Attach the surge protector to the wall. Do-it-yourself immovable extension cord. Preparing to assemble the extension
Hello to all do-it-yourselfers!
In everyday life, we all often have to use various extension cords. Moreover, if for street conditions or suburban area mainly extension cords with a long cable, several tens of meters long, are used, then for premises (sheds, garages, workshops or at home), such extension cords with a block for three, four sockets and a wire length of 3 to 5 are most often used. 7 meters.
In my experience, I have found that when using such extension cords, it is best to hang them on the wall. In this case, neither the extension cord itself, nor its wire, as well as the wires of electric tools connected to it, will interfere, as if you simply put the extension cord on the floor.
However, the problem is that not all manufacturers make canopy holes on the back wall of their extension blocks, thanks to which they can be hung on the wall.
Here, for example, on this extension, there are such canopies.
And this one doesn't have them.
Of course, you can make canopies on the back wall of the block yourself by drilling holes in it. However, this is often dangerous, as it can lead to injury. electric shock and sometimes not very convenient.
I found a simple way out of this situation by doing the following on many of my extension cords: wooden awnings from small boards.
And to make such a canopy is quite simple.
For this, from the materials you will need:
- two small screws;
- as well as a small plank, 10-12 mm thick, one and a half to two times longer than the length of the extension block and slightly wider than it.
Of the tools you will need:
- electric jigsaw with a saw;
- an electric drill with a feather drill for wood, with a diameter of 20-25 mm, and a drill for metal with a diameter of 4 mm;
- as well as a screwdriver.
The procedure for making a canopy
First, from one end of the blank board, in the center, you need to drill like this through hole, pen drill for wood.
Then, stepping back a short distance from the edge of the circle drilled earlier, drill another hole with a diameter of 4 mm.
Exactly the same hole must be drilled from the other end of the plank.
In this case, the main thing is that the distance from the edge of the circle to the upper hole.
And from the end of the plank to the bottom hole were the same.
After that, using a jigsaw, you need to cut the grooves to the top and bottom holes.
And then you can round the ends of the plank, although this is not necessary.
The canopy board itself can be slightly processed sandpaper and paint or varnish, although this is also not necessary. Well, after that, it remains only to fix the extension block on our canopy.
To do this, you need to disassemble the block into two parts by unscrewing the screws and removing the cover with sockets and terminals.
And at the ends of the rear wall of the block, you need to drill two holes with a diameter of 4 mm, and screw it with small screws to the canopy.
After that, the block can be assembled.
And now our extension with a canopy is ready!
Using a canopy for an extension in work
After that, it can be easily hung on the wall by screwing two screws into it. Moreover, you can hang the extension cord either vertically.
Or horizontally, which seems more convenient to me, especially for an extension cord with a switch.
By the way, this extension cord constantly hangs on my porch wall, near the main outlet.
I must say that this is very convenient, since the main, rather powerful socket is used to connect a large load, for example, electric welding. And in the event that you need to connect several power tools, I just use this extension cord by connecting it to this outlet.
If this extension is needed elsewhere, it can be removed very quickly and then hung back.
So using extension cords with similar canopies is very convenient!
Well, that's all for me! Bye everyone and good luck in the new year!
The growth in the number of devices for which it is necessary to establish a connection point inside an industrial or residential building has led to the development of many ways to fix the cable to the wall, both at the construction stage and in a long-term and well-established room. In various situations, you have to choose how to fix the wires on the wall so that they do not spoil the interior with their appearance, comply with electrical safety rules, and be protected from external environmental influences and accidental damage. A significant aspect is the rational consumption of material and cost savings.
Types of wiring
The need to attach the wire to the wall is first considered in terms of the expected service life. Power cables wires coming from junction boxes are intended for long-term use. Communication lines and television connections are of the temporary type, capable of changing their position if necessary.
Based on this, there are 2 types of laying electrical communications:
- open wiring, when the line is fastened to the outer surface of the structures and the entire network is available for inspection and partial repair;
- concealed wiring is laid in the wall materials (walled) and is available for operations at the points of connection to it (sockets, connectors) or intermediate switching (boxes, shields).
If the hidden laying of the wire is made in corrugated or smooth pipes, then in these areas subsequent fast is possible.
An example of mounting in smooth PVC pipes kah is shown in a series of photos:
In technical rooms, such wiring may remain uncovered with a layer of plaster; in residential apartments, it is under a layer of finish.
Concrete concrete factories even produce special types of panels with internal slabs and design outlet points to connection boxes.
Influence of base material
Another factor influencing the choice of methods for attaching the cable to the wall will be its design and materials of manufacture.
