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How to make a suspended ceiling correctly. How to make a suspended ceiling with your own hands? Glass ceiling prices

Modern suspended ceilings They delight with the splendor of shapes and shades, making the house more spacious and brighter. Unusual design arouses great interest and makes a pleasant impression on visitors. New construction technologies help to effectively use ceiling space. As a result, each room turns out to be interesting and unique in its own way.

Today the market offers an abundance available materials for finishing the ceiling. By experimenting with shape and color, you will be able to implement the most unusual design ideas. This article will help you with this. She will talk about the technology of installing a plasterboard suspended ceiling and teach you to understand the intricacies of the work.

Preparing for installation of a suspended ceiling

Installing a suspended ceiling is a technically painstaking job that requires preparation. Purchase Construction Materials, collect necessary tools. Everything must be prepared so that the work process is not interrupted.

Required tools and materials

• drill with a set of drills;
• building level;
• hydraulic level;
• screwdriver;
• pliers;
• square;
• hacksaw;
• hammer;
• roulette;
• marker;
• knife

Materials:

• plasterboard sheets;
• guide profiles;
• metal profiles;
• profile hangers;
• metal screws;
• concrete anchors;
• brackets;
• dowels

Installation of a suspended ceiling

Hanging structures consist of metal or wooden frame, onto which sheets of drywall are attached. Thanks to mounted technologies, the ceiling can be easily given any shape. Overlappings can be single-level or multi-level.

The first option is the simplest and most quickly erected, it the main task hide the unevenness of the old ceiling. The second option is more complex and time-consuming; its purpose is not only to mask defects, but also to perform decorative function. The installation of any suspended structure follows the same pattern and is divided into several important stages.

Ceiling markings

At the first stage, it is necessary to make markings on the surface of the old floor. Mark the height of the future ceiling, as well as the location of the frame.

1. Determine the lowest corner of the room. Measurements are taken using a tape measure, applied to the corners of the room. When the minimum level is found, make a mark on the wall, 5 cm away from the ceiling. If you plan to install lighting in the form of built-in lighting, step back 10 cm.
2. Transfer the mark you made to all other sides. Use a hydraulic level; it can be made from a thin hose. This is a handy tool, but you will need an assistant to use it.
3. Now connect the marks on the wall. Use a dyeing cord, but if you don’t have such a tool, take a long and even strip. Draw horizontal lines along it along the entire perimeter.
4. Attach the guides to the wall and make marks using a drill. The profile has ready-made holes for fastening. Drill a hole through them for the dowels.
5. Glue to the back of the guides sealing tape. It is needed to dampen vibrations, this will help prevent cracks from appearing. Then use dowel nails to attach the profile to the wall.
6. Make parallel lines on the ceiling for the longitudinal support strips. The width of standard drywall is 120 cm, so the distance between the profiles should be 60 cm. This will allow the sheet to be securely fastened to the planks.
7. Draw marks for the hangers. Mark points in 50 cm increments on the lines of the ceiling profile. They are installed so that the structure of the profiles in the middle part of the ceiling does not sag.

Frame installation

At this stage it is established metal carcass. The ceiling profile and hangers are attached according to the marks made. The work is carried out carefully so that the base is level.

1. Insert the longitudinal strips into the groove of the guides. The distance between them should be 60 cm. The profile is three meters long; if the length is not enough, attach another plank to it and join them with a special bracket. The total length of the longitudinal profile should be one centimeter less than the length of the room.
2. Attach the suspensions to the ceiling along the profile in increments of 50 cm. Fixation is done anchor bolts, which, unlike dowels, hold well and do not fall out of the holes.
3. Start aligning the ceiling slats; it is convenient to use a cord for this. Stretch it, tying it to the outermost profiles. Using this cord you will make a single, even plane.
4. Fix the profiles on the hangers with metal screws. Bend the excess pieces outward until they stop.
5. Attach the transverse pieces of the profile to the longitudinal strips in increments of 60 cm. For screeding, use “crab” brackets, which are installed in the marked places. Secure the cross profile with the tongues protruding from the crab.
6. Bend the bracket flags towards the planks and screw small self-tapping screws into them. At this stage, the installation of the profile is completed. Now the frame is ready and you can start laying the electrical wires.

Wiring installation

Having completed the installation of the hanging frame, begin electrical cables. It is recommended to make an external gasket. To prevent accidental fire in the ceiling, all wiring must be protected by a metal box or corrugation.

1. Mark the future cable route. It should run along the wall from the switch with an outlet to the ceiling for connection to the lamps.
2. Install the boxes according to the markings. If you lay wires in corrugated wires, use clips as fasteners.
3. Lay the wire in a box or tighten it into a corrugation, and then secure it with clips. Each line must have a separate box or corrugation.
4. When connecting the cable to the locations of the lamps, leave a reserve of wire 15 cm long for each.

