≡× MENU

• Repair
• Repair 
• Interior Design
• About everything
• About plumbing

DIY concrete mixer from a 200 liter barrel. Instructions: how to make a concrete mixer from a barrel with your own hands. Homemade mixers in video version

A homemade concrete mixer made from a barrel can completely replace its factory counterpart and allow you to prepare a truly high-quality concrete mixture for construction. Its cost will not exceed 1000 rubles, and all materials can be found in a garage or scrap metal collection point. Now we will look at the details step by step instructions how to make a concrete mixer with your own hands, we will learn all the secrets of a simple task and build a high-quality construction tool in a few hours.

Parts and drawings of manual concrete mixer

First, let's look at what we need to make it. The main goal of our work is to build really cheap design at minimal cost, so we will use only publicly available tools and materials.

1. Barrel, aka “tub”. The simplest option is a 200-liter metal vessel, in which grain or feed is always stored in the country; a barrel for transporting petroleum products or chemicals is suitable. If you don’t have one at home, you can find one in a landfill or in any agricultural company (as a rule, they are thrown away after using oils or chemicals).
2. Thick-walled pipe with a diameter of 32 mm. We will need 2 pieces of 20 centimeters each, from which we will make bushings for the shaft. A manual concrete mixer will be without a drive and without bearings - this is much simpler and more reliable.
3. Axis. It had to be 150 centimeters long and with a diameter of 3 cm in order to fit tightly into the bushings. For smooth operation, they can be lubricated with grease.
4. Channel 60 mm. You need 2 pieces 1 meter long (these will be the supporting elements on which the entire structure rests) and 2 pieces 50 cm long - spacers for the main supports, giving the tool maximum stability.
5. Steering wheel from a KamAZ or other vehicle truck. A homemade manual concrete mixer should turn easily. The larger the steering wheel you find, the better and easier it will be to work with.
6. Loops. There will be a hatch in the middle of the barrel for filling building materials, it is best made on strong hinges that can withstand any load. The hatch handle can be made from anything, the best option is a regular one door knob welded to iron.
7. Metal square 20x20 mm. It is necessary for the manufacture of the “insides” of a concrete mixer from a barrel, the manufacturing process of which will be described below.

Actually, these are all the materials that we need. The general drawing of our simple concrete mixer will look something like this:

You also need standard processing tools: a welding machine (basic skills) and a grinder for cutting metal. Construction will take approximately 3-4 hours if all the “ingredients” are available.

The process of making a homemade concrete mixer with your own hands

Let's start with the barrel and its insides. We need to place it on the axis, center it and make elements inside that will mix concrete as efficiently as possible and make a homogeneous mixture suitable for construction work.

STEP 1. Using a welding machine or drill, you need to make 2 holes exactly in the center of the bottom and top of the tub, thread a 30 mm metal axle through the barrel and weld everything well so that the barrel is tightly attached to the shaft.

STEP 2. Using a grinder, cut a rectangle along the barrel (90x30 centimeters) - a place to fill the building materials. You cannot make a hatch that is too small, as it will be inconvenient to pour out the finished mixture. A large hole is also undesirable - it will significantly reduce the strength of the product.

STEP 3. We take a metal square and make several “blades” inside a homemade concrete mixer. One side is welded to the axle, the other to the wall of the barrel. 4-5 blades evenly distributed over the entire area of ​​the tub are enough.

STEP 4. We weld the cut out rectangle to the hinges, which, in turn, must be secured to the barrel to create an openable hatch. The lid lock can be made at your discretion, up to attaching a regular door hook. The main task of the lid is to prevent the mixture from falling out under its own weight, so everything must be secured firmly.

To make a manual concrete mixer with your own hands, you need to install it on a tripod, 1 meter high - optimal height for a 150-200 liter device. If you have the opportunity and desire, it is better to do it at an angle of 10-15 degrees - it will be easier to mix everything, but this is not necessary and will not affect the process significantly. Let's consider step by step process making the base.

STEP 1: We weld the frame. We take a 60 mm channel 1 meter long and weld a 50 cm long channel on one side - one support leg is ready. We weld the other support in the same way.

STEP 2: weld the bushings. A thick-walled pipe 20 cm long must be welded to the other edge of the channel. A metal axle will go into it.

STEP 3: We insert the axle into the bushings, weld thick metal washers on both ends - they will be retaining rings so that the shaft does not run away during the concrete preparation process. A do-it-yourself manual concrete mixer is already on a tripod and easily rotates along the axis; all that remains is to make a drive for it.

STEP 4: We weld the steering wheel (or its equivalent). A metal steering wheel or wheels must be welded to one edge of the axle, it makes no difference. The main thing is the large diameter of the circle, so that it is convenient to turn a full concrete mixer.

An electric drive for a concrete mixer will cost much more, so there is no point in spending a lot of money. Such a device should be completely sufficient for the needs of ordinary construction in a private house or country house. A manual concrete mixer made from a barrel has practically no service life, since the wearing parts are made of thick metal, and the bushings (provided correct use) will wear out for 5-7 years.

