Installing drywall on walls is a frame method. How to install drywall on a wall: advice from experienced craftsmen What you need to install drywall
Few property owners can be happy with smooth walls in their house or apartment. Even nowadays, having received a new home, you have to level the walls, ceiling, and floor with your own hands. Finishing an apartment requires large material and monetary costs. In order to somehow save on upcoming expenses, you have to do work with my own hands. Skillful hands- the main trump card in the work!
Gypsum board is in great demand for construction finishing. Gypsum wall cladding is used everywhere. Gypsum board is also called drywall. This harmless, environmentally friendly building material has become simply indispensable in finishing work. The name of the drywall immediately communicates all the information about itself. These are sheets of cardboard glued together. Gypsum fills the space between the sheets. This building material is non-toxic and versatile. Many people try to make a frame for gypsum board with their own hands, without resorting to the support of specialists.
You can’t do this without special knowledge and skills in working with tools.
Two ways to install gypsum board
The finishing of walls with gypsum board depends on the material from which they are made. If the wall is made of reinforced concrete blocks, panels, then it will fit without any problems frameless installation. The surface is cleaned of all dust, plaster, and primed. Then the sheets are simply glued with special glue. The glue is selected depending on the surface material. In all other cases, you need to make the frame first. This installation method will be called frame. The frame for gypsum board is very convenient: it hides all the irregularities and communications. Used for turnkey finishing of apartments. List of tools for work:
- Drill.
- Cutter.
- Putty knife.
- Building level.
- Plumb.
- Screwdriver.
- Thin cord.
- Hacksaw, jigsaw.
- Metal scissors.
Materials used for installation of gypsum board:
- Drywall sheets.
- Guide profile PN 28×27.
- Profile for ceiling PP 60×27.
- Self-tapping screw.
- The suspension is straight.
If the plan also includes repairing the ceiling and floor, then first of all, start finishing the walls. The frame will need to rest on a solid floor base.
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Important stages of frame installation
The first stage is to measure the surface. If the dimensions above and below converge, then you can continue to make the frame of the walls with your own hands. If there is a difference, then when marking the walls you need to take this difference into account, plus the distance under the guide, so that the corners are straight. The second stage - we retreat 3-4 cm from the wall, screw in a self-tapping screw on the ceiling at the same distance. We screw another screw into the floor below and stretch a thin cord from the ceiling to the floor. We mark everything with a pencil. Alignment should be done according to the building level or plumb line.
We do this in all corners of the room, obtaining the outline of the frame. Remove the thin cord. The third stage - we attach guides along the entire contour of the frame. The guides are made of wood, galvanized rolled steel, or channel-shaped. Their length reaches up to 6 m. We select the size according to the length of the wall, trimming it if necessary. We perform leveling or plumbing. The fourth stage is to make guide posts every 40-50 cm. Attach the posts with screws or brackets to the wall with dowels. The racks are reinforced with special strips for strength. The planks are made approximately 50-70 cm apart. The frame is ready for wall covering. The fifth stage is insulation, sound insulation. You can put cork mats or glass wool between the racks with your own hands. Some people use isover. Only correct installation will make the walls smooth and beautiful.
Drywall is ready-made gypsum boards standardized size, reinforced with a cardboard shell on both sides. By adding mineral and organic additives to the plasticizer, drywall with water-repellent or fire-resistant properties is obtained.
The main purpose of drywall is housing construction, this is a quick “dry plaster” of walls.
Dry plaster or drywall installation directly on the wall without a frame is done using gypsum-based adhesive specially designed for gluing plasterboard sheets to brick or concrete walls.
Attaching drywall with glue is quick and easy. To do this, strengthen the walls by treating them with a primer, then apply glue from gypsum mixture rollers with a diameter of 10 cm or flat cakes, the distance between the rollers is taken from 20 to 40 cm. GKL with glue is installed against the wall on a wooden temporary stand 5-10 mm high to obtain a gap between the sheet and the floor. There should also be the same gap from the ceiling. A gap of 5 mm must be maintained between the sheets. This is very important for subsequent sealing of seams and during technological drying of the glue. The evenness of installation of drywall sheets must be monitored using a plumb line and a stretched thread in the horizontal direction. The sheets installed in this way must be supported with supports until the glue sets. Drying must be long for the glue to dry completely. You can then seal seams and gaps using gypsum putty for seams.
Installation of drywall on a frame base can take place in several stages:
- installation with a continuous covering layer on a finished frame (simple partitions and ceilings, as well as leveling wall structures);
- sequential installation as the frame is built up in tiers of the structure, where it is necessary to fasten curved frame elements directly to the drywall.
Installation of drywall on the frame is done using special self-tapping screws (self-tapping screws) 25 mm long. The self-tapping screw is screwed in with a screwdriver so that its head is immersed into the body of the gypsum board core by 1-2 mm.
When fastening sheets of drywall, you must strictly adhere to the fastening pattern with self-tapping screws. The distance between the fastening points should not exceed 25 cm for the ceiling and 40 cm for walls and partitions. The distance of the attachment point from the edge of the plasterboard sheet should be 10 mm from the end that is in the cardboard and 15 mm from the end that is cut off and the core of the sheet is exposed. When attaching gypsum boards, it is necessary to leave a gap of 5 mm between the sheets.
Complex plasterboard structures are installed using the build-up method. Installation of drywall when performing work on creating multi-tiered structures is done as the frame is built up. The side curved UD profiles are attached to the plasterboard of the first layer of fastening, and the second layer of plasterboard is attached to them.
Drywall bends
On arches and turns you will need to bend the drywall. There are two ways to bend drywall. To bend strips of drywall for the ends of the ceiling tiers, you need to make cuts on the strip so that the back side is held on the cardboard. The frequency of such cuts is determined by the bending radius; the smaller the radius, the more frequent the cuts. The arc should not have a broken appearance after leveling putty. This bending method is also used for installing drywall at corners of walls and partitions; in this case, cuts are made along the entire length of the gypsum board; care must be taken not to tear the cardboard that holds the core strips. You need to fasten each strip of the core with a self-tapping screw to the frame.