Drywall installation

After finishing the wiring, install the drywall. Installation of the first sheet begins from the corner. It is necessary to leave a gap of 2–3 mm between the wall and the drywall. The next sheet is installed with an offset - in a checkerboard pattern. The drywall is fixed with metal screws in increments of 15–20 cm. The depth of the cap should not exceed one millimeter.

1. Mark the sheets of drywall. Draw lines on its surface that repeat the location of the profile. These marks are convenient for tightening screws. It is also necessary to make a drawing of the location of the lamps.
2. Bevel the edges of the sheet - they should be beveled. This is done so that the plaster penetrates well into the gap at the joint of drywall.
3. Screw the sheets to the profile. For convenience, you can use homemade T-shaped spacers that will hold the drywall. Use self-tapping screws to scroll through all the profile cells.

Creating holes for lamps

Having sheathed the hanging profile with sheets, check the accuracy of the location of the intended holes. There may be deviations in the drawing, correct them. If everything is according to the design plan, start creating the holes.

1. Choose the right one hole saw for drill. The diameter of the nozzle must be equal to the diameter of the holes.
2. Wear glasses to prevent plaster dust from getting into your eyes.
3. Make holes in the drywall, being careful not to damage the sheet.

There are many nuances in the matter of puttying the ceiling; to take them into account at this stage it is necessary to follow the technology. Cover the joints with special putty. These are especially durable compounds made for plasterboard sheets. Prepare the solution in small portions in order to have time to putty before setting.

1. After diluting the solution, begin to cover the seams. Do this with a small amount of putty, otherwise the joint will be noticeable and uneven.
2. After grouting, take KURT paper tape and apply it to the seam. Press it down with a spatula so that the tape does not protrude above the surface of the drywall.
3. When rubbing large joints, try to make a wide layer. The excess can always be removed. The wider you apply the putty, the smoother the surface will be.
4. After applying the first layer to the entire joint, let the putty dry. This takes 10–12 hours.
5. After drying, use a sanding float to sand all the areas where the putty was applied. After sanding, a lot of dust will remain on the ceiling surface. To remove it, use a vacuum cleaner or a wide brush.
6. Prime the entire ceiling. This is done because the base has become heterogeneous after sealing the seams. Drywall and putty absorb moisture differently. Therefore, it is necessary to equalize the absorbency. A primer is used for this.

Ceiling putty

The ceiling is the most critical place during repairs. It is always visible and must be perfect, without cracks or irregularities. At the ceiling with high-quality surface When illuminated from the side, irregularities are not visible.

To achieve the ideal, apply the first layer of putty one millimeter. This will help remove any unevenness in the ceiling. Apply a second layer of fine putty to vinyl based. It penetrates well into micropores and makes the surface smooth.

Installing the backlight

After finishing the plastering, all that remains is to install Spotlights. To do this, remove the wires from the drilled holes, grind the ends and put on the terminals. Then they connect it to the lamp and insert it into place. It is securely fixed thanks to spacer plates.

When creating a suspended ceiling from plasterboard, each stage is important. This article describes in detail how to create a single-level floor. By following the basic rules and technologies, you will be able to make a wonderful and durable ceiling yourself.

Video: installation of a two-level suspended ceiling made of plasterboard

A suspended ceiling is perfect solution for repairs, especially in the case of curves, uneven surfaces. How to make a suspended ceiling with your own hands? This question interests many people. Everyone is wondering how realistically this can be accomplished without a team of professionals. You can still cope if you follow the instructions compiled by specialists. Before starting work, you must plan everything correctly so that it doesn’t turn out that something is missing, or something needs to be done differently.

Tools and materials:

1. Dowels.
2. Ceiling profile.
3. The hangers are straight.
4. Guide profile.
5. Galvanized self-tapping screws.
6. Cross-shaped brackets.
7. Panels.
8. Hammer, screwdriver, screwdrivers.
9. Tape measure, plumb line, level, pencil, square.
10. Saw, pliers, knife.
11. Additional tools that may be needed along the way. For example, a stepladder.

Fasteners are chosen according to your taste and discretion. In this case, they must be stainless.

Preparation

Most First stage in all endeavors it is preparation. You should always do everything conscientiously, so that there are no misunderstandings later. The thing is that previous whitewashing or painting may contain pathogens and fungus. What does the preparation include? This is the removal of all previous layers on the ceiling. If the ceiling is concrete or brick, it is advisable to get to it. To prevent microorganisms and fungus from appearing, antiseptic is applied to the cleaned surface. Before you start installing a suspended ceiling, you need to think about how future electrical wiring and other communications will be routed. If you forget about this, you will still have to remove everything and redo it again.

