How to take a panoramic photo. Step-by-step instruction! Simple, easy, fast. How to make a street panorama on an Android smartphone
Now it's time to glue the photos in Photoshop. Today we have little surprise- I recorded the first video lesson about how to make a panorama in photoshop, but I think step by step to paint the sequence of work in Photoshop also does not hurt. And it's done one, two, three!
- We select the files from which we are going to make a panorama and open them all in Photoshop. In principle, you can not immediately open, but in my opinion, it is more convenient. Go to the menu item File -> Automate-> Photomerge. The Photomerge function has appeared in Photoshop since the CS version, if you have an earlier version, let me know, we will find a solution!
So you will see such a window in front of you, where you will need to select files for the panorama, as well as the gluing algorithm.
If you have already opened all the photos in Photoshop, then just click Add Open Files and all files will immediately move to this window, if not, then click Browse and select those files from which we are going to make a panorama.
The column on the left shows the algorithms for merging images.
- “ Auto ” (Auto) Photoshop automatically selects the best mode for the panorama, transforms and blends the original photos, and corrects colors, if necessary.
- “Perspective” gives the effect of perspective, using one of the sources (by default, the center image) as the basis and transforming the rest of the photos to give the effect of perspective to the overall picture.
- “Cylindrical” (Cylindrical) gives the panorama a cylindrical distortion, as if the panorama fit into the inner part cylinder, and then unfolded and placed on the table. This option is good for wide panoramas.
- “ Spherical ” (spherical) aligns and transforms images as if they were inscribed in the inner surface of a sphere - this option is suitable for creating 360 panoramas if you have taken photos for a 360-degree panorama.
- “ Collage ” (Collage) aligns and transforms images, but does not distort them, that is, it only rotates and proportionally increases / reduces the source.
- “Reposition” (Move only) simply sets the photos next to each other, as if you were laying them out on a table, without altering or distorting the images.
In most cases, the option Auto works great, so leave it, check the box below Blend Images Together, which finds the optimal boundaries between the original panorama photos, substitutes them for each other and corrects the colors, and also mark Correct Geometric Distortions(Correction of geometric distortions). The greater the coverage of the panorama, the greater these distortions, so I recommend that you still check the box. If you glue only 2-3 frames in Photoshop, the objects on which are approximately the same distance from you, then there may not be a need for such an adjustment.
We press the button victoriously ... and wait 🙂 Depending on the power of your computer, the size of the files and their number, the process of gluing them together in Photoshop may take some time, sometimes a long time - after all, Photoshop picks up pieces from all your photos, copies them into a separate .psd file as layers, and attaches a mask to each layer, which is quite convenient for the subsequent correction of various irregularities and possible inconsistencies.
2. So, when the photoshop did its job, we got this jagged picture with some white lines. Let's start with a tool Crop and cut out the frame, capturing the filled areas and framing the way we want.
3. Now there are white stripes that will disappear as soon as you merge all the layers, so just click on the triangle in the tab Layers (Layers) and choose the item Flattern Image (Combine the layers)
Easily and quickly turn your panoramas into attractive, miniature planets using Photoshop or your favorite graphic editor.
Panoramas are one of my favorite ways to show a scene. They are so interesting and detailed that I advise you to pay attention to them. This little tip adds an extra pinch of creativity, turning standard panoramas into miniature planets that really have the "wow" factor.
The technical name for this technique is "stereographic projection", but don't be intimidated by this complicated word, in fact, everything is much simpler. For this example, I'll be using Photoshop, but you can use any other editor, including GIMP which is free.
Choosing the right photo.
Almost any panorama will do for us, but there are moments that will improve the final result.
- Viewing angle- 360 degree panorama, best suited because their edges merge together. Tighter corners will work too, but you may need to do extra work so that the colors and textures are the same at the edges of the panorama and fit together.
- Image Width- The aspect ratio (width divided by height) of your photo affects the smoothness of your planet. Wider images tend to produce more smooth surfaces planets, and narrower panoramas can give large elevation changes. Both options look great.
- Sky- the panorama sky will be seriously distorted in the final image. Clear skies tend to best result, although clouds can give an interesting stretched effect.
