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The best do-it-yourself concrete mixer for the home. Low budget do-it-yourself concrete mixer. Mechanical or electrical

Do-it-yourself concrete mixer is necessary for construction work. If you want to carry out the construction of a building, you will need a lot of concrete. Even a wooden building needs a solid concrete foundation. In view of this, it is impossible to save on material.

DIY options

Don't know how to make a concrete mixer? There are several options. A simple option is a handmade product that works by human power. Difficult option - homemade device using an electric motor. It is worth making it from improvised means.

Making at home involves observing the nuances. The product must be:

• Safe. It is especially important to pay attention to the gearbox, powered by electric current.
• Low cost, easy production. The parts you need for production should be cheap.
• Ease of application. A mechanical concrete mixer is practically no different from a manual mixer, and it is much easier to use. Decide in advance on the type of device.

Materials and tools

For a concrete mixer from a manual type barrel, you will need the following materials:

• channel;
• card loops;
• Bulgarian;
• 200 liter barrel;
• bearing housings;
• metal corners (50x50 millimeters);
• welding machine;
• fasteners;
• flanges;
• pipe.

How to make a concrete mixer with your own hands with an electric motor? Additional materials required:

• electric motor;
• pipe sections;
• rod reinforcement;
• corners.

Do-it-yourself concrete mixer from a barrel (video)

Step-by-step instruction

1. Cut holes on the side (24x30 cm) - they are required for laying the concrete components and the hatch.
2. The opening of the hatch will be carried out using card loops.
3. Flanges are fixed on it. Inside the barrel, they will prevent the walls from breaking.
4. The comb is made from the corners. It speeds up the mixing process. The length of the corners is 760 millimeters, they are installed inside the barrel. Pins are fixed to the corners by welding.
5. The elements are welded. Racks are placed near the ends of the barrel.
6. To give the concrete mixer stability, the supports of the racks are dug into the ground (the depth should be 30 centimeters), the soil is rammed.
7. On both sides of the shaft, levers are attached. The length of the handles must ensure that the drum can be rotated with both hands.

After the design of the concrete mixer is ready, it is placed on the site. It is necessary to choose a place where the concrete components will be stored. Their laying goes through the hatch, then the shaft is rotated. To ensure the mixing of the mixture, 15 revolutions are enough.

Important! Growths may appear inside the barrel. For cleaning, stones and water (1 bucket) are placed in the drum. Then it is enough to make 25 revolutions of the shaft. The contents of the barrel are then emptied.

Engine installation

The production of a barrel with an electric motor is carried out using a single-phase motor. Its rotation speed should be less than 40 rpm.

You can use engines from old washing machines - "Wave", "Seagull". They have enough torque. It is important to remember that the optimum rotation speed of the tub is between 20 and 30 rpm. For this, different gearboxes are used. The easiest way is to use a drive belt and a pulley.

It is also allowed to use a motor from a motorcycle running on gasoline. Such a device is convenient to use, since it does not depend on electricity. A chain reducer will help reduce the rotation speed. The engine is attached with 4 bolts to a bracket welded to the body.

Free Concrete Mixer Blueprints

Important nuances

• To make it convenient to use the device, it is worthwhile to provide for the presence of a tipping structure (it is made from corners) and a mechanism for transportation.
• Before manufacturing, it is worth taking into account individual characteristics and showing design resourcefulness. This is the only way to get a product that will be convenient to use.
• For quality work the shaft must be rotated through the bearings. The maximum dose of the solution is limited to 7 buckets.

Drawings: drafting features

• It is not difficult to draw up a drawing for creating a concrete mixer. To make a simple device, you need a bucket, a drill, a bracket. But you can also produce a little concrete. However, with the help of the presented design, it will be possible to make concrete for garden path or filling the floor in the room. To carry out large volumes, an appropriate capacity is required - from 150 liters. It can be welded from sheets of metal.

• The next step is the construction of the base. It should also be reflected in the drawing. The base must support the weight of the machine and the concrete. It must also be durable. When performing minor work, a frame made of timber with a cross section of more than 100 millimeters is suitable. For large volumes, a metal frame should be preferred. The structure is assembled by welding.
• The engine can be made from a motor from an old washing machine. To ensure the required speed of rotation, it is worth using gearboxes. They can be made from belts and pulleys.

Even during production simple device drawings are required. They are much easier to work with.

