DIY table with adjustable top. How to make a table with your own hands. Connections and legs
For greater convenience, manual circular saw can be mounted on the table. This design will help you process and saw quickly and without problems. wooden parts.
Working with a circular saw mounted on a special table greatly simplifies the cutting process and is safe when using special tools.
In this article we will tell you how to make a hand-held circular saw with your own hands.
Circular saw table design
The table base for a circular saw can be wooden or metal.
The tabletop is made of metal or sheet wood materials. A hole is made in it for the circular saw blade.
Supports ride along guides in the tabletop, which move timber and any other sawing material.
First of all, the table should be comfortable, stable (not wobble!), the surface of the tabletop should be flat. These factors will help a person avoid injury during work.
The hole in the base is cut for a specific brand of saw
Before you start cutting the material and assembling the circular table, you need to calculate its dimensions and make a drawing.
The hole in the base must correspond to the dimensions of the circular saw platform. For each brand of saw this will be a specific size.
The slab installed on the tabletop should not overhang the table to one side - the base must be resistant to external mechanical loads.
The dimensions of the tabletop must correspond to the flow.
For some, a folding table is enough, small table with removable circular saw. People who have a spacious workshop need a full-fledged table for a circular saw or even a circular saw.
Note: if you plan to leave materials on the table while working, then the area of the tabletop should be at least square meter. Optimal size for such a table 120 x 120 cm.
Materials from which you can make a table for cutting wood:
- solid wood;
- Chipboard, chipboard, MDF, plywood;
- metal (steel or aluminum).
Plastic is not suitable as a material for making a saw table.
Before final assembly All wooden parts of the table should be protected from moisture and rotting.
To make a saw table with your own hands, we will need the following materials:
- Laminated chipboard or plywood 21 mm thick;
- timber for the table frame (can be used edged board 50 x 150 mm, 3 meters long – 5 pcs.);
- wooden dowels 10 mm – 12 pcs.;
- wood glue;
- metal fastenings for drawers and legs – 4 pcs.;
- metal corners – 10 pcs.;
- self-tapping screws
Tools required for work:
- pencil, marker, tape measure, meter;
- jigsaw;
- manual ;
- Sander;
- medium and fine grit sandpaper;
- plane;
- drill;
- screwdriver
Step 1. First, use a plane to trim all sides of the beam. We assemble the table frame from the timber: in each side of the tabletop we drill two 5 mm holes for dowels for each drawer and one hole for each table leg.
Step 2. You need to make two holes (5 mm) in the drawers, and one hole (5 mm) in the legs.
Step 3. We install the dowels into the tabletop, having previously lubricated them with wood glue. Tsars and legs are installed on top.
If you have clamps with ties, you can secure the table with them. After the glue has completely dried, the drawers are fastened to the legs and to each other with special metal fastenings for tables and fastened with self-tapping screws.
Note: the table will be stronger and more stable if you use metal corners for additional fastening of the tabletop: two on the short side and three on the long side.
Step 4. Now you need to secure the circular saw to inside countertops. There can be two options: fasten the saw platform with M4 bolts or fasten the platform using bars with self-tapping screws. The first option is faster and more reliable. The second option does not require drilling holes in the metal pad for bolts.
Step 5. You can secure the saw with bolts or bars with self-tapping screws. We will fasten with blocks, so we make a cut in small blocks the width of the saw platform. Using blocks with self-tapping screws on both sides, we fasten the circular saw to the table top.
Step 6 When the saw is installed, take another larger block and screw it to the tabletop with self-tapping screws (directly to the previously marked points along which the saw platform was aligned exactly). This block is necessary so that later, when removing the saw from the table, you can quickly return it to its place without resorting to markings.
Step 7 Place the circular saw blade in place and saw through the tabletop to create a longitudinal hole. Turn the tabletop over.
Step 8 We manufacture rip fence. To do this, we saw off two strips of plywood with a length equal to the width of the table and a width of about 8–10 cm. We round the corners using a protractor and a pencil.
Step 9 We sand both strips and fasten them using self-tapping screws at an angle. We screw a metal corner inside.
Step 10 At permanent job with a table for a circular saw and the need to secure the stop on the table top, a guide is fixed perpendicular to the disk. The roller or the second part of the guide is attached to the bottom of the fence so that the fence can move up / away from the circular saw blade.
Workplace safety
In order to avoid injury during work, it is necessary to carefully monitor the position of the saw table, its stability, and strength.