Marking

Next, after preparation comes marking. It is advisable to draw a drawing in advance where there will be a separate place for communications and outline rough plan future ceiling. It is necessary to determine the distance from the floor to the future ceiling. Places for lamps must also be determined. In this case, you will need a level so that the ceiling is not crooked. It is advisable to take a water level. Using a level, mark the corners of the ceiling.

When the corners are marked according to the level, you can then use painter's thread to outline the entire room around the perimeter. The ceiling profile is placed along the outlined lines. It must be installed with the bottom along the drawn line. Holes for dowels are drilled along the drawn line. In this case, you should walk about half a meter. Dowels are used for concrete or brick walls, if this soft materials, such as drywall, then self-tapping screws of the required length will do. The final holes are made 10-15 cm from the edges to make it more reliable.

Metal scissors will be needed to cut profiles according to required size. The bars and profiles are attached using a screwdriver. If the walls are uneven, horizontal bending of the horizontal profiles is allowed. Everything along the bottom of the profiles should be level.

Fixing hangers

Now it's a matter of fixing the suspensions. Suspensions are required to ensure the central part of the ceiling is even. If they are not installed, the center will sag and become uneven. The suspensions are distributed 40 cm from each other. To fix the hangers, you need to make the correct markings using a tape measure or a construction ruler. The marking is done along the future guides, which will be perpendicular.

Installation and installation of rack profiles

When the guides are mounted, rack profiles are installed. Walk strictly at 60 cm. To ensure the appropriate size, the profiles are cut with metal scissors. The size should correspond to the width of the room and remove 1 cm to ensure that no bending occurs. Rack profiles mounted with metal screws. Decide for yourself whether to do it with a screwdriver or a screwdriver.

The resulting structure must be secured with cross-shaped joints and hangers. To ensure that the hangers are installed securely, the antennae are bent. After this, the profile is inserted and secured with metal screws. To prevent the profile from bending, it is necessary to stretch the cord and only after that the frame of the building is finally tightened. After the final installation of the frame, electricity and other necessary cords are installed.

If the material is for, then the sheets are attached to metal screws in a staggered manner. It is definitely recommended to make gaps between the sheets and near the walls. For gaps 2 or 3 mm is enough. This is done primarily so that the ceiling can breathe. Before you start decorating the ceiling, it is treated with putty. First, the putty is applied to the seams and screw heads, and then to the entire ceiling.

Good strength can be given to the ceiling using reinforced mesh. It can also be gypsum or any other mixture. Sometimes it is necessary to shape the drywall. Of course, dry drywall is more difficult to adapt to this, so you can use a wet sponge and a needle roller.

Drywall: pros and cons

pros:

• Environmentally friendly.
• Soundproofing.
• Fire resistance.
• Practicality of the material.
• Variety of design ideas.
• Easy to install.

Minuses:

• Poor moisture resistance.

In this case, everything also begins with theoretical thinking through the design to little things, then marking and only then the sheathing begins. For the lathing you will need bars measuring 20 by 40 mm. The bars must be fastened to self-tapping screws using a screwdriver or screwdriver. Who has what? There is a main caveat - sensitivity to moisture. If this is a room with high humidity, then wooden bars can be replaced with metal ones.

The slats of the future frame must be installed perpendicularly to make it easier to insert PVC panels. Make the distance between the bars about 40 cm. A fastening strip is fixed around the perimeter of the room. The mounting strip is a 90 degree angle made of plastic. In such a mounting strip It will be very easy to insert the ceiling plinth.

When the plank and baseboard are installed, a special recess appears for the panel. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the middle of the plank in increments of 25 cm. The first PVC panels are inserted into the resulting recess. They are also attached with self-tapping screws. When the very first panel is inserted, it will not be difficult to insert the rest. All subsequent panels are attached in the same way with self-tapping screws to a wooden block. In the case of panels, there should be no gaps.

In places intended for conducting electricity, the frame is strengthened. To do this, you just need to add one additional block. IN in the right place a hole is drilled for the wire. Once the hole is drilled, the panel must be removed, wired through, and put back in.

When the time comes to install the last panel, sometimes there are some difficulties. This is primarily due to the fact that the size between the penultimate panel and ceiling plinth does not match standard sizes panels. It's not as scary as it might seem. To do this, it is enough to first cut off the required piece from the panel so that the size matches and it fits in easily.

PVC panels advantages:

• Good resistance to humidity.
• It is not exposed to fungal and other unnecessary formations.
• Durability.
• Easy to install.
• Environmentally friendly.
• Cheapness.

Minuses:

• Flammable When burned, it releases toxic gases.
• There is a possibility of breakdown.
• The panels are often used in non-residential premises, which causes discomfort for some.

Conclusion

Suspended ceiling - this may sound much scarier than it actually is. Decide for yourself what suits you best. Deciding what material you will work with is also up to you. These will be metal profiles or wooden blocks. The suspended ceiling can be made of plasterboard or PVC panels. Besides this a good option give the apartment a nice fresh look.