- On the first - the bottom of your photo will be squashed into a bun to form the center of the planet, and this can lead to some distortion. As with the sky, smooth textures like grass or sand look better.
- Horizon - must be perfectly aligned so that the edges meet neatly, the bases of the steps. If your photo does not fit this parameter, then you can correct it in a photo editor.
It may seem to you that there are many criteria in our business, but after trying, you will understand that almost any panorama will do. If you still have doubts, take any panorama that does not fall under the above "rules" and try what happens. The result may turn out to be interesting and unusual, and under normal conditions this will not work. So don't be afraid to experiment.
Planet transformation.
Found the right image? Fine. Time to turn it into a planet.
1.
We make a square of the image.
Let's start with the dimensions of the image. Go to the >image "image" tab. Choose the image size. In the window that appears, uncheck the “preserve proportions” checkbox and set the height according to the width.
This procedure will distort your panorama a bit, but don't worry, that's how it should be.
2.
Apply a gradient to the sky.
This step is optional, but without it, the final image at the corners may look warped and pulled. Select the gradient tool and set the colors on the edges to match the prevailing colors of the sky. Set the opacity slider on the left to 100% and on the right to 0%.
Drag the gradient from the top of the photo down a further distance to create a smooth transition to a solid color.
3.
Turn your photo upside down
Go to Image tab > Rotate Image 180° to flip your image upside down. This ensures that the twisting is done correctly when we turn our panorama into a planet.
4.
Applyfilter, polar coordinates
Go to filters > distortion > polar coordinates. In the window that appears, select the Rectangular to Polar option and click OK.
Voila! Your panorama is now wrapped in a circle and looks like a small planet photographed from above with a fisheye lens.
5.
Final touch
Check the top center of your photo, it should be smooth and the connection should not be visible. A stamp or a healing brush will help here.
If you prefer your planet, then it's time to create it. You may still have white corners, but you can fill them with the same color you used in the gradient. Re-crop your image and you're done.
Making small planets is extremely easy, you will understand it as soon as you try it. In the future, you can experiment and get unusual, interesting effects. Therefore, do not think that you need to be rigidly attached to the above rules. If you come up with something unusual and interesting, be sure to share it in the comments.
Examples for inspiration.
Here are a few examples showing what is possible when you add a little creativity and imagination to this technique.
Use a photo of a different terrain to create a jagged asteroid effect.
Every amateur photographer must have wondered at some point: how to make one from several pictures panoramic photo ? What is needed for this? Is it difficult? Read on for step-by-step instructions to help you panoramic photo (panorama) without tripod and without much difficulty.
Today I will tell you how to do it easily and simply.
Making a panorama is not easy, but very simple! Step-by-step instruction. Modern programs allows you to make a panorama from pictures, any camera, as long as the frames are superimposed on each other. So that you have no doubts about the ability of your camera to take pictures suitable for making a panorama, for this photography lesson I took a phone camera.
I invite you to repeat all the steps of this instruction with me, using these photos that you can
- download from the link in the archive from my dropbox,
To assemble the panorama, we will use Hugin latest version. At the time of this tutorial, the latest version is 2011.4.0. Hugin is available for Windows, Mac OS X, and Linux. All instructions below are suitable for the version for any OS.
Installing Hugin is easy, just download the installation package and follow the installer's instructions.
When opened, Hugin automatically creates a new project. Select photos for the panorama by clicking the appropriate button.
You can add all the photos at once in one fell swoop.
Hugin defines the properties of the lens itself.
Click "Combine ..." and let's go to drink tea, especially if you don't have the best modern computer or lots of high resolution pictures.
As soon as Hugin merges the images, a panorama preview window will open.
For better view As a result, turn off the grid by unchecking the box at the top of the window.
The panorama preview has several tabs with settings, some of which are of no interest to us at all due to the fact that Hugin has already done the main work on combining images, and the other part of the tabs can still be useful to us.
On the "Projection" tab, we have the ability to change the way images are projected and some other settings. For example, you can see what a panorama would look like if it was shot with a fisheye lens:
However, today our goal is not special effects, but a finished panorama, so we will choose an equidistant projection mode.
