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Do-it-yourself sewer system in a private house. Do-it-yourself sewerage device in a private house. General principles for installing sewerage in a private house

To make life in the country comfortable, it is necessary to carry out the main communications - plumbing and sewerage. On suburban areas often there is no centralized sewerage network, so each owner of the house solves the problem on his own. Periodic use of the dwelling does not require the installation of expensive and complex equipment, it is enough to arrange a septic tank.

Often in summer cottages, the function of collecting wastewater is performed by a cesspool. If the house is not equipped plumbing system this option fully justifies itself, but with the installation of plumbing fixtures and a large volume of drained water, it is not enough. In this article we will talk about how to make a sewer in the country with our own hands in various ways (from concrete rings, barrels, without pumping out), as well as demonstrate diagrams, drawings, photo and video instructions.

Sewerage should be built according to the developed project, including schemes for external and internal piping.

Two-chamber septic tank

The most convenient is the installation of a collector of two chambers connected by an overflow pipe. Let's find out how to arrange it yourself.

1. Work begins with digging a pit in a place chosen taking into account all sanitary requirements. The volume of the structure depends on the number of people living in the country. You can dig a pit manually or with an excavator.
2. At the bottom of the pit, a sand cushion up to 15 cm high is formed. The depth of the pit is 3 meters.
3. It is necessary to install formwork from boards or chipboard. The design must be reliable. Next, a reinforcing belt is formed from metal rods tied with steel wire.
4. It is necessary to make two holes in the formwork and insert pipe trimmings. These will be places for the entrance of the sewer line and the overflow pipe between the sections.
5. The formwork is poured with concrete, which is distributed throughout the entire volume with the help of a vibrating tool. The design of the septic tank must be monolithic, so it is advisable to fill the entire formwork at a time.
6. In the first compartment, the bottom is poured with concrete, a sealed section is formed, it will serve as a sump. Here, the wastewater will be divided into solid coarse fractions that sink to the bottom, and clarified water that overflows into the adjacent section. For better decomposition of solid residues, aerobic bacteria can be purchased.
7. The second compartment is made without a bottom, it can be made not only from monolithic walls, but also using concrete rings with a diameter of 1–1.5 meters, stacked on top of each other. The bottom of the well is covered with a thick layer of sedimentary rock (crushed stone, pebbles, gravel) to filter wastewater.
8. An overflow pipe is laid between the two sections. It is installed at an inclination of 30 mm per linear meter. In height, the pipe is located in the upper third of the wells. The number of sections is not necessarily limited to two; a four-section septic tank can be made to provide better cleaning.
9. The overlap of the septic tank is made independently, using formwork and concrete, or ready-made reinforced concrete slabs are used. Be sure to arrange a hatch that allows you to control the filling of sections and exhaust. The pit is filled with sand and selected soil. The sump of such a system will be cleaned every 2-3 years.

Due to the ease of installation, many summer residents prefer to make a septic tank from concrete rings.

If the soil in the area is clay or ground water are located very close to the surface, it will not work to arrange a septic tank of this design. You can stop at a sealed container of sufficient volume, securely installed and secured to concrete slab in the pit.

Another option is a biological treatment plant. Local stations are convenient and efficient, they are indispensable for suburban buildings of a large area. Specialists are engaged in the installation and launch of the device, the cost of such a station is acceptable for a narrow circle of summer residents.

External line laying

From the exit of the sewer pipe from the house to the septic tank, it is necessary to lay a pipeline. The main line must lie at a slope providing the flow of polluted water. The larger the diameter of the pipes you use, the smaller the angle of inclination required for their operation, on average it is 2 degrees. The depth of the trench for laying pipes should be greater than the amount of winter freezing of the soil. If the trench is shallow, provide thermal insulation for the line.

The average depth for laying sewers is 1 meter, in warm regions it is enough to go down by 70 cm, and in cold regions you will need to dig a pit up to 1.5 meters. The bottom of the dug hole is covered with a dense cushion of compacted sand. This procedure will protect the pipes from soil displacement.

The best option would be to lay a direct pipeline to the collector. If necessary, make a turn, this place is equipped with a manhole. For the highway, you can use plastic and cast iron pipes with a diameter of 110 mm, their connection must be tight. After installation, the pipeline is covered with sand, and then with soil.

The design, which does not require regular pumping of sewage, consists of several tanks operating simultaneously. It can be two / three-chamber septic tanks. The first tank is used as a sump. It is the largest in size. In two-chamber septic tanks, the sump occupies ¾ of the structure, and in three-chamber ½. Here, a preliminary treatment of wastewater takes place: heavy fractions settle, and light fractions are poured into the next compartment as the first one is filled. In the last part of the septic tank, the final post-treatment of wastewater takes place. The water is then directed to the filtration fields/drainage well.

The first 2 compartments must be sealed. The last chamber has holes in the walls/bottom. Thus, purified water seeps into the ground, which helps to avoid the systematic pumping of waste without causing irreparable damage to the soil.

It is worth considering that in wastewater, in addition to organic matter, there are also insoluble impurities. In view of this, such a design will also have to be periodically pumped out in order to get rid of the sediment that accumulates in the sump. This can be done with a fecal / drainage pump. The frequency of maintenance of a septic tank depends entirely on the size / volume / composition of wastewater.

For the independent construction of such a septic tank, you need to correctly calculate its volume. It depends on the water consumption of your household. The norm of water consumption per person is 200 liters per day. So, multiplying this amount by the number of households, you will get the daily rate of water consumption in the house. Add another 20% to the resulting figure.

18 m 3. In this case, you need a septic tank that has a depth and length of 3 m each, and a width of 2 m. Multiplying all sides, you get 18 m 3. The minimum distance from the bottom of the septic tank to the drain pipe is 0.8 m.

The advantage of the treatment system is that the sludge is processed by anaerobic bacteria, as a result of which it settles to the bottom in a much smaller volume. Gradually, this sediment thickens and rises. When the sludge reaches the overflow level, the septic tank must be immediately cleaned. The septic tank needs to be cleaned infrequently. This is due to the fact that the volume of sludge for 6 months will be from 60 to 90 liters.

Volatile septic tanks have built-in pumping units. Their non-volatile analogues should be cleaned manually or using sewage equipment.

However, not so long ago, biological preparations with special enzymes appeared, processing sludge into acid, and then into methane and carbon dioxide. To remove these gases, you just need to install ventilation in the septic tank. Thus, your septic tank will become an absolutely waste-free, safe and energy-independent treatment plant.

Bacteria need to be "fed" with oxygen for greater efficiency of their work. Tanks for a septic tank can be bought or made independently.

Before installing the finished structure of the septic tank, it is necessary to determine a suitable place for this. The minimum distance between the septic tank and the house is 5 m. The sewer pipes leaving the house should go directly to the septic tank. Turning the pipeline is best avoided, because it is in such places that blockages form.

The septic tank should not be installed near trees, as their roots can damage the integrity of the body. The depth of the septic tank and sewer pipes directly depends on the level of soil freezing.

