home > Floor repair > How to weld a stove from a gas cylinder. Jet furnace from a gas cylinder. Upper burning stove "Bubafonya"

How to weld a stove from a gas cylinder. Jet furnace from a gas cylinder. Upper burning stove "Bubafonya"

It is clear that a gas cylinder will go for the hull. But they are different sizes. The smallest ones of 5 liters should not be used for the manufacture of furnaces: the volumes are too small and it cannot heat anything. There are also cylinders for 12 and 27 liters. They will make a low-power unit for a very small room: more than 3 and 7 kilowatts of heat cannot be obtained from them. In principle, this can be a hiking option, but the weight will turn out to be solid.

The best option for a stationary potbelly stove in a garage or in the country - a gas cylinder of 50 liters. Height 850 mm, diameter - 300 mm. The volume and wall thickness are large enough to burn any fuel. At the same time, it is not very heavy, you can work with it alone. A potbelly stove made from a 50 liter propane tank is the best option.

Industrial 40-liter gas tanks have about the same volume, the diameter is smaller - 250 mm, the height is greater, and the walls are thicker. A stove from a freon cylinder, with the same power that can be obtained from it, will be more difficult to make: the mass is large, and it is long. By shortening the height to about 700 mm, you can make a small thick-walled potbelly stove, which will warm up a little longer, but it will also be a little better to “keep” the heat.

How to safely disassemble a gas cylinder: see safety precautions in this video.

A potbelly stove made from a gas (mainly propane) cylinder has two fundamentally different types: vertical and horizontal. Although the manufacturing process does not limit the imagination of the designer. Combined options are not excluded.

Horizontal version Vertical version Combined version

In such a potbelly stove, solid fuels are used: firewood, coal, fuel briquettes.

The advantages of such a stove include the following:

good thermal conductivity due to the thickness of the metal of the cylinder wall (4 mm);
optimal size/efficiency ratio;
when vertical execution takes up very little space in the room;
ease of manufacture and availability of the necessary materials;
the possibility of equipping such a stove with a sheet of metal for heating and cooking.

The disadvantages of such a potbelly stove:

use only solid fuel;
with a vertical design, it is necessary to adjust the firewood to the optimal size;

As you can see, the advantages of such a stove are definitely more.

After preparing the tool and materials, you can begin to manufacture the furnace.

The manufacture of a vertical-type potbelly stove includes the following steps:

On the prepared cylinder, the future openings of the furnace and ash pan chambers are marked. The distance between these cutouts should be 80–100 mm;
We mark the balloon

With the help of a grinder, holes are cut according to the markup. The cut segments do not need to be thrown away, doors will be made from them.

Make cuts, but do not throw away the remaining parts after work

The cut out segments are attached to the cylinder on loops by welding. A grate from a reinforcement bar is welded inside the cylinder.

Potbelly stove door mounting option

The final stage. A chimney pipe is welded into the upper part of the cylinder. A chimney pipe is connected to this pipe at the installation site of the furnace.

Carry out welding work carefully or entrust it to a professional

Potbelly stove from a gas cylinder assembled.

The finished product must be checked for correct functioning!

The process of making a potbelly stove from the above-described container begins with the preliminary preparation of the corresponding cylinder:

First you need to get rid of the remaining gas. Just open the valve completely.
After the end of hissing (for complete certainty), the gas cylinder can be slightly heated on a fire or stove.
To eliminate a specific "fragrant" additive to propane - a mercaptan fragrance (odorant), it is necessary to completely (to the very "shoulders") fill the container with bleach, which contains acids. It might even be Persol.
Then wait a bit and pour.
After that, soak the insides with a solution of table soda (10%).

How to make a potbelly stove: device and diagrams

Such a potbelly stove from a gas cylinder on wood or on a working out can be made in short time. Indeed, for the construction, you can use almost any of the gas cylinders that you or your neighbors have. A potbelly stove for a garage or apartment can be made from almost any cylindrical metal object. For example, from a can, pan, barrel, bucket, pipe or shell from the time of the war.

But the best thing for its manufacture is an ordinary gas cylinder. This is the most common and easily accessible container made of thick, high-quality metal today. Thickness is important, because a thin wall will quickly burn out, and the oven will have to be thrown out.

For small areas of utility or industrial purpose it is more expedient to use a potbelly stove as heating than to equip such premises with a stationary heating system with expensive communications and a boiler. A do-it-yourself potbelly stove from a gas cylinder holds the palm in popularity among similar units, especially in garages of motorists.

Potbelly stove from a gas cylinder: advantages and disadvantages

A potbelly stove made from a gas (mainly propane) cylinder has two fundamentally different types: vertical and horizontal. Although the manufacturing process does not limit the imagination of the designer. Combined options are not excluded.

Examples of homemade products in the photo

Horizontal version Vertical version Combined version

In such a potbelly stove, solid fuels are used: firewood, coal, fuel briquettes.

The advantages of such a stove include the following:

good thermal conductivity due to the thickness of the metal of the cylinder wall (4 mm);
optimal size/efficiency ratio;
when vertical execution takes up very little space in the room;
ease of manufacture and availability of the necessary materials;
the possibility of equipping such a stove with a sheet of metal for heating and cooking.

The disadvantages of such a potbelly stove:

use only solid fuel;
with a vertical design, it is necessary to adjust the firewood to the optimal size;

As you can see, the advantages of such a stove are definitely more.

The design of the stove and its principle of operation

Like any solid fuel stove, a potbelly stove from a gas cylinder has two main structural compartments: a firebox and an ash pan (blower).

In the firebox there is a working process - the combustion of fuel. The ash pan is located under the furnace, is directly connected to it through the grate and serves to remove non-volatile combustion products from the furnace.

During combustion, combustion products are formed. The volatiles are eliminated through the chimney under the action of natural draft, and the free-flowing through the holes in the grate into the ash pan. The subsequent removal of bulk combustion products from the ash pan is carried out manually using a poker or spatula.

And also the ash pan serves to supply air to the combustion chamber (furnace). Therefore, it should be cleaned in a timely manner. Without a normal air supply, the combustion efficiency of the fuel is significantly reduced.

Heat from the potbelly stove comes into the room directly from the hot walls of the furnace.

For the manufacture of an optimally efficient potbelly stove, an all-metal cylinder with a volume of 50 liters is suitable.

The 50 liter gas cylinder has standard dimensions: diameter 300 mm and height 850 mm. The metal wall thickness is 4 mm, which is optimal for solid fuel combustion processes.

Finding such a balloon is usually not difficult. They are often used in the economy and industry.

To equip such a furnace with a chimney, a pipe with a diameter of 100–125 mm and a thickness of at least 3 mm is used to make a chimney pipe. The chimney itself should be placed vertically, but deviation from the axis is also allowed (a slope of not more than 30 degrees). The slope is made for greater efficiency of heat transfer from the chimney pipe. Although the location of the pipe directly depends on the local conditions for installing the potbelly stove.

For ease of use, the compartments of the furnace and ash pan are equipped with doors with a locking mechanism. When the doors are closed, the combustion process improves and the risk of fire hazardous particles falling into the room is reduced. And also by adjusting the gap with the ash pan door, you can adjust the intensity of air supply to the furnace.

Doors are made in any shape. The main thing to consider standard size firewood and the convenience of loading them.

An important detail of the potbelly stove is the grate. The grate serves to support fuel (firewood) and at the same time helps to separate loose combustion products. The combustion process takes place on the grate. Therefore, the metal from which the grate is made must be strong enough and resistant to high temperatures. It is better to make a grate from reinforcement bars with a diameter of at least 12 mm. Such rods are cut according to the dimensions of the inner part of the cylinder (width) and assembled into a lattice with a gap width of 10–15 mm. The rods are connected by welding.

Estimated assembly diagram solid fuel potbelly stove of horizontal execution is applicable to a gas cylinder.

Necessary materials and tools

Naturally, for the manufacture of such a potbelly stove, you will need a gas (propane) cylinder. And you will also need a metal pipe for making a chimney, a reinforcement bar for a grate, a corner or a channel for making legs, metal hinges for the firebox and ash pan doors, as well as sheet metal with a thickness of at least 3 mm for making an ash pan placed outside the cylinder body (removal is optional but preferred).

And you will also need consumables: cutting and grinding (one grinding is enough) wheels for a grinder, 3 mm electrodes (one package). If it is planned to paint the product with heat-resistant paint, then you will need a metal brush to prepare the surfaces of the furnace.

Required tool:

metalwork tool (open-end wrench for unscrewing the cylinder valve, hammer, chisel, file, clamp, etc.);
grinder for cutting holes in the cylinder and other work;
welding machine;
measuring tool (ruler, tape measure, square, level);

The grinder should be used very carefully. Be sure to use safety glasses. In no case do not remove the protective cover from the angle grinder. Observe the requirements for safe operation specified in the instruction manual.

Preparatory work before assembling the furnace

Preparatory work includes a very important stage - the removal of gas residues from the cylinder. This stage should be considered in detail, since without its correct implementation, further work is extremely dangerous.

First of all, it is necessary to unscrew the cylinder valve to remove the gas under residual pressure in the cylinder. The valve is completely dismantled from the body. After removing the gas, the cylinder is inverted to remove condensate.