Do-it-yourself concrete mixer - operating tricks

The homemade design does all the work as the factory version, but it will have to be used a little differently to get maximum comfort. We'll give you a few useful tips, with the help of which a concrete mixer made from a barrel will become your favorite tool!

1. Periodically lubricate the bushings with grease. This will reduce friction and even a child will be able to spin the tub. If you don’t lubricate it for a long time, then you will soon have to make a concrete mixer out of a barrel again - the bushings or axle will wear out very quickly.
2. You can weld 1 wheel from each to the spacers. washing machine or a construction wheelbarrow if you don’t yet know how to make a concrete mixer that is easy to transport around the site.
3. The greater the angle of inclination, the easier it will be to handle the equipment. The maximum permissible angle is 45 degrees; you cannot do more, since the concrete will not be mixed well.
4. The engine for the concrete mixer (if necessary) can be made from a washing machine with a gear ratio of 1:8. The flywheel can be installed instead of the steering wheel.
5. During long-term storage, it would be better to lubricate the barrel with waste so that it lasts much longer.

We looked at how to make a concrete mixer from a barrel with your own hands using minimum costs and got the design for only 650 rubles(subject to using your own old barrel). A regular 200 liter manual concrete mixer will cost at least 6,000 rubles - the benefits are obvious.

Now we offer you to watch how to make a concrete mixer with your own hands from a barrel in the video and our machine in operation:

Reading time: 13 minutes. Published 12/04/2018

Lay paths on the site, make a screed or foundation for a house, garage or gazebo. Decorate the walls with tiles or arrange a sauna and swimming pool. For these and many other types of repair and finishing work in a country house or cottage, you need a concrete mixer that will mix the mortar.

By design, a concrete mixer is a drum-like container rotating on a metal truss, which is driven by a drive mechanism. Therefore, for an average amount of work, craftsmen suggest saving money on purchasing a unit and making it yourself.

Which type should I choose?

Main elements of a concrete mixer

When a summer resident or homeowner planning a renovation decides to make a homemade concrete mixer, first of all, he needs to understand that there are different designs of units that differ in operating principles and characteristics.

To decide what type of concrete mixer he wants to make, and what he will need to do in its manufacture, it is recommended to first pay attention to the main components of the product.

The concrete mixer has four of them:

• bed– a metal, wooden or composite truss onto which the remaining parts of the unit are attached. It can be made mobile by attaching 2 or 4 wheels to the legs to ensure greater mobility;
• pear or mixer– a drum-like container in which the components of the solution are with water, under the influence of the force of axial rotation;
• unloading device– various mechanisms for unloading the finished solution: a folding flap, a hermetically sealed lock on the bulb; an inclined lever or screw that tips or overturns the container;
• propulsion device (mechanical or power) and drive mechanism, which rotates the drum itself or (in some designs) the blades located inside the drum, with the help of which the solution is mixed to the desired consistency.

Reference. The drum and blade of the unit are made from different materials– metal, plastics or composites, differing in thickness and, accordingly, strength and weight. IN homemade structures concrete mixers, the function of a drum can be performed by barrels various types and dimensions, old milk cans or a piece of large diameter pipe welded on one or both sides. If the master has a welding machine at his disposal, both the pear and blades can be made himself from metal fittings and metal sheets.

Mechanical or electrical

Manual

Based on the type of propulsion system that causes the pear to rotate around its axis, all concrete mixers are divided into two classes - mechanical and electrical:

1. Mechanical. In its most primitive form, such a concrete mixer is a barrel mounted on a horizontal axis between two supports. Having attached a handle to the side, the barrel is rotated along its axis. In factory samples of manual concrete mixers, gear mechanisms with a molding gear and a ring ring are often used. The axis of rotation is removed from the inside of the drum, fixed to the frame and rotates freely. The gear is mounted on an axis and, when its teeth come into contact with the ring, it sets the “pear” in motion. Since when making a concrete mixer yourself, it can be problematic to select the necessary gear elements, craftsmen have come up with some “tricks” that allow you to replace these parts in the design of a homemade concrete mixer with simpler, but no less effective ones.
2. Electrical. An electric motor installed on a home-made concrete mixer greatly facilitates its operation for the master. Thanks to it, you won’t need to use any muscle force to mix the solutions, and when the concrete mixer is turned on, the pear will rotate smoothly and without jerking, which will allow you to achieve more uniform mixing, and therefore a better quality mixture. For a “household” concrete mixer, it is recommended to choose a motor with a power of 500-700 W - this will be enough for a 150-liter drum to rotate at a speed of 28 rpm. The mixture will not splash across the walls, but it will not harden and will retain its viscosity.

Important. With all its “advantages”, it has electric motor However, there are two drawbacks. The first of these is access to energy. Unlike its mechanical counterpart, an electric motor will not work without fuel or an electrical network. The second is an increase in the weight of the structure due to the weight of the engine. In principle, the engine can not be screwed onto the frame of the concrete mixer, and it can be made portable. This will, however, still mean that it will need to be moved from place to place and installed next to the unit.

