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Wall partitions from a profile for drywall. DIY drywall partitions: step by step instructions and some nuances Advantages of drywall partitions

The main task of repair in apartments and houses is to bring the walls into normal condition. Just a few decades ago, almost no one heard about the ideal smooth walls. Aligned, based on the principle of "at least somehow." The situation can be corrected according to all the rules: delete old plaster and re-plaster on the lighthouses. This is reliable and correct, but at the same time difficult, expensive and time consuming. It is much easier to use dry methods: align the walls with GKL ( drywall sheets).

The second task, which is most often solved in the process repair work, is redevelopment. Old partitions are removed, and new ones are mounted in their place. Decorative and interior partitions are also installed using drywall. This article will discuss how to level and install drywall walls with your own hands: photo, video.

To begin with, it is worth considering cases when it becomes necessary to level the surface of existing walls. There are several options for attaching drywall sheets to walls:

1. On a base of wooden blocks.

It is mounted from jumpers and racks, however, it is attached directly to the wall itself. Too large differences are much more difficult to compensate, first you have to look for the most protruding parts on the wall. Then there are two ways: the first is to try to reduce the differences by cutting off the most protruding places, the second is to focus on them, laying additional bars everywhere.

The main disadvantage of fasteners on wooden bars is that when not dry enough (with a humidity level above 20 percent), they can “lead” during drying, therefore, the whole structure will warp. There is also the possibility of destruction of wood by fungi and pests. Despite this, some regions prefer this method, since lumber prices are much lower than profiles.

1. Installing sheets on a frame made of galvanized profile allows you to get a perfectly flat surface with any curvature.

The profiles are mounted on special clamps from which the frame is assembled in order to front part lintels and posts lay in the same plane. Since the plasterboards are at a decent distance from the main wall, electrical wiring and communications can be laid between the wall and it. Another advantage of the frame from the profile is the possibility of laying a sound pickup and insulation. The disadvantage of this option is that without a heater it conducts sounds well: blows on the wall sheathing sound similar to a drum.

1. Installation of drywall sheets immediately on the walls.

In other words, installing GKL on glue. Use "liquid nails" or special mixtures. This method is available if the plane of the walls is relatively flat, with slight differences of 2-3 centimeters. Glue is applied to the surface of the walls or sheet (in heaps, if there are differences, and in strips, if the walls are even), then the sheet is mounted in place, set using a level, fixed with props and wedges.

The latest technology - landing drywall on glue, the fastest, however, it also has disadvantages. Not everywhere there is glue under the sheets, so hanging cabinets on such a wall is quite problematic. If you previously planned to fix something to the wall, install a mortgage beam as an additional beacon when setting the level or lay a continuous layer of glue. Then the problem will be solved.

Another disadvantage is small differences, the surface is not perfectly smooth (difference of 2-3 millimeters). Between the "pieces" of glue, the GKL bends a little. However, this method is great for quickly leveling walls.

Attachments to the frame, do-it-yourself plasterboard walls: photo, video

So, when sticking a sheet on a wall, no fasteners are required, we will mainly talk about a metal frame. The rules for attaching to a wooden one are exactly the same, they just use special self-tapping screws for wood.

The purpose of drywall sheets and their dimensions

A few words about how to put GKL on the walls and what sizes they are. The standard dimensions are: height - 2.5 and 3 meters, width is always 1.2 meters. Sometimes there are "non-standard", slightly shorter lengths. Small sheets are much easier to work with, but there are more seams that need to be sealed. GKL thickness:

• 6 mm and 9 mm - designed for curved surfaces.

• 12.5 mm - versatile material for ceiling and walls.

It is often said that nine-millimeter sheets are ceiling. But manufacturing companies do not have such recommendations. Any manufacturer positions thin sheets, such as those used to finish uneven surfaces.

Bevels are made along the entire length of the edges of the sheet, which are necessary in order to glue the reinforcing tape and seal it with putty. It is the side on which there is a bevel that is the front. It should be deployed inside the room.

How to join sheets

If it becomes necessary to join drywall sheets in height, try to arrange the joints so that a long line does not form, they are laid with a shift or apart, it is desirable that the offset does not exceed 60 centimeters. Long joints are places where cracks form. By shifting the seam, with almost one hundred percent probability you will get rid of cracks.

If the wall is sheathed with several layers of drywall, then the vertical seams also move. The sheet on top should be installed offset by half the width (60 centimeters).

