Repair of cameras with a faulty CCD matrix. Repair of digital cameras
Lens failure is the most common camera failure. Causes of lens failure. Characteristics of lens malfunctions and its symptoms.
The most common among other camera failures is a lens malfunction. Keep in mind that 40% of all service calls are due to lens failure.
The reasons that led to the breakdown of the camera lens can be very different. At the same time, the variable range of symptoms that indicate such a malfunction is even wider.
Let's deal with possible reasons that cause the lens to malfunction. Most often, the human factor plays a role here. For example, if you drop a camera with an open lens, this will inevitably lead to mechanical damage and displacement of elements. Damage to the internal components of the lens is also possible.
It is also possible to accidentally turn on the camera when it is in a bag/case, for example. In this case, the lens extends, meeting an obstacle. This will also lead to breakage. Thus, the gears of the gearbox, as well as the lens guides and internal elements, will fail.
Seasonal breakdowns include getting sand inside the lens. This usually happens in the summer or at the height of the beach photo shoots. Keep in mind that one grain of sand is enough to jam the lens gear. Note that there are also cases when, during repairs, a symbolic hill of sand was shaken out of the lens.
Sand tends to stick to components lubricated with silicone grease, which leads to a complication in the process of repairing and cleaning the lens. Here you need to disassemble it to small details.
Also, damage to the lens can be caused by liquid, which, through the negligence of the user, gets into it. In this case, first of all, the electronics of the camera fails. Since the lens of a digital camera is equipped with a variety of optoelectronic sensors, brush motors, stepping fluids and electronic components, various fluids are very dangerous for its functioning.
In addition, the drying of the liquid is accompanied by the appearance of spots and cloudy stains on the surface of the lenses. Repairing a “wet” lens should not be postponed, since this is a very complicated procedure.
Very often, when a digital camera lens is jammed, the photographer himself tries to help him move his hands, turns the camera on and off. Some manage to pour grease or alcohol into the lens. All these actions are fraught with sad consequences, and also lead to the complication of repair. It can also make lens repair impossible at all.
Now consider the signs of a broken lens. There are very obvious signs. Let's visualize them. The lens is fully or partially extended, visually skewed or folded along its axis during frontal examination. The lens refuses to move when the camera is turned on. In this case, he may make attempts to open / close by twitching.
The lens is partially or completely covered either. Visual inspection did not reveal any damage. However, the inclusion is accompanied by a buzzing and crackling of the device, and the lens itself does not move. This indicates damage to the gears of the lens gearbox. In addition, this may indicate that sand has entered the lens.
When the camera is turned on, after a while, the following message appears on the display:
lens error
error E18
Turn the power off and on again
In this case, you need to turn off and turn on the power again. When you turn on the camera, the lens moves in and out a couple of times in a row. Finally, an error message appears on the screen. Also, the camera may turn off completely when the lens is extended or retracted.
The camera turns on, but the display appears blurry and out of focus. After a while, an error message appears or the camera turns off.
The camera turns on without problems, while the lens also moves out and a clear image is displayed. However, after shooting, it turns out that the card is overexposed or there are many horizontal stripes.
The camera turns on without problems, the lens moves out, and the necessary service information, menu items and more are displayed on the display. However, there is no image on the card, it turns out completely black.
All of the above causes of failure in 80% of cases can be eliminated by repair. At the same time, it is important that you do not try to repair the damage, disassemble or lubricate the camera yourself! If you resorted to such actions, the lens must be replaced.
CCD (charge coupled device) is a photosensitive charge-coupled device (CCD). A typical CCD sensor contains several thousand photosensitive elements in one device, serves as an image receiver in cameras, which acts as a light-electrical signal converter. Elements, otherwise called pixels, have dimensions of 36x13 microns; a rectangular matrix is built from them, which is a light-sensitive surface.
Camera malfunctions with defective CCD matrices are not uncommon. First of all, this applies to cameras from 2000-2004. release, when the defect of the CCD sensors was of the nature of an "epidemic". Manufacturers of photo equipment with a worldwide reputation, such as Canon, Nikon, Sony were forced to officially announce the problems of CCD matrices in their products.