Bend drywall wet method more complicated, but this technology allows you to obtain a perfectly curved plane of the sheet. This method can be used where there are difficulties with fastening to the frame and it is easier to attach a solid arched piece of drywall, fixed in several places. First of all, you need to cut a piece of drywall to the desired length and width, then one side of the drywall is pierced using a needle roller. The back or front side is pierced depending on the convex or concave bend. The puncture site should be on inside arcs. Use a sponge to moisten the punctured side of the sheet to moisten the core. The wet sheet is placed on the convex template with the wet side down. The product must be thoroughly dried before attaching to the frame.
Corners on drywall
The corners of plasterboard structures need to be strengthened and this can be done using specially designed reinforcing corners. Such details are needed to strengthen right angles. But right angles can be in the same plane and on an arc. For arched arc right angles, PVC corners with perforation have been developed, which can bend and maintain a volumetric right angle. Such corners are attached to the drywall using any available temporary means; they can be pinned to the drywall with a stapler or self-tapping screws. After the corners are held to the putty, the temporary fastenings are removed.
Reinforcing corners are puttied finishing putty along with coating the plasterboard surface with putty. Corners for strengthening corners also act as a beacon for puttying and grouting. Right angles, just like arched ones, are reinforced with the same right angles made of plastic or aluminum. Internal corners also reinforced with reinforcing corners for internal corners. Indirect corners are reinforced with tape with a metal liner that accepts any angle.
The seams between the sheets of drywall must be sealed using gypsum joint putty. You need to putty with a narrow metal spatula. The gaps must be completely filled with putty, then a sickle or other reinforcing material must be applied to the seam, which must be covered with a leveling layer of putty. You also need to fill the holes that formed above the heads of the screws screwed into the drywall. It is important that the serpyanka does not fall into the seam and is even and flat.
Plasterboard sheets are laid with an offset of 600 mm in the transverse direction and at least 1 m in the longitudinal direction. A sheet of plasterboard on the ceiling is laid across the CD load-bearing profiles.
Installation of plasterboard in two layers is used for covering frames of walls and partitions. The second layer of drywall must be applied with a horizontal offset of at least 60 cm. The seams of the first layer do not need to be sealed. Sheathing with plasterboard in two layers makes it possible to better secure sockets and switches in the wall using conventional technology.
Installation of sockets in drywall
In each room, on the walls, we must install a sufficient number of sockets for connecting electrical appliances and switches for lighting circuits. Installing sockets is a more responsible process, since by pulling the plug, you can loosen and pull out an insecurely installed socket.
There are special socket boxes for drywall, which are attached to the plasterboard with clamps, but we still recommend using regular socket boxes. To install a regular socket box in drywall, you need to build up the body of the drywall in pieces from inside the structure. The hole must be centered so that the socket box fits in with a gap of several millimeters. The last piece of drywall needs to be used to cover the hole for the socket box. There should be a hole in which the socket box will fit. You can attach pieces of drywall with paper glue, such as PVA. The socket box in the hole must be placed on gypsum or alabaster putty so that the solution fills all the cracks. To supply the cable, you need to make a groove in one of the pieces of drywall. The sheet of drywall where the socket will be placed must be prepared using the above method before installation on the frame.
Installation of sockets and switches
Installation of sockets and switches done in socket boxes. Our task is to install socket boxes in plasterboard efficiently and reliably.
Electrical cables must be laid in advance in the places where the socket boxes are attached. Holes for installing socket boxes must be drilled with a special standard size crown, which must match the size of the socket box. If the wall is sheathed with two layers of plasterboard, then the fastening of the socket box will be more reliable. It is recommended to drill holes for switches at a height of 85-90 cm from the floor, and for sockets at a height of 15-20 cm from the floor; in some cases, the locations for socket boxes are determined by the design plasterboard construction and the advisability of placing them in other places. In places where air conditioners are mounted, of course, you need to provide an outlet in the immediate vicinity. In the kitchen, sockets should be in places where household appliances are connected above the countertop.
The ends of the drywall in the hole are moistened with a deeply penetrating primer to strengthen them. This is very important point, since the crumbling ends of the drywall in the openings of the socket boxes will lead to rapid swaying and the pulling out of the entire socket along with the socket box.
The socket box for plasterboard has two lugs with screws. To install such a socket box, you need to place it in the hole in the drywall and tighten the screws with lugs, they will rest against the drywall with reverse side. But such fastening will not be completely reliable, so it needs to be further strengthened. Before installing the socket box, you need to apply putty for the seams on the ends of the drywall in the hole and on the socket box itself. The putty should hold the socket box tightly and not allow it to move.
Before installing the socket box, through its hole you need to pull the prepared electrical cable. The socket box should be installed flush with the outer layer of drywall. The internal contact block of a socket or switch is secured in the socket box with spacer screw elements, as well as with screws in the socket box itself; such screws are included in its installation preparation.
When all the reinforcing parts and socket boxes are glued, they begin to putty and level the surface with gypsum finishing putty.
Modern construction and renovation are unthinkable without the use of plasterboard boards in interior decoration. They are used not only to level walls and ceilings, but also to install partitions, cornices, niches and multi-level ceilings. This finishing material is very plastic and easy to use. It is easy to cut, creating even curved shapes.
Scheme plasterboard wall.
The use of drywall made repairs much cheaper and of better quality. Self-installation plasterboard on the wall requires certain knowledge and compliance with certain simple rules.
Types and sizes of plasterboard boards
Drywall is finishing material, having the form of a rectangular slab consisting of two layers of multi-layer paper and a gypsum mineral layer between them. The paper protects the gypsum from destruction and also retains the internal tension of the material inside the layers, which allows the sheet to be used in finishing work. According to its purpose, plasterboard is divided into ordinary, moisture-resistant and fire-resistant.