The load-bearing and internal walls of the building are erected in the following options:
- reinforced concrete panels;
- brickwork (solid, hollow, multilayer, combined);
- wooden (logs / timber);
- bulk monolithic concrete;
- sip panels;
- frame-panel construction.
In each case, it is necessary to decide which fasteners to use for the selected type of wiring.
Brickwork
Diagram and method of how to fix the cable on brick wall, choose based on the available tools and materials. Masonry, as a rule, is not left without protective coating plaster, so the wiring will be closed type.
At large volume work will need a puncher and a grinder for alignment. Short sections can be worked with a chisel and hammer by hand.
An example of wiring on a brick wall is visible in the photo:
It is possible to securely fix the fit of the wires to the wall simple ways that do not require the cost of special fasteners: quick-drying mortar (alabaster, gypsum, glue), wire to driven nails / screws, strips of tin + nails. The main condition is a reliable fastening without the possibility of displacement or sagging.
After the cable laying is completed, the channels will be. So that they do not affect the monolithic structure of the applied solution, the recesses are covered with a reinforcing mesh.
Monolithic hard surfaces
TO concrete wall wires are attached with dowels using mounting gun or manual drilling of holes for the installation of a plastic sleeve, to which a fixing bracket or clamp is screwed with a screw.
Variant looks like plastic fastener, shown in the photo:
As fasteners, depending on the diameter of the cable (wire bundle), staples, perforated metal tape industrial production and self-manufacturing.
The use of a mounting gun on various types of fasteners for cables and corrugations on concrete is demonstrated in the video:
Laying in pipes
Monolithic concrete surfaces not, the wires are fastened on trays, in pipes or using corrugations. The wiring can be left open, mounted inside the wall during its construction, or hidden under finishing. Sometimes, simplifying the work, channels are cut in the slabs fixed formwork, but such a solution leads to a violation of the uniformity of the heat-insulating protection of the house in places where the material of polystyrene foam plates is removed.
The passage Ø of various standardized products allows you to choose the material in which you can lay the appropriate number of supply wires. Characteristics of corrugated PVC pipes for laying power networks are presented in the table:
Before installing the corrugation on design scheme into the bulk wall, you need to thread a soft wire into it, so that later you can easily get the wires. If you need to lay several cables diverging in different sides in intermediate fittings (tees, elbows, crosses), then thread right amount wires in directions, and the corresponding ends are marked in different colors(paint, colored tape).
If such preparation for pulling a soft core is not done in advance, then you will have to use a cable (approximately Ø 3 mm), which confidently passes into the pipe at a distance of 3 - 4 m. , did not get stuck, did not damage it when feeding forward with scrolling.
In conditions that do not require a strict aesthetic approach, in technical rooms for reliable protection outdoor wiring use a more rigid metal hose connecting junction boxes(also metal). The principle of attaching it to the wall does not differ from the plastic corrugation and is shown in the diagram:
In all cases (pipe, corrugation, metal hose), it is important to fix the cable exit into the connectors of the attached box at an angle of 90 °, so the first fastening is placed at a distance of no more than 10 cm.
Walls of different density
Depending on the brand of wire and the material in which it will be installed, the wire mount on inner wall may have different designs.
In sufficiently strong plaster, when there is no need to fix the corrugation, you can drill holes and hammer in brackets - dowels with a wire previously inserted into them. A sample of such fasteners is visible in the photo:
On wooden surfaces pressed from sawdust slabs, install different kinds brackets and clamps (as on concrete monoliths), in which screws and nails act as a retainer. Installation is carried out manually quickly, and a construction gun replaces an electric screwdriver.
Thin wires for the Internet and phone can be fixed on the drive. This is a special screw, which is partially screwed into the wall, and a thin conductor is screwed onto the protruding part.
For soft bases such as GKL sheets, plastic staples and clips are used, which are simply nailed with small nails. The fastest in this case will be the use of special U - shaped staples and a construction stapler. Such brackets are designed for quick installation of the wire and have plastic stops so as not to transfer the current-carrying core.
Hide the wiring in the apartment with plastic skirting boards, which have internal cavities closed with a decorative cover. It remains to mount the plinth and make exit points to the sockets.
Demanded method of securing cables, combining ease of installation open wiring and not flashy for viewing of a closed type, are plastic cable channels. A bundle of wires in a box closed with a lid is always available for inspection and switching changes. The channel is attached to the walls with screws, the cores inside it - with plastic ties.
The box and junction boxes for them are available in different sizes, you can always choose the right brand for certain scheme networks. By appearance such boxes on the walls of an office or home have already become familiar and do not cause discomfort in the perception of the situation.