One main disadvantage is financial opportunity and time. If you have enough of both, then any dreams will come true.

Advice! If you decide not to use the services of specialized workers, there may be someone you can invite to help. All because it can be very difficult to cope with the task alone. Someone must hand the same panels or drywall to the person at the top and hold it while fastening takes place.

Photos of suspended ceilings

The rapidly growing popularity of suspended ceilings is entirely due to its universal properties. Its assembly is not difficult, and the physical and aesthetic properties of the structure cannot be overestimated. Absolutely Smooth surface, high heat and sound insulation, reduction of the heated volume of the room, the possibility decorative design– all these qualities make this model interesting and attractive, deserving the close attention of consumers.

In terms of artistic decoration of premises, suspended structures have no equal. Too high ceilings (4-5 m) can be lowered, giving the room a proportional appearance; huge gloomy rooms can be decorated figured ceiling at different levels, creating several zones in the room that are independent from each other; all over ceiling structure You can install lamps, giving the room a completely new and unique look.

This structure consists of a stainless metal or wooden frame, attached to the ceiling with suspended elements, and sheathed on the front side finishing material. As a rule, plasterboard sheets are used as finishing material. The weight of such a structure varies from 12 to 14 kg/m².

True, drywall also has some minor disadvantages. It is not resistant to water, can swell and tear off, and remains deformed after drying. It cannot be dismantled because it breaks easily. But all these troubles can be avoided if for plating suspended ceiling use specially impregnated waterproof material.

Preparatory work

Between the floor slabs and the outside of the suspended ceiling, everything is placed necessary communications: electrical wiring cable, ventilation, soundproofing material.

If you plan to install halogen lamps, then additional hanging elements are not needed. Reinforcement of holes in drywall cut for lamps is also not required.

Massive chandeliers large sizes, weighing about 3 kg, and air conditioners must be attached to separate supporting suspended structures. Along the perimeter of the holes for various gratings and hatches, additional frame elements need to be attached.

How to make a suspended ceiling?

The suspended ceiling frame is attached in two ways:

1. to the walls;
2. to floor slabs and walls.

First method of fastening

Applicable in small rooms, with a ceiling width of no more than 2.5 m.

• Having measured the height of the room in all four corners, from the top point of the lowest corner measure the distance to which it will fall suspended structure. Starting from this point, a line is drawn along all walls using a laser level or a water level with a tapping construction cord.
• In all walls around the perimeter of the room, at the level of the drawn horizontal line, every 50 cm, holes are drilled for spacer dowels. Guide profiles are attached to them with self-tapping screws.
• Using metal scissors, longitudinal and transverse elements of the frame are cut according to the appropriate dimensions of the room. If the length of the room is more than 3 m, which is the length of the longitudinal profile, then using a butt connector it can be increased to the required size.
• By fastening the longitudinal and transverse elements together using a cross-shaped connector, the frame is assembled. The cells of the finished frame must correspond to the dimensions plasterboard sheet: 120 x 60 cm.
• Before covering the frame, the plasterboard is cut to the size of the room. In rooms with adjacent windows sheets of drywall are placed along the length of the room. Screw them in with self-tapping screws every 15-20 cm.

Second mounting method

Used in large rooms.

• The distance between the floor slabs and the frame of the suspended structure is calculated based on the design and size lighting fixtures, which are planned to be placed under the ceiling. For sufficiently large chandeliers this distance is 10-15 cm.
• The location of the horizontal line along the perimeter of the room, the attachment of guide profiles to it, the placement of longitudinal and transverse frame elements is carried out in exactly the same way as in the first method.
• Above the frame fastening points, it is necessary to drill holes in the floor slabs and insert spacer dowels into them. Ceiling hangers are attached to them with self-tapping screws, which serve to connect the longitudinal and transverse profiles. If the floor slabs are made of reinforced concrete, then the hangers are attached to them with dowels and nails. Suspensions are available straight and with a clamp. Profiles are attached to straight hangers using self-tapping screws, and hangers with a clamp snap into the curved edges of the profiles.
• In order for the longitudinal profiles of the frame to be in the same plane, it is necessary to align them by adjusting the length of the hangers. Only after completing this procedure can transverse profiles be attached to the longitudinal ones.
• There is a way to attach longitudinal and transverse profiles directly to floor slabs. To level them, you need to drive wooden wedges into the gap between the profile and the slab. The cell size of the lattice formed in this way should be 60 x 40 cm.
• After completing the assembly of the frame, sheets of plasterboard are applied to it, holding them in the desired position with the help of wooden supports. The sheets are placed staggered, shifting every second sheet in relation to the first one by one profile step. Drywall is screwed to the frame profiles with self-tapping screws, at a distance of 20 cm from each other, starting from the middle of the sheet or from one edge to the other. The screws must be deepened into the body of the sheet by 0.5 cm in a strictly perpendicular direction.
• In specialized rooms, to improve fire safety, or simply to improve the quality of sound insulation, plasterboard sheets are laid in two layers. After completing the process of fastening the sheathing material, the sheets of drywall should fit tightly to the frame, without gaps.
• The final step in installing a suspended ceiling is Finishing work, including processing of ceiling tiles with the most various materials: from the beginning

Suspended ceilings are one of the most simple options quick finishing at minimum costs. In this article we will talk in detail about the types of such ceilings and provide instructions for installing them yourself.