The sheets have standard sizes: length 2.5 or 3 meters, width 1.2 meters, thickness 6 mm, 9 mm, 12.5 mm. Sometimes you can find sheets with dimensions of 1200x600x12.5 mm. It should be understood that installation of plasterboard on walls is allowed with a sheet thickness of 12.5 mm. Thinner types of sheets are intended for other purposes. This is the production of curved and bent surfaces.
Basic technological methods for fastening plasterboard boards
There are several ways to securely attach plasterboard sheets to walls:
Correct and incorrect fastening of plasterboard sheet to the frame.
- For glue. The base of the wall should be very strong and sufficiently primed, its surface should be smooth without significant differences. The glue is applied to the wall and to the sheet to be glued, after which the surfaces are glued together by pressing. This method of constructing a plasterboard wall does not require a large number of tools and allows you to create good sound insulation from structural noise.
- On a special metal profile. The sheets are fastened to a pre-mounted metal strong frame, made from a special profile. The frame is rigidly attached to the walls being finished. Installation of drywall on it is carried out using self-tapping screws of suitable size, which requires additional tools. This method does not provide good sound insulation.
- On wooden blocks. Attached to the wall wooden beams equal thickness, processed special composition, protecting against mold and dampness. The sheets are attached to the bars using self-tapping screws or small nails. In this case, you need to be careful, since excessive impact on the slab can damage its integrity. Sound insulation can be added to plasterboard walls made in this way.
With any of the methods, you should take into account in advance the installation of electrical wiring and the location of electrical appliances in the room.
Rules for cutting drywall parts
Scheme of cutting drywall using a knife.
In order to cut drywall, you only need a paper knife, a ruler and a pencil. To grind the edges of the cut, you can effectively use an auxiliary tool: a special plane, a grater with a sandpaper or a large file.
Before cutting off part of the sheet, you need to mark it according to size using a ruler and pencil. Then cut the paper layer with a knife on one side. After this, you need to bend the sheet of drywall at an angle of 90 degrees towards the cut and cut the paper with opposite side. The cut will be fairly even. Now you need to chamfer it. To do this, paper layers are cut off on both sides of the sheet at a distance of 1 cm from the edge of the cut. This is done to avoid paper tearing. Now we remove the chamfer from the edge with a knife at an angle of 45 degrees. Irregularities are smoothed out using auxiliary tool.
The procedure for installing a plasterboard wall
Before you begin installing drywall on the walls, you should do some preparatory work. It is necessary to produce preliminary installation electrical wiring. To do this, we fix the wires on the walls in corrugated protective tubes and mark the places where sockets, switches and distribution boxes exit to the surface. You should immediately stretch the horizontal wires at the level of the junction boxes, and the vertical wires straight up from the switches and sockets. It is forbidden to place wires inside metal profile, since self-tapping screws will be screwed into it.
Installation of a metal profile frame
Profiles for drywall.
Before installing the frame, the walls are marked. To do this you will need the following construction tools:
- Liquid rack level.
- Roulette or ruler.
- Any plumb line.
- Pencil.
- Lace or rope.
With their help, the location of all elements of the future frame is measured and recorded on the wall. All angles must be right, and the elements must be strictly vertical and horizontal. Before installing drywall on the walls, it is necessary to know where hanging furniture or other interior items will be mounted. This will strengthen such places for future use. The marking of vertical and horizontal frame elements is made taking into account the size of the foxes. In the future, this will make the installation of drywall more convenient.
Then, strictly according to the markings, a metal profile frame is installed. To install it you will need next tool:
- Hammer.
- Screwdriver.
- Hammer.
- Metal scissors.
- Bulgarian.
- Pliers.
Scheme of covering walls with plasterboard on a metal frame.
The metal profile is cut into pieces of the required length, which are connected to each other using a T-shaped connection or using special cross-shaped “crabs”. In this case, self-tapping screws are used. This structure is attached to the walls using construction hangers. U-shaped. Each of them must be firmly fixed to the wall with two self-tapping screws. In this case, it is necessary to strictly observe the level of the surface on which the plasterboard sheets will be attached. To do this, strings are pulled between the first and last vertical guides, which are positioned with the required clearance from the wall. All other guides should touch the laces, but not retract them. The frame for drywall must be stable and durable.
Fastening and processing of plasterboard sheets
After the installation of the frame is completed and it has been tested for strength, you can begin finishing the wall with your own hands. The prepared sheets of drywall are fastened with self-tapping screws to the frame guides strictly vertically. In this case, the sheets are raised from the floor by several millimeters, which is necessary to avoid their further deformation during operation due to shrinkage.
All boxes for sockets and switches are mounted in sheets, and the wires are routed outside. The resulting joints and corners must be processed. To do this you will need the following additional tools:
- Spatula of suitable width.
- Bucket for mixture.
- A grater for grouting joints.
- Brush or roller.
A thin layer of putty is applied to the seams, and a construction mesh is glued onto it. Then the next layer of putty is applied over the mesh. The seams are smoothed over the entire surface of the walls with a spatula. The internal corners are coated with putty and leveled. External corners require more attention. A metal or plastic corner is glued onto them, which protects the corner from cracks. Plastic corner You can also glue it on top of wallpaper. When finishing, special attention should be paid to walls with window or door openings. Already at the marking stage, it is necessary to provide for all the nuances of fastening the frame guides.
Installation of interior partitions
With your own hands, you can make not only walls from plasterboard, but also partitions - for this, a frame is built from a metal profile, which is rigidly attached to the floor and ceiling.
The principle of its installation is similar to that described above. Then the drywall is installed on this frame according to the same rules. Installing drywall on walls with your own hands should only be done on a reliable frame that has perfect fastening.
