Staircase to the second floor with your own hands. Wooden staircase with your own hands. Steps to the second floor. Features of spiral staircases How to make a wooden staircase with your own hands
Modern a private house must be equipped with a ladder for movement to the upper floors or attic space and the usual stepladder is unlikely to fit here. It is necessary to build something more reliable and durable. For example, a staircase made of solid wood. wooden stairs with your own hands will require special care at all stages of its manufacture.
Advantages
Wood is the most environmentally friendly and easiest to process material that does not require special processing skills. It can be used both for intra-apartment structures and for the porch of a house. Stairs on metal frame are considered much more reliable, but now we are not talking about them.
Completely wooden structures that can be assembled as a constructor have the following advantages:
- acceptable price;
- the availability of the material;
- easy processing.
The most common material is pine. This is an inexpensive soft wood, well suited for beginners. The disadvantage of pine is the softness of the texture, due to which, during operation, the structure may begin to darken, and the steps creak, if the necessary wood processing is not carried out before the start of construction or a porch made of similar material.
When building a more reliable, beautiful and durable staircase, it is better to use expensive varieties. Stairs made of solid beech, oak or larch have an inimitable structure and increased wear resistance due to their density this material. The only drawback of these breeds is the high price.
Design
How to do wooden stairs for a porch or for a house made of solid oak, pine, ash and larch? Before studying the manufacturing instructions, talking about the frame and components, you need to figure out what types of wooden structures you can assemble with your own hands. Conventionally, marching and spiral staircases can be distinguished.
Screw structures are used in rooms with limited space. These structures are not suitable for moving large objects and can only be used for human movement. Such a staircase will never be completely wooden, since the support (rod, pipe) is made of metal.
Marching stairs are the simplest in execution. This kind of wooden structures on stringers or bowstrings are mounted both indoors and outdoors (mainly for the porch, which, as a rule, is located on a metal frame). At internal installation the main criterion is ergonomics. That is why it is not so important which staircase will be built in your room - one-flight, two-flight with a platform, or a design with winder steps. It is worth noting that it is not much more difficult than a straight line.
The main thing is that it fits perfectly into the space allotted to it and harmonizes in style with the engineering elements surrounding it. A wooden staircase inside the house is, first of all, warmth and comfort. These are not unpretentious stairs for the porch and not welded structures on a metal frame. To choose the right type of staircase design, you need to measure the area on which the staircase will be located. Then make initial calculations and draw drawings. A detailed drawing will show the location of the structure in the room and how ergonomic it will be.
Elements
Making wooden stairs from solid wood will require some knowledge about the elements of stair structures. Let's understand the terminology.
- A bowstring is a supporting beam and an element of additional fasteners for steps located at the end of the latter.
- Stringers are the most common way of manufacturing wooden staircases. In the bearing parallel beams, cuts are made, on which the treads are laid.
- Treads - the surface of the step.
- Riser - the vertical part of the step, mounted (if necessary) between the steps, closing the visible space.
- Balusters - an element of the fence, gives the structure additional rigidity and strength. Attaches to stairs and railings.
- Poles (or support rod) - are installed mainly during the installation of screw structures as the main (central) bearing element.
- Railing - part of the enclosing structure of the stairs, mounted on top of balusters or fastening spokes.
- Decorative elements - decorative overlays, plugs.
On bowstrings or stringers?
Stairs for the house on bowstrings and stringers are equally simple when self-manufacturing. You should understand the difference between them. The bowstrings are fastened from the end of the tread with the help of corners, grooves and wood glue or with the help of bars. All this is fastened with self-tapping screws or bolted connections.
Stringers are located under the steps and are fastened with special fastening fittings.
For the production of bowstrings and stringers, blanks from solid oak, ash, pine and larch are most often used. These tree species are most common in the vastness of our country. For the manufacture of load-bearing elements at woodworking enterprises, machines are used that dissolve logs into unedged board the required thickness (and the bearing parts are at least 50 mm), when trimmed, the finished beam is formed (50x50, 50x100, etc.). If you decide to assemble the design on bowstrings with your own hands, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with.
Milling bowstring under the steps
Making a kosour
Calculation
To make accurate calculations and draw up a drawing.
- The angle of inclination of the stairs should not exceed 45 degrees.
- The depth of the tread should not be less than 250mm.
- The height of the riser is in the range of 160-200mm.
- The minimum opening width is 1000mm.
- The height of the railings (handrails) should not exceed 1000mm. For children, additional handrails are installed at a height of 600mm.