Before each use of the circular saw, check that it is securely in place.
Holding the cut material with your hands is strictly prohibited! This can lead to injury to your fingers or the wood to bounce into your face when hit by knots or uneven surfaces.
Also, to avoid eye injury, be sure to wear safety glasses while working.
Don't neglect these simple rules, take care of your own health.
For more information on how to make a table for a hand-held circular saw with your own hands, see the following video:
The idea of creation unusual table appeared about a year ago, but the time to make it has only now appeared.
Before the “transformation”, for six months the tabletop stood on ordinary round furniture legs. It was a little wobbly, but overall it served the functions of a table.
The tabletop was designed in CorelDRAW with your own hands and ordered from a local furniture glass processing plant.
First of all, all the sketches were redrawn, all dimensions were redrawn and then entered into the sketch.
Two arches acted as the main frame, onto which all the load-bearing components were subsequently attached. The arcs were made from profile square pipe 20x20 mm, on manual homemade three-roll pipe bender(yes, a meat grinder handle :-)).
The process of adjusting pipes after bending.
We try on the arches on the table top.
Welding was carried out using plasma, with precise fitting of the elements at the joints. Additional processing the design did not require seams in places.
We add additional half-arcs, taking them from the rest of the main arcs of the table frame.
The tabletop lifting mechanism was based on actuators adjustments satellite antennas SuperJack HARL-3618+.
According to the stated characteristics, peak lifting loads are up to 400kg. Options were considered self-made linear actuator, using a meter stud as a basis M10-M12, with a nut welded to the pipe-rod, with 12V an engine from a car window lifter or a windshield wiper system, but due to the lack of time for many experiments, I put the idea aside for future projects.
The table frame was mounted on three linear actuators, which is sufficient to stabilize the table.
A bolt is chosen as a hinge for movement in the actuators M8x75, the ring in the actuator is bored to the diameter 14mm, then a rubber tube, pressed with a washer and nut, will be put on the bolt. Something like a silent block.
After painting we put everything together. First attempts to move the structure.
Power wires are connected to the actuators. Engine parameters: 36V, current about 1A. Network copper wire selected 2x0.75 sq. mm.
We attach the tabletop for fitting.
Raising and lowering the tabletop up and down is carried out using an external power supply.
Complete actuator mounts were used to general design beds.
To move the table along the floor, furniture wheels are installed, with free rotation on 360 degrees. Front without stoppers, rear with stoppers.
For rigidity of the frame, parts of the upper tubes of the actuators were connected by an arc-like plate, with additional fastening to the lower arc. Plate 40mm width, 4mm thick, bent into an arc with the same pipe bender, the radius was selected experimentally, periodically trying it on the table. If the plate is bent, it can be easily deformed in the opposite direction, which cannot be done so easily with a profile pipe. To attach to this plate, complete mounting mechanisms for the actuators were used.
Table lift control circuit.
The actuators have an output that “counts” the revolutions with a reed switch sensor. That is, if desired, you can add an intelligent control circuit indicating the angle or height of lift. Having assessed the complexity of the task and the rarity of using such an adjustment, I decided to go the primitive route - a toggle switch for two positions with two switching groups and a closing start button - for each channel of the lifting mechanism.
Transformers used as power supplies 18+18V(connected in series, 36V output variations), power 40W. For these loads, which do not exceed 1-2 minutes in operating time when the tabletop is fully raised and lowered, this power is quite sufficient, even though the transformer is overloaded. After the transformer there is a diode bridge 15A, which gets slightly warm during operation. Two capacitors 4700μFx63V, maybe one. Selected with a small margin to completely remove pulsations.
Indication of power supply to the output for the actuator motor - LED, through a resistor 3kOhm(for blue LED, 3mm).
The design of the remote control is framed in a small plastic case.
General view of the table in almost assembled form.
Checking control electronics and joint mechanics.
We hide the wires and bring everything to a finished form.
To fasten the wires I use reinforced tape, almost the same color as the paint (in the photo the shade is slightly distorted).
The table is finished, in the near future I will design the power supply unit into a normal case, the required size was not available. For now, a plastic candy box was used :) to somehow protect against accidental access to the circuit and to the mains voltage on the transformer.
Video of lifting mechanisms in operation homemade products.