Thus, in order to make plasterboard walls with your own hands, you need to prepare all the necessary tools and get to work, following all the rules.
moyagostinaya.ru
DIY lessons on installing and working with drywall
Many of us are sure that drywall is a modern building material that came into use only at the end of the last century. No! In fact, this type of material has been used for about 200 years. Of course, production technologies have changed during this time, but this does not change the following fact: everyone can master the basic aspects of handling drywall on their own.
Working with profiles
As a rule, today no one uses wooden bars to mount the frame; instead, U-shaped metal profiles are used. 
Working with drywall occurs using 4 types of profiles.
- Guide profiles for creating a frame, also often called PN or UW. They have standard depth 40 mm, and the width can be 50, 75 or 100 mm. Guide profiles are used to create the basis for fastening rack and ceiling profiles.
- Ceiling guides (PNP or UD) have the same functions as previous profiles, but are used for installation suspended ceilings.
- Ceiling profiles (PP or CD) are designed to create a frame and lintels. They are inserted into guides and secured to the ceiling with hangers, crabs, and anchor clamps.
- Rack profiles (PS or CW) are used when it is necessary to install plasterboard partitions or to create walls. They are fixed into guides.
Basic fasteners for frame profile- self-tapping screws, the length of which is from 9 to 12 mm. There are also rivets and assembly pliers (cutter) for connecting several profiles. The frame is attached to the wall or ceiling using anchors or dowel-nails.
Do not be intimidated by the large set of parts used when installing drywall. This is far from full list what professional builders use. In addition, do not forget that one-time work only implies the presence of direct hangers, CD and UD, dowel-nails or anchors.
Particular attention should be paid to the tools for installing drywall on walls. 
Since you will have to drill holes in profiles, walls and other materials, buy or rent a hammer drill, the impact force of which is 3-5 J. Using a hammer drill, making a hole in concrete is much easier than using an impact drill. She just can't handle that many holes. In addition, the hammer drill is perfect for kneading various mixtures for puttying and installation. For this you need a special mixer attachment.
No less important is cordless screwdriver with a set of special attachments for screwing screws with different types hats
In addition to power tools, it is also used hand tool:
- hammer;
- metal scissors;
- screwdriver;
- stationery knife;
- markers;
- laser level or hydraulic level;
- planer for drywall;
- pliers.
To attach one frame post with a height of 2.5 m to the wall, use five direct hangers, that is, 1 hanger every 50 cm.
To secure each, two anchors are used; a total of 10 holes need to be drilled. The distance between the posts is 60 cm, so for a wall 6 m long and 2.5 m high you will need 7 frame posts and 70 holes.
How to work with drywall
Working with drywall means, first of all, creating a frame and then covering it. Typically, plasterboard structures are used to create lighting, level walls, and construct partitions, arches and niches.
Installing drywall with your own hands is as follows.
If you need to cut a sheet of drywall, you can very easily do it yourself. For this stationery knife cut the cardboard and a few millimeters of the plaster layer, and then break it on the corner of the table. Cut off the second layer of paper after the break.
How to seal sheet joints
After installation is completed, it is necessary to seal the joints and screw heads in the drywall. When joining entire sheets, the edges must form the required shape, and when installing cut pieces, a chamfer is cut to ensure a triangular seam. 
For filling assembly seam use putty. The joint is reinforced with a painting mesh (serpyanka). Serpyanka is used after filling the seam with putty, then it is puttied clean. To strengthen the corners, you can use reinforcing perforated corners.
If working with drywall requires creating curved structures, you can bend the sheet yourself. To do this, use a spiked roller to make holes in a sheet of cardboard and moisten it generously with water. After 10-15 minutes, the plaster will get wet, and you can give it any shape without any problems. This technique is often used to create interior arches and curved suspended ceilings.
Nowadays, not a single apartment renovation can be done without such a practical material as drywall. If you learn to work with it correctly, you will be able to create amazing designs for hiding communications, creating partitions and zoning rooms.
remboo.ru
DIY plasterboard walls. How to do it?
Remodel an apartment, divide space in a private house, or simply implement something original design solution– a plasterboard wall is a universal option. And thanks to the ease of installation, even a beginner can handle its installation!
What you need to know about profiles and drywall?
The desired room sizes will differ slightly from those planned, because part of the area will be “eaten up” new wall. To understand what to expect in the end, you need to know the width of the profiles and the thickness of the drywall sheets (GKL).
Characteristics of profiles and their purpose
Before buying materials and starting to mark out rooms, you need to understand the purpose and differences of the profiles. So, according to their intended purpose, they are guides (PN) and rack-mounted (PS).
As the name implies, the guide profile is attached to the floor and ceiling and vertical posts are inserted into it.
Profile marking depends on the characteristics:
- D – rack and guide profiles 60x27 mm and 27x28 mm, respectively, designed for fixing drywall on one side only;
- W – profiles for forming full wall, sewn on both sides;
- C – rack profiles with a rib height of 50 mm;
- U - guides with an edge height of 40 mm;
- 50, 75, 100 – profile width, which should match the racks and guides.
For example, the marking CW 100 means that it is rack mounted wall profile dimensions 50x100 mm. It requires a guide profile UW 100 (40x100 mm). When choosing a profile, you need to focus on the desired thickness of insulation/sound insulation. So, for profiles with a width of 75 mm, standard insulation laid in one layer (for example, mineral wool) is suitable.
The length of the profiles also depends on their purpose. The guides are produced in one length - 3 m, but the racks can be 3, 3.5 and 4 m. The thing is that it is highly not recommended to “increase” the guides in height - this will weaken the entire structure and can lead to cracks. Therefore, before purchasing racks, you need to measure the height of the ceilings.
Drywall sheets - thickness, dimensions and characteristics
Wall plasterboard is available in a thickness of 12.5 mm - this is its minimum permissible value. The load on the wall in this case cannot exceed 40 kg per square meter. This sheet is quite enough for finishing for painting or even laying tiles with your own hands. If you plan to install heavy equipment, shelves or other interior elements, you should choose sheets:
- 15 mm thick - for loads from 40 to 50 kg;
- 18 mm thick – for loads up to 70 kg;
- double sheets - for heavy loads from 70 kg.