If groundwater is close to the surface, then reinforce the bottom of the pit with a concrete slab / screed. The size of the pit will depend on the size of the septic tank. If you have to install a compact structure, then it is easier to dig a pit manually in order to save money.

The pit should be slightly wider than the septic tank body. The gaps between the walls and the ground should be at least 20 cm, and preferably more. If there is no need to reinforce the bottom, then you should still lay sand cushion 15 cm thick (meaning the thickness of compacted sand).

The top of the septic tank should rise above the ground. Otherwise, melt water in the spring will flood the equipment of the device.

After installing the base of the pit, lower the septic tank into it. This can be done with the help of cables placed in the stiffeners of the septic tank. In this case, you can not do without an assistant. Next, connect the device to communications, after digging trenches for pipes, laying a sand cushion and installing pipes. They should be laid under a slight slope - 1-2 cm per linear meter. Pipe laying is carried out to a depth of approximately 70–80 cm.

The septic tank should be installed strictly according to the level. It will work better in a horizontal position.

To connect the sewer pipe to the septic tank, a hole of the appropriate diameter should be made in it. This is done according to the instructions for the cleaning system. After that, you need to weld the pipe to the hole. To solve this problem, you will need a polypropylene cord and a building hair dryer. When the pipe has cooled down, it will be possible to insert a sewer pipe into it.

If you are connecting a volatile septic tank, then after these steps you need to connect the electrical cable. It is carried out from the shield to a separate machine. It must be laid in a special corrugated pipe and placed in the same trench as the sewer pipe. The septic tank has special holes with stamps. Connect a cable to them.

If the level of soil freezing in your area is large enough, then insulate the septic tank. Any heater can be thermal insulation material which can be used for laying in the ground.

After completing the connection of electricity and pipes, the septic tank should be covered with soil. This is done in layers of 15–20 cm. To equalize the pressure in the process of backfilling the soil, water must be poured into the septic tank. In this case, the water level should be slightly higher than the backfill level of the pit. So, gradually the entire septic tank will be underground.

If you are not satisfied with the finished plastic autonomous system for wastewater treatment, due to its size or cost, then you can make a septic tank from several compartments yourself. An excellent inexpensive material for the implementation of the plan is concrete rings. You can do all the work yourself.

Among the advantages of a septic tank from reinforced concrete rings, we note the following:

• Affordable price.
• Unpretentiousness during operation.
• The ability to perform work without the help of specialists.

Of the shortcomings, the following deserve attention:

1. Presence bad smell. It is impossible to make the structure absolutely airtight, and therefore the formation of an unpleasant odor near the septic tank cannot be avoided.
2. The need to clean the chambers from solid waste using sewage equipment.

It is possible to reduce the frequency of the need to pump out a septic tank if bioactivators are used. They reduce the amount of solid fractions due to the fact that they accelerate the process of their decomposition.

If the installation of the rings is illiterate, then the septic tank will be leaky, which will increase the risk of untreated sewage penetrating into the ground. But, with proper installation, the septic tank will be airtight, so this drawback of the system is rightfully called conditional.

The scheme for the construction of a septic tank, as a rule, includes 1-2 chambers designed for settling and treating wastewater and a filtration field / filter well.

If few people live in your house and a minimum of plumbing devices are connected to the sewer, then you can easily get by with a septic tank, consisting of one sump and a filter well. And vice versa, if you have many households and many devices are connected to the sewer, then it is better to make a septic tank from two chambers and a filtration well.

How to calculate the required volume for a septic tank has already been described above. According to building codes, the septic tank chamber must contain a three-day volume of wastewater. The volume of the reinforced concrete ring is 0.62 m3, which means that in order to build a septic tank for 5 people, you will need a sump of five rings. Where did this amount come from? For 5 people, you need a septic tank with a volume of 3 m 3. This figure must be divided by the volume of the ring, equal to 0.62 m 3. You will get a value of 4.83. It needs to be rounded up, which means that in order to equip a septic tank in this particular case, you will need 5 rings.

The pit must be of such a size that it can accommodate the septic tank chambers and the filter well. These works, of course, can be done manually, but it is long and very difficult, so it is more cost-effective to order digging a pit from a company with earthmoving equipment.

The bottom of the pit at the installation site of the sedimentation chambers must be concreted in order to avoid the possibility of penetration of untreated effluents into the ground. Before the beginning concrete works, it is necessary to drain part of the bottom of the pit for the installation of sedimentation tanks, laying a sand cushion on it, with a layer of 30–50 cm.

If you do not want to concrete the bottom, then you can purchase reinforced concrete rings with a blank bottom. They will need to be installed first in a vertical row.

The place for the filter well also requires the preparation of the base. Under it, you need to make a pillow of sand, crushed stone and gravel with a thickness of at least 50 cm.

To install the rings, you will have to order the services of lifting equipment. It is very difficult to perform these tasks manually. You can, of course, install the rings by digging under the bottom ring. But this method is laborious. Yes, and the bottom will have to be filled after the installation of the last ring, which will entail a number of inconveniences. In view of this, it is better not to save on ordering lifting equipment.

Typically, the rings are fastened together with a solution, but for greater structural reliability, they can be fastened with metal plates or staples. In this case, your septic tank will not suffer due to ground movement.

Now it's time to organize an overflow, and for this you need to bring pipes to the rings. It is better that they work on the principle of a water seal, that is, they must be installed with a bend.

To seal the joints, you need to use a solution with an aqua barrier. WITH outer side tanks must be treated with coating or built-up waterproofing.

Another option is to purchase plastic cylinders installed inside the well. In this case, the likelihood of dirty water ingress will be minimized.

Installation of ceilings / backfill

Finished wells must be covered with special concrete slabs, in which holes are provided for mounting sewer manholes. Ideally, the backfill of the excavation should be carried out with soil with a high percentage of sand in its composition. But if it is impossible to realize this, the pit can be covered with soil removed from it before.

Now the septic tank can be put into operation.

The wastewater treatment system from barrels, as well as a similar design made of concrete goods, can be two- or three-chamber. Wastewater will flow into it by gravity, so it must be installed below the sewer pipes. The principle of operation of this device is similar to the construction of reinforced concrete rings.

For the arrangement of an autonomous sewage system according to the principle of a treatment system, you can use any containers. These can be old metal/plastic barrels. The main thing is that they are airtight.

If you decide to make a septic tank from metal barrels, then they should be pre-treated with an anti-corrosion agent.

Plastic containers have several advantages over their metal counterparts:

1. A wide range of plastic containers that can be used to equip a septic tank.
2. Barrels are highly resistant to the aggressive effects of effluents. Therefore, they last longer than their metal counterparts.
3. The light weight of the containers simplifies their installation at the place of permanent deployment.
4. Plastic does not need to be further processed, unlike metal.
5. The high tightness of the barrels eliminates the possibility of penetration dirty waters into the ground.

Plastic barrels must be securely fixed when installed in the ground, because due to spring floods or winter frosts, they can be squeezed out of the ground. In view of this, plastic barrels are attached with cables to concrete base(it must first be poured or a reinforced concrete slab installed). In order not to crush plastic barrels, backfilling should be carried out very carefully.