Instead of buying a ready-made table, you can make it yourself and save thousands of rubles. If you need a spacious table of a non-standard design, then you can make it yourself so that it will not differ from those made by professional carpenters. Measure the room, choose appearance table and make a table that will fit into its surroundings. If you have experience working with carpentry tools and have already done something around the house, then this job will not seem difficult to you.
Steps
Adjustable table
- At your discretion, you can cut holes in the tabletop for cables and wires.
-
Sand the countertop. If you didn't buy a sheet already sanded, you'll need to sand it yourself. To save time, you can borrow from someone grinder. After sanding, wipe down the table.
Paint the countertop. If you want, you can paint the table and supports. Can be painted as in the usual way, and by spraying (which will be faster). Please note that only unpainted and unstained wood can be stained.
- The table top and supports can be painted any color, but you should still choose a color that matches the table with its surroundings.
-
Bring the table pieces into the room. Bring the disassembled table into the room in which it will be placed. This will save you the hassle of pushing the table through the doorway. Place the tabletop on supports, which should be approximately 10 centimeters from each edge of the tabletop. You can level the table using a level, but in most situations such precision is unnecessary.
Screw the tabletop to the supports with screws. Using long enough screws, screw the tabletop to the supports, three screws (evenly spaced) per support. If necessary, the table can be strengthened with metal corners.
The finishing touches. Seal the screw heads or cover them with caps. Add details as you wish. Your new table ready!
- Thanks to the adjustable supports, the height of the table can be changed.
Bedside table
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Purchase the necessary materials. You will need: a side table or bedside table the same height as the future table; MDF or plywood, the thickness of which is equal to or several centimeters greater than the thickness of the surface bedside table; legs (2 pieces if it is the same height as the bedside table, or 4 pieces if the table is of a different height). You will also need wood glue, screws and corner brackets.
- The height of the legs and the bedside table should be the same. It is better to buy wooden legs so that if something happens they can be sawed down.
-
Cut out the tabletop to the desired size. Using a jigsaw or circular saw, cut the tabletop to the required size. After that, sand it.
Paint the countertop. Paint the countertop a color you like. The fastest option may be spray painting.
You will need a piece of MDF or plywood measuring 120x50 centimeters, two adjustable wooden supports (easy to find at Ikea and similar stores), screws and paint. If the sheets are not cut to the required dimensions, then you will need a circular saw.
Cut the sheets using a circular saw. Take the necessary measurements and cut wood sheets to the required sizes. Don’t forget the proverb “Measure twice, cut once.”
A table is the second item after a stool that a novice amateur furniture maker should take on. Design simple table no more difficult than a stool; unassuming comfortable table for a summer cottage or for a picnic you can build it in half a day using a hacksaw, hammer and drill. But a table made using the same technology and slightly refined can look great at home, on the left in the figure, instead of an expensive one. However, the table also gives greater freedom of creative expression; it can be a significant and even key element of interior design; it is not for nothing that artisanal furniture makers are called carpenters, and not sofa makers, cabinet makers or nightstand makers. Having become proficient in carpentry, you will eventually be able to take on exclusive tables and other positions. right there.
This article discusses how to make tables from wood. Wood is an environmentally friendly, affordable and easily processed material with remarkable aesthetic advantages. In utilitarian products, it forgives beginners quite serious mistakes, but delicate woodwork requires high skill. Having learned how to make wooden things, it will be much easier to master glass, metal and plastic.
Tool and workshop
To make a table with your own hands, you need something separate from the living rooms. production room: Woodworking is notoriously dusty. In addition, such good means of tinting and protecting wood as stains emit harmful fumes during the staining process; nitro varnishes too, although to a lesser extent. Therefore, home carpentry should be well ventilated, or better yet, with forced ventilation. You can use the garage, but there will be a lot of sawdust, and it will not be good for the car. Better to work in a barn; if it doesn’t exist yet, then you can build it, and it will be useful for a lot of things on the farm.
An ordinary carpenter's tool, on the left in the figure, will be enough for a start. But the work will go much faster, and the result will be better, if you attract help from modern achievements, on the right there:
- Rotary miter box, pos. 1, allows you to make cuts exactly to size and angle in 2 planes. It is advisable to take it with the complete bow saw, so everything together will be cheaper, and the work will be more accurate. A miter box is a universal device, it will always come in handy and it is better to buy it.
- Also universal is a manual jigsaw with a tilting shoe, pos. 2, which allows you to cut at an angle to the vertical plane.