The principle of operation of the concrete mixer (video)

For construction work, a concrete mixer is simply needed. You can do it yourself. The product can be manual type or equipped with an electric motor. Do not forget about the drawings, with their help the work will be done quickly and without errors!

In order not to lose the material, be sure to save it to your social network Vkontakte, Odnoklassniki, Facebook by simply clicking on the button below.

People who plan to build their own house make a list necessary fixtures. And it turns out that you can’t do without a concrete mixer. The acquisition of such a device is associated with large cash outlays, so the craftsmen have developed instructions on how to independently assemble such a device. An important factor is the fact that this product is designed for a long and repeated service.

You can be sure that if you carefully follow the instructions, the assembly of the concrete mixer will not take much time. Here are the benefits you get:

• design involves the use economical materials(i.e. you don't have to spend a lot).
• even a person without special skills can assemble this product.
• the component parts are not particularly rare. They are easy to find, but be prepared that if they are not in your possession, you will either have to ask friends or buy them.

A homemade concrete mixer includes the following parts: a handle for ejecting concrete, a motor, a frame, a container for concrete. If you intend to transport the concrete mixer from place to place, then you should also assemble an appropriate mobile structure based on a trolley with wheels.

First you need to consider a plan for the upcoming work, namely, draw a drawing of a concrete mixer, decide what components it will consist of.

There is no doubt that a bucket will be part of the concrete mixer. You will have to find a container or vessel of large volume.

“Perhaps it will be one of those barrels that often stand on household plots(suitable for both metal and plastic).
- Sometimes there are also very large, multi-liter pots, which are also suitable for concrete.
- Round capacious tanks, like the "titans" used to make tea on trains.

If you could not find such a container at home or with friends, then you will have to work hard - to make it yourself. At the same time, save a lot of money, because in the store such products are not cheap.

It should be noted right away that for comfortable operation of the concrete mixer, a capacity of 200 liters is required. and more. Then you do not have to unload and unload it, but immediately prepare right amount mixtures.

In particularly unfavorable conditions, people manage to make concrete by persistently mixing the mixture with a shovel. But it's hard, exhausting work. After all, the composition of the mixture includes cement, sand and water - the substance turns out to be viscous, and the end result can be worse than if you use a concrete mixer. But some old container(for example, a 200 l barrel) will become an essential part of the concrete mixer and save you from suffering.

Consider two options for making such useful device. So, in the first case, you will rotate the concrete mixer with your own hands. Which, however, is much easier than doing it without this device at all, with a shovel. The second option is more “advanced”, it uses an engine (electric or gasoline), but, accordingly, more costs will have to be applied.

If you decide to make a concrete mixer without additional traction, then you will need a shaft and a barrel. Handles are fixed on both sides of the shaft. You turn these knobs, and the shaft rotates with the barrel of mixture that is skewered on it.

The assembly sequence is as follows:

Now consider the option if you decide to use the engine.

In this case, the engine torque will go through the belt to the pulley, and from the pulley, fixed instead of the handle, to the shaft. The rest of the details are the same as when using manual traction.

You might like the vertical version of this design better. To do this, do the following:

1. Place the frame with the motor on the base. It will provide turns.
2. The barrel turns due to the shaft and special rollers on which it rests.
3. In order not to make it difficult to turn the device over, a handle is welded to the frame axis, and the frame itself is removed.

Typically, such an advanced model of a concrete mixer is stored and used for its intended purpose in a special protected place. It can be a garage, a shed, a spacious utility room - the main thing is that there should be electrical wiring.

Not everyone has welding equipment, and not everyone knows the skills of this craft. In this case, the frame is made of an iron corner, and the concrete mixer itself is bolted. If you have an old washing machine, then the engine from it will fit this device. Also, if you find an unnecessary drill with a working 1.3 kW motor, you can use it. conventional motor suitable for petrol too.

frame

The greatest load of our structure will be taken by its frame. After all, when the bucket rotates, a load is formed, which significantly supplements the mass of concrete. At the base of the frame, a steel angle with parameters of about 110-130 mm is required.

If welding equipment is not available, you will have to get by with 27 mm bolts (or better, even larger ones). Using bolts with a smaller caliber is highly discouraged, because. they may not withstand the upcoming heavy loads. But in any case, frame welding remains a more reliable option.

Try to find a 1.3 kW motor. Some craftsmen who do not have such a device manage to connect two motors with identical speeds and torque. But a small failure of one of them can lead to a total breakdown.