- The vertical opening should not be lower than 2000mm.
Applying these simple rules you can build a correct and convenient staircase for the house or for the porch.
Important!
It should be remembered that the topmost step should be flush with the floor of the second floor, this applies to both concrete and wooden floors.
Marking and manufacturing of elements
Consider detailed instructions about how to make a wooden staircase for the house. After detailed calculations and analysis of the drawing, you can proceed to the layout and manufacture of structural elements.
- We apply markings on bowstrings or stringers. For this it is convenient to use right triangle or a special corner with marked legs (riser height and tread width).
- We measure the length of steps and risers, as well as other elements that we will cut out ourselves.
- We cut out all the elements of the staircase structure using an electric saw.
- We sand all the wooden blanks of the stairs.
- If there is no opening for passage to the second floor, it must be organized by dismantling part of the floor.
Assembly and installation instructions
Assembling stairs for the house wooden stringers or bowstrings begins with the installation of load-bearing elements. Rigid fixation at the top and bottom points made with the help of corners, threaded connections, or anchors (depending on the floor and floor material). Before final fixing load-bearing structures It would be nice to once again check the coincidence of the horizons. To do this, use the level laid on the horizontal "cuts" (the place of attachment of the future tread). If the stringers were cut according to one pattern, then you should not worry too much. So do not be lazy during the assembly process once again look into the drawing and keep a measuring tool at hand.
Log ladder
Quite often the question arises: “Is it possible to make a ladder out of a log?”. Of course you can. It cannot be made from just one log. Let's look at the options.
The logs are sawn in half. Steps and load-bearing parts will subsequently be made from these blanks (one might say massive “bowstrings”). For convenience, let's turn to simple project- straight stairs. After processing the front side with an electric planer and an emery wheel, we proceed to marking inside. Steps and fasteners will be fixed to it (the steel corner is the most suitable option for such a massive structure, it is fastened with a threaded connection or anchor).
We install our bowstrings, fixing them on the ceiling and on the floor. In accordance with the markup, we attach bars to the bowstrings with self-tapping screws that will support our steps from half-logs (choose the width yourself). Immediately before fixing, we check the level of the horizon of each step. We drill a hole through the bowstring to the end of the step, while not allowing it to move. We lay the anchor and tighten it until it stops. There are four anchors per step. Little secret fasteners - for greater reliability, drip inside the drilled hole silicone sealant, and then already lay the anchor. head anchor bolt can be hidden away.
For the installation of such a ladder, you can use and threaded connections with the organization of hidden “windows” in the steps for tightening elements, but this requires serious skills in working with wood. Such a construction from a log is much more reliable. You can also make steps for a porch staircase from a log, which is also very interesting.
Some make it out of one whole log create something remotely resembling a ladder, laying it at the right angle, and cutting into it, like steps. It would be more correct to lay two logs in parallel as load-bearing stringers, make cuts in them for steps and attach the latter to the load-bearing parts. So you can make a ladder out of a log. It remains to be added that such a structure, if done correctly, will be no worse than concrete ones in terms of reliability. As you can see, marching structures are quite simple to install. If we talk about screw, then everything is somewhat more complicated. However, you can install.
Do-it-yourself log ladder
Finished product processing
All elements of the ladder structure are securely fixed and sanded. It remains only to process the surface of the porch or stairs for the house by special means protection from insects, from decay and to give a beautiful appearance.
Intra-house stairs should harmoniously fit into the interior of the room. Therefore, a varnish coating is used to process these structures. If necessary, the stairs can be tinted in suitable shades colored varnish, stain or bleach (this technique is now very popular).
The whole processing process can be divided into three main processes:
- grinding;
- primer;
- varnish protection.
Advice!
When choosing materials for processing, it is better to give preference to alkyd and urethane varnishes.
It is very good to process the porch of a wooden house with drying oil applied in several layers. This will prevent the structure from rotting, and extend its life.
For a beginner without certain skills in working with a tool, it will not be easy to build a staircase on your own. However, it is possible. The main thing is to correctly calculate and accurately mark the structural elements. Installing precisely calibrated parts will not be a big hassle.
Professional manufacturing and installation of wooden stairs
About Tom, with your own hands for the stairs and for the porch.
When building a house, it often becomes necessary to build a ladder. After all, most projects involve the presence of a second floor. Stairs between floors can be built from different materials. However, the tree is one of the most simple, environmentally friendly and convenient. Even a beginner can handle this material.
