of the flora.
The name Wisteria is official. It is established by the International Code of Botanical Nomenclature. It comes from the name of Professor Caspar Wistar, who studied anatomy at the turn of the 18th and 19th centuries at the University of Pennsylvania.
Wisteria refers to deciduous tree forms. Its height can reach twenty meters. As the tree grows, a majestic crown with a diameter of up to eight meters is formed from drooping long ones.
An adult wisteria tree has different shapes. It can be a tree with a powerful trunk or a weaving vine that gradually captures the surrounding space of your garden.
The unpaired light green leaves of wisteria are large, reaching a length of 30 cm. The fluff covering the leaf plates of young plants gradually disappears, making their color more saturated.
Blue, purple, white, pink, lilac wisteria flowers are combined into racemose inflorescences resembling grapes, the length of which varies on average from 25 to 50 cm. Although, there are varieties of wisteria with inflorescences up to 70 cm long.
The natural habitat of wisteria is China, where it grows in the provinces of Sichuan and Hubei. This tree is widely cultivated, but it shows the greatest decorative effect in humid subtropics. In our latitudes, it takes root well in the Crimea and in the southern territories of Russia.
With proper organization of planting and care, the subtropical beauty can be successfully cultivated in the middle Russian zone, if you select frost-resistant varieties. For horticulture, varieties with purple and white flowers are bred. For indoor floriculture wisteria cultivation is carried out in the form of bonsai.
Starting to bloom in the first spring months, the wisteria tree captivates with a cloud of colorful flowers almost until the beginning of autumn, after which the ripening beans are used as a seed.
Popular varieties of wisteria in Russia (photo)
Of the nine types of wisteria in our temperate climate, four varieties are adapted with varying degrees of frost resistance.
Chinese wisteria (Wisteria chinensis)
Wisteria comes from China, reaching a height of twenty meters, has a dense crown. double flowers they are predominantly a delicate lilac color, but sometimes a white tint is also found.
This magical tree blooms throughout summer season. Inflorescences appear in parallel with awakening leaves. In warm climates, it is able to bloom again at the end of summer.
Cirrus leaves give additional decorativeness to the plant, creating an openwork halo around purple inflorescences up to 40 cm long. If competent pruning is carried out during the growth of the vine, a tree-like form is formed.
In the winter season, Chinese wisteria is able to withstand a short-term drop in temperature to 20 degrees below zero.
Large wisteria (Wisteria macrostachys)
The natural range of this variety of wisteria is North America. The frost-resistant variety Blue Moon is especially appreciated. The name translates as "blue moon". This type of vine is more adapted to frosty winters, as it is able to survive even at -40C.
The maximum height is eight meters. The leaves are dark green in color. The flowers are predominantly blue or purple. The length of the inflorescences varies from 20 to 30 cm. They appear in June and are fragrant with a delicate aroma for three weeks.
Blooming Wisteria (Wisteria floribunda)
This luxurious type of wisteria grows in Japan. With an average height of 10 meters, it impresses with the size of leaf plates, having a length of up to 0.4 meters, and inflorescences - up to 0.7 meters.
It blooms in late spring, when the leaves have already appeared. Reddish, violet-blue, white, purple flowers open gradually, starting from the bottom of the brush.
Flowering ends by mid-June. Under favorable climatic conditions, it can please by August with the reappearance of inflorescences.
Wisteria is cultivated successfully even in those Russian regions where winter temperature does not fall below - 25C.
Shrub wisteria (Wisteria frutescens)
This type of wisteria with drooping branches can grow up to 12 meters. The petals are purple-blue. Can be used as a tub culture.
Wisteria - cultivation and reproduction
There are many ways to grow wisteria on your own. suburban area. The most practical and effective methods of which are:
- seed
- Vegetative
seed breeding
Seed breeding of wisteria - is used quite rarely, since the young seedling practically does not acquire the varietal characteristics of the mother plant.
Seed material is purchased in specialized salons or collected independently if there are adult plants on the site.
Soil preparation
At the beginning of winter, a soil substrate is prepared by mixing soddy soil in equal volumes, leaf humus and fine sand. You can purchase a ready-made mixture oriented for exotic representatives of the flora. The resulting soil is poured into containers.
Sowing activities are carried out in several stages:
- Seeds are pre-filled with a solution of a growth stimulator diluted according to the instructions and kept there for about three hours.
Lay out on a moistened soil surface. - A thin layer of sand is distributed on top, which should slightly cover the seeds. Then they cover it with a transparent film and place a miniature greenhouse in a warm place without lighting with a temperature of at least twenty degrees.
- Then airing is carried out daily and, if necessary, the soil is sprayed with water, preventing it from drying out. Shelter is removed on average after a month, when active spitting of seeds begins.
- After two weeks, the container is moved to the windowsill, providing protection from the midday burning sun. Sprouts at this point are regularly irrigated with a spray gun, but I avoid strong waterlogging that can cause rot of young stems.
- When the third leaflet develops, the shoots are ready for transplanting into local containers, in which a drainage layer is arranged at the bottom and the soil substrate is poured. In the container, the soil is watered and the seedlings are carefully removed, keeping a clod of earth. Immediately planted in prepared containers, after which the transplanted plants are watered with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
When warm spring weather sets in, the crops begin to harden, taking the pots to the veranda or balcony, where they should be for two hours.
Vegetative propagation methods
The vegetative method of growing wisteria has also worked well. For plant propagation, the most commonly used:
- cuttings
- Reproduction by layering
- root graft
cuttings
The most simple, but no less effective way Growing wisteria is a cutting method. It is performed as follows:
- In autumn, a healthy strong branch is chosen and cuttings are cut from 15 to 20 cm long. For storage, they are placed in a cellar, poured with moist soil.
- In the spring, in order to root growth, the cuttings are planted in a greenhouse under a film, having previously kept them in a stimulator.
- In warm weather, cuttings can be placed directly in open ground. To do this, the selected area with light fertile soil is dug up well, weed roots are removed from it. Next, the surface is leveled with a rake and the prepared cuttings are deepened into it by several centimeters. From above, each copy is covered with glass jars. Can be used for this purpose with cut necks.
Important! The average survival rate of wisteria with this method is less than 50%.
Reproduction by layering
This method is the most reliable and allows you to get a strong, viable planting material.
- In early spring, before the leaves appear on an adult vine, a healthy shoot is picked up, located close to the soil surface. With a sharp knife, an oblique cut is made from the underside of the branch (approximately in the middle). It is recommended to spray the cuttings with a stimulant, for example, indoleacetic acid which increases the likelihood of rooting.
- A long container is filled with a mixture of loamy soil and soddy soil. Layers are laid by placing an incision on the surface of the substrate. Pour another layer on top soil mixture so that only the crown remains free. The branch is fixed by sticking wire staples on top.
- During the spring season, as the substrate dries, it is plentifully watered, while mature plant waterlogged soil does not like very much. Usually, a strong root system appears at the cuttings by the beginning of autumn, but they are separated from the mother tree and planted in the allotted place only in the spring.