Suspended or suspended ceilings are a method of finishing a ceiling in which, at a certain distance from the floor slab, a lath is installed on which the finishing elements are fixed.

Depending on the form factor of these elements, there are suspended ceilings:

• Rack and pinion;
• Cassette;
• Plasterboard.

The fundamental differences between these types of ceiling finishes lie in the design options for the sheathing itself and the materials used for this.

note that circuit diagram the sheathing does not change, this is mandatory:

1. Ceiling Guide Profiles (CNP);
2. Rack profiles (SP) or stringers for slatted ceilings;
3. Suspension system.

But depending on what element the sheathing is being prepared for, different strength profiles are used. As a rule, the manufacturer supplies the market with the entire system necessary for installing a suspended ceiling. In particular, for slatted ceilings, special profiles are used - stringers. They have special grooves for fixing ceiling slats in them. A cassette ceilings, equipped with special suspension systems, original for each manufacturer.

Frame for suspended ceiling

The most universal option is gypsum plasterboard ceiling systems. All metal profiles, hangers and structural elements for them are standardized and interchangeable.

How to assemble a slatted suspended ceiling with your own hands

To work you will need:

1. Laser level;
2. Marker;
3. Roulette;
4. Hammer;
5. Screwdriver;
6. Metal scissors;
7. Drills ᴓ6mm;

Consumables: screws, plastic plugs.

How to install plastic panels

The set of slatted ceilings itself is completed upon request, for each separate room, and should include:

1. Wall corner;
2. Set of transverse clamps;
3. Suspensions;
4. Reiki.

The wall corner will be fixed around the perimeter of the entire room, so before purchasing it is important to know this parameter of the room.

Each manufacturer has its own name for transverse fasteners and are made for specific slats. They may be called traverses or stringers (other options are possible). These elements will be located between the wall corners, and it is to them that the slats will be fixed. Although the slats themselves are quite light, their total mass can somewhat deform the entire surface of the suspended ceiling. Therefore, it is recommended to install transverse clamps in 1 m increments.

But the clamps themselves must be attached to the ceiling using a system of suspensions (they can be called spokes or springs). They bear the main burden.

Marking and fastening the wall corner

Using a laser level, you need to mark out a horizontal line on which the hinged frame will be assembled slatted ceiling. The distance between the main ceiling and the slats is calculated depending on the depth of the recessed luminaires. Considering that flat LED bulbs, this space can be reduced to 3-4 cm.

Special conditions when marking the horizon line should be applied in the case of installing a slatted ceiling in a room with walls finished tiles. In such rooms, the line should run closer to the center of the tile. Otherwise, when fixing the wall corner, the tile may chip.

There are no prepared holes on the wall corner. They need to be drilled out (you can pierce them with a nail). The distance between them should not exceed 40 cm.

The corner with holes is applied to the wall, and the attachment points are marked. The holes for the plugs are drilled with a drill. Then the wall corner is fixed to the prepared place.

It should run around the entire perimeter of the room. In the corners, the bottom shelf is cut at an angle of 45°.

Laying the transverse clamps of the suspended ceiling

The next step is to mark the steps for laying the fixing strips on the walls. The location of the slats directly depends on the placement of these stringers. If the slats are located across the room, then the slats will run along the room. And accordingly, if the clamps are placed lengthwise, the slats will be positioned crosswise.

Transverse clamps are placed on the corners. The distance between each element is indicated by the manufacturer in the instructions. In the absence of a clear definition, maintain a distance of 0.8-1 m.

The length of each clamp varies depending on different manufacturers. But they are quite easy to build up.

IMPORTANT: each fixing profile must have a 5 mm gap at the end on each side.

Attaching hangers

The hangers should be located at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other, along each stringer. All manufacturers of slatted ceilings have their own unique design. Therefore, it is impossible to unify the description of their installation. But the principle is quite simple. First, all the suspensions are attached to the ceiling, then a nylon cord is pulled between the wall corners, along one of the clamps. And already focusing on this lace, they tighten the fixing bar to the required height.

Hanging slats

This is the easiest stage, and is similar in complexity to playing LEGO. Each rail is placed on the seats and pressed slightly until a characteristic click is heard.