The list of models of devices where a defect could appear was depressingly large, which, if desired, could be fairly replenished. The list includes not only cameras, but also camcorders, PDAs.
Explain why the same defect of SSD sensors occurs in devices different firms, it is possible that most manufacturers use matrices of the same developer and manufacturer in their devices.
We did not conduct any research and did not study the reasons that led to such sad consequences, but we will only express our opinion.
In our opinion, the manufacturer of CCD matrices from a country with high level life and, accordingly, with the road labor force in order to reduce the cost of manufactured products, he was transferred to a country with less cheap labor (well, you know, now it's "fashionable"). At some point in the reorganization of production, a technological failure occurred.
There is no other way to explain such a long period of production of defective products.
Camera malfunctions that require replacement of the CCD matrix
The manifestation of a malfunction can be varied - there is no image from the lens, the image is normal, but there are horizontal stripes on the captured frame, the picture is matte, the last malfunction is very similar to wrong work shutter, but also due to a faulty matrix, the defect came across repeatedly, the image was smeared with all the colors of the rainbow (this defect was also called "northern lights"). Below is a "gallery of photographs taken by cameras with faulty CCD sensors", where you can clearly see all the variety of manifestations of defects.
Reasons or what caused this diversity: 
If you look at the faulty matrix through a magnifying glass from the side of the working surface, you can see torn conductors going from the CCD matrix crystal to its terminals (see photo 2, the torn terminal is indicated by an arrow). The manifestation of a malfunction depends on the number of the output that is torn off or has poor contact.
Briefly, in the form of an exchange of experience or the secrets of camera repair, we will consider several models that came to our workshop, indicating the models and type of matrix:
1) Camera Sony DSC-F717, the image from the lens is smeared with all the colors of the rainbow. Failure of the CCD array installed on the board marked CD-408 1-686-185-1
2)
The workshop received a digital camera Nikon E5700. The client thoroughly prepared for the trip to the workshop, stated the malfunction of the camera in writing (I publish it below without editing)
- The first signs of malfunction associated with the image began to appear about 1.5 years ago. The image in the viewfinder looked black and white, very low contrast, separated by light horizontal stripes located on the same distance from each other. The number of stripes was from 15 to 20. The malfunction did not disappear after turning the camera on and off. After some time, the camera began to work normally. Over time, the type of failure has changed. Now the malfunction looks like a very smeared image.
- Faulty, in this digital camera, CCD matrix, matrix type ICX282AK, after replacing which the device worked normally.
3) Minolta Dimage A1 camera repair. There is no image from the lens, the image is smeared or horizontal stripes- defective CCD matrix. Matrix type ICX465AQ, manufacturer Sony.
4) Digital camera Minolta Dimage 7i malfunction of the CCD matrix, matrix type ICX282AQF.
5) Digital camera Sony DSC-P12 CCD matrix ICX455AQF.
Photo gallery of pictures taken by cameras with faulty CCD matrices
 |
 |
 |
Lens failure- this should be the most common failure digital cameras. Some common error messages that may appear on the display of cameras with this issue include “E18 lens”(“E18 lens error” in older Canon models), “ACCESS” (access error) (Sony), “Zoom Error” (zoom error) (Fuji), “Lens Obstructed” (“lens problems”) (Kodak) , “lens>error, restartcamera” (“lens error, restart camera”) or simply “lens error” (“lens error”) (almost all camera manufacturers use this option these days). Some cameras may not display anything at all, but only emit sound signal, the lens retracts and the camera turns off. Sometimes the lens won't even pop out.
The problem is actually quite common with all models of digital cameras. This is usually sand or other small particles that get into the lens extension mechanism and the autofocus mechanism. Or the camera was dropped with the lens extended. Perhaps the camera was turned on, but the lens was prevented from extending (for example, accidentally turned on in a bag). It happens that after the lens is extended, the batteries run out and the camera turns off with the lens extended. Believe it or not, one of the causes of lens failure is the use of cases and purses. Sand, mud, fibers, etc. accumulate at the bottom of the body. These materials like to cling to the body of the camera due to the electrostatic charge when rubbed (especially in cases where the case is soft and fleecy). After these particles find their way into the lens mechanism, error messages occur. I have a lot of Canon cameras and never use cases for this very reason.