- Disc grinder, pos. 3 and 4, gives a beginner the opportunity in 5-15 minutes to obtain the surface of a wooden surface, which would take an experienced carpenter with sandpaper in hand at least an hour to achieve, and a tape one, pos. 5, also process ends quickly and efficiently; is there some more belt sanders for grooves and recesses with a protruding working element. These are already specialized tools, unsuitable for other work, and quite expensive, so it’s better to rent them first. True, craftsmen still successfully brush with grinders, i.e. They artificially age the wood, but this is delicate work.
- It is also preferable at first to rent a manual wood router, pos. 6, with a set of cutters. They process shaped edges and select holes and grooves.
In general, a universal household woodworking machine (UBDS) of various modifications is very useful on the farm. It is compact, fits on the table, power supply – 220 V 50/60 Hz 380-500 W. UBDS combines a circular saw, a jointer, a wood lathe and a set of cutters. True, you can’t just turn the table legs on it; the reach of the tailstock caliper is too small. But the caliper itself is just a steel round pipe; it’s not difficult to lengthen it. The cutter stop remains standard, it is movable, the leg and the long support are sharpened in one setting.
How to choose a tree?
A wooden table can be made from any wood of average resistance to decay, except for the softest species: poplar, aspen, alder, willow, ailanthus. Domestic ones include:
The breeds are listed in order of availability. E.g. timber harvesting horse chestnut, plane tree and juniper are not cultivated at all: the former are too valuable for landscaping in the southern regions, and juniper is endangered and protected. Industrial harvests of elm are almost entirely used for shoe lasts, weaving shuttles, etc., and rowan berries are used for weapon stocks; full-fledged plastic replacement they don't have one yet. Stone birch grows very slowly, in limited places, and does not renew itself well, so its harvesting is strictly regulated, and its wood is expensive.
Note: Walnut is especially valuable for furniture - its wood combines high hardness with excellent toughness, the most openwork carving It doesn't hurt the nut. And walnut wood from burls - large growths on the trunk - is not inferior in texture to Karelian birch.
At the beginning of a carpentry career, it is better to limit yourself to pine, birch, oak, acacia and boxwood. The countertop will be pine or oak; birch - on the legs of a pine table; in the countertop it warps a lot from spills. Acacia and boxwood make excellent dowels, see below.
For a pine tabletop made from boards, you can and even should use low-grade cheap boards - knotty, twisted ones. But, of course, without falling knots, cracks, wormholes and traces of rot in the form of spots of unnatural color: black, gray, blue, green, in general, not similar to this tree. For example, traces of rot on black (ebony) wood may be whitish or yellowish.
Why is there substandard quality on the countertop? Perhaps also unedged, which needs to be finished using a circular saw and jointer? And after skillful processing, the resulting layers are of remarkable beauty, on the left in Fig. Manufacturers do not like this kind of wood: the production cycle is delayed and waste increases. But for yourself, doing it yourself is not so scary compared to the result.
Wooden crock
Commercial pine has a clearly defined wood zonation in the form of annual growth rings; other conifers and many deciduous species also have it. On the cut of the board, the rings form the so-called. hump in the form of thin concentric arcs. If the top of the tree is directed across the face of the board, as in Fig. in the center, then when joining the shield for the tabletop (see below), the boards are oriented with their humps alternately up and down, from below in Fig. If the humps are directed towards the end of the board (on the right in the figure), then the boards are placed in the shield with their humps in one direction. These subtleties are necessary so that during operation the tabletop does not crack or warp.
Varnishes, paints, impregnation, glue
A free way to protect wood from rotting is used motor oil, but for what you eat, this is not the best option. Impregnation with water-polymer emulsion (WPE) twice, with a break of 3-5 days, would be optimal; it will provide protection to the table for the entire duration of its life. Even birch plywood impregnated with EPE is suitable for front panels furniture: coated with varnish on top, it does not delaminate.
Old furniture nitrocellulose varnishes NTs-218 and NTs-2144 with solvent No. 647 are gradually going out of use: they are superior in all respects to water-based acrylic varnishes; In addition, they are safe to use. Also, glues, bone carpentry and BF-2 with alcohol are inferior to PVA; True, to obtain a high-quality seam, the latter requires applying glue to both surfaces, keeping them until they are tacky before joining and keeping them under pressure for 1-3 days, but in home production This is acceptable for yourself.
Wood for furniture can be tinted in advance and protected with stain, which allows you to make beautiful typesetting parts; an example will be given below. To tint the assembled units, you can use paints based on the same varnish and artistic (not painting!) dyes: oil in tubes for NC varnishes and acrylic water-based for the same varnish.
