≡× MENU

• Repair
• Repair
• Interior Design
• About everything
• About plumbing

Cast iron bath stove. You won’t believe what can be made from an old cast-iron bath - a stove, a barbecue and other unusual things. Homemade cast iron garden stove

There comes a time when plumbing, due to its appearance or malfunction, becomes unusable. But, replacing it with a new one, you should not rush to throw it away. Summer residents and home owners can easily make a garden stove from a cast-iron bath, which will not be inferior to factory models in terms of strength and service life.

Advantages of using cast iron

This type of metal is considered to be one of the best furnace materials. Its main advantages include:

1. environmental safety. Does not emit when heated harmful substances.
2. Temperature resistance. An outdoor stove made of bricks can begin to crumble after a few years.
3. High thermal conductivity. A cast iron fireplace warms up a room much faster than one built from other materials.
4. Strength . Cast iron is the leader among metals in terms of strength. Even steel ovens are less reliable.
5. Ease of use.
6. fire safety.

The disadvantages of cast iron that you should pay attention to are brittleness and susceptibility to corrosion. In the first case, unnecessary mechanical influences should be avoided, in the second case, the surface should be treated with special solutions.

A home-made cast iron structure will not turn out very beautiful, so it is recommended to overlay it with brick or stone.

Preparation of materials and tools

To create such a miracle oven from the bath, you need to prepare:

• angle grinder (grinder);
• 2-3 circles for metal with a thickness of at least 1 mm, a diameter of 12.5 cm;
• electric drill;
• drills for metal with a diameter of 9, 11 mm;
• grinding wheels;
• files;
• hammer;
• level;
• construction gun (for applying sealant);
• plumb;
• putty knife;
• Master OK.

Materials you will need:

• iron or steel sheet 5 mm;
• refractory red brick;
• grate;
• sealant;
• clay;
• sand;
• metal corner;
• bolts with nuts, washers;
• chimney pipe with a diameter of 12 cm.

Photo: the material is prepared, it remains to choose the purpose of the furnace and get to work

When all the materials, tools are collected, you can start cutting the container. For convenience, it can be turned upside down or laid on its side.

Users often search:

You need to wield the grinder carefully so as not to damage the surface.

Before you start sawing the bath, it is worth considering a few nuances:

1. Marking will simplify cutting the product.
2. The first layer of enamel is removed strictly along the drawn line. This will help prevent chipping at the edges.
3. The next step is to cut the cast iron. Do this gradually, in small pieces of about 10 cm, so as not to overheat the grinder.
4. When the bath is already sawn in half, supports are placed under each part. They will not allow parts to fall and damage the tool, material.

According to reviews experienced builders, the grinder is better to work at an angle. So the enamel does not start to peel off and all the cuts will turn out to be smooth without burrs.

Subject to the use of a high-quality grinder, the processing of cast iron will take no more than 1 hour.

For a barbecue, you will need two halves of the bath: one part will serve as a fuel loading chamber, the other is necessary for cooking. For a sauna stove or fireplace, one half will be enough.

Step-by-step creation of a furnace from a bath

Without building experience, it is worth consulting with a specialist about all the intricacies of masonry and installation of parts, but it is better to perform work under the supervision of a master. So the product will turn out to be of high quality and standards fire safety will be observed.

As for the construction of the foundation, its type depends on total weight ovens:

• For structures over 700 kg, a monolithic or tape base with a depth of 50 cm or more should be equipped. A formwork is constructed around the perimeter of the pit and covered with a layer of crushed stone or broken brick. Compacted. Filled with concrete.
• For ovens small size quite enough brick foundation. It is recommended to purchase cement grade not lower than M300. Bricks are placed with an edge, fastened together with a solution.

Now consider detailed instructions for the manufacture of each of the furnaces with different purposes.

For a bath

To create in the steam room the necessary conditions, the design must meet the following requirements:

• have a high thermal power;
• regulate convection currents;
• produce enough steam.

The procedure for building a sauna stove:

It is important to note that the foundation must have a protrusion on the borders of the furnace of at least 50 cm, and 1–1.5 m of free space must be left in front of the furnace.

An interesting idea is to make a bath stove from both halves of the bath. The second part will be needed as an extension for heating water, or you can lay out a Russian heater from it.

For cooking

On suburban area not to do without a barbecue or a brazier. And the opportunity to bake delicious bread fry meat on fresh air they force the owners to equip small outdoor stoves on the territory.

Here is a description of how to build a barbecue step by step from the bath.

The sequence of work is as follows:

Some masters leave the barbecue in this state, but in order for your oven to look beautiful, you still need to do exterior finish.

There are several options:

1. Clay whitewashing.
2. Masonry of a whole ceramic tile or its pieces.
3. Surface finish natural stone pre-cut into pieces 10 mm thick.