Reducer

Rapid mixing of concrete is unacceptable. It is recommended to do about 35 revolutions per minute. Most engines are designed for high speed. Slow engines are extremely rare in specialized stores. So it would be optimal to use a fast engine, supplemented by a gearbox.

Belting

This is the most economical and easiest way to manufacture a gearbox. You will need pulleys and belts.

If you need to reduce the speed from 1000 to 35 per minute, then you need to divide the actual number by the desired one. So, 1000/35 = 28. Therefore, the diameter of one pulley must exceed the diameter of the second by 28 times.

Suppose the diameter of the small pulley is 3 cm, then 3 * 28. It turns out 84 cm - this should be a large pulley.

chain drive

If you decide to use a chain drive, then the principle of its device is the same as with a belt drive. The only difference will be that the calculations take into account not the diameter, but how many teeth in the small gear.

Gear

If you have a ring gear from an engine old car, or better - a gearbox, then it can be used for gearing.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

1. Flip the barrel.
2. Place a hardened steel disc (crown) in the middle of the bottom
3. Mark the places you need.
4. Set aside the crown and use a drill to make holes in the marked places.
5. Fasten the crown with bolts as tightly as possible.

But if it is possible to weld a crown, this will be the best option.

If you have already installed the crown, then to install the gearbox, you must perform the same steps. Those. you make marks, make holes, fasten as tightly as possible with suitable bolts.

The next step: mounting the barrel, inside which the blades are already welded or screwed. Used for this metal corners or sheets.

For reliability, it is required to replace the last pulley or gear wheel with a special gear located on the starter (bendix) of the car. If you have not done this before and do not want to make a mistake, delve into the documentation. It is this gear that is designed to accept and withstand the greatest load when the bucket loaded with concrete rotates.

Steering wheel

If you are making a vertical concrete mixer, then to unload concrete from it, you need to make a steering wheel
Your choice of the following options for its creation

• use a pulley or wheels (you can use old ones)
• a piece of pipe with thick walls will do.

If we have selected a suitable pulley or wheel, then we drill several holes along their circumference (your choice - 6 or 8). The minimum diameter is 6 mm, but it is better to do more. The holes are threaded. Even long bolts can act as handles (but in this case it is necessary to cut their heads and cut threads of more than 10 mm), but threaded rods or metal handles are better suited. They must be screwed into the holes on the wheel or pulley.

The manufacture of a handwheel from a thick-walled pipe is almost the same as in the case of a pulley and a wheel. Sometimes, if the pipe diameter is too small, some handles are set with an offset.

In the event that it is not at all possible to make a steering wheel, then the concrete is removed with a shovel. This is a more time-consuming, but also effective way.

The most important part of the concrete mixer will be the tub. She needs to give Special attention. Well, if you have a suitable container. And if not, you have to do it yourself. You will need a metal sheet 2 mm thick. A development of a large truncated cone is drawn on the back of this sheet, and a development of a small truncated cone is drawn on the back. You also need to draw a circle for the bottom.

Then you need to cut this scan, bend and connect all the components of the tub. Before the final welding, it is necessary to study how accurately the parts fit together.

Machine frame

You need to determine whether you are counting on a long service life of the concrete mixer or whether one season will be enough. In the first case, you can assemble a frame from wood, but for a durable construction it is necessary to make it from metal.

If you chose the option with a tree, then prepare the screws - they will be needed during assembly. In addition, you need to find a beam (its parameters to choose from are 10 × 10 or 15 × 15 cm). The joints are carefully glued at the joints.

At a concrete mixer that will serve you long years, must be metal frame. For production, you will need a 45 × 45 mm corner or a channel. As with other operations, more in a reliable way fastenings will be welding of the base, but in extreme cases, riveting or bolting will do.

concrete mixer frame

Whatever type of construction you choose, it is imperative to drill holes in the frame of the concrete mixer for all the devices that provide work.

Engine

As you know, Soviet washing machines, like refrigerators, despite long operation, serve faithfully. Therefore, a motor taken out of an old washing machine may well serve as an engine for a homemade concrete mixer. To ensure an acceptable speed for a concrete mixer, a gearbox is used.

You can also connect a gasoline engine. This option is more mobile, because. does not require electrical wiring. The engine can be taken from a moped. The transmission is carried out using a chain, which can also be taken from a moped or scooter.

Despite providing more mobility, the use gasoline engine associated with risk. If sparks or other accidents hit, an explosion is possible. But the use of an electric motor carries a potential danger.