On the "Moving on the projection plane" tab, we have the opportunity to align the horizon on all frames, if suddenly it did not align automatically. We can also bend the horizon for more effect:
To return the horizon to its original, even state, press the "Align" button:
On the next Crop tab, click the Auto Crop button to automatically crop the black edges of the panorama.
If the result of automatic cropping does not suit you, you can drag inner edge frame and crop as we need, for example, if we plan to finish the sky and black fields do not bother us.
Close the preview window and click "Create Panorama..."
And then he will offer to come up with a file name for the finished panorama:
We stock up on patience, tea, coffee, jam, cookies, etc., for 5 minutes :-)
Find the resulting panorama file:
We look with any suitable viewer.
For publishing, it is best to convert the panorama to JPEG. This can be done in any graphics editor or popular viewers.
The result is scaled up to 8209 x 1693.
We found out what opportunities panorama photography gives the photographer and what tools will be needed for it. Today we will touch on the practical side of the issue. How to shoot separate frames of a panorama so that when it is stitched together everything fits together without problems?
Taking pictures for gluing a panorama
So, we are at the shooting location and we want to take a panoramic photo.
Thinking about the frame. Where to begin? As always, with artistic intent. Imagine the composition of the future shot: select the subject, foreground, and the like. The difficulty of panoramic shooting is that we cannot see the final frame directly through the viewfinder or camera screen: only its fragments will fit there, from which the panorama will be assembled. Therefore, for such shooting it is very important to develop a special skill - to see the finished frame without the help of a camera. Mark for yourself the boundaries of the future image: what do you want to include in it, and what will you leave outside of it. For example, something like this: "I'll shoot a panoramic shot from that tree on the left to that rock on the right, so that this picturesque house is positioned in the final image according to the rule of thirds." Such a mental plan will help you to proceed effectively, and not just click the camera in all directions, trying to capture the frame with the maximum possible angle review. Lack of thoughtful composition is the main problem with most panoramas made by beginners, so think carefully about your future shot before you start shooting!
Tripod. In order for the shots to converge into a single panorama, it is important to take them strictly from one point. A tripod will help with this. In addition, this device will allow you to shoot at slow shutter speeds. This is especially important if you have a foreground close to the camera (which is almost always the case).
What is a panorama made of? Of course, a panoramic shot consists of several separate frames! But what is the right way to make these photos so that they fit together well into a single image? To do this, you need to shoot "overlap", turning the camera on a tripod. Each subsequent frame must capture a certain part of the previous picture. Naturally, the less they overlap, the fewer frames will be required for the final panorama, but at the same time, there is a higher chance of making mistakes when shooting. Panorama shot on hastily, may not add up to a single image. Therefore, in order for the frames to converge confidently, the overlap of one frame on another must be at least one third. And the more it is, the better. How many frames should be in a panorama? As much as you like - it's up to you. Start not from the number of frames, but from the plot being shot: just make right amount pictures with the necessary overlay.
Shooting images that don't overlap well is the main reason novice photographers don't stick together in their final panorama. So pay special attention to this moment.
An attentive reader may notice that in most examples the panoramas are assembled from vertical frames. There is nothing fundamental here: you can glue both vertical and horizontal photos. But I find working with vertical frames more convenient. Especially if we are talking about a single-row panorama: in this case, we can get a more detailed image (since the wide side of the captured frames becomes the narrow side of the panoramic frame). In addition, a vertical frame allows you to more accurately assess the overall exposure of the subject (we have enough sky in the frame, enough ground). Also, when shooting vertical shots, it is much more convenient to use gradient filters.
"Multi-storey" panoramas. Often, in order to get a sufficient viewing angle when shooting, gluing several vertical frames in a row is not enough. Gluing multi-row panoramas allows you to seriously expand the possibilities of a panorama. This method is not much different from the one described above. It's just that in the process of shooting, we do not make one series of shots, but several. So you can achieve any viewing angle. The advantage of a multi-row panorama is the ability to seriously increase the viewing angle when shooting, as well as the resolution of the finished image. But there are also disadvantages. For example, when shooting a multi-row panorama, it is much more difficult to use gradient filters.
Multi-row panoramas are somewhat more difficult to shoot and glue together. Therefore, I advise you to first practice with single-row panoramas and only then move on to more complex, "multi-story" options.
An example of a multi-row panorama.
