Secrets of restoration of wooden doors. How to putty a wooden door Putty on wood for door repair
When restoring wooden doors, they are often repaired, which makes it possible to save on the modernization of the leaf, to maintain the quality of the product without dismantling. Also, the restoration of wooden doors contributes to their adaptation to different styles, which may change during the renovation of rooms.
In some cases, it is cheaper to repair a door than to replace it.
For old houses and apartments, such measures are more profitable compared to replacing them with more modern models(especially when the opening parameters do not meet modern standards).
Examples of restoration work To fix the door and carry out restoration work, you may need different tools and materials, including: a screwdriver or drill, a hacksaw, sandpaper, paintwork materials, stain with varnish, a brush or a spray gun. To remove the old layer, you will need a grinder, solvents or a hair dryer.
How to take a door off its hinges
To restore the old panel, it is removed from the hinges and laid on the base (chairs, workbench, floor). Such work can be done with an attached door, but this will affect the quality of the product and it can lead.
By tie-in and fixation, hidden, overhead, card, hidden, screwed, mortise loops are distinguished. If the loop needs to be disassembled, then after removing the door from the lying panel, it is twisted with a screwdriver. Otherwise, it will be necessary to put bars under the door, unscrewing the hardware from the slope and the panel.
After removing the loops from the canvas, you need to remove other fittings (lock and handles), existing inserts. To remove the decor from plastic or glass, you need to remove the fixing glazing beads and pull the elements out of the grooves. Nothing superfluous should remain on the wooden surface.
How to remove old paint
Before starting restoration work, the old peeling coating should be removed from the balcony or interior door. To do this, you can use one of several methods, i.e. pick up for specific case suitable option.
Grinding
If you need to process a flat door with numerous layers of paint, it is better to take it outside and clean it with a grinder. Such work is very dusty, the circles quickly become clogged, but it turns out good result.
Numerous layers of paint are removed from the doors with grinder Chemistry
There are many in hardware stores. chemical compositions to remove the old layer (for example, B52). They need to be applied to the door surface with a brush, spatula, scraper. After a certain time, foaming of the paint and its peeling are observed. Then the unnecessary layer is removed with a spatula.
Due to the harmfulness of solvent vapors, work must be carried out in a respirator and gloves. A thinner must be applied to each layer of paint, as it will not cope with a dense paintwork. Therefore, this technology can be used when cleaning small areas of a door with a thin paint layer.
When working with a chemical paint thinner, safety precautions must be observed You can make your own paint remover by mixing caustic soda, oatmeal with water to a thick consistency. The resulting composition must be evenly distributed over the cloth and removed after half an hour with a spatula.
Gas-burner
According to the rules fire safety to Work with gas burner needed on the street. Heated paint peels off easily, but it can smoke and release toxic fumes. It is better to use this method with certain skills in working with the burner, the presence of a certain supply of cylinders.
Building hair dryer
With the help of such a device, a jet of air is issued with a temperature of not more than 600 degrees. This will be enough to warm up the old paint and remove it with a spatula. At the same time, the smell of burning does not appear, although the procedure is considered long and laborious.
You can use a blow dryer to remove old paint. When using a building hair dryer, it is forbidden to deviate to the canvas, as there is a risk of burns from hot air. Compared to using a burner, this method is safer. But you need to work carefully so as not to damage the tree and there is no gap.
Drill with nozzle
Dirty enough, but fast method cleansing the old linen is mechanization. You can use a drill with a specialized abrasive brush. When cleaning the surface, you should work carefully so that there is no damage and chips to the wood from metal bristles. To process the entire canvas, you should buy several nozzles.
Using abrasive nozzles for a drill, remove the old layer of paint A large amount of dust and dirt must be taken into account, so a respirator and safety glasses should be used. It is advisable to work outdoors so that paint particles do not scatter around the room.
This technique allows you to correct the outer coating, gently and sparingly removing difficult dirt and old varnish from wood, glass and metal sheet without damage. Together with compressed air, the door surface will be coated with Armex biodegradable cleaning agent.
But this method has a significant drawback - the inability to implement cleaning in the room. The door must be delivered to the workshop, which will entail additional costs.
Puttying a wooden door
After removing the old paint, you need to level the canvas with sandpaper. It is mounted on the holder and the door is processed, which allows you to remove the remaining layers from hard-to-reach areas, smooth out cracks and scratches.