By turning the balloon over, we eliminate moisture in a natural way. It is better to collect condensate in a disposable waste container. The condensate often has a specific bad smell. Therefore, it is better to immediately throw away the container with the collected condensate.

Next, the balloon is turned over again - set in a vertical position. For complete cleaning of gas residues, water must be drawn into it. Water drawn up to the edges of the cylinder will completely displace the remaining gas from it. After that, the cylinder is emptied of water and it is considered suitable for cutting.

For greater clarity, a video of preparing the cylinder for cutting is given.

Video taken from Youtube. It is used for informational purposes only and is not an advertisement.

Preparing a gas cylinder for safe processing with a power tool: video

The preparation of a tool (power tool) includes its inspection for damage, determining the degree of its suitability for safe operation.

Making a potbelly stove from a gas (propane) cylinder with your own hands

After preparing the tool and materials, you can begin to manufacture the furnace.

The manufacture of a vertical-type potbelly stove includes the following steps:

On the prepared cylinder, the future openings of the furnace and ash pan chambers are marked. The distance between these cutouts should be 80–100 mm;
We mark the balloon

With the help of a grinder, holes are cut according to the markup. The cut segments do not need to be thrown away, doors will be made from them.

Make cuts, but do not throw away the remaining parts after work

The cut out segments are attached to the cylinder on loops by welding. A grate from a reinforcement bar is welded inside the cylinder.

Potbelly stove door mounting option

The final stage. A chimney pipe is welded into the upper part of the cylinder. A chimney pipe is connected to this pipe at the installation site of the furnace.

The finished product must be checked for correct functioning!

Features of operation, cleaning and repair

To increase the efficiency of the potbelly stove, there are several recommendations:

The potbelly stove should be installed at a height of at least 20 cm from the floor. So the heat coming from the potbelly stove is better distributed.
The burning rate of the fuel can be adjusted by installing a damper in the chimney pipe. The damper regulates the air flow, which creates natural draft in the firebox.
To improve heat transfer along the body of the potbelly stove, you can weld plates of sheet metal. This creates a kind of radiator. The plates are welded at a distance of 4-7 mm from each other.
To give the potbelly stove an aesthetic appearance, it can be painted with heat-resistant paint.
It is necessary to install a potbelly stove on a non-combustible base (metal sheet, concrete block). This is necessary to reduce the risk of fire from spilled smoldering particles.

There is advice on improving the process of heating a room by directing a fan to a potbelly stove. Thus, air circulation increases, and hence the rate of heating the room.

The ash pan compartment should be promptly cleaned of ash and solid particles. Waste is removed manually, so you should be careful.

It is also necessary to clean the chimney from combustion products. This can be done once a year, before the start of the heating season. For more quality work the chimney can be insulated.

The main repair process for a potbelly stove is metal welding. The burned-out places of the firebox are brewed using prepared metal linings.

It is necessary to monitor the tightness of the welding seams of the chimney pipe and the chimney itself. Leaks can lead to a decrease in draft, as well as to entry into the room harmful products burning.

Making a potbelly stove from a gas cylinder is a job that everyone can do. Simplicity of design and operation make such a potbelly stove indispensable assistant during the cold season.

Gone are the days when a potbelly stove was used for heating residential premises and cottages. Today, only garages and utility rooms are heated with such devices.

The best option for DIY

The main disadvantage of the classic potbelly stove is its low efficiency, which is expressed in significant fuel consumption and rapid cooling after it burns out. Therefore, its converted versions are currently being used. One of the most popular ways to make a gas bottle oven is to use an old gas bottle for this. Its dimensions are different: miniature models of 5 liters in this case are unlikely to fit, since the stove will have limited heating capabilities.

As for cylinders of 12 and 27 liters, the power of the heater made from them is enough to service small areas. Such devices are able to give out no more than 2-7 kW of heat: they are sometimes used as camping stoves. To make a stationary potbelly stove from a gas cylinder for a garage or a summer house, it is recommended to use containers of 50 liters, 85 cm high and 30 cm in diameter. The wall thickness here is quite enough to load any fuel. At the same time, the weight of the cylinder allows you to work with it alone.

There is also an option with industrial gas tanks of 40 liters: with approximately the same volume, they have a smaller diameter (25 cm), greater height and thicker walls. It is much more difficult to operate a freon cylinder - it is both longer and heavier than a household 50-liter container. With the appropriate equipment, it can be shortened to 70 cm: a potbelly stove made in this way will have thicker walls. As a result, it will take more time and fuel to heat it up, but the stove will also take much longer to cool down.

Making doors for a potbelly stove from a gas cylinder

There are several options for arranging oven doors from a gas cylinder:

Cast type finished products. Ready-made modular structures are available for sale, consisting of a blower and flow door. To embed such a module in a home-made stove, it is necessary to cut a niche of the appropriate size in the cylinder body, equipping it with a frame of welded corners. The cast structure is bolted to the frame. The sealing of the cutout under the door is carried out using a small rim (metal strip 10-20 mm wide), welded on the entire length of the body.
Homemade construction. To save money, instead of a purchased door, they sometimes use homemade design made from a cut piece of wall. In this case, the presence of loops is also required. The simplest option- buy ready-made canopies, and weld them on the surface of the furnace from a gas cylinder with your own hands. Craftsmen make homemade loops using thick chain links for this.

Getting started on making a stove from a gas cylinder with your own hands, it is important to take care of safety. A combustible substance may remain inside the old product in a liquid or gaseous state: therefore, before cutting or cooking a metal container, remove the gearbox and completely bleed off the remaining gas. For fidelity, it is recommended to fill the inside of the balloon with water, and let it stand for a month.

Do I need a grate for the oven

The simplest do-it-yourself drawings of a gas cylinder furnace do not contain a grate. First of all, this is typical for small vertical potbelly stoves, inside which there is too little space for additional compartments. This version of the stove consists of a body with legs, one door and an upper pipe for switching the chimney. To increase the level of heat transfer of the device, its walls with outer side are additionally equipped with welded steel strips. The upper part, in addition to the chimney, has another cutout: if you install a lid on it, you get a convenient tile for cooking and heating water.

In cases where a grate is necessary, a horizontally located cylinder at the bottom is supplemented with a tray for accumulating ash. Vertical stove models from a long-burning gas cylinder are more convenient for installing a grate, since there is much more space in them. To do this, a grid of thick reinforcing bars is placed in the tank itself: finished cast iron products the right sizes practically do not occur. The disadvantages of such structures are their rapid burnout and the complexity of repair: for this, it is necessary to cut out the old reinforcement and weld a new one. A more convenient option is to weld fragments of a thick corner or fittings inside the furnace from a propane cylinder as a stand: a separately welded grate is subsequently mounted on it.

Ways to improve the heat transfer of the stove from a propane cylinder

As mentioned above, the main disadvantage of a gas cylinder garage stove is its poor thermal efficiency, because. a significant part of the heat received during combustion simply goes outside through the chimney along with the gases.

Improve heat dissipation homemade stove can be done in several ways:

Apply afterburn flue gases . In this case, the design of the potbelly stove will resemble the “bubafonya” or “slobozhanka” oven. This will make it possible to increase the efficiency of the device by an order of magnitude.
Extend the chimney. At the same time, part of the heat that goes outside remains inside the room. To do this, the pipe is given a broken configuration, without horizontal sections and negative angles.
Use a smoke outlet. On a horizontally located body of the stove from a gas cylinder on wood, another cylinder is welded into vertical position: it will act as a smoke outlet. Improving the heat transfer of the stove here is achieved by increasing the area of the heating surface. A prerequisite for avoiding smoke entering the room is good draft.
Arrangement of the heater. This technique is widely used in baths, where quarrystone is used for additional heat storage. metal chimney equipped with a grid, into which stones are poured to take heat from the pipe and transfer it to the room. At the same time, it will take some time for the stones to heat up: before that, the air will heat up with some slowdown. But in the future, the surface of the pipe will not burn, and the heated stones will evenly heat the surrounding space. Even after the firewood burns out, the accumulated heat will maintain a comfortable temperature in the room for some time.

When choosing stones for backfilling, it is recommended to give preference to round river samples: it is desirable that they have a uniform color without any inclusions. Other types of stones can even be dangerous, bursting when heated, or releasing harmful substances.

Options for increasing the rate of heating the room

In order to quickly raise the temperature in the room where the stove is installed from a propane cylinder, you can use the following devices:

conventional fan. It is mounted in such a way that the forced air blows over the body and chimney. Craftsmen often go further, equipping the upper part of the cylinder body with through pipes, welding them into pre-shaped holes. On one side of the improvised channels, a heat-resistant type fan is installed, capable of maintaining several speed modes: this makes it possible to regulate the temperature of the air leaving the pipes.
Air vents in the chassis. In this case, additional activation of air flows is carried out without the use of a fan. To achieve this, a wood-burning gas cylinder stove is additionally “dressed” in a special case, in the surface of which there is a series of holes in the upper and lower regions. Through the lower gaps, cold air is sucked in, which usually accumulates in the floor area. Blowing the hot case, the air flows gradually heat up and exit through the upper slots into the surrounding space. Approximately the same principle of operation is used in Buleryan stoves and heaters for saunas.