Important! Layers can be rooted without the use of containers, strengthening them directly in the ground. Both methods are quite effective and usually give a positive result.
wisteria root graft
If, after sowing the seeds, it was possible to obtain viable seedlings that took root well in the open field, but lost their varietal characteristics, root grafting can be carried out.
How to do root grafting of wisteria:
- Dig up young plants autumn period after all the leaves have fallen. The root system is separated and placed in a box, sprinkled with sand. The box is placed in the basement, where it should be until the middle of winter.
- In January, the box is moved to a warm room, giving it the opportunity to warm up for another two weeks.
- The role of the scion is played by cuttings harvested from varietal wisteria with two buds. The cut should be 30 mm below the kidney. A root with a diameter identical to the scion is selected and a cut is also made at its top with a sharp knife. The stock is tightly combined with the scion and fixed with adhesive tape.
- It remains to bury the roots in the soil substrate, previously poured into the container. The grafting site must remain above the surface.
- The top of the container is covered with a transparent film to provide the necessary humidity. A miniature greenhouse must be ventilated daily. The substrate is moistened as needed. Evidence of a good survival rate of the grafted cuttings will be the development of shoots from axillary buds after about a month.
As soon as the shoots sprout, the shelter is removed. The grafted seedling continues to be cared for for about three more weeks. The strengthened wisteria is transplanted to the allotted place in open ground.
Rules for planting wisteria in the ground
Having independently grown seedlings or having prepared rooted cuttings, you need to transplant them to the site. Planting material, enriched nutrients, can be purchased at specialized nurseries.
Important! For planting wisteria, an open place is chosen to ensure its sufficient illumination. At the same time, it is necessary to provide protection against strong winds. Wisteria feels good next to, on the frame of which branches can be distributed to create a great composition.
The soil for planting wisteria requires loose, light and slightly alkaline. If the soil is acidic in the courtyard, lime or crushed chalk must be added. When digging, rotted compost is added.
It is advisable to select a place without close occurrence of aquifers, since in conditions of stagnant water, wisteria will grow poorly and may die.
When is the best time to plant wisteria?
Planting is carried out in the spring season, when night frosts stop. Planting pits are being prepared on the dug-up site, the main guideline for which is the size of the root system along with the earthen clod.
Important! The dimensions of the pit should be twice the size of the root of the seedling. Gravel is poured to the bottom as drainage, if it is not available, you can put fragments of brick or small cobblestones. A little soil is poured on top.
The soil in the seedling pot is moistened and the plant is carefully removed without shaking the ground from the roots. The seedling is carefully placed in a hole and the voids are filled with soil mixed with a teaspoon of complex mineral fertilizer. Each layer of earth is carefully compacted with a wooden block.
How to care for wisteria
Caring for wisteria involves the implementation of standard agricultural practices, taking into account some features.
Watering is carried out taking into account weather conditions. If the spring-summer season is dry, then the procedure is carried out regularly, spilling the soil abundantly. It is necessary to ensure that moisture is completely absorbed into the soil without stagnation.
Important! Excessive drying of the soil surface should be avoided, which should be slightly moistened before the next watering. Starting in October, the vine is preparing for a dormant period, so the interval between waterings is lengthening.
It is a pleasure to relax under the beautiful and majestic branches of wisteria
The soil under the plant should be loosened and weeds removed. To retain moisture, lay a layer of mulch from sawdust or peat. During the growing season, wisteria is fed once a week with a mineral complex, dissolving 10 grams of fertilizer in ten liters. This volume is calculated per square meter. Can be alternated with organics.
Pruning is carried out to stimulate the development of inflorescences at the end of May, cut to a length of about 30 cm. Last year's side shoots. In August, fresh growth is still cut into four buds. When spring comes, once again last year's growth is cut into three buds.
In late autumn, wisteria is prepared for wintering. To do this, the near-stem circle is loosened and the plant is highly spudded. Mulch is placed on top. Shoots are removed from the supports. They carefully wrap the trunk, cover with leaves. Covering non-woven material is placed on top.
Pests on wisteria rarely appear, but sometimes leaf damage, caterpillars, mites, and even can be observed. The treatment is carried out with biological products or insecticidal preparations, which are diluted in accordance with the instructions.
Although, as a rule, the most colorful and unique flowering plants grow in tropical climates. But the most diligent gardeners still take risks and grow beautiful wisterias, which, during flowering, lower thousands of colorful clusters of flowers to the ground. These are bright and fragrant flowering plants that can make any site chic. Of course, in the territory Central Europe and Asia, it is rare to find this plant, but recently many varieties have appeared that perfectly tolerate our frosts. In order to see all the beauty of this plant with your own eyes, it is worth making a little effort in growing and caring.
In this article, we will take a closer look at the features and description of wisteria, learn about the most common types and varieties of this plant. And also note the important nuances of agricultural cultivation.
Features and description of wisteria
Wisteria also has a second name - wisteria, which this plant received in honor of Caspar Wistar, professor of anatomy at the University of Pennsylvania. Wisteria is a deciduous climbing tree-like flowering plant belonging to the legume family. This bright representative amazes everyone with its appearance, especially during the flowering period, when a large number of long inflorescences hang down to the ground, like bright clusters. The natural habitat of wisteria is considered to be the territory of China, namely the province of Hubei. As an ornamental plant, wisteria is common in vast areas of tropical and subtropical climate: this is the Crimea, the entire south of Russia, the Black Sea region, and the southern territories of the United States.
There is a very beautiful Chinese legend about the origin of wisteria. A very long time ago, in one village, there lived a beautiful girl, whose name was Gui. She was so beautiful that no one could take their eyes off her. Her hair was also beautiful, which shimmered with lilac-violet hues during the day, and became bluish in the evening. Once a girl was kidnapped by a dragon, which after this atrocity turned into a tree wrapping around other plants. And when the dragon raised its head, trying to release the flame, only flowers appeared, resembling the hair of a beautiful girl.
Description:
- Wisteria in Greek means "sweet", which is associated with the wonderful aroma of its flowers.
- There was a lot of controversy as to whether it was a flower or a creeper. However, in the end, a general concept was formed that wisteria is a tree-like climbing and flowering plant.
- In appearance, it is a woody vine with drooping branches.
- An adult wisteria liana can reach a height of 15-18 m, and in diameter the crown sometimes grows up to 8 m in diameter.
- It is not very fast growing - it can grow only 20 cm per season.
- The leaves of wisteria are large, unpaired, which consist of 7-13 small leaves. Young leaves are slightly pubescent, later glabrous.
- Wisteria blooms with pink, lavender, purple, blue and white flowers, which are collected in loose inflorescences up to 30 cm in length.
- The flowering of this amazing creeper begins in spring in late March or early April and lasts almost until the end of summer.
- Wisteria flowers have a delicious aroma.
- Wisteria is the queen among garden vines and is widely used to decorate the site and buildings.
- In total, there are 9 species of this plant in nature, of which only a few have become widespread in temperate climates.
