Do-it-yourself heated outdoor shower: step-by-step construction instructions. How to make a storage boiler with your own hands Do-it-yourself water heater for a shower in the country

Instantaneous water heaters differ from storage water heaters (boilers) in that they heat the flow of water passing through them. Therefore, their power is higher than that of boilers. Making these devices yourself will help you provide hot water in your country house or home. You will learn how to make electric, solar and other models of instantaneous water heaters with your own hands, and you will also be able to make a device that suits your conditions.

Types of instantaneous water heaters

Self-production of heaters

Having weighed all the advantages and disadvantages and determined the type of device, begin preparing the materials and the workplace. Most work can be done conveniently in a barn or yard in dry, windless weather. When planning to do welding or soldering, make sure that there are people nearby who can help you in the event of an emergency. Also keep a first aid kit near your work place so that people who come to your aid don’t have to run around the yard and house looking for bandages or other medical supplies. Tools such as a grinder and a gas burner require responsible handling. Neglecting safety measures can end in tragedy.

How to make an electric flow heater

Materials:

  • tubular electric heater (TEH) with a power of 4–6 kW;
  • a piece of steel pipe into which a heating element is placed with a small margin;
  • two pieces of half-inch steel pipe, with standard threads cut on one end;
  • several pieces of sheet steel 3 mm thick;
  • nut and bolt for grounding;
  • anti-corrosion paint.

You will also need tools:

  • Bulgarian;
  • drill;
  • nozzle for removing dirt and rust;
  • welding inverter;
  • electrodes;
  • metal brush;
  • roulette;
  • hammer;
  • sharp core.

The heating element is the basis of an electric flow heater

Step-by-step instruction

  1. Before starting work everything metal parts it is necessary to clean it from dirt and rust using a special attachment on a drill or grinder.
  2. Take a piece of metal, the size of which is larger than the diameter of the pipe, and mark holes in the center for installing the heating element. Depending on the heating element model, there can be from 1 to 6.
  3. Remove the fasteners from the heating element and select a drill 1 mm larger than the electric heater leg. Use this drill to make the necessary holes. Some models of heating elements are equipped with a threaded or smooth body designed for insertion into some device. In this case, you will have to cut such a hole using a drill or inverter. You can also contact a turner to drill a suitable hole. If necessary, drill a hole for the mounting bolts and tap the threads.
  4. Attach this piece of metal to the end of the pipe so that the holes are approximately in the middle and use a core to outline the shape of the pipe.
  5. Using a grinder, cut the metal according to the markings, then make another similar circle, only without holes.
  6. Insert and secure the heating element into the circle intended for it. Make sure everything is pressed tightly. If something is sticking out somewhere, find and eliminate the cause.
  7. Remove the heating element and weld the circle to the end of the pipe.
  8. Cut the pipe so that there is 1–2 cm from the end of the heating element to the second circle.
  9. Step back 1 cm from each end of the pipe and cut two holes in it on the same line, corresponding to the internal diameter of the threaded sections.
  10. Weld threaded sections to the holes; you will connect the water to them.
  11. Weld a circle with holes for the heating element and install the heater, then weld the second circle on the other side.
  12. In any convenient place, focusing on the subsequent installation of the heater, weld the grounding nut.
  13. Connect the assembled structure to the water supply and tap to make sure that it passes water well and does not leak anywhere. If you find a leak, weld it.
  14. Remove the water heater, degrease and paint with anti-corrosion paint. When the paint is dry, you can install and connect it.

Most of these heaters are secured using various gaskets and nuts

Warning: These types of water heaters must be grounded. Otherwise there is a high probability of defeat electric shock. Therefore, before turning on the heater, make sure that it is securely connected to ground.

How to make a flow-through structure powered by a heating system

The operating principle of this device is to heat a heat exchanger (coil) placed in the hot coolant of the heating system, for example, a heat accumulator. However, inserting such a coil into a new heat accumulator will not lead to anything good. This will void your device's warranty and may also damage the insulation, which will dramatically reduce efficiency and increase heating costs. Therefore, it is necessary to independently make a small-sized heat accumulator, embed a heat exchanger into it and insulate the entire structure. You can connect such a water heater to a break in the heating supply pipe and provide yourself with clean hot water. In an uninsulated water heater, some of the heating energy will be wasted, which will increase costs. winter period. If this does not bother you, then you can not insulate the device, this will make it more compact.

This device heats water thanks to high temperature coolant in the heating system

To work you will need the following tools:

  • Bulgarian;
  • drill;
  • welding inverter;
  • cutting torch;
  • soldering iron with a power of at least 300 watts;
  • roulette;
  • compass;
  • sharp core;
  • metal scissors or pruning shears.
  • riveter

This arrangement of instantaneous water heater is well suited for self-production

  • copper tube with a diameter of 4–8 mm;
  • sheet copper 2–3 mm thick;
  • an iron or wooden round mandrel with a diameter of 10–12 cm (you can use a piece of pipe);
  • sheet iron 3–5 mm thick;
  • anti-corrosion paint;
  • 2 90 degree angles from half-inch pipe;
  • 4 pieces of half-inch pipe 10–15 cm long with standard thread;
  • 2 brass couplings (half inch) with thread;
  • half-inch steel pipe;
  • thick-walled steel pipe, the internal diameter of which is more than 20 cm (you can use part of an empty gas cylinder);
  • medium-temperature solder for copper and brass, as well as the corresponding flux;
  • fluoroplastic sealing material (FUM tape).

To insulate, prepare:

  • mineral wool;
  • steel corner with shelf size 50 mm;
  • sheet iron 0.7–1 mm thick;
  • rivets.