The dimensions of the sheets are standard - width 120 cm, and height can be from 2 m to 3 m in increments of 0.5 m. Also, do not forget that only moisture-resistant gypsum plasterboard is suitable for the wall in the bathroom. Fire-resistant sheets are also becoming more and more popular - they do not flare up, but slowly smolder and quickly go out in the absence of a fire source.
Based on these data, you can determine the dimensions of the future room - you need to step back at least 8.75 cm inward from the original markings (7.5 cm for the profile + 1.25 cm for drywall). If it is necessary to lay in the walls water pipes or large-diameter corrugated cables, the walls are built from two rows of CD and UD profiles, and the width of the wall will depend on the selected distance between them.
Installation of plasterboard wall
Installation of walls begins with the initial marking of the area and alignment of the corners.
Often, there are no perfectly smooth walls, especially in old houses, so when dividing a room you need to link not to one, but to two opposite walls. This will minimize the visual unevenness of the future space.
If all surfaces are covered with plasterboard, before making a new wall, first use profiles and plasterboard to level the existing ones as much as possible. This will allow you to achieve even right angles, which will greatly simplify your work in the future. Finishing work.
Installation of profiles
Installing profiles is quite simple, but requires great precision. To level the racks, it is advisable to purchase laser level to speed up the process, but you can limit yourself to a regular plumb line. Installation is carried out in stages:
Important nuances of installing drywall
The sheets are attached to the profiles with special self-tapping screws with a press washer - they do not pierce the cardboard, but are well embedded in the sheet. To improve the quality of seam sealing, a chamfer is removed from the top side of all cut edges (this is not necessary for factory edges, it is already there).
The sheets are fastened in a staggered pattern with an offset. It is very important to avoid cross-shaped seams - they almost always crack. Self-tapping screws securing adjacent sheets should also not be placed on the same line.
On the opposite side of the wall, the edges of the sheets should not be adjacent to the same posts on which the edges of the gypsum board are already attached.
The technique for installing a plasterboard wall is shown in detail in the video:
svoimirukami.lesstroy.net
DIY installation of drywall on walls: video, instructions
Installation of drywall on walls, carried out using frame or frameless technology, allows you to level the surface to an ideal state, while simultaneously insulating it with a layer insulating material.
Working with sheets of drywall is simple and does not require much experience, which is confirmed by the proposed video plot.
The finished wall plane can be easily improved by using ceramic tiles, simple painting or wallpapering.
Made from moisture resistant and regular drywall make a design? Choose the type of material that will fully correspond to the purpose of the room.
When planning to radically change the design of the bedrooms, living room or hallway, purchase ordinary sheets of drywall.
Their use makes it possible not only to level the walls, but also to organize shaped elements for them, to arrange original niches and shelves with lighting.
If the renovation is carried out in the bathroom, kitchen or other room with constantly high humidity, purchase wall or ceiling sheets that are resistant to moisture.
Additional processing products water-repellent primer allows you to increase the degree of vapor tightness of walls with your own hands.
We invite you to watch video material on this topic.
Lathing made of wood or profile – which is better?
In order for the drywall to fit perfectly on the walls during operation and hide all defects, as shown in our video material, you need to pay attention to one more thing important fact– mounting the frame.
The technology for constructing such a structure comes down to marking the plane of the walls and subsequent installation of wooden or metal products.
Previously, wall coverings with plasterboard were carried out on a wooden frame; the affordable cost of wooden beams spoke for itself.
But since wood behaves unpredictably if the humidity in the room changes, over time, preference began to be given to a galvanized profile when installing sheathing under the cladding.
But it makes sense to build wooden structure with your own hands for installing drywall, if you have dry bars in stock.
You should not rely on commercially available wood for by and large such wood is either freshly sawn or has a high degree of humidity.
A frame mounted from such materials becomes deformed over time due to drying of the wood.
In any case, further information and the proposed video materials will be useful to you.
Here we will consider in detail the methods of installing a frame, both from wooden beams and from a metal profile, followed by laying insulation and installing drywall.
Making lathing from wooden beams
A frame made of timber can be attached to both wooden and concrete walls. In the first case, the elements are fixed using nails or self-tapping screws, in the second - using dowels.
Before starting work, prepare the foundation with your own hands. The walls of the house are treated with an antiseptic primer.
Having a clean and well-dried surface in front of them, they proceed to installing the timber sheathing.
The work will involve:
- fasteners;
- hacksaw or a circular saw;
- building level;
- roulette;
- wooden bars.
Installation rules wooden sheathing:
- The technology for arranging a wooden frame for drywall begins with marking the working area and installing the strapping;
- Using a tape measure, mark the area for fixing the guide rails along the ceiling, along the floor, along the walls and at the corners of the walls with an indentation of 200 mm;
- Using a regular hacksaw, adjust to right size wooden beams, then fasten them with self-tapping screws in the marked places;
- The correct location of the vertical guide elements is controlled using a level;
- First of all, they attach the bars to the ceiling, then move on to arranging the piping below. After making sure correct location beams, fix vertical guides on the walls;
- The vertical elements of the sheathing will bear the main load of the structure, so it is very important to fasten them well;
- The distance between subsequent vertical posts should not exceed 600 mm. They can be secured using screws or a metal corner.
If there are openings in the wall between the vertical posts, install the cross bars yourself.
If there is electrical wiring, the wires are placed in a corrugated protective sheath.
Installation of a metal profile lathing frame
The installation of a sheathing frame made of a metal profile under plasterboard begins, as in the first case, by marking the working plane. First, check the walls using a building level for height differences.
Existing deviations are recorded and eliminated with your own hands during marking work. Familiarize yourself with the technology of arrangement in more detail metal frame can be found in the video provided.