First, prepare the “painting”: take 30-50 ml of varnish and squeeze 1-1.5 cm of paint into it while continuously stirring thoroughly with a painting brush. The paint is stored in a tightly closed bottle and added to the varnish to the desired tone; A test for it is made on a piece of wood, the tone is determined by the complete drying of the varnish. Colored varnishes based on NC and oil paints can be mixed according to the rules for mixing oil paints for painting; acrylic - no restrictions.
First steps
The country table is the first of the homemade ones. If there are 1-2 brick pallets left from the construction site, then a table made from pallets will be the first of the first. Not only because it is extremely simple, but also because it is very useful on the farm.
From one pallet, sanded, impregnated and varnished, it turns out garden table like a magazine one, on the left in the figure. If you have a pair in stock, you can make a wall-mounted work desk-rack out of them in literally half an hour, in the center and on the right. You can also weave chains for it yourself from soft wire, covered with a PVC tube or, better, heat-shrinkable. To fully raise the tabletop, small tools are placed on the shelf of a wall pallet.
With a little more work, a prefabricated cutting table for the dacha is made from one pallet, allowing you to move the summer-autumn harvesting campaign outside without littering with husks and without trampling on stalks. For the winter, this table is assembled into a compact package. The design is clear from Fig; Place a bucket under the hatch in the countertop.
The next in order of complexity is the well-known country trestle table, in common parlance a goat. Its structure of 40 mm boards is shown on the left in the figure, and in addition to it is a bench of the same device. And on the right is a country folding table based on the same principle. It has articulated joints (M8-M12 bolts, washers and nuts with locknuts); in the place marked in green, a stop boss is placed on nails between the crossbars of the table top. When folded, this table fits in the trunk of a car, so it’s also suitable for going on a picnic. If this is not expected, or the trunk is larger, the tabletop can be made longer.
Finally, a gazebo table also does not require any special tools or skills, see fig. below. The material is the same magpie board and some inexpensive fasteners.
One step closer to art...
To advance in table building, you now need to learn some of the basics of carpentry. A table, in general, consists of a table top, its supporting frame, possibly with niches and/or mechanisms, or simply a plate - a base - legs, and the nodes that hold everything together. Let's go through them starting with the connections along with the legs, because... their fastening is the most weakness table.
Connections and legs
At first, we need to master the connection on dowels - round wooden bosses, see fig. Dowel joints are assembled using quick-drying glue that does not require curing: wood glue, BF-2, acrylic. Sometimes, to connect thin boards, instead of dowels, nails with bitten off heads are used, pos. 4, but this is bad: the wood dries out, but the metal does not, and over time the connection becomes loose.
For dowels, use thin-layered wood that is stronger than both parts being connected, i.e. the hardest rocks. A pine table on birch legs can be connected with oak or beech dowels. There are ready-made round sticks for cutting dowels on sale; Before use, the edges of the dowels are chamfered. Plastic dowels are also sold, but they are intended exclusively for detachable connections, e.g. inserts in sliding tables.
Legs for tables industrial production fastened with detachable drawers, see fig. on right. The item marked in yellow is the simplest, cheapest and worst. Buyers of Shiroptrebov Soviet furniture are well aware of its shortcomings and complete lack of advantages, let it remain there. Reliable, holds well, except for the legs, and the boards of the underframe, drawers with mortise jibs, “green” pos. They also require the least cost, but are quite labor-intensive, so they are rarely used in industry, but just right for an amateur. The drawbar with a shaped steel jib, at the top right in the figure, is even stronger; In this way, you can attach round-headed legs or any legs in general, but you will need purchased shaped parts made of high-quality steel.
Note: The legs are attached to the round table as shown below in Fig.
Detachable legs are needed not only for ease of storage and transportation. IN small apartment With narrow corridor a table with legs is often simply impossible to fit into the living room, no matter how you turn it. Modern apartments more spacious, and in 1-story private houses the table can be brought in/out through the window, so in such cases the strength and durability of a table with tightly fixed legs comes to the fore.
For tables on a rectangular base, the heads of the legs for blind fastening must also be rectangular, pos. 1 in Fig. By the way, the drawers can also be one-piece: then the legs have dowels that pass through a mortise wooden jib. From the inside, the dowels are cut flush and wedged with dogwood or boxwood wedges inserted across the grain of the jib wood. Assembled with glue, such a connection is so strong and durable that you can fight with these 200-year-old tables by grabbing the legs.