Do-it-yourself plasterboard wall mounting rules: photo, video

During installation, drywall sheets are pressed against the frame and fastened with special self-tapping screws with flat heads and screwdrivers. If the frame is metal, use TN25 self-tapping screws (25x3.5 mm), in stores they are called “for drywall”. Color - white or black (more often breaks), length - 25 millimeters. For wooden frame select flat-head self-tapping screws that are close in size.

When installing fasteners, it is very important to tighten the self-tapping screw to the desired depth: the cap should be drowned in the sheet, while not tearing the cardboard, it must also be twisted perpendicular to the plane of the sheet, so you reduce the likelihood of damaging the cardboard layer responsible for rigidity.

When assembling the frame on a solid wall, the gaps between the posts should not exceed 60 centimeters. Then it turns out that each drywall sheet is attached to three verticals: one in the middle of the profile and two along its edges. In this case, the sheet border falls on the middle of the profile.

Having indented from the edge of 10-12 millimeters, screws are screwed in. They can be displaced or placed above one another. Mounting step - 250-300 millimeters. Mounted on the middle profile and around the perimeter.

Another very important point is the height. established sheet, it should be 10-12 millimeters shorter than the height from floor to ceiling. Such a gap must be left in case of shrinkage, so that the partition or wall has the opportunity to compensate for the change in height without cracks (this is especially true for panel and wooden houses). Perhaps these are all the main points of working with drywall.

Partition for a plasterboard wall with your own hands: photo, video

Installing the partition is a little more difficult, so we will describe the process step by step.

1. Markup.

First you need to mark the place for the partition. The easiest way to do this is with a laser level ( laser builder planes). This line is applied to the ceiling, floor and walls. If there is no laser level, you will have to use a plumb line and a building level (high quality). Then, using the level, transfer it to the wall. If both lines are vertical on the walls, the connecting line should be located strictly above the line on the floor, this is checked using a plumb line. It is necessary to achieve the most perfect match, since the quality of the work depends on it.

1. Frame assembly.

Guide profiles are mounted along the marked line on the ceiling and floor. They are marked PN or UW - bearing profile. Most often they are fastened with dowels - 6 * 60 or 6 * 40 millimeters, the distance between the dowels is not more than 40 centimeters.

PN profile has standard height walls (depth) - 40 millimeters, but can be of different widths 100 mm, 75 mm or 50 mm. From width bearing profile will depend on how thick the sound insulating material or insulation can be laid there, as well as the thickness of the partition.

Racks are installed in the guide profiles. They are marked PS or CW - rack profile. It differs from the guide by the presence of additional shelves on the walls. These shelves increase the bearing capacity, make it more rigid. The width of the rack profile depends on the width of the carrier, they must be identical. It is between them that a heater is installed.

Racks to rails are attached in several ways. The first is used mainly by professional builders. They work as a cutter - a tool that bends and breaks metal to the sides, fastens two parts. Fans, during independent repair work with GKL, are attached to “fleas” (“seeds”, “bugs”) - these are small self-tapping screws with a screw at the bottom (TEX 9.5). They drill the metal themselves, speeding up the assembly process (the holes do not need to be drilled). On each side of the rack is fixed with two self-tapping screws.

An important point, if you put a partition on the ground floor or in a high-rise building, then instead of the ceiling guide and the junction of the rack, apply a special film or some other material that will prevent the appearance of creaking. During walking, a vibration occurs that is transmitted to the profiles, as a result, the profiles rub, and a creak occurs. In the second option, you need to make the racks one centimeter shorter. It is more correct, since the shrinkage of the house is provided, and there are no annoying sounds.

The next step is to install the mesh (no more than 60 centimeters). The distance is determined by the width of the drywall sheet, which is usually 120 centimeters. As mentioned earlier, it turns out that the sheet is attached to three racks, so there should be 60 centimeters between the verticals. If, however, the gap is more than 60 cm, but less than the width of the sheet, a vertical profile is also placed between them, or in this area the sheet will bend and stagger. Another important point is that the first rack must be attached to the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe extreme profile, therefore the distance should be slightly less than 57.5 centimeters.

It is advisable to strengthen the profile to which you will attach windows and doors. The easiest way to do this is with a wooden block of the appropriate size. It is fixed with screws inside the profile. To prevent the beam from twisting, you need to use only dry wood. After the racks are exposed and fixed, the structures are stiffened with the help of jumpers.

Jumpers are pieces of rack profiles that are installed horizontally. As a rule, jumpers are located at the height of the joining of two sheets, they must be fixed. Otherwise, in increments of 60 to 80 centimeters. If the wall is small, put 80 cm each, if it is small, 60 cm is enough. It is worth noting that the crossbars above the doors are prerequisite when sheathing GKL. It is also desirable to strengthen them with a wooden bar.