Of course, the work will take some time. However, the work will quickly pay off, because a design made with a soul will serve long years to the delight of the owners. In addition, building a ladder with your own hands is a significant cost savings.
Types of wooden stairs
In total, there are two main types of wooden stairs:
- screw;
- marching.
Mid-flight stairs are the simplest, so it is best for a beginner in construction to start building such a structure. Spiral staircases are very complex, they require careful calculations and measurements. One mistake - and the design may fail.
Marching stairs are divided, in turn, into two varieties: one-flight and two-flight. Both varieties are not so difficult to make them yourself.
Straight staircase
Before you make a wooden staircase with your own hands, you need to purchase materials and prepare tools.
From the materials you need to take:
- thick boards (they will go on the steps);
- bars of a sufficiently large cross section (about 40 mm);
- screws.
Before you make a wooden staircase, you must definitely consider its design on paper.
It would be very unreasonable to build without a drawing, therefore, before erecting a staircase, it is necessary to take measurements and make a rough plan.
When measuring, you need to take into account:
- the height of the stairs;
- angle of inclination of the structure;
- the number of steps;
- width.
You can make a similar scheme in electronic form. There are special computer applications, which allow you to create such models. Professional software for construction purposes may even have a 3D function. However, this is not at all necessary - to create such good example when calculating a simple staircase.
Bowstring or kosour?
A simple mid-flight ladder can be mounted on stringers or bowstrings. The difference is that the bowstrings are located on the side of the steps, and the stringers are located under the steps.
A simple marching staircase, as a rule, has two side bowstrings. Steps are attached on both sides. The construction described here will be arranged in this way.
Installation
Stair painting
The whole process of painting stairs can be divided into three parts:
- Preparation;
- painting;
- protection (varnish layer).
First you need to prepare each element of the stairs for painting. This implies two types of work: puttying and grinding. Putty is made with special mixtures that are designed exclusively for wood. It is forbidden to use compounds that do not fit the tree.
When the putty layer is dry, you can start sanding the surfaces. Grinding is done in two stages. The first stage is rough, superficial. After that, you have to wait a couple of days. Very soon it will become noticeable that the villi rise on the surface of the wood. Before the second grinding, they must be blown with air.
After sanding, the board becomes perfectly even and smooth. Now you can start applying the coating.
When the surface of the stairs is ready for coating, you need to decide what it will be. Before you paint a wooden staircase with paint, you need to apply a primer coat. It is better to choose a primer to match the coloring composition.
The choice of paint is best made among alkyd and urethane types of coating. They are ideal for painting stairs. From flowers, it is preferable to take something light.
If there is a desire, then stain can be used instead of paint. The advantage of wood stain is that it perfectly emphasizes the unique pattern of wood. The stairs will look just great. Natural drawing is always preferable. Why hide it with coloring compositions when it can serve as an ornament in itself.
The stain can be chosen along with the varnish. When buying, it is advisable not to save. After all, the better the composition, the longer the structure itself will last. Stain - not only decorative trim. This composition perfectly protects against various factors.
When the paint has dried, the surface is applied finishing layer varnish. It is better to choose a matte varnish, a semi-matt variety is also suitable. Lacquering is carried out in the case of stairs in three stages. The composition is applied three times, and before each new application, the previous layer should dry well. If bubbles form on the varnish, then they must be sanded.
If you still want to make a spiral staircase in the house, then you can try the simplest installation option. The advantage of this design is that it significantly saves space.
When building, it is important to consider that the stairs are not too steep. If there are elderly people and small children in the house, then it is wiser to abandon such a design, because it can be dangerous.
The easiest way to install a spiral staircase is to buy a ready-made, already measured kit, and simply mount it. Savings on installation will also bring significant benefits.
The design of a spiral staircase consists of three main elements: racks, railings and steps. Steps are better to choose oak. They are not only one of the most durable, but also have high aesthetic characteristics. Bog and thermo oak also look very good.
Before buying, you need to measure the dimensions of the future staircase in order to choose the design exactly for your home. A more expensive option is to hire a specialist who will measure everything himself, and then place an order for the design. If you have the skills to work in construction, you can make the steps yourself by ordering only a rack and a railing. Most often, racks with railings are metal, but there are also wooden varieties.
Ladder device
- Steps on one side have a place for attaching to the rack. On the other side there is a hole for the railing.
- The stand is usually metal. It has a flange to which steps are attached.
- The most simple design spiral staircase - "in duck step". Here it is assumed special form steps.
- The rack is mounted between floors. It is attached to the floor with anchor bolts.