After the door is sanded, it must be vacuumed, degreased with white spirit. Then you need to take a primer and, after mixing, apply a thin layer on the canvas. Priming will extend the life of the wood, and will also serve as the basis for applying a new layer of paint. On average for square meter products take 100 grams of primer. A primer for restoration with a chalk base is suitable, and for opening the varnish when doing work on your own, PVA glue diluted in distilled water (in a ratio of 1/1) is used.
After removing the paint, the wooden canvas is sanded and coated with primer. If the canvas has a deep gap, then it is removed by selecting a piece of wood of the appropriate shade and size. The sliver is smeared with carpentry glue and firmly driven into the existing hole. After 24 hours, the glue will dry, and the surface can be primed, puttied and painted. After that, you need to putty the door, apply a special compound with a thin spatula, which can close up small dents. Next, you need to prime the surface so that the paint layer is absorbed evenly.
Putty should be distributed evenly, leaving to dry. Then to eliminate small defects you will have to treat the surface a second time with fine-grained sandpaper.
Strengthening the door
Strengthening of a cloth is carried out by metal corners. But for the aesthetics of the door, it should be strengthened with carved products, which are fixed after painting with self-tapping screws or thin nails.
The corner gives the structure rigidity Glass replacement
Old cloudy or broken glass is easy to replace yourself. Instead, you can put a new one of any type (plain, multi-colored, smooth, embossed, tinted, sandblasted, transparent or matte). It is irrational to change glass with a thickness of 1 cm, as it will be expensive and you need to have certain skills.
Glass with glazing beads
Replacing glass, which is fastened with glazing beads, is the easiest to do. First, they are dismantled, removing the fragments with their hands. After that, you need to take pliers and a metal spatula, pry off a bead with them. With pliers, carnations must be carefully pulled out, cleaned with a knife or chisel and measured. For a non-standard opening, a figured pattern is cut out of cardboard, but you need to take into account the dimensions of the glass, which should be slightly smaller than the opening. After washing and drying the glass, the pattern is transferred from the pattern and cutting is performed. In order not to injure your hands, you need to use gloves, work with a working glass cutter on a flat surface.
Fixing glass to glazing beads Along the perimeter, the glass opening is sealed, the cut-out segment is mounted, new fasteners are sawn with a jigsaw and fixed with thin carnations.
Glass with concealed fixation
If the glass on the door is installed in a hidden way, then it will be necessary to disassemble the structure, unscrew the fasteners. After that, the old glass is removed, and a new glass is put in its place. In this case, the use of silicone is not allowed, which will make further replacement impossible.
A major disadvantage of replacing such glasses is the risk of reducing the tightness of the sheet after assembly. It will be necessary to straighten the door with a planer. Glass can be replaced with an unbreakable acrylic mirror, which will be quite durable, aesthetic, light, and cut quickly.
Finishing
After you manage to cover up all the defects, you should choose a method finishing. The easiest is painting. There is a large selection of compositions on the market, among which you can choose the right tone in accordance with the interior.
In the store you can buy overhead facades and decorate the canvas. They are fixed with PVA glue. Apply if necessary wooden elements decor, the fastening of which is carried out on staples or nails.
The solid wood door can be updated with special plaster, which allows you to get three-dimensional and embossed patterns. In some cases, craftsmen use crackle compounds, which causes the surface to become covered with small cracks and become “obsolete”. A similar effect can be obtained after processing with fine sandpaper.
Painting
Not everyone knows how to repair an interior door with your own hands using staining. It is not necessary to use oil-based paint. More suitable water or acrylic compounds which do not smell and dry quickly.
Painting should be done in the following sequence:
- Take a roller with a finely porous nozzle and cover the canvas with paint;
- paint over hard-to-reach places and all corners with a tassel;
- Leave the design to dry;
- After drying, repeat the coloring;
- You can decorate the surface of the door with stencils.
For painting the door, it is better to use water or acrylic compounds. For coloring, you can use different paintwork materials (latex, semi-gloss or gloss), apply stains and varnish them. But such a finish is suitable for well-preserved products.
It is better to apply two coats of paint (one white and the other tinted). Instead of a roller, you can use a brush or spray gun. Existing glass inserts are sealed with adhesive tape.