Sufficiently high-quality tables with turned legs are simply assembled on dowels, pos. 2. For simpler tables, the legs are made of timber and fastened with self-tapping screws after attaching the tabletop to the tabletop, pos. 3. Even simpler and lighter are the legs from a pair of boards each, pos. 4 and 5. To prevent them from clinging to the floor, you need to put thrust bearings on them below or put the table on wheels.
Tabletop
The easiest, but not the cheapest, option is to order a laminated countertop. particle board(chipboard, laminate). Laminated chipboard for countertops is available in the form of so-called. postforming - 3.6x1.2 m slabs 20-60 mm thick with a decorative coating. The upper edge of the postforming plate is rounded, the lower edge has a drip tray, see fig. Modern furniture laminate is completely environmentally friendly, no matter what those who don’t want to forget the furniture, which stank of phenol for months, gossip about.
Postforming is well purchased by small furniture enterprises. They always have his waste; of them you are willing and for completely affordable price They will cut the tabletop to size if the company has a jig cutting machine. Perhaps such an order will be accepted by a single individual entrepreneur if he is sitting idle. The finished slab will be edged, i.e. cover the end of the PVC with edging (edge). If you do the edging yourself (sometimes they ask for an absurd extra payment for edging), then keep in mind:
- The upper and lower flanges of the edging have different profile, see on the left in Fig. Mix it up and there will always be a dirt edging on the table.
- The edging must be taken exactly according to the thickness of the slab. You can put a 24 mm edging on a 25 mm slab, but it will soon slide off.
- The groove for the edging ridge must be selected using a manual disk cutter; No one seems to have done it properly with a saw yet.
- Before installing the edging, a thin layer is applied to the surface of the end silicone sealant and the “sausage” is squeezed into the groove; V in this case silicone will also act as a lubricant, without which the ridge ridge may simply become wrinkled.
- The comb is inserted into the groove with light blows of the mallet, gradually moving along the contour. The tabletop should lie face up on the support; squeezed out excess silicone is immediately wiped off with a clean rag lightly moistened with table vinegar.
Plank tabletops are held together in plank frames with wedges and spacers - wedges. It’s quite possible to make the vamps yourself; You need 3-4 per tabletop. The boards (cheeks) of the weim are wrapped in polyethylene so that the shield does not stick to them. In Fig. for example, the process of making a round tabletop; the rectangular one is put together in the same way, only cutting it to size is easier. The shield is attached to the tabletop using glue and dowels (see below); if the boards are tongue-and-groove, dowels are not needed. When rallying on PVA, the next plot is kept until the applied glue comes off before installing it in the clamp.
Countertops are often assembled without wires on the plaza - flat surface, covered plastic film. Collect a good one on the plaza board shield It won’t work: either it will come out cracked, or the boards will stand on end when assembling. But in the right hands, stacked tabletops made from fragments are simply wonderful. For example, at pos. 1-3 fig. – tabletop made from sawing waste, tinted with stain. And at pos. 4-5 The base of the tabletop was the platform itself, made of thick plywood. The tile and its break are glued tile adhesive, then the depressions are filled with grout, the surface is varnished and the outline is outlined with a wooden strip edge.
Note: These examples do not illustrate all the possibilities of making inlaid artistic tabletops with your own hands.
Underframe
Table base with fixed legs - simple wooden frame, left in Fig. Niches and parts of mechanisms are not involved in the power circuit. If the table is longer than 1.2 m, or the tabletop is removable/extendable, or large operating loads are expected (for example, a work table), the underframe is reinforced with stiffening ribs in the center. If the legs are attached with drawers, then the underframe is made integral with the tabletop to create a single power circuit, on the right in Fig.
Without frame
Tables without an underframe are also known, in which the tabletop and legs work in a single supporting system. Very durable, e.g. plywood table on the left in the figure; its connections are dowel. Unfortunately, this is not an economical design for an amateur: the sidewalls cannot be assembled from pieces, they must be solid. In mass production, the waste is not very large, but a sheet of plywood with a thickness of 24 mm or more will be used in one piece for large sidewalls, and another 1 piece for smaller ones. The table on the right is quite possible to make with your own hands: load-bearing frame made; connections - in a tenon with a tightening bolt and half a tree. However, the tabletop in this case should be round or square, with rounded or right corners.