- When the rack is installed, you can begin the installation of steps. The distance between them should not exceed 20 cm. This is necessary for security reasons.
The spiral staircase also has many decorative details. Moreover, each set can have its own decorations and various fastening elements. When installing a conventional mid-flight staircase, the calculation is carried out differently, the geometry of the opening here is rectangular. At a spiral staircase, the stairwell is a circle.
Video
You can learn more about the process of building wooden stairs in the following videos:
If you still decide to order the manufacture of wooden stairs to the second floor, please contact a trusted company, with good reviews, compare wooden stairs prices. Buy ready-made stairs or make your own, it's up to you.
It is easy to build a simple staircase. However, there are a few things to keep in mind before embarking on this job.
The staircase must be thought out and included in the project. Leave it for later and do it anyway. Very often you can hear the phrase from summer residents: we practically do not use the attic or the second floor. In fact, you go up there a couple of times steep stairs, almost a stepladder, no longer pull. This is where you come up with excuses.
The ladder should be comfortable for its owner. The proportions of the step (width and height) determine the steepness of the stairs, and the width of the step itself ensures the safe placement of a person's foot on it. Obviously, all these parameters are quite individual, they are largely determined by the complexion of the person who will use the stairs. A ladder suitable for an adult can be dangerous for a child. In particular, the lack of risers for small children can lead to injury.
The optimal slope of the right ladder for a person of average build is from 30 to 45 degrees, given that the width of the step is about 30 cm (at least 25). It's conditional. In my opinion, when deciding on the proportions and size of the steps of the future staircase, it’s more correct to take a ruler and measure these parameters on stairs that are comfortable for you and that you often use.
Based on the initial data - the exact distance from the floor of the first floor to the floor of the second floor, then taking into account the dimensions of the steps acceptable to you, you can determine the number of steps on your flight of stairs. Naturally, the number of steps is an integer and the numbers will have to be adjusted.
For example, you have a height from floor to floor - 290 cm, the desired step height is 20 cm, it turns out 14.5 steps. This means that you will have to make either 14 steps, each 20.71 cm high, or 15 steps, 19.33 cm each. Alas, it is inconvenient to count, but the steps should be the same.
To accommodate such a staircase in the interior, you need to imagine how much space it will take. Obviously, the projection of the flight of stairs on the plan of the house will be equal to the width of the step, multiplied by the number of steps minus one (the last step is the floor surface of the second floor). At the same time, in order to save money, you need to compress the width of the step, which is undesirable, this will make the stairs steeper and more inconvenient (although for many summer residents, saving the internal area of \u200b\u200bthe room is a weighty argument.
The width of the flight of stairs less than 70 cm is strongly discouraged.
In the examples we are considering, we will lay the meter.
But you still need a free platform from below, where to start the ascent, and from above, where the ascent ends? The width of such a platform cannot be less than the width of the flight of stairs, and the minimum reasonable shape of such platforms is a square. It turns out that at the beginning and end of the flight of stairs, we need another 2 m2 of space for our stairs, plus steps ...
Maybe you can save on the shape of the stairs? Here is an example with the three most common simple forms stairs that are easy to make yourself.
When making this calculation, I proceeded from the initial data accepted above (for example), and also from the fact that with a height of 260, on the first and second floors, you can save no more than “two steps each” due to interior design. When climbing, starting from the third step, a person can hit the ceiling with his head - therefore, this area on the second floor, from the useful one, is subtracted. There shouldn't be any overlap.
The illustration shows that the most "profitable" is a simple straight staircase. In the L-shaped occupied area increases due to the appearance of a platform instead of a step, in a U-shaped staircase such a platform is at least twice as large. Moreover, the intermediate platform captures usable area twice: on the first and second floors.
In practice, the shape of the stairs can be any, if it fits beautifully and efficiently into the interior. And given the existing layouts, the most common is U-shaped staircase. In addition, a closet or a toilet can be accommodated in a country house under a flight of stairs. It is convenient to use the intermediate platform “like a box” for storing household equipment and tools. There are many options. You saw it yourself, you know.
IN frame house the bowstring of the stairs can serve to strengthen the structure. This is an excellent natural triangular stiffener - slope. Not using this opportunity is an unacceptable luxury.
The flight of stairs is made (from wood) in two main ways: steps along the bowstring, and steps along the stringer.
It is my firm belief that in both cases you cannot rely on an accurate drawing unless you (and I, too) are an expert. high class in this area (I only share my practical experience). It is more convenient to make all final marks on the "terrain" and in a real situation. If you do everything according to the drawing, then errors by millimeters, or even whole centimeters, can appear from the most unexpected side.