The materials are attached to the furnace with heat-resistant adhesives.

A good solution is to install the chimney to the stove through the drain hole of the bath, expanding it in advance, and only then weld it to the steel sheet.

For heating

In the country, it is easy to build a fireplace from half a bath. He can be:

• Built into the wall. Suitable if the house has brick walls. Significantly saves free space.
• Reclined (half-open). The firebox is located at a considerable distance from the wall. This fireplace does not need a separate foundation, it is mounted directly into the floor. Has good draft, the built-in ashpit.

The advantage of using a cast-iron bath for the furnace part is that the fireplace is obtained in the form of an arch and eliminates complex brickwork. The hole for the chimney is made at the top of the tub. The outer part is decorated with a fireplace portal.

When building a semi-open fireplace, the following recommendations should be taken into account:

1. A cement mortar up to 15 mm thick is poured under the base.
2. A metal mesh is laid on top.
3. A layer of waterproofing is applied.
4. Asbestos cardboard type insulation is laid.
5. A pedestal under the firebox is being built. Suitable brick, aerated concrete. The binder mixture is cement mortar or heat-resistant glue.
6. The structure is plastered. You can trim it with stone ceramic tiles.
7. Between the lining and the fireplace insert, a gap is left for the convection heating system.
8. The chimney pipe is mounted in the hole made, removed through the ceiling, the roof. Often made in the form of a sleeve.
9. From the inside of the firebox, the chimney is sheathed with heat-insulating non-combustible material.
10. Finishing the bottom of the fireplace.
11. The product is closed from the side and from above with a frame made of duralumin corners connected by self-tapping screws.
12. The frame is sheathed with drywall.
13. Holes are made in the lining for air ventilation.

When installing a chimney, it is important to take into account that with a pipe height of up to 5 m, the deviation angle is 45 0, over 5 m - no more than 20 0.

For waste disposal

An unusual decision to build from old bath waste incinerator.

The principle of its construction is similar to a street barbecue.

Scheme of placement of the furnace on a brick base

The alternative is to remake the old heater by removing all parts except for the grate and body. Part of the cast iron is welded to the base from the inside to strengthen the structure.

In such a fiery trash can, you can load waste directly from above. When burning, the stove should be covered with another part of the bath so that the smoke does not disperse throughout the area.

So do not rush to get rid of things that are out of order or have lost their appearance. IN skillful hands even an old bath will get a second life, it will become a functional stove that will last for many years.

When it's time to replace your bathroom, don't rush to throw it away. A cast-iron bath stove will be a worthy continuation of the life of an old Soviet plumbing element.

Advantages

The material from which the bath is poured deserves special attention. Cast iron has always differed from steel in its ability to retain heat when water procedures. This property has not changed over the years. Due to the good thermal conductivity of the old cast iron bath yu is often used in the construction of the stove.

Cast iron is ideal for building a stove

Cast iron products do not have an expiration date. They are not subject to corrosion, have high strength. Well accumulates and gives off heat. Today industrial enterprises they produce furnaces and grates made of cast iron, because they do not burn through. We're just using old material for new purposes. The only downside to cast iron is its brittleness. This is important to keep in mind when doing any work with this heavy material.

Video "Cast-iron bath furnace"

From this video you will learn how to make a stove from a cast-iron bath with your own hands.

What can be used for

Such material is used in the construction of furnaces for various purposes:

1. For a bath or sauna. In an inverted form, it will perform the function of a firebox (heater).
2. For the garden, two transversely cut halves are used: the lower one is used as a firebox, the upper one is a place for cooking food.
3. For a small room, made in the form of folded two halves, it will be a good fireplace.
4. Barbecue using one half of the tub upside down.

Preparatory stage

To make a furnace from an old bath, you will need the following materials:

• the bath itself
• Red brick;
• cement, sand, clay;
• crushed stone;
• steel sheet with a thickness of at least 4 mm;
• lattice or notch;
• finished door with a frame and hinges for the firebox;
• steel pipe for the chimney;
• formwork boards;
• roofing material or polyethylene for waterproofing.

The cast-iron bath for the furnace needs to be cut in half

Required Tool to perform work:

• shovel, trowel, spatula;
• metalwork tool;
• electric drill with drills;
• grinder with high-quality cutting discs;
• measuring and marking tool;
• mounting gun to work with sealant;
• welding machine.

In preparation for work, it will be necessary to transport old bath to the place of manufacture of the furnace. Considering her big weight and the need to cut in half, it will be more correct to cut before transportation.