To protect yourself and others, remember the following rules:

• because work in a humid environment, it is necessary to check the insulation of the cord.
  on the contrary, you cannot check the solution when the tub is rotating.
• because the concrete mixer will vibrate during operation, it is necessary to install secure stop under the wheels (if we are talking about a mobile version). Otherwise, she may suddenly move out of place, injuring someone.
• the same vibration weakens the tightening of the nuts. Therefore, check them regularly and tighten if necessary.
• Mittens will also come in handy. They will protect you from the solution and the occurrence of allergic irritations.
• do not leave a working concrete mixer unattended. It is unacceptable for children to approach her.

From all this it follows that even such a seemingly difficult unit as a concrete mixer can be made by hand. The main thing is to carefully and responsibly follow the instructions. And since no construction is complete without a concrete mixer, then it can be rented out, which will not only recoup the costs, but also earn.

When large-scale construction works, not the last question that needs to be decided where to get a mortar mixer - if you mix the mortar manually, then the lost time does not compensate for the savings from not buying a concrete mixer. Some skill in welding and locksmithing and instructions on how to make a concrete mixer with your own hands will help reduce costs.

Basic principles of operation of mortar mixers

According to the principle of operation, a do-it-yourself concrete mixer is no different from industrial analogues - the differences will be only in the materials used and sizes. In addition, it will be easier to repair a concrete mixer with your own hands, since you know the mechanism you made yourself inside and out.

Based on the scope of the planned work and the available components, finished device can mix concrete in a concrete mixer by force, gravity or combined. The latter is used most often due to the ease of manufacture of the device and the high quality of its work.

Forced mixing of the solution

According to this principle, a construction mixer or a drill with a special nozzle operates - a whisk is lowered into the solution and, rotating, mixes its components. But such tools are more suitable for gypsum plasters- sand and cement, especially with the addition of crushed stone, have a much greater weight, therefore, in best case it’s just that you won’t get a high-quality mixture, and at worst, by making a solution, you can burn the drill motor or its gearbox yourself.

For the preparation of concrete, a slightly modified design is used - a shaft passes through the center of the tank, on which blades are mounted, mixing the components of the mixture. Also good results show frame mixers that break up clods of mortar, turning it into a homogeneous mixture. Some builders are convinced that only such an arbolite mixer can prepare an arbolite solution with high quality.

Advantages and disadvantages

This method shows excellent results in production, but before using it at home, you should weigh the pros and cons of the design.

There is only one advantage - such a concrete mixer will produce the most homogeneous solution in the shortest time.

The disadvantages of such a device are much more:

• The complexity of the design. It is necessary to ensure the tightness of the place where the shaft passes through the mixing container. This determines how often the bearing needs to be replaced, which is usually installed in this place. It is also necessary to reduce the "dead zones" that are located near the walls of the tank - the blades or frame must rotate freely, but at the same time pass close enough to the surface so as not to leave unmixed parts of the solution there.
• Need quality parts. The concrete solution is quite heavy in itself, and the addition of crushed stone or other inclusions to it requires the concrete mixer to additional capacity. As a result, in order to get a good concrete mixer, you need to remember or master the basics of strength of materials.
• The design is not designed for the preparation of a solution that includes medium and large fractions of crushed stone or expanded clay - they will simply get stuck between the blades and walls.
• Large power consumption. Again, everything is tied to the density and weight of the concrete in which the blades will rotate. For the same reason, a self-made forced-action concrete mixer must necessarily be with an engine - if you try to rotate the shaft manually, you can use shovels with the same success.

If the quality of the mortar and the speed of its mixing are more important, then a forced concrete mixer with your own hands can be made according to the following schemes.

Details and device

The design consists of the following components:

• Carrying frame. Its execution is individual in each case.
• Drum for a batch, with smooth internal walls.
• working shaft. Frames or blades are attached to it, mixing the solution.
• Electric motor.
• Reduction gear.
• Coupling. Transfers force from the gearbox to the shaft. It can act as a fuse in case of jamming.
• Escape hatch ready solution.
• Lever for opening the hatch (or turning the drum).

Do-it-yourself forced-action concrete mixers require special attention to the way in which the prepared mortar will be unloaded. This is a hatch in the bottom of the mixing container or a device for completely turning it over so that the finished mixture is poured out through the loading compartment. Which of the methods is more suitable, it is advisable to decide in advance.