Finishing with MDF panels
Occasional door repair simple ways does not lead to the expected results, so you have to take drastic measures. When a complete renewal of the canvas is required, overhead facades are suitable. They are produced from different materials. It is rational to buy an MDF inlay that does not absorb moisture, retains its shape, has optimal strength and rigidity, is quickly fixed and is inexpensive. As a result, the restored door changes its appearance drastically.
MDF panels can be used as a door finish Need to buy canvas right size, impose a facade on the finished base, fixing it with PVA or self-tapping screws.
Natural or artificial leather trim
Previously, door lining was carried out with dermantine, which was distinguished by elasticity and high strength. Such material is easy to clean, resistant to temperature extremes and humidity, retains its color under UV exposure and is environmentally friendly.
Vinyl leather, in addition to the decorative function, has thermal insulation properties. Such restoration increases the thermal insulation performance of the structure, the level of sound insulation, and makes it more attractive. But the finishing process is laborious, the material can be damaged.
Finishing with wooden slats
Finishing the door can be done with fiberboard or clapboard. Wooden slats are strong, durable, not subject to physical and mechanical stress. Previously, the wood must be prepared, dried and covered with antiseptic compounds. This will ensure optimal strength of the panels, and the treatments will protect against ignition. Panels are attached to a leveled surface to a pre-mounted crate or canvas.
Finishing the door can be done using lining Before cladding, wooden panels must be polished, stained, impregnated or varnished.. You can choose any direction of the rails (diagonal, horizontal, vertical or geometric pattern).
Film lamination
In order to properly laminate the door surface, it is better not to use a budget PVC film, but to choose a self-adhesive version of D-C-FIX. Such a coating will last more than 10 years, will not burn out and will not rub off. You can take a film coating that imitates wood, stone, abstraction or another pattern that is suitable for a particular design. You need to glue the film carefully, cutting it out in advance according to the patterns.
It is important to expel all air bubbles with a flat board. Veneered door restoration
To restore the surface of the door, veneer with an adhesive base is used. There is an option to restore a wooden door with veneer with an adhesive base.
The laminate is glued to the panel using liquid nails or glue. To hide the edges around the perimeter, lacquered or painted slats are stuffed, after which the resulting frame is filled with material. Panels with an end part can be painted in the same shade.
On the second side of the veneer there is an adhesive backing. To fasten it, cut strips are laid on the canvas and ironed with an iron.
Replacing door hinges
After the door covering is ready, the inserts and fittings should be put in place. There will be no problems if the old parts are installed (lock, hinges, handle). Can be replaced door hinges new, so that there is no distortion of the structure.
Decor door slopes- obligatory part overhaul or finishing a newly built house. Classic design today we can consider their plastering. This method, although it takes a lot of time, is the most reliable: with such a finish, there are no voids left. Although this is not an easy task, but, subject to technology, do-it-yourself plastering of slopes can also be done at a good level. In any case, you can prepare the surface for wallpapering yourself.
How to plaster slopes
What plaster is better to plaster slopes? It is easier to work with Knauf compounds, cheaper - cement-sand. Which is better for you is up to you.
Technology
Plastering slopes begins after the surface of the main walls is leveled. The work ahead is dirty, therefore it is desirable to have a door leaf, floor and door frame cover with a film, oilcloth or other similar materials. The jamb can be pasted over with masking tape - it will be easier to clean.
Preparation
The first stage of work is the preparation of surfaces. First, poorly adhering plaster, pieces of brick, and other building material are removed. If the doors have changed old plaster it can stick out a lot. In this case, even if it holds up well, it is beaten.
Then, grease or oil stains, if any, are treated with neutralizers. Old paint is also cleaned off: plaster does not adhere well to it. After that, dust and dirt are removed.
If the cracks didn't foam when you installed the door, you'll need to do it now. Mounting foam applied to the wetted surface volume - no more than 1/3 of the required amount. First, all the dust is cleaned, then moistened with a spray bottle. After a few minutes, it will greatly increase in size, filling in all the empty gaps. After waiting for the foam to polymerize (harden), the excess is cut off with a knife. It is more convenient to do this with ordinary stationery for paper.
If the plaster is cement-sand mortar, the surface is moistened. This can be done from the same spray gun or with a brush, roller.
We expose the guides
Plastering slopes with your own hands, as well as walls, is more convenient along the guides. Outside the doorway, in order to obtain a smooth and rigid edge, a perforated paint corner is usually placed. Well fixed, it can be used as a guide.