The bowstring needs to be “debugged so that it lies in its place with precise cuts on both sides, without gaps. To do this, I made a template from a thin board, from which, millimeter by millimeter, I removed the excess, until it ideally lay down in the place allotted for it, as I wanted. Then I did a preliminary markup on it. I applied another template - steps with a riser, and watched what happened. Sometimes I had to build up templates.
When the result completely satisfied me, then I sawed out the main product from a high-quality, beautiful board. A little longer but guaranteed result. How you fix the bowstring relative to the ceiling will depend on how the steps will lie in it: whether they will protrude outward, or hide behind the bowstring. And this appearance stairs.
After the bowstring is installed and temporarily stuck with screws (in invisible places), you can cleanly mark the steps.
At the level of the second floor, the bowstring can be firmly attached to the supporting beam interfloor overlap. If possible, then in this place it is useful to link the structure with the rack internal partition"B" (if any), with a column so that it goes into a pole for attaching future railings. You can mount a pole without a rack, but it is desirable to link it with a beam. This post will carry a lot of weight. No less important is the nodal column "C" (or its analogues for other forms of stairs). If you make it in advance, as a protruding element of the box frame for the intermediate platform, then such a base for the railing will be incomparably stronger. It probably makes sense to make the outer bowstring, where the railing will be located, thicker. It will be easier to “embed” balusters into it.
Finally, the bowstring must be firmly installed, it is better that it be made with various tie-ins, and that it can be held without fasteners, on one stop, although I would not risk it without reliable fasteners.
How to mark the steps along the bowstring can be seen from the figure. On this stage these will be horizontal marking lines corresponding to the plane of future steps. In fact, these lines divide the height of the flight of stairs into equal intervals according to the number of steps. Based on the results of such marking, it is possible to finally clarify the width of the steps (and the dimensions of the risers). Will the steps hang over each other or not.
When exact dimensions steps are defined, their location within the horizontal markings can be noted. That is, apply “vertical” markings to the bowstring. This marking ensures that the projections of the steps on the floor are of equal size throughout the entire flight of stairs. Labels can be set to indicate the front, rear edge of the step. How convenient. They can protrude behind the bowstring or hide behind it - everything will depend on how you set it up (while you were playing with the template). Only minor adjustments are currently possible. To radically change the position of the steps relative to the bowstring, you need to rearrange it. Therefore, I pay such great attention to working with a template. The drawing will not give you the same real picture as the template.
Steps can be made by hand. Boards on PVA glue, firmly tightened with screws, through carefully drilled holes across the board 150x50. It turns out dies 300x50. Then they are planed and trimmed. Sturdy, pretty, and cheap.
It is convenient and reliable to fasten the steps with special wide corners. First, screw corners on 2 screws in right place With reverse side steps, then start fastening them (in my final version, the fasteners will not be visible from the outside). Special options fasteners can be viewed on the Internet. The method I recommend is the simplest and “sturdiest” - the ladder does not move, not that it creaks!
Railings and balusters can be made by yourself, you can buy. There is a choice. If there is no special equipment, then it is more reasonable to buy. First, the railings are fitted to the posts and marked out to the balusters so that everything looks level and vertical. It is not necessary to fasten the railing tightly. It is more convenient to do it simultaneously with balusters. You can fasten in different ways, but it is more beautiful when the fasteners are not visible, that is, with notches. Depending on the shape of the balusters, the cuts can be round (chisel drills) or square (chisels).
If you have to drill vertical holes on an inclined bowstring, it is useful to make a guide template. In a rectangular box correct form we drill a vertical hole, then we cut this block at the same angle at which we have a bowstring. The resulting template is applied to the bowstring and drilled.
In addition to the bowstring, steps can be attached to the stringer.
With the insertion of steps into the "saddle", the staircase turns out to be very beautiful. Additionally, the steps can be pulled with decorative bolts. There is an option to fix the steps on overhead consoles, although in this case there is a risk of cracks in the console due to big amount fasteners. You can come up with a lot of template for cutting out seats under the saddle. For creativity, there is where to turn around. The main thing is not to rush to mark the future kosour under the steps, you will have to cut a lot and accurately, so the saying: measure seven times ... it will be more appropriate here than ever.