Visually forced concrete mixer in the video:

Gravity mixing

When using this method, the container itself is spinning into which the components of the solution are poured. Mixing occurs due to the constant pouring of sand and cement from top to bottom. The most difficult thing in this design is to ensure that the lid closes tightly so that water does not seep through it.

The most important advantage of the design is its simplicity. Such a do-it-yourself mortar mixer can be made from an ordinary can, even an unnecessary and leaky one will do. Do not drink water from it, so the hole can be closed by any means, and the neck rarely deteriorates and still provides the necessary tightness.

Such devices can also be used during construction in places where there is no electricity - such a home-made concrete mixer made by oneself does not have to be equipped with an electric drive, although its presence will greatly simplify the work.

Working on the same principle, but more common is a homemade concrete mixer from a barrel. It is easier for her to find a container, it is more capacious and mixing the solution allows you to perform more carefully. As practice has shown, the solution is better mixed in a barrel fixed in opposite corners.

Details and device

The following components are used:

• Iron barrel of suitable size. Some craftsmen adapt plastic containers for these purposes.
• Frame. There are no restrictions - full scope for imagination. The main thing is that it is convenient to pour out your finished solution.
• A shaft that supports a container that can support the weight of a barrel of cement.
• Bearings.
• Pen. The longer it is, the easier it is to rotate the shaft.
• Handle.
• Cover for draining the finished solution.
• Clips that hold the lid to the neck.
• Seals.
• Hinges for opening the lid.

How a do-it-yourself concrete mixer from a barrel works is clearly shown in the following video:

Combined concrete mixers

The most common devices - the solution is mixed due to gravitational influence, plus breaking up lumps with blades or pins welded to the body of the barrel. Suitable for making arbolite with your own hands. They require more time to prepare the solution than forced mixers, but have an extensive list of advantages:

• The design is as simple as possible, reliable and unpretentious in operation.
• Less force is generated on the shaft that rotates the barrel, which allows the use of not as powerful electric motors as for forced mixing. As a result - significantly less wear on components.
• It is not required to seal any joints - the solution is mixed inside the barrel, and all the nodes of the mechanism are outside.
• It is possible to mix solutions with any size fractions of crushed stone, expanded clay and other fillers.

The simplest combined manual concrete mixer made by hand from iron barrel- this is the same manual concrete mixer, but with blades or combs welded from the inside. If necessary, an electric motor can be connected to it.

Self-manufacturing

A factory-made or do-it-yourself concrete mixer consists of three main components: a bucket in which the mortar is mixed, a frame for attaching the components and a drive - manual or electric (in some cases motors from a moped or scooter are used).

In the video, a home-made tub for combined mixing of the solution is installed on a T-16 tractor:

Solution bucket

First, you need to consider its size, given that it will be loaded by 30-40%. No more, as the solution will splash out and mix poorly.

Secondly, attention should be paid to the shape - it should be pear-shaped. From above, so that water and mortar do not splash out, from below - so that concrete particles do not clog into the corners between the wall and the bottom.

This tub is almost ready plastic barrel the right sizes- in addition to the fact that it fits in shape, its weight will be an additional plus.

Alternatively, a concrete mixer can be made from a washing machine - if an old Soviet round “washer” is lying around in the attic, then a laundry tank is removed from it, which is specially designed to have liquid spinning inside it. The bottom is strengthened, the top is narrowed and the tank is ready.

If there is nothing suitable, then a pear for a concrete mixer can be made from steel sheet, with a cross section of 2-3 mm. For the bottom, you should take a thicker metal - about 5 mm - the main load from the drive will go to it.

With a diameter of 500 mm and a height of 400, a compact bucket is obtained, in which, nevertheless, 30 liters of solution can be prepared at a time.

The following drawings will tell you more about the design:

It is possible to make a quality pear for a concrete mixer without using the blades. In the diagram shown, instead of them, mortar dividers from 16 mm reinforcing bar are welded inside the tank, which additionally strengthen the structure. This design is an excellent mixer for wood concrete.

Fastening to the shaft occurs through the hub from the car wheel, which is welded or screwed to the bottom. If car parts not lying around in the garage, then the fasteners will have to be made manually according to the drawing.

Carrier frame

In its design, there can be a variety of variations - here absolute freedom actions, the main rule of its manufacture is that it securely holds all the components and gives free access for loading and unloading concrete.

The main differences in engineering are in the method of pouring the finished solution, for which the tub itself is made movable, or the entire frame is designed in a certain way.