It is cut to the height of the doorway. The upper edge of the corner, which will be adjacent to the main wall, is cut down at an angle of 45 °. It is better to do this, because for some reason this edge always lifts up during work and causes a lot of inconvenience.
You can fix the corner in several ways:
Having pressed the corner well, it is leveled so that its edge is flush with the main wall. The solution that has come out through the holes is removed with a spatula. Then they take an even bar (you can use a building level or a rule), apply it to the corner, checking how evenly the corner is set. They check both from the side of the main wall and from the side of the slope.
The procedure is repeated on the other side, and then on top. At the junction of the corners, the absence of drops can be checked by running a finger along the junction.
There is another way to fasten the corners - on nails or on self-tapping screws. This method is good when working with drywall, but it is not used for plastering: the hats interfere.
The second guide is the door jamb. When installing the door, they were set exactly, so this is - good landmark. But since the solution should not cover the entire surface of the jamb, a template is cut out of some dense material, with which the solution is then leveled. It is better to cut it out of a piece of plastic: the edge is even, and it glides well, and is quite dense. You can use a piece of flat wooden plank. Only the edge that will cut off the excess solution should be perfectly flat. The part of the template that will slide along the jamb is made in the form of a step. This protrusion will remove excess solution.
You can work with a spatula or a rule, but then a beacon is installed and fixed along the jamb at the required distance. The tool rests on it when cutting off excess mortar.
In this video tutorial on plastering slopes, the technology for attaching perforated corners is explained in detail, explanations are given regarding the technique of applying putty during a fine finish.
Do-it-yourself rough plastering of slopes
The process of applying plaster to a slope is no different: a solution is thrown onto a dust-free and wetted surface. They do this with a wide spatula or a paint bucket - whoever is used to it. It is more convenient to start from the bottom, moving up.
Leading the rule or template along the guides, shaking from side to side, the solution is leveled, the excess is removed back into the container. For the first penetration, you can not achieve a particularly flat surface, but be sure to monitor the condition of the corners - remove excess mortar regularly.
Plaster slopes are made in two stages: the first is rough, the second is finishing.
Some problems may arise when plastering the upper slope: it is more difficult to apply the mortar here. It is taken with a wide trowel (spatula) and slightly pressed, applied with a small broach. If the surface is rough, there is usually no problem. They can occur if the top is installed concrete beam. To such a surface, the solution, especially cement-sand, “sticks” badly. In this case, it is necessary to pre-impregnate it with a primer, which serves to improve adhesion (adhesion) with finishing materials.
Treatment may also be required if the surface on which the DSP plaster is applied strongly absorbs water (silicate and clinker brick, For example). Only in this case, the primer should still reduce the absorption of moisture. The second option is to use special formulations Knauf - they do not react so sharply to a lack of fluid. And the third way is to apply a layer of tile adhesive to the surface treated with primers, forming a wave with a notched trowel. Tile adhesive remarkably "clings" to the most difficult surfaces, and itself serves as a wonderful base.
If all this seems very complicated to you, read the article on how. Everything is extremely simple there. No mortars and spatulas, and the result is excellent. Or you can do. The view is almost the same, but done faster. After you can.
Finishing layer
After some time, or the next day, the dried plaster is leveled, applying a second finishing layer. It is impossible to start leveling too early - the solution “floats”, loses its shape. Touch the plastered surface: the mortar should crumble, but not “float”.
For fine alignment, the solution is made a little more liquid. It is also applied and stretched. Only this time you need to make sure that the surface is even. If necessary, the solution is re-added to the voids, filling even minor pits.
Grout
This step creates a perfectly flat surface. You can overwrite the plaster only after the mortar has set. This should take at least 16-24 hours (depending on humidity and temperature). To determine if you can start grouting, take a little grout from the wall in your fingers and rub it. If it crumbles - you can work, if it is smeared - we are waiting for more.
The solution is made even more liquid. It is no longer applied, but rather poured onto the surface. And it is distributed not with a spatula or template, but with a grater - a foam surface with a handle. With this grater, the solution is distributed over the surface in a circular motion. At the same time, the plaster becomes even, monophonic. This procedure is optional, especially if then everything will be puttied. But this is how your do-it-yourself plastering of slopes takes on a finished look. But again, this is not necessary.
This video shows how to plaster door slopes with cement-sand plaster. The case is not easy, the explanations are detailed, only in some places the sound is not the best.