A simple water heating boiler can be made from a gas cylinder. To do this, a water jacket is arranged around the finished pyrolysis furnace from a gas cylinder: from it, the heated coolant is fed through pipes into the batteries. Such a system must necessarily have an expansion tank installed above the potbelly stove and radiators. Thanks to it, jumps in the internal pressure in the heating circuit due to the expansion of the heating water are compensated. Because we are talking about a primitive boiler without any adjustment, cases of boiling water inside the system will occur quite often. The volume of the expansion tank is at least 10% of the total displacement.

Making a potbelly stove from a gas cylinder with your own hands is not a very complicated procedure. During the operation of the finished device, one should take into account the fact that the temperature of its case can reach significant levels: this imposes additional requirements on fire safety heated room.

The stove from the gas cylinder will be more economical and more efficient than its equal in complexity of manufacturing from other improvised materials. The very shape of the gas cylinder will help. The quality of the furnace is largely determined by its furnace. Ideal in all respects, the firebox is spherical. Considering that the furnace must have at least 2 openings - an inlet, for loading fuel and air supply, and an outlet, for exiting exhaust gases into the chimney, the optimal shape of the furnace is not a very long and narrow cylinder with rounded ends, but such a cylinder is. Its shape is chosen based on the need to keep more pressure when minimum flow metal, but the result is the same.

What oven can be made from a cylinder?

Since the shape of the furnace is optimized on the most general grounds, then furnaces from cylinders can be very different - from fiery combustion to sophisticated designs, from which even an experienced heat engineer, as they say, turns their eyes back. This article discusses several furnaces, built in ascending order of manufacturing complexity; their purpose is also taken into account:

for residential premises.
Heating for non-residential premises.
Summer cooking.
Universal small-sized portable emergency; oven just in case.

The need to minimize the cost of Additional materials and the ability to make a do-it-yourself oven without complex tools and / or technological operations. Of course, a prerequisite is sufficient convenience and safety of use. Unfortunately, recommendations on the legalization of home-made stoves cannot be given: fire rules for them are very strict. Here everyone needs to resolve the issue on the spot, as anyone can. Or not to decide at all: building furnaces yourself is not prohibited anywhere, but possible consequences will fully fall on the author / owner.

Note: the requirement of maximum simplicity and cheapness does not apply to the rocket furnace described at the end. However, this stove not only heats a large room on twigs, but also allows you to get a real warm couch at home without building a brick stove. And the cost of materials and labor for it is required several times less.

Which balloon to look for?

First of all: for the furnace you need an all-metal cylinder. Composite explosion-proof are unsuitable, they are not heat-resistant. A 5-liter household cylinder (pos. 1 in the figure) is definitely not suitable for the main part of the stove: it is too small. The ratio of its surface to volume will give such own heat losses that it will not work to burn any fuel completely. To make additional thermal insulation - the game is not worth the candle. The complexity of the work, the cost of materials, the dimensions and weight of the furnace will increase so much that all the work loses its meaning.

Note: only possible application 5-liter cylinder - a tank for a fuel stove on liquid fuel. Two of these will be discussed below.

12 and 27-liter cylinders (pos. 2 and 3) allow you to make a stove just in case, which can also be stored in the pantry of a city apartment. With a 12-liter oven, a heat output of 2-3 kW can be removed, and with a 27-liter - 5-7 kW.

The best blank for the furnace is the most common 50-liter propane cylinder with a diameter of 300 mm and a height of 850 mm (item 4). Its volume is already sufficient for the efficient combustion of any fuel by any known method, and its weight and dimensions do not complicate the work. In addition, there are many such cylinders in everyday life that are still quite serviceable, but have exhausted their resource according to specifications; they can be bought cheaply. Most of the furnaces described below are made from such cylinders.

Note: if there is a choice, a cylinder with a valve should be used, not a valve. From the valve, an excellent power regulator of the furnace is obtained by supplying air (air throttle).

As for the common 40-liter cylinders for industrial gases (pos. 5) with a caliber of 240 mm, they are not suitable for the furnace: although the walls are made of thick durable metal and will ensure the durability of the furnace, but the cylinders themselves are too narrow, heavy and bulky. A good powerful oven, up to 100 kW or more, could be made from a 12- or 18-inch professional cylinder, but they are rare, expensive, and not every healthy man can shoulder such an empty one.

From small 2-10 liter industrial cylinders, in principle, it would be possible to make camp stoves, but again - the metal is thick, durable, it is difficult to work with it, and the stove itself will come out too heavy. There are, however, in the population of small special balloons some exotic individuals, from which excellent ones are obtained; later we will talk about them.

From simple to complex: balloon potbelly stove

You probably guessed even earlier that the simplest home-made stove from a gas cylinder is emergency backup, 12 or 27 liters. You can put a 50-liter stove on it, but such a stove will no longer fit in the city pantry. A balloon potbelly stove will not be able to regularly heat several generations: the relatively thin metal of the household cylinder body will burn out. But it is quite possible to heat a shed with it from time to time or hold out on it until it is warm.

The design is extremely simple, see fig. Of the purchased units, only a furnace door or a monoblock from a furnace / blower is needed. Here, the theoretically optimal form of a plump, curvy cylinder works to the maximum: a balloon potbelly stove does not need a grate with an ash pan, all sorts of internal partitions. One thing that is necessary, like any potbelly stove, for good heat transfer is a horizontal chimney elbow made of a metal pipe with a length of 2-2.5 m.

Note: the diameter of the chimney of a 12-liter potbelly stove is 60 mm, 27-liter 80 mm, 50-liter 100-120 mm.

balloon cooking

Gas cylinders make good grills,. They also burn fuel, but these are no longer stoves, but culinary technological equipment, and quite a lot has been written about it. Therefore, we will no longer expand on gas-balloon cooking. However, those who are interested, as they say, without departing from the cash register, to learn how to make a brazier-barbecue from a balloon, can watch the video:

About pyrolysis

All of the following cylinder furnace designs use pyrolysis to varying degrees - decomposition under the influence of high temperature heavy organic compounds into light, volatile and combustible. Pyrolysis allows you to burn everything that, in principle, can burn, completely - to carbon dioxide and water vapor. It is hardly possible to build a furnace with an efficiency of more than 70% without pyrolysis.

One of the main parameters of the pyrolysis process that must be taken into account when developing a furnace is the degree of its complexity. Simply put, this is the number of thermochemical reactions necessary to break the original complex and heavy molecules into capable of burning to the end.

Pyrolysis of heavy combustible liquids (eg used motor oil) occurs, as a rule, in 2-3 stages. Wood fuel decomposes into easily combustible gases already in many stages, and its complete pyrolysis takes 5-6 times more time than in a liquid fuel furnace.

Since the exhaust gases move from the combustion source to the chimney under the action of draft, pyrolysis ends at a certain distance from the furnace. For oil furnaces, it is insignificant, about 10-15 cm, and in them pyrolysis can be combined in space with afterburning of pyrolysis gases. This condition is also true for coal-fired ovens; the volatile components of coal are released and decompose easily.

For the full pyrolysis of wood fuel, the length of the gas-flame path is already about 1 m, and in its space it is necessary to distinguish, physically or implicitly, 3 zones (chambers): the furnace itself (gasifier), where the fuel burns and primary pyrolysis gases are released, the secondary gasifier (reactor ) with a supply of secondary air (secondary), where the pyrolysis is completely completed, and an afterburner, also with a secondary supply, where light gases are completely burned. These conditions must be taken into account when designing a wood-burning stove.

Oil garage

The next in complexity, cost and labor intensity is from a balloon. This product is in great demand: you can heat a garage with such a stove for nothing, but there is no large-scale production, firefighters forbid it. Let us briefly recall the principle of its operation.

Oil is quietly burning in the fuel tank, air is supplied here in a dosed manner using an air throttle. Here, the heat of its combustion goes mainly to evaporation. The vapors rise into the vertical gasification column, or reactor. The walls of the reactor are perforated; outdoor air because the pressure in the entire tract of the furnace due to the draft of the chimney is below atmospheric.

The influx of air sharply increases the combustion of oil vapor, the temperature rises and pyrolysis begins. The products of pyrolysis also begin to burn, due to which the temperature rises even more; in the middle part of the reactor, it can reach 1300 degrees. At this temperature, nitrogen oxides are formed in a noticeable amount. Nitrogen oxidation is an endothermic reaction, it consumes a significant part of the fuel energy. However, nitrogen oxidation in this case useful: it protects the oven from overheating and explosion; the rate of formation of nitrogen oxides increases sharply with increasing temperature, according to a power law.

In the upper part of the reactor, the pyrolysis gases have almost burned out and there is a large excess of air. For complete afterburning in the column, it would be required to make it several meters high and deaf, without perforation, but then nitrogen oxides would skip the peak of their temperature instability and carry away a significant fraction of the fuel energy into the pipe. To avoid this, the gases from the reactor are released into the afterburner or afterburner.

The afterburner is divided approximately in half by an incomplete partition. Directly in front of it, pyrolysis gases burn out, maintaining a temperature that excludes the stabilization of nitrogen oxides. Behind the partition, all the oxygen in the air is already used up, but the temperature here is even higher than 700 degrees. Now nitrogen oxides decompose with the release of energy back into nitrogen and oxygen, which goes to the afterburning of the remains of pyrolysis gases; the energy release of these 2 processes maintains an approximately constant temperature in the afterburner.