For a bucket made of steel sheet, a frame that provides it with an inclination will be optimal. The container itself is connected to the gearbox drive (15), to which the force comes from the engine (17) through the clutch (16).

All this is mounted on a subframe (18) and rotates on a hinge (14). For different types solutions, the working slope of the bucket can be adjusted, for which an eyelet (22) is welded to the subframe, through which a sector (10) passes, held in the desired position by a pin (23).

The main provisions of the sector need at least three:

Slope 50% - for heavy solutions.

Slope 30% - for light mixtures (for example, plaster).

Horizontal position for rinsing the container.

Electric motor and gearbox

Rarely, these parts are bought separately - the easiest way is to use what is at hand. The electric motor is suitable from the washing machine, circuit diagram from the same place, and the gearboxes are assembled from bicycle wheels, belt or chain gears. The closest thing to the factory design is a flywheel welded to the bottom, which spins from the “native” Benedix of an automobile starter mounted on a shaft.

All calculations are made based on the following considerations:

• Engine power is selected according to the ratio of 20 watts per liter of solution.
• The number of revolutions that the gearbox produces for the tub should be in the range of 30-50 per minute. A smaller amount will increase mixing time, and a larger amount will splatter the solution or even cause centrifugal forces, due to which mixing will not occur.

Briefly about the main

A self-assembled manual concrete mixer is a completely solvable task for a person who knows how to properly work with a welding machine and has the skills of plumbing.

If a do-it-yourself mixer is made from a barrel, then you can pick up a plastic container that is already completely ready for installation.

When assembling, you need to remember about the power of the engine, optimal amount revolutions and careful centering of the mechanism.

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How to make a concrete mixer with your own hands? What materials and tools are needed for this? Many people who need a homemade concrete mixer try to make one from what they have at home.

This unit is needed for concrete works on suburban area or during the construction of various buildings. Many people cannot afford to buy branded machines, which is why people make concrete mixers with their own hands. Some of these structures, which are relatively easy to manufacture, will be discussed below.

How does a homemade concrete mixer work?

In practice, 4 main methods of mixing the solution are used:

1. Gravitational.
2. Mechanical.
3. Forced vibration.
4. Combined.

In the first method, the container with the components rotates cement-sand mixture and mixing occurs under the influence of gravitational forces. With this method, a large volume of mortar cannot be kneaded, and the quality of the concrete at the output is slightly more than satisfactory. Therefore, this method is not widely used. But a do-it-yourself concrete mixer made according to this method may well be suitable for a small amount of work.

With the vibration method of mixing the mortar, the machine body does not move, and the mixer equipped with a vibrator creates a compression wave in the mixture of sand and cement. It turns out concrete High Quality. But this method also has a significant drawback - high energy consumption. For example, to get 18-22 liters of solution, you need a drive Electrical engine power 1.3-1.5 kW.

Mechanical mixing of the material in pure form do not apply, but are used in a combined method together with gravity. Such a homemade concrete mixer consists of a vessel that rotates in a horizontal or inclined plane. Protrusions are made inside the structure, which mix the solution. Such designs attract DIYers because of the ease of manufacture. Therefore, these types of units are mainly described below.

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How to make a simple manual homemade concrete mixer?

Its operation scheme is clear from Fig. 1. In this design, you can mix any, even a “dry” solution. It can be done by anyone who has experience using simple tools. It is assembled in 2-3 hours. Here is a guide to making such a unit:

1. An old milk can or boiled water is taken.
2. If there is a crack or fistula in it, then they are eliminated by electric welding.
3. A piece of pipe is threaded into the handle of the lid of the vessel and tightly tied with a rope to the handles of the can. You can also use a rubber band.
4. To fix the vessel on the axis, it is welded to it. If it is made of aluminum, then it is necessary to make holding elements. For them, strips of metal 7 mm thick are used. The vessel is attached to them with screws.
5. In the frame it is necessary to cut holes in the form latin letter U.
6. The axle is placed in them.

If a barrel is used, then a horizontal unit can be made. To do this, a hatch is made in its side part for pouring the mixture, and the vessel itself is strengthened directly on the axis. The unit is installed on legs steel pipes.

This design will rotate slowly, but the concrete will be well mixed. The only drawback that such a homemade concrete mixer has is the mixing time of the solution, from 4 to 20 minutes. Compared with the use of a shovel, this design has 4 times greater productivity. Rotating the axle manually is a bit tedious, so you can connect an electric motor through a gearbox or belt drive. Its power should be 2.5 kW with a vessel volume of 50 liters.