Forced, gravitational or vibration

There are designs of concrete mixers in which the engine drives the drum itself, but with the help additional elements you can do more complex system, in which the drum will be stationary, and the blades, ridges or paddles located inside it will rotate. According to this indicator, construction mixers are divided into forced, gravitational and vibration types:

1. Forced action concrete mixer. Such concrete mixers are distinguished by a large pear, which is fixed on the farm without the possibility of rotation along the axis. Motor power is supplied through a drive to paddles or paddles rotating inside the drum, which mix the solution. Rotation of the blades requires high engine power (from 900 W) or serious physical strength, if the drive is manual.
2. Gravitational. For these concrete mixers, the drive mechanism is installed on a container, which is rotated by a running engine or the muscular power of the master. The solution is mixed on the lower half of the drum. The master can also make and weld fixed blades inside the container various configurations. Gravity concrete mixers are versatile - they are suitable for producing mortars of different consistencies, and the volume of the pear is calculated in such a way that the finished concrete or mortar is enough for the planned construction, installation or decoration in own home or at the dacha.
3. Vibrating. In a vibrating type concrete mixer, the mixing of components (even with a high density of invasive particles) occurs not through rotation, but due to a rod or other metal structure vibrating at a constant frequency, which is installed inside the container. The drum itself is tightly fixed to the frame trusses. To operate the installation, a powerful electric motor is used (for a pear of 20 liters, a vibration power unit of 1300 W is used), and a pulsating effect is created by a perforation drive. This mixing method provides high quality and the viscosity of the finished solution, but due to the specific components and high energy consumption, the manufacture and operation of such a concrete mixer will cost a pretty penny.

Types of concrete mixers in the photo

Most often, in a home workshop they prefer to make manual or mechanical concrete mixers gravitational type. They do not require particularly expensive components and are available in a variety of configurations. So, for example, for installation - therefore, making such a concrete mixer in a home workshop

Which volume should I choose?

To carry out various construction and finishing works, it is recommended to choose concrete mixers with bulbs of different volumes:

1. From 20 to 100 liters– this volume of pear will be sufficient to build a small structure or extension: veranda, garage mezzanine, gazebo. It is also enough to produce Finishing work Location on;
2. From 100 to 160 liters– used for the construction, repair or finishing of one-story buildings: houses, bathhouse extensions, isolated garages;
3. From 170 to 300 liters– semi-professional models that allow small construction teams to work in 2-3 shifts and mix concrete and mortars for the capital construction of buildings up to 3 floors in height.

Reference The working part of the container is about 70% of its internal surface. That is, it is recommended to fill it with water and dry mixture using the following proportion: 2/3 of the solution volume from the total volume of the drum capacity.

How to make a concrete mixer yourself at home

When the decision to build, decorate or renovate your own home or dacha has been made, and from the estimated amount of work it is obvious that purchasing a factory-made concrete mixer is not practical, craftsmen recommend making it yourself at the work site. To do this, you can use the design of several popular “homemade products”.

Hand made from a barrel

Scheme hand-held device

This is a forced-action concrete mixer of a simple design, the parts of which can be found directly on the site and in your own workshop.

The master will need:

• Barrel - its capacity depends on the type of work, but as indicated above for private construction, 100-200 liters is enough;
• Metal pipes or profiles (up to 50 cm long) for the frame - it is best to weld them in the form of triangles, since this figure is geometrically considered the most stable;
• Rod or pipe for the axis of rotation;
• 3-4 (depending on the length of the barrel) square “blades” cut out of metal;
• Lever handle or steering wheel.
• A pair of hinges and a lock to make a hatch;
• Tools for work - drill, grinder and welding.

By the way, home craftsmen are most often interested in how to make a homemade concrete mixer from a 200-liter plastic or metal barrel. It is most suitable for convenient use.

First of all, the container is measured and centered to avoid vibrations, after which it is fixed to the frame pipes by welding and one of the side bases is cut out or sawed out. Instead of a barrel in the construction of such a concrete mixer, an ordinary deep bucket is used.

Then a “mixer” is made - square blades are welded onto the rod-axis, one up and down from the axis, and it is with them that the solution is mixed during rotation.

Next, using a drill or welding, two holes are made in the base of the container. The cut out “bottom” is placed on the finished “mixer”, and the entire structure is inserted into the barrel, after which the bottom is again firmly welded to the container. Now the axis with the blades rotates freely inside the structure, and it itself stands tightly and motionlessly on the frame trusses.

After this, a rectangle is cut out from the side of the container. This is the hatch hole and the flap of the future unit. The components of the solution will be poured into it. It is important that the dimensions of the hatch are proportional to the dimensions of the container. If the hatch is short, it will be inconvenient to load components and unload the finished mixture from it. If it is too long, it will reduce the reliability of the unit.

The cut out rectangle is welded onto hinges, which are secured to the hatch. This is how the damper appears. After the latch is attached to it, the lid can be opened and closed during operation.

The last step is to attach a lever handle or steering wheel to the rotation axis and a homemade concrete mixer with coercive principle action will be ready.