It should be borne in mind that the kosour can be significantly weakened by excessive drinking. It can be strengthened from the inside by putting additional bars under the steps along the stringers so that they are not particularly conspicuous. You can generally install three stringers instead of two. If you choose a kosour, then think in advance how the railing will be made. As an option, it is beautiful to fasten the balusters to the protruding steps with a notch (with a decorative screw at the bottom). It will be strong and airy.
Ladder- this is one of the main elements of the interior design of the room, therefore, when designing it, attention should be paid not only to reliability and functionality, but also to the appearance. Before taking on making a wooden staircase with your own hands, it is necessary to take into account a large number of factors on which not only its design, but also its dimensions will depend.
These factors include:
- accessible room area,
- height,
- maximum load for which the ladder is designed,
- ease of use for people living in the house.
To date, there are a huge number of options for the execution of interfloor stairs, so choosing the right design is a rather difficult task.
Choosing which staircase to build
Stairs marching and spiral. The design of the mid-flight stairs is quite simple and is the best choice, if you plan to make it yourself, however, in order to provide an acceptable slope and height of the steps, a considerable area is required. This ladder is very easy to use and can withstand heavy loads. It can easily lift furniture and other large items to the second floor, in addition, it is safer, so it will be the best choice if children or the elderly live in the house.
The spiral staircase has a more complex device. It is used in conditions of limited space, when, due to lack of space, it is not possible to provide a safe slope for an ordinary staircase. The main disadvantages include a not very convenient design, which makes it difficult to lift and does not allow you to carry large items. At the same time, a skillfully executed spiral staircase has sufficient strength and can be the main element of the interior.
Safety above all!
Before proceeding to making stairs with your own hands need to take care of its safety. First, it must be strong and easily withstand a load several times greater than the weight of a person of average build. Secondly, the ladder should be comfortable and ergonomic. IN this case great attention must be paid to such factors as the height of the steps, the slope of the stairs, as well as the location and shape of the railing. The steps must have non-slip coating, and the gaps between the balusters are chosen so that the child cannot squeeze through them and fall.
Design features of stairs
Depending on the method of fastening the steps, marching stairs can be on bowstrings, stringers or bolts.
- Ladders on bowstrings have two side beams to which steps are attached. Such proteins (strings) can be made of metal or wood. They can be attached to the wall or special supports, providing high strength of the entire structure.
- The steps of the stairs on the stringers are attached to the beams, which are located below and repeat the geometry of the entire structure. Such beams (kosoura) can be straight or curved. Straight stringers, as a rule, have a jagged shape, while the steps are superimposed on the teeth.
- Stairs with a bolt connection of steps are highly durable, so this design does not require additional supports and can be held at two points. The steps are attached to each other with metal rods - bolts, which completely eliminates the creaking caused by the friction of two wooden surfaces.
How to make a staircase with your own hands. Choosing materials
The most commonly used wood for stairs conifers because it is affordable and easy to process. An oak staircase will be more durable, but the cost of such a design will increase several times, moreover, the processing of this type of wood is a rather laborious task and requires certain skills.
The main steps in the manufacture of stairs
Let's consider the basic principles of making stairs using an example wooden structure on stringers. Before starting the design, it is necessary to understand that any, even minor errors and inaccuracies in the calculations can lead to serious problems that will arise during installation, so each stage should be treated very carefully. Our future staircase will consist of three main elements: steps, handrails and stringers. On initial stage design needs to be done necessary calculations designs.
Calculation of the width and height of steps
To calculate the size of steps, the formula 2A + B = 64cm is usually used, where A is the width and B is the height. Typical step heights range from 140 to 170mm. We measure the height of the future stairs and divide by the estimated value of the height of the steps.
Suppose it is 240cm, and the desired height of the steps is 17cm. We divide the resulting value by the height of the steps 240/16=15 and round the result to the nearest integer, therefore, our future staircase will consist of 15 steps. Now we determine the exact height of the steps, for this we divide the height of the entire staircase by the number of steps: 240/15 \u003d 16cm. We find the width by the formula, using the height value, we get 24cm. You can also use a table.
The protrusion (part of the step hanging over the riser) should be no more than 3-4 cm. The greater the height of the riser, the narrower the step itself, but its width should not be less height. Most optimal width steps should correspond to the forty-second shoe size (29-30cm.)
When calculating the stairs, it is also necessary to take into account the distance between the steps and the objects located above them (ceiling, beams, balconies, etc.). It should be at least 1.9-2 meters.
The horizontal size of the stairs is determined as follows: the width of the steps is multiplied by their number, while it should be taken into account that the floor surface serves as the first step, so in our case the calculation will look like this: 13x24=312cm.