Correct cut

The material of the font, which is to be cut in half, is very fragile. Therefore, it is necessary to be very responsible this stage works:

1. Turn the tub upside down and secure it in a stable position.
2. Mark the cutting line taking into account the width of the cutting tool.
3. Slowly, strictly according to the markup, make an incision along the entire line. This will destroy the protective layer of enamel, and when sawing, it will keep the cut end of the cast-iron font from chipping.
4. Carefully, slowly, pausing to cool down the tool and the cast iron being processed, we will cut the bath in half. When carrying out such work, it is important to remember the safety measures: use goggles and a respirator or gauze bandage.

It is desirable to install such a heavy building on monolithic foundation

Technological process

Now that the source material is ready, we define design features erected furnace, installation site, and proceed to construction.

Creation of the foundation and installation of sheets

To build a furnace, the foundation can be made tape by digging a trench around the perimeter future design. But given the large weight of the font and the brick that will be laid out outer part, it would be better to make a monolithic foundation.

Step-by-step instruction:

1. Let's mark the chosen place. The marking borders should be 10-15 cm larger than the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe future structure.
2. We will dig a pit to a depth of 30–40 cm.
3. Let's execute the device of the sand and gravel basis. To do this, evenly cover the bottom with rubble, then sand. Let's wet it all and tamp it down.
4. We will build a formwork around the perimeter of the pit. The height of the future foundation is no more than 30 cm from the ground.
5. Using scrap metal, we reinforce the internal cavity of the pit. We tie with a wire hardware inside the pit.
6. We fill the inner cavity of the pit with concrete. Using the rule with the level, we do upper layer horizontal.
7. Let the foundation dry completely.

Having poured the foundation with concrete, it is necessary to let it dry for several days

While the skeleton freezes, we will pick up required profile partition sheet. Its thickness must be at least 4 mm. The main requirement for a sheet is its straightness. If it has any defects, then it will be impossible to install the top of the furnace evenly.

Attach the sheet to the contour of the upper part of the sawn bathtub and draw it. Cut out the future partition. Mark and cut a hole for the chimney pipe. It is placed opposite drain hole the second half of the font.

After the foundation has solidified, we will prepare a place for installation. To do this, lay out several brick stops that will support side walls baths. We will install the font on the foundation. For the bottom of the oven, you must use the half that does not have a drain hole. If the bath is not very stable, then we will put temporary supports around the perimeter. Let's make them out of timber.

Before installing the sheet, it is necessary to degrease the surfaces that will be in contact. After that, you need to apply sealant to the upper plane of the bath. The sealant used must be heat resistant. The use of other adhesives will call into question the tightness of the connection. It is this surface that will be exposed to high temperatures.

flue pipe

We have already cut a hole in the steel sheet for the chimney. Now let's do the same in the bathroom. Given the high strength and brittleness of cast iron, this work is no less responsible than sawing:

1. Mark the diameter of the future chimney around the drain hole. On a steel sheet, this size corresponded to the diameter of the pipe. In the upper half of the furnace, a hole for the chimney is cut out 1–2 cm larger than the outer diameter of the pipe.
2. Carefully drill holes along the marked line of the circle, pausing to cool the cutting surfaces. Drilling should be done as tightly as possible.
3. Slowly, using quality cutting disc small diameter, connect the holes with slots.
4. We clean the roughness of the cut line with a file.

It is important to cut the hole for the chimney as accurately as possible.

Now weld the pipe to the sheet. The length of the pipe must exceed the design of the complete furnace by at least 1 m. When carrying out welding work, we control the verticality of the future chimney. It is important to remember about safety measures: use a serviceable device, protective clothing and special goggles or welder's shield.

Before installing the second half of the font, degrease the connection planes and apply a heat-resistant sealant. Raise the top half upside down over the chimney and place it in that position on the steel sheet. Align the edges of the lower and upper parts, remove excess sealant with a rag. Let the assembled structure dry.

To create greater rigidity of the structure, we fasten the two halves of the bathtub in adjacent surfaces with bolted joints. Drill holes for bolts carefully, remember the fragility of the material. Treat the gap between the chimney pipe with the hole in the upper half of the furnace with sealant. With a large gap, make a metal sealing ring.

Lattice

Now we install the grate on the bottom of the future furnace. They are made from cast iron or high carbon steel. The surest solution would be to install a cast-iron grate, which will be slightly larger in width than the bottom of the bath. If necessary, adjust the size of the grate so that the grate is installed at a height of 10–15 cm.

by the most best solution for the bottom of the furnace there will be a cast-iron grate

In the case when the size of the grate is less than desired, it is necessary to weld a couple of corners at the desired height and install the grate on them. Welding in the lower part of the furnace it is better to carry out before assembling the entire structure. Therefore, make sure that the grate size is suitable for the grate before installing the sheet on the lower half of the tub.

masonry

In this form, the oven can already perform its functional purpose. But a large amount of heat is transferred through the outer walls and is not used. In addition, the appearance of such a design does not give positive emotions.