The owner of the camera with this problem, perhaps, does not make any sense to contact the warranty workshop. Many camera manufacturers will not fix this issue under warranty. According to them, this is due to damage to the camera due to impact or sand or debris trapped in the lens extension mechanism (none of which is covered by the warranty). The repair cost is usually close to or more than what the camera is actually worth. Since warranty workshops in most cases change a defective lens to a new one, the cost of which as a spare part is high.
Fortunately, about half of the cameras that suffer from this problem can be easily fixed by one of the following methods. None of these methods require disassembly of the camera, although some of them can cause other damage if overused and not taken care of. If the camera is still under warranty, before applying any of these, please visit your camera manufacturer's warranty shop to see if the repair will be covered under warranty or to determine how much they will charge for a paid repair. Who knows, you might get lucky. But if they quote an amount that is higher than the cost of your camera, you may want to consider the following methods. Here is a video description of each of the troubleshooting methods, followed by a detailed description of them.
The methods are listed in order of risk of damage to your camera. Therefore, you should try them in that order. And remember that these methods (in particular, No. 6 and 7) should only be considered for cameras for which the warranty period has expired, the indicated repair cost would be excessive. If these methods did not lead to the correction of the error, it is possible to contact a paid service, the cost of repairs in which is lower than in the warranty one.
Method 1: Remove the batteries from the camera, wait a few minutes. Insert a fresh set of batteries (preferably rechargeable NiMH 2500 mAh or higher) and turn on the camera. If you have been using batteries for more than a year, consider purchasing new batteries as they may not provide enough power to start the camera.
Method 1a: If the new batteries do not work, try pressing and holding the Menu, Function, Set, or OK button while turning on the camera. This, along with Method 1 and Method 2, sometimes works to correct lens errors that occur due to battery drain when the lens is extended.
Method 1b: For those of you who were able to access the camera menu with this error, try searching for and selecting "reset" to reset the camera. On some Canon cameras, this requires holding down the menu button with the power button for up to 10 seconds. Note, however, that a lens error may sometimes prevent the reset option, and thus the option may not be displayed.
Method 2: If the camera's batteries are completely dead while its lens was still open, the camera may show a lens error or not start correctly when new batteries are installed. Remove the memory card and do not insert into the camera, then install new batteries. When you turn on the camera without a card, it may come back to life as this causes a reset on some models. Error E30 (for older Canons) means you don't have installed card, so you should turn off the camera, insert the card and turn it on again.
Method 3: Insert its audio/video (AV) cable into the camera and turn on the camera. Connecting the cable ensures that the camera's LCD screen remains off while the process starts. This way, additional battery power will be available to the camera lens motor during startup. This extra power can be helpful in overcoming dust or sand that can interfere with the lens. If an AV cable does not fix the lens error on its own, consider keeping this cable installed as a crawler when trying to fix 4, 5, and 7 as a means to ensure additional power to help in the process of these attempts. But note that I do not recommend keeping the cable installed during the Fix 6 process as this may damage the AV port when trying to turn on the camera.
Method 4: Place the camera on its back on a table with the lens pointing towards the ceiling. Press and hold the shutter button and at the same time press the power button. The idea is that the camera will try to autofocus while the lens is extended. We hope that while the lens extends and the autofocus lens moves, the guide pins will sit in place.
Method 5: Use a blower to blow compressed air through the gaps between the lens cups. The idea is to blow sand or other debris stuck in the lens mechanism. Other purge options are using a hair dryer on a cool setting or sucking air out of the lens gaps (be careful with this!). Some use a vacuum cleaner for this.