Exposure settings, bracketing and HDR. Exposure parameters for panoramic shooting are adjusted in the same way as when working with single frames. Only one thing is important: all frames of the panorama must be taken with the same exposure settings. Therefore, the panorama must be shot in manual mode (M), with the automatic ISO detection function turned off. Otherwise, the final pictures will turn out to be different in brightness, and you will be tormented to bring them to the same look.
Please note that your panoramic scene will most likely have a large brightness difference: it may happen that in some frames of the panorama there will be only the ground and shadow, and in others - a colorful sky with a dawn sun. But the exposure parameters in this case, as we have already said, should be the same everywhere. Therefore, it is important to adjust the exposure so that details are well developed in both the lightest and darkest parts of the panorama. Modern devices Nikon D810, Nikon D750, Nikon D610, and more simple models have the widest dynamic range. This means that with a competent exposure, it is often possible to pull out details from one frame in both dark and light areas. However, this requires masterful fine-tuning of the exposure, which is not always possible in field conditions. To insure yourself against mistakes, I recommend shooting each frame of a future panorama with exposure bracketing (when the camera takes a series of shots with a certain exposure step). The result is a series of frames with different brightness. With a good set of circumstances, you can easily pull out all the details from the most successfully exposed frame of this series. Otherwise, you can glue an HDR image from this series, and already assemble a panorama from the prepared HDR images. In addition, gradient filters will help to qualitatively expose the frame: they are able to darken the bright sky without touching the rest of the frame.
RAW or JPEG? Since panoramic shooting involves computer processing of images, of course, it will be more convenient to work with the RAW format. However, if you just want to practice panorama shooting, you can work with JPEG, but then it is recommended to enable lens distortion and vignetting correction in the camera menu so that later your shots fit one with the other. Note that such a correction through the menu of the device will be available only when using native Nikon optics.
By the way, when working with the RAW format, you can also correct optical distortions in one click. Such a mechanism is implemented, for example, in the RAW converter for Nikon Capture NX-D cameras.
White balance. If suddenly you decide to shoot a panorama not in RAW format, but in JPEG, make sure that the white balance on all photos is the same. I definitely recommend shooting panoramic shots in RAW: this format is much more flexible in processing, and it will also allow you to adjust the white balance after shooting, when working with images on a computer.
Focusing. As with frame exposure, you can focus when shooting panoramas in the same way as when working with single shots. And in the same way, focusing should be the same on all frames of the panorama. If the focus will "walk", most likely, it will not work to glue them together. Therefore, having focused once, immediately before shooting a specific panorama, it is better to turn off autofocus altogether. And be careful not to accidentally move the lens focus ring. If the focus is off, it is better to reshoot everything from the very beginning. When shooting a landscape panorama, it is convenient to focus on the hyperfocal distance. If you want to take a panoramic portrait with a shallow depth of field, then of course the focus should always be on your subject.
Difficulties with panoramic photography
Panoramic shooting is a very powerful technique in the photographer's arsenal, but there are scenes that are very difficult to shoot as a panorama. Remember: if there is a lot of movement in your frame, especially in the foreground (for example, if you are shooting a forest and a strong wind is blowing, swaying tree branches), then it is better to shoot such a scene without panoramic stitching, in one frame. Otherwise, it will be difficult to bring together branches that are on different frames in different position. The same applies to scenes with dynamic water, surf, people and animals. If you shoot waves, they will look completely different on different frames and it will be as difficult as possible to glue them together. There are exceptions to this rule. For example, frames with a mirror water surface easy to stick to each other. Another exception is water moving evenly, without drops. If in the sea surf the oncoming waves differ slightly in their strength and height, then the flow in a mountain river moves absolutely stably, without sharp drops in its movement. This allows you to take pictures from mountain rivers and waterfalls in gluing, without fear of any special problems.
A simple solution to the motion problem is to place a moving object within one frame of the panorama so that it does not fit completely into it. We can take his image from this frame and avoid the described problems.
In addition, you should not shoot panoramas using polarizing and neutral density filters with variable density. Such filters on wide-angle optics can produce uneven darkening of the frame: as a result, in the final panorama you can get, for example, a mottled sky.