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How to make a homemade concrete mixer with forced mixing?

This device will consist of such nodes as:

1. Tub - made from old barrel, the walls of which must be rounded with a sledgehammer. This is necessary so that cement and sand do not accumulate in the corners of the vessel. For small portions of the solution, the tub can be made from 2 basins. In general, you can take plastic vessels. They are fastened around the rim with a steel tape, which is pulled together with a screw. The bottom of one basin must be cut out so that the solution can be loaded and unloaded.
2. Steel ring gear (buy it).
3. Automotive flywheel.
4. Starter gear from the car.
5. Wheel hub.

This drive works like this. The flywheel rotates on its axis, and the bucket moves with it. The second end of the axle is fixed with bearing No. 208-210, which is inserted into the coupling located in the hub. You can also make a vertical version.

To do this, a working vessel is bolted to the wheel, and the flywheel is welded to the hub. Then the clutch with bearings is attached to the flywheel, and an additional part is needed to fasten the neck of the vessel.

This design can be connected through a gearbox to an electric motor - the result is an electric concrete mixer. The rotation speed is selected within 25-55 rpm. If the speed is increased, splashing of the solution may occur. Engine power is selected as follows: per liter of solution 20-25 watts. To be able to provide these indicators, you can use a belt drive. If we assume that the tub has a volume of 200 liters, then you need a 1.3 kW electric motor. This unit gives good quality concrete mix and allows you to greatly speed up the construction process.

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How to make a concrete mixer from a washing machine?

Any old car can do this. It is important that she has an activator at the bottom of the case. It must be replaced, mounted on a shaft that is suitable in size. There is a thread inside the washing tub. Staples (nuts) are fixed on it, which are made in the form of the letter "P". It is also necessary to make a structure from a steel strip with blades that turn 90 degrees. All these parts must be arranged symmetrically so that there are no beats during operation. Drainer must be silenced. Such an electric home-made concrete mixer has a small capacity, but it is quite suitable for small jobs. If desired, you can make an inclined unit. To do this, weld a frame of steel pipes, which has an inclined platform. Channels are welded onto it, and bolted to them washing machine. The design works in the same way as the vertical version.

For the improvement of a summer cottage, you often need cement mortar or concrete. Masters are faced with a choice - to knead by hand (and this is difficult and inefficient, since the solution quickly hardens) or to purchase an industrial concrete mixer, which is unjustified during irregular work. Therefore, many summer residents prefer to make a concrete mixer with their own hands, as it is easy and expedient.

Principles of mixing concrete

There are several mixing options. mortar in a concrete mixer. Namely:

• gravity method.
• Forced mechanical.
• Forced vibration.
• Combined gravitational-mechanical.

The easiest way to cook concrete mortar- this is mixing with a shovel in a fixed trough. The most unjustified and low-quality way. Not only does the solution itself quickly solidify, it is also problematic to mix the mixture until a homogeneous mass.

Sometimes craftsmen stir the solution with a drill with a mixer attachment in a bucket. This option is somewhat better, but has its own very serious drawbacks. First of all, the drill is not designed for continuous continuous operation, with all the ensuing consequences. In addition, the technology of this type of mixing requires constant rotation and movement of the tool in the mixture. It's unreliable, complicated and tedious.

Gravity mixing

With the gravitational method, the bucket with the solution loosens or rolls over, and the solution mixes itself. That is, the components move independently in containers under the influence of gravity. Quality finished products not very good and high volume is hard to achieve. However, many masters living conditions this mixing option is used.

The advantage of this type of mixing is the simplicity of the design of the concrete mixer. Therefore, devices of this type are often created in garages, cottages and small businesses.

Forced mechanical

Forced-mechanical method is the simplest and most common. His distinguishing feature This is a stationary container. The components are most often kneaded by a mechanical drive in a drum. The drum may be horizontal or vertical. The essence of this method is clearly revealed by the example of using a drill in a bucket.

With limited volumes, this method may be justified, but it has its own characteristics:

Combined type of mixing

Many made homemade concrete mixers do it yourself using a combined method. It simultaneously combines the previous two methods and has a number of advantages:

• There is no need to tightly seal the rotation nodes, since there is no contact with the solution. The top of the drum is not closed.
• Details of structures of this type last longer, since the mechanism is reliable and simple.
• The composition of the component can be anything, up to gravel, gravel, expanded clay, and so on.

vibration method

Recently, the vibratory method of preparing concrete is gaining popularity. This method allows high-quality mixing of large volumes of the mixture and is used in cases where it is necessary to produce a reinforced concrete part with excellent and accurate operational parameters.