Now we are entering the area of potentially dangerous ways camera rescue. There is certainly some risk, so be careful when doing the following:
Method 5a: If you do notice sand particles in the cavity around the lens barrel and the airflow doesn't help to dislodge them, consider using tissue paper or a sewing needle to help clean them up. Pay Special attention to avoid scratching the lens barrel with a needle. Also, I don't recommend probing too deep around the paper lens barrel (don't go deeper than 1cm). I especially don't recommend deep probing around the outermost (largest) part of the lens barrel, as you can knock out the anti-dust gasket that is just inside that gap.
Method 6 : Hit the rubber cover of the USB socket repeatedly with the intent to dislodge any particles that may interfere with the lens of the lens. It is also possible to tap the camera body with the palm of your hand. Many people report success with this method. However, there are also some obvious possibilities for internal components to be damaged or dislodged using this method, such as cables falling out of connectors, or LCD screen cracks.
Method 6a: This is a variation of Method 6 and is applicable if the lens barrels are straight (not bent by impact). In other words, try this if there is no obvious mechanical damage barrels, which causes the problem itself. With the lens pointing down, try to "softly" tap the lens from all sides with small object such as a pen or pencil. The idea is to try to knock out sand particles that can interfere with lens barrel movement. Simultaneously try turning the camera on and off while you do this.
Method 7a: Please note that this correction method is only for cameras whose lens extends, then stops after going part of the way, and then returns to its original position again. Try to grab and hold the smallest front lens cup in the most extended position without letting the lens come back. Inspect and clean the area around the lens cups from dust and sand. Turn the camera off and on again. If the lens extends further, grab the front glass again without letting it come back. Repeat cleaning again. Turn the camera off and on again to check if the problem is gone.
Method 7b: The most extreme fix. Just be aware that this is the absolute last resort before throwing your camera away, and there is an obvious potential for further camera damage with this method. You may consider this technique if the lens is visibly and visibly damaged, bent, or twisted, such as from a fall. In this case, try thinking of the lens as a shoulder dislocation. Try to force the lens to straighten up and stand back in place. In this case, the pins of the lens cups will become in their guides. Your goal is to try to transplant them by straightening the lens. Listen for a "click" confirming that the pins have jumped into the guides, and immediately stop any further effort at that point. All more people report the success of this method compared to any other methods.
Variations of Method 7b: Gently pulling, rotating, and/or twisting the lens barrel while pressing the power button. Check the lens for any hint of tilt or unevenness. Again, the goal is to try to straighten or straighten the barrels if they are twisted or twisted. Another option is to look for uneven gaps around the lens barrel and then push down on the side of the lens barrel that has the most gap (note, pushing the lens barrel all the way down is not recommended as it can get stuck there). Again, with all of the above, you should listen to a “click”, which means the pins of the glasses fell into the guide grooves. If you hear this sound, stop immediately and try turning on the camera.
How to fix your camera yourselfHere is a quote that caught my eye (from the dialogue between the client and the master of the workshop):
- "How much does it cost to repair or replace the lens of a Power Shot SX 10IS camera (minimum and maximum cost) - a post-warranty camera.
The camera did not fall. just gave a lens error. What is the repair time?
- "Good afternoon, Marina.
The cost of repairing the SX10 lens is 4800 rubles, lens replacement is most likely not required. The term is usually 1-2 weeks, depending on the complexity of the problem. All this is preliminary information, the final answer to your questions will be given by diagnostics, which we have for free.
Regards, Alexey..."
And here is the material that I found on the Internet ... Maybe you shouldn’t lay out money right away? Need to try....
Lens failure - this has to be the most common digital camera failure. Some common error messages that may appear on the display of cameras with this problem include “E18 lens” (“E18 lens error” in older Canon models), “ACCESS” (access error) (Sony), “Zoom Error” (error zoom) (Fuji), "LensObstructed" ("lens problem") (Kodak) , "lens>error, restartcamera" ("lens error, restart camera") or just "lens error" ("lens error") (almost all camera manufacturers have recently used this option). Some cameras may not show anything at all on the display, but only emit a beep, the lens drives in and the camera turns off. Sometimes the lens won't even pop out.