Finishing of plastered slopes
If further the slope is painted, the putty is perfectly leveled. To do this, apply two layers: starting and finishing. The starting putty has a larger grain, it can be stacked in a layer up to 1 cm. With its help, all the flaws that are difficult to remove are eliminated. cement mortar. After the finishing putty dries, all the bumps and protrusions are polished with a special mesh. After that, a layer of finishing plaster is applied. It is even more plastic than the starting one, and it can be applied in a very thin layer. With its help, you can achieve perfect smoothness.
For a beginner plasterer, getting a perfectly flat surface for painting is very difficult. It is much easier to level the slope for wallpapering. In this case, you can stop at the starting putty.
If the old slopes were slightly damaged during the installation of the door and they can simply be restored, there will be less work. It will only be necessary to throw a cavity with a solution and level it with a long trowel (trowel).
Stucco doorway
Sometimes doors are not placed in the opening, but in this case, the doorway requires finishing. And the easiest way to do this is with plaster. The technology of the plaster itself is similar, but the guides and their installation methods are different.
The plastering of the doorway begins only after both adjoining walls have already been plastered. The opening itself is covered with a primer (the principle of selection is the same).
Guides are installed from the sides. It could be boards metal profiles, two rules, pieces of plastic, fiberboard, etc. One is installed on the right, the second - on the left, they are fixed. The easiest way to fix them is with clamps. If there are no clamps, you can use nails or screws - the remaining holes will then need to be carefully repaired.
The leading edges of the guides will serve as the basis on which the rule will move or wide spatula. The sequence of actions is the same: the first layer is rough, the second is finishing, if it is necessary to bring it to an ideal state, grout is done. For more information on how to putty a doorway, see the video.
All photos from the article
If there are defects on the surface of wooden products (chips, cracks, irregularities, etc.), then they must be puttied before painting or varnishing. When correct execution this operation, the flaws become completely invisible. In this article, we will take a closer look at what and how to putty wooden surfaces to get a quality result.
Wood putties
Kinds
First of all, it should be said that the quality of puttying largely depends on the choice of composition. Therefore, first of all, we will consider how to putty wood.
Currently, there are quite a few varieties of putties, which somewhat complicates their choice. Therefore, first of all, we will get acquainted with the most common of them:
| Tish putty | Peculiarities |
| Gypsum | Often used for woodworking, so it can be considered classic version. This composition is characterized by good adhesion and elasticity, in addition, its price is quite low. The only thing to keep in mind is that gypsum putty does not tolerate moisture. |
| Acrylic | The cost of such putties is much higher than gypsum compositions, but they have a number of advantages, such as:
The disadvantages of this composition include the fact that it is not intended for sealing wide and deep cracks. |
| Polymer | They also belong to expensive putties, but they lie flat, dry quickly and at the same time are highly durable. Therefore, they can be used to work with parquet and other surfaces that will subsequently be subjected to significant mechanical stress. Prominent representatives of polymer putties are latex and silicone compounds. As for the shortcomings, in addition to high cost They don't have any obvious downsides. |
| Nitro putty | Resistant to chemicals and water, does not shrink and is easy to sand. For this reason, it is also very popular. |
Note!
Putty can be starting and finishing.
As a rule, the finish is more liquid and elastic.
As we can see, each material has its own characteristics, and it is rather difficult to say which wood putty is better. Therefore, you should choose depending on the operating conditions. wooden structure and features of the flaws that need to be eliminated.
Self-manufacturing
It is not necessary to purchase material in the store, since you can do wood putty on your own. Moreover, there are quite a few options for its manufacture.
So, the instructions for filling wood are as follows:
- Before puttying a wooden window or other wooden product, it must be thoroughly cleaned of dust and any contaminants. To do this, you can wipe the surface with a damp cloth or even clean it with sandpaper.
- Next, the slots are prepared - if they are too narrow, then they need to be slightly expanded. Loose or chipping parts must be removed.
In the photo - a primer on wood
- Then the wood must be treated with a primer, which will prevent it from rotting or mold, and also improve the adhesion of the putty. The primer is usually applied in two layers. Moreover, the second time the surface is treated with a liquid after the first layer has completely dried.
- After that, the putty is taken from the container with a small spatula and applied to the surface with a layer of 2-3 mm. The spatula should be pressed firmly and held at a slight angle to the surface.
- When the first layer hardens, it is necessary to remove irregularities with a spatula or sandpaper, and apply another layer. The surface must first be cleaned of dust.