The exit to the chimney from the afterburner is located away from the partition, but it is enough to take it 15-20 cm away from it: thermochemical reactions in oil gases proceed quickly. Already completely burnt gases with a temperature of about 400 degrees go into the chimney, which ensures the efficiency of the furnace up to 80% and above.

Usually, a propane 50-liter tank is used for furnaces for working out from cylinders, sawing it in a ratio of 2: 1, a third goes to the tank, and 2/3 to the afterburner, pos. 1 in fig. Up to 30 kW of heat can be removed from such a furnace, but there are plenty of emergencies with a severe outcome from them.

However, in the magazine "Behind the Rulem" the design of a garage furnace for working out with a power of 5-7 kW with a reservoir of a 5-liter cylinder was published quite a long time ago. With such a low power, it was possible to combine the reactor with the afterburner into a single fully functional column:

In the lower cone of the column, the gases expand and the temperature drops to a value sufficient for pyrolysis, but almost eliminating the oxidation of nitrogen.
The perforation of the column is rare and the air flow through it with a slight excess.
In the upper cone, the gases are again delayed for a time sufficient for complete combustion at a power of up to about 8 kW.

Nitrogen oxides are nevertheless formed in this furnace, but in an insignificant amount, providing only automatic adjustment of the furnace mode. Operational power adjustment is provided by a rotary valve on the filler neck, which is also an air throttle.

This furnace can be significantly improved if there is a 10 or 12 liter industrial bottle with a caliber of 150 mm and a height of 800/900 mm. In these most often they sell helium for inflating balloons. The profitability of the balloon business reaches 400%, but it is most often carried out on temporary promotions, and the shelf life of a helium-filled cylinder is limited and short: helium is the second fastest diffusion record after hydrogen. Therefore, quite serviceable helium cylinders are often sold on the cheap.

Note: we do not recommend trying to do business with helium alone. All over the world, the floral and festive mafia firmly laid its paw on him, which, they say, even Cosa Nostra bypasses.

The design of the "helium-propane" 2-cylinder furnace for mining is shown in pos. 4. The thick walls of the cylinder distribute heat more evenly along its height, and the dome at the top and narrow, 60-80 mm, the exit to the chimney trap gases more efficiently than the cone. Therefore, the perforation of the column and, accordingly, the air inflow can be increased by obtaining a power of 10-12 kW. The maximum filling of 3.5 liters is enough for 3-4 hours of operation at full power.

At the same time, you can improve the fuel-air system. A standard cylinder valve is perfect for the throttle, it only needs to be built up from the inside with a thin-walled steel tube, pos. 4a. You can simply screw it, as much force as you can, onto the part of the fitting protruding inward: the fitting thread on it is tapered, so it will grab it tightly.

It is better to make the filling fitting retractable sliding in the neck, pos. 4b. Through the extended fitting, the furnace is ignited and the fuel level is controlled. And it is relatively safe to add oil to the retracted one while the furnace is running.

If the stove is constantly heated, then it is still advisable to remember the sappers, for whom the most dangerous is not the first, but some N-th mine. You can be completely guaranteed against an emergency with a stove by arranging the fuel supply from a separate feed tank or just a feeder, pos. 5. The height of the feeder must not exceed the maximum allowable level of fuel in the tank (for a 5-liter tank, this is approximately 2/3 of its height), and the feeder must be moved at least 0.5 m from the furnace. So you can control the fuel level and refuel the stove as you like. In addition, the volume of the feeder can be any, only its height is limited, so it is quite possible to adapt a tank with refueling for a day or more under it.

"Long" stoves

In this case, this metaphor does not mean stoves from recumbent industrial bottles, but from ordinary 50-liter wood-burning stoves. In the long burning mode, the wood undergoes pyrolysis, which greatly increases the efficiency and duration of the heat transfer of the stoves. The fuel in them (from dry sawdust and weeds to fragments of antique furniture) burns in a thin layer from the surface, so "long" stoves are sometimes called surface burning stoves.

Pyrolysis can occur either in a physically limited separate volume with subsequent burning of pyrolysis gases in an afterburner (these are separate combustion furnaces), or pyrogases immediately escape into a large, well-heated buffer chamber, where pyrolysis is completed and pyrogases are burned, these are combined combustion furnaces. To ensure high efficiency of both, it is highly desirable to heat the air entering the pyrolysis zone.

Bubafonya

An example of a long-burning furnace with separate combustion is the well-known. In it, pyrolysis is concentrated under the yoke - "pancake". The bubafoni device diagram is shown in fig. on right; as the fuel burns, the air duct with the pancake goes down. A lot has already been written about the principles of operation and features of making bubafon, so we note only the following:

The efficiency of homemade bubafoni can exceed 85%, and the duration of heat transfer from one fuel load can reach a day.
Fuel for bubafoni needs room-dry with a moisture content of up to 12%
It is permissible to load fuel into the bubafonya on the move, but it cannot be stopped; for maintenance / repair work, you must wait for the load to completely burn out.
The diameter of a 50-liter tank of 300 mm is the minimum allowable for bubafoni, so this stove must be made from it carefully and with a full understanding of the matter.

Bubafonya - the stove is very economical and is well suited for heating garages and households. premises. Its design is simple and affordable for making at home. On the trail. rice. the main stages of the workflow and dimensions are shown specifically for a balloon bubafoni with a power of up to 5-6 kW. It is only necessary to add that the gaps for air supply between the main (closest to the air duct) ends of the blades must be kept the same. When welding, instead of a conductor, it is convenient to use suitable scraps of metal - pieces of a bar, etc. The blades are first grabbed from the outside, and then, having removed the “conductors”, they are welded to the end.

Note: bubafoni power can be adjusted over a wide range, up to 10 times, but only manually, because. air throttle can only be installed at the upper end of the duct, which is movable.

Slobozhanka

Even simpler in design and not inferior to the bubafon in terms of parameters, the Slobozhanka combined combustion furnace, the diagram in fig. on right. But it is hardly worth making a Slobozhanka from a cylinder, because its minimum allowable diameter is about 500 mm and a balloon Slobozhanka will not show good efficiency. In addition, all Slobozhanka stoves have very serious drawbacks:

The device of the furnace "Slobozhanka"

Extremely toxic gases accumulate under the roof of the furnace, opening the lid of the furnace on the go, you can be poisoned to death.
There is no way to stop the Slobozhanka: if you close the throttle, the stove, before choking, will draw air back through the chimney. The pressure in the furnace will exceed atmospheric pressure and the poisonous mixture will go out.
On the hearth or grate of the furnace, a hard, dense soot settles, as in all "long" furnaces. After about a year (this is on good fuel), it grows to the mouth of the air duct, and it is difficult to knock it down and in places that are easily accessible.

A beautiful stranger

Most other homemade "long" stoves are no better, but more difficult than bubafoni. But there is one, almost purely pyrolysis oven (which is a rarity on wood) that deserves attention, its drawing is shown in fig. In addition, this stove is also a bunker, which is also rare for wood stoves.

According to the principle of operation, the “stranger” is a simplified and truncated rocket furnace, about which see next. sec. The delay of pyrogases in the afterburner under the hob is achieved by a diaphragm in the chimney, in exactly the same way as the washers distribute the coolant from the heating main to consumers. In the furnace business, such a constructive technique is rare, because. any weakening of draft worsens the quality of the furnace, but in this case, the creators turned evil into good.

How? Power limitation: this is an exclusively summer-country cooking stove. It is only enough for cooking, although several times more can be squeezed out of a 50-liter bottle. But the “stranger” works on any combustible garbage that can be pushed into the bunker; best of all - on fairly long chips, branches and dry stems, and it is much more economical, cheaper, simpler and lighter than the simplest brick slab. The foundation here, of course, is not needed, and the chimney is sufficient with a height of 1.5-2 m.

You can’t refuse the authors of the “stranger” in the knowledge of heat engineering, but they are a little too smart with metal: separate, and even removable under the furnaces and the roof of the gasifier (bottom-grate and partition in the original) are simply not needed here. The hearth can be the bottom of the 50-liter cylinder itself with the same 20 mm hole in the center, and the ash pan can be arranged in its skirt. The outlet pipe of the gasifier is welded onto the dome of the cylinder, and the afterburner can be made from cutting a 300 mm pipe or sheet metal. At the same time, it is quite possible to clean the stove through the fuel hopper and the gasifier outlet.

The crown of creation, or...

Emelya never dreamed

The crown of balloon-furnace creativity is, without a doubt, the rocket furnace, see fig. But not only and not so much because to make it according to all the rules requires considerable (albeit simple) work, attention, quick wit and accuracy. The main thing is that the rocket stove, as if on purpose, was created for a 50-liter tank, although most often it is made from a barrel. Not only the shape, but also the dimensions of a 50-liter propane cylinder are optimal for this furnace: if a rocket from a barrel heats up a horizontal section of the chimney in a bench (burs) up to 6 m long, then a balloon one, with a four times smaller drum capacity (see below about it) - up to 4 m. It is unlikely that anyone will need a bed of this length, but the rocket burr can be made from thin-walled metal corrugated, laying it in a wave-like manner in the array of the bed. This, of course, will greatly increase both the efficiency of heating the room and the duration of heat transfer after heating, which can reach 12 hours.