The problem is actually quite common with all models of digital cameras. This is usually sand or other small particles that get into the lens extension mechanism and the autofocus mechanism. Or the camera was dropped with the lens extended. Perhaps the camera was turned on, but the lens was prevented from extending (for example, accidentally turned on in a bag). It happens that after the lens is extended, the batteries run out and the camera turns off with the lens extended. Believe it or not, one of the causes of lens failure is the use of cases and purses. Sand, mud, fibers, etc. accumulate at the bottom of the body. These materials like to cling to the body of the camera due to the electrostatic charge when rubbed (especially in cases where the case is soft and fleecy). After these particles find their way into the lens mechanism, error messages occur. I have a lot of Canon cameras and never use cases for this very reason.
The owner of the camera with this problem, perhaps, does not make any sense to contact the warranty workshop. Many camera manufacturers will not fix this issue under warranty. According to them, this is due to damage to the camera due to impact or sand or debris trapped in the lens extension mechanism (none of which is covered by the warranty). The repair cost is usually close to or more than what the camera is actually worth. Since warranty workshops in most cases change a defective lens to a new one, the cost of which as a spare part is high.
Fortunately, about half of the cameras that suffer from this problem can be easily fixed by one of the following methods. None of these methods require disassembly of the camera, although some of them can cause other damage if overused and not taken care of. If the camera is still under warranty, before applying any of these, please visit your camera manufacturer's warranty shop to see if the repair will be covered under warranty or to determine how much they will charge for a paid repair. Who knows, you might get lucky. But if they quote an amount that is higher than the cost of your camera, you may want to consider the following methods. Here is a video description of each of the troubleshooting methods, followed by a detailed description of them.
The methods are listed in order of risk of damage to your camera. Therefore, you should try them in that order. And remember that these methods (in particular, No. 6 and 7) should only be considered for cameras for which the warranty period has expired, the indicated repair cost would be excessive. If these methods did not lead to the correction of the error, it is possible to contact a paid service, the cost of repairs in which is lower than in the warranty one.
Method 1: Remove the batteries from the camera, wait a few minutes. Insert a fresh set of batteries (preferably rechargeable NiMH 2500 mAh or higher) and turn on the camera. If you have been using batteries for more than a year, consider purchasing new batteries as they may not provide enough power to start the camera.
Method 1a: If the new batteries do not work, try pressing and holding the Menu, Function, Set, or OK button while turning on the camera. This, along with Method 1 and Method 2, sometimes works to correct lens errors that occur due to battery drain when the lens is extended.
Method 1b: For those of you who were able to access the camera menu with this error, try searching for and selecting "reset" to reset the camera. On some Canon cameras, this requires holding down the menu button with the power button for up to 10 seconds. Note, however, that a lens error may sometimes prevent the reset option, and thus the option may not be displayed.
Method 2: If the camera's batteries are completely dead while its lens was still open, the camera may show a lens error or not start correctly when new batteries are installed. Remove the memory card and do not insert into the camera, then install new batteries. When you turn on the camera without a card, it may come back to life as this causes a reset on some models. Error E30 (for older Canons) means that you do not have a card installed, so you should turn off the camera, insert the card and turn it on again.
Method 3: Insert its audio/video (AV) cable into the camera and turn on the camera. Connecting the cable ensures that the camera's LCD screen remains off while the process starts. This way, additional battery power will be available to the camera lens motor during startup. This extra power can be helpful in overcoming dust or sand that can interfere with the lens. If an AV cable does not fix the lens error on its own, I consider keeping this cable installed as a skimmer when trying to fix 4, 5, and 7 as a means to provide extra power to aid in the process of these attempts. But note that I do not recommend keeping the cable installed during the Fix 6 process as this may damage the AV port when trying to turn on the camera.
Method 4: Place the camera on its back on a table with the lens pointing towards the ceiling. Press and hold the shutter button and at the same time press the power button. The idea is that the camera will try to autofocus while the lens is extended. We hope that while the lens extends and the autofocus lens moves, the guide pins will sit in place.