Instructions

  1. Wind the copper tube around the mandrel. If the tube is less than 8 mm in diameter, then two must be wound at the same time. The length of the spiral is 15–20 cm. When winding, slightly pull the tube towards you, this will help avoid its deformation. Do not use a mandrel with a diameter smaller than 5 cm, otherwise the tube will fold or flatten due to too much bending curvature.
  2. From sheet copper, cut two round plates, the diameter of which is equal to the size of the brass couplings. In the center of the plates, drill holes according to the diameter and number of tubes. Clean both surfaces of the plates and one end of each brass coupling using sandpaper and with the help gas burner, medium-temperature solder and flux, solder the plates to the couplings.
  3. When the parts have cooled completely, insert tubes into them to a depth of 1 mm and solder using a gas torch and the same solder and flux.
  4. Connect the coil to the water supply and run water to check for leaks. If they are, then eliminate them.
  5. Mark two holes in the thick pipe (housing) corresponding to the coil couplings.
  6. Drill them so that they are 1 mm larger than the diameter of the half-inch threaded pipe sections.
  7. Clean the pipe inside and out using a drill attachment or grinder.
  8. Strip the half-inch pipes as well.
  9. Lower the coil into the thick pipe, insert threaded tubes into the holes and, using FUM tape, screw them into the couplings.
  10. Using solder, flux and a torch, solder thin pipes to thick pipes. Do not overheat the thin pipe so that the FUM does not melt.
  11. Drill two holes from the opposite edge of the body and weld two threaded pipes to them. If you have thicker pipes in your heating system, then you need to use threaded pieces of the same diameter and drill a hole for them.
  12. Cut two circles from sheet steel 3–5 mm thick, the diameter of which is 11 cm larger than the body. If you decide not to insulate the water heater, then the size of the disks should be equal to the diameter of the body.
  13. Weld these circles to the two ends of the body.
  14. Connect both heating leads to the water supply to check the resulting unit for leaks. If you find a leak, weld it.
  15. Coat the unit with anti-corrosion protection.

Correct winding copper tube on the mandrel will allow you to create a coil - heat exchanger

If you doubt your abilities and ability to solder, then place a thick pipe so that the thin pipes stick vertically upward. Prop the coil so that it is in the middle of the pipe, fill it with water to the top edge of both couplings and begin soldering. This will protect the coil from overheating.

How to insulate a water heater with your own hands

  1. Weld 7–10 corners to the surface of the body so that the second shelf is parallel to the surface of the pipe. Weld not with a continuous seam, but with the help of 3-4 tacks 1 cm long. This will reduce heat loss through the corners that come into contact with the outer metal shell.
  2. Make a strip of thin sheet metal, the width of which is 2 cm greater than the distance between the end circles of the body. The length of the strip should be sufficient to completely wrap the resulting unit.
  3. Make 1 cm wide edges on both sides of this strip.
  4. Using pruning shears or metal scissors, give these edges a sawtooth appearance by marking them with a zigzag with a tooth in the shape of an equilateral triangle.
  5. From the edge of the strip, cut off the teeth opposite the corner.
  6. Apply the strip to the corner, ensuring the correct orientation of the strip so that you can wrap it around the unit, because after installing the rivets you will not be able to correct anything.
  7. Drill the strip and corner (5-7 holes) and fasten the parts using a rivet gun.
  8. Cut a suitable piece mineral wool and insert it between the corner to which the thin metal was attached and the adjacent corner.
  9. Cover the insulation with metal and secure it with rivets.
  10. Perform the same operation on the remaining corners.
  11. Weld the legs from the angle either to one of the round plates, or between the plates if you are installing it horizontally.

Video: how to use a riveter

How to make a solar model

Here is a list of tools you will need for the job:

  • drill or screwdriver;
  • stapler;
  • jigsaw;
  • glass cutter;
  • pencil;
  • roulette.

You will also need the following materials:

  • plywood 20 mm thick;
  • planed wooden block with a section of 5x5 cm;
  • planed board 10 cm wide and 5 cm thick;
  • black rubber garden hose;
  • foamed foil insulation;
  • self-tapping screws of different sizes;
  • glass 3–5 mm thick; plywood, the thickness of which is equal to the thickness of glass;
  • wooden slats 5 cm wide and 1 cm thick;
  • knitting wire.

This water heater is made from a garden hose.

Step by step assembly guide

  1. Determine what size you will make the water heater and where to mount it. It works best on the south side of the roof, in which case it is warmed by the morning, afternoon and evening rays of the sun.
  2. Cut a rectangular base of suitable size from plywood.
  3. Screw planed bars to it around the perimeter to make it look like a fire shield.
  4. Connect the bars to each other, this will increase the rigidity of the structure.
  5. Line the inside of the resulting box with foam foil insulation using a stapler. Lay the insulation with the foil facing out.
  6. Cut pieces 15 cm long from the planed board and cut one edge into a semicircle so that the diameter of the circle is equal to the width of the board. These will be the guides for the hose.
  7. Screw the guides to the plywood from the insulation side so that the hose laid on them forms a snake. At the point where the hose turns, the distance between the turns should not be greater than the diameter of the hose. Using a jigsaw, cut two grooves in the bottom block for the hose inlet and outlet.
  8. Cut strips 4 cm wide from thin plywood.
  9. Using a stapler, attach strips of plywood to the face of the blocks so that they form a step that will prevent the glass from moving.
  10. Lift the water heater onto the roof and attach it to the south side. If possible, install it horizontally, because the smaller the angle relative to the ground, the greater the efficiency.
  11. Lay the hose along the guides and secure with loops of binding wire. Attach the hinges to the plywood so that they are not higher than the guides, otherwise the glass will burst.
  12. Instead of a rubber hose, use a 5-10 mm thick copper or steel tube or a coil removed from an old refrigerator. In this case, guides will not be needed, but you will have to bend the pipes so that the turning radius is at least 5 diameters. After giving the tube the required shape, cover it with a sheet of thin tin, painted black, and secure it in the body of the water heater.
  13. Cut the glass to size, install it on the water heater and secure it using slats, which must be laid exactly on the beam.
  14. Connect the pipes to the water heater and supply water.

This instantaneous water heater was made from the radiator of an old refrigerator.

Features of using homemade products

Industrial instantaneous water heaters undergo serious testing, which prevents defective units from appearing on the market that pose a danger to users. When making such a device yourself, you must clearly understand that no one but you will carry out diagnostics and detect malfunctions. If you do something wrong and don’t notice it in time, then the full brunt of the consequences will fall on the one who is closest to the damaged unit. Therefore, before the first start-up and every 2-3 months, be sure to check the condition of the wires, contacts and welds.