- If the desired result is practically achieved, you can apply the finishing putty with a layer no thicker than 1.5 mm.
- After that, the surface must be carefully sanded with sandpaper "null" dipped in water.
- At the end of the work, the puttied surface must be covered again.
Advice!
When choosing a primer, you should focus on the type of putty.
For example, under nitro putty it is better to use a nitro primer.
This completes the work. Now that you know how to putty wood floors or other wood surfaces, you can do the job yourself.
Conclusion
In order to qualitatively putty a tree, it is necessary to choose the right putty and follow the basic rules for its application. And this work is quite laborious and requires certain skills. However, doing it yourself, you can “fill your hand” quite quickly.
Get to know some additional information on the topic voiced above, you can from the video in this article.
Real wooden doors are quite expensive nowadays. Therefore, you should not throw away old boring doors if their appearance leaves much to be desired or does not correspond to freshly pasted wallpaper and new furniture. Of course, you can buy modern hollow glued doors at a low price or shell out a pretty tidy sum and make to order from natural wood. However, why throw money away if good doors already exist and stand in their place? In this case, the best way out is to carry out a home restoration of old doors with your own hands, because the new product will also have to be sanded and painted, and you also need to embed hinges and locks. But restoration is not just painting or covering with a self-adhesive film. In order for the doors to change, you need to remove all layers of paint, then putty the surface to smooth out defects, sand it and only then cover it with varnish or matte enamel.
Restoring an old door is much cheaper than buying a new one.
Preparing old doors for renovation
It is best to restore the door leaf in private room or on the street, as this procedure is quite dusty and requires free space. To work, you need the following tools:
- electric drill;
- grooving saw;
- building hair dryer;
- putty knife;
- crowbar;
- chisel;
- screwdriver;
- brushes;
- hammer;
- skinner manual.
Materials needed for the restoration of doors:
- deep penetration primer;
- small and large sandpaper;
- varnish or paint;
- putty;
- accessories;
- platbands;
- glazing beads for glass doors.
Having prepared everything the right tools and materials, you can remove the doors from the hinges and lay them in horizontal position onto a flat surface. When removing doors, a crowbar should be used only as a last resort and be careful not to spoil the door leaf. If upholstery is present, it is removed and the object is left for restoration in its original appearance. Then they remove the locks, handles, take out the glass from the glazed door (it is better to replace them with new ones).
After that, they begin to remove the paint with a building hair dryer. To do this, small areas of the painted surface are heated and immediately after the paint is swollen, it is eliminated with a spatula. After every 15 minutes of operation, the hair dryer must be turned off and take a break for 5 minutes. This is necessary in order to prevent tool breakage, especially if it is unprofessional. During operation, do not lean over the hair dryer very low, as its heating temperature reaches 6000◦.
Most of the paint is removed this way, but some areas cannot be cleaned with heat and a spatula, so the next step is to manually sand the door surface. To do this, put sandpaper on a manual skinner and walk along the door leaf. After such processing, no bumps, burrs or fragments of the old coating should remain. The doors are then primed with a deep penetration primer and left to dry.
The main stages in the reconstruction of the door
The first step is to clean the surface of the door from the old paint.
The final removal of flaws from the surface occurs last. This is where wood putty comes in handy. If the door is in very poor condition, it will be necessary to putty most of the door leaf; with small flaws, it is enough to level only the damaged areas. After the putty has dried, the surface is sanded with medium-grained sandpaper in the direction of the fibers, avoiding diagonal and transverse strokes. This must be done so that after grinding there are no traces left. After processing with sandpaper, the door leaf is moistened to raise small villi and smoothed with zero sandpaper. Puttied places are covered with a primer.
The next step is to paint the doors. It is best done in two stages. First of all, the door is covered with matte enamel, and then the necessary tone is given with Belinka paint. Before painting the doors, dust is removed from the surface and wiped with a damp cloth. Painting is done with an ordinary paint brush in one layer along the wood fibers. To avoid drips, the door is painted in a horizontal position. After drying, it is turned over to the other side and the procedure is repeated. In this position, the paint lays down perfectly even when using a conventional paint brush.
A well-dried surface is sanded with fine sandpaper to remove microscopic dust particles. After that, you can start tinting the door leaf. Belinka Lasur paint is best suited for this. Lasur paint is very glossy, its consistency is rather watery, so the coloring must be done very carefully so that there are no noticeable marks from the brush. How many layers you need to apply depends on how rich the desired color should be.