Method 5: Use a blower to blow compressed air through the gaps between the lens cups. The idea is to blow sand or other debris stuck in the lens mechanism. Other purge options are using a hair dryer on a cool setting or sucking air out of the lens gaps (be careful with this!). Some use a vacuum cleaner for this.
Now we are entering the realm of potentially dangerous ways to save the camera. There is certainly some risk, so be careful when doing the following:
Method 5a: If you do notice sand particles in the cavity around the lens barrel and the airflow doesn't help to dislodge them, consider using tissue paper or a sewing needle to help remove them. Pay special attention not to scratch the lens barrel with the needle. Also, I don't recommend probing too deep around the paper lens barrel (don't go deeper than 1cm). I especially don't recommend deep probing around the outermost (largest) part of the lens barrel, as you can knock out the anti-dust gasket that is just inside that gap.
Method 6: Repeatedly hit the rubber cap on the USB port with the intent to dislodge any particles that might interfere with the lens of the lens. It is also possible to tap the camera body with the palm of your hand. Many people report success with this method. However, there are also some obvious possibilities for internal components to be damaged or dislodged using this method, such as cables falling out of connectors, or LCD screen cracks.
Method 6a: This is a variation of Method 6 and is applicable if the lens barrels are straight (not bent by impact). In other words, try this unless there is obvious mechanical damage to the barrels that is causing the problem. With the lens pointing down, try "softly" tapping the lens from all sides with a small object such as a pen or pencil. The idea is to try to knock out sand particles that can interfere with lens barrel movement. Simultaneously try turning the camera on and off while you do this.
1.
Method 7a: Please note that this correction method is only for cameras whose lens extends, then stops after going part of the way, and then returns to its original position. Try to grab and hold the smallest front lens cup in the most extended position without letting the lens come back. Inspect and clean the area around the lens cups from dust and sand. Turn the camera off and on again. If the lens extends further, grab the front glass again without letting it come back. Repeat cleaning again. Turn the camera off and on again to check if the problem is gone.
Method 7b: The most extreme fix. Just be aware that this is the absolute last resort before throwing your camera away, and there is an obvious potential for further camera damage with this method. You may consider this technique if the lens is visibly and visibly damaged, bent, or twisted, such as from a fall. In this case, try thinking of the lens as a shoulder dislocation. Try to force the lens to straighten up and stand back in place. In this case, the pins of the lens cups will become in their guides. Your goal is to try to transplant them by straightening the lens. Listen for a "click" confirming that the pins have jumped into the guides, and immediately stop any further effort at that point. More and more people are reporting the success of this method compared to any other methods.
Variations of Method 7b: Gently pulling, rotating, and/or twisting the lens barrel while pressing the power button. Check the lens for any hint of tilt or unevenness. Again, the goal is to try to straighten or straighten the barrels if they are twisted or twisted. Another option is to look for uneven gaps around the lens barrel and then push down on the side of the lens barrel that has the most gap (note, pushing the lens barrel all the way down is not recommended as it can get stuck there). Again, with all of the above, you should listen to a “click”, which means the pins of the glasses fell into the guide grooves. If you hear this sound, stop immediately and try turning on the camera.
We have already considered the malfunctions in which the designer of the camera is to blame. No matter how the user takes care of the camera, the malfunction still comes.
Time passes and some cameras from the previous review are no longer being repaired (they are not left with the population or are so outdated that they are not being repaired). New regulars have appeared on the shelves in service centers.
Well, the trends are such that a modern camera is becoming cheaper and works less. "Shoals" in production are more and more. Some cameras are striking in abundance simultaneously occurring breakdowns, and all of them occur through no fault of the user.
Olympus FE340 shutter cable broken.
Three defect.
- Fractured lens cable(mentioned in the last article, they incorrectly laid the cable at the factory). By the way, a number of models suffer from the same defect: Olympus FE 330, Olympus mju 840, Olympus mju 820 and some others.