... and we find ourselves in the kitchen
Exactly. The kitchen table is the next in order of complexity after the simplest country tables. It should already meet the requirements of apartment ergonomics, dimensions - 75 cm in height for people of average size; the width of the place for 1 eater/rider is 60-80 cm, depending on its corpulence, the width of the tabletop is at least 70 cm. The aesthetic appearance is very desirable, but is not decisive: suddenly you messed up with the decoration, that’s why the tablecloth. The countertop should be easy to clean, durable, and resistant to spilled heat from hot dishes.
All these requirements will be satisfied by a table made of laminated chipboard on metal legs; They are also sold separately in sets of 4 pieces, with fasteners, on the left in Fig. Factory-made table legs are usually equipped with height-adjustable heels. A table, the manufacture of which will be reduced to screwing the leg sockets with confirmatory screws, will cost 30-50% less than a completely purchased one, and in appearance it will not be inferior to it, on the right in Fig.
If you are not too lazy to put your hands to it, you can make steel legs with your own hands. It is not only cheaper, but also more durable option: the sockets of the branded legs are cast from rather fragile silumin; the fastenings weaken over time and need to be tightened. You can cut out the nests yourself from good steel, and weld the very legs into them.
In a larger kitchen, there may be room for a larger table. In such a case, follow up. rice. Rustic style kitchen table plans. This table is “rustic” not only in appearance: it does not have a single nail or metal fasteners at all. Just wood and glue. A connoisseur, seeing this, nods his head in understanding and approval, and the design is simple and accessible to a beginner. True, in addition to the tabletop, you will also have to assemble the panels for the sidewalls, but in this case the extra work is worth it.
Kruglyashi
Table with round table top appropriate in any room if it fits there. But a table top made of boards in this case is not the best option: due to the presence of sharp corners, without a frame, which is very complex and labor-intensive, it is susceptible to splitting. Composite countertops made from small fragments, like the one described above from waste, are free from this drawback; Unlike laminate roundels, they are decorative, stylish, unique and practically free.
There are even more sharp corners in a finely-set countertop, but here the “broom law” comes into play. Not the American Senator Venik, who loves democracy in Russia to the point of complete oblivion about it at home, but that broom that is used to sweep away trash. As you know, it is impossible to break it (the broom, not the senator) tied up, but even a child will break twig after twig. So here, thanks to the ease of distributing loads between small fragments, a table top assembled from them works like a solid slab, and after assembly you can cut it even “Zu”.
Note: The idea of the senator-broom, sorry, Broom, was brought to mind by the statement of his compatriot Samuel Clemens, world famous as Mark Twain: “I assert, and I undertake to prove it, that Mr. Cooper has no more imagination than a bull. But not the bull that moos in the pasture, but the one that supports the bridge.”
How to make a semi-folding one round table, shown in Fig; On the right there are the tabletop dimensions and assembly order. And in Fig. Above on the right is a small round table for the hallway, according to the old classification - a business table. Its feature is the minimum number of connections; assembly with glue. Any round piece will fit on the tabletop, from a cut stump to a cardboard one, made using the method of making cardboard shelves, but the underframe must be durable, made of wood (200-piece board) or laminated chipboard.
Let's go further: to the living room
Table in main room at home should suit the whole house. At the same time, with the modern desire for laconic design (which also saves costs on living space), the table should, for the time being, not be conspicuous and occupy smaller place. Therefore, one of the most popular pieces of furniture these days has become a transforming table.
The simplest transformable table, which, despite all its transformations, remains a table and does not turn into a closet or bed - a table-bedside table; It is quite possible to make it yourself “from scratch”. There are 2 options that are most common here. On the left in Fig. – the table is unfoldable, it has a record ratio of occupied space in expanded and collapsed form. These are most often placed in studio apartments perpendicular to the wall on the border of the kitchen and living areas. With the tabletop wings lowered, it will serve as a bar. By raising the wings one at a time, you can get a kitchen or everyday dinner table, and fully deployed (in the center), it will provide space for a fairly crowded banquet.
For a bachelor living in a small apartment, a folding table-bedside table, on the right in Fig. It's basically 2 small round ones. folding tables, described above, connected by a rectangular insert. You can have lunch with one folded one, because, unlike the previous option, there is somewhere to put your legs. And having unfolded, hold romantic evening with a beautiful stranger or soulful gatherings with friends.