In principle, vibratory mixing can mix components almost perfectly. The only limitation is the preparation of a "heavy" solution. To use this type of mixing, significant energy costs are required. Approximately twenty liters of the mixture require a vibrator power of 1.3 kilowatts. In domestic conditions, instead of a drive and a gearbox, a very powerful hammer drill is used. There is no need to press the cartridge, and the vibrations must be independent.

Drawings and designs of concrete mixers

Before starting the assembly, you need to prepare a working tool, decide on the materials and prepare a container of the required volume. It is not recommended to select a small container, since the solution in it may freeze before the required time, and if the prepared mixture is not enough, then the whole process will have to be repeated again. The optimal volume of the container is two hundred liters.

The general requirement is the strength, reliability and stability of the structure. It is necessary to make such structures as responsibly as possible, since the slightest miscalculation or inaccuracy will lead to breakage or even injury to the employee.

The simplest concrete mixer from a can

In case of saving electricity and time, you can collect manual concrete mixer from an ordinary milk can. The whole assembly process takes several hours. and the most crucial moment is the welding of the frame. A little patience - and a simple gravity concrete mixing equipment is ready.

For the manufacture of this concrete mixer, you will need a can itself or another similar container, several pipes or thick rods.

Despite the simplicity of the design, even a dry screed concentrate can be mixed in a can. The axis inside the can cuts through the mixture during rotation.

Procedure:

The coupling can be omitted, thereby further simplifying the design. Instead of couplings, you can cut arcuate recesses and place the axle in them. The rotation will be uneven and creaky, but it will knead well. For one cycle of work in a forty-liter can, about three buckets of solution are obtained. Sometimes a barrel is used instead of a can. This raises the problem of how to fix the cover. This issue is solved in an original way if the handles are attached to a barrel without a lid at different levels. One end of the handle is near the bottom, the other is near the top. As a result, the container is placed at an obtuse angle with respect to the surface of the earth and the solution does not pour out during rotation. But the quality of the batch with this method suffers.

Barrel concrete mixer

A do-it-yourself homemade concrete mixer from a barrel can replace factory model and mix evenly good mix. All the materials needed for assembly can be found in the garage or summer cottage. The unit can be either manual or mechanical.

Scroll necessary details for assembly:

From the tools you need a grinder to cut the metal, and a welding machine to firmly connect the parts.

After preparatory work the question of how to make a concrete mixer with your own hands is no longer a question.

First, the barrel is centered and put on the axle. Then they are constructed internal elements to help mix the concrete.

Using a drill or welding device, two holes are drilled at the top and bottom of the barrel. A metal axis with a diameter of thirty millimeters is pulled through them, and this design is tightly welded. Thus, the shaft and the tub are securely attached to each other.

A rectangle is cut in the center of the barrel along the long edge. It will be a hatch for backfilling the components of the solution. The approximate dimensions of the hatch are approximately ninety by thirty centimeters. In the case of a small hatch, it will be inconvenient to use it. And if it is made too large, then the strength of the structure will decrease.

Blades are constructed from a metal square and fixed in a barrel. One side is welded to the wall, and the other to the axis. For good mixing, four or five blades are enough, evenly spaced inside the barrel.

The rectangle obtained from cutting out the hatch is welded to the hinges that are attached to the barrel. The result should be a closed hatch. After that, a latch or latch is attached to the hatch cover. The main task The lid is not open while the device is in operation.

Then the frame is welded. A second length of fifty millimeters is welded to a long channel. The same is done with the second support.

A pipe is welded to the other edge of the channel, into which the axle of the concrete mixer will be inserted.

Then, when the metal axle enters the bushings, retaining rings are welded at both ends. Their role is played by thick metal washers.

After that, the steering wheel is welded to one of the edges of the axle.

If going electric model, then it is necessary to assemble and connect the appropriate assembly, consisting of a motor and a drive system.

Tricks of operating homemade devices

According to the principle of operation, home-made concrete mixers are similar to industrial designs and perform the same functions. But to get comfort, home devices need to be operated a little differently.

Tips for work:

During assembly and operation improvised designs Don't forget about safety precautions. This applies to the rules for working with power tools and conventional equipment. Following the usual simple instructions will prevent unpleasant situations and avoid injury.