Attention: holes for lamps must be cut before installing the rail on.

Some designs of suspended slatted ceilings are equipped with additional elements, which are inserted between the slats. Accordingly, they are installed after completion of the main work.

How to assemble a suspended ceiling from gypsum plasterboard

To work you will need the following tools:

1. Hammer;
2. Screwdriver;
3. Laser level;
4. Roulette;
5. Marker;
6. Metal scissors;
7. Hammer;
8. Construction knife.

Consumables: screws, drills, plastic plugs.

For the bathroom you need to choose a moisture-resistant option

Design elements:

• Wall Guide Profile (PPN);
• Ceiling Profile (PP);
• Suspensions;
• Single-level connector for PP (crab);
• Extension cable for PP;

Some tips:

It is better not to skimp on the structural elements of the sheathing. Choose those profiles with a thickness of at least 0.5 mm. Make sure that there is not even a hint of rust on them, and that there is plenty of lubrication. Large amounts of grease are usually used to mask poor galvanization.

Marking the room and fastening the guide profile (PNP)

Using a laser level, the level of the future suspended ceiling is set and marks are made on the walls. In the guide profile, holes are punched with a core, in increments of 30 cm. Then it is applied to the drawn line on the wall, and the locations for the holes are marked. IN drilled holes insert plastic dowels, hammer them, and cut off the protruding parts with a knife.

The attached profile is fixed with self-tapping screws. In the corners of the room, the profile can be bent. To do this, parallel shelves are cut off.

Based on the results of the work, the guide profile should encircle the entire room at the same level in a monolithic ring.

Ceiling profile installation

Its installation depends on how the drywall sheets will be placed. The gypsum plasterboard standard is 1.2 x 2.5 m. On those walls along which the gypsum board will be located with the long side, marks are placed every 0.5 m.

The ceiling profile is placed every 0.5 m so that the center of each bar falls strictly on the mark. The profiles are fixed with self-tapping screws. If necessary, they are extended using an extension for PP.

The next step is the installation of longitudinal profiles. The distance between them is 1.2 m. This is exactly the width of the gypsum board.

This sheathing element is assembled from sections of a ceiling profile 50 cm long. Fixation to solid profiles is carried out using a “crab” (single-level connector).

The crab is installed from above, with slight pressure until it snaps into place. But in addition, self-tapping screws must be screwed into the mounting holes on each side.

Installing hangers and leveling the sheathing

The entire structure of the sheathing is quite massive, and even without gypsum board it already has a clear sag. Therefore, to strengthen the system, hangers are screwed into the ceiling above all ceiling profiles, in increments of 40-60 cm.

Tip: place hangers above all intersections of profiles. And then add the missing elements along the solid planks.

Mounting the frame on the ceiling

Hangers come in different lengths. And the most convenient way to place them is by bending them with the letter “P”. But if the distance from the ceiling to the sheathing is too large, then you can use them for the entire length. But with the condition that they are placed in pairs, so that they are attached to the profile on both sides.

After fixing all the suspensions to the ceiling, a cord is pulled between the wall guides. Based on this, the sheathing is leveled and only after that the hangers are screwed to the sheathing elements.

Fixation of gypsum boards

An experienced specialist can do this work alone. Using a system of stops and wooden spacers, a sheet of drywall can be lifted by one person and simultaneously attached to the sheathing. But! This requires the proper level of preparation. That's why, For this stage, invite two assistants. Their task is to lift and hold the gypsum board while you fix it.

For screwing it is best to use 3x25 self-tapping screws. The fixation step is 25-30 cm.

IMPORTANT: when tightening each screw, press the gypsum board against the sheathing with your hand.

When a self-tapping screw enters the profile, it comes under tension, and this tension can lead to adjacent screws coming out of the profile.

All screws are screwed flush.

First, entire sheets of drywall are installed and fixed. Then cut out the missing elements, if any are required.

We install plasterboard boards to the frame

To cut gypsum board, a hacksaw is not required. It is enough to mark the cut location and cut through the cardboard layer on both sides with a construction knife. After this, the sheet breaks very smoothly along the cut line.

Strengthening the structure of a suspended ceiling made of gypsum plasterboard

Before leveling the surface with putty, it is necessary to glue all the joints between the sheets with serpyanka.

In new houses, if they have not yet shrunk, it is recommended to cover the entire gypsum plasterboard ceiling with “Gossamer” fiberglass.



Questions about how to make a suspended ceiling with your own hands invariably become the leaders in popularity on construction sites and forums. However, it is quite difficult to find a complete and reasoned answer, so below I tried to systematize my experience in installing such structures. The instructions provided will be useful to both beginners and (at least, I hope!) experienced craftsmen.