Let's start finishing work. Let's start with bricklaying. The brick must be used solid, full-bodied red. Lay out the bottom row with a brick width. Using the terminology of masons - poke. Then, laying bricks around the perimeter, we will make laying in half a brick. Each subsequent row should be shifted in a checkerboard pattern. The mortar used is supplemented with lime to eliminate the possibility of cracks.

If necessary, we will strengthen the rigidity of the furnace internal structure brickwork and remove the temporary supports. When laying the lower front part of the furnace, we fix the prepared door with a frame into the masonry itself.

For greater functionality, the oven must be bricked

Usually there are two such doors: the upper one is for laying firewood, and the lower one is for adjusting the draft. We will finish the masonry at the height of the first half of the bath.

Decor

To keep the heat in the brazier and improve appearance we will finish the upper part of the structure with several layers of sand-clay mixture. This mixture must be prepared in advance. It is best to soak the clay in a tub two weeks before use. Periodically add water and stir. Before use, add sand and a small amount of lime.

Cover the top of the stove metal mesh, firmly fixing it around the edges. We apply the first thick layer of the mixture, and after drying - the final one. The resulting thickness should be 6–8 cm. Let's whitewash the top of the structure.

To increase the possibilities of cooking in the new unit, we cut out a damper from metal. Its size should correspond to the end part of the brazier. The thickness of the damper is made small - 0.5–1 mm. We will weld a handle to the damper and paint, together with the doors of the lower half of the furnace, black refractory paint in several layers. This will give contrast.

Our oven is ready for use. Let's take care of cooking in the fresh air and evaluate the possibilities of its use.

Produced back in Soviet times a cast iron bath is a durable, solid and very heavy product. However, the once white enamel is losing its former luster, and it is unlikely to be restored. It’s a pity to hand over a bathtub by the weight of scrap metal or drag it to a landfill. What else can be done with it? Some owners country cottages and dachas suggest using this cast-iron product with more useful: make a stove from an old bath with your own hands. Agree, this is original and rational. Such an oven will be able to decorate the estate and make it possible to cook delicious dishes.

Required materials and tools

To independently build a stove from a cast-iron bath, you will need to stock up on the necessary tools.

Here is an exhaustive list of them:

• grinder (angular Grinder), as well as discs for it (cleaning and cutting);
• electric drill and a set of drills;
• gas cutting equipment metal elements(if any);
• spanners different sizes, hammer and pliers;
• crowbar and shovel;
• container where the solution will be mixed;
• spatula and trowel;
• measurement tool: building level, plumb line, tape measure, metal corner;
• a welding machine (it will be needed to mount the chimney), as well as electrodes for it and a protective mask;
• hacksaw for woodworking.

The main element of the furnace is a cast-iron bath. However, the stove has a significant weight, so it must have a foundation. For its construction, a certain amount of sand is needed, cement mortar, bricks, as well as clay and water.

Making a cast iron bath stove is much cheaper and more profitable than buying a new one.

In addition, you will need:

• corner (metal);
• metal sheet (4 mm);
• lattice of a certain size;
• the pipe necessary for the manufacture of the chimney (length - from 2 to 3 m, diameter - from 10 to 12.5 cm, wall thickness - from 3 mm);
• hinges for doors;
• Rabitz;
• polyethylene film (necessary for waterproofing the foundation);
• board (thickness - from 2 to 2.5 cm);
• slats (2 by 2 cm);
• nails.

Making a stove from an old bath with your own hands: step by step instructions

So, let's look at how you can independently make a stove from a cast-iron bath.

For country house you can make a furnace from an old cast-iron bath, which in terms of strength and service life will not be inferior to models from the factory

First we build the foundation.

1. Using a cord and stakes, we mark the foundation.
2. We dig a trench, the depth of which should not be less than 50 cm. We put layers of sand and gravel on the bottom, after which we carefully tamp them down.
3. On top of the sand and gravel cushion we put waterproofing layer, typically polyethylene.
4. To raise the base of the foundation, we build a formwork in the center. Usually a common formwork is built, and the pouring is carried out to a height of at least 30 cm.
5. Reinforcement of the free volume is carried out and it is filled with a solution of cement and sand (1 part of cement to 3 parts of sand). You can also fill the volume with brickwork.
6. After pouring the foundation, it must definitely harden.

Now it's time to design the stove itself.