All extension cords and power filters (I still don’t understand what their difference is, except for the cherished general shutdown button, which no one uses anyway), has one, very significant, in my opinion, minus: they lie freely. And if ever-never is still an advantage, for example, putting it aside when you vacuum, or pushing system unit, then this is often not the case. And at the most inopportune moment, when your hands are busy with something, and your vision is limited by something oversized, you hook the extension cord with your foot and pull it out of the net. IN best case the download of the file, which has already lasted for 1.5 hours, is interrupted by 98%, or you will have to start transferring music to the phone from the beginning. Well, at worst, if the plug of the electrical appliance has not fallen out, but the wire has broken, it is simply unsafe.
So I, having suffered with all kinds of extension cords, wondered: what prevents it from being fixed, not even on the floor, but higher. It's more convenient and safer that way. But here’s the bad luck: I didn’t find anything like this on sale (although I might not be looking there), but the preliminary outlines of this simple device have begun to take shape:
Small, compact, but at the same time convenient;
On a clamp, so that you can always rearrange;
So as not to be conspicuous, but always at hand.
So I profess the principle of car tuners: “you can’t buy it - build it yourself”, I set to work. By the way, for reference: it took no more than 15 minutes, even taking into account the fact that I was a "pioneer". Your creation will take much less time.
First of all, I bought two external sockets without grounding, single,
and double (I told you that the requirements for the extension cord began to emerge).
And definitely with back wall otherwise it would have to be done.
But the clamp (plastic, for attaching the flexible shaft of the drill), I simply found in my “bins”. Such a “piano in the bushes”, so I didn’t have to buy it. Although, as practice later showed, finding and buying something like this is not at all difficult, and there is an abundance of construction markets and something similar in supermarkets.
In addition, you need a piece of sheet rubber (I deliberately do not indicate the dimensions, since they will all be individual and different),
a power cord with a plug from a discarded old and faulty TV,
a piece of two-wire wire for connection,
and four screws with M4 nuts.
In addition, a screwdriver was needed, which will play the role of a compact and not fast drill,
drill to it
screwdriver,
and wiring pliers, or as they are also called a stripper for shortening wires and stripping insulation.
And then everything is quite simple. In the rear parts of the sockets, we drill holes for fastening to the clamp (at two points),
as well as wires.
We drill the same holes in the clamp itself, in the upper and middle parts.
And in order to securely fasten the incoming power wire, we drill three holes (although two are enough) in a row,
and through them we pass the incoming power wire with a “snake”. So he will never, even if desired, break out of contact by negligence.
Now we clean the ends of the wires, make loops, although this was not necessary, but I love solidity in everything,
and assemble the sockets themselves.
We fasten the protective outer covers.
Now we return the clamping part of the clamp to its place, when installing sockets and wires to them, it simply interfered,
An extension cord with chargers constantly gets in the way on the table or under your feet, collects a lot of dust, and it looks unaesthetic. Dealing with this problem is very simple: take a nice box, make a few holes in it and hide all the wires and cables there.
There are also turnkey solutions, such as Plug Hub from Quirky. This is a box made of hard plastic with a rubberized bottom. There are three holes on the top for cables, and inside there are three fasteners, on which you can wrap extra long cords. Plug Hub can be placed on the floor or mounted on the wall.
Amazon.com 2. Fix the wires under the tabletop
To fix the wires and extension cord under the table, you will need binders and screws (they must be at least a quarter less than the thickness of the table top in length, otherwise they will go through and the table will be damaged). First of all, fix the extension under the table top, preferably in the middle of the table or closer to the wall. Then in right places fasten the binders with screws. Connect everything you need to the extension cord and assemble the wires with clamps. Visually, the table has become much cleaner and neater.
There is a simpler option if you do not need to hide a large number of wires. This will require a construction stapler. To prevent the long wire from the lamp from dangling under your feet, carefully fasten it with paper clips at the table leg. A small extension can also be fixed with paper clips. For thicker wires, it is better to use special clamps (for example, these).
Do you like stapler staples? Regular zip ties will do. Secure the cable to the table leg with cable ties. The wires that run along the floor can be covered with plastic or a plank to match the color of the floor. The extension can be fastened under the tabletop with a wide Velcro: fix it with screws on reverse side countertops, and then attach the extension. To keep the wires from dangling under the table, run them through cable ducts - these can be purchased at any hardware store. You can fix the channels themselves with electrical tape or a regular plaster.