Types of ceiling structures

In general, a suspended ceiling is any structure that is installed on a permanent ceiling and sheathed with panels, slabs or slats that form a single plane. However, sometimes such structures are divided into several groups:

1. Actually suspended ceilings- structures made of individual elements fixed to a supporting base. The ceiling is formed from slabs, panels or slats that are laid on tracks or snapped onto rails suspended from the ceiling.
2. Dropped ceilings- structures made of a frame fixed to the ceiling and continuous sheathing (most often plasterboard). If the previous variety is initially attractive appearance, then suspended structures need to be either painted or finished decorative plaster, or paste over with wallpaper.

1. False ceilings- a type of hanging. The main difference is the location of the load-bearing elements: in hemmed varieties they are either installed directly on the ceiling, or are generally part of it ( ceiling beams). For filing, plasterboard, wood, tongue and groove boards, etc. are used.

This classification is largely arbitrary. Strict separation There are no types, so before purchasing or installing, be sure to check which design you have in mind.

If we talk specifically about suspended ceilings, they come in several varieties. You can compare them using the table:

Illustration	Type of suspended ceiling
	Armstrong. Modular design, which consists of a suspension system on which slabs of a fixed size are laid. The most popular type of modular ceilings for office buildings, since they can be mounted at almost any distance from the ceiling.
	Grilyato. Structurally, the system is similar to Armstrong, but lattice modules rather than slabs are used as filling. Each module is assembled from two types of strips, which are connected crosswise. The result is a lattice ceiling covering, through which the overlap and communications are visible.
	Slatted ceiling. Unlike previous varieties, the design of the slatted ceiling is more rigid. The plane is formed by slats made of plastic or aluminum, which snap onto tires fixed to the ceiling or suspended from the main ceiling.

All listed varieties hanging structures features the ability to install it yourself. The technology differs depending on the type of ceiling, so below I will give two main algorithms - for Armstrong and for slatted ceilings.

Type 1. Armstrong ceilings

Design

Armstrong type ceiling is one of the most popular solutions for offices, retail premises, public buildings etc. This is a modular design that can be installed in almost any room:

1. Hanging system attached to ceiling. Rod hangers are responsible for fixing the frame. The length of the suspension can reach 1.5 m or more, which allows you to lower the ceiling level to the required height.
2. Frame consists of two parts. A starting U- or L-shaped profile is mounted on the wall, which ensures the connection of the suspension system with load-bearing structures. The plane is formed using supporting profiles, the edges of which are inserted into starting profile, and the purlins are suspended from the ceiling.

1. Filling. Slabs measuring 60x60 or 60x120 cm are placed in the frame. Panels located along the walls often have to be cut to width.
2. Lamps for Armstrong flows They are almost always produced in dimensions equal to the dimensions of the individual module. Thanks to this, the lamp can be installed in place of the slab almost anywhere on the ceiling.

What you need for installation

Set of parts for installing the Armstrong ceiling:

Illustration	Ceiling Component
	Ceiling hangers: lamellar; rod; spring.
	Frame system: wall profile; load-bearing profiles; additional profiles.
	Plates: standard matte; glossy and semi-glossy; textured; colored; moisture resistant; soundproof.
	Armstrong lamps: with fluorescent lamps; LED
	Wiring Components: wires; cable channels; distribution boxes; terminal blocks.

Set of tools and accessories:

1. Stepladder for working at heights.
2. Laser level.
3. Water level.
4. Roulette.
5. Hammer.
6. Screwdriver.

1. Metal scissors (for cutting profiles).
2. Saw (for fitting slabs).
3. Hand tools (hammer, pliers, knife, etc.).

Slab ceiling installation technology

Installation of Armstrong-type suspended ceilings must be carried out according to a certain algorithm. The sequence of actions is presented in the table:

Illustration	Sequence of actions
	Determining the ceiling level. Using laser level, we determine the height to which we will lower the ceiling. Marks must be made on all walls to guide us during installation.
	Trimming profiles. We cut the starting profile with metal scissors in accordance with the length of each wall. We do the same with load-bearing and intermediate profiles, measuring them according to the ceiling markings.
	Setting up a starting profile. Using anchors with a plastic sleeve, we install the starting profile on the walls. It must be fixed strictly horizontally, so we carefully control its position with a level.
	Installation of hangers. For fastening we use anchors, which we hammer into pre-drilled holes. The optimal dowel diameter is 8 mm, depth is from 45 mm. After fastening, we perform preliminary adjustment of the length of the suspensions, extending their rods to the required distance.
	Fastening of longitudinal load-bearing profiles. We attach load-bearing profiles to the hangers, which run along the room. Focusing on the water level, we adjust the length of the hangers, leveling the future frame.
	Fastening of transverse load-bearing profiles. We join the transverse load-bearing profiles with the longitudinal ones, inserting the protrusions into the technological holes.
	Installation of intermediate profiles. If the hangers are spaced at 120 cm intervals, and 60x60 cm slabs are used to form the ceiling, then we add intermediate profiles to the load-bearing ones. We connect them to the already installed frame using standard fasteners.
	Laying and connecting wiring and lighting. We carry out electrical work: We lay wires along the ceiling in cable ducts fixed to the base with ties or clamps; install distribution boxes; We place lamps in the cells of the frame. We connect the lamps with wiring through terminal blocks.
	Laying whole slabs. Armstrong slabs 60x60 and 60x120 cm are placed in the cells of the frame. As a rule, this can be done without effort: we turn the panel at an angle, place it behind the supporting elements and place it on top, pressing a little to securely fasten it.
	Trimming parts. There is usually no space left at the edges to lay a whole slab. Therefore, the panels have to be trimmed: either with a knife or a plastic saw.
	Laying parts along the edges. We place the trimmed parts in reduced cells along the edges, completely covering the ceiling.

The given algorithm for installing a suspended ceiling can also be used when installing “Griglyato”. The only difference is final stages: instead of solid slabs, we put lattice modules in them. They can be either ready-made or prefabricated from perforated panels.

Type 2. Slat ceilings

Design

Suspended ceiling rack type differs in design from “Armstrong”:

1. Hanging system is quite similar - to install a false ceiling, both rod hangers and plate brackets can be used. The former are longer and no less stable, the latter are many times tougher and stronger.
2. Frame- the main “trick” of the slatted ceiling. It is represented not by standard profiles, but by tires (traverses, stringers), on the lower part of which there are protrusions-latches.

1. Ceiling modules. The slatted ceilings themselves are formed from elements of two types - slats and inserts. They snap onto the protrusions of the supporting rails, and their edges are inserted into the profile around the perimeter of the room. For the manufacture of slats, either plastic (less often) or aluminum with an anti-corrosion coating (more often) is used.

Ceilings closed type include both types of elements - slats and inserts. Open structures are mounted without slats - this makes the ceiling more “airy”, but it masks the ceiling and communications worse.

The undoubted disadvantage of such systems is high price(minimum 800–1000 rubles per square). You can save money by installing the ceiling yourself.

Required materials and tools

To assemble a slatted ceiling you will need:

Illustration	Design element
	Ceiling hangers: rod; lamellar;
	Guide tires.
	Slats and inserts.
	Recessed lamps.

Installation Tool Kit rack and pinion design will be similar to that used when installing Armstrong. The only thing worth paying attention to is the availability of a high-quality metal saw for cutting aluminum slats.

Algorithm for installing a rack and pinion system

Installation instructions for slatted ceiling:

Illustration	Sequencing
	Markings on the walls. Using a laser level, we mark out the line along which the ceiling will be fixed. We apply markings along the line for installation of wall profiles.
	Profile trimming. Using metal scissors, we cut the wall profile, adjusting it to the size of the room. Tires made of fairly thick galvanized steel are easier to cut with a grinder.
	Installation of wall profile. In the walls, according to the markings, we drill holes in increments of about 50 cm. The optimal diameter of the holes is 6 mm, depth is 40–45 mm. We hammer plastic dowels into the holes. We install the wall profile, fixing it with screws with a wide head.
	Installation of support rails. We install load-bearing rails on the ceiling, securing them either to hangers or to the ceiling itself. Optimal step tire mounting - 80–100 cm. We insert the edges of the tires into the starting wall profile. In some cases, this requires cutting and bending parts of the parts.
	Installation of slats. We install slats cut to size on load-bearing frame. To do this, we insert the edges of the slats into the starting profile, and snap the protrusions on the wrong side onto the tire fasteners.
	Preparing holes for built-in lamps. Using a drill with a hole saw, we cut out holes for the built-in lights. If there is no crown, the aluminum can be cut with a knife by carefully bending the cut parts into the ceiling.
	Installation of slats with holes for light. We mount the rails with installed lamp rings opposite the wires supplied from the distribution panel or box. We bring wires into the holes, to which we connect the built-in lamps using terminal blocks.
	Longitudinal trimming of the last slats. The last rail often has to be adjusted in width. To accurately trim the edges, the easiest way is to make cuts in increments of about 10 cm, and then carefully remove excess fragments with scissors.
	Installation of inserts. Finally, we close the gaps between the slats with insert profiles. The inserts simply snap into place and align to the width.

The advantage of the resulting structure will be good tightness and moisture resistance. In addition, a correctly assembled slatted ceiling looks very neat!

Conclusion

It is quite possible to install a suspended ceiling - modular or slatted - yourself. When installing, use the recommendations in the text and video in this article. Any questions you may have can be asked in the comments to the material: either I or my colleagues will definitely help you understand the intricacies and nuances.