If the height of the stairs is large enough, you can make a platform. Such platforms are recommended to be done in 7-8 steps. In the case when it is necessary to design a staircase with a certain number of steps, you can reduce their height in order to make a platform.
Manufacturing of stringers
As a material for the manufacture of stringers, you can use a 40mm wide pine board. Make a pattern that exactly repeats the dimensions of the profile of the steps and mark the prepared boards. Then cut out the teeth with a hacksaw or electric jigsaw. In those places where the riser joins the step, it is necessary to cut off the corner. Having made one kosour, you can use it as a template for the rest. Since the strength, safety and durability of the stairs depend on the stringers, you should not save on their quantity, as well as on the quality of the material from which they are made. Boards should be free of knots and any signs of insect activity. Consider a way to attach stringers. To achieve the required strength, as a rule, 3-4 stringers are enough.
Installation of steps and railings making wooden stairs with your own hands
Steps can be attached both directly to the stringers, and with the help of additional wooden elements- filly. Measure and cut out the required number of steps and risers from wood, and do not forget to take into account the ledge. Steps are fastened with nails or self-tapping screws.
The design using triangular fillies is more reliable. The fillies are fastened using dowels, for which grooves are previously made. Most solid construction is obtained using fillies of complex shape, while a special cutout is made on the stringers. The connection of the elements of the stairs is carried out with the help of glue and self-tapping screws.
After the steps are ready, you can screw the railing balusters to them. In order to protect the tree from the influence of destructive factors (dampness, mold harmful insects), it needs to be painted.
Making a wooden staircase with your own hands, in principle, is not so difficult. All you need for this is quality wood, essential tool and a little patience. Before starting work, carefully consider all the nuances future design and double-check your calculations.
A straight marching wooden staircase is a popular design in a private house, since it is quite simple to make it, and the appearance (with correct finish) is no worse than screw or modular fixtures. It is far from a secret that the average person must pay several of their monthly salaries for a factory ladder, although the cost of manufacturing it is only 20-25% of this cost.
Now we will consider how the mid-flight staircase to the second floor is made, its design, we will make detailed drawing and we will carry out the installation with our own hands. This process will take approximately 2 days: the first will be required for the collection of materials and preparations, the second - for the construction of the stairs. We will use the most inexpensive and reliable materials so that we don’t give away the last pants and our invention has served for several decades.
Types of marching stairs and what is better to choose
Depending on the design features, height, material from which the stairs are made, they are distinguished by about 10 types. In fact, you can conditionally divide them only into rotary and straight lines, and everything else is just subspecies. Swivel occupy less space in the house, they look a little more elegant, but making straight ones is much easier, cheaper, and there are a lot of opportunities for the builder's creativity.
It is worth noting that for walking it is better to choose the manufacture of mid-flight stairs without turns, two people can easily disperse on them, it is more convenient to carry weights between floors and it is much easier to wash. They take more space- this is true, but it can be used ergonomically and sew up the space with drywall or OSB, making useful shelves or niches for clothes (to make a dressing room) or interior items.
We chose a simple type of marching staircase for construction - a straight line. First of all, because it is really cheap, and secondly, it will be much easier to do it and even a novice builder without experience will be able to cope with such work. Now you can move on to calculations and more interesting stages of work.
Calculation and drawing of a mid-flight wooden staircase
Let's start with short review by parts of the stairs in order to better understand what and how to do. In the mid-flight stairs there are steps - elements that take the main load. Everything seems to be clear here, now let's move on. Kosour - a bearing element, a kind of beam in which "burrs" are made for installing steps and fastening risers ("supports" of steps). It resembles the shape of a saw, on the teeth of which there are steps. There can be 2 stringers or 1 in the marching staircase. In the second case opposite side steps are attached directly to the wall. 
Now we need to learn another new curse - bowstring. This is a large wide beam in which there are seats for steps. “Well, where is the difference?” - you ask. Yes, it’s not there, it’s just that on the stringer the steps are attached from above, but here, as it were, between two beams, which are periodically pulled together by reinforcement or wooden rods. Here it is already necessary to choose in appearance what someone likes, since there are no practical differences. 
Although risers look like supporting elements, they do not hold anything and are installed purely for decorative purposes - they hide the space under the stairs. They can be decorated with stickers, beautiful inscriptions or burn something - they look quite solid and original, and the costs for decoration are minimal. 
Of course, there are also railings, their function and fastening seem to be clear (balusters and a handrail on top). Now let's make the dimensions of the flight of stairs, put it all on paper first, and then make a similar transfer to the room in which our structure will be located. Consider the instructions step by step, so that it is as clear and convenient as possible to follow.