1. Laying communications, plasterboard walls with your own hands: photo, video.

After installing all the crossbars, you can begin to lay electrical wiring and communications. Everything is desirable electric wires install in a corrugated sleeve. If the partition is mounted on a wooden frame or in wooden house, it must be made of metal. In houses / apartments made of non-combustible materials, in plasterboard walls on a galvanized frame, it is allowed to use polypropylene corrugated hoses made of non-combustible material (marked "NG").

1. Sheathing with heat / sound insulation and drywall.

After laying communications, they begin to mount drywall sheets. They are installed exactly as when sheathing. First, on one side, then on the other, a sound insulator or insulation is installed between the bars (profiles) of the frame. Next, the wall is sewn up with plasterboard on the other side. For partitions and walls use conventional insulation.

• Styrofoam. One of the varieties of foam. Differs in cells of the closed form thanks to what possesses the best performance: fungi do not develop, do not like rodents, dampens sound well and has excellent thermal insulation properties, denser. It can be installed in a spacer and is easily cut with a hacksaw. Does not support combustion. Minus - high price.

• Styrofoam. To obtain excellent characteristics in terms of heat and sound insulation, a board layer of 6-7 centimeters (density from 35 kg / m3). It conducts sound poorly, retains heat well, is easy to install and has a low cost. The disadvantages are that when burning, it releases hazardous substances and rodents love it.

• Mineral wool. This is stone wool (basalt is best), slag wool or glass wool. Basalt is considered the most environmentally friendly, because it does not contain formaldehyde. It is quite easy to work with them, they hold well by surprise, they are easy to cut, they are less afraid of moisture, no protective equipment is needed during installation. respiratory tract and skin. Their disadvantage is the high cost. by the most affordable option of these heaters is slag wool, glass wool has average price, and, of course, the most expensive stone.

In principle, you can use any other heaters, but the ones listed above are considered the most effective.

How to cut drywall?

When sheathing walls with plasterboard sheets, you will have to cut the sheets, since it is not always possible to install them entirely. This will require a clerical knife, a long, even object (rule, level, timber, board, ruler, etc.) and wooden beam OK. When cutting curved lines, you may need a jigsaw, but there will be a lot of dust. Sequencing:

• On the front side, draw a line with a pencil along which you want to cut the sheet.

• We bend the broken piece and cut the remaining cardboard.

Everything is really simple, the main thing is to mark it correctly, there will be no further problems.

Do-it-yourself plasterboard walls: photo, video tutorials

Unfortunately, not all features this process can be described, some are better seen with your own eyes. Therefore, we have selected videos that relate to the assembly of the features of working with drywall. Most often, the videos presented relate to the assembly of the frame from profiles. Since this is really one of the most time-consuming work, and how well the frame is formed depends on how even the partition and wall will be.

How to strengthen the racks in the partition?

This is a non-standard way of assembling the frame, but the racks are really tough. This method must be used if a full-fledged partition between rooms is erected from the GKL, in which case the reinforcement will definitely not be superfluous. The downside is that it will take much more time, and the price of such a frame is higher.

Which profile is better: grooved or smooth?

The market has various models profiles, including those with rough sidewalls and walls. With the same thickness of the metal, it is stiffer. How good it is in practice, look at the video.

Quite often in new apartments there are rooms that are too large, which would be better divided into two smaller rooms. Drywall partitions help to cope with this task. The hl device allows you to make an excellent partition that does not let noise through and retains heat in both newly formed rooms. Installation plaster partitions- it’s a simple matter, so quite often a plasterboard partition is made with your own hands. How to make a drywall partition, you will learn from this article. Also, you can learn about the advantages of a plasterboard partition with your own hands, and get acquainted with the intricacies that the installation of plasterboard partitions includes with step-by-step instructions.

What is this article about

Advantages of drywall

Before you start creating a drywall partition with your own hands, you need to answer one important question. Why is it best to use drywall partitions to divide a room? Why are other options worse? The fact is that drywall sheets have a number of advantages over other materials.

• Installation of plasterboard partitions is very easy, because given material extremely easy to handle.
• The material is quite light in itself, which facilitates the installation of drywall partitions.
• Installation of drywall partitions will require minimum costs time.
• Due to the cheapness of the material, the installation of plasterboard partitions is relatively cheap. So you can make a drywall partition with minimal financial costs.
• If you are thinking about how to make a drywall partition as similar as possible to the rest of the walls in the house, then you don’t have to worry. Plasterboard sheets are practically no different from the main walls.
• The device of partitions from drywall and drywall allows you to lay everything necessary communications right through the frame.
• A variety of niches and designs go well with such artificial walls, therefore, the device of partitions from HL can be called quite flexible.
• The drywall partition device creates a much more reliable sound insulation than an ordinary wall.
• The device of partitions from HL is a dust-free process. Of course, cutting drywall sheets or gypsum-fiber counterparts will create a lot of debris, but the installation itself does not carry dirt around the room.