Parallax and how to deal with it
Before I plunge into the theoretical jungle, I will say: you can start shooting panoramas without all the devices described below! They are not always needed, in most cases only a camera, a tripod and your inspiration will suffice! In most cases, modern panorama stitching programs perfectly “digest” frames with parallax and give a decent result. Also, small flaws in gluing can be corrected by retouching photos in a graphics editor.
Parallax is a change in the apparent position of an object relative to a distant background, depending on the position of the observer. This effect can play a very cruel joke with the photographer. If the plot includes a closely spaced foreground, its details on different frames may change their position relative to objects in the background. All this threatens that the final panorama will be assembled with errors or not assembled at all.
Flaws in gluing caused by parallax
How to be? There is a common stereotype that parallax can only be combated with the help of special panoramic tripod heads. However, such heads are difficult to use, bulky, and expensive. Yes, they will help get rid of parallax, but using them in the field is fraught with a huge number of difficulties. At the same time, they are really needed only in very difficult cases: for example, when creating spherical panoramas with a 360-degree view.
In terms of the quality of the photo component, smartphones are catching up with cameras with might and main. The current level of development allows you to take decent quality pictures. Having a small photo studio in your pocket, many people think about creating panoramas. Because there are so many around beautiful places, which will not fit into one small picture. However, having no experience in creating panoramic photos, the result is a gluing of nondescript shots, which is embarrassing to show. But it's never too late to learn, so we'll give you a couple of tips.
Software component
Found beautiful view, but don't know how to make a panorama? Don't be foolish. Both Android and iOS have standard tools for creating panoramic shots. Don't know where they are? Just go to the camera app on your device and find the corresponding icon. Don't like the default app? Then there are alternatives.
Android
Pano
Panorama
Like the previous one, the program is easy to use, but the algorithm for creating a snapshot is slightly different. You do not shoot certain scenes in turn, but simply rotate the device in a circle, after pressing the shutter button. The advantage is the presence of some filters for processing photos and the ability to turn on the flash. sharing in social media is also present.
iOS
360 panorama
Cycloramic
Extremely interesting solution to create panoramas. The program is designed for the lazy. You don't even have to take the picture yourself. Just place your iPhone on a flat, hard surface and launch Cycloramic. Due to the vibration motor, the phone will turn itself. You will only have to view the result.
If you have decided which program to use, then do not rush into battle right away. Having good technique doesn't make your shots a masterpiece. Having a driver's license does not make you a racer. A bat in the trunk doesn't make you an athlete. Same with photography. Having bought reflex camera for unrealistic money you do not become a photographer. Before you start your long journey of creating panoramas, check out our tips.
follow the light
The advantage of panoramas is also their disadvantage. When creating a panorama, you will have to shoot a wide area in front of you. The light in this area may fall unevenly. Then one part of your panorama will be very bright, and in the other you will not make out anything in the dark. Be sure to take this into account. Try to find a place with the same light balance. If you are indoors, then do not forget to follow the shadows. You should be at a point where you can see about an equal amount of shaded and light objects.
Follow the movement
Panoramas are usually made in busy places and this presents a certain difficulty. If people in the area you are shooting are moving, then when merging the final image, the picture may upset you. The presence of wind is also worth considering. You won't be satisfied with the fact that one half of the tree is tilted in one direction, and the other in the other? One way or another, this will be displayed on the finished image, which will ruin its quality. Try to wait for calm weather if possible.
Hold your phone more confidently.
It doesn't matter how good your phone's stabilization is if your hands are shaky. Shaking the phone at the time of shooting is sure to be reflected in the picture. You will either oil it or it will come out cut off at the top or bottom. In general, you did not expect such a result. Try to keep the phone steady and not shake it. If not, then find some flat and hard surface and place the phone on it.
Learn to move slowly
If you don't have a tripod or an area to mount your smartphone, you'll have to turn around yourself. This must be done slowly and patiently. You don't need to make sharp turns. Centimeter by centimeter turn around its axis. And most importantly - try to stay at the same point where you started shooting.
Now you are ready
Now, having some knowledge, you can safely start creating panoramas. Be bold. The more you try, the better you will get. Moreover, modern smartphones are small photo labs in your pocket. A little effort and you will not believe your success. Just do not forget about our tips and everything will work out for you.