Variety of species and varieties of wisteria
Beautiful wisteria has 9 varieties, but not all of them received wide use on our territory in a temperate climate. Let's give brief description the main types and varieties of wisteria.
Chinese wisteria
- This wisteria comes from China, where it grows in large numbers in nature.
- Chinese wisteria can reach 18-20 m in height.
- This is a tall liana big amount foliage.
- The leaves are large, up to 30 cm long, pinnate. Most often consist of 7-10 small leaves.
- The flowers of this wisteria are white or purple, most often collected in hanging loose brushes up to 30 cm in length.
- Liana grows very quickly. The main feature is the twisting of the barrel counterclockwise.
- It can withstand short frosts down to minus 20 degrees.
- It looks great in landscaping the site, and it is also possible to use it for growing in tubs.
To date, several varieties of Chinese wisteria are known:
- Chinese wisteria "Alba". Liana with snow-white flowers, less often with a small lilac shade. Differs in very long inflorescences that can hang up to 40 cm.
- Chinese wisteria "Plena". This is a wisteria with beautiful double flowers.
- Wisteria "Sierra Madre". This form of Chinese wisteria blooms with lavender-purple flowers.
Wisteria profusely flowering or many-flowered
- Sometimes you can find the name lush wisteria.
- Unlike Chinese wisteria, this vine is smaller. It reaches a height of only 10 m.
- The foliage is large, up to 40 cm in length. Consists of a large number small leaves, on average 17-19 pcs.
- Judging by the name, it is clear that this type of wisteria has more flowers, they are collected in large inflorescences up to 50 cm in length.
- The flowers themselves are slightly smaller than those of the Chinese.
- Wisteria blooms profusely blooming with bright purple-blue flowers. At what flowers bloom gradually.
- Flowering begins in mid-spring.
- Another difference from Chinese wisteria is the twisting of the trunk clockwise.
- More frost-resistant, can withstand up to minus 23 degrees.
There are several forms of profusely flowering wisteria:
- Wisteria "Alba" A plant with white flowers, rarely with a slight purple tint. Inflorescences are large, up to 60 cm in length.
- Wisteria 'Rosea'. The flowers of this type of wisteria are distinguished by pale pink flowers with purple wings. Inflorescences can reach 45 cm in length.
- Wisteria "Multyuga". It blooms with beautiful lilac-blue flowers, which are collected in long inflorescences up to 90-100 cm in length.
- Royal Pearl. It blooms with violet-purple flowers, collected in inflorescences up to 50 cm in length.
wisteria beautiful
- This plant is native to Japan.
- Wisteria is not tall, can grow up to 10 m.
- The leaves of this creeper are also small, only 10 cm. They are slightly pubescent on both sides.
- Flowers in diameter reach 2-2.5 cm, which are collected in racemose inflorescences 20 s in length.
- It mainly blooms with white flowers, there are also forms with double and purple flowers.
Varieties of wisteria beautiful:
- Wisteria "White Silk". It blooms with snow-white flowers, collected in rather long inflorescences.
Wisteria shrub
- In height, this type of wisteria grows by 12 m.
- It is a climbing plant with drooping branches.
- Differs in very small leaves and flowers of a purple or blue hue.
- Mostly found on the territory of the Crimea or Chisinau.
- Feels great when grown in tubs.
Wisteria japonica
This type of wisteria is not as popular and common as others. This is due to frost intolerance, the plant usually freezes to the very snow cover. It is a climbing vine with white flowers. It grows naturally in Japan.
wisteria
This species originated from North America. Sometimes wisteria macropus tends to freeze. It is distinguished by beautiful snow-white flowers, which are collected in cone-shaped inflorescences, reaching 1 m in length.
On the basis of this species, breeders bred a cold-resistant variety of wisteria - Blue Moon wisteria. This type of plant can withstand frosts down to minus 40 without shelter.
Ways to propagate wisteria
This beautiful plant can be diluted in many different ways. Both vegetative and generative methods are suitable for reproduction.
Seed propagation of wisteria
This is the most unpopular propagation method and can result in wisteria that won't bloom. Flowering is possible, but after many years. Also, when growing wisteria from seeds, your plant may not inherit most of the decorative mother traits.
- Wisteria seeds should be sown in the greenhouse in November or December. If you decide to plant immediately in the ground, then you need to do this in early spring.
- First you need to prepare a nutrient soil, which should consist of leaf humus, sod, garden soil and sand.
- Seeds must be sown on the surface and sprinkled with a small layer of sand.
- Moisten the crops and cover with glass or film.
- For normal germination of wisteria seeds, you need to create conditions of darkness.
- Sowing care consists in constant airing and moistening of the soil.
- The temperature should be between 20-25 degrees Celsius.
- The first shoots appear already 3-4 weeks.
- After that, containers with seedlings should be taken out to light partial shade, where they grow until a few strong leaves appear.
- Next, the seedlings need to dive into separate pots. At the same time, make sure that the root system is not damaged. It is best to dive with a clod of earth.
- In the spring, a strengthened bush can be transplanted to a chosen place or for growing in an outdoor greenhouse.
Propagation of wisteria by cuttings
- Cuttings must be harvested in late autumn.
- To do this, you need to find strong and healthy shoots of this year on wisteria and cut cuttings of 20-25 cm from them.
- After that, all the prepared cuttings must be folded together and tied.
- The resulting beam is placed in a container with a wet substrate. The container must be placed in a cool and dark place.
- Preparing cuttings for planting in early spring when the container with planting material is taken out of storage.
- In the spring, you can plant cuttings for growing in a greenhouse, or you can plant them immediately in open ground under plastic bottles.
- It is also possible to propagate by winter cuttings, which are harvested in advance.
- It is best to apply this method in February.
- To do this, the shoots need to be split into two halves along, and then cut into short cuttings, about 5-8 cm.
- Be careful when cutting cuttings. so that everyone has one soil in the center.
- Such cuttings should be planted in prepared containers and placed in a greenhouse where the cuttings are kept until they are fully rooted.
Reproduction by layering
- Wisteria is propagated by layering in autumn.
- To do this, on the mother bush, you need to choose a strong and healthy lower shoot.
- Next, make a longitudinal oblique incision on it, which will be fixed in the ground.
- The incision site should be well sprinkled with nutrient soil, leaving only the top on the surface.
- In spring or autumn, you need to check the root system. If she is strong enough, then the layers can be disconnected from the mother bush and planted in a permanent place.
Preparation before planting wisteria
To get a beautiful and healthy wisteria plant, it is important to carefully prepare before the planting process itself. It is necessary to choose high-quality planting material, preferably grown wisteria seedlings. It is also important to choose the most suitable place for this capricious plant on your site.
Selection of wisteria seedlings
To facilitate the process of planting wisteria, it is best to purchase already grown seedlings. Usually they can be purchased at special agricultural firms or nurseries where they are professionally grown. various kinds plants. It is preferable to buy wisteria with a closed root system, so the vine will take root better and will be less susceptible to damage. Before buying, be sure to carefully inspect the seedling. It should not be damaged and signs of diseases and pests.
You should not buy wisteria seedlings in spontaneous markets and from strangers. In this case, you may find yourself in an unpleasant situation when you don’t have exactly what you expected in your hands. It is also best to buy more frost-resistant varieties of this plant, so that later you can admire the beauty of its flowering.
Selecting a landing site
Wisteria is exotic plant, therefore, it is rather capricious about the conditions of growth, including the place of growth.
- For the full growth of wisteria, it is necessary to choose a sunny and open area where the sun will be at least half a day.
- The place must also be protected from drafts.
- Before planting, you need to consider a fairly spacious area, as wisteria grows very quickly.
- When choosing a place, also consider the composition you are interested in. After all, wisteria can be used to decorate the walls of the house, gazebos and terraces.
Selection and preparation of soil for planting wisteria
This vine prefers to grow on nutritious and loose soils. It is also important that the soil is slightly alkaline with a minimum lime content. Although wisteria can grow on other soils, only its growth will be less active. It is important that the soil in your chosen location is well-drained, as wisteria does not tolerate prolonged stagnant water at the roots.
Wisteria planting technology
- It is best to plant wisteria outdoors in the spring, when the threat of the last frost has passed.
- The selected landing site must be dug up well, by about one bayonet of a shovel.
- Compost can be added to the soil during this process.
- Next, you need to dig planting holes for each seedling, if you have purchased several. The main thing to remember is that one plant needs a lot of space.
- Single size landing pit should be 60 cm wide and 50 cm deep.
- Before planting, carefully remove the seedling from the container. You can pre-moisten the soil in it so as not to damage the root system.
- A layer of drainage should be placed in each pit to prevent stagnation of water at the wisteria roots. Small stones or expanded clay can be used as drainage.
- Pour a little mineral fertilizer into the bottom of each hole.
- Next, carefully place the seedling in the pit and sprinkle with soil, lightly tamping with your hands.
- After planting, you need to water the plant abundantly.
- Take care of the supports in advance, as the vine grows very quickly and its branches need to be supported with something.
Agricultural technology for growing wisteria: the nuances and secrets of care
Caring for wisteria is a rather laborious process, as it is a very capricious plant, whose homeland is the subtropics. It is important to maintain a moist state of the soil, as well as to periodically fertilize and loosen the soil.
Watering wisteria
Wisteria needs moderate regular watering. To make it easier for you to navigate and exclude cases of flooding the plant with water, look at the soil around the vine - it should be slightly moist all the time. But not wet. In a particularly hot season, watering should be increased, as the buds may begin to crumble from the plant due to lack of moisture. It is best to use the spraying method for watering. In mid-September, watering should be stopped.
Loosening and weeding
Periodically throughout the season, the soil around the plant needs to be loosened, so wisteria prefers to grow on loose and light lands. It is best to carry out this process after watering. In parallel, you need to remove all weeds that may interfere with the growth of the vine. The soil in the trunk circle can be mulched to reduce the amount of loosening and reduce the evaporation of moisture. Dry peat or sawdust can be used as mulch.
pruning
To stimulate the appearance of new buds, old wilted ones must be cut off. Also, the vine needs periodic pruning to form a crown. This process should be carried out in the summer, during its course, 20 cm of their length must be cut off from the side shoots. If you are growing wisteria as a standard crop, then you need to remove all but one of the stems. When growing a climbing plant, you need to cut off all side shoots that give only greenery. However, you should not prune the plant too often, because you may not see the flowering of this beautiful plant at all.
wisteria support
During landing, it is imperative to take care of the support, which will serve for a long time. The support must be strong and securely support the branches of the plant. The overgrown shoots of wisteria on the support must be tied up in order to facilitate the removal of branches for shelter in the fall.
Top dressing wisteria
To get a gorgeous flowering tree, you need to feed it regularly. The plant needs weekly fertilization. You can alternate the application of liquid mineral fertilizers and organically. As organic matter, you can use a mullein infusion diluted with water in a ratio of 1 to 20. Nitrogen fertilizers should not be applied during active budding, otherwise the plant will let the foliage go well, but not the flowers.
Disease and pest control
Wisteria is quite resistant to the appearance of various diseases and pests, but sometimes the plant still needs treatment.
Wisteria diseases:
- Chlorosis. This disease appears in a plant in the presence of a large amount of alkali in the soil. Signs of chlorosis are yellowing of the foliage. To combat this disease, you need to use iron salts.
Pests:
- Aphid. The most common pest that can be eliminated with the help of special insecticides.
- Mite. To combat this pest, acaricidal preparations can be used.
Shelter of wisteria for the winter
Most types of wisteria do not tolerate frost and cold very well, so they need shelter. In autumn, after the foliage has fallen, it is necessary to remove all branches from the supports and lay them on the soil around the trunk. Previously, the soil must be spudded in a near-trunk circle. Further, all shoots should be covered with spruce branches and non-woven covering material.
The use of wisteria in landscape design
Wisteria is a very decorative plant, the beauty of which is appreciated by landscape designers. Unfortunately, it is quite difficult to grow a large and flowering tree on our territory, however, with little effort possible to achieve positive results.
IN landscape design Wisteria is used in various ways:
- As a creeper for entwining arbors, walls of houses, and terraces.
- As a beautiful standard plant that can be grown in large pots.
- Wisteria is great for growing as a houseplant, such as creating bonsai.
Photo of wisteria in landscape design
You can more clearly see the beauty of wisteria and how to use it to decorate the site in the proposed photos.
Wall decoration with wisteria
Creating flower arches
Growing wisteria in tubs
Lianas are the most desirable and beautiful elements landscape design that can turn an ordinary site into a work of art. And wisteria is rightfully considered the queen of vines, the beauty of which is striking at first sight.
Light purple and white brushes of flowering wisteria do not leave anyone indifferent. Starting in spring, this tree-like liana pleases the eye with its flowering, which lasts all summer. In open ground, wisteria is widely distributed as ornamental plant. This article will discuss the features of planting and caring for this beautiful liana.
Varieties and varieties
The tree-like wisteria liana also has the second name "wisteria". The subtropics are considered natural habitats, however, cultivated species can grow in almost any climate, and some varieties bred by American biologists can withstand severe winter frosts without shelter and retain the ability to bloom.
Wisteria is an incredibly beautiful liana that can be easily grown even in the north of Russia
In total, wisteria has 9 species, but most often you can find several of them:
Planting wisteria
When planting wisteria, it must be borne in mind that the plant is a perennial, and a place for it must be chosen on long years. If you want to achieve maximum flowering, then you should choose a site where the vine will be in the sun for at least half a day. In addition to the sun, care must be taken to ensure that the place is sufficiently protected from the wind, and the soil is nutritious and well-drained. Wisteria prefers slightly alkaline soils.
Planting wisteria is best done in the spring, after the last frost has passed. Despite the fact that most varieties of wisteria are frost-resistant, it is not worth putting young plants at risk once again.
For wisteria, it is necessary to determine a sunny place on the site.
Most often, wisteria is grown from seedlings. The soil is dug up with mineral fertilizer before planting, after which holes are dug 50 cm deep, into which young plants are placed.
If you plant wisteria from seeds, then the vine will not begin to bloom soon. At best, after 5 years, but very often only by 10 years.
wisteria care
Wisteria care begins with a garter of young shoots. Since the vine grows for a long time and has a high windage, the support must be durable and able to withstand wind loads.
Advice. It is best to tie a wisteria to the support, because independent weaving around the support can lead to the fact that in the fall it will be very difficult to remove the vine in preparation for winter.
The soil should not be calcareous, otherwise the wisteria leaves will brighten and lose their decorative effect.
Watering. Too wet soil can cause the plant to drop leaves and buds. Therefore, moderation in watering should be observed from the beginning of flowering until the end of summer. In the summer, additional spraying can be carried out so as not to once again fill the roots with water. In September, watering should be minimized and the plant should be allowed to prepare for winter.
The soil around the wisteria should not be too waterlogged.
Pruning. A very important condition for the flowering of wisteria is timely and correctly carried out pruning. Wisteria flowers develop on last year's and even earlier vines. Sometimes on young shoots of this year. Therefore, for the correct formation of color buds at the beginning of summer or at the end of May (depending on the flowering season of wisteria), the shoots of the last year are shortened, leaving no more than 30 cm.
In autumn, the shoots of the new season are cut off, cutting off 4 buds. After that, in early spring, while tying the vines to the support, last year's shoots are reduced by another 2 buds. By following these simple rules pruning you will achieve the most decorative and lush flowering, which is so valued in wisteria.
pruning wisteria
Preparing for winter. Many varieties of wisteria are preferably covered for the winter, especially in the northern regions. Young shoots are considered the most vulnerable. In autumn, it is recommended to untie them from the support and lay them on the ground. The root part is added dropwise with a thick layer of earth, and the shoots are covered with spruce branches, a layer of leaves or a special covering material. The older the plant becomes, the higher its frost resistance, respectively, the less it needs winter shelter.
Scheme: pruning and shaping vines
Advice. At severe frosts some of the young shoots still die, but you should not be upset because of this, because this is exactly the material that is to be pruned.
Fertilizer and top dressing wisteria
It is impossible to take your eyes off the photo with blooming wisterias. To achieve the same flowering on your vine, you should pay a little attention to top dressing. During active life, it is recommended to fertilize wisteria at least once a week, while it is best to alternate liquid mineral fertilizers with organic ones (for example, with mullein infusion diluted with water in a ratio of 1:20). A one-time top dressing in the summer can make a chalky solution. To do this, dilute 100 g of chalk in a bucket warm water and water the plant under the root.
No need to feed wisteria too often
Advice. Experienced gardeners remind that wisteria refers to legumes, so you need to be careful with nitrogen-containing fertilizers.
Propagation of wisteria
There are many ways to propagate this beautiful vine.
The easiest way to propagate wisteria is cuttings. In late autumn, the vine is cut off from the bush, cut into cuttings, tied and cleaned in a cool place, after being buried in a damp base. In early spring, the vine is taken out of the basement and planted under plastic bottles. It can be planted both in a cold greenhouse, and immediately to a permanent place of deployment. Approximately half of the planted cuttings will take root.
In December, you can try to propagate wisteria vaccination. It must be done exclusively on the roots, because the wood of the vine is too soft, and it will not be possible to graft.
Wisteria is well propagated by cuttings.
A fairly effective method of reproduction is rooting layering. In the fall, when all the leaves fall off, the lowest shoots are slightly scarred, tilted to the ground and sprinkled with soil so that only the tops remain on the surface. Shoots are ringed from the side of the mother bush in the spring, when the buds begin to appear. And in the fall, it is necessary to check whether the root system of layering has developed sufficiently. If the roots have not yet grown sufficiently, then the layers are left in this form for another year. If the root system has developed enough, then the layers are dug up and planted in a new place.
Also common is the method of reproduction. winter cuttings. February is considered the best time for this. The shoot prepared in advance must be split lengthwise into two parts and the resulting halves cut into cuttings. The length of the cutting is about 5 cm, and in the center of each there must be a kidney. The cuttings are planted in boxes, maintaining a small distance between them, and the soil is sprinkled with sand on top. The boxes are stored in the greenhouse until rooting.
Young creeper
Another way that brings almost 100% results is reproduction. this year's shoots. In order for the root system to form faster, the lower edges of the cuttings must be treated with synthetic phytohormones in accordance with the instructions. After the cuttings have stood in the solution for 12 hours, they are washed with running water and planted in a greenhouse with a crumbly substrate prepared from equal parts of sand, earth and peat. You can plant petioles in boxes that need to be covered with glass and put in a light shade and watered once a day, maintaining sufficient soil moisture. When the first shoots appear, they switch to moderate watering (once every three days). In the fall, they are transferred to a sunny place or shading is removed.
wisteria seeds
Propagation of wisteria seeds many gardeners consider it ineffective, because the flowering of such vines may not begin, or begin only after a few years. Yes and decorative properties very rarely saved. However, some shoots from seeds give unexpected results and young vines outshine the mother ones in their decorative qualities. Such findings are subsequently used for selection.
Seeds are sown in a greenhouse in the middle of winter. When sowing directly into open ground, it is best to do so in early spring. Seeds germinate late. However, this method of propagation also has its advantages - plants grown from seeds from the first days are adapted to natural surprises and are much more stable and hardy.
Pests and diseases of wisteria
Wisteria is quite resistant to diseases, but from time to time it is subject to aphid occupation, which can be easily corrected with an insecticide. Some gardeners also noticed the raids of the clover mite, which is successfully destroyed by acaricidal preparations. Of the diseases, chlorosis can overcome wisteria if you place your vine on alkaline soil. This disease can be identified by yellowing and falling leaves. As a treatment, it is necessary to make fertilizing with iron salts.
clover mite
Wisteria in the garden
The flowering of wisteria is an unforgettable whirlpool of colors, in which long brushes of many shades - blue, red, white - rush down like an unrestrained waterfall, exuding a sweet aroma. In Japan, walking through a wisteria garden is like walking through paradise.
Perennial flowers can be planted under the wisteria
Very often in landscape design, wisteria is used as vertical gardening site. Despite the fact that the liana occupies a minimum of space, its decorative effect is exceptional. With its help, they decorate unsightly walls, fences and any other buildings and technical structures that can spoil the overall appearance. This vine will help zone areas, acting as a screen and creating natural shelters from the sun and wind. To create an original ensemble, try planting wisteria and at the base. Will look good against the background of wisteria, white or wolfberry. Numerous photos will tell you how best to decorate your garden with this beautiful creeper.
Unpretentious in care, wisteria is able to please the eye of any fastidious gardener.
How to cut wisteria correctly: video
Wisteria: photo
Wisteria (the second name is “Wisteria”) is a winding subtropical deciduous vine with a tree-like trunk, belonging to the legume family. Its name is translated from Greek as "sweet". It is obvious that the liana got its name due to the flowering of huge tassels, exuding a pleasant sweet aroma. This garden plant among gardeners and landscape designers there are both adherents and opponents. The first appreciate it for its beautiful abundant flowering, the ability to grow quickly, braid any possible supports, hide structural and landscape flaws under foliage and flowers, and unlimited decor possibilities. The latter are not ready for the difficulties that wisteria presents: care and cultivation are not too simple, they require certain knowledge and patience (after all, it takes from 3 to 10 years before the first flowers appear). proper care). But those who can understand the nuances will be rewarded with incredible beauty.
Wisteria is a real garden centenarian. Her age can reach 100-150 years. This plant looks most impressive, curled along arched and lattice structures. The famous Japanese garden Kawachi Fuji receives thousands of tourists who come to see the beauty of the tunnels and waterfalls of blooming wisteria.
However, it should be remembered that, as it grows, mature wisteria becomes very heavy and can bring down not very strong gratings and posts, strangle even very large trees, and damage pipes and drains that it encounters on its way.
Types of wisteria
Today, there are nine types of wisteria. Features of the most common types:
Table. Types of wisteria.
| Type of wisteria | Reaches height | Aroma | flowering period | The length of flower brushes | Peculiarities |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Chinese (Wisteria sinensis) | 3-8 m and above | the most noticeable pleasant smell | from early spring to early summer | about 30 cm. | Homeland - China. More thermophilic than Japanese; all brushes bloom almost simultaneously until foliage appears; creepers are twisted counterclockwise. |
| Japanese or floriferous (Wisteria Floribunda) | 6-9 m and above | flowers are strongly fragrant | mid-spring to early summer | about 30 cm. | Homeland - Japan. Has a large number of shades of colors; creepers twist clockwise; bright flower clusters bloom at the same time as the leaves appear. |
| American or bush (Wisteria Frutescens) | 3-9 m. | the flowers don't smell that much | late spring, occasionally summer | about 15 cm. | Homeland - the east of the USA. Flowers lilac-blue; does not grow as aggressively as Asian varieties. |
| frost-resistant (Wisteria Macrostachya) | 4-8 m. | the flowers are quite fragrant | late spring - early summer | about 20 cm. | Homeland - Western America. Fairly cold hardy. Blooms several times during the growing season. |
| Silky or short-breasted (Wisteria Brachybotrys) | 3-6 m. | strongly scented | late spring | 10-15 cm. | An excellent choice for the wall of the house or a large gazebo. Large pale lilac flowers with a noticeable white spot; soft, hairy leaves. |
Wisteria selection
When choosing a plant for your garden, you should first decide on the type. All types of wisteria are warm and photophilous, however, there are species that are more resistant to cold, and some will simply die in cold climates. It is also worth paying attention to how high an adult plant reaches, depending on the species.
It is better to choose varietal, grafted wisteria obtained in nurseries by diversion or winter grafting on pieces of roots. Growing this vine from seeds or cuttings is more of a myth and a lottery. In this case, it is possible for a very long time (up to 10-20 years) to achieve their flowering, and the result is very likely not to meet expectations.
Where and how to plant wisteria
Location is an important factor to consider when growing wisteria. This perennial over time, it forms a tree-like trunk and processes that require strong reliable support. This same feature makes it almost impossible to move the plant to another place if you change your mind after a few years. It is also necessary to remember that wisteria needs regular pruning to control growth and stimulate flowering, so it is worth paying attention to increased attention choosing the right place for your plant.
Appropriate place
Not the right place
Before planting seedlings, it is necessary to prepare the soil and support. The support for young plants should be both vertical and horizontal (in the form of steel wire stretch marks located at a distance of 30-45 cm from each other).
Plenty of well-rotted manure or garden compost should be added to the soil to improve fertility and drainage. Remember that your wisteria will be growing here for many years, so it's worth taking the time to create ideal soil conditions from the start. You need to deepen the seedling into the substrate to the same level as in the transport pot from the nursery. Usually, this is just below the grafting point - the bulge in the stem where the main plant was grafted to the root.
After planting, the plant needs to be watered.
Video - Planting wisteria
Feeding and watering
During the first year of life, a young plant needs a fairly plentiful watering. In the future, it will need to be somewhat reduced, and during the dormant period, from late autumn to early spring, completely stopped.
For top dressing, you need to alternate organic and inorganic fertilizers.
As organic, you can use: chicken manure, wood ash, eggshells, manure. You can read more about soil fertilization with eggshells.
Fertilizers suitable for fruit trees. The problem of yellowing leaves helps to solve the introduction of iron salts under the root.
Important! You need to start fertilizing wisteria in March, when young leaves appear. Watering after winter begins gradually, not allowing the plant to be flooded during the frost period.
Can be used in spring potash fertilizers, to encourage flowering, but don't overdo it, as overfeeding with potassium can result in profuse foliage and fewer flowers.
Why is the wisteria not blooming?
This is one of the most common questions among beginner gardeners. And the answer boils down to four reasons:
Care. The Importance of Pruning
It is the need for constant pruning that puts some gardeners in a state of panic. However, if you understand and master the basic principles, in practice it turns out to be not so difficult.
Wisteria needs to be cut twice a year - the first time in late winter (February) to prepare for the upcoming flowering season and the second time in mid-summer (July to August). Summer pruning allows you to control abundant growth, remove long shoots, directs the energy of the plant to the development of peduncles.
Proper pruning during the first two years is very important. Its purpose is to prepare young wisteria to form the basis of permanent stems. This includes selecting and tying certain main shoots to support wires and preventing unwanted growth. After 2 or 3 years, the plant will form a certain shape, the so-called "skeleton" of your wisteria.
Step 1: summer
It's best to start by tying any strong side shoots to form the desired shape along the supports. After that, you can cut off all the remaining young shoots, leaving four to six leaves on each.
Step 2: winter
It is much easier to prune wisteria in February or March, as the shape and structure of the plant is visible after the foliage has fallen.
Each shoot cut in summer can be reduced to two buds. Winter pruning will create conditions so that the leaves do not obscure the inflorescences.
Preparing for winter
It is better to cover the heat-loving wisteria for the winter, especially in regions where the temperature drops below -5 ° C in winter. How younger plant, the more it can be affected by the impact low temperatures. In autumn, it is recommended to untie the young shoots from the support and lay them on the ground. A thick layer of earth is poured near the roots, and the shoots are covered with special material, fallen leaves or spruce branches. As the plant matures, winter shelter can be taken care of less, as its cold resistance increases.
Growing wisteria in the form of a standard tree
Wisteria, formed in the form of a standard tree, looks very original.
But creating such beauty requires effort and patience. The shaping process will take at least 4 years.
Without support, the wisteria immediately "lays down" on the ground. The main task will be to form the trunk and direct its growth upwards.
Propagation of wisteria
Reproduction is possible by cuttings, green shoots, root grafting, air layering and seeds.