To build a partition with your own hands from drywall, first you need to assemble a frame from metal profiles. The device of partitions from hl also allows the construction of a wooden frame, but this, roughly speaking, is already the last century. Therefore, it is better to put the assembly of metal.

Types of profiles for creating a frame

To build the frame we need, simple ceiling profiles will not work, since the installation of HL partitions requires a stronger fastening. For such structures, special guide profiles are used, which are called PN or UW. They come in different sizes, but they all have one length - three meters. They are used in the same way as ceiling guides.

Rack profiles for partitions are called PS. It is important that the rack profiles have exactly the same width as the guides, otherwise the frame will not be installed. It makes no sense to even try to mount such profiles in the apartment together. Unlike rails, rack profiles have different lengths - from three to four meters. Other sizes are provided for cases with high ceilings.

It is advisable to choose profiles that are wide enough, but not if you are going to build a two-layer sheathing. Think about this before attaching the frame.

Tools and materials

In order to make a partition, you will need the following.

• Guide metal profiles
• Rack metal profiles
• Tape to reinforce fastening
• Dowel-nails to secure the gypsum structure
• Cord breaking device
• 2m laser or bubble level
• Plasterboard sheets twelve and a half millimeters thick
• Serpyanka
• Hammer
• Roulette
• Stationery knife
• screwdriver
• Perforator
• Self-tapping screws for metal
• Self-tapping screws with a pers-washer
• acrylic primer
• Putty
• Metal shears
• Spatulas

To calculate the consumption of materials, you can use our calculator:

• Partition in 1 layer GKL
• Partition in 2 layers GKL

*Attention! All results are approximate - the accuracy depends on the material of the walls, the condition and shape of the room

Frame installation

Before proceeding with the installation of the frame, you yourself need to draw up its diagram in order to have a clear idea of ​​\u200b\u200bwhat the device of partitions from hl should be like. This is done quite easily, you just need to draw up a technical map of the frame. Routing should contain all design parameters. The internal technology for drawing up a drawing may differ for everyone, but all important nodes must be present in it so that the installation of hl partitions does not suffer.

Next, you should mark the walls in order to clearly see what needs to be mounted and where. It will help us a lot at this stage. laser level, which will allow you to draw up a fairly even drawing on the walls and on the floor so that you can focus on it during the repair. Along the location of the future partition, apply the same lines to the floor, ceiling and walls, which should be in the same plane. Once you've done this, attach along the lines the metal profiles that form the base of the frame. Attach them to the wall with self-tapping screws. It is better to use a screwdriver or a puncher for this operation.

It is important to remember that the step between the fasteners should be approximately thirty to forty centimeters. It is these profiles that you need to pay attention to in a special wall. Especially on their fastening, since these profiles form, as it were, the foundation of the entire frame, which means that they serve as a support for all structures and take on the bulk of the load from the weight of the partition.

Next you need to install vertical racks. With their disposition there is one important nuance. The distance between them directly depends on the width drywall sheet. The fact is that one drywall sheet should be located on three rack-mount metal profiles. Two rack profiles are located on the sides drywall sheet, and the third - exactly in the middle. It is very important that two sheets located side by side rest with their edges on the same rack profile of the frame. Based on this, you need to determine the distance between them.

The installation of rack profiles can be started from any wall on which a profile is installed with self-tapping screws, which acts as the basis of the frame. From it you need to count sixty centimeters, half the width drywall sheet. These are the places where the rack profiles need to be fixed to the ceiling and floor main profile.

Creating a doorway

For any partition you need a doorway. You will not completely limit part of the room from yourself, will you? Doorway profiles are under the most intense load, so it is important to pay special attention to them. It is necessary to install profiles with a shelf towards the opening. To give maximum strength and rigidity, you need to insert a wooden beam and fix it from the inside with self-tapping screws. The size of the beam, at the same time, must fully correspond to the size of the profile, and fastening with self-tapping screws is carried out along the side shelves.

The doorway is formed by one cross member, which determines the height of the future door by its size. To do this, an opening in the shape of the letter P is formed from the profiles. It must be installed and secured with its feet up. The size of the horizontal post in this design determines the width of the doorway, and hence the width of the door.