The advantages of the rocket stove are not limited to this:

This furnace is not only long, but also continuous burning. Additional loading of fuel is possible on the move of the furnace without restrictions.
The rocket stove can also be stopped and re-ignited without restrictions, and the ignition itself is elementary simple: with paper, straw or shavings, like a fire.
The rocket stove breathes, as does the .
Unlike brick stoves, rocket stoves are almost insensitive to long breaks in the furnace during the cold season.
Acceleration of a newly built or standing rocket furnace is also simple: heating with paper, shavings or straw until the couch warms to the touch.
The foundation of the rocket furnace is not needed: although its weight is under a ton, the support area is large and the load from the furnace on the floor does not exceed 250 kg per square meter allowed by SNiP. m.

There are only 2 shortcomings in the rocket stove, and, as they say, they are not fatal. Firstly, after kindling and, possibly, in the process of burning, it is necessary to set the furnace mode by adjusting the air supply. If the oven hums a lot, this does not mean that it heats better. On the contrary, in this mode, the gas-air path quickly overgrows with soot; a correctly heated stove quietly whispers.

Secondly, the power of the furnace is regulated only by the amount of fuel loading. Operational power adjustment is generally impossible; only the oven mode is set by the air supply. On the move, fuel can not only be loaded to increase power, but also separate smoldering chips can be pulled out with tongs and immediately extinguished, but this is a fire hazard.

Note: if the “whisper” of the stove seems that it heats up weakly - it doesn’t matter, wait, the heat goes into the battery. The stove will give it away later, cooling down after heating. If you need to warm up quickly, without thinking about fuel consumption yet, open the air until it buzzes. It is undesirable to bring it to a loud roar, soot inside will strongly settle.

How does a rocket work?

The device and principle of operation of the rocket furnace. Here we recall the most important.

The idea of a rocket furnace "on the fingers" is as follows: imagine 2 physically connected processes with an efficiency less than 100%; let's say 90% each. For the flow of the 2nd, the products of the 1st are needed. If they are launched together at once, then due to mutual interference due to entropy, the final efficiency will not exceed 65%. And if you “scroll” the 1st one first, save its results somewhere and then run the 2nd one on them, then the maximum overall efficiency will be slightly more than 80%.

In the most general sense, this is a universal law. It is thanks to him that the market economy, with all its cumbersome and gluttonous financial, administrative and security superstructures, turns out to be more efficient than subsistence farming. In the rocket furnace, this law is technically implemented by the sequential inclusion of 2 furnaces, generating heat and storage-heating.

The generator stove consists of (see Fig.) a blower 1a with an air supply regulator (they put the furnace into operation), a fuel hopper 1b with a blank cover, a channel for supplying secondary air 1c that ensures complete combustion of the fuel, a flame tube (fire pipe) 1g and internal or primary chimney - riser - 1d. The fire pipeline cannot be made too short or long: on the one hand, it must heat the secondary air well, without which complete combustion of wood pyrogases cannot be achieved. On the other hand, in a too long fire pipeline, the gases themselves will cool down and pyrolysis will not reach the end. The entire generating stove is securely wrapped in high-quality thermal insulation with the lowest possible intrinsic heat capacity. All that is required of the primary furnace is to completely burn the fuel and release a stream of burnt hot gases from the riser.

Note: in terms of efficiency, the optimal inner diameter of the riser is 70 mm. But if you achieve the maximum power of the furnace, then the riser pipe is needed already with a diameter of 100 mm; then its shell is needed not 150, but 200 mm. In this case, the efficiency decreases slightly. Further, when describing the technology for building a furnace, dimensions are given for both cases.

The basis of the heating and storage part of the furnace is a high-capacity heat accumulator, but it is impossible to immediately release gases from the riser into it, their temperature is about 1000 degrees. There are good heat-resistant heat-storing materials, but they are very expensive, so the authors of the rocket furnace used adobe as a storage medium. Its heat capacity is enormous, but it is not heat-resistant, so the secondary furnace must begin with a converter of high-potential heat into medium-potential, with a temperature of up to 300 degrees. In addition, part of the primary heat must be transferred to the room immediately to compensate for the current heat loss.

All these functions are performed by the furnace drum, and a 50-liter cylinder will go to it. The gases from the riser enter under the cover of the drum 2a with the hob 2b. The metal drum is thin-walled, it gives off heat well to the room. Having rolled over under the cover, the gases enter the annular lowering of the drum between its tube 2g and the metal shell of the riser insulation 2v. Under the drum 2d is also metal; metal does not let flue gases into the insulation of the primary furnace.

The fact is that inexpensive and high-quality insulating materials are porous. Let flue gases into them - their pores will be drawn in, quickly clogged with burning, and all the insulation, and with it the efficiency of the furnace, will go down the drain. Saman is also porous and is also very readily spoiled by soot. Therefore, the first task in the construction of a rocket furnace is to ensure complete tightness of the gas-smoke path.

In the drum, about 1/3 of its height from the top, the gases have already cooled down enough to give up their heat to the accumulator. From this height to the bottom, the lining (coating) of the entire furnace with adobe begins. In the drum, flue gases give off, outside and into the accumulator, about half of the heat generated by the generator, but it is still too early to let them into the heat exchanger: from the drum, through its outlet 2e, the gases enter the secondary ash pan 3a with a sealed cleaning door 3b, and then into a long horizontal section of the chimney (boars) 4. From the boar, the gases that have almost completely given off heat to the adobe couch are released into a conventional external chimney.

Why do you need a secondary ash pan? The gases coming out of the drum are not very hot and chemically already neutral, because. burnt to the end. But they still contain a small amount of solid suspension; mainly - microparticles of the mineral components of wood. And the hog, as mentioned above, is made of thin metal corrugated and even laid with twists, and this whole pipe is tightly walled up, so it is impossible to clean the hogs. Let dirty gases into it - the gap will soon become overgrown with soot and the bed will have to be broken. And in the secondary ash pan, the suspension settles. Once or twice a year it will have to be raked out, but the stove will now last for many years.

So, now we know enough to start building a rocket furnace. What will we do.

Building a rocket

To begin with, we need to stock up on 5 types of lining. However, their components are either inexpensive or completely underfoot, and preparing the mixture yourself is not difficult:

5a - the most common adobe: clay, thoroughly mixed with finely chopped straw and mixed with water until the dough is thick. Because the couch did not blow or sack, except for its weight, it is not loaded with anything and is in the room, the quality of the clay of great importance does not have, you can take a self-digging ravine.
5b - main heat insulator. Medium-fat oven clay in half with crushed stone from the lung fireclay bricks SHL. Water - until the density of the dough.
5v - heat-resistant gas-tight mechanically strong coating. Ordinary chamotte sand with furnace clay 1:1 by volume. Water - to the consistency of plasticine.
5g - self-dug sand, river or ravine, or very thin sandy loam. Washing or calcination is not needed, it is enough to sift through a sieve with a mesh of 3 mm.
5d - medium-fat oven clay.

Some explanations. It is better to introduce grass straw into adobe (meadow cereal hay), with it the strength, which we do not really need, will be lower, but the heat capacity will also be greater. As for the recipes for making adobe - choose any suitable one, this is not essential for a rocket stove. You can do it as in the video below, only we don’t need to build a house completely.

Video: making adobe

In mixture 5b, crushed stone (not sand!) And only ShL are needed. Other chamottes (SHM, ShV, etc.) are themselves good heat accumulators, it is not without reason that furnace fireboxes are made of them. But in this case, a large heat capacity will only harm. It is advisable to set more rubble ShL, if only the clay sticks it together.

The purpose of the 5v mixture is to extend the life of the furnace. All metal structures in it are steel with a wall thickness of up to 3 mm, so it is necessary that the rocket “fly” as it should. But in the flame path, thin metal will quickly burn out. However, by that time, the 5v coating will have been fired, and over time, the sections steel pipes spontaneously replaced by ceramic ones. True, then the stove will have to be cleaned carefully (the riser, although slowly, but still overgrown with soot), is fragile after all.

In the composition of 5g there is a rather large admixture of alumina. IN building sand it is unwanted, so get rid of it. But alumina is just right for the lining of the riser: the heat capacity of the mixture is minimal, and, when sintered, it will also gain some strength. And raw materials are available for free.

Note: lining the riser can also be done with composition 5b, but, firstly, it costs money. Secondly, the work will take a very long time - the lining will have to be layered, with the previous layer completely dry, otherwise the coating will dry in the shell for an unreasonably long time and will crack inside.

Stage 0

First you need to make a bed for the stove, see fig. - durable wooden trestle bed of the required configuration. Its frame is made of intersecting cut-in quarter lags (beam 100x100 mm) with a mesh of at least 600x900 mm under the stove and at least 600x1200 mm under the bed itself. The oblong cells of the frame are oriented along the couch. The curved edges of the frame are brought to the contour by trimming timber and boards.

Note: it is not necessary to raise the bed higher, taking into account the power of the bed lining, it will be so convenient.

The frame is covered with 40 mm grooved boards. The deck board joints should be oriented perpendicular to the long sides of the frame cells. The ends of the timber and boards that protrude beyond the desired contour of the bed are sawn in shape immediately, but its outer contour remains free for now, it will be sheathed with drywall, etc. upon completion of the furnace.