Do not forget to first open the water, then turn on the heating element. Otherwise, the water in the unit will boil and the tubular electric heater will burn out. In those devices that are sold in stores, a complex sensor is installed that responds to the movement of water and supplies electricity to the heater coil.

Install homemade devices in places where human activity is minimal. This will protect you and your loved ones if for some reason the unit leaks. The coolant in the heating system is under pressure up to 1 atmosphere, so the length of the jet through a leak can reach 1 meter. Water with a temperature of 70–80 degrees can cause severe scalding (second degree burns), so take these recommendations seriously.

You can make an instantaneous water heater yourself, however, in terms of costs, such a device will be much more expensive than a purchased unit and will be less efficient and safe. That's why self-production it is justified only if the models offered by stores do not suit you.

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The presence of hot water in the house significantly increases the comfort of relaxation outside the city. That is why more and more summer residents are striving to organize at least some kind of hot water supply on their six hundred square meters. Not everyone can afford a purchased water heater. Even if you choose a suitable model at an affordable price, there is no guarantee that the device will work properly in dacha conditions, without good pressure in the pipes and stable power supply voltage.


Another possible variant- this is to try to make a water heater for your dacha yourself. Homemade devices can operate from the most different sources energy. We will talk about the types of water heaters that you can assemble yourself in today’s article.


Electric

To begin with, it should be noted that you can assemble various types of electrical appliances yourself only if you are well versed in such equipment and have the necessary knowledge of electrical safety. Otherwise, the device you make may cause harm to the life and health of your household.

If you think that experience and knowledge allow you to make a water heater at home, we offer you a version of the device that you can easily assemble yourself.

We will create our device based on a device called “moidodyr”. It is a washbasin with a water tank attached to it, which is equipped with a water heater. Such a device is quite inexpensive, around two to three thousand rubles. Our task is to improve the “Moidodyr” by providing it with a larger tank (120 liters) and a pump that allows the tank to be automatically filled.


  • First of all, you need to find a suitable place to place the tank. It should not interfere with movement in the room. In addition, the tank should be positioned so that it is inaccessible to small children.
  • Then we cut a hole in the tank and insert a valve with a float into it - the kind that is used in toilet flush tanks. For the system to work, the rod holding the float needs to be made a little shorter.
  • Next, we connect the tank to the washbasin or sink faucet. The most convenient way to do this is with a special hose from a washing machine.
  • We install the heating element in the hole pre-cut for it. We seal the connection using rubber gaskets. It is best to choose for these purposes a heater rated at 1.2 kW, equipped with a thermostat.
  • We install a residual current device on the electrical wiring with a pair of indicators, one of which will indicate that our device is turned on, and the other will indicate that the process is underway heating
  • In order for the system to work more efficiently, it is recommended to insulate the tank by wrapping it heat-insulating material. Hide the water heater or make it more aesthetic appearance It’s possible if you build a neat box for it.

Solar heated

More complex, but also safer to use, will be a water heater powered by solar energy. You can also make it yourself, but this will take much more time and a variety of materials than in the previous case. If this does not stop you, read the instructions for assembling a solar water heater below.


Necessary tools, materials and operating principle

  • glass wool;
  • wooden beam;
  • pipes with a diameter of 20 mm;
  • sheets of glass;
  • profile square pipe diameter 20 mm;
  • metal profiles;
  • metal corners;
  • insulation for glass;
  • thin metal sheets;
  • water tank of the required volume;
  • fitting;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • dowels;
  • heat-resistant black matte paint;
  • waterproof plywood;
  • water pipes;
  • thermal insulation for pipes;
  • pipe with a high degree of thermal conductivity (for the coil);
  • drill;
  • welding machine.

How to make a heat exchanger?

A heat exchanger is a container in which water circulates and is heated, equipped with two outlets. Cold water flows into the container through one outlet, and hot water flows out through the other.

In order to assemble a heat exchanger, you first need to make a coil. The coil is a metal tube bent in a spiral. It is needed in order to ensure the most efficient heating of water.


The tube from which you will make the coil must conduct heat well. Copper products are best suited for this purpose.

How to make an absorber for a collector?

The heat exchanger we assembled must be heated by solar heat. But in order for large volumes of water in the tank to warm up under the sun quickly and evenly, the area of ​​the heat exchanger alone is not enough. It is necessary to build another, larger device that will accumulate heat and transfer it to the water heater. Such a device is called an “absorber”.


The absorber can be made from thin metal sheets, which are known to heat up very well and retain heat for a long time. Tubes are laid between the plates, and glass sheets are placed on top. At the bottom of the structure there is a thick layer of insulation, which is usually glass wool.

How to make a box for a water heater?

In order for our design to hold up well, plus it is protected from influences external factors, you should enclose it in a box. The box will serve as a kind of support frame and provide additional thermal insulation.


We will assemble the box from wooden beam. Its height must be at least 70 mm. We cover the bottom with sheets of moisture-resistant plywood, and insulate the edges using the same mineral wool.

How to assemble a solar water heater?

We assemble a device that uses solar heat to heat water in the following order:

  • lay out the first layer - this will be a plywood backing;
  • install a heat exchanger on the substrate;
  • We place an absorber on top of the heat exchanger;
  • paint the absorber black;
  • we assemble a box from timber;
  • Place glass sheets on top of the absorber.


You can learn more about the solar collector and its structure in the following video.

Water heating system made from plastic bottles

Another interesting option A water heater for a summer residence, which you can make with your own hands, is a device for heating liquid, assembled from plastic one and a half liter bottles.

The set of necessary materials will be very affordable: you can easily find everything you need for the job at your nearest hardware store. So, you will need:

  • sealant suitable for plastic products;
  • connecting pipes made of polyvinyl chloride;
  • a pair of valves - valve or ball.