For seasonal use, sewage from metal barrels is also suitable, but for stationary use this is not an option.

The popularity of metal containers for arranging sewerage is associated with their compactness and ease of installation. As a cover, you can use a wooden blank of the appropriate size or the one provided by the manufacturer. To install a metal septic tank, you need to dig an appropriate pit, which also needs to be concreted - walls and bottom.

Metal containers do not have a long service life even after they have been treated with anti-corrosion compounds. Therefore, their installation as a septic tank may be unprofitable. Buying stainless steel containers is not an option, as these products are very expensive.

Maybe you decide that in this case you can buy barrels with thin walls. However, this is also not the best solution, since during operation such a septic tank can be pushed out. Yes, and such barrels have a limited capacity - up to 250 liters, which is not suitable for a large family.

For the installation of a reliable wastewater treatment system, it is better to use factory polymer barrels.

To make a septic tank from 220 l barrels, you will need the following materials:

• geotextile - 80 m 2;
• sewerage pipe Ø110 m, length 5 m;
• crushed stone fraction 1.8–3.5 cm, approximately 9 m 3;
• corner for sewerage at an angle of 45 and 90º - 4 pcs.;
• plastic barrel with a volume of 220 l - 2 pcs.;
• coupling, flange - 2 pcs.;
• wooden peg - 10 pcs.;
• Y-shaped sewer tee - 4 pcs.;
• building level;
• drainage perforated pipe in the filter 5 m - 2 pcs.;
• epoxy two-component sealant - 1 pc.;
• glue for PVC - 1 pc.;
• water tape - 1 pc.

Of the tools you will need:

• Shovel.
• Electric jigsaw.
• Rake.

For cottage/small country house if used economically, standard plastic barrels will do. Installing such a cleaning system is easy. If you do not drain black drains into the sewer, then the septic tank will be unpretentious in maintenance. If the house has a toilet, then the sewer will have to be cleaned regularly, calling for sewage equipment.

For private houses permanent residence barrels will not be enough. For sewage, it is better to purchase plastic cubes / tanks / tanks. The process of their installation in the ground does not differ from the installation of barrels.

The distance of the septic tank from the house should not exceed 15 m. Too much distance will complicate the process of connecting the sewer to the house:

• there is a need for a large deepening of the pipeline;
• on the way to the septic tank, you will need to install a revision well.

The sewerage system from metal barrels does not require large financial investments And complex work by installation. To begin with, as in previous cases, you need to prepare a pit, and then install 2 barrels, each of which has a volume of at least 200 liters. Then pipes are installed for overflowing liquid from one barrel to another and a transition to the filtration fields / drainage well.

Each subsequent container must be located below the previous one in level.

The joints must be sealed, and the barrels must be insulated with foam. After that, the pit with a septic tank is filled up. Since, as mentioned above, metal barrels are short-lived, you need to be prepared for the fact that after 3-4 years they will need to be replaced.

Pipe laying

Scheme

The end of the second decade of the 21st century suggests that in a modern private house, including a dacha, a latrine is somewhat more technologically advanced than a modest wooden booth at the end of the site. It is not surprising, therefore, how advanced sewer systems have become today for country houses and materials for them. And all this is quite affordable and feasible for a home master when installing it yourself.

Any system for the removal and disposal of wastewater in a residential building, no matter how small, needs to build a diagram that will show the size of the system on a scale and help in the choice:

• type of plumbing and its location, including additional wastewater suppliers, such as, for example, a bathhouse;
• internal pipe routing;
• exit points sewer system from the building;
• passage of the sewer line outside the building;
• type of equipment and its location on the site;
• necessary to create a system of materials.

The diagram also displays pipe diameters, their connection options and other information that is necessary for assembling the internal and external components of the sewer system.

Types of sewer system

The most popular sewer systems today are based on the use of:

• cesspools;
• storage tanks;
• two-chamber septic tanks;
• septic tanks with filtration;
• septic tanks with biofilter;
• septic tanks with forced air supply.

Did you know?As archaeologists have established, the world's earliest outlines of sewerage systems, which appeared in Mesopotamia, are already almost five thousand years old. However, a sewer system resembling a modern one appeared in Ancient Rome in the 6th century BC.

The centuries-old method of sewage sewerage is simple and cheap. For the construction of a cesspool in the form of a well without a bottom, concrete rings, bricks and similar materials are needed.
Since the bottom of this well consists of bare soil, domestic liquid waste enters through the well onto it, seeps out and begins to be cleaned. The more solid fractions of these wastes are retained in the pit and precipitate. When a lot of them accumulate in the well, cleaning is required.

This system operates reliably and justifies its existence if the volume of drains from the house does not exceed a cubic meter per day. This amount allows the microorganisms in the soil to cope with the processing of organic elements and thereby purify the water entering the soil through the bottom of the well.

If this volume is exceeded, the water no longer has time to be purified and begins to pollute The groundwater. It makes sense to build a cesspool if the cottage is not visited big amount people only on weekends. In any case, this primitive type of sewage is becoming less and less popular with suburban homeowners today.

A container for receiving waste waste installed near the house can be plastic, brick, concrete, metal, provided that this container is hermetically sealed.

This is especially true for land plots where the groundwater level is high. A hermetically sealed tank will protect both the soil and groundwater from pollution. The only inconvenience of this system is the dependence on frequent calls of vacuum trucks, which is why the cost of its operation is quite high.

This device consists of two tanks, the first of which is equipped with a sealed bottom, and the second is not equipped, being covered from below with a layer of sand and gravel mixture.

Did you know?The all-round genius of Leonardo da Vinci even invented the flush toilet in 1516. But even the French king could not bring the revolutionary idea to life, because then there was no water supply and sewerage at all.

Effluent flows into the first tank, where solid organic matter sinks, fatty particles rise up, and partially purified water is located in the middle.

Both volumes are interconnected by a pipe with a slight slope towards the second tank. Through it, the water, which has already become somewhat cleaner, flows into the second tank. And there it, passing through the sand-gravel mixture, and also through the soil, is additionally cleaned.
It is clear that in the first compartment, which is a sump, masses of waste gradually accumulate, in order to eliminate which it is necessary to resort to the services of sewers.

But it is recommended to equip the second tank only when there is at least a meter distance from its bottom, filled with a mixture of crushed stone and sand, to groundwater. Moreover, this sand-gravel mixture is required to be changed every five years.

It consists of a tank divided into several sections, connected to each other by slightly inclined pipes. As a rule, such a tank is manufactured at the factory.

The first tank is used for settling liquid waste. From it, partly clarified water flows into another compartment of the tank. And there, anaerobic bacteria that decompose organic elements make the water even cleaner, after which it flows into the third tank.
And from it, through the ground, water reaches filtration fields specially created from a sand-gravel mixture, where it is cleaned up to 80% and discharged into special ditches or containers. This method of treating liquid waste is only feasible where there is a large area of ​​land.

After all, only from the filtration fields to the house or source of drinking water, the distance should be at least 30 m. Plus, the filtration sites themselves occupy a lot of space, although they are underground. In addition, groundwater should in this case rise no higher than 3 m.

This type of cleaning device is different in that it can be used on land plots where the water table is high. It is a tank consisting of four sections connected to each other by pipes with a slight slope.

In the first tank, the effluent settles and flows into another compartment in the form of partially purified water. There, the water is further purified by means of anaerobic microorganisms and, already in a more clarified form, is sent to the third compartment-separator, and from there to the fourth.
And there it is already being processed by aerobic bacteria. They need a constant supply of fresh air, which comes here with the help of a pipe that is brought out to a height of half a meter. Thanks to the treatment with these bacteria, the water reaches a purity of up to 95% and is quite suitable for watering plants, washing a car and other household needs.

This method of cleaning sewage is most in demand in country houses with people permanently living there, since bacteria need a continuous supply of liquid waste, without which they die. And while bacteria can be easily added to the system through the toilet, it will take about two weeks for them to fully restore their full activity.

This installation with the help of electricity significantly activates the treatment of wastewater. She does this by means of forced atmospheric air injection, for which an electric pump and an air distributor are used.

This type of cleaning device can consist of one tank divided into three compartments, and of three different tanks connected to each other by means of inclined pipes.

Primarily treated effluents from the first compartment are poured into the aerotank, which is the second section. There is aerobic sludge, supplemented by plants and microorganisms. It is they who need a forced supply of fresh air.

After that, the already more purified liquid, together with the sludge, is poured into the third tank, where, after settling, it undergoes better purification, and the sludge that has settled in the sediment is returned to the aerotank with the help of a pump.
Forced air serves as an effective catalyst for the process, as a result of which the water is purified much faster and more efficiently.

And although the installation consumes a little electricity, nevertheless it needs the mains, which is partly its disadvantage. The functioning of this system also requires continuous residence in the house of one of the household members.

How to install a sewer with your own hands

With a high-quality scheme of the future sewer system and with the presence of all necessary materials you can go directly to its phased construction.

There are three stages, which include:

• installation of an internal sewer system;
• laying pipes outside the home;
• construction of treatment facilities.

Video: house sewer

Piping and riser

Indoor wiring includes horizontally placed pipes connecting plumbing to a vertically standing pipe, which is a riser. And it is connected to the highway, which brings sewage to the outside.

Ideally, it is desirable to match the installation of a sewer system with the construction of a house, but it is quite realistic to assemble the wiring located inside in an already built house, especially if it is small.

In doing so, the following requirements must be adhered to:

1. Since wastewater from plumbing fixtures is drained by gravity, the pipes that go from them to the riser must be laid with a certain slope.
2. Sanitary equipment must be separated from pipelines by water seals in the form of siphons, which are a curved pipe with water constantly in it, which does not allow odors to penetrate from the sewer into the premises.
3. The pipe connecting the toilet to the riser should not exceed 1 m.
4. The intra-house sewer system needs ventilation, for which the riser is brought out with a slight elevation above the roof.

Important!The toilet bowl must be connected to the horizontal wiring in its lowest part on the floor.

Pipe laying

If piping is carried out in an already built house, then there are three ways to lay them:

• with the help of digging, ditches are made in the walls, into which pipes are hidden;
• lay them on the floor;
• fastened to the walls with clamps.

The pipeline is assembled, starting from the riser and ending with plumbing. The main thing when distributing horizontal pipes is to establish the required angle of inclination.

The larger the pipe, the smaller the angle should be. For example, with a pipe diameter of 50 mm, one end of its meter-long segment should be 30 mm higher than the second, and with a diameter of 200 mm, this elevation is only 7 mm.

Video: wiring sewer pipes At first glance, it seems that the greater the slope of the pipeline, the better the drains will flow through it. However, in reality, excessive slope causes the water to roll down the pipe too quickly, and the more solid parts of the drains do not keep up with it and linger in the pipeline.

Installation and installation of the riser

With the installation of an intra-house collector in the form of a riser, the installation of an internal sewer system begins. In its lower part, the riser is connected to a pipe that passes through the foundation and leads the drains out, and at the top it is crowned with ventilation towering above the roof.

Important! The best option when there is only one riser for the whole house.

Installation and installation of the riser are made in the following sequence:

1. On the wall, at the place where the future riser passes, it is necessary to draw its axis with a pencil. If desired, a recess is made in the wall, with a width and depth slightly exceeding the diameter of the riser pipe. For external fastening of the pipe to the wall, clamps and brackets are used. Fasteners should be installed under the sockets connecting the pipes, the distance between the fasteners should not exceed 4 m.
2. Then it is necessary to carry out a preliminary assembly of the riser and attach it to the wall in order to check whether all dimensions have been correctly observed, taking into account the fittings for connecting the horizontal part of the system. Installation locations are defined here. fasteners if external mounting of the riser on the wall is provided. In this case, it should be borne in mind that the pipe cannot be installed close to the wall, the clearance between them must be at least 3 cm.
3. Having eliminated all errors in the installation of pipes, the riser is assembled with the help of seals and fastened with clamps, if external fastening is provided.
4. Next, you need to connect the riser to the pipe that leads the drains out. And the upper end of the riser can be connected to a fan pipe that rises above the roof.

Video: tips for installing sewer risers

Used for ventilation of sewerage systems, fan pipes connect the internal system with external environment helping:

• remove harmful and foul-smelling gases that are formed in the sewer system into the atmosphere;
• maintain the required pressure within the system.

For all their usefulness, fan pipes are not at all obligatory in all housing constructions without exception. In a small one-story country house, where the volume of wastewater is small, it is quite possible to do without this device. But in large houses, two or more floors, with a considerable number of residents, fun devices are certainly necessary.

They work on the principle of suction of atmospheric air into the sewer system when the air inside it is rarefied. In this they are helped by vacuum valves, which just let in atmospheric air when its pressure drops in the system, but they prevent the gases accumulating in the system from escaping to the outside.
Fan pipes with vacuum valves are installed on the roofs of the building, where they usually rise 20 cm above the roof. Sometimes this ventilation is installed in attic spaces buildings.

The sewer outlet is a pipe system that is placed under the foundation of the house and serves as a continuation of the riser. It is an intermediate link between the intra-house collector and outer part sewer system.

The most difficult point in its device is the exit to the outside under the foundation or through it for connection with the external pipeline.

The outlet equipment requires pipes of the same diameter as the riser, as well as bends that transfer the vertical pipeline to horizontal position, in which it is displayed through the foundation to the outside.

The external sewerage network starts from the outlet emerging from the foundation and goes to cleaning device, where she delivers liquid effluents from home.

For the construction of an off-site sewerage site, the following rules should be followed:

• the external pipeline should be located at such a depth that it does not freeze in winter;
• if it is not possible to dig a deep trench, the pipe must be insulated;
• every ten meters on straight sections of the pipeline and on its turns, it is necessary to install inspection wells.

Except for digging a trench to a non-freezing depth, pipe laying does not require much effort:

1. First, the trench is prepared, consisting in the required depth and inclination towards the cleaning device.
2. A 10-cm layer of a mixture of sand and clay is poured onto its bottom.
3. A pipe is placed on top of this layer.
4. The gap between it and the walls of the trench is also filled with this mixture.
5. The trench is backfilled with previously excavated soil.
6. The landscape disturbed by these operations is being restored.

Ancient cesspools without a bottom are now used less and less. Instead, storage and cleaning devices are used. The first of these is a large reservoir that is hermetically sealed, as a result of which its contents do not come into contact with the surrounding soil.

Video: choosing a septic tank for a private house

This component of the suburban sewage system is most rationally used in areas with a high level of groundwater, as well as in country houses and cottages, which are visited infrequently and by a small number of people.

If the country house is large, equipped with many types of plumbing and constantly populated by a large number of residents, then a septic tank with soil aftertreatment of wastewater or with forced aeration is necessary.

Device

The accumulative type of sewer system works very simply: liquid effluents enter the tank and accumulate in it, without any contact with the surrounding soil. After the tank is completely filled with sewage, it is necessary to resort to the services of sewers to remove them.

As storage tanks, both large prefabricated plastic tanks and independently made of brick, concrete, concrete rings or iron barrels welded together are used.
Different types of septic tanks are more complex. They consist of several sections, in the first of which the solid elements of the wastewater precipitate, undergoing anaerobic treatment by microorganisms, and the partially purified water flows into the next section, where it is purified using various ways filtration.

The choice of one or another type of septic tank is determined by the level of groundwater on the site, the size of the site itself, as well as the house, the number of permanent residents in it and the plumbing devices that they use.

Construction

For the construction of a storage tank, you should:

1. Dig a pit.
2. Install a concrete base in it.
3. Build a brick wall around it, providing a hole for the sewer pipe in its upper part. On top of the concrete cover there should be another hole for the sewer hose, which at all other times should be tightly closed.
4. Instead of brick, concrete rings or welded metal rings can be used.

Video: construction of a septic tank For the construction of different types of septic tanks, concrete rings, metal containers, eurocubes and other plastic tanks are used.

They are mounted differently, but their installation is largely similar:

1. First you need to dig a pit, which should be about half a meter larger in length and width than the container installed in it.
2. Then the bottom of the pit should be leveled and covered with a 2-centimeter layer of sand.
3. Concrete and plastic containers require concreting of the base.
4. After that, you need to install the tank.
5. The installed tank must be connected to pipes, through one of which sewage flows, and purified water comes out of the other.
6. Then, if necessary, it is possible to attach elements of additional purification of water with the help of soil.
7. You should also install hatches.
8. And finally, you need to fill the container with previously excavated soil.

Alternatives

If someone does not want or is not yet able to install a sewer system in his country house or dacha, he has the opportunity to do without it, using dry closets. They are autonomous devices that do not need to be tied to the sewerage system.

Currently, there are many types of such toilets, but the most popular among them are:

Peat, as it is easy to understand from the name, use special peat with bioactivators to compost waste products. In liquid, special solutions are used that accelerate the processing of waste products.

And electric, the most expensive, separate waste into solid and liquid fractions, the first of which are then dried, and the second are disposed of.

With the seeming complexity of this process, installing a sewerage system in a house with your own hands is quite within the power of a home master. With a properly drawn up scheme of the future system, the availability of materials and a great desire to realize what was planned, success, as practice shows, almost always comes.

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The coziness and comfort of a country house, a private household, a country cottage cannot be imagined without an efficient, well-functioning sewer system.

Planning, arranging and maintaining the drain complex in proper condition is the object of constant close attention of the owners of individual real estate.

Understanding all the fundamental principles of construction and maintenance of the waste mass drain, the design of the main components and assemblies of the system, conduct sewage in a private house not difficult with my own hands. This results in significant cost savings Supplies and remuneration of skilled workers.

Each home master who created such a difficult task with his own hands functional system for your own home autonomous sewerage, automatically becomes an indispensable specialist in its maintenance.

On construction market Moscow and the region, there are many companies for the arrangement of water supply and sewer works"Full construction". The Moscow region positions a different price range - for a small country house, the cost is in the range of 20-30 thousand rubles. For a building of medium size and with tenants up to 6 people, a drain will cost 50-60 thousand rubles. The equipment of the drain system of a large 2-3-storey cottage with more than 12 residents can pull 200-300 thousand rubles and more.

So, how to design and implement a sewerage device in a private house that will work for decades without failures and emergencies? How to plan everything yourself, while getting a savings of 50% of the total costs? This will be discussed further in our article.

Drain design

Before starting all work, it is necessary to carefully consider the design of the entire system as a whole, as well as the composition of all its components. It is best to put your vision of the design on paper.

The drawn project will always be in sight, helping to take into account important details. Working on the drawing will allow you to plan a compact arrangement of pipes and take into account the structural features of the building.

In the project, it is important to take into account the location of each plumbing unit, identify ways to lay pipelines to the equipment, calculate the required number of fittings, pipes, and materials.

Specific sections of the engineering network to be laid must be designated separately, having calculated the length of the pipes and their diameters. When purchasing materials, this information will be very useful. The sewerage scheme in a private house will be a reliable help in its construction.

The design process involves the arrangement of internal and external schemes for the withdrawal of waste water.

When laying internal sewerage, the following are installed:

• fan pipe
• central riser
• Pipes for shower, bath, toilet

External sewerage in a private house is responsible for the removal of external wastewater. It is arranged for supply to a septic tank or to a station deep cleaning. The last construction will have a high cost. Available near home central system sewerage system, the task of arranging the external outlet of waste water is greatly simplified, and considerable money savings are achieved.

To simplify installation, as well as to reduce costs, at the design stage, it is necessary to arrange the premises of the house associated with water consumption as compactly as possible. Thanks to this arrangement, the laying of pipes inside the house is greatly simplified.

An important tip is that the design process must begin with a riser. Only by determining the channel for the passage of the riser and the collector pipe, it is possible to outline the further location of all other constituent parts of the system.

• the best material for laying sewers is polypropylene or PVC pipes, tees, fittings. They are much cheaper, but much more durable than cast iron products;
• when laying drain networks, all turns in them can be mounted using two plastic elbows with a 45 degree bend. The design greatly minimizes the chance of blockages that are common with a single 90-degree bend;
• for gray kitchen drains, as well as for removing used water from the bathroom, PVC pipes with a diameter of 50 millimeters are used;
• waste toilet pipes should be at least 100-110 millimeters in diameter. The total length of such pipes should be no more than 1000 millimeters.

Piping and piping

Installation work during the laying of pipelines of the drain complex is considered the most labor-intensive in construction. Equipping the house with their own hands, it will be difficult for one owner to cope with the entire amount of work. Therefore, it is recommended to have one or two assistants from among family members, neighbors, acquaintances. The speed of work and the quality of sewerage wiring will only benefit from this.

Currently, the trading network and construction Internet portals offer a wide variety of plastic pipes, revisions, tees, elbows. With the help of rubber cuffs, they connect without problems and function perfectly without letting water through. At the same time, the joints are processed with special construction silicone sealants. In places where pipe communications pass through walls, sleeves are installed on top of them to prevent damage.

An indicative list of tools that will be needed when laying sewer pipes:

• Automatic sealant gun
• Screwdriver Set
• Hammer 200 g
• Electric perforator
• Pencil
• Level
• Bulgarian with a long cord
• Hacksaw for cutting plastic and metal

Small mistakes are always possible in such works. In order to detect leaks or defects in fittings, ready system sewers must be tested before commissioning clean water. Only after making sure of the reliability of its condition, it is possible to connect it to the existing equipment of the dwelling. Storm sewers can be combined at the exit of the house with an internal drain.

Related video:

Slope and release

An important factor in the installation of drain structures is the correct slope. Modern building codes suggest the slope of systems where there is no fluid pressure to be produced taking into account the diameter of the pipelines. 50 mm pipes should have a slope of 3 centimeters per meter of their length. Pipes with a diameter of 100-110 millimeters can have a slope of 2 centimeters in their length. Based on this, different points of the horizontal pipes should be at different heights.

To prevent non-docking of external wiring with internal, installation begins with the release of the sewer. The outlet is the place in the pipeline where the internal riser is connected to the pipe leading to the septic tank. It is laid deep in the ground through the foundation, below the freezing level of the soil of the region.

In extreme cases, if conditions do not allow and the outlet is higher, it must be very carefully insulated. Otherwise, in winter frosts, the pipe with drained water will freeze and create problems.

Related video:

Cesspool and septic tank for wastewater treatment

The most inexpensive way to arrange the withdrawal of used water from a private house is a cesspool. It is made at the rate of 0.5-0.8 m³ per person. The bottom of the pit is filled with concrete. The side walls are lined with bricks, blocks, can be poured with concrete. To prevent sewage from entering drinking water sealing is carried out on top of the masonry bituminous mastic.

Sewer wiring is laid in a trench 1 meter deep. The ditch is blocked wooden floor, which is poured on top liquid bitumen and an inspection hatch with a cover is installed.

The cesspool should be located in a convenient place accessible for sewage transport. This is necessary so that as the pit is filled, it must be cleaned. In all settlements there is a service that, at the request of the owners of private houses, sends special machines for cleaning cesspools.

When deciding to create a sewer design, the owner should familiarize himself with the full list of special devices that are widely available on the market. building materials. Plastic septic tanks, storage tanks, multi-chamber sewer systems - these devices facilitate the installation of the drain complex, ensuring the reliability and durability of its service.

The septic tank has more robust design, longer service life, convenient to use. Its task is to clarify wastewater and bring them into the ground. A septic tank is usually made up of several sections, depending on the expected volume of water flow in the house. According to the norms, it should be located at a distance of 20 m from a residential building. The drainage installation is mounted at a distance sufficient to prevent erosion of the soil, the foundation and the ingress of sewage into basements and wells.

The drainage system should be located below the drinking water intake level, no closer than 50 m from the water intake point. In the absence of groundwater, a filtration well is arranged instead of a drainage system. It is laid out of bricks, blocks or poured with concrete in the formwork. From above, the device is closed with a lid and covered with molten bitumen for sealing.

A ready-made septic tank can be purchased at trading network, on Internet portals. Often, plastic containers, concrete rings are used for this purpose. It is important to remember: bringing water into drainage system the pipe must be laid at a depth of at least one and a half meters. The depth of the sewerage will prevent it from freezing in the winter. The septic tank is cleaned at least once a year. Bottom sediments turn into minerals, which are successfully used as fertilizers for the garden.

Filter well

The filter well is installed with low water consumption - up to 1 m³. A sealed housing is made, the bottom is filled with some loose filter material: crushed stone, slag, gravel, granular screenings. Such a device is located at a distance of 50 m from the water intake. Its bottom is located at least one meter above the groundwater level.

It is advisable to use modern technological materials when arranging sewage for a country house. Good quality polyvinyl chloride or polypropylene pipes are best suited here. Such materials will serve for decades, delighting the inhabitants of the house with their functionality, reliability, and smooth operation. If you need to replace small parts, they can be easily changed without compromising the family budget.

Thus, the rhetorical question of how to make a sewer in a private house or cottage with your own hands is an attractive topic that every property owner can do for himself, choosing the best option from a variety of designs.

Having understood the ups and downs of construction, having correctly installed the sewerage system, the owner of the mansion will simply be able to independently resolve all emerging issues throughout the entire long period its operation, without involving specialists from specialized companies for this.

When designing and installing an internal sewerage system for a private house, no one is immune from mistakes that can lead to unpredictable consequences, from the appearance of an unpleasant odor to the complete inoperability of the system. Consider in this article the concept of internal sewage in a private house: design and installation rules + analysis of common mistakes that occur in the process of all this.

General characteristics of a modern internal sewerage system

Today, the construction of private suburban housing is experiencing a real boom. Therefore, there was a need to create a convenient and modern system sewerage that I could install a common person who does not have a construction background. Such a system should have good performance, as the number of plumbing fixtures producing domestic waste has increased significantly. Indeed, with the advent of automatic washing machines, dishwashers, jacuzzis and showers, the water consumption of an ordinary household has increased to 200 liters per person per day.

The increase in the number of plumbing fixtures leads to a significant complication of the pipeline networks themselves. Fortunately, today PVC pipes are used for sewerage installation, which are supplied with auxiliary fittings, with the help of which the installation of the pipeline becomes inconvenient. harder to manufacture crafts from children's constructor. All these parts are supplied with o-rings, which can be easily replaced if necessary.

Internal sewerage is a set of plastic pipes and fittings for their connection, which serve to drain wastewater from plumbing fixtures. The devices themselves are equipped with siphons necessary to prevent the penetration of odor into the premises. Pipe laying is subject to strict rules, non-compliance with which is fraught with disruption of the entire system.

Pipe laying rules for the construction of internal sewerage

As the central outlet channel in the entire sewerage system of the house is a riser. It may be one for the whole house. If the house is too large or the bathrooms are located at a considerable distance from each other, then two or more risers are made. They are vertical installed pipes that start in the basement and end on the roof. The lower part of the riser is connected to an inclined pipe of the same or larger diameter, which exits to the outside into a collection tank for wastewater or a wastewater treatment plant. The upper part of the riser rises above the roof by at least 0.5 m. It is open or equipped with a check valve. For what it is necessary - we will consider further. All supplies leading from plumbing fixtures are connected to risers.

Hydrodynamics of liquids in pipes

A pipe is a cylinder inside which water moves. When the pipe is completely filled with water, a piston effect occurs. This means that at the top of the water plug, the pressure drops sharply, while at the bottom, on the contrary, it rises. In a situation where there is an explosive drain from the toilet bowl, the resulting vacuum is able to suck all the water out of the siphons. This is fraught with the appearance of smell in the rooms. On the contrary, in the direction of the movement of the liquid, excess pressure arises, which is capable of pushing sewage out of the devices below the toilet bowl.

Ignoring the laws of hydrodynamics leads to two common mistakes in the design and installation of sewers. The first mistake is the failure of the ventilation device. The background pipe running from the riser to the roof not only removes unpleasant odors, but also serves as a pressure compensator in the system. After all, if it is present, the reduced pressure above the water piston will not suck water out of the siphons, but will ensure the flow of air into the system from the atmosphere, which again equalizes the pressure.

The second common mistake is that all plumbing fixtures are connected through supply pipes to the riser below the toilet. This is unacceptable, as it will certainly cause sewage to be poured into the sink or shower during flushing. Similar problems arise when the supply pipes are longer than allowed for them. In order to avoid such troubles, it is necessary to formulate some important rules for installation of internal sewerage.

Rules for the device of intra-house sewerage, the violation of which is unacceptable

Attention! Violation of the following rules may lead to a serious disruption of the internal sewer system or an emergency.

• The connection of the toilet bowl to the riser must be carried out separately from other plumbing devices.
• All other elements of plumbing are included in the system above the point of attachment of the toilet. Several devices can be located on one supply pipe, if their performance allows.
• Any inlet pipe must be no smaller in diameter than the largest diameter inlet from the appliance.
• The outlet from the toilet bowl has a diameter of 100 mm, therefore, the riser should not be thinner than it.
• The toilet bowl is installed at a distance of no more than 1 m from the riser, and the rest of the devices are not further than 3 m.
• If the house has a supply pipe longer than 3 m, then it should not be thinner than 70 mm. An eyeliner that is longer than 5 m is already made from a 100 mm pipe.

If for some reason it is not possible to increase the diameter of the supply pipes, then there is a way to get around this rule. To do this, it is necessary to bring the end of such a pipe to the roof and provide it with a vacuum valve or loop it on the riser above all other devices.

Quantitative characteristics of the parameters of laying sewer pipes

exist important nuances, observance of which will ensure the operability of the sewer in the optimal mode:

• The slope of all horizontal pipes depends on the diameter of their section. The regulations say that a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm must be lowered by 3 cm for each linear meter of length, having a diameter of 100 to 110 mm by 2 cm per meter. Pipes with a diameter of more than 160 mm can be tilted no more than 0.8 cm per linear meter.
• An indicator such as a height difference for a toilet bowl should be 1 m, and for other devices 3 m. Exceeding these parameters should be accompanied by the organization of ventilation at the ends of the corresponding supply lines.

Another common mistake is incorrect design corners. If you make 90-degree angles, then as a result of the rebound, a blockage of waste will form in this place, and the pipe will quickly clog. For this reason, it is necessary to create a smooth flow of water at the corners. To do this, use shaped parts having an angle of inclination of 135 degrees.

The fourth mistake is the conclusion fan pipe not on the roof, but in the general house ventilation. Such a device will create an unforgettable “aroma” throughout the house, which can only be eliminated by redoing the entire system.

In order to not hear the sounds of water moving through the pipes, it is necessary to arrange sound insulation. For this, the pipes are wrapped mineral wool and placed in boxes drywall sheets. For timely and convenient maintenance work, pipes are equipped with inspection hatches every 15 m. The same applies to all turns.

Fifth mistake. In the pipe connecting the internal sewerage and the septic tank is not installed check valve. In this case, when the outdoor disposal units overflow, the water may rise up the pipes and flood the basement.

Siphon connection errors

The connection of any plumbing fixture to the sewer is carried out through siphons that look like the letter U. This curved shape allows water to constantly be in it. It forms a hydro-barrier and prevents the smell from penetrating into the room. However, this system stops working when some errors are made. Main mistake– lack of ventilation. In this case, the vacuum simply sucks the water out of the siphon, allowing odors to roam freely around the house. Another reason for the appearance of an unpleasant odor is the banal evaporation of water from the siphon. This occurs when the device is used infrequently. You just need to plug a rarely used device with a rag.

What calculations are made when planning internal sewage

Work on the design of internal sewage must be carried out strictly in accordance with the above rules. In addition, to comply with them, certain calculations are required:

• On general scheme indicate the places where this or that device will be located. Its distance from the riser, the diameter of the supply pipe, the mounting option and connection to the sewer are thought out in advance. At the same time, the required amount of materials is calculated.
• Determined with the type of the sewer system itself. They are forceful and spontaneous. Usually, for simplicity, a system is used in which water flows under the influence of the gravity of the Earth. The main thing here is to calculate the slope of the pipes according to the rules outlined above.
• According to the technical characteristics of each sanitary appliance, its one-time flow is calculated. The thickness of the inlet pipe depends on this indicator. In most cases, for all devices, except for the toilet, a 50 mm pipe is suitable
• Calculate the most optimal place for mounting the riser. Most often these are toilets. If there are two of them in the house, in different vertical planes, then it is better to make two risers.
• It is necessary to calculate the sewerage scheme in such a way as to minimize the number of available rotation angles. This will greatly reduce the risk of blockages.

The above calculations, performed correctly, will make the sewerage system the most efficient and efficient even when overloads occur.

What is needed for the construction of an internal sewerage system

As mentioned above, the main thing in the sewerage device inside the house is to draw up its detailed drawing, indicating all the devices and the dimensions of the elements. For installation, sewer pipes made of polyvinyl chloride are used. The device of their ends is such that two pipes can be connected by placing the end of one in the socket of the other. For risers, pipes with a diameter of 100 mm are used, and for other devices, 50 mm. A corrugated pipe is used to connect to an external sewage system, due to its better resistance to soil movements.

From the tool is usually used: a saw for cutting plastic pipes, sharp knife and rubber mounting seals. Pipes are cut with a saw, cuts are leveled with a knife and chamfers are made. Rubber seals are inserted into the sockets. Various fittings are used to connect pipes to the system:

• Knees or bends that are needed to decorate corners. They are produced with a bend of 45 and 90 degrees. Their ends are also equipped with sockets with seals to create tight connections.
• If it is necessary to connect cut pipes of the same diameter, transitional bends are used.
• Tees various kinds are fittings for organizing pipe branches.
• Transition couplings are needed in order to create transitions between pipes of different thicknesses.

A common mistake when installing plastic sewer pipes is ignoring their heating. In order for the pipes to fit easier and more tightly into each other and into the connecting fittings, the sockets must be heated in hot water.

The sequence of work during the installation of internal sewerage

Installation of the sewer system inside the house is carried out in the following order:

First, risers are installed, bringing their ends to the roof and to the basement. They should pass in the immediate vicinity of the toilets. In the basement, they are connected to an inclined pipe that goes out into the septic tank, and the upper ends are left open or provided with check valves.

Secondly, they bring carts from toilet bowls to the riser. They must be separate.

Thirdly, they are connected to the risers from other devices above the entrances of the toilet bowls.

Fourthly, siphons are installed on all devices.

Fifthly, they connect the siphons with eyeliners.

In conclusion, let us say that a properly designed and collected sewerage everything will work for her for a long time without major problems.

How to properly make a sewer in a private house so that it lasts for many years? It is desirable to involve professionals in this issue, but if you have some skills, you can do everything yourself. Also, despite the fact that the basic requirements for the sewer system are individual, it is necessary to involve specialists in its design. Only compliance with all technological and technical standards will provide a private house with high-quality drainage.

What is the sewer system?

How to make a sewer in a private house, taking into account all the requirements normative documents in the construction industry? For a one-story or two-story building, it is necessary to make a system that will consist of the following components:

• Ready or homemade septic tank (cesspool). It is intended for storage and filtration of drains. Settled outside the home and has a rather complex scheme.
• Pipes for laying external sewerage. Any home septic tank must be connected to the building, which is carried out using these elements. Such pipes tolerate temperature extremes well, are distinguished by increased strength and wear resistance, which allows them not to collapse under the pressure of water and soil.
• Pipes and fittings for domestic sewerage. It consists of elements having a diameter of 40 to 110 mm. Fittings are also necessary for arranging the sewerage system in the house, since they are used to draw up bends, revisions and turns.
• Thermal insulation for pipes. Do-it-yourself sewerage in a private house is impossible without modern heaters. With their help, pipes are insulated, which prevents them from freezing. The installation of pipe thermal insulation should be carried out not only outside the building, but also inside in unheated premises(basement, basement of the building).

Types of septic tanks

When installing a sewer for a country house, what to choose as a septic tank? There are many options for the device of this element of the system.

Cesspool without a bottom

The sewerage device in a country house with the help of a cesspool has its advantages:

• small cost. The cesspool is a kind of well that has no bottom. Its walls can be made of monolithic or prefabricated reinforced concrete, brick;
• simple operating principle. After the effluent enters cesspool pure water seeps into the soil, and solid waste settles on its bottom;
• no difficulties during the installation of the structure. There is no need to carry out bulk earthworks.

To the disadvantages of this constructive scheme It is believed that it is suitable only for those houses where the average daily volume of effluents does not exceed 1 cubic meter. m. Otherwise, the surrounding soil and groundwater are contaminated with household waste.

sealed tank

Do-it-yourself sewerage of a country house can be formed from hermetic tanks of large volume, which are made of plastic, metal or other materials. You can buy them ready-made or make your own. In this case, a sewerage project in a private house involves the use of prefabricated ones. The bottom of such a septic tank will be formed from monolithic concrete, and the lid is made of metal.

The disadvantage of this design is that the container will fill up over time. After the accumulation of a certain amount of waste, it is necessary to call a special machine that pumps them out. The advantage of a hermetic tank is that it can be used in the presence of a high level of groundwater.

Single chamber septic tank

The installation of sewerage in a private house very often occurs using a single-chamber septic tank. It is a cesspool, the bottom of which is filled with rubble by 30 cm and sand by the same thickness. The advantage of this design is that the water, penetrating through the so-called "filtration field" is cleared by approximately 50%.

Two-chamber septic tank

How to properly sewer to prevent contamination of the site with household waste? In this case, it is recommended to use a system of overflow settling wells.

The structure of such a sewerage system in a private house includes two containers. One of them is hermetic, the other is without a bottom, but sprinkled with a layer of rubble and sand.

Waste from the house goes into the first container. After a while they settle there. All solid particles sink to the bottom of the septic tank, and fat rises to the top. The waste that is in the middle is relatively clean. It is they who fall into the well without a bottom. This happens through a pipe that connects two containers and is placed at a slight slope at the level of 2/3 of the height of the septic tanks.

Over time, the first well collects too much waste that needs to be pumped out. This should be done once every 5-6 months.

DIY septic tank

What is the easiest way to make a septic tank?

How can you make a sewer in a private house with your own hands so that it works as efficiently as possible? First of all, you need to take care of the septic tank. For arrangement local sewerage in a private house, you should follow these instructions:

1. Digging a pit. The dug hole should have a size that is slightly larger than the dimensions of the tanks. It is necessary to rely on the fact that a layer of rubble and sand should be poured at the bottom of the septic tank, and a clay castle should be equipped on the sides. If the sewer for a country house is foreseen for a small number of people (1-3), then the foundation pit can be dug manually. Otherwise, it is recommended to use the services of an excavator.
2. Foundation arrangement. When constructing a sewerage system in a private house, the bottom of the dug hole must be leveled, then covered with sand and compacted. On the site where the first tank (sump) will be installed, waterproofing must be laid. For this purpose, clay or a concrete disk should be used.
3. Installation of containers. Do-it-yourself sewerage in a private house should consist of two separate tanks, which are formed from concrete rings. In order for the system to work effectively, all joints must be sealed without fail. Such a sewerage scheme in a private house will prevent runoff from entering the soil and groundwater.
4. Arrangement of the bottom of containers. This sewerage scheme provides that the bottom of the first tank must be sealed. To do this, it is concreted, and the top is treated with bituminous mastic and a layer of roofing material is laid. Also, to build an efficient sewer system, the bottom of the second well is covered with rubble or pebbles.
5. Overflow design. In order for the sewerage system of a country house to work correctly, the installed tanks must be connected to each other with an overflow pipe. It is installed at a distance of 1.5 m from the bottom. A T-fitting is also mounted on the pipe. It allows the intake of the liquid itself, which is separated from the organic matter.
6. Cover installation. For a local sewage system for a private house, reinforced concrete slabs are mounted on top of each tank.
7. Installation of hatches and ventilation. In order to avoid an unpleasant smell on the site, a ventilation pipe is installed in the ceiling of the tanks. Also, each well is closed with hatches, which, if necessary, must be opened.

Pipe laying on the street

Should be carried out according to the following scheme:

1. Digging a trench. A small trench is made from the septic tank to the house. Its depth should be greater than the depth of soil freezing (water supply is also laid). When constructing a trench, it is necessary to ensure a slope from the house to the storage tanks for a good outflow of liquid (about 2 cm 1 m).
2. Pipe laying. How to sewer in a private house, which pipeline to choose? It is recommended to choose one that has a diameter of at least 110 mm.
3. Thermal insulation. If the pipes are laid shallow, then it is possible to prevent their freezing by warming.
4. Final stage. One end of the pipe is inserted through a concrete wall, carefully sealing the joints. Also, in order to carry out the installation of sewage in a private house with your own hands, you must not forget to leave a small hole in the foundation or basement at the stage of its construction. A pipe is inserted through it, after inserting a metal washer.

Internal Network Design Rules

The device of the internal network is considered an important step in the installation of sewers for a private house, how to do everything right? Do-it-yourself sewer wiring in a private house occurs with the installation of the following structural elements:

• riser. This is a central pipe with a diameter of 110 mm, which is installed in vertical position. It connects all existing circuits in the house together. For a small building, one riser is usually enough;
• . It is installed on the top of the riser. Such a pipe is necessary for the removal of accumulated gases to the environment;
• main branches. Pipes with a diameter of 50 mm are used to connect plumbing fixtures with a riser. This system does not have forced circulation, therefore, it is necessary to provide for drainage (3 cm per 1 m);
• supply pipes. Are applied to connection of releases of devices with highways;
• revisions. They are a tee, where one outlet is closed with a hatch. Audits are necessary for the performance of repair and maintenance work of various kinds. They are usually installed at all turns, branches, at the base and end of the riser.

If you adhere to this scheme for the construction of the sewer system, it will work efficiently and without failures.