Reference. An electric motor can also be installed on a similar design instead of a manual drive. Then during operation the rotation will be more uniform and will not require physical effort.

From the washing machine

Engine design on a homemade concrete mixer

It is quite possible to assemble a concrete mixer from an old washing machine; the engine and belt drive installed in it can become the capacity of a “home” concrete mixer with a gear drive.

To construct such a model, in addition to the engine (power about 180 W) taken from a used “washing machine”, the master will need:

• Capacity – metal drum, bucket or barrel with a height of up to 750 mm and a base of up to 560 mm;
• Pulleys taken from the same washing machine;
• The drive mechanism is a wheel, a belt ring and two gears (large and small diameters - 30 cm and 6 cm);
• Metal fittings (pipes or pipe profiles);
• Wheels of a country cart or wheelbarrow;
• Welding machine and tools.

A chair-shaped base with handles welded to the “back” supports is made from reinforcement using welding. It is advisable to strengthen all corner parts by welding metal triangular plates onto them. In the center of the “back”, another metal structure is welded between two supports - a frame with a pin on which the pulley and container will be attached. The crossbar is strengthened as tightly as possible - it will bear the maximum load during operation.

Under or above the crossbar (depending on the radius of the belt drive), stops for the gear, a seating cell for the motor and another pin for the drive wheel are welded. The frame is cleaned of rust and coated with primer.

Two more triangular trusses are made from the remnants of the reinforcement. A wheelbarrow wheel is installed on the side of each of them. The resulting unit structures are also welded to the frame - with the help of wheels, it will be more convenient to transport the concrete mixer from place to place, and the trusses will provide a strong support during operation of the unit.

When all the pulleys and stops are ready, the drive mechanism is assembled. To do this, a gear is mounted on the drive pulley. After this, a second pulley is installed at the stop, located on the crossbar above the large gear - on one side the small gear is mounted on it, and on the other - the drive wheel.

Then the engine is mounted on the lower part of the frame in such a way that its wheel and the drive wheel are parallel - a belt ring is pulled between them.

Last operation– securing the container. To do this, a hole is made in the bottom, which is fixed on the drive pulley. Then the bottom is welded and cleaned so that there are no holes.

The rotation of the container is provided by a motor and will occur along the axis of the pulley, at an angle to the vertical due to the tilt of the bed. The mixture is poured into the drum through the top, and the finished solution will also be drained.

Reference. For ease of operation of the unit, experts recommend adding a starting mechanism to the engine - it can be taken from the same machine, made from an automobile or industrial starter.

Manual from a can

Manual from a can: drawing

Another option is to make a homemade concrete mixer from an old milk can or flask.

Its convenience lies in design feature a factory-made lid that ensures a hermetically sealed closure.

To ensure rotation, as in the first design, the can is marked and centered.

After this, an axial pipe or rod is threaded through its center, which is rigidly fixed to the stacks from the outside using welding.

The design of the frame with rings for the axial pipe also does not differ from the first option - the axis with a flask in the center is fixed in rings on the triangular supports of the frame. A wheel or lever is attached to the end of the axle, with which it is rotated, mixing the solution inside. The dissecting element inside the container is the axis itself.

In addition to those listed above, there are many other design options for “homemade” concrete mixers proposed by folk craftsmen. They differ in design details, container volumes, shapes of rotational blades, angle of inclination of the pear, etc.

Having studied different models, advanced masters often take from different designs individual elements and collect them at their dacha or garden plot a hybrid, based primarily on the parts available at hand.

So, instead of a drum or barrel, you can use a piece of an old heat-conducting pipe, sealed at both ends. The pear barrel of a forced-type mixer can be cut in half so that the axis of rotation rests directly on the hinges in the end walls. Finally, with the help of a welding machine and a little patience, the master can make all the parts of the drum and blades, as well as the components and trusses of the frame himself, and then install the old motor and drive mechanism (as in the case of a washing machine). Such an installation is almost in no way inferior to industrial designs that can be found in the store.

Thus, if you approach the manufacture of a concrete mixer responsibly and listen to advice experienced craftsmen, a universal unit will appear on the site, which will greatly facilitate repair and construction work.

When constructing a concrete mixer yourself, you will not need to spend a lot of money, but during the operation of the installation during construction, the efforts spent will pay off handsomely - after all, even the simplest mixer will prepare a solution of better quality and faster than if a builder mixes it in a basin or bucket with a shovel.

Can you imagine a construction site that doesn't even have a small concrete mixer? Without such a unit, preparing good cement mortar becomes almost impossible. When the need arises to build a small structure or simply “patch up” something, concreting becomes a popular task. Here is just a short list of situations in which you cannot do without this tool: filling garden paths, arranging a foundation for a gazebo, installing a fence, and so on. In a word, concrete is needed everywhere - the only difference is the scale of the event. It makes no sense to buy an industrial device for household needs - the purchase will cost you prohibitively. Alternative solution will become a homemade concrete mixer with your own hands. Thanks to this article, you will learn how to make it yourself from scrap materials.