  • The first thing to do is prepare plastic bottles. We wash them thoroughly and remove the labels. Then we make a hole in the bottom of each bottle, the diameter of which corresponds to the diameter of its neck. Note that all bottles should preferably be the same in shape and size - this will make it more convenient to work, and the design will look more aesthetically pleasing.
  • The next stage is the assembly of the main element of our future water heater. We take two plastic bottles and insert the neck of one into the bottom of the other. We collect a chain of about 10 bottles, then move on to the next one. The number of chains is unlimited. For maximum reliability, lubricate all connections with a sealing compound.
  • Next, you need to find a suitable place to install the water heater. Best suited for these purposes South side roofs. If the roof is slate, we place chains of bottles in the depressions between the “waves”.
  • We pass a flexible plastic tube between the bottles in the chain; we connect the chains together using connecting pipes.
  • We install one outlet for water at both ends of the solar “battery”. We connect the system to the tank from which cold water will flow.


The performance of such a DIY water heater is sufficient to heat up to 60 liters of liquid per hour. But heat losses will be very large, so in practice this figure will be much less. If the volume of the tank is about 100 liters, then during a sunny day the water from it will warm up to 40-45 degrees two or three times.

You can clearly see how a water heater made from plastic bottles works and how it works in the following video.

Boiler installation and installation with connection.

You will need the following instructions for the boiler:

1. Connection diagram of the boiler to the hot water pipes.

2. Diagram of connecting the boiler room to electricity.

How to make a homemade boiler - water heater for heating water

Where the electric heater is screwed in (instead of the factory brass screw), you need to weld a steel nut with a diameter of 32 mm (buy at plumbing market or in a store). Before welding it, screw the fitting thread into the nut so that it does not lead, otherwise during the assembly of the water heater the electric heating element will not fall into place (it will not screw in).

Homemade boiler for heating water with electricity, indirect and storage water heater, diagram, instructions, price, connection - farmer's directory website


Let's make our own electric water heater and boiler for heating water

How to make an indirect heating boiler with your own hands?

Not a single industrial, residential or office space can operate without hot water supply. For such purposes, special water heaters are most often used. You can buy them in the store (how to choose a boiler), or you can save a little and do it yourself . Let's consider the second option using the example of a boiler indirect heating.

Operating principle of an indirect heating boiler .

Briefly speaking about the working scheme, the device in question is as follows: the coolant moves in a tank of the required volume and heats up to the required temperature, after which it transfers heat to the cold water with which the housing is filled. The most the best option source of body in in this case is a parallel type connection to central system heating.

Visually, an indirect heating boiler is represented by a container made of corrosion-resistant material and attached pipelines through which the coolant moves. To drain and fill water, the first has two holes located in the lower and upper parts. For convenience, these openings are also equipped with taps.

The process of making an indirect heating boiler with your own hands.

Handmade production of an indirect heating boiler occurs in several stages:

1. Making a tank.

For the tank, you will need a container made of materials that are most resistant to moisture. These materials include: aluminum alloy, plastic and stainless steel. Ordinary steel can also be used, but only with special treatment.

Most often, gas cylinders are used as a tank.

By the way, if there was gas in the cylinder before, then when using it as a boiler tank, for the first couple of weeks after the latter is put into operation, a specific smell may be present in the water.

2. Installation of the coil.

Small-diameter pipes made of metal-plastic or metal are usually used as a coil for a boiler. The main thing here is to ensure maximum proximity of the coolant and water.

Plastic or steel pipes can serve as a good starting point for obtaining a coil of the required diameter. Their fastening is initially done inside the container. Next, plumbing fittings are soldered to the ends of the pipeline. At this time, it is important not to forget to immediately equip the system with a tap or distribution fittings, which are located in the upper third part of the tank - to perform the function of selecting heated water.

3. Thermal insulation.

It is needed to increase the efficiency of the unit and minimize heat losses. This is usually done in one of the following ways:

  • For the tank, two containers are taken at once different diameters, and the space formed between them is insulated, this allows you to significantly increase the productivity of the system and at the same time reduce energy consumption;
  • the entire perimeter of the tank is foamed with polyurethane foam or covered with heat-insulating material (in this case, wire ties or various types of glue can be used as fastening).

Important!

Do-it-yourself indirect heating boilers have one drawback - the formation of deposits on the coil. Therefore, for the unit to function properly, it is necessary to clean the spiral at least 2 times a year.

How to make a water heater with your own hands

How to make an electric water heater with your own hands

The problem of hot water in a country house is always relevant, and the problem of organizing hot water supply can be solved in different ways. One way is to connect the boiler to gas or electricity.

But more optimal way– make an electric water heater with your own hands. A homemade water heater will cost much less, and its manufacture will require very little effort. How to make a water heater with your own hands is described below.

Given homemade device saves money and eliminates the worry of how to provide a private house or a summer house with cheap hot water, especially in winter.

There is a washbasin on sale with a built-in heating element and a 10-liter plastic tank at a quite “affordable” price, only you need to pour water into it through the lid. This means that you will again have to use various ladles and jars, but this is not very convenient.

Currently, it is not difficult to install a 120 liter tank and a pump in the kitchen (with autonomous water supply all these structures are always available).

The pump allows you to fill a tank of similar volume in 10 minutes without unnecessary hassle. This amount of water can be enough for a family of 4-5 people for 2 days without following a strict economy regime. In this case, water from the tank should be supplied to the sink “by gravity”, i.e. the tank can be installed in a room adjacent to the kitchen on a high rack. For “gravity” such pressure should be quite enough.

DIY electric water heater

For a water heater with your own hands, you need to complete the automatic tank filling system. For these purposes, it is necessary to cut a corresponding hole - a toilet valve with a float - and slightly alter the design. Inside the tank there are stiffening ribs that the float will touch, so you need to shorten the rod on which it is supported, slightly bending it “in place” for the system to work.

Before you make your own water heater, consider where the tank will be installed. In order not to clutter the kitchen, place it in a utility room connected to it, where the storage tank by connecting it to the sink mixer using a hose from washing machine.