3. Organize cable storage
Get rid of the confusion in the wires will help them proper organization. To get started, collect cords from phones, a player, a game console, and tablets around the house. Then take the boxes (preferably prettier), place cardboard dividers inside them, sign the place for each cable (so as not to get confused later) and lay everything out neatly. To avoid tangling the wires themselves, use ordinary ties.
If you don't feel like messing around with boxes, buy a basket and stock up on toilet paper rolls.
If the wires do not bother you, you can simply attach a label to each to make it easier to distinguish between them. For example, like this:
4. Keep all the necessary wires close at hand
Not all cables we can hide in a box: we need some of them almost constantly. The solution is simple: mount them on the edge of your desktop so that you can reach out and connect the device to the right wire if necessary. Sugru will help us with this - plasticine-rubber and one of the most indispensable things in the household. Don't believe? Then look.
Roll the Sugru into small balls and place on a table support. Then stationery knife remove some plasticine (carefully, try not to deform the balls much). Life hack: to prevent plasticine from sticking to the blade, pre-rinse it with soapy water. Then adjust the shape a little with a sushi stick or a toothpick to get neat hollows (they should be slightly wider than your wires). Everything is ready, you can fix the cables.
There is an option for those who know how to work with wood. A small block with holes will help organize all the wires on the desktop.
The simplest solution is to pass the wires through the binders attached to the tabletop.
hexjam.com 5. Don't hide wires
Seriously, if you get creative, cables can become interesting element decor.
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Click on the picture to enlarge. A great solution to get rid of "charger" cables strewn all over the floor came from a Japanese company who created a rubber-coated SocketDeer socket with deer horns! On these horns you can put, for example, mobile phone and plug its "charger" into the socket. The cable can be wrapped around the horns so that it does not hang down to the floor.
Perfect solution for travelers, the Belkin Mini Surge tee allows you to take one USB "charger" with you on the road instead of several. Besides, this device provides you with extra power outlets and surge protection, whether you're in a hotel room or at the airport. Mini Surge is equipped with three conventional sockets and two USB ports through which you can recharge different devices. Mini Surge can be rotated 360 degrees around its axis, which will allow you to conveniently place it in any working environment and not block other outlets. Woofy
The price of this plastic dog is simply unbelievable! However, if you're looking for some fancy way to store your cables, then Woofy might be of interest to you. The cables are hidden in the "stomach" of this almost half-meter dog, and are pulled out of its hind legs.
On October 9, 2008, a video appeared on DL.TV showing an anonymous viewer from Seattle showing off his incredible invention: the wireless office. You can watch the video. All cables are routed inside the PVC boxes that form the outline of the table and lead to a socket in the wall. There are no wires above or below the table. Serious do-it-yourself project.
The 40cm plastic box performs the same function as the Woofy but only costs $29.50. Of course, it is not as original as a $250 plastic dog, but inside this box you can hide a whole extension cord with all the dangling cables.
Can't plug two power supplies side by side? The situation can be corrected with a rotating wall socket. It will take you 10 minutes to set up this position, but then you can plug two bulky "chargers" into the outlet, which did not go anywhere else, since you can fix them at an angle, and not directly on top of each other. Sometimes extra centimeters can play a big role.
Such sockets are not yet produced, but the idea is worthy of attention. How many times have you unplugged the plug (to save power, free up space, or temporarily plug in another device) and drop it on the floor where the cords get tangled up and everyone stutters about them? After all, it's not safe. The solution is obvious: you just need to hang unused plugs on the holders of the sockets themselves. Wish these outlets were on sale soon!
Some of the products presented in this review are a little strange, but SocketSense is a really practical thing. How convenient, instead of a regular extension, to use a model that can be extended (from 33 to 41 cm) to fit any configuration of forks. For some users, the most important thing will be how this looks network filter- completely normal, with six slots.
If SocketSense looks like a completely normal upgrade to a standard network filter, designed to allow more "chargers" to be connected custom size, then PowerSquid looks strange. But this makes a lot of sense. PowerSquid lights up in the dark blue color so that under the table you can see where to connect the plugs. Thanks to its flat shape, it can be hidden behind furniture. PowerSquid also secures the phone line. And most importantly: all sockets are placed on separate flexible wires, so they do not interfere with each other.
The author of this idea has not yet found a manufacturer who would undertake to bring this project to life. The trick is to run the wires along the baseboard, but instead of attaching them to the wall, you can hide them behind decorative fence: the cables are not visible, and at the same time they are easily accessible.
Charging base for the whole family. Kangaroom makes sure that you always know where your phone, camera and other devices are located: the Kangaroom splitter is hidden in a special box that is mounted on the wall in a visible place. If your phone is in this charging base, then you will never lose your phone or its charger. |