To this end, we perform the following actions:

1. We cut the cast-iron bath across. This must be done carefully, as cast iron is very brittle. If the movements are sloppy, abrupt, you can damage the bath so that it becomes unsuitable for subsequent work.
2. We take half of the cut bath, after which we install it on top, and in such a way that we get a design that looks like a capsule with a cut.
3. Further, a sheet of metal with a thickness of more than 5 mm will be needed for work. For the construction, you will need two halves of the bath and a metal sheet, which is necessary to separate the lower part from the upper (fuel zone from the place where food is cooked).

In the sheet of metal, it is necessary to provide a hole for the chimney, located near the rear wall. The chimney starts from the lower chamber, and then goes through the entire stove.

In order to fix the two halves of the bathtub and the metal sheet with maximum reliability, it is advisable to use fasteners. To prevent smoke from the chamber located on top, a special sealant, which is called a stove, should be used.

The chimney is attached to a metal sheet using welding.

1. We install the blank of the stove on the bricks. To prevent the structure from falling, it is very important to align it. Before starting to weld, it is recommended to heat the cast iron a little (for example, the material will become much more pliable if the firewood is heated in the chamber).
2. In the lower chamber, we close the front part with a metal sheet, making a large diameter hole in it before that (through this hole, firewood will be thrown into the chamber).
3. We make chamber doors for the furnace and for cooking.

Well, a simple and fairly functional stove is ready. It remains only a little: to decorate the structure decoratively, making it a decoration of the yard. The stove can be painted, for example, in a folk style. No one will even think that a cast-iron bath was used to make the product.

Sauna stove from an old bath

A cast iron bath can be the basis of a good kitchen stove. However, it is quite possible to make an excellent sauna stove from it, and with your own hands.

Cast iron is an environmentally friendly material, so when heated, no harmful substances are released.

Building a bathhouse and equipping a stove in it will require certain skills, so it makes sense to consult a professional before construction.

TO sauna stoves there are certain requirements:

• All such ovens must have sufficient power (thermal), they must also have large range its adjustments.
• To change the mode of heat and moisture, the device is equipped with a heat accumulator and a steam generator.
• Furnaces should be able to adjust the convention.

So, from a worn-out cast-iron bath, you can make a simple two-tier sauna stove that meets all the requirements listed above. lower tier stoves - this is one half of the bath, which is facing the wall with a cut, and upwards - with a convex part. The entire structure must be lined with bricks from the outside. The required steam generation is provided thanks to the stones that cover part of the "bath-furnace". Heat accumulation takes place in the upper chamber.

The principle of operation of the stove is quite simple. When passing through a cast-iron bath, the gas warms up the stones, then reaches the opposite side the so-called bread chamber. Then the gas flow makes a “dive” (goes down and immediately up), after which it exits the pipe. A damper is located at the bottom of the furnace to prevent smoke emission.

Cast iron stoves: let's evaluate the benefits

Why is a homemade cast-iron stove (in our case, a cast-iron bath stove) so profitable? Cast iron is one of the best materials for this purpose, however, factory-made cast iron stoves are quite expensive. This material gained popularity due to its strength, although it is fragile. In addition, it is resistant to critically high temperatures and unpretentious in operation.

Modern cast iron stoves are especially popular

Comparing cast iron and brick oven, let's say that the thermal conductivity is much better for the first. And since the temperature in the bath is not constantly maintained, the material should not be sensitive to temperature changes.

IN winter time a bath in a summer cottage is usually not heated, because of which the brick sometimes begins to crumble, while cast iron does not know such problems. As for fire safety, only a new brick oven is absolutely not dangerous. In an old product, sparks can break through cracks.

In order to enhance the aesthetics of a do-it-yourself cast-iron bath stove, it is best to brick it. If some blocks are damaged, they can be easily replaced.

Steel competes with cast iron. In terms of heating rate and strength, steel furnaces are not inferior to cast iron ones, but the service life of the former is significantly shorter. Perhaps the main weak point steel furnaces is their susceptibility to corrosion. In cast iron, this problem is not so pronounced.

Having made a furnace from a cast-iron bath, you will become the owner of a convenient and reliable device that functions perfectly in any conditions. From such a bath you can also make very original fireplace for giving. It is especially suitable for those who are now doing the laying of a country house, since the fireplace, as it were, “sinks” into brick wall, and this makes it possible to use the space with maximum benefit.

Video: Universal miracle stove from a cast-iron bath

Having appreciated all the advantages of cast iron (for example, compared to steel) and the relative ease of making a bath from a cast-iron bath, we note that it is very profitable to make a bath from this material on your own. So, if you want to make a stove from an old bath with your own hands, buy the missing material, pick up the tools and get started!