The heating element recommended for the system is “Ariston” 1.2 kW with a built-in thermostat. Under it, you should make a corresponding mounting hole in the tank and cut out gaskets from rubber. Recommended electrical diagram involves installing a circuit breaker and two indicators in the kitchen, placed in a neat box.

One indicator should show that the homemade electric water heater is on, and the second should light up (only when the thermostat turns on the heating). The corresponding connector is located on the heating element body. At night, you can turn off the toggle switch of the circuit breaker, thereby turning off the entire system.

It is recommended to wrap the water tank with insulation and make a plywood box on top. Then the structure will retain heat and look more neat, and the top of the box, in addition, can then be used as another shelf.

Insulating the tank will keep the water warm until the morning, so in the morning the heating element can be turned on for a short time.

You can also use a plastic tank, but it is unreliable. It is better to use a tank made of of stainless steel, for example from an old washing machine. This container is quite suitable and durable.

Such a system usually works for quite a long time. The problem can occur in winter due to freezing of water in the system. Therefore, the water must be drained in the winter if you do not plan to use it regularly.

DIY indirect heating boiler #8212 simple and economical

The problem of hot water becomes relevant where there is no centralized hot water supply: in country houses, private city and country houses. Installation today ready-made device to heat water up to required temperatures requires serious investment. An alternative way to supply hot water is an indirect heating boiler. which you can make yourself. Its advantage is that hot water supply to residential premises is carried out economically and at minimal financial costs.

Features and diagram of making an indirect heating boiler with your own hands

In appearance, an indirect heating boiler is a large storage tank, independent of energy sources (gas, electricity, etc.). Inside the tank, made of corrosion-resistant material, there is a spiral-shaped tube through which the coolant circulates. Cold water is supplied to the tank through an inlet tube, usually located at the bottom. The water in the boiler is heated evenly due to the moving coolant heating system. The hot water outlet pipe is installed at the top. For ease of use, the pipes are equipped with ball valves. The outside of the tank is covered with a layer of thermal insulation.

A drawing for the manufacture of an indirect heating boiler with a volume of 100 liters is shown below:

Schematic diagram of the boiler operation:

Heating water from the boiler enters the water heater tank, where, passing through a spiral tube, it is converted into cold water at the outlet. Return chilled water flows back into the boiler.

Advantages and disadvantages of an indirect heating boiler

The advantages of using a DIY boiler:

  • connection to the central heating system
  • installation near a heating boiler
  • low circuit installation costs
  • significant reduction in energy consumption
  • providing water at a constant temperature.

The disadvantages include the following:

  • required for boiler installation big square or a separate room
  • heating a large volume of water requires a long time, while heating of the premises will be carried out with less intensity
  • rapid formation of deposits on the serpentine tube, requiring chemical or mechanical cleaning twice a year.

This option for obtaining hot water is suitable during the period heating season. At other times, the role of coolant can be played by an electric heating element built into the boiler tank.

Then the water will be heated using electricity. In this case, you can turn on the boiler at night, when night, low tariffs are in effect, or as needed.

Making a boiler yourself

Due to the rather simple principle of operation, such a device can be made independently. Now let's look at how to make an indirect heating boiler with your own hands.

All work on the manufacture of a water heater consists of assembling the component parts of the structure:

A tank is used as a boiler capacity. Its volume depends on the needs of the home owners for hot water and is calculated from the amount of 50–70 liters per person daily. Approximately, a 200-liter boiler is suitable for a family of 4 people.

For the heating device, the tank must be made of stainless steel, aluminum alloys or other corrosion-resistant material. As an alternative - gas cylinder, but its walls must first be cleaned and primed. Without this action, the hot water will smell like gas.

5 holes are made in the tank: 2 on the side for mounting the coil, one at the bottom for the inlet pipe, one at the top for water intake and one at the bottom for the drain valve. To use the boiler outside the heating season, it is necessary to install a heating element. The bottom hole is also drilled for it. Shut-off elements or ball valves are attached to the holes made.

Copper or brass tube, the diameter and length of which depend on the volume of the tank. On average, for every 10 liters, 1.5 kW of thermal power of the serpentine tube is calculated. You can use a tube made of metal-plastic or other metal with good heat dissipation.

The tube is wound in a spiral onto a cylindrical mandrel. To do this, you can take a log or a large diameter pipe.

When winding the coil, it is important to monitor the turns:

  • in order to ensure the best contact of the heating surface of the tube with the heated water, the turns should not touch each other
  • You should not wind it with excessive force, otherwise it will not be easy to remove the coil from the mandrel.
  • The number of turns on the coil is calculated from the volume and height of the tank.

Thermal insulation

The outside of the tank must be covered with a layer of insulation. It is necessary to increase efficiency and reduce heat losses. Suitable for insulating containers polyurethane foam, mineral wool or any other thermal insulation material that is attached to the base with wire, glue or strip ties. For neat appearance It is better to cover the tank body thinly sheet metal or foil insulation.

You can also insulate the tank using another container of larger diameter. To do this, a do-it-yourself boiler is inserted into a large tank, and the wall is filled with insulating material or foam plastic, using the principle of a thermos.

Assembly of a self-made boiler is carried out after preparing all the components:

  • the coil is mounted in the center or along the walls inside the tank, pipes are soldered to its inlet and outlet pipes
  • for a vertically standing boiler, supports are welded to the bottom; for a mounted device, “ear” loops
  • heating element is installed
  • The boiler is tightly closed with a lid
  • connecting the coil according to the diagram for making an indirect heating boiler with your own hands to the heating system circuit
  • connecting the inlet/outlet pipe for water
  • pipe distribution to the kitchen or bathroom at the water collection point.

How to make an indirect heating water heater with your own hands?

Many private houses do not have hot water supply, and residents experience big problems. Domestic needs are always solved through the use of hot water, and its extraction becomes quite troublesome. However, there are several options for getting out of this situation: geyser, double-circuit boiler, electric water heater, #8212 the purchase and installation of which requires considerable financial investments. But there is alternative way manufacturing and installation of a hot water supply system - a homemade indirect heating boiler. Its advantage is the economical hot water supply to residential premises with minimal investment.

You can make a water heater yourself

Where to begin

A boiler is a system that heats water to provide a room with heat and hot water. Accordingly, an indirect heating boiler is storage device water heater that does not require additional power sources to reproduce hot water supply.

Any water heater design consists of a container of sufficient volume and a heating element located inside it, which is responsible for supplying heat.

In the process of increasing the temperature of the heating element, the water filling the container is heated to the required level. It is considered more preferable to connect the boiler in parallel to the house heating system.

The basis of the water heater is the water tank When choosing a container for creating a homemade water heater, you should take into account the tendency of the material used to be damaged by corrosion. As you can use aluminum alloy, plastic or stainless steel, or just a pre-treated steel container external processing necessary means protection from the destructive effects of moisture.

This container is equipped with two holes: one at the top of the body for hot water discharge, the other at the bottom for flowing cold water. Ball valves are built into each of these holes to ensure easy operation.

DIY coil

An important component of the boiler is the presence of a coil for the movement of the primary coolant.

The material used can be a metal or metal-plastic pipe of small diameter. Determining the diameter of the coil depends on the preferences of the manufacturer; the main condition is that the contact with water is maximum.

To make it easier to create a coil spiral from a tube, you can use any pipe or cylindrical log of suitable diameter. One end of the tube must be fixed on the rod and smooth rotations must be made, controlling the density and freedom of the turns, so that the resulting spiral can then be removed from the rod.

It is better to make the coil from a copper tube

Since hot water rises as the temperature rises, the tap that supplies it is mounted in the upper part of the tank. It is worth noting the fact that the coil has the property of forming scale by depositing metal salts contained in the water . That's why this system

Requires periodic cleaning at least twice a year.

Implementation of thermal insulation Thermal insulation in the boiler design is necessary to increase the degree of heat retention. For this purpose, any thermal insulation material used in construction can be used: isolon, polyurethane foam, polyurethane foam, etc. It is attached with glue or wire ties, covering the entire perimeter of the container. This skin allows not only long time

retain the heat of hot water in the boiler, but will also reduce its heating time, which will have a positive effect on coolant consumption, increasing its efficiency.

Without high-quality thermal insulation, the water will quickly cool down

Sometimes the double container method is used, that is, placing a container with a smaller diameter in a container with a larger diameter. The space created between them also serves as thermal insulation.

In order to make an indirect heating boiler with your own hands, you need a certain range of knowledge and available materials for its manufacture.

To work you will need:

  • gas cylinder
  • nitro primer
  • nut diameter 32 mm
  • plastic tubes
  • coil
  • welding machine.

First, we cut the gas cylinder intended for use into two parts. It is advisable to use a new cylinder, since a used one will give the water a peculiar smell for several months.

If it is difficult to get a new cylinder, then we use a nitro primer and treat the entire inner surface of the gas cylinder with it, followed by a thorough rinsing.

The tank can be made from a gas cylinder Secondly, a nut with a screwed-in thread is welded into place for installing the coil. The hot water tube is installed up to the very top of the device. Cold tube tap water

should have the following pattern: one end is equipped with a thread, and the other with holes and a plug on the sides. This system is designed to prevent hot and cold water from mixing.

Thirdly, by welding we form a hole for installing the heat exchanger. Depending on the intended type of installation of this system, corners or ears can be welded as a means of attaching the boiler to the wall. The next step is to install a heating element with an electrical signaling sensor. Fourthly, for greater reliability, it is advisable to wrap the boiler with heat-insulating material. Connect all hoses and tubes to common system at home, special attention should be paid to the tube connected to cold water , must be present check valve

. This measure will protect against water draining from the boiler and protect the heating element from the possible risk of burning.

Alternative source of hot water indoors

A fairly simple and effective way to create your own indirect water heating boiler from the following materials: A body is constructed from boards, inside of which an aluminum sheet is lined. Copper pipe

furrows are formed and a copper collector is installed. There is an entrance on one side, and an exit on the other. This heating system allows you to heat water in the required volume.

Copper manifold with pipes in the housing

The undoubted advantage of making a homemade water heater is the minimum financial and physical costs.

In addition, a huge variety of options for possible water heating structures can be used, depending on the compliance with the conditions of the room where they are installed. Bulk water heater #8212 perfect solution

for a cottage or country house.


How to make a water heater with your own hands

How to make an electric water heater with your own hands The problem of hot water in a country house is always relevant, and the problem of organizing hot water supply can be solved in different ways. One of the ways is to connect...

The presence of hot water at the dacha significantly increases the convenience and comfort of holidays outside the city. It is for this reason that more and more summer residents are trying to organize at least some kind of hot water supply on their several hundred square meters. Not everyone can afford to buy a boiler in a store. Even when choosing a suitable water heater at an affordable price, there is no guarantee that this device will function normally in country conditions, without stable voltage from the electrical network and good pressure in the pipes.

But there is a way out of the situation - to make a boiler for your dacha with your own hands. Homemade water heaters can operate from various energy sources.

How to make an electric boiler yourself? First of all, it must be said that you can assemble various types of electrical appliances yourself only if you have all the knowledge on electrical safety and are well versed in this technology. Otherwise a homemade device can cause harm to health

and the lives of your household.

If you are sure that knowledge and experience allow you to make a water heater yourself, then we offer a boiler option that can be easily assembled at home. We will create a water heater based on a device called “moidodyr”. This is a washbasin with a water tank connected to it, which is equipped with a heater. This device is completely inexpensive, approximately 2000-3000 rubles. Our the main objective - this is to improve the “moydodyr” by equipping it with a capacity bigger size

(120 l), as well as a pump that will allow you to fill the tank automatically.

First you need to choose a suitable place to install the tank. It should not get in the way when moving around the dacha. In addition, you need to position the tank in such a way that it is inaccessible to small children. In the tank and install a float with a valve in it - the same as is used in toilet tanks for flushing. For the whole system to work, the rod that holds the float needs to be made a little shorter. Then we connect the tank to the sink or washbasin faucet. This is best done using a special hose from a washing machine.