Before assembly, the parts are first impregnated with a biocide, and the entire structure is impregnated twice with a water-polymer emulsion. The frame parts are fastened along the crosshairs with diagonal pairs of 6x90 mm confirmations, and the flooring boards are attached to the frame with longitudinal pairs of 6x60 mm confirmations, a pair in the board for each longitudinal log.

Then, at the place of permanent installation of the furnace, 4 mm mineral cardboard is laid on the floor with some margin for trimming along the contour, and the place over which the furnace itself will be is additionally covered with a sheet of roofing iron; it must be cut in shape in advance, taking into account the fact that the offset in front of the furnace furnace must be at least 100 mm, this is enough for a rocket.

Now the bed is moved into place. They immediately arrange an exit to the outer chimney, somewhere at the rear edge of the stove bench. Its lower edge should be 70-90 mm above level A of the furnace lining (see Fig. with the main diagram), i.e. 120-140 mm from the bedding level.

Stage 1

On the bed along the entire contour, a solid formwork is made with a height of A, according to the main scheme of the furnace (40-50 mm), with a smooth upper edge. If the bed is adjacent to the wall, the formwork is brought to the walls, and the level of its top is beaten off with a cord. Then the formwork is poured with adobe and its surface is smoothed with a polisher - a flat, smooth board with a rounded corner. If the formwork is incomplete and it is inconvenient to lead the far end along the mark, beacons from plywood strips can still be leaned against the walls; they are removed when the adobe dries up, and the cracks are covered.

Stage 2

While level A dries, let's make a drum from a cylinder, see fig. First, cut off its top so that a hole with a diameter of 200-220 mm is obtained (do not forget to bleed off the remaining gas!), It is covered with a steel round 3-4 mm thick, this will be a hob. Then a cut is made below the upper welding seam of the cylinder by 40-50 mm, this is almost a cover.

A thin sheet metal skirt is welded to the lid. Its side seam also needs to be welded, it will greatly lead the skirt away from the seam connection. Cooked at a direct current of 60 A with a 2-mm electrode. I must say that it is difficult to keep the arc in this mode, you need to be a fairly experienced welder. After mounting the skirt, holes are drilled in it for M4-M5 bolts, 3-6 holes. evenly around the circumference, 20-25 mm from the bottom edge.

The third cut of the balloon is below the bottom seam, where the tube begins to pass into the rounded bottom. The remnants of the balloon skirt do not need to be removed, so it will only hold on tighter in the stove. Now, at the bottom of the tube, we make a cutout for its exit in the form of a horizontally elongated rectangle. Its height is 70 mm and the width depends on the selected riser tube, see inset on the top right of the main diagram.

The next operation is laying the sealing gasket. For her, a braided asbestos cord is needed; untwisted shaggy twine is not good. The cord is glued with superglue or, better, with Moment. Then the glue, of course, will burn out, but the gasket will also stick to the remnants, especially since the cover will have to be removed once a year, not every year.

Having laid the gasket, immediately, as soon as the glue has seized, we put on the lid and put a load of 2-3 kg on it. Under load, we mark the holes in the tube in place. After removing the cover, drill and cut the thread. Now we insert the tube into the inverted cover and measure the depth of the drum, this is necessary to clarify the height of the riser pipe. We take apart the lid with the tube so that the gasket is not soaked through with glue and the cord does not lose elasticity, stage 2 is finished.

Stage 3

Level A will dry for a week or two, and at this time we will deal with the furnace part of the furnace. Details 1a, 1b and 1d from a professional pipe 150x150 mm; riser pipe 1d round. When marking blanks, it is necessary to observe the distance indicated on the main diagram from the rear, if viewed from the side of the blower, the edge of the bunker to the front edge of the drum. Within the specified limits, it is arbitrary, based on the location of the furnace and its design. The removal of the blower forward is also arbitrary, but, of course, within reasonable limits. It is also not necessary to push the blower under the bunker, the valve will be hot. The best option is to cut off the blower flush with the front edge of the bunker, as in the diagram.

After cutting holes for the hopper and the riser pipe, the first step is to weld the partition of the secondary air channel 1c, at a height of 30 mm from the bottom of the furnace. A solid seam is not needed, 2 tacks through the not yet welded rear end of the firebox are enough, 2-4 through the hole for the bunker and 2 through the blower. Material - sheet steel 1.5-2.5 mm.

Note: the angle of inclination of the hopper can be within 45-90 degrees from the horizontal. But at a slope of 45 degrees, rough chips can get stuck, and if the hopper is vertical, then when reloading fuel, the hand is dangerously close to the hot drum. Therefore, a slope of 60 degrees was chosen.

The rear edge of the air baffle should be flush with the front edge of the riser tube opening. Its front edge should protrude outward by 20-25 mm. This shelf is needed so as not to litter when cleaning the stove: this design does not allow the use of a grate with a retractable ash pan, and the ash will have to be raked out with a scraper into the tray; its edge is slipped under the shelf. However, the ash rocket oven gives nothing at all.

It is better to do the blower valve with a vertical stroke in the grooves with flat springs, the swing door will not provide the proper smooth adjustment of the furnace mode, and it is more difficult to make a throttle with a rotary damper. The cover of the bunker is bent from galvanization. Complete tightness is not needed here, as long as it fits snugly.

When the furnace metal structure is ready (do not forget to weld the riser pipe and weld the rear of the flame tube!), it is lined with composition 5c with a layer of 10-12 mm, as shown in the diagram. A continuous coating is given only on the bottom. The top and sides of the blower from its front edge to the bunker are left free. Ofuterovav, put to dry.

They are dried by putting on a pole with a blower part. At first, they regularly inspect: if the coating slips, it is removed and a new portion of clay is made fatter and with less water. Do not rely on chance, this is a responsible operation!

Stage 4

The furnace part will dry out soon (2-3 days), and during this time it is quite possible to make a formwork for insulation and lay its bottom layer, because. Level A The adobe has already dried up enough to hold a little weight. The formwork design is clear from Fig. The meaning of what is marked in red will become clear later. Formwork is made of boards or plywood with a thickness of 20-25 mm. It is not necessary to firmly fasten the parts, because. the formwork will then have to be disassembled. Enough brackets from fine wire outside corners; you can just wrap it with duct tape.

The formwork is put in place with the outer edge of the front bar flush with the edge of the bed and exactly along the axis of the future furnace. You need to put it carefully, with measurements, otherwise the details of the furnace will not converge later. From accidental displacement, you can fix it with thin pointed pegs by sticking them from the outside into the adobe. Beacons, on which the lower layer of insulation will be aligned - from any material, but their height must be exactly equal to that of the front formwork bar.

Stage 5

The formwork is filled with a mixture of 5b to level B. The surface of the fill is leveled with a polisher along the beacons and the front bar.

Stage 6

While the insulating pad dries up and the furnace part dries out, we make the riser shell and under the drum. With the shell, everything is simple: either a pipe segment, or we bend it from a thin (1-2 mm) sheet. Both, of course, steel. If the shell is made of sheet, the seam can be folded, a perfect circle is not necessary here.

Note: no need to make a shell below the riser pipe and then round the top of the riser with clay (see below). The stove works better if the gases roll into the downhill with a break.

Under the drum, as can be seen in the diagram, it is inclined. This is necessary for a better swirling of the flow in the secondary ash pan, see below. But if you thought: “Well, now cut an ellipse in an ellipse!”, Then in vain. With a tilt of 10 degrees, the major axis of the ellipse is as much as 304.5 mm, and we need a smaller one, 5-7 degrees.

That is, we make the outer diameter of the hearth blank (steel sheet 2-3 mm) 4 mm less than the inner diameter of the drum, and the diameter of the cutout for the shell is 3 mm larger than its outer diameter, and will fall like a native. We will smear the slots along the outer and inner contours (marked with green circles in the diagram) after installing the hearth with clay 5d, bringing the sausages into the fillets with just a finger.

Stage 7

Check if level 5B is completely dry. This can be done by temporarily removing the front formwork bar. If not, we smoke (sorry, we are struggling with nicotine. We drink juice.) for a day or two.

If it is dry, we put the furnace part in the formwork, its coating is probably already dry. It is also necessary to set it exactly along the axis of the furnace, vertically and horizontally, with measurements: the drum and the shell should ultimately be concentric plus or minus 2 mm, and the top of the secondary ash pan (see below) should fit tightly under the upper edge of the drum outlet. The front edge of the blower is set flush with the outer edge of the formwork and, accordingly, the bed. At the same time, it will protrude from the insulation to the thickness of the formwork board, which is just enough to smear it with adobe from the outside: the insulation used is effective, but also sensitive to air humidity.

We fix the exposed furnace part with pegs, as well as the formwork. Let them remain in the mass of isolation, it's okay. Now we put additional front shields and fill the formwork to the top with a mixture of 5b, we have reached the level D of the lining. It is no longer necessary to level completely, so as not to hook the bunker that accidentally protrudes from the solution. It is enough to iron with a polisher, leaning on the edges of the formwork, in the area where the drum is located, marked in pale gray on the formwork diagram. But here you need to align to smoothness.

Stage 8

We dry level G. This is also a responsible operation, it is impossible to rely on the microclimate of the room and ordinary drying by natural evaporation outside, the oven will come out bad and short-lived. It is necessary to create more or less stable conditions inside the drying mass.

This is done with an ordinary incandescent bulb of 40-60 watts. It (turned on, of course) is thrust into the furnace so that the flask is under the riser pipe. It is only necessary to provide for some kind of mini-tragus under the lamp socket so that the bulb does not touch the metal, otherwise the glass may burst. The top of the G level will dry out enough to withstand further operations while we make the secondary ash pan, see next.

Note: the light bulb will have to burn continuously for a total of approximately 30 days, taking into account further stages of drying. During this time, a 60-watt one will eat 24x30x0.06 \u003d 43.2 kW / h of electricity, and a 40-watt one 28.8 kW / h, which will cost 129 rubles, respectively. 60 kop. and 86 rubles. 40 kop. Whether such an expense is exorbitant is up to you. However, on either side, it is better to take a 40-watt one. Drying will last longer, but it will come out better and less sensitive to the quality of raw materials.

Stage 9

We make a secondary ash pan, or for short, just an ash pan, because. There is no primary in this oven. Here it looks like the same node in the American prototypes. rocket ovens, but fundamentally different from them.

For Americans, an almost laminar flow of gases enters the ash pan through the wide outlet of the drum, and here it twists for deeper cleaning, see next. stage of the installation scheme of the ash pan. The cause of eddies is the rotation of the Earth; more precisely, the Coriolis force caused by it, the same one that spins the water flowing from the bath.

Note: military-historical curiosities. At the end of World War II, the Nazis developed the V-3, an ultra-long-range multi-chamber cannon with a gradual acceleration of the projectile, to bombard London. They punched adits in the rock, assembled the entire system. And then it turned out that the Germans, famous for their thoroughness ... forgot to take into account the rotation of the Earth! All projectiles would have missed. So the V-3 never fired, giving rise only to panic in the Western intelligence services and a wave of myths that has come down to our days. Later, Saddam Hussein ran around with the same idea. He was going to shoot from his desert in Berlin, Paris and the same London. His specialists have already calculated everything exactly and carried out successful experiments on small models. But, again, after everything, it turned out that everyone modern technologies it is not possible to create precision-precision gun barrels 200-300 m long. In general, work loves a fool. Even if the fool is smart and knows a lot.

The drawings of the ash pan are shown in fig. Size L is measured from point A (marked in red on the formwork diagram) along the perpendicular (red arrow in the same place) to the edge of the bed. Dimension H - the sum of the formwork heights measured in place and the exit window already cut in the drum (70 mm, if cut accurately). The bevel of the top of the ash pan back is arbitrary within reasonable limits, if only then it would not stick out from under the coating of the drum with adobe.

Immured ash pan box - made of thin steel sheet or galvanized 0.6-1.2 mm. The front panel (face) is made of steel sheet 4-6 mm, because it can be exposed to the outside and has M5 threaded holes for attaching the cover. Cutout for chimney burrs - along the outer diameter of the existing metal corrugation; 150-180 mm is suitable for this furnace. Its location is arbitrary, you just need to observe the dimensions A, B and C on the drawing of the ash pan. All parts except for the hog are connected by welding with a continuous seam in the same mode as for the skirt of the drum cover. See below for connecting a hog.

The cover of the cleaning hole with a size of 180x180 mm is also made of steel with a thickness of 4-6 mm. The sealing gasket under it is made of mineral cardboard. Mounting bolts - from M5x8 to M5x15 with hexagonal heads. Bolts with any slots should not be used: the ash pan from the inside is overgrown with a thin layer of dense soot. The thickness of its layer will soon stabilize, but the bolts for removing the cover have to be unscrewed with a socket wrench with a knob.

Note: use hinged door with a latch is undesirable - it will not provide tightness for ever and ever. You won’t notice this right away, but the appetite will increase at the stove and inside it will begin to overgrow with burning. And you have to open the ash pan for cleaning at most once a year, if the stove is heated with room-dry wood.

Stage 10

It must be assumed that while we were fiddling with the ash pan, the level G had already dried up. You can check it by temporarily removing the formwork wall, as well as level B. If you are ready, we mount the drum and ash pan.

We put the drum tube without the lid in place. We monitor the concentricity of it and the riser pipe, and also so that the exit window is in the right place, see the inset at the top right on general scheme ovens and diagram in fig.

We put a little mixture 5b inside the drum and use a spatula to form a wedge from it with an inclination of 5-7 degrees, converging to the exit window. Now we put it in place under, with a stick we press it to the solution. We select the mortar from the cutout under the shell, otherwise you won’t put the shell, the mortar is on rubble. Next, install, slightly turning, the shell. We coat the gaps along the outer and inner contours with clay 5d, as described earlier.

Stage 11

There is no need to wait for the insulation under the bottom to dry, we immediately line the riser. The shell is filled in layers, only in 5-7 layers, with a composition of 5 g (self-dug sand or lean sandy loam). We tamp each layer with a rolling pin with a flat end and spray from a spray bottle until a crust forms. Not reaching 5-6 cm to the top, we form a cork from clay 5d. When it dries, thin cracks form between it, the pipe and the shell, but it's okay: when the furnace is fired, they will soon overgrow with soot of concrete density and strength.

Stage 12

Immediately after mounting the drum, we install an ash pan; We will cover the cleaning hole with a lid later. Its installation is simple: on the lower and large side surfaces we apply a layer of clay 5d 2-3 mm thick. We insert the ash pan into place, press and press down. Then we coat the contour of the output window of the drum (it is also the input ash pan) on the outside with the same clay 5d. Smear the sausages squeezed inside with your finger into fillets. Do not lose sight of: the edge of the hearth protrudes into the ash pan with a narrow segmental shelf, you also need to form a fillet under it. In general, the transition from the drum to the ash pan must be sealed both inside and outside (green oval on the general scheme of the furnace).

Stage 13

If the level G of the insulation is not completely dry yet, we wait for it to dry. To speed it up, the formwork can already be removed. If so, we also remove the formwork (drying continues, the light in the furnace is still on!) and apply insulation with a 5B solution to level C. We apply it without formwork, with our hands. Manually, without much accuracy, we form a semicircular vault at level B.

Stage 14

Without waiting for level B to dry, we make a formwork along the contour of the bed, as when forming level A, but already to level G. Now we specify its value according to the measurement data: above the upper edge of the hole for burs in the ash pan should be at least 80 mm. It is also undesirable to do more than 120 mm, the heat transfer of the furnace after heating will be sluggish. New level Let's call G for brevity G1.

Stage 15

We fill the new formwork with adobe to the lower edge of the hole for burs in the ash pan, on one side. On the other hand, to the lower edge of the exit to the outer chimney. Roughly, with our hands, we level, but you need to make sure that there are no dips, and, accordingly, U-shaped sections of the hog. If you read carefully at first, you will understand that we will be able to lift the hog from the ash pan to the chimney by 10-30 mm. It is necessary for uniform heating of the couch, but sections of the hog inclined downwards are undesirable in any case.

Stage 16

We stretch the prepared corrugation to its full length. We introduce one end of it into the ash pan by 15-20 mm and flare it from the inside with a flat screwdriver through the cleaning door. We coat the outer contour of the input of the hog into the ash pan with clay 5d, as already described.

Further, the beginning of the hog, counting from the ash pan, is covered with adobe for 15-25 cm, it will keep the corrugation from being pulled out during the following operations. Now we lay the burs in a bed with bends, but not coming closer than 100 mm to any edge. As you lay, lightly press down, slightly pressing into the adobe. Having laid, we introduce the far end of the corrugation into the exit hole into the chimney and along the contour, again, coat with clay 5d.

Stage 17

We manually wrap the hogs with adobe so that there are no dips and niches under the bottom of the corrugation. Then we fill the formwork with adobe, smooth its surface with a polisher. If the adobe is thick, heavy, made of greasy clay, you can immediately form the rounding of the upper corners, see the inset at the bottom right in the main diagram. It is convenient to do this with a galvanized strip bent by a trough to a quarter of a circle. If the adobe is light, you will have to dust with a cutter or around the stone during the final finishing.

Stage 18

We put in place, already constantly, the lids of the ash pan and the drum. The lamp in the firebox burns everything, dries! We attach the drum lid with cone-head screws: tightened tightly, they will tightly compress the gasket between the lid and the tube.

Stage 19

We form the adobe coating of the drum, as already mentioned: 1/3 of its top remains free, and counting down from half its height, the adobe layer should be no thinner than 100 mm. For the rest - as God puts it on your soul, here the rocket stove will endure any design.

Stage 20

At the end of drying (this is about 2 weeks), we remove the formwork and round, if necessary, the remaining corners. Recent Operations before kindling - we paint the drum with heat-resistant enamel at 450 degrees (750 degrees is much more expensive), and cover the bench with acrylic varnish in 2 layers; 2nd after complete drying of the 1st.

The lacquering will not interfere with the stove's breathing, the breath will go through the bedding. But, firstly, the varnish will not allow the adobe to dust. Secondly, it will protect it from accidental moisture ingress. Thirdly, it will give the stove a noble look of glazed clay.

Stage final: rocket launch

In a dry oven, we put it in the grooves, without pushing it, the blower valve (the light bulbs are no longer there, of course), we close the lid of the bunker and drown it with paper, straw, shavings, etc., all the while supplying fuel through the blower. When the couch warms up a little to the touch, add more light fuel, and load the standard fuel into the bunker. After waiting for a fairly strong hum of the stove, we cover the blower "to a whisper." That's it, the rocket stove with a stove bench is ready! Now - to the start! That is, in bed.