- Fracture of the shutter loop. The cable is 2mm longer than necessary, and the mechanism breaks it. This defect is Olympus cameras FE 46, Olympus FE 47, Pentax M 50, M 60, L 50.
- Matrix marriage- a completely new defect. Appeared relatively recently, but has a massive character. Vertical streaks appear on the image, colors are distorted, or the image disappears completely. Moreover, the latter can also be caused by a defect in the shutter loop. The manufacturer of matrices Panasonic is to blame, we have already identified about 5 models of matrices that hardly survive to this day. There are five matrix models, and more than 3 dozen camera models.
In connection with the last defect, the repair and diagnosis of this model is difficult, sometimes it is necessary to eliminate successively the first two malfunctions to understand that the matrix has already failed. Its replacement is noticeably more expensive than the replacement of loops.
Immediately after the Olympus FE340 follows OlympusSP-560. Again, three defects, unrelated to each other.
- First appeared defect of the piezo-stabilizer of the matrix. The matrix is moved horizontally and vertically by the so-called. piezoactuators (fragile crystals that generate an ultrasonic wave, which moves the matrix). The crystals break, the system stops working properly, the camera says “zoom error”, “lens error”. Its brothers in design (Olympus SP 550, SP 565, SP 570, SP 590) similarly suffer from this defect.
- Matrix failure. Still, the matrix there is the same as on the FE -340. It's a shame that with malfunction No. 1 it is impossible to diagnose malfunction No. 2.
- Battery cover splits in half exactly in the place where the engineers decided to save on a metal plate.
Here is a crack that cuts through the battery cover of the Olympus SP-560 camera.
Olympus mju840, three defects:
- Lens cable crushed by the display frame (somewhere we heard it ...)
- Bracket flies off stabilizer frame
- Defect matrix(yes, yes, the same as on the first two devices)
Analyzing our repair accounting database, you can see a funny picture: the most popular device in repair is just the Olympus FE -340. 52 hits in repairs in one year. Behind him - Olympus mju 700, with 51 entries.
Nikon S 3100, Nikon S 4100, Nikon S 4150, Nikon S 2600 and some others who got the same lens. What those who designed it were thinking is unknown.
The lens is extremely compact, but the zoom range (“zoom”) is 5 times. It is arranged like a nesting doll. Many barrels - and all moving forward. There are many points of friction - and when dust gets in, it becomes harder and harder for the motor to turn the rings. A lens of a different design in such a situation will simply jam, immediately the consequences are worse. In this lens, the ring gear is for some reason made of extremely soft plastic; as the load increases, two teeth are cut off. As a result, the lens can no longer reach the working position, it chirps loudly, the tubes twitch at a position of 1 cm from the folded state. If you pull the lens at the moment of turning on, the camera will work normally until the next turn off.
Defective Nikon S3100 lens ring. Two missing teeth are clearly visible.
Canon A1000, Canon A1100, Canon A3000 and some others.
The fault is again connected to the loop. The camera takes overexposed pictures, pictures with stripes, an error occurs after a minute E 32 even in preview mode.
The reason is the shutter / stabilizer cable, which loses elasticity over time, and gets between the moving parts of the lens, is pinched and torn. The malfunction is not yet widespread, but over time, a large number of cameras, not only old ones (A1000), but also relatively “fresh” ones (A3100), are expected to have this problem. The repair consists in replacing the entire cable.
Sony H 10, H 3, H 20 - flash defect.
The flash cable on the Sony DSC-H10 in the "naked" state. Everything seems to be fine..
Over time, these cameras fail built-in flash. The head with the lamp “shoots off” there, and the appearance of a defect is associated with this. The lamp is connected to the device by a cable, which tends to break. The situation is aggravated by the huge values of the current passing through this loop (tens of amperes!). When the slightest crack appears on the cable, the resistance of this section of the circuit slightly increases, the discharge current of the lamp heats up the section of increased resistance, the crack melts, the resistance still increases ... This continues until the crack burns completely and completely breaks the contact.
And here is the crack. Everything is as it should, burnt, contact is completely absent.
Views: 129079