Technology for installing metal profiles on walls:
- The galvanized guide profile is mounted along the marked marking lines. For each wall you will need two profiles: one is mounted on the wall under the ceiling with an indentation of 800-100 mm, the second - on the floor along the wall;
- If it is necessary to level the difference horizontally, a rigid element with required thickness;
- The guide profile under the ceiling is placed with the groove down. A profile fixed to the floor, with the groove up, for the possibility of installing rack elements in them;
- Do-it-yourself vertical guide elements of the metal frame are fixed at the corners to the wall with an indentation of 400 mm; dowels or self-tapping screws are used in the work;
- For subsequent installation of the rack profile, vertical lines are drawn along the wall, hangers are mounted along them in increments of 400-500 mm, due to which the future structure will receive its rigidity;
- The edges of the rack profile are inserted into the grooves of the guide elements from above and below, everything is secured with self-tapping screws;
- At the same time, it is attached to the suspensions. Strict vertical installation rack profiles control the level.
Thermal insulation of walls and installation of plasterboard on the sheathing
Regardless of the material from which the sheathing was made, before starting the installation of plasterboard sheets, insulation and soundproofing work is carried out.
Drywall is often the only available material with which to remodel a room. And it’s often possible to give walls a divine look only with the help of gypsum boards. The good thing about a plasterboard wall is that you can do it yourself, without hiring a team of professionals for such work. A maximum of one assistant may be needed.
You can save a lot if you purchase screws 25 mm long rather than 35 mm. According to the rules, after screwing, the self-tapping screw should protrude 1 cm from the reverse side, so many try to take 35 mm ones with a reserve, but this is not always justified. If the sheet thickness is 12.5 mm, then adding another 10 mm, by which the screw should protrude, we get 22.5 mm. The thickness of the profile is insignificant, so it can be ignored in the calculations.
The minimum thickness of a plasterboard wall is 4 centimeters. It is necessary to add the width of the guides (27 mm) to the thickness of the drywall (12.5 mm). If we're talking about about the partition in the room, then you need to add another thickness of plasterboard, with which the wall is sheathed on both sides. The result will be 52 mm. When creating a frame near the wall, it is customary to retreat from it about 5 cm, so that it is convenient to work with the profiles. Otherwise, it will be difficult to even drill holes.
We will look at how to install drywall on walls with your own hands. Specifically, we will analyze how to mark and correctly position plasterboard sheets on the wall, how to correctly install a profile under plasterboard, and how to attach plasterboard to the profile. We will also give an example of the consumption of drywall on a 3x4.5 meter wall.
Marking the location of drywall sheets
In this article we will look at the most difficult situation of installing drywall on walls - when there is an opening (window) in the wall. Basic principles for installing drywall on solid wall the same as when mounted on a wall with an opening.
Now let's look at the main points when marking the location of sheets on the wall.
1. Opening in the wall. The basic rule for placing sheets on the wall is this: if there is a door and/or window opening in the wall, then the joints of the sheets should be at least 200-300 mm away from all corners of this opening. Otherwise, you will get a crack in the finished surface.
The red dotted line indicates how to divide the sheets it is forbidden!
Arrangement of sheets on a wall with an opening
That is, the marking of sheets begins precisely from the openings. In this case, it is desirable that a whole sheet starts from some corner of the wall: then there will be fewer scraps.
2. If there is a narrow band left.
If the length of the wall is such that a narrow strip remains
It is also better to take into account that it is better not to leave a strip narrower than 100 mm: you can get rid of it by moving all the sheets from this strip so that the strip becomes at least 300-400 mm. 300-400 mm is the distance of the stand from the adjacent wall at which you can normally work with a screwdriver.
Way out:
By rearranging sheets 3 and 4, and cutting sheet 1, everything falls into place
We cut sheet 1 so that sheet 4 becomes a little wider -300-400mm. And we swap sheets 3 and 4 to fulfill the first rule.
3. If the sheet height less height walls, and you have to add another part in height, then the sheets must be placed staggered. Simply put: if there is a horizontal joint, then it should not go into adjacent sheets. The “distance” must be at least 0.4 m.
Layout of sheets if the wall height is more than three meters
Marking the location of profiles
Now that we have decided where and how the sheets will be located, we can accurately mark the location of the racks and other frame elements.
CD racks should be located in increments of multiples of 1200 mm, but not less than 600 mm. Most often, 600 mm is enough for wall cladding. The racks are profiles that are called “tsedeshki” because of their C-shaped section.
CD profile
The guide profiles for CD are UD due to the U-shaped section. It is placed along the perimeter of the wall to be sewn.
UD profile
So, an example of the location of profiles for a wall with a window, if the height of the room is greater than the height of the plasterboard sheets.
Arrangement of frame elements for the wall
We place the racks under the vertical and horizontal joints of the drywall (in red). We also add 2 racks: 1 and 5 along the edge of the opening and a lintel above the window - 6. On sheets 2 and 3 there are two intermediate racks (1 and 2 on sheet 2; 4 and 5 on sheet 3): from behind the window we shift the central ones the edge of the opening (1 and 5), and so that the strut spacing does not exceed 600 mm, we add one more (2 and 4) in the middle of these large spans. We install UD guides (blue) along the perimeter of the wall and under the window.
Note: If the length of the sheet is greater than or equal to the height of the room, that is, the sheet covers the wall in height, then there is no need for horizontal jumpers.
It is also necessary to provide a support for fastening the UD of future adjacent planes: if you plan to sew up a wall nearby, or mount a plasterboard box, then place an additional rack under the main frame along this line.
An additional CD will simplify the installation of the adjacent wall frame
When the UD is attached through a sheet of drywall to the CD, the result is strong, good angle. If you are sheathing the ceiling, then it is advisable to additionally make horizontal lintels at the level of the future ceiling.