Finally

There is a direction in balloon-furnace creativity that is still being developed only by smokers, and then somehow: the construction of furnaces from 2 or more cylinders. And from the point of view of heat engineering, his prospects are quite serious.

The old non-autonomous diving equipment was divided into 2 classes according to the number of helmet attachment points: three-bolt with a soft suit for working at a depth of up to 60 m and heavy hard 12-bolt deep-water. The profession of a shallow-water diver had a completely official name - a three-bolt diver. In this regard, it is interesting what hidden meaning the trolls and goblins of Runet would see in the name, well, let's say: "Society of Multi-Cylinder Stove Makers"?

A gas cylinder stove can be placed where heating cannot be arranged in another way: in a garage, country house, change house.

If you have the desire and time, you can do all the work yourself.

This article will help you independently convert a gas cylinder into a heating or heating and cooking stove.

Here you will find drawings and instructional videos with which you can make a waste oil, coal or wood stove.

Varieties of furnaces from a gas cylinder

A do-it-yourself gas cylinder stove is considered the easiest option for manufacturing or working out a heating apparatus.

The cylinder is easily transformed into a stove body. To work, you need a grinder and an inverter or any other welding machine.

The shape of the cylinder allows you to make a furnace with a spherical furnace. Firewood in a stove of this form burns slowly - as a result, a kind of heat generator is obtained, capable of heating the room for hours on one tab of firewood.

A homemade stove from a long-burning gas cylinder can be used in different ways:

as heating and cooking in residential premises;
as heating for heating one or two rooms;
as a cooking for use in the summer in the country;
as an emergency portable option for use in case of failures in the main heating system.

Advantages of gas cylinder stoves:

you can get a long-burning apparatus at practically no cost, since the system is assembled from standard inexpensive elements;
all work can be done independently, no need to look for specialists;
suitable for heating baths;
video materials are available with positive experience in creating furnaces of various designs;
simple operation.

The disadvantages include the moment that the work should be done according to reliable drawings - otherwise the design will not have the required efficiency.

For work, you will need to choose a suitable cylinder. You should opt for an all-metal cylinder with a volume of 12 or 27 liters.

However, for a complete heater choose a gas cylinder with a volume of 50 liters and a diameter of 30 centimeters. Any fuel, including coal, can be burned in a tank of this volume.

Even before the start of work, it is necessary to decide on what type of fuel the furnace will operate. If you need a long-burning furnace, then it is better to provide for the possibility of loading coal into it.

A long-burning stove can be made small, only on wood - for this, it provides for the possibility of regulating draft.

Hardest to make heating appliances on liquid fuel: waste oil, diesel fuel. On the other hand, a waste oil furnace allows you to reduce heating costs, since oil is inexpensive.

It is better for a beginner to start with simpler designs, for example, try to convert a gas cylinder into an ordinary potbelly stove.

Solid fuel stove

How can you make a stove from a gas cylinder? The first question that arises even before starting work is: how best to position the tank - horizontally or vertically?

If you want to use the stove for cooking, you will have to place the cylinders horizontally.

In the vertical version, grates will definitely have to be installed inside the cylinder; in the horizontal version, this is done as desired.

But in a horizontal structure, it will be necessary to weld a tray for collecting ash, and in a vertical one, when installing the grate to a sufficient height, the ash pan can be omitted.

The potbelly stove will require cast doors for the blower and fuel chamber.

Home craftsmen make them themselves from a piece of metal cut from a cylinder when making a hole for the combustion chamber.

In this case, you only need to purchase hinges and a latch handle. For a purchased door, you will have to weld a frame welded from the corners onto the cylinder around the perimeter of the holes, and bolt the fittings to it already.

Before you start cutting or welding metal, you need to empty the container from the gas. The cylinder is filled to the top with water, then it is drained, and only after that they begin to work.

Stages of manufacturing a horizontal potbelly stove:

cut off the top of the container with a grinder;
install a grate made of bent reinforcement inside the cylinder;
fittings are welded to the tank;
a circle is cut out of steel 4 mm thick, equal to the outer diameter of the cylinder;
holes-rectangles are cut in a circle - the first under the firebox, the second under the blower;
weld a steel circle;
fix doors;
paste over the doors along the contour with asbestos cement;
they begin to re-equip the back of the furnace - they cut out a hole for the chimney equal to the diameter of the pipe;
a chimney is welded from a thick-walled pipe.

When the cylinder is located vertically, a design will be obtained that takes up a minimum of space.

Such a cylinder stove is suitable for a bathhouse, a small living space, it can be put in a garage.

Stages of manufacturing a vertical potbelly stove:

cut off the top of the cylinder with a grinder;
a large hole is cut out on the front of the future furnace for the furnace, below - under the blower, through which the structure will be cleaned of ash;
inside the cylinder, a grate of reinforcing bars is lowered and welded to the walls;
a border is welded to the holes under the doors and pasted over with an asbestos-cement cord;
the top is welded - it was cut off only in order to put a grate;
a chimney opening is made from above or from the side.

Bubafonya oven and rocket oven

An ordinary potbelly stove has a significant drawback - low efficiency. A huge amount of heat escapes through the chimney.

In addition, as soon as the fire goes out, the structure immediately cools down. Pyrolysis furnaces, that is, devices capable of maintaining long-term combustion, are deprived of these shortcomings.

The simplest pyrolysis oven can be made from a gas cylinder. Masters call such devices bubaphones.

The bubafonya stove from a gas cylinder was invented by a craftsman from Russia. This happened recently, but bubafonya has already become very popular.

How does the bubafonya type apparatus, converted from a gas cylinder, work? A movable piston is installed inside the container, dividing the balloon into two parts.

Fuel (firewood) burns under the piston, and above it - gases released from firewood as a result of pyrolysis.

This principle of operation leads to the burning of firewood in the "reverse order" - from top to bottom.

Reverse combustion is slower than usual, in which oxygen is supplied to the fuel chamber from below, through the blower holes.

In a bubafon, air is supplied to the furnace by a piston axle, which is a hollow tube. Oxygen enters the pyrolysis chamber through openings cut at the end of the gas cylinder.

The division of the furnace into two compartments allows the wood, even with a lack of oxygen, to burn through to the end without turning into coal.

The system is so effective that a bubafon from a gas cylinder on one tab of firewood works for 4-6 hours.

There are reliable reviews that a bubafonya from a 200-liter barrel works on one tab for a whole day.

Bubafonya can be used for water heating. To do this, the gas cylinder is enclosed in water jacket, using another metal case, and connect a water pump to the system.

The rocket stove was developed as a design for survival in extreme conditions. It has high efficiency and maximum safety.

At the same time, a home-made rocket stove is so simple that a non-professional can make it. In rocket furnaces, the principle of pyrolysis is used, that is, fuel decomposes into volatile substances under conditions of oxygen deficiency.

The simplest pyrolysis furnace can be made from any cylindrical metal container, for example, a barrel or a gas cylinder.

Rocket stoves can be equipped with benches. Such structures are still used in China and Korea for heating peasant houses.

Structurally, a rocket stove from a gas cylinder consists of a blower, a fuel chamber with a blank cover, a channel for oxygen supply to the pyrolysis chamber, a flame tube in which gases are burned, and a chimney.

Liquid fuel stove

In individual farms, it is sometimes possible to use used engine oil. In this case, heating costs are drastically reduced.

To burn oil, you need to assemble a special furnace that runs on liquid fuel. A mining heater and a simple wood-burning stove work on a different principle.

At first glance, a working oven is no more complicated than a pan, but complex chemical and thermal processes take place in it.

The furnace for mining from a gas cylinder consists of the following parts:

oil containers;
dampers regulating combustion;
holes for filling oil;
chimney.

For the manufacture of a furnace from a gas cylinder, tanks with a volume of 50 liters are used.

The balloon is sawn in a ratio of 2:1. The smaller part will go to the manufacture of the tank, the larger one will become the afterburner.

The principle of operation of such a furnace system is as follows:

oil is poured into the fuel bunker and set on fire;
air is fed into the chamber through an air throttle and thus greatly limit the intensity of combustion;
as a result, the fuel does not burn, but evaporates, that is, the pyrolysis process begins;
oil "steam" rises to the upper chamber and burns completely there.

In other words, the fuel is used twice - first the oil burns, and then its vapors burn out. As a result, no waste remains, and the efficiency of such a furnace is as high as 80%.

Waste oil is a heavy, heavily polluted and poorly burning mass of complex composition. Two-stage combustion allows you to fully use the entire resource of this fuel. The structure is vertical.

On top of it, you can install a lattice-stand for placing buckets, pans and other utensils.

Drawings that must be strictly adhered to and training videos will help to make a furnace for testing from a cylinder.

The disadvantage of liquid fuel stoves include increased requirements to safety engineering. Fuel reserves have to be stored away from the boiler room.

A waste oil-powered structure cannot be used as a sauna stove, but it is useful for heating workshops, change houses and residential premises.

IN last case for her it is better to build a separate boiler room in the form of an extension to the house.

So, now you know how to make any oven from a metal gas cylinder with your own hands.

Having the necessary drawings, a grinder and an inverter, you can easily make a mobile and efficient heating device that will help out in winter time when other types of heating are turned off or unavailable.

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