Important! The most effective for preserving varietal affiliation and providing a relatively fast result in the form of abundant flowering methods of root grafting and air layering are considered.
Other methods are ineffective, give poor or unpredictable results.
Video - Reproduction and pruning of wisteria
Diseases and pests
Wisteria is quite resistant to diseases and pests. Sometimes it can be affected by aphids or clover mites.
Signs of aphids
- Escape curvature.
- Sticky "honey" dew.
- White plaque.
- Falling buds and leaves.
To combat such a lesion, it is best to use insecticide solutions - spray the plant about once a week until the pest invasion has completely disappeared. Fairly effective and folk methods like soapy water, tomato leaf infusion, garlic spray.
Signs of damage by clover mites
- Leaf damage begins in the form of strokes and stripes, then the leaf acquires a characteristic bronze tint and dies.
- On the surface of the leaf, you can see the dark red eggs laid by the tick.
Important! If infection in initial stage can deal with defeat soap solution. If wisteria is already severely affected, the use of acaricides is recommended.
Of the diseases, wisteria can sometimes undergo chlorosis, which is expressed in yellowing of the leaves and arises from excessively alkaline soil. The solution to this problem is to fertilize or spray with iron chelate. There may be cases of damage to flowers by bud blast - the buds and buds turn black, it seems that they are covered with mold. In this case, diseased branches are cut and burned, and the plant is treated with an insecticide against leafhoppers, the carrier of the disease.
Video - Care for wisteria: diseases and pests
Growing wisteria at home
Wisterias are also grown at home in the form of a formed standard tree, similar to bonsai. For home maintenance, the most undersized and slow-growing varieties are chosen.
From November to February, domesticated liana should be stored in a bright room with high humidity and a fairly low temperature of 6-10 ˚С. Watering for this period must be stopped. From February, you can transfer it to a warmer room and gradually resume watering.
Care and cultivation of wisteria rewards the grower with an amazing sight during flowering - as if raindrops gently pour from the sky, playing with lilac-purple reflections.
It is quite possible to grow a piece of the Japanese Ashikaga park with flowing brushes of inflorescences in your own summer cottage in temperate climate, because some varieties of vines are quite frost-resistant.
Blooming wisteria is fragrant with a pleasant aroma throughout the area and, no doubt, creates a romantic mood even for inveterate skeptics.
In addition to its decorative purpose, the plant is also very useful - its foliage has the most valuable antibiotic properties and releases phytoncides into the air that can suppress the development of even a tubercle bacillus.
Having once seen live how wisteria blooms, it is impossible to deny yourself the desire to grow this miracle near your home.
Wisterias are tree-like vines from the legume family native to China, Japan and Korea, some species were introduced and introduced in the eastern United States and grew wild there. In ornamental horticulture, grown throughout the world, but preferred humid climate subtropics.
Translated from Greek name plants sounds like "sweet" and is associated with the fragrant smell of flowers. The synonym "Wisteria", repeating the Latin name Wisteria, is associated with the name of the American scientist K. Wistar.
Fast-growing pagons of wisteria can rise up to 20 m and spread up to 10 m in length. The world's largest representative of the genus, planted in 1894 in the Sierra Madre, California, covers an area of 0.40 hectares and weighs almost 250 tons. The leaves of the plant are pinnate, from 15 to 35 cm long, arranged alternately along the pagons, consist of 9-19 lobules.
The real wealth of the creeper is the lush domed inflorescences-brushes 30-50 cm long, in some varieties they reach 80 cm, drooping down.
The flowers are usually lilac-blue with violet at the base of the petals, but pink or white are also available. Blooms in spring before foliage appears.
The seeds ripen in long, thin pods and are poisonous, containing significant levels of glycerin.
Types and varieties of wisteria with names and photos
According to various sources, the genus Wisteria, or wisteria, includes 9 or 10 species of spectacular flowering plants:
Chinese wisteria (Wisteria sinensis) - lignified stems of the plant reach a height of 20-25 m.
Around the support are twisted counterclockwise. Young pagons are pubescent, then the whitish villi disappear.
The leaves are imparipinnate, consist of 7-13 narrowly ovoid fragment lobules. Brushes are formed in the axils of the leaves or on the tops of biennial shoots.
The flowers are small, only 2-2.5 cm long, moth-like, usually blue-violet, but there are also forms with white corollas.
The fruits are densely pubescent beans with 1-3 shiny brownish seeds. Blooms in April-May. Medium frost-resistant plant that can withstand 20-degree frosts.
Unusually decorative varieties:
Wisteria Chinese Blue Sapphire (Blue Sapphire) - with stunningly delicate blue-blue flowers; 
Wisteria Chinese Alba (Alba) - a garden form with snow-white flowering; 
Chinese Wisteria Prolific (Prolific) - an early-flowering variety with bluish-purple corollas. Dissolves brushes already in the 2nd or 3rd year after planting. 
Blooming wisteria (Wisteria floribunda) is also known under the synonym of Japanese wisteria.
Pagons grow in length from 9 to 30 m.
The leaves are shiny, pinnately compound, about 10-30 cm long, consist of 9-13 oblong leaflets 2-6 cm in size.
The flower clusters are impressive - with corollas of pink, white, purple or of blue color smell like grapes.
They bloom very early, which is why they freeze slightly in a temperate climate. Velvety brown pods contain 2-3 seeds.
View has about 20 garden forms and varieties awarded by the Royal Horticultural Society of London. Among them:
Black Dragon (Black Dragon) - with blue-violet flowers of an unusual shape; 
Pink Ice (Pink Ice), Rosea, or Honbeni - with pale pink petals covered with a purple sail; 
Issai Perfect - with light lavender flowers; - Macrobotrys or Longissima - with reddish-purple flower racemes 1 m long or longer;
- Praecox or Domino - with purple flowers.
Shrub wisteria (Wisteria frutescens) - among flower growers is called American wisteria.
It differs from its Asian relatives in shorter brushes (only 5-15 cm) of blue-purple two-faced flowers no larger than 2 cm in size, which do not have fragrance.
The crown consists of shiny dark green, pinnately compound leaves 10-30 cm long, which have 9-15 oblong leaflets.
The seeds are large and brown and ripen in smooth pods.
Wisteria macrostachya (Wisteria macrostachya) is a former form of shrubby wisteria, found in the southeastern part of the USA - the state of Kentucky, which was later identified as an independent species.
Differs in larger inflorescences.
In temperate climates, the frost-resistant variety Blue Moon Wisteria, or Blue Moon Wisteria, with graceful lavender-blue tassels, shining with a silvery sheen at dusk, is popular.
Where and how to plant wisteria
Choosing a location for wisteria is considered a very important factor in growing vines.
This is not a plant that you can plant and forget about it. It should be in front of your eyes in order to control its development in time, because powerful pagons can destroy the support and harm the neighboring garden flora.
The soil for wisteria needs to be fertile and moist, and it is advisable to choose a place in a sunny corner of the garden plot, which would be illuminated with bright rays for at least 6 hours a day.