Securing the perimeter of the frame along the floor, walls and ceiling
Plane marking
When we have decided on the location of the sheets and profiles on the wall, we need to mark the plane in which the drywall will be located. The minimum thickness of the entire structure on profiles is 35 mm + 12 mm (gypsum plasterboard) = 47 mm. The maximum thickness that the U-shaped bracket (U-shka) allows us is 110 mm.
U-shaped bracket, or simply “P-shka”
In general, we need all the markings and stretched laces for the profiles (not for the front surface of the main body), since we will be displaying the profiles. We mark a line on the floor using a dye cord so that all profiles run vertically without touching the wall, and at the same time do not take up excess space in the room. You may have to lay mineral wool under the gypsum board, this must also be taken into account: then the distance from the existing wall to the gypsum board should be equal to the thickness mineral wool. Sometimes it is necessary to create a right angle between the walls: then you need to mark the adjacent walls on the floor, because at this stage it is much easier to control it. When everything is clear with the line on the floor, we draw vertical lines along the adjacent walls using a slatted level, or using a plumb line. And finally, we close the perimeter on the ceiling. To control the plane, you need to pull two diagonals with a string. The laces at the intersection should touch, but not strain each other. Cut UD profiles to length. But not completely, but only side walls, and bend the middle wall.
We cut the side shelves UD to bend them 90 degrees.
Bend the middle wall and you’re done.
To soundproof structural noise, we glue an elastic tape with an adhesive backing to the middle shelf of the UD - in German it is called dichtung. This simple technique will significantly reduce wall rattling and improve the sound insulation of the room.
Glue the tape to the middle shelf UD
Now you can attach the UD profile. Depending on the material of the floor, walls and ceiling, we select fasteners. For durable concrete that does not crumble, a quick-installation dowel (DBM) 6x40 is suitable; for bricks with plaster, DBM 6x60; in a loose, not very strong surface, it is better to use DBM 8x60, 8x80. If you need to attach the UD to a tree, then we take wood screws. The UD must be secured at least every 400 mm.
Important! The evenness of the entire surface will depend on the evenness and verticality of marking and securing the UD.
UD usually has Ø6 mm perforated holes for fastening, however, it happens that the hole is removed along with the waste, or the hole is located on a weak section of the wall. Then it is better to mark the missing holes and drill them with a metal drill, placing a block inside.
It happens that the base to which the UD is attached is uneven, and if it is fixed in a local “hole,” the profile may bend. To prevent this from happening, it is necessary to place wood or plastic gaskets in such places.
Place UD pads where needed
If the existing surface is broken, then in this place it is necessary to make cuts on the side walls of the profile. Then you will have to trim the edge of the sheet, but the profile will not be bent and will be well secured.
In the place of a sharp break in the surface, we cut UD
Now all that remains is to secure the UD under the window sill for the entire length of the window sill. We screw the UD from the bottom of the window sill with self-tapping screws. It is advisable that the screws do not stick out from the window sill later :). To secure the profile to plastic, a 9.5 mm flea screw is sufficient, no more than 15 mm.
Installation of CD rack profiles. Marking and fastening
Attaching a profile for drywall occurs like this: on the wall you need to mark off the vertical lines for the location of the CD. We fasten P-shki along these lines - every 500-600 mm. We retreat 500 mm from the floor and from the ceiling, dividing the remaining distance into equal parts.
Each P-shka must be secured to one hole on each edge (to choose from: 1 or 2, and 4 or 5), the middle hole 3 can be omitted. In general, it is needed for preliminary fastening; a long slot will allow you to move the bracket.
P-shka
We select fasteners, again, based on the base. For better sound insulation, you can glue dichtung under the P-shka.
We fasten the P-shki
When all the P-shki are secured, we insert the vertical CD posts into the UD profiles. Their length should be such that the profile fits into place without tension and does not dangle: 2-3 mm less than inner size between U.D.
We start the racks
When all the posts are in place, you need to tightly pull the lace horizontally between the outermost UDs. Now you can bend each bracket towards the CD, and in order to prevent the cord from being pulled back by the posts, you need to insert a nail or wire into the P-shank so that the posts bend slightly towards the wall. If this is not done, the wall will turn out “pot-bellied”.
We move the profiles away from the lace using a nail
Now we remove the stop-nail from the outer rack and screw the rack to the P-shka. These are the 9.5 mm long flea screws:
Flea screw 9.5 mm
Important: None of the posts should retract the lace.
First fasten one screw on each side. It is convenient to twist the self-tapping screw into the hole that coincides with the groove on the profile. Then the profile will not shift and the screws will not pop out. 
We screw the racks to the P-frames
We make sure that the stand stands exactly in line with the lace and does not pull the lace away. Checking long rule so that the height of the stand is also level. Now it’s too late to control the verticality: we make sure that we get an even plane. After control, you can tighten the second flea, for reliability.
We bend the protruding parts of the P-shka
When all the screws are screwed in, bend down the ends of the P-shki that protrude beyond the plane.
Frame under and above the window
Now we make a jumper from the CD above the window. We make a T-shaped connection on both sides of the jumper. We set it to the horizon, remembering that the lower edge of the lintel is a support for the slope. We fasten the jumper with 9.5 mm fleas.
We make a stand from the lintel to the ceiling. At the bottom there is a T-shaped connection, at the top it simply fits into the UD. We fasten 9.5 mm with fleas.
Location of connections in the frame
Assembly: jumper for the rack at the edge of the opening
If the rack along the opening becomes so that it has no support, then add jumpers every 500-600 mm and fix the jumpers on the P-shocks.
Top view: if the post at the edge of the opening has no support
When all the racks are screwed in and aligned according to the markings, we twist the racks to the UD so that they do not move. When the sheet covers the racks, they will not be visible, and in order not to waste time on calculations and remembering, we place the lines of the racks on the floor and ceiling.