All the above qualities are combined in transforming coffee and dining tables with a mechanism. The variety of transformation mechanisms is great, but for tables, which are always tables, they mainly come down to 2 types: elevator (pantograph) and book. How they both work, see the video:
Theoretically, a book is more stable than an elevator, although much depends on the quality of execution. Book lovers are more popular because a book-like mechanism can still be made independently, but an elevator outside production conditions is unlikely.
How the book-table unfolds is shown step by step in Fig. on right. To make it yourself you need to know that key node– damping-balancing elastic link. Quite expensive branded designs use very softly operating gas dampers (gas lifts), but for an amateur it is better to opt for a spring damper, and not because gas lift is much more expensive.
The fact is that the gas lift must be coordinated within fairly narrow limits with the kinematics of the lever system, the weight of the tabletop, underframe and the dead weight of the levers. If the balance of the entire system does not fit into its characteristics, the mechanism simply will not work. And the spring can always be tightened/loosened; as a last resort, replace it. In general, an unsuccessful homemade transforming table with gas lifts can rarely be brought to fruition, but a spring table can almost always be brought to fruition. If you still decide to suffer with a homemade acrobat table, in Fig. – drawings of the spring transformation mechanism.
Without the availability of drilling, turning and metal milling machines or access to them, most parts of the transformation mechanism will have to be ordered. Then its production will cost a little about $40, and you can buy a good ready-made one for $50-$60. Factory transformable coffee table Rarely does it cost less than $200, so even in this situation the savings are significant.
The transforming table is made to fit the mechanism. One of the most popular are Mazetti transformation mechanisms, thanks to good quality at a moderate price for this class of products. In addition, Mazetti mechanisms are produced in a supporting frame (inset in the center in the figure), which greatly simplifies installation. Other pos. in Fig. show the structure and dimensions of the table for this mechanism.
For a strong feast
Whatever you say, a normal family with children, friends and relatives cannot do without crowded gatherings at the table, and here a transforming table will not always help out. However, we will leave more or less full banquet tables for the living room, as they say, for later: these are products of a higher order of complexity; primarily due to the sliding mechanism.
By the way, the good old “sliders” with wooden guides and wooden sliders of the tabletop halves (item 1 in the figure) are quite convenient and reliable when properly executed; in addition, you can make them yourself, but such a process requires a special detailed description. Modern sliding mechanisms with telescopic guides for full extension, pos. 2, allow you to use not 1, but up to 3-5 inserts, which increases the table capacity by 6-10 people, respectively, but they are quite expensive, and their installation requires a description no less voluminous.
There are banquet tables with folding inserts, pos. 3. In elite models, when moving the tabletop halves apart, the inserts lift, unfold and put in place or put back into the underframe, a very complex mechanism, but it manual options available for making at home.
As for banquet tables with retractable individual tables, arranged like a keyboard stand in computer desk, then they cannot be called popular: by leaning forward (and how can this be avoided if the house has no servants?), we will get the board back into the table, and our portion of the treat will be used for festive clothes.
But let's not talk about sad things. Let us remember that the table is not always moved apart, and you can use an extension, but a solid table is in any case more reliable. Therefore, in the series of pictures below there is a way to make a very durable and inexpensive dining table, and see how it looks “alive” on the left in the picture. at first.
In addition
You often want to paint a table, or any furniture, in more than just stripes or paint it artistically. To protect the design from external influences and to ensure the possibility of refinishing the varnish if necessary, the paint should not be applied, but rubbed into the wood before varnishing. The technique of painting by rubbing paint in layers is called glazing. So in conclusion, we offer a master class on glazing wood.
Video: master class on wood glazing
A lift table with scissor legs is a treasure that many will find useful both at home and in the workplace. It has many uses (such as lifting or lowering workpieces), has adjustable height and can be compact for convenient storage. The thing is, it can be quite expensive when purchased in stores. 
The budget-oriented master, however, will prefer homemade. This video shows how practical it is to build such a table using durable but less expensive materials.
Find wood pieces that fit the table. Then prepare fasteners, nuts and bearings. These will be used to secure the wood pieces together later.
Now we are ready to start cutting the wood into smaller pieces. We need wooden parts for the scissors (shoulders), parts for the top and bottom frames. The next step is to assemble the wood pieces and secure them in place using wood glue and pieces of hardware that have been cut and shaped. A wooden lift table that is versatile, adjustable and easy to use. Thank you very much creator of the video "Marius Hornberger".