7131 0 1

Bath stove: 4 stages of creating a cast-iron monster

There are never many stoves in a well-equipped dacha, especially good ones, and it’s a pity to rent an old cast-iron bath for scrap. It was these thoughts that visited me after installing a brand new kvarilovy font in my apartment. And I decided not to get rid of the former massive tank, but to take it to a suburban area and convert it into an efficient furnace design. Next, I will describe how it was.

Stage number 1: preparation of tools and materials

As for transporting the bathtub to the dacha, the most difficult thing was to bring it to the trailer. Cast iron is incredibly heavy and has magical property: Gain mass with every step you take. But somehow, with my comrades, we, nevertheless, put the "behemoth" in the prepared vehicle and I delivered it to the place of further work.

It was only after everyone had suffered as loaders that I had a brilliant idea that it was necessary to cut the font even in the bathroom, because anyway it will need to be done in the future to create a stove. So, on the other hand, the two halves are much more convenient and easier to carry than the entire cast-iron product.

After the delivery of the main "beast", I set about preparing all the other accessories necessary to carry out the planned accessories:

Tools

When working with a cast-iron bath, poured back in Soviet times, I recommend using only high-quality power tools of well-known foreign brands, since cheap Chinese specimens simply cannot withstand such a difficult confrontation and burn out.

materials

In addition to the cast-iron tank itself, I needed:

Stage number 2: cutting a cast-iron font

I just want to warn you that this process very laborious, requiring great patience and care, since during its execution it is possible to break both the instrument and the disc, as a result of which there is a high probability of serious injury to people nearby.

In my performance it looked like this:

1. To start put the tub upside down on the ground for the convenience of further operations;

If you will cut the container while still indoors, be sure to close the walls and furniture polyethylene film or old rags, otherwise cast-iron dust will settle on them, which is almost impossible to remove.

1. Strictly draw a straight line in the middle, marking the place of the incision;

1. Further strictly according to the marked markup carefully cut the enamel layer with a grinder, the depth of which, as a rule, is from 1.5 to 2.5 mm. If you immediately start sawing cast iron itself, then chips will form on the enamel covering it;

1. Now moved on to cutting the font itself and did it slowly, regularly resting the instrument. Believe me, the price of haste here can be very high, the saved 20-30 minutes will not replace your burnt grinder.

Stage number 2: installation work

Now it's time to assemble a real stove from an old do-it-yourself cut bath. I will conditionally divide this part of the work into three phases:

Foundation laying

Above, I already mentioned that the cast-iron font is very, very heavy, and so the structure being constructed will be even harder. Therefore, without a reliable foundation, shrinkage processes will constantly occur, which will lead to deformation of the body, which is absolutely unacceptable. Therefore, I started the assembly by pouring a reliable foundation:

1. I dug a pit with my own hands with a shovel with an area slightly larger than the future furnace, and a depth of 300 mm;

1. Then he covered the bottom with a ten-centimeter layer of sand mixed with rubble;
2. around the perimeter laid out the formwork from the boards;
3. Installed fittings inside;
4. Mixed concrete mortar from gravel, sand and cement in proportions 5:3:1;

1. I filled the prepared recess with the resulting mixture.

In a good way, the foundation should be poured long even before the dismantling of the old bath, as it will take time to set. But for me this moment came out ill-conceived, and therefore there was a break in my activity aimed at making a furnace.

Furnace assembly

As the foundation hardened, I moved on to assembling the two halves of the tub into something more practical and functional:

1. Cut out a sheet of prepared metal, which can completely cover the floor of the font;

1. Made closer to back wall the future design of the hole and welded to it a half-meter piece of the prepared pipe;
2. One of the halves of the tank was installed on the foundation;

1. Then applied a heat-resistant sealant to its edges using a mounting gun, and placed the assembled sheet on top with a part of the mounted chimney;

1. Further took up making a hole for the chimney in the second half of the cast-iron container. Here the work turned out to be more difficult than similar manipulations with a steel sheet, so I will describe them in more detail:

• He applied the markings in accordance with the section of the chimney pipe around the drain. Of course, it needs to be marked first of all where it will take place, it’s just that for greater convenience I initially adjusted all the structural elements so that these points coincided;
• Drilled a lot of holes along the outlined contour;
• Carefully, again, without haste, I cut the remaining jumpers with a grinder;
• The edges of the resulting opening were carefully processed with a file, bringing to the desired state;

1. He applied sealant around the perimeter of the sheet covering the already installed part of the furnace, and, putting the second half of the bath on the pipe, closed the structure with it;
2. The top of the chimney increased to a meter height;
3. The sides protruding along the perimeter, including the steel layer of the intermediate sheet, drilled with a drill drill with a diameter of 10 mm;

1. In the resulting holes threaded the corresponding bolts, and screwed nuts with washers on top of them. Tighten each connection tightly;