Each new layer is applied only after the previous one has completely dried, this happens from 6 to 12 hours. The dried layer is sanded with zero sandpaper before applying the next one. Usually an even layer is obtained after two approaches.
The door is almost ready, you can insert new glass. They are pressed down with glazing beads and fixed with decorative nails, then the fittings and locks are screwed on. If necessary, update the door frame and hang the doors.
This completes the restoration. There is nothing laborious about it. In the same way, you can update all the old doors, prolong their life and restore beauty.
Pasting the door leaf with veneer
With the help of veneer, not only the restoration of the door is carried out, but also its repair.
The price of such an update is somewhat higher than simple staining, but as a result, the product becomes interesting and beautiful. appearance.
In order to update the surface of the door with veneer, you need to purchase thin sheets of wood on a special adhesive base and cover the door surface with them using a hot iron. After warming up, the veneer is fixed with a dense load and varnished. With this method of restoration, you need to be careful not to allow the formation of empty space under the glued sheets of wood.
For restoration you will need the following materials:
- veneer;
- putty;
- pattern paper;
- wood glue;
- syndeticone glue or putty.
And, of course, you can not do without tools such as:
- metal ruler;
- jigsaw;
- plane;
- sandpaper;
- scissors;
- carpentry knife;
- screwdriver;
- iron;
- smooth bar;
- syringe or pipette.
First of all, the surface is leveled with a planer, it is used in case of serious defects. If the irregularities are minor, then it will be enough to clean with ordinary sandpaper. Cracks and crevices are smoothed out with syndeticone glue or putty. The door, treated with putty or syndeticone glue, is left to dry completely, and then sanded with sandpaper.
Now you can start cutting sheets of wood in accordance with door dimensions. The pattern is first made on paper in order to preserve finishing material and save your own time.
Using a carpenter's knife and a metal ruler, veneer sheets are cut into pieces of the required shape. Then wood glue is prepared and applied to the back of the wood sheets and to the door leaf. To impregnate the material with carpentry glue, it is necessary to withstand the treated surfaces for 8-10 minutes.
After that, the veneer is applied to the doors and ironed with an iron heated to 50 °. Instead of an iron, you can use a smooth bar. Rubbing is carried out from the middle to the edges, moving along the texture lines of the veneer.
Air bubbles should not be allowed to appear under the veneer sheets, but if they do form, this area is moistened with water and an incision is made. Air is pumped out with a syringe or pipette. In conclusion, the restored door is left for 1.5-2 hours until completely dry.
Finishing wooden doors with embossed decorative strips
Can be given interior doors an original, avant-garde look with embossed planks and a variety of paint tones. This work requires diligence, but, using the advice of the masters, you can facilitate the restoration.
First of all, the door is removed and given a horizontal position on the table or construction goats. Then the door leaf is treated on all sides with sandpaper to eliminate irregularities. Dust is best removed with a vacuum cleaner and a damp cloth. The prepared surface is covered with the thinnest layer of primer and left to dry. The primed door leaf is sanded with waterproof fine sandpaper, constantly moistening. Now the surface is completely ready, an initial layer of varnish is applied to it in parallel strokes using a paint roller or brush.
The dried layer is treated with fine sandpaper, not forgetting to moisten the surface. The next layer is applied in the same way and after grinding - the final one. Before continuing the restoration, the door leaf is left for several days until completely dry.
During this time, you can prepare embossed strips by spreading them out on thick paper and treated with a thin layer of primer. After the primer composition has dried, the planks are sanded with fine sandpaper and varnished in two layers with the obligatory polishing of each of them. During the time until decorative details dry up on door leaf, make marks for the exact location of the decoration. Then the relief strips are fixed on the door leaf with small nails and glue. If desired, the finished planks can be given the desired shade by tinting them with varnish of the desired color.
You can convert blind doors with glass inserts. But here it will be necessary to consult a professional carpenter. It will help to put a drawing on the door, cut it out and insert the slats to fix the glass. Such a reconstruction of old wooden doors not only completely changes the look of the product, but also transforms the room, making it more spacious and brighter.
Restoration of doors is an affordable and effective method of updating and transforming a living space, which brings not only visible benefits, but also gives pleasure during the creative process. The main thing is that the decor of the updated doors should correspond to the general direction in interior design.