STEP 1: calculate the number of steps and the length of the stairs. Let's say the ceiling height of your house is 250 centimeters, the angle of inclination must be chosen 40 degrees - this is the optimal angle for comfortable walking and lifting loads. Length wooden beam will be in this case 500 centimeters. The width of the steps should be approximately 50-60 centimeters, at least to make it easy to move around. Lifting height - 15-20 centimeters. These are the most common parameters of mid-flight stairs, which are most often used in their construction. An angle of more than 45 degrees is considered unsafe to move, especially if there are children in the house. 
STEP 2: calculation of the flight stairs on the scale of the room. We took the total length of the stairs that we got (we found the hypotenuse isosceles triangle, found the root of the sum of the squares of the height of the room and the length from the base of the stairs to the wall on which it “leans”), divided by the height of the risers, their number came out. We draw all this on the floor and wall, visually see if such parameters suit us. 
STEP 3: we collect the received records and go to the sawmill for the necessary wood. Marching wooden stairs are best made of oak - maximum strength of wood, minimum shrinkage and excellent appearance. But there is one minus - the oak stands like an airplane, so we will replace it with an ordinary pine and then decorate it “under the oak”. And cheaply, and then you can boast to the guests with an exclusive marching staircase to the second floor, made by yourself. 
Important: if the house was recently built, it may still shrink a little, so it is highly recommended not to install a lot of rigid ladder fixtures - it can “lead” over time. To begin with, it would be better to fix the “draft” version with a gap of 1-2 centimeters, and then, if after a year or two it remains in the same place, fix it tightly and close to the ceiling.
Making a pine marching staircase to the house
To begin with, we need to buy a wooden beam of the desired length (determined in the previous section), a board 25-30 mm thick, impregnations, stains, varnish, stock up on a jigsaw, sandpaper or grinder. Now we will analyze how to make a marching staircase with your own hands. Let's take a look at everything step by step for convenience.
STAGE 1: production of stringers of a straight mid-flight staircase. You can, of course, ask directly at the sawmill to make the necessary teeth, grind the timber, make grooves, but this is all money, and rather big ones, so we will still spend a few hours of our time and make a mid-flight ladder with our own hands. First, we make grooves at the beginning and end of the beam, with which it will lie on the support beam below and be attached to the beam from above. Everything is simple there: you need to cut a small seat at an angle of 90 degrees to lean it against a beam or beam on the floor. Next, you need to take a ruler and draw the “teeth” on the stringer: you need to count 20 cm everywhere (step height) and a right angle should turn out everywhere, you can use a protractor. Next, we cut everything out and process it with sandpaper or grind it with a machine. 
STEP 2: step manufacturing. Now we need to make a marching staircase with steps for further processing. We install the prepared beam, fasten it with anchors or screws to the beam and floor. We cut the steps from a board 30 mm thick, make them along the width of the stairs with the railing together, then remove the sharp corners with a planer or grinder and grind them. Similarly, we make risers, only from a board already 20 mm thick. We cut them off according to the height of the steps and the width of the stairs so that nothing protrudes anywhere. 
STEP 3: step fixing. First we screw the risers, then we lay the steps on top, screw them with self-tapping screws, but be sure to moisten all the joints in carpentry glue or epoxy resin so that nothing creaks later. Now the design of the mid-flight stairs is almost ready, you just need to lean on something! 
STAGE 4: railing. We need balusters and handrails. Here you can just buy them ready-made, because they are inexpensive, and it will be quite difficult to do it yourself, if you want, you can install ordinary square balusters by cutting out a similar element with wooden beam. 1 baluster per step will be just fine, some prefer to put and fasten them through one with self-tapping screws or special L-shaped fasteners, which are screwed flush and painted over. Similarly, you can fix the railing with the help of L-shaped fasteners and self-tapping screws. The installation of a marching staircase made of wood is completed, now it remains to be treated with anti-corrosion mixtures. 
You can use impregnations, make everything with varnish on top. Choice paintwork materials large enough, you can buy a special mixture “under the oak” or make divorces - here the flight of fancy is not limited to anything. If you want to make a truly exclusive wooden flight staircase with your own hands, then you will also need an aluminum corner, with which you can process the risers and steps. You can also burn out beautiful patterns or stick something on the risers. 
We also invite you to see detailed video instructions for making the simplest wooden mid-flight stairs with your own hands from budget materials:
