Bar calculator: what it can calculate and how to check the result. Preliminary calculation of materials for building a house from a bar
Material calculation
| TOTAL: on the walls | 246648 rub. |
| FOUNDATION: | |
| crushed stone preparation: | |
| 7.6 m³ x 1900 rub/m³ | 14440 rub. |
| concrete mortar B15: | |
| 5.8 m³ x 4200 rub/m³ | 24360 rub. |
| concrete mortar B15: | |
| 25.2 m³ x 4200 rub./m³ | 105840 rub. |
| reinforcing steel Ø10, 12, 14 AIII: | |
| 1.7 t x 37500 rub/ton | 63750 rub. |
| foundation blocks FBS 24-3-6: | |
| 39 pcs. x 2360 rub./pc. | 92040 rub. |
| cement-sand mortar: | |
| 1.1 m³ x 2700 rub/m³ | 2970 rub. |
| pine lumber for formwork: | |
| 1.2 m³ x 6500 rub/m³ | 7800 rub. |
| roofing tape RKK-350: | |
| 3 rolls x 315 rubles/roll (10m²) | 945 rub. |
| TOTAL: on the foundation | 312145 rub. |
| COVERS: | |
| pine beams 150x50; 170x100; 150x100: | |
| 2.8 m³ x 7000 rub/m³ | 19600 rub. |
| plasterboard panels Knauf (2500x1200x10): | |
| 18 pcs. x 260 rub./pc. | 4680 rub. |
| galvanized profile with fasteners: | |
| 150.8 l.m x 50 rub./l.m | 7540 rub. |
| mineral insulation (Rockwool): | |
| 13 m³ x 3700 rub/m³ | 48100 rub. |
| : | |
| 125 m² x 68 rubles/m² | 8500 rub. |
| vapor barrier film p/ethylene: | |
| 125 m² x 11 rubles/m² | 1375 rub. |
| plywood FK 1525x1525x18: | |
| 0.9 m³ x 19000 rub/m³ | 17100 rub. |
| subfloor boarding: | |
| 1 m³ x 6500 rub./m³ | 6500 rub. |
| TOTAL: by floors | 113395 rub. |
| ROOF: | |
| wooden bars (150x50mm): | |
| 2.7 m³ x 7000 rub/m³ | 18900 rub. |
| wood protection solution: | |
| 39 l x 75 rubles/liter | 2925 rub. |
| waterproof fabric (Tyvek Soft): | |
| 119 m² x 68 rubles/m² | 8092 rub. |
| bituminous euroslate 2000x950x2.7: | |
| 69 sheets x 399 rubles/sheet | 27531 rub. |
| roofing nails 73x3mm: | |
| 15 pack. x 190 rubles / pack (250 pcs.) | 2850 rub. |
| ridge element (1000mm): | |
| 12 pcs. x 290 rub./pc. | 3480 rub. |
| plank filing of the crate 100x25mm: | |
| 0.9 m³ x 7000 rub/m³ | 6300 rub. |
10:0,0,0,220;0,290,220,220;290,290,220,0;290,0,0,0|5:180,180,0,220;0,180,90,90;180,290,133,133|1130:223,133|1330:155,30;155,100|2248:0,128|2148:73,0;73,220;211,220|2419:290,42;290,83|1930:215,-20
RUB 803,816.0
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Calculation of the cost of work
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An example of a layout of 9x7 m for calculation |
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1.
Timber material 150x150mm; 2. mineral wool boards d=100mm; 3. Siding panel; 4. Air gap d=20-50mm; 7. Wooden beams d=150-250mm; 8. Roofing from ondulin; 9. The foundation is slab monolithic with block walls h=1.8m; |
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Wall made of timber material with siding profile trim and internal heat insulator
timber wall
The features of wooden-beam housing have been proven to neutralize toxic substances, automatically adjust the amount of humidity in the range of 45-55%, and also have a beneficial effect on the psyche of residents.The popularity of wooden-log architecture in our country is predetermined by the economy, tradition and healthy environment of housing construction from a natural array.
At construction bases, it is possible to find lumber products of sizes 150x100, 200x150, 100x100, 140x140, 180x180, 150x150, 120x120, of which the 150x150 type is the most purchased, as it provides the optimal combination of installation labor intensity, given by the number of horizontal seams, and thermal insulation qualities , and also affordable price.
It should be added that now the share of sales of profiled, in particular, prefabricated glued timber, is clearly growing, which is characterized, in comparison with non-glued wood, by 10 times lower compressibility during drying, as well as increased, due to studded joints, structural and thermal insulation qualities . An obvious negative point that slows down the widespread use of glued laminated lumber is its significant cost, which, however, is compensated a hundredfold by its long service life.
An approximate procedure for laying a log cabin:
- First, on the top of the foundation, covered with waterproof material, along the line of the walls, the lower beam row is laid out, which is tied "in the paw" at the corners and at the points of attachment of the intermediate walls.
- To prevent door and window structures from deforming during the shrinkage of a wooden house, door and window niches are surrounded on the sides with a “pigtail” - rack-profiles. To do this, a trapezoidal spike is cut out at the ends of the logs, onto which, with the help of a reciprocal cutout, the named profiled bars are pushed. At the top of doors and windows, technological slots are arranged, laid with flax-jute or basalt insulation.
- During the installation of the log house, the log rows are covered with an inter-row compactor: felt, jute, flax jute, hemp, flax, tow, which a year later (or when the moisture content of the tree becomes 12-15 percent) will have to be re-compacted a second time in order to reduce heat loss through the gaps between logs.
- In order to connect the beams of the near crowns, dowel fastening is used (rounded birch or oak rods with a diameter of Ø30-40 mm), which are inserted with a gap into the holes made through the three crowns of the beams, in increments of 0.3 ... 0.4 m. Often, the dowel fastening is replaced with large nails (250 ... 300 mm), with obligatory drilling in the last log of the channel, 30 ÷ 40 mm deep, where the nail head is buried, to compensate for linear compression wooden material when dry.
- When choosing interior decoration be aware of permanent deformations of the wooden material and, when fastening non-wood facing boards (e.g. drywall), avoid direct connections to timber wall, through the device of suspended buffer profile structures.
siding cladding
In the case when winter habitation is expected, it is recommended that the timber structure is also thermally insulated. Usually, from the street side, in vertical position, thick boards are mounted, 100x50 mm in size, in increments of 0.4 ... Knauf, Izorok, after that a vapor-permeable film (Tyvek, Yutavek, Izospan) is stretched, lined with bars, 25-50 mm thick, along which the front false wall is installed (PVC siding, wooden lining or DSP boards).
You need to know that the PVC siding profile will be used for many years and have a beautiful appearance, only if the installation rules are strictly observed.
Manufacturers of plastic siding profiles, such as Snowbird, Gentek, Docke, Nordside, AltaProfile, Ortho, Holzplast, Tecos, Varitek, Georgia Pacific, Mitten, FineBer, Vytec, announce a rich color scheme that allows any building to retain its individuality.
Since the PVC siding profile changes linear dimensions very much with temperature fluctuations, it is important to provide for non-rigid attachment of vinyl plates.
Polyvinyl chloride siding does not rot, is resistant to shock, biological, climatic aggression, does not support combustion.
The vinyl profile under the influence of an open flame only melts, igniting when heated to more than 390 ° C (moreover, wood is already at 230-260 ° C), quickly extinguishing when the heating source disappears, while the amount of emissions hazardous to health is no more significant than when burning materials from wood.
Important points for fixing PVC siding:
- Installation of PVC panels is carried out "from the ground", and, at first, a hidden initial strip is fixed.
- To compensate for free compressions or expansions of polymer siding, slots should be provided, within 1 cm, in the input areas of external networks (pipes, wires, brackets, cables), as well as in docking areas plastic panel and accessories (outer corner, inner corner, H-profile, trim, etc.).
- It is unacceptable to tighten the self-tapping screws with force in the fixing grooves, because the siding profiles are suspended in such a way as to move freely from side to side.
- In order not to interfere with thermal shifts and, accordingly, not to provoke wave-like warping vinyl material, screwing in self-tapping screws and nailing into the siding panel is more correct at the central point of the existing technological perforations.
- When hanging the next strip of siding, dock it behind the trailing ledge with the underlying profile and, without deforming, fix it with screws;
- It is recommended to install vinyl profiles starting from the side wall of the building, moving to the front side, while each next siding panel will overlap the previous one in the stacked row, approximately 2.5-3 cm - this approach makes it possible to make inconspicuous joints, with for the same purpose, the arising joints, for connecting rows, must be shifted horizontally.
Foundation made of reinforced concrete slab and prefabricated block tape
The prefabricated slab foundation is constructed over the entire area of the structure in the form of a solid reinforced slab, on which standard reinforced concrete blocks are mounted.
The considered type of foundation is used in low-rise housing construction to obtain the basement level of the house, on heterogeneous soils, in a situation of low level groundwater. On wetlands, it is recommended to perform the side walls of the foundation using a monolithic method, using waterproof measures (coating, impregnation, gluing).
At the same time, the prefabricated block system of vertical foundation walls, according to the existing reinforced concrete slab, is indispensable with limited construction time, as well as in the production of foundation work in the winter.
An exemplary methodology for performing an integral slab foundation side walls in the form of a prefabricated reinforced concrete tape:
- At the beginning, the land is removed to the planned mark.
- Gravel preparation is poured onto the resulting sub-base, fractions 20-40, with a layer of 15-20 cm, and carefully compacted.
- Concrete pouring is carried out, with a layer of 50 mm.
- A waterproofing film is applied with an offset of 2000 mm along the border, in order to further waterproof the foundation sidewalls.
- To protect the waterproofing membrane from accidental ruptures during welding of the reinforcing structure, another layer of sand-cement mortar, 5 cm thick, is applied over the insulating coating, along the perimeter of which formwork panels are mounted along the thickness of the foundation slab.
- Manufactured foundation slab tighten from the inside with two meshes of welded reinforcing bars of section d14 of type AII-AIII with cells of 20x20 cm.
- In the case of a slab foundation, ready-made concrete is required, grades not lower than M300, supplied by an automixer.
- Curing time concrete mortar, when the perimeter of ready-made concrete blocks should be laid out, is from 4 weeks, with heat from + 15 ± 5 °.
- The laying of concrete blocks is carried out relative to the center lines, along two mutually perpendicular walls, guided by geodetic equipment. Prefabricated blocks are laid with a crane on a "bed" of sand-cement mortar.
- The installation begins with the laying of lighthouse blocks at the crosshairs of the axes and at the corners of the building. The laying of wall blocks is started only after the alignment of the position of the landmark blocks along the horizon and level.
- On the top row of reinforced concrete blocks, in a panel formwork form, a reinforced reinforced concrete screed is made, 25 cm thick.
Covering from wooden beams
For beam ceiling coniferous wood (spruce, pine, larch) with a moisture content of less than 14 percent is traditionally used. The best beam is a bar with section proportions 7/5 (for example, 0.14x0.10 m).
In summer cottage construction, floors from wooden beams, due to the simplicity and low cost of their construction.
When planning a timber-and-beam floor, it is necessary to use special diagrams that determine the correlation of the dimensions of the beam from the distance between the supports and the load; it is also permissible to build on the simplified calculation that the wide side of the beam should be approximately 1/24 of the beam length, and the thickness should be 5 ÷ 10 cm, with intervals between beam boards of 50 - 100 cm and a load of 1.5 kPa.
With a deficit of a lag of the calculated section, it is permissible to use boards tightened with bolts, subject to the obligatory observance of the total size.
Some features of the installation of wood beams:
- The installation of beams is done in the following order: first, the first and last, and then, with leveling at the optical level, all the others. The bars should be wound onto the wall structure no shorter than 150-200 mm.
- The logs are moved away from the wall by at least 50 mm, and the distance between the beams and the smoke channel must be at least 0.40 m.
- in wooden buildings, the ends of the lag are hemmed in the shape of a cone, and then they are hammered into the completed drank of the upper crown to the full thickness of the wall log.
- As a rule, in brick walls, the ends of the beams are installed in masonry nests, in which condensate appears, therefore, between the cut ends of the log and the wall, they leave space for air circulation, and with a significant depth of the opening, an additional felt layer is placed.
- To avoid mold, which occurs when steam diffuses into the environment brick wall, the ends of the beam boards are cut with an inclination of about 60 degrees, treated with an antiseptic (Tikkurila, Kartocide, Dulux, Biofa, Pinotex, Tex, Cofadex, Biosept, KSD, Holzplast, Senezh, Teknos, Aquatex) and covered with roofing paper, leaving the end open.
The attic floor is insulated with the implementation of a vapor barrier layer under the insulation, the basement floor is thermally insulated with the installation of a vapor barrier film on top of the insulation layer, and the interfloor ceiling is not subject to insulation.
If the question of the load capacity of wooden floors is mainly settled by the method of an obvious increase in the cross section of the beams and their number, then the situation with fire resistance and acoustic insulation is somewhat more complicated.
One of the options for increasing soundproof and fire retardant performance lumber interlevel ceilings consists of the following steps:
- To the bottom of the beam beams, perpendicular to them, with the help of elastic holders, after 30-40 cm, bars-sheathing are installed, on which gypsum boards are attached from below.
- On the upper surface of the resulting lattice structure, a fiberglass film is laid and attached with a stapler to the beams, on which mineral fiber plates are tightly laid out, such as: Izorok, Ursa, Isover, Knauf, Izomin, Rockwool, with a layer of 50 mm, with a transition to the side faces of the beams.
- In rooms of the next level, a layer of chipboard (16 ÷ 25 mm) is nailed onto the beams, after that, a hard mineral fiber sound absorber (25 ÷ 30 mm), and chipboard boards of the "floating" floor are laid again.
Bituminous slate roof
Soft slate (aka, ondulin slate, ondulin, euroslate, bituminous slate, bituminous slate), in fact, is a molded cardboard-cellulose material, fixed with a distilled bitumen compound and colored with a polymer, UV-resistant, coloring composition. bituminous slate is made under various brands (Bituwell, Aqualine, Nuline, Onduline, Guttanit, Ondura, Corrubit). The usual dimensions of corrugated sheets: 2000x950, the number of waves is 10.
The main qualities of bitumen slate roofing- speed of construction and affordable cost. In part weaknesses, it is worth mentioning a fairly short-lived loss of color vibrancy, as well as a noticeable combustibility of bitumen-cardboard material, compared to metal tiles.
The roofing material is laid on a solid base made of a sheathing layer and rafters.
In the case of private buildings, a two- or three-span structure with intermediate supporting walls and inclined rafters is usually used.
The interval between the rafter legs is usually performed in the range of 0.60 ... 0.90 m with a width / thickness of the rafter legs 5x15 ... 10x15 cm; the supporting ends of the rafter beams are fixed to a fixing beam measuring 100x100 ... 150x150 mm.
- The transverse overlap of the bituminous slate sheets and the frequency of laying the sheathing are determined by the slope of the roof slope: if the angle is more than 15 degrees, then the gap between the boards of the sheathing structure is set to 0.30 ... 0.35 m, and the overlap is 17 centimeters.
- It is better to fasten corrugated sheets of ondulin from the lower zone of the side part of the slope, opposite to the leeward side, to protect them from wrapping during hurricane loads.
- The next layer is laid with a shift of half a canvas, from the canvases of the underlying tier, in order to avoid unnecessary layering in the joints of four adjacent sheets, which contributes to the formation of leaks.
- Sheets of euroslate are fixed along the bottom edge into each wave crest, along two intermediate crate boards into odd wave crests, and the top is covered with an overlap of the upper sheet or a ridge detail. To fix each corrugated sheet, about twenty self-cutting roofing screws (size 65.0x5.5 mm) or nails are enough: length / diameter -73.5 / 3.0 mm with elastomeric washers.
- Ordinary overlapping of canvases is enough to arrange in one wave, and with a roof slope of less than 10-11 degrees. - in 2 corrugated waves.
- The ridge is strengthened from the side of laying corrugated sheets, with an overlap of 0.2 m, with screws screwed into each corrugation vertex of the underlying corrugated fabric.
- In order to protect and decorate the side sections of the roof slope, chip profiles are used, the fixing of which starts from the corner above the eaves, overlapping by 0.2 m.
The calculation of the timber for the house is necessary in order to determine the required amount of lumber for the construction of the truss system, the implementation of formwork and the overlapping of the floors of the construction site. Its correct calculation is especially important when building cottages from glued or sawn timber.
How to calculate the amount of timber per house?
In order to correctly navigate the needs of lumber, it is necessary to make a building project indicating exact dimensions, on which the length of the beam depends. Regarding its thickness, it is important to consider the following factors:
- for a private house or a bath, a beam with a section of 200x200 mm is suitable;
- for seasonal construction, it is possible to use wood with parameters of 100x100 mm or 150x150 mm.
Based on the fact that the cost of wood building material indicated in cubic meters, to calculate the exact number of pieces of logs in 1 cubic meter, you need to make a simple calculation:
1m3/Z/W/L, where
- Z is the width of the board;
- W is the thickness of the board;
- L is the length of the board.
The design of the house provides for the calculation of the required volume of ceiling and floor beams, the determination of lumber for the truss system, external walls, gables, internal partitions.
Often, ceiling and floor beams with a section of 100x150 mm are used in construction with a step of 0.7 to 1 meter. In order to determine their number, you must use the formula:
- Ld is the length of the house;
- Ls is the length of the applied step.
Taking into account the fact that lumber is sold by the supplier in cubic meters, the calculation of the cubature of a bar involves multiplying its cross-sectional area and linear length.
The calculation of the beam for external walls and load-bearing partitions provides for the determination of the area and thickness of the walls. Multiplying these parameters will give the total volume of timber required for the construction of these structural elements.
Calculator for calculating the cubature of timber
For an accurate calculation of the cubature of lumber on truss system require the use of special arithmetic algorithms. The beam calculation calculator will greatly simplify the task. The correct determination of the required building material guarantees the reliability of the construction of the building structure and saves financial costs.
The program will allow you to calculate the beam online by entering the initial data. By changing the given parameters, you can compare several projects and choose the most profitable one from a financial point of view. By processing the individual parameters of the house project, the calculator will make the most accurate calculation, eliminating the risk of overpaying for extra material. It is important to consider the possible percentage of rejects, which is about 5% of the total volume of lumber.
A log house is relevant, but far from always convenient, since the walls need to be leveled with sheathing, a wooden profile is much more practical, so sometimes it’s better calculate the amount of timber per house.
What you need to know to calculate the amount of timber per house?
- is it a little, or a lot, and how many crowns of the house will this amount of timber be enough for? In fact, this is not such a large number of products from the woodworking industry. In particular, six-meter bars with a width and height of 200 millimeters each will amount to only 4.17 pieces, or, since sellers like to round down, only 4 units. True, if you need more than 10 cubes, such rounding can play a cruel joke, and you will miss one or even two lumber that you need so much. Therefore, it is necessary to calculate the amount of timber per house as accurately as possible.
To begin with, determine the dimensions of the future building, that is, the length and height of the walls, the area of \u200b\u200bwindow and door openings, the step frequency of the crossbars (hardly in wooden house you will be pouring a monolithic concrete slab). You will also need to take into account the height of the rafter legs, and if the gables are made in the same style as the building, then their geometry. In other words, immediately estimate where your timber will be used, and include all the nuances in the calculations. Also immediately consider using profiled, glued or rough logs, the latter are cheaper, but will decrease somewhat in size after processing in place.
Concerning overall dimensions, then from existing options with a section of 100x100, 150x100, 120x120, 140x140, 150x150, 200x150, 180x180 and 200x200 centimeters, the golden mean is usually chosen. Dimensions 150x150 fully meet the requirements for timber, both in terms of thermal conductivity and ease of assembly. Reducing the dimensions will lead to an increase in the amount of materials, which means more labor costs, even if the volume in cubes is the same. An increase in size will mean an increase in the cost of the timber, its mass.
We use the beam calculator in practice
Since it is rare for anyone to buy (and sell) lumber by the piece, when tens or hundreds of units of one type or another are required, we need to determine how many cubic meters of lumber to purchase. To do this, you need to know the dimensions of the house, and since they are reflected in the plan, it is enough to include them in the beam calculator. Let's say a small country cottage is being built 6x5 meters, with a ceiling height of 3 meters. It is best to buy a corresponding six-meter wooden profile. Knowing the height of the wall, we divide it by the side of the section of the lumber we have chosen. Since we previously settled on dimensions of 150x150 centimeters, we get 3 / 0.15 \u003d 20 bars, which will make up the wall of the building.
I must say that insulation is usually placed between the crowns, which should increase the height, but shrinkage wooden profile compensates for this error in our calculation. We add a plinth crown, which gives 21 beams, and then we calculate how many similar woodworking products will be obtained in the entire building. To do this, we multiply the result we obtained earlier by 4 (by the number of walls). However, it is unlikely that there will be one room in the house, so the fifth wall immediately appears, the inner one, which can also be capital, taking into account the minimum span of 5 meters. So, we multiply by 5. As a result, it turns out that 105 bars will be needed to build a house. Too much? Let's see how we can save.
Recall that the rooms should have windows and doors, which mean the presence of fair openings. Suppose the entrance from the street is planned in a five-meter facade, exactly in the middle, and it will be exactly a meter wide. Since here the crowns are a meter shorter than the actual length of the timber, it turns out that we need 2-meter segments to form the doorway. Then from every two bars you get exactly three crowns on this side. If the inner door between the rooms is on the edge, four-meter profiles will be needed there, the trimmings of which can also be used to create an external opening. Thus, for every three crowns of this wall, we save one beam until the jumper is laid over the entrance.
Sometimes sawn in the form of spikes, the ends of the lumber from which the house is composed, in the door and window openings rest against the groove of the riser, the width of which is equal to the thickness of the wall.
If the door height is 2.1 meters, we will have 14 crowns, that is, there will be 4 six-meter wooden profiles in the balance. In the same way, you can save on windows by correctly arranging them in the general layout of the premises, and then, quite possibly, you will need not 105, but some 98 bars. Use those that you can guess for the attic floor and fastening the rafters, since such material will not work as interfloor lags, you need a profile there, the sides of which are related as 7: 5, and the height is the first in proportion.
How to calculate the cube of timber per house - the simplest method
We have already obtained the result necessary for further calculations, namely, the number of wooden profiles that will be needed for construction. Now you need to determine how to calculate the cube of timber per house, and how much lumber is needed. Knowing the dimensions of the product of the woodworking industry, from which the crowns are knitted, it is not difficult to obtain its volume. In our case, this will be the formula V = h . b . l = 0.15 . 0.15 . 6 = 0.135 cubic meters, Here h- beam height, b is the width, and l- length. We find out how many units of lumber are in 1 cube as follows: 1 / 0.135 \u003d 7.41 pieces. They may not sell that much, sellers do not like sawing a six-meter beam, so they can cut it down to 7, or you will have to pay up to 8 beams.
But, since we need a lot of materials, and we know that the number of profiles will be an integer, we calculate how many cubic meters of a wooden profile will have to be transported to the site. We multiply the total quantity by the volume of one, for example, we managed to save money and really got 98 bars, then we get 0.135 . 98 = 13.23 cubes. However, all these calculations can be eliminated using the following table.
The number of timber in 1 cubic meter for calculating the beam on the house
[Section]x[length] beam, | Volume 1 piece, | The amount of timber in 1 m 3, |
|---|---|---|
Can go more simple way. To do this, we calculate the perimeter of the house, multiply it by the height of the walls and get the total area of \u200b\u200bthe outer surface of the building, with the exception of the roof. Next, we subtract the area of window and door openings, if high accuracy is needed, or leave it as is, if the savings are not critical. The calculation is completed by multiplying by the thickness of the beam. In our case, the short formula will look like this V = P. H. b=27. 3 . 0.15 \u003d 12.15 cubic meters excluding the basement crown and based on the fact that 3 walls are 5 meters each. As you can see, such a calculation is less accurate, since the length of all lumber is 6 meters, and we took many for five meters.
Building a wooden house requires careful preliminary calculation and preparation of the most detailed budget. Any large construction project is associated with significant costs, and it is important to initially correctly assess the financial possibilities and present all future costs.
An important expense item is the foundation, but the “box” itself will become the most expensive part, so you need to perform a preliminary calculation of the material for a house from a bar. In this case, it is advisable to consult with a professional architect and builders who know the real prices on the materials market.
Which timber to choose for construction
First you need to choose the material for the house from the timber. It differs both in characteristics and in cost:
- The cheapest option ordinary timber natural humidity. It is the most common, but the least reliable. During the drying process, it can significantly deform, which leads to the formation of cracks and crevices in the walls.
- Dried timber - wood material that has passed a preliminary chamber drying. Most of the natural moisture is removed from it, so it will be more reliable, but the cost will also increase significantly.
- Profiled timber is an even more expensive type of material that will allow you to build a completely smooth walls without gaps between the crowns. A special system of spikes and grooves on the top and bottom sides will allow you to build a building with the most durable walls.
- Glued laminated timber - the leader in cost. This is not quite a bar, since it is not made from solid wood, but from several layers of wood glued together. Such material requires long processing, and it will be very expensive.
Thus, the calculation of material for building a house from a bar begins with an analysis construction market and choice suitable material. When this issue is resolved, you can proceed directly to the calculations.
How much material is required to build a log house
The calculation of the material for building a house from a bar can be carried out using a special calculator program that is posted on construction sites. This will speed up the calculation, but the result will still only be an approximation. You can also calculate the material manually using the following parameters:
- Bar section. It depends on the required thermal conductivity: for a house without additional insulation, a beam with a section of 200x200 mm is required: this is quite expensive, so future owners often prefer to purchase a thinner and cheap material and then insulate the building with inexpensive materials. Build a building for permanent residence permissible from a bar with a thickness of 150x150 mm or 150x100 mm.
- House dimensions. The standard project is a building made of timber 6x6 meters in size, as it will allow you not to connect the timber to each other.
- The height of each floor. The minimum height from floor to ceiling is 2.5 m, often it is made higher so that later you do not limit yourself in the choice of furniture and finishes.
- area of windows and doorways. It is clear that what more area windows, the less material is required. When developing a building project, the dimensions of the openings are indicated in the drawings, these values \u200b\u200bare used for calculations.
An example of calculating materials for a standard house
It will be of great help in calculating the required amount of timber for building a house. But let's try to perform simple calculations on a simple example.
The calculation of materials for a house from a bar requires making fairly simple calculations that make you remember school lessons geometry.
Preliminary calculation of the material for a log house:
Required to build small house with linear dimensions 6x6x2.5 meters. For construction, you need to purchase an ordinary bar with a section of 200x200 mm. It is planned to make a door with an opening size of 800x2000 mm in the building, in addition, it will have two windows measuring 600x800 mm.
Let's move on to the calculations:
- The perimeter of the house: 6 * 4 = 24 meters. We multiply this value by the height: 24 * 2.5 \u003d 60 square meters. meters - the total area of \u200b\u200bthe walls.
- We calculate the area of windows. We multiply 0.8 * 2 \u003d 1.6 square meters. m. - door area, 0.6 * 0.8 * 2 \u003d 0.96 m. - area of \u200b\u200btwo windows. These values must be subtracted from total area walls: 60 - 1.6 - 0.96 - 57.44 sq. m. - this is the area of \u200b\u200bthe house.
- Since the thickness of the timber is 0.2 meters, the volume of the walls is calculated as follows: 57.44 * 0.2 = 11.488 cubic meters of timber will be required for construction.
Important points when calculating the material
If you need to build a house from a bar, the calculation of materials will always be approximate. It is imperative to add at least 15% to the obtained value, which will be required for trimming, damage, arranging corners, etc.
The timber is required not only for the construction of the box, but also for the installation of rafters, floor logs, ceilings, etc. As a result, in the final calculations, the amount of timber increases by about a fifth.
The exception is the construction of a house from a finished house kit. In this case, together with the architect, the exact amount of materials that will be required for construction is calculated, and all parts are pre-treated in the factory.
A ready-made set of numbered parts arrives at the construction site, from which the building is being erected, like a large constructor. All the details are exactly adjacent to each other, nothing needs to be adjusted and modified. You only have to buy fasteners and heaters, and the work can be completed faster.
The calculation of lumber should take into account not only the purchase of the timber itself. You will need an inch board for the construction of a rough and fifty for a finished floor of a given area, material for construction roofing cake and other expenses.
Every wooden element used in construction must be treated with antiseptics and flame retardants, finished house needs to be painted or otherwise finished. The walls can be sheathed with drywall and additionally insulated.