1. For the lower combustion chamber picked up the grate so that it fits snugly between the walls, and at the same time there is still 150 mm left to the bottom. If you have problems with an object of a suitable size, then weld metal corners on the sides;

Decoration of the perimeter and facade

In the state that the furnace had after the end of its assembly, it gave off too much heat energy environment, did not look aesthetically pleasing and was a somewhat shaky structure. So I did the following:

1. Mixed mortar of cement and sand using a ratio of one to three. I used a drill for this in tandem with a special nozzle in the form of a whisk;

1. He erected brick walls behind and on the sides of the furnace. Brick has a low thermal conductivity, therefore, now large quantity heat will go up to the dishes being prepared;

1. For the facade, I sawed out curly under the contours of the halves of the font with a grinder metal sheets. Then:

• In the canvas intended for the lower furnace part, I cut out a small hole, just such that the prepared firewood could freely pass into it, and installed a door;
• In the canvas intended for the upper hob, I cut out a kind of crescent, which covered only the edges of the chamber, and from the rest I made two openings in different sides sashes;
• The installation of both products was carried out with the help of corners, a drill and bolts.

Alternatively, the front side can also be up to the level cooking chamber cover with bricks. Only in this case, then it is necessary to install doors for the blower and firebox into the masonry. The upper compartment is then closed simply by a large steel flap with a handle.

Stage number 4: finishing

Here I had two tasks:

• Insulate the furnace structure even more;
• Decorate the building, making it an excellent addition to the country interior.

And I started:

1. Kneaded a solution of clay and sand in a ratio of one to two;

You can also add some lime to the batch. This will reduce the risk of cracking during the hardening of the finishing layer.

1. Fitted the cooking compartment steel mesh , the cell size of which is 20 mm, and fixed its edges on the brickwork using self-tapping screws and plastic dowels. Now the clay plaster applied from above will not slip on a smooth cast-iron surface, but when dried, it will have sufficient strength;
2. By this time, the mixed mixture had reached the desired consistency, and with the help of a spatula I applied the first finishing layer who did not iron;

1. After the clay has set, already done fine finish , then moistened the spatula and carefully leveled the created coating. In total, my lining came out with a thickness of about 70 mm;
2. After curing whitewashed the fur coat, adding to the similarity of the appearance of the structure with ancient stoves.

Also, in the future, I also want to close the brickwork with ceramic tiles, but in order to save money, I don’t want to specifically purchase expensive materials for this. Therefore, I am waiting for the turn of repairs in the bathroom in the country to come up in order to use the ceramics removed from its walls.

Benefits received

It turned out to be quite possible to make a stove from a cast-iron bath with your own hands, but not so easy. Here and excavation, and the construction of brickwork, and cutting cast iron, and welding, and even finishing. Weak set of tasks. But as a result I:

• Gave a second life old stuff that has already served its purpose. There is always some joy in this small victory over time itself, which treats everything in our world mercilessly;

• diluted country interior attractive looking design. Of course, it’s worth, nevertheless, to overlay it with tiles, but even now the created structure has very organically fit into the design of my suburban area;
• Very good saved on materials used. It is much more profitable to have a working solid fuel furnace on the farm than to get a penny for a cast-iron bath in the acceptance of ferrous metal. Yes, and everything else that I still needed to implement my plans, I for the most part found at home;
• Received opportunity for cooking use solid fuel , saving gas and electricity, with the presence of which on some suburban areas and there can be big problems at all;
• I was finally able to cook, requiring the special conditions of a real Russian stove, which the erected structure has now provided me;

• I began to see friends on the threshold of my dacha much more often those who want to taste something tasty with "hot-hot". In addition, they never come empty-handed, as a result, wonderful feasts come out.

Alternative modifications

In fact, these are even more likely not modifications, but, on the contrary, somewhat stripped-down options that the theme can also be very useful in the household. Even more than that, both of them can be implemented from the same vessel:

1. Here, for example, how to make a bath with a cast-iron grill oven? After all, fried meat cooked on an open fire is simply amazing. For this it will be enough:

• Take that half of the bath, which is without a hole, and attach another pair of legs to the cut edge for structural stability;
• Place a grid of suitable size on top. It is not at all necessary to fix it “tightly”, on the contrary, the removable version is more convenient to use and maintain;
• That's it, through the open facade you add firewood or remove coals, put pork, lamb or chicken on top, and heat-intensive cast iron helps to create the temperature necessary for frying;

1. For a bath from a cast-iron tank, you can also make an effective stove:

• Lay the bath upside down so that its main part is in the steam room on a pre-prepared concrete base, and the section went into the next room;
• Inside, you install a grate with the help of corners, and close the facade with a metal sheet equipped with doors for the firebox and blower;
• Mount the chimney pipe with access to the territory of the bath. You can first weld a small horizontal pipe into the front part, and then use the elbow to vertically bring the chimney to the roof;
• In the steam room, build a brick wall around the cast iron tank at a distance of 10 cm and as high as the tank itself;

• The gap between the bricks and the bathroom is filled with stones, which, when heated, will provide the necessary heat.