We place a heating element in the hole previously made for it. The connection must be sealed using rubber gasket. For these purposes, it is advisable to choose a heater that is equipped with a thermostat and designed for a power of 1.3 kW.

We install a residual current device with several indicators on the electrical wiring, one of which signals that the device is turned on, and the second indicates that the heating process is in progress.

How to make a solar water heater with your own hands?

More complex design, but also safer to use, is solar water heater for a summer residence, which can also be assembled independently, but it will take much longer and various materials than in the case described above. If this does not scare you, then the instructions for assembling a solar water heater are as follows.

Required materials and tools:

We make a heat exchanger

This is the capacity where water is heated and circulated, equipped with two outputs. Through the first outlet, cold water is poured into the tank, and through the second, hot water comes out.

To make a heat exchanger, you need to make a coil: a metal pipe curved in a spiral. It is required to ensure maximum water heating. The pipe from which the coil is made must conducts heat well. Copper products are excellent for this purpose.

Assembly of the absorber for the collector

The manufactured heat exchanger must heat up from sunlight. But in order for significant volumes of water in a container to heat up under the sun evenly and quickly, the area of ​​the heat exchanger alone is not enough. It is necessary to make another device, larger in area, that accumulates heat and transfers it to the water heater. This device is called an "absorber".

It can be made from thin sheets metals that retain heat for a long time and also heat up quite quickly. Tubes are laid between the sheets, and on top - glass sheets. At the bottom of the structure there is a thick layer of insulation; as a rule, glass wool is used for this role.

How to make a coil?

The coil is an important part of the solar heater design. You can use a metal-plastic or metal pipe with a small cross-section as a basis. Brass or copper is most often used, since these materials are different good level heat transfer. The diameter of the coil can be selected at your personal discretion. The main condition is that it has maximum contact with water.

Coil tube It is wound in a spiral onto a cylindrical mandrel. A log or pipe is used for this. larger section. When winding the coil, you need to monitor the turns, which should not touch each other. There is no need to wind it tightly, since it will be very difficult to remove the coil from the mandrel. The number of turns on the coil depends proportionally on the height and volume of the tank. Most often, 1.4-1.6 kW of coil thermal power is used per 10 liters.

Tank insulation

To minimize heat loss, the tank must be wrap in a layer of thermal insulation. For this use:

  • isolon;
  • construction foam;
  • mineral wool;
  • foam;
  • polyurethane foam.

Some people use foil-based underlay for laminate flooring. In this case, the boiler is wrapped like a thermos. The insulation is fixed using strip ties, glue or wire. We recommend insulating the entire body. This will ensure not only long-term preservation of hot water, but will also reduce the duration of heating of the tank, this will reduce coolant consumption.

Without carefully organized thermal insulation, the water in the tank quickly cools down. Most often they resort to the construction of a double tank: a small container is placed inside a large one. The resulting space between them also serves as thermal insulation.

Making a box for a boiler

In order for your heater to hold up well and at the same time be protected from negative external factors, you need to enclose it in a box, which will additionally provide thermal insulation and act as a kind of support frame.

We will build a box from timber, height not less than 80 mm. We line the bottom with a sheet of waterproof plywood, and use the same mineral wool to insulate the edges.

Assembling a device that uses solar energy to heat water, do it in this order:

  • we lay the first layer - this is a plywood backing;
  • We put a heat exchanger on it;
  • We install an absorber on top of the heat exchanger;
  • we paint the absorber black;
  • we build a box from timber;
  • We place sheets of glass on top of the absorber.

Water heater made from plastic bottles

Another original version boiler for a summer residence, which you can make yourself - this is a water heater that is assembled from plastic 1.5 liter bottles. The set of required materials is quite affordable: you can easily find everything you need for the job at your nearest hardware store. You will need:

  • several valves - ball or valve;
  • PVC connecting pipes;
  • sealant for plastic.

First you need to find and prepare plastic bottles. We wash them thoroughly remove all labels. Then we make a hole in the bottom of each bottle; its diameter should correspond to the size of the neck. It should be noted that it is best to choose all bottles the same in size and shape - this way the design will look more attractive, and it is also more convenient during operation.

The next stage is the construction of the main element of the future boiler. Why take two bottles and screw the neck of one into the bottom of the other. Thus, we make a chain of approximately 10 bottles, then we make the next chain. The number of chains is your choice. For greater reliability, we lubricate all connections with sealant.

Then you need to choose the right one location for water heater. The southern part of the roof is best suited for these purposes. If the roof is made of slate, then we place chains of eggplants between the “waves” in the depressions.

We pass an elastic plastic tube between the bottles in the chain, and connect the chains together using connecting pipes. We make one outlet for water at both ends of the solar heater. We connect the system to the tank from which cold water is supplied.

The performance of this DIY solar water heater is enough to heat up to 50 liters of water in one hour. However, heat loss will be quite large, so in practice this figure will be much lower. When the tank volume is approximately 100 liters, the water from it will heat up during daylight hours up to 45-50 degrees 2-3 times.

Summarizing

The trend of constantly rising prices for energy resources forces many people to look for alternative and cheap sources for their needs. On the ground free source heat is solar illumination.

Now many are trying to do anything possible way use at least part of this natural benefit for yourself, and receive considerable savings on traditional hot water supplies. Taking into account existing conditions, many are trying to equip their dachas with water heaters made by themselves and organize comfortable conditions for yourself and your family with minimal material costs for heating water.

The pour-over washbasin was and remains a familiar attribute of almost any rural or country house. The device is useful: there is no hassle with installing water supply and sewerage systems.

When choosing a bulk water heater (boiler), it is always necessary to determine the type of fuel for the equipment. For a cottage or home in rural areas 4 options possible

Gas bulk boiler for heating water

The equipment is still rare and unfamiliar. It can be useful in rural areas: gasification today often outstrips the development of water supply networks. It is also suitable for a summer residence: models have been separately developed for operating on liquefied fuel from cylinders. If there is gas on the site, without a doubt, take such a unit: heating water with gas is much cheaper than with electricity.