The plant looks very good in front of the entrance to the terrace or next to the porch leading to the house, near the pergola or gazebo.
However, it must be remembered that the horizontal ceilings for the supports supporting the creeper pagons must be made of durable material.
Wisteria shoots look spectacular, draping a bare windowless wall, but there is a caveat here too - with age, heavy lignified shoots can damage drainpipes, and they use any crack in the wall to develop and spread upwards.
Planting wisteria is carried out on well-drained soil, through which water easily seeps.
The right time is spring or autumn.
A hole is dug with a depth commensurate with the root ball, but about 2-3 times wider.
The distance between the supports for the vine should be 3-4.5 m.
The soil selected from the pit is mixed with compost and a little mineral fertilizer with a low nitrogen content is added.
The root system of the plant is placed in the center of the hole so that the base of the stem is flush with the ground or slightly higher - the ground will settle and the seedling will not deepen too much.
Care rules
Care for wisteria consists in the necessary moisturizing and loosening of the near-stem space, top dressing, as well as timely pruning.
Watering and fertilizing
It is necessary to water the plant when the earth around the root neck dries out deeper than 3-5 cm. Wisteria loves moisture, but stagnant water near the root system is undesirable.
Wisteria is fed several times during the growing season, but nitrogen is not included in the top dressing - this is not necessary.
Like all legumes, the plant accumulates nitrogen from the air with nodule bacteria, and excess nitrogen will result in a lack of flowering.
In the spring, compost is added under the plant and the near-stem circle is covered with a 5 cm thick layer of mulch to retain moisture and control weed growth.
Some gardeners fertilize the soil around the plant with bone meal in the spring and a small amount of phosphate in the fall to promote more active flowering.
The need for pruning wisteria
The secret to good flowering vines lies in pruning, as the buds of the plant are formed on new growths of the current year.
The first pruning is done at the end of winter - up to half the length of last year's shoots is removed, leaving only a few buds on them.
If there is a need to create a more compact crown, then cut off in the summer after the end of flowering.
Too intensively growing unbridled shoots are sheared every two weeks until the end of summer.
Pruning wisteria in the fall is not done.
Some gardeners practice removing the lower pagons by anchoring the main stem to form the crown of the wisteria tree.
This method of growing has its advantages - you do not have to spend money on the construction of a structure that acts as a reliable support for heavy pagons.
Preparing for winter
Adult specimens do not need shelter for the winter, and this is problematic for plants that already have significant dimensions.
In temperate latitudes, they try to use frost-resistant wisteria to decorate parks and private households.
However, young seedlings are more affected by temperature drops than mature plants of the same species or variety.
That is why in the first years of life, if possible, their pagons are removed from supports, laid on the ground and covered with fallen leaves or spruce branches.
In the spring, they do not delay in order to remove the shelter, otherwise the wisteria will swell.
Wisteria breeding
Liana is propagated by layering in spring and summer, cuttings and seeds - only in spring.
Experienced specialists in nurseries grow the plant by grafting.
Wisteria from seed
Planting material is sown in greenhouses in late November or early December, or sown directly in open ground in early spring, in March.
The soil mixture for crops is made up of 4 parts of leafy soil and take 1 part of soddy soil and sand.
The seeds are laid out on the surface of the substrate, sprinkled with sand, watered, covered with a film or glass on top and placed in a completely dark place with a constant temperature of 20-25 degrees Celsius.
The first shoots hatch after 20-30 days.
After one or a week and a half, containers with crops are put on a lighted place, but at first they are shaded from sun rays.
When 2 true leaves are formed, the seedlings dive along with a clod of earth to the beds for growing.
They are securely covered for the winter, transplanted to a permanent place not earlier than next spring, or even after another season.
Wisteria grown from seeds do not bloom soon, the longest time during which you have to wait for spectacular flowering is about 15 years, so it is advisable to purchase wisteria seedlings that are grown by vegetative methods.
Wisteria cuttings
The cuttings will fit the remaining after the early spring pruning fragments of annual pagons 15-20 cm long.
For rooting, a substrate is prepared, consisting of 3 parts of soddy soil and taken 1 part of sand, humus and peat soil.
Leaves are removed from the bottom of the cutting, 2-3 pieces are left at the top.
The lowest node from the removed sheets should be at a height of 8-12 mm from a cut made at an angle of 45 degrees.
A hole 5 cm deep is made in the soil mixture and a cutting is placed there, tamping the ground around.
Top cover it with a plastic bag, cut plastic bottle or a glass jar and put in a bright place.
Regularly monitor that the soil mixture does not dry out.
Root formation occurs within 4-8 weeks. Creepers grown by cuttings can delight with beautiful fragrant inflorescences as early as 4-5 years after planting.
Propagation of wisteria by layering
A strong annual shoot is chosen as a layering in the spring and a small oblique incision is made in the middle of its length.
A pot is placed under this place with fertile clay-soddy soil, the shoot is fixed in it with a wire bracket and sprinkled with soil. The top of the pagon is lifted up and tied to a support.
They are regularly moistened throughout the summer, and in the last days of August, a seedling with a fairly well-formed root system is cut off from the mother liana and planted in a permanent place of growth.
It also blooms much earlier than wisteria grown from seeds.
Diseases and pests
Among the pests that plague wisteria are aphids, leafworms, mealybugs, Japanese beetles.
And if it is not so difficult to fight many of them, then the latter are a real disaster for the vine.
Their scientific name is Japanese beetle (Popillia japonica), and they are dangerous because they gnaw passages in lignified pagons of vines that disrupt the supply of water and nutrients to the plant.
The plant is affected by fungal infections caused by the fungi Aplosporella wistariae and Phomatospora wistariae.
It is also susceptible to root rot caused by the fungus Phymatotrichum omnivorum, as a result of the disease, the vine withers and dies.
Phomlosticta wisteriae and Septoria wisteriae were found among other pathogenic organisms.
The soil bacterium Rhizobium radobacter causes abnormal growths or tumors on roots or stems.
Creepers of the genus Wisteria infect two viruses - wisteria mosaics (a variant of the tobacco mosaic virus) and underground clover mosaics.
FAQ
Gardeners are often worried about the problem - why doesn't wisteria bloom? Most common causes and suggested solutions:
- Seedlings grown from seeds may not bloom for more than 10 years. In order to wait before flowering, you should buy rooted cuttings or grafted plants.
- It will take a long time to wait for the formation of inflorescences after a hard rejuvenating pruning of the old vine.
- Overfed with nitrogen, wisteria will bloom either very poorly, or not form buds at all. If you need to feed plants grown in trunk circle creepers, it is better to do this after the wisteria has faded.
- Do not forget that the liana loves the sun very much, in the shade or partial shade it will also be difficult to wait for flowering.
The best partners of wisteria in garden design
At the foot of the wisteria, snow-white tulips and daffodils, dark purple hyacinths, and yellow daffodils look perfect.
From blooming in summer plants in the vicinity of wisteria are planted garden hibiscus