Conclusion

Do not rush to throw away or scrap an old cast-iron bath, because you can make a wonderful garden stove from it, which will delight you more than once with very tasty and healthy meals, decorate the site and become another reason for your friends to come to visit you. In addition, you can do most of the work with your own hands, help will only be needed during transportation and installation of the upper part of the structure.

The video in this article will offer you a number of additional materials that are directly related to the information presented. If you have any questions on the topic, please ask them in the comments.

August 20, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

Do-it-yourself cast-iron bath stove

Old cast-iron baths are made of durable material that can withstand any load and temperature, so not using it a second time for the benefit of your health is a big mistake. In addition to its strength, cast iron is also an environmentally friendly material, so during heating, you can be sure that no harmful substances are released in the bath.

How to make an oven with your own hands?

Of course, after using the bathroom, she may not be in the best condition, but all its qualities remain at the same level, for example, it still remains strong and durable, so it is quite possible to give it a second life. Naturally, many who have summer cottages use bathtubs such as a water tank, and those who are great at fantasizing can come up with many other interesting things. If you have a bathhouse in your summer cottage, then you can make a stove out of the bath with your own hands, which will be very expensive in the store. To create a furnace, a material such as cast iron is excellent, because it has such advantages as:

Great durability.

Excellent thermal conductivity.

Withstands even the most high temperatures and high indoor humidity.

It is easy to operate and does not require special care.

You can use an old bath for the construction of such types cast iron stoves, as: outdoor, which will be in the garden, as a fireplace for a country house, and, of course, for a bath. Such options can be fully realized with the help of own hands.

Making a stove, how to properly prepare a bath?

It will not be possible to fully use the container, so it will need to be cut. To properly cut, you need to approach this issue with great responsibility. You will have to work with a grinder, you will also need to prepare several discs for metal in advance. Be sure to take care of safety, so put on special glasses, a respirator and gloves. Correctly perform all actions according to the recommendations given below:

1. Before proceeding with sawing, you will need to make calculations and mark up for the future cut.

2. First of all, a layer of enamel is cut, this is done in order to prevent chips along the edges.

3. The cast iron itself is cut into small pieces, while it is worth taking breaks.

4. When half of the bath is sawn, it is necessary to substitute supports under both parts, which will not allow further damage to the tool, and indeed the material itself.

Experts say that cutting is best done at an angle, then the enamel will not exfoliate much.

Rules for making a sauna stove from an old bath

The process of manufacturing a sauna stove is very complicated, because you have to take care not only of quality, but also of safety. The fact is that the stove will be located in the bath building, so there are parameters for installation, for example, it is worth considering the thermal power and its change, the ability to produce steam, as well as the ability to regulate convection flows. As soon as the bath is sawn, you can begin to build a stove in the bath. You will need one half of your cut, but sometimes you can use two parts of the tub.

To properly build such a furnace, you must be guided by the following expert advice:

To make the oven yourself, you first need to prepare the foundation, it is made of concrete mortar, filler is sometimes used, broken brick is excellent for this, which is able to withstand even a large load.

One part of the bath is laid on the foundation, while it is important to make sure that it looks with the curved part up. The cut should be built into the wall with access to another room, where the bath firebox will take place directly. For security and implementation purposes design idea, the hole is closed with brickwork, then a furnace and blower door is installed.

When half of the bath is properly installed, then at a distance of 10 centimeters, walls are also erected from refractory brick, which will be equal to the height of the cast iron container. The space that forms around must be filled with stones, it is they who will warm the room up to desired temperature.

Alternatively, you can build a conventional sauna stove, which will consist of two tiers, while all the heat will go to the upper tier. The principle of operation of such a furnace is based on the passage of gas through the bath, due to which the stones are heated, and then the heat already flows down and returns up again, after which it exits the pipe.

One cannot but agree that the decision to create a bath stove in this way at your dacha from a bath is creative, but it is also considered rational from the point of view extra costs. For construction, it is absolutely not necessary to use any material, except for an old cast-iron bath, you can also make a stove yourself without involving specialists from the outside, of course, this option should be considered if you have at least some experience in building baths. It is important to note that another advantage is the durability of this equipment, because cast iron is a durable material that can withstand high temperatures and moisture, which means that you can enjoy a hot bath for a long time. In addition to saving Money, you also get a durable oven, which is hard to find on construction markets, because most of the materials today do not match the quality.