Helpful information:

Electric tankless water heater

They differ in water volume and power of heating elements: from a simple 1 kW washbasin to a huge tank for the entire family with a power of 3 kW, operating from home network at 220 V.

Solid fuel water heater

The design is based on traditional “titan” installations. Coal or wood are used as fuel. Modern models are expensive, high quality and efficient. Sellers offer domestic options for 7500-8000 rubles. and higher. Ideal for remote areas, where it is unprofitable to deliver any fuel in small volumes, and there is no other alternative than a truck with coal.

Indirect heating water heater

An extensive group of boilers that uses the heat of heating/heating devices: a water pipe embedded in the design of the device is heated from the heat source by convection. This could be an imported fireplace with a factory water circuit, or a simple gas stove with an overhead pipeline, and a homemade “potbelly stove” with a pipe welded into it in which the water will be heated.

For a dacha would be suitable any option. The question, as noted above, is only in your ability to offer the device the appropriate fuel. Let's look in more detail at electric models, as the most common.

Advantages of electric models

Especially self-leveling plumbing fixtures have taken root in places where there is no possibility of communication in principle. Today, these products have not been forgotten by manufacturers and have even been modernized: a heating element is connected to the container (either independently, or even take the factory version) - and you get comfortable conditions for basic hygiene procedures.

Where there is access to electricity (and this is no exception for a dacha), the whole difficulty of connecting a tank water heater lies only in supplying power to it - installing an outlet.

Thanks to the use of modern heating elements, a tank water heater is a very productive equipment. The main consumer characteristics are as follows:

  1. Easy installation (installing a socket and providing grounding is 1-2 hours of work for the laziest electrician);
  2. High speed of water heating with low electricity consumption;
  3. Absolutely safe products for people and the environment;
  4. Compact size, low cost, convenient for a summer residence;
  5. With minimal residual school knowledge, you can make a water heater yourself.

The market offers products from many manufacturers of bulk water heaters: you can choose either a classic 2-5 liter washbasin or a solid 80 liter tank. and more - these can be used for showers, and even for hot water supply to the kitchen for domestic purposes.

Unlike flow models Connected to the water supply, bulk water heaters consume much less energy: you don’t keep them on all day, the water heats up in 5-30 minutes (depending on the volume).

This is in simpler models. But there are also more expensive units: they contain all the functions of conventional instantaneous boilers. The question is how necessary are they? At permanent residence at the dacha, we agree, we need to take a more modern option, with a thermostat and good thermal insulation.

During rare visits to a hacienda, there is no point in spending money on a modern tank that will heat up some water when you call or send you a text message that it’s time to top up the liquid - a simple galvanized tank with a built-in boiler will be enough for your dacha.

Easy to use

A tankless water heater is easier to operate: just unplug it from the power supply and drain the water from the tank if you don’t plan to use it - that’s the whole set of routine maintenance. This is why many dacha owners choose a bulk water heater: it is simple, convenient and fully takes into account the realities of life outside the city.

A good advantage is that a bulk tank with heated water is the most autonomous water heater of all autonomous water heaters: only current is needed to operate, and electricity is available almost everywhere today.

For a summer cottage, with rare use, any electric water heater made of stainless steel is suitable. The cost of equipment is from 3000-4000 rubles. depending on power, built-in functions and volume.

Prices and models

Bulk water heater “Success” (Elvin LLC). The price of “Success” in online stores starts from 1,400 rubles. for a 5 liter tank. Models with containers of 10 and 15 liters will cost a little more: 1800 and 2200 rubles. respectively. The set also includes shower containers. The water heater is equipped with a protective system against overheating, the maximum water temperature is up to 70 °C. There is a light alarm for the end of heating. The heating container is thermally insulated.

Electric tank water heater EVBK-17 (ZAO Delsot). Model with a 17 liter plastic tank. Very ergonomic, it is possible to regulate the heating temperature. Power consumption from 1.25 kW/hour, full time heating to a maximum of 70 °C – 60 minutes. The most pleasant and advantageous difference from metal analogues is the weight of 5 kg. Price – 1300 rub. due to savings on stainless steel.

Shower tanks from 60 to 150 l, domestic production, will cost you 3500-5000 rubles. 200 liter containers - approximately from 7,000 rubles. and higher.

Safety regulations

The basic rules for safe operation are simple: standard wiring protection and grounding, water level control and complete removal liquids before wintering. Let's take a closer look at grounding: often it doesn't exist. If you don’t want to do grounding, you will have to constantly disconnect the device from the network and make sure that no one comes near it while heating the water. There is only one way out: it must be done.

Grounding an individual device is very simple. The water heater is disassembled (the housing is removed), the grounding wire is located (usually a conductor in yellow-green insulation) and a separate cable is led from its contact to the grounding circuit. You can also make a grounding connection from a grounded socket installed for the device, then you will not need to disassemble the water heater itself.

The circuit is made from a strip 40 mm wide in the form of a triangle with a side of 40-60 cm, with a leg and is dug to a depth of 1-1.5 m. This design is sufficiently capable of protecting you from electric shock even from several devices.

It is forbidden to turn on a bulk water heater when the water level is below the heating element. In models with a temperature controller, the device simply will not allow you to do this: the heating element’s thermal relay will work. In installations without this function, you will have to control it yourself, otherwise in case of overheating the heating element will simply explode. The unpleasant, pungent smell of an overheated ceramic shell is tightly absorbed into the walls of the tank and will not disappear for a long time.

When leaving the dacha, do not forget to completely empty the container and disconnect it from the network.

How to make it yourself

Making a water heater yourself is very simple: most people know how to do it. A stainless steel tank is brewed or the required plastic container is purchased. Most heating elements are already equipped with overheating protection - connecting them is also not difficult.

But the truth is that producing this equipment yourself is no cheaper in terms of time and money than buying ready-made equipment: all the imaginary savings are “eaten up” on delivery, on expensive stainless steel welding and purchase additional materials: electrical accessories, sealants, seals, insulation, etc. This is especially true for large tanks.

But we do not besiege your desire to engage in technical creativity: if time is pressing and inspiration is off the charts, go for it!

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