We fix the racks and mark their location on the floor and ceiling
Adjusting sheets to the required dimensions
It is advisable that the HA does not touch the ceiling and floor 3-5 mm: this will improve sound insulation, and the HA will not absorb water in the event of a small leak. If the floor and ceiling are horizontal, and the corner from which you start sheathing is vertical, i.e. there is a right angle, then it is enough to measure two dimensions: the height of the sheet and the width. If the floor is not level, then first you need to cut off this slope from the sheet. This is necessary so that all other edges of the sheets remain in vertical position(more details: and).
Scheme of sheet sizes if the floor is not in the horizon
And only then measure the height and width of the sheet.
Sheet dimensions if both the floor and the ceiling are not horizontal
If the geometry of the sheet is completely ugly, when, for example, there are no right angles, then you need to check the diagonals. On the marked sheet they should be the same as on the wall.
It must also be taken into account that outside corner, for example, a slope, one of the sheets must be released to the thickness of a suitable edge.
One of the sheets on the outer corner must be released to the thickness of the other
And if these are both factory edges, then the outer putty corner will ideally fit into the recess of the edges and will not protrude beyond the plane.
The best option for edges on the outer corner
Attaching drywall to the wall
For better sound insulation, dichtung can also be glued to the surface of the frame under the HA. When sound insulation is approached comprehensively, the result is much better.
Comprehensive sound insulation measures
The sheets are attached to the profiles using TN-25 metal screws 25 mm long.
Screw for fastening plasterboard sheets TN-25
We fasten the sheets on each rack and around the perimeter in increments of 20-30 cm.
We screw the sheets to the frame using a screwdriver or drill with a low number of revolutions
Each screw should sink 1-2 mm into the paper. The screws must be twisted perpendicular to the surface of the sheets. If the screw goes deeper than 3 mm, then it does not hold well, and you need to back off 5 cm and tighten another one.
Exemplary tightened screw
You need to twist it around the perimeter in UD carefully: when the edge is not factory-made, but cut, then if the screw is deepened too much, the edge of the sheet will break. This is not fatal, but it will have to be sealed with putty, and this has a bad effect on the strength of the sheet. If the sheet is not cut accurately, and the GC sheet barely reaches the UD profile, then you can do the same as with the plinth: insert the CD profile into the UD profile and there is no longer any need to tighten the screws to the very edge of the sheet (green).
An additional CD will help to properly secure the sheet and the baseboard in the future
If there is a screw head on the surface of the profiles, then the screw will not fit tightly. Then we take the block, apply it in this place to the already exposed sheet, and with a precise blow of a hammer (without fanaticism?) we press the HA from the reverse side onto the screw. In general, it is optimal to measure, cut and screw the sheets sequentially: this way we eliminate unnecessary movements of the sheets and can promptly correct inaccuracies in measurements. So that the sheet can be conveniently adjusted in height (raised by a few millimeters) while screwing, you can use the following block: the more you press on it with your foot from one edge, the higher the sheet will rise.
The block helps to adjust the sheet height by a few millimeters
Frame for slopes
Now on our wall there remains an unsewn surface of the slopes. It looks neat when all slope planes are equally located on the window (preferably about 5-10 mm). The narrowest place is the hinges on the sash, i.e. You need to “dance” from this side. Then the remaining slopes can be made according to this size. 
Frame for slopes
If the width of the slope does not exceed 600 mm, then two racks are sufficient: one is a CD in the plane of the wall along the edge of the opening, and the second is a CD under the window itself. For rigidity, you can add a horizontal jumper between them. First, we attach the UD profile to the window sill and, in a plane with it, we attach the UD to the upper slope. These will be the guides. Under the window we insert a CD cut to size. The easiest way is to fasten it on spacer bars (break off the block to size): if the distance between the profile and the surface allows it to be fixed with a long fastener through the profile into the wall, then good. If the distance is about 100 mm (this happens in old houses), then the block can be placed end-to-end: tighten the block with a screw through the profile, and secure the block itself through the corner. Such attachment points should be every 500-600 mm. Can be mounted on regular P-shkas. But there are many difficulties: it is difficult to work with a screwdriver due to the proximity of the slope, it is difficult to secure the second side of the CD, and the U-shaped bracket cannot provide rigidity to the frame “towards” the window.
We attach drywall to the frame of the side slopes. Then, similarly to the side slopes, we sheathe the top one: first the frame, then screw the sheet. Or you can act in the reverse order: first the upper slope, and then the two side slopes.
We cover the slopes with plasterboard
Cut out the top slope.
- We measure the width of the slope: from the window to the plane of the wall. To control: we check the width in two corners; it often happens that the window is not parallel to the plane of the wall.
- We measure the length of the slope under the window.
- Now we apply a 90 degree square to the corner and measure the difference B: how much the outer edge of the slope is larger than the inner one. Also in the second corner there is a difference C.
- We check: the sum of two “differences” B + C and the length of the inner edge of the slope A = length of the outer slope.
- We mark the sheet. Cut and screw.
Slope size diagram
The situation is the same with the side slopes, only there is a right angle between the window and the window sill.
Approximate consumption of materials for facing a wall 2.5-3 meters high 4.5 m
Layout of sheets on the wall 4.5x2.5-3 m
- UD 5-6 pcsx3 m;
- Fasteners for UD 50 pcs;
- CD 9 pcsx3 m;
- P-shki 50 pcs;
- Fasteners for P-shek 100 pcs;
- Self-tapping screw 9.5 mm (flea) 150 pcs;
- Drywall 3x1.2 m - 4 sheets + slopes depending on depth;
- Screws TN 25 - 200 pcs;
- Dichtung: on UD - 15 m + on P-shki 5 m + on CD 50-55 m. Total - 70-75 m with a width of 30 mm;
- Mesh for joints 10 m;
- Fugenfüller 1-2 kg;
- Putty corner;
- Other little things that need to be taken into account individually (acrylic sealant), etc.