Four Principles of Mixing Concrete

Homemade concrete mixer

According to the facts, you can prepare your own solution without special equipment. Many people even like to work “according to the old method.” But how much do you manage to do this way? Create a dry mix for construction using a regular drill or a mixer, you can. But when it comes to sand and cement, they are powerless.

The simplest and most common mixing principle is called forced. All components are mixed in a container that is stationary. A mechanical drive is usually used for this. The working drum can be positioned vertically or horizontally.

Drawing of a horizontal concrete mixer

Despite the fact that even a small forced-action concrete mixer can be very effective, it also has its disadvantages:

• “Dead zones” appear in the container. This especially applies to the space near the walls.
• Complexity of design. Rotation units must be hermetically protected from the effects of the solution, which may be aggressive.
• It is almost impossible to prepare a solution in such a unit, which includes medium and large filler.

The second principle is called gravitational. In this case, all components are mixed due to gravity. In industry, this method is rarely used, as it requires a lot of time and effort. Barrels made of metal are most often used as containers. How they are made and how to make a stand will be discussed below.

Most modern concrete mixers use a combined principle that combines the first two methods. They have the following advantages:

• Strict sealing is not necessary. The drum is open at the top; there is no need for rotation units, since any contact with the solution is excluded.
• Parts wear out much less frequently.
• Simplicity and reliability of operation.
• There are also no restrictions on the composition of the solution - it can be crushed stone, expanded clay, gravel, and so on.

The fourth principle of mixing is called vibrational. Recently, some craftsmen have been mixing the solution using vibration. If we talk about large-scale volumes, the results can be the most stunning. Typically, the vibration mixing principle is used when it is necessary to produce precise reinforced concrete structure with good performance characteristics.

Under normal conditions, the gearbox and drive are replaced by a powerful hammer drill (permissible minimum 1.3 kW). Its vibration action must be independent. There is no need to press the cartridge.

Concrete mixer gearbox photo

In general, vibration mixing allows you to create an almost perfect concrete mixture. However, it is also not optimal for preparing a “heavy” solution.

Concrete mixer from a milk can (flask)

DIY concrete mixer from a milk can

It is worth understanding that not everyone has access to electricity. summer cottage. Therefore, it would be quite logical to make a homemade product of a manual type and of small volume. A DIY concrete mixer made from a milk flask is a very simple and uncomplicated option. You will need the can itself, pipe scraps or any other scrap metal of a similar shape. It can be done in 2-3 hours; the main scope of work involves welding the frame.

• Taking a round pipe, bend the handle as shown in the picture. Weld the water couplings at the top. Their internal diameter must exceed the diameter of the pipe used for the handle.
• Pass the tube through the flask, making holes, and then weld it to the body.
• It is extremely important to find the center of gravity of the concrete mixer with your own hands so that it can be turned easily. To simplify the design, you can do without using a coupling. Cut arc-shaped recesses in the frame and place the axle on them.

The unit, although simple, is not the most reliable. Therefore, for manufacturing it is better to use some other drawings.

Big barrel

Concrete mixer from a large barrel 200 liters

A more practical option is a concrete mixer made from a 200 liter barrel. Why exactly two hundred liters? This volume is considered optimal for mixing concrete at a time. The plastic option is immediately discarded - such barrels will not last you long.

A homemade concrete mixer from a barrel is made as follows:

• Preparing a barrel that has a lid and a bottom. If the cover is missing, it is welded separately. Didn't find the container? You can do it yourself. Homemade option is in no way inferior to a factory barrel. You will need dense sheets of metal with a thickness of 1.5 to 2 mm, rollers, an effective welding machine and a wooden hammer.
• We attach flanges with bearings to the lid and bottom. We cut out a hatch on the side where the solution components will be filled. A little trick - for a concrete mixer made from a barrel, such a hole should be made closer to the end, which will be lower during the scrolling process.
• Knowing how to make a concrete mixer with your own hands is half the battle. It is equally important to ensure proper mixing of the solution. To do this, you need to weld the blades to the inside walls (angle from 30 to 40 degrees). This angle is extremely important so that during the mixing process the contents are “pushed” out. In principle, you can attach the blades to the shaft.

How do professionals make a base for a concrete mixer?

Naturally, a manual concrete mixer with your own hands must have a stable base. This is necessary so that the structure does not start to turn over during mixing. With a small load of the frame from wooden beam will be quite sufficient (section 10 by 10 or 15 by 15 cm). Optimal options connections: “in a tenon” or “in half a tree”. They are necessary so that the structure does not suffer damage from vibration. When the assembly is completed, all joints are glued and tightened with self-tapping screws.

Need a stronger, longer-lasting unit? Then a frame from metal corner. Not everyone has a welding machine, but you can fix it with rivets or bolts.

If necessary, wheels are screwed to the base. This arrangement of the concrete mixer will allow you not only to turn it over, but also to move it.

As for engines, a DIY barrel concrete mixer can be equipped with a motor from a scooter or car. A good option There will also be a concrete mixer from a washing machine. The advantage of this option is that it is designed for long-term operation and can last for several years.

How to make a concrete mixer with your own hands video

Below you can see photos of drawings that allow you to do everything yourself:

Drawing of a homemade concrete mixer from a barrel

At what speed should I mix concrete?

We will not consider in detail the process of mixing concrete - this is the topic of a separate article. Let us only note the fact that the torsional moment plays an important role.

That's why the washer gearbox is better conventional motor from a scooter or car. It can withstand almost any load and can operate at low speeds. 25 full cycles (revolutions) per minute is enough.

To provide this quantity, the gearbox may have different scheme. The simplest, most typical option is when the gearbox is made of a belt and pulley. A do-it-yourself concrete mixer with a moped motor is distinguished by its mobility. The gearbox is convenient and compact; it does not require electricity to operate. Even if you have large territory, the made device moves along it without unnecessary worries and hassle.

Gearbox in in this case must be chain, otherwise the structure will not function well.

Instructions. We told you about what the manufacturing scheme should be. Follow it strictly to get the desired result. Any deviations in operation can lead to the fact that even a homemade concrete mixer from an old washing machine will turn out to be of poor quality.

Frame. Don't even try to cook metal frame with cast iron. You will significantly complicate your hard work.

Don't overload the structure overweight. If you plan to mix a small amount of concrete, you definitely don’t need a 300-liter barrel.

Absolutely anyone can save a substantial amount of money if they know how to make a concrete mixer with their own hands - photos and videos are attached to the instructions. You will need a minimum of building materials, tools, a little care and resourcefulness. And one last piece of advice in conclusion. If there is such an opportunity, it is advisable to involve one more (or preferably two) people in the work. Some steps need to be completed at once, and doing it alone is not very convenient.

Homemade concrete mixer from a barrel video

To improve a site, you often need either mortar or concrete. Kneading it by hand is difficult and time consuming, and the quality of the solution is far from the best: it is difficult to achieve uniformity. Not everyone wants to buy a concrete mixer for periodic use. A good solution is to make your own concrete mixer. You don’t need much money; in terms of performance, homemade units are no worse than Chinese ones, and sometimes even better.

Manual concrete mixer

At a construction site there is not always electricity, and large volumes of mortar and concrete are not always required either. The solution is to make a small-volume concrete mixer that will rotate manually (with a manual drive). The designs of these models are simple and straightforward.

From a milk flask

The simplest manual concrete mixer can be made using an ordinary metal flask (milk used to be sold in these). You will also need pipe cuttings or other scrap metal. The design is simple, such a concrete mixer can be built with your own hands in a couple of hours. The main thing is to weld the frame. Assembling the concrete mixer itself will take a couple of tens of minutes.

Make a frame from round pipe bend the handle. In the upper part of the frame, weld two water couplings (for example). Their internal diameter is slightly larger than the diameter of the pipe used for the handle. The pipe is passed through the flask and welded to the body.

In order for the barrel to spin easily, you need to find the center of gravity. To do this, you can put it on some thin object, and move it forward/backward to find this very center. This is where you will need to pass the handle. Having passed the handle, it is attached to the walls of the case. This is where difficulties can arise: flasks are usually made from aluminum alloy, and the handle can be made of steel. It will not be possible to connect them by welding. The only available way out is cold welding. He is quite real. The remaining modes - with bimetallic gaskets or argon-arc welding at home - are not implemented. Another way out is to weld plates onto the handle, which are riveted to the sides of the flask.

To prevent the handle from playing too much and falling out during operation, nuts are welded to it on both sides of the coupling.

In general, this is all manufacturing manual concrete mixer with your own hands. For one batch in a 40 liter can you can get 2.5-3 buckets of solution. For use in a country house or on a plot near a house (without construction) it is more than enough.

If there is no can, you can adapt a barrel (thick-walled). Then the problem with welding the handle disappears, but you will have to come up with a system for fixing the lid. You can make something similar to the one that the can has.

The video shows an example of a handmade homemade concrete mixer made from a milk flask. The design is a little different, but not too different. Eat interesting idea— inside the container, dividers are welded to the pipe, which speed up mixing.

From a barrel (manual and electric)

The author called this design a “drunk barrel” because of its unique trajectory. The whole point is that the axis of rotation goes obliquely through the container. Because of this, the solution rolls over from one wall to another. The design is also simple and effective. What is important is that there are no problems with welding dissimilar metals. A drawing of a manual concrete mixer from a barrel is shown below.

In the upper part of the frame, bearings are installed in the center, into which the handle is threaded. Thanks to them, a 200 liter barrel rotates easily. Just choose a container with thick walls - it will last longer. No additional blades are welded inside: they only retain the components, interfering with mixing and complicating unloading.

IN original design The loading/unloading hatch is located in the bottom. This is a cut-off part (about 1/3), attached with hinges to the bottom, equipped with rubber sealing around the perimeter and closed with two locks. When loading the barrel, turn it so that the hatch is at the top. When unloading, turn down. The solution moves by gravity into the substituted container, and the stuck one can be removed by knocking on the body with a hammer or sledgehammer.

This design served the author for 10 years, although it was made for a one-time job, but it turned out to be very successful: 2.5 buckets of solution are mixed well in 20-30 revolutions. During this time, it was repeated and improved by neighbors and acquaintances. Most of the modifications concerned the hatch. Experimentally, its most successful design was identified - similar to the one used in a milk flask. This “neck” is welded to the body of the barrel on one side (look at the photo above). They also make handles on both sides so that two people can work.

This design can easily be converted into an electric homemade concrete mixer. Not very well placed powerful engine— 1 kW is enough for a 200-liter barrel, a small sprocket is attached to the axis of which, and the sprocket is welded to the axis-pipe bigger size(to reduce the number of revolutions), they are connected using a chain (from a scooter, for example).

DIY electric concrete mixer from a barrel and a washing machine engine

This concrete mixer is gear type. To make this model you needed:

• galvanized steel barrel 180 liters (diameter 560 mm, height 720 mm);
• washing machine motor - 180 W, 1450 rpm;
• flywheel and starter gear from Moskvich 412;
• two pulleys from a washing machine with a diameter of 300 mm and 60 mm;
• wheels from a garden cart;
• scrap metal for the frame.

Gears, wheels - everything is old, everything was in the garage

First of all, we clean everything from rust, treat it with a rust converter and cover it with primer.

We make a frame from pipes and channels. We strengthen the corners of the frame by welding metal plates. Everything must be tough and reliable. We are making a serious crossbar: a barrel of solution will “hang” on it, and everything will vibrate and spin.

The frame is the basis of the structure. The pipes are almost new))

We weld the pins and the seat for the transmission gears. We remove rust, treat it with a rust converter, and prime it.

We fasten the wheels from the cart. They have wide treads and they have justified themselves: it is not difficult to drag a concrete mixer even just across the site.

We also make structures from pipes for support and installation of all the “filling”.

The second is for greater stability

We begin to assemble the drive. First we place the large gear on the previously welded pin.

We install an assembly in the seat - a small gear connected to a wheel for a belt drive.

We attach the engine to the plate welded in advance.

We hang it so that the two belt drive wheels are at the same level. It is also necessary to ensure normal belt tension.

All that remains is to attach the barrel. We make a hole in the center for a large pulley and drill a hole for fasteners. Let's put it in place.

All that remains is electrical part. We connect the cable via

Several photos of the main components. Maybe someone needs to take a closer look.

The second transfer option is from a car disk

The barrel is 200 liters, its edges were cut, bent and welded, forming the usual “pear”.

They made a “pear” from a barrel

The car disk was bolted to the bottom (with rubber gaskets). It was selected so that a recess was formed for the belt drive. A hub was pre-attached to the disk.

Blades were welded inside the barrel to mix the solution more efficiently.

All this equipment was attached to the frame.

Where the plate is welded is the place for the engine. We set it so that the belt runs smoothly. Power was supplied through a toggle switch, and a timer from the washing machine from which the motor was removed was turned on in series.

In general, the rotation speed was 35-40 rpm. Should be enough.

Homemade mixers in video version

If clear general principle How to make a concrete mixer with your own hands, you can modernize and remake it, adjusting it to the existing parts. The videos collected in this section will help.

Crown type

Another option, but not a gear type, but a crown type. By the way, you can buy a crown (cast iron or plastic) and install it on the barrel.

With rollers as support

Collapsible mixer from a barrel

Photo of homemade concrete mixer units (may be useful)

Each or almost every self-made concrete mixer has some original solutions. Few people repeat the design completely without making any changes - you have to adapt to the parts and components that are available. Some interesting solutions is in the photo.

Organization of transmission using a motorcycle chain and a second belt

The shape of the blades is a complex thing. They need to improve mixing and not stop the concrete from falling down

The construction tools market offers big choice concrete mixers for every taste and budget. From the simplest - for mixing small volumes of masonry and plaster solutions, to powerful forced-action concrete mixers in which hard materials are prepared concrete mixtures. Despite this, many self-builders prefer not to buy a concrete mixer in a store, but to make it with their own hands from trash lying around in the barn. How to assemble such a homemade product, and is it worth the bother of making it? The answers are in the article.

• How to make a concrete mixer from a barrel and a washing machine engine
• How to turn a concrete mixer into a sifter for sand, gravel and crushed stone
• What tools are needed to make homemade products?
• Is it profitable to make a homemade concrete mixer?

How to make an inexpensive concrete mixer from a steel barrel and an electric motor from a washing machine

lariprof User FORUMHOUSE

When building the bathhouse, I mixed concrete by hand in a trough. This method is suitable for small volumes, but not for building something larger. Too much effort is wasted on “hand-to-hand” mixing of concrete. I didn’t want to buy an expensive concrete mixer, but spending money on a cheap but short-lived one would be a waste of money. I looked on the Internet what homemade concrete mixers are made from. I liked the couple mobile structures from ordinary metal barrels for 200 liters. I bought a used oil container at a car depot and, based on it, profile pipes, a Bendix with a crown from a Volga and an old engine from a washing machine, I assembled a cheap concrete mixer.

The following is placed in the concrete mixer:

• 4 buckets enriched sand and gravel mixture;
• 1 bucket of cement;
• 1.5 buckets of water;
• 1 bucket of sand.

The washing machine motor copes with the load and does not overheat.

Close-up of a concrete mixer drive.

The drive is protected by a tin cover.

In the rain, the start button is covered with a plastic bag.

The second concrete mixer, made from what was at hand, was made AfanasievichRUS.

AfanasievichRUS User FORUMHOUSE

I didn’t want to spend 12 - 25 thousand rubles on buying a concrete mixer. and made it myself from various rubbish, a barrel and an electric motor from a washing machine. I have been using a homemade concrete mixer for several years now. In principle, everything suits me. The metal of the barrel is of course thin, but everything can be fixed by welding. Blades for stirring the mixture are welded inside the barrel. To make a concrete mixer I needed:

• two hundred liter barrel;
• engine with a power of 0.45 kW at 3400 rpm;
• pulley from the seeder;
• wheel from children's bike;
• rim from a bicycle wheel for adults;
• chain from an Izh motorcycle;
• bearing with bushing from the rear wheel of an Izh motorcycle.

​We invite you to watch a video showing the operation of this concrete mixer.

Exit ready mixture- 100 - 120 l.

How to make a cheap sifter for sand and crushed stone from a concrete mixer

chichic User FORUMHOUSE

I don’t have much space on my site, so when I brought in sand and crushed stone, they were dumped into one pile. Over the course of several years, they got mixed up. I didn’t want to sift through this volume manually. So I made a sifter out of a concrete mixer.

We'll tell you how to make this necessary household device:

1. Take two strips of galvanized metal 100 and 200 mm wide.

1. Bend a strip 100 mm wide and tighten it with bolts around the neck of the concrete mixer.

1. Bend a 200 mm wide strip into a ring and secure the ends with rivets.

1. Cut the mesh with a 6 mm mesh to the diameter of the ring with an overlap. Bend the ends and secure them with rivets to the ring through a metal tape.

It turned out to be a large sieve. For ease of operation, screw the handles onto the sieve.

Insert the sieve into the concrete mixer with the mesh side down.

Turn on the concrete mixer and sift through the bulk materials. Then stop the concrete mixer and only then remove the sieve!

The sifted sand and stone dust remain in the “pear”.

Finished products.

chichic User FORUMHOUSE

I liked the homemade product. I plan to buy a mesh with a mesh size of 4 mm and 8 mm and make two more sieves for different jobs.

• Do not sift the bulk until the concrete mixer is fully loaded. It is enough to sift 8 shovels and immediately pour the contents of the concrete mixer into the bag. If you fill the entire “pear” with sand, it will be compressed at the bottom into a dense mass. It is inconvenient to pack it in bags.

• If during operation you need to stop the concrete mixer filled with concrete and then turn it on again, then turn the “pear” so that its mouth is directed upward. Only then start the concrete mixer and turn the “pear” at the desired angle for normal mixing of the mixture. This will reduce the load on the motor and drive, and they will last longer.

Another sifter design for bulk building materials from Vitek.

Tools for making a homemade concrete mixer

You will need a standard kit for any DIYer:

• Bulgarian;
• powerful drill;
• welding inverter;
• a set of locksmith tools and Supplies- cutting and cleaning discs for angle grinders, electrodes, metal drills.

Is it profitable to make a concrete mixer with your own hands?

Practice shows that homemade product is profitable if you have “unnecessary” ones lying around the household electric motors, pulleys, chains, gears, metal, etc. A used 200-liter barrel costs a penny, but its bottom will have to be strengthened and the top of the barrel will have to be narrowed to a cone. A “pear” made from a barrel, due to its thin walls, is inferior in strength and durability to a high-quality factory one made of thick metal. Do not forget to add the time spent on its manufacture to the cost of the concrete mixer and, if not, the cost of purchasing necessary materials and tools. So study first construction market and proposals from private owners.

If you want to save money, consider buying a used concrete mixer. The main thing is not to purchase a dead unit with a worn-out drive and an engine that is “tired” due to overload.

Do you want to buy a concrete mixer, but don’t know which one to get so that it lasts a long time and doesn’t break? The answer is in the topic where it was collected practical experience real users and provide advice to concrete mixer manufacturers.

• Do you want to know the proportions of high-quality self-mixing concrete? Do you think that self-mixed concrete is more profitable than purchased concrete? The material describes in detail how to independently mix a mixture of sand, water, cement and crushed stone in a concrete mixer, so as not to be disappointed with the result.
• Those DIYers who need an inexpensive profile bender will learn how to make one from spare parts from old cars in the article.
• Spring is just around the corner and soon chainsaws will be roaring around the plots. In order not to overstrain yourself when sawing firewood and to significantly speed up and simplify this process, read the article which shows 5 options for sawhorses for sawing logs and 3 options for wood splitters.

The video Concrete and Concrete Mixes tells where it is better to buy concrete, and what ingredients and additives are needed to make it yourself.