If you want to make an arch in the doorway, then the shape in the form of the letter P will not work. Approximately the same design is made, but with the appropriate configuration. You will have to bend the horizontal rack. To do this, use scissors for metal. With their help, we make cuts on the profile along the entire length. After that, it will easily bend without losing its strength.

Windows and shelves in the partition

One of the possible non-standard solutions may be the installation of windows in the partition. This is done easily. The same principle is used as in the case of the doorway. You just need to install horizontal profiles between the racks according to the size of the window opening. Most easy way the implementation of this solution is to mount transverse profiles between adjacent rack-mounts, but in this case you are very limited in terms of window size. The standard width will be sixty centimeters. If you want to install more narrow window, then it will be necessary to install vertical ones between two horizontal profiles in order to reduce the width of the opening. To do this, cut off pieces of profiles right size and install them between the crossbars. This method will allow you to install as many windows of the desired size, so you can create unique design built on small windows.

Installing shelves has some technical difficulties, which makes many abandon this idea. Shelves are either built-in or hanging. Hanging shelves are much easier to install. They are installed in the same way as on a regular wall, but with built-in shelves, everything will be much more complicated. To install them, it is necessary to change the structure of the frame. The lower part of the partition will have to be expanded, and the middle part will need to be expanded horizontally. If you do not have sufficient funds and time, then you should not start such changes in the design.

sheathing drywall sheets

The plating process is pretty standard. Plasterboard sheets are attached to the frame on both sides with self-tapping screws. If this is necessary, then two layers of drywall sheathing are installed. In this case, the partition will give an additional advantage in the form of strength, sound insulation and thermal insulation.

Drywall sheets will have to be cut, and if you did not make any windows and built-in shelves, then the space will need to be left only for the door. Otherwise, it will be necessary to trim the skin so as not to close the window opening. This is not a complicated procedure, but it has one nuance. A lot of drywall will go nowhere, since the remains of the cut sheets are unlikely to be used with benefit.

This completes the installation of an interior partition made of plasterboard sheets. It remains only to putty the partition and do design decoration. Here you can let your imagination run wild or find your favorite style among the examples below.

Some of the above interiors will require not only finishing, but also changes in the structure and design of the partition.

The use of drywall for re-planning movements is an excellent choice in favor of quality and easy installation. And GKL sheets are cheaper than glass, forged metal or natural wood. Installation of drywall partitions is easy to do on your own, if you pick up quality materials and tools to make the process easier.

Before planning and destroying old floors, it is necessary to obtain permission from the house management, otherwise independent intervention in the apartment scheme may affect the safety of the whole house. If redevelopment is planned in a private cottage, then there is no need to approach the process so strictly.

The main material for mounting a plasterboard partition is sheets. They are divided into several types according to different indicators. The main one is thickness. If the structure is erected for purely decorative purposes, there will be no door in it, and shelves and other heavy parts are not provided on the sides, then the thickness of the product may be minimal.

Important! The thickness of the sheets is selected not “by eye”, but according to calculations: the sum of the thickness of the insulation layer, all layers of drywall and the frame.

Regardless of the type of drywall used, builders identify a number of advantages of this material:

The optimal thickness for sheets is 12 mm. Such material is used in rooms with normal humidity indicators. If the partition is made in the bathroom or shower, you need to take moisture resistant drywall(it has a delicate mint color).

Types of drywall

Next essential material is a profile. Conventional ceiling profiles cannot be used, as they are not sufficiently reliable. Most often, reinforced guides and rack-mount metal profiles are used. They are different type and thickness - from 50 x 40 mm to 100 x 40 mm.

Additional materials:

• dowel;
• self-tapping screws with a press washer;
• self-tapping screws for metal;
• sealing tape and reinforcing tape for seams;
• acrylic primer;
• putty;
• serpyanka mesh for sealing seams.

The tools necessary for the construction of the partition are marked with a separate item.

Tools needed for the job

When installing a partition from a gypsum board, construction tools are used.

It is better not to replace them with improvised means, but to prepare everything in advance:

This set of tools and equipment for mounting a partition is used if it is straight, without curved shapes and additional angles. Additionally, you can buy a riveter for processing metal profile.

How to install a drywall partition

Before you install a drywall partition, you need to make sure that you have all the tools. It is better to start the process in daylight. Do-it-yourself partition installation takes place in several stages, and one of the most important is marking. Never skip it, especially if you are installing a similar design for the first time.

Marking

It is necessary to start the installation of drywall partitions with markings. Do this on the floor using a long ruler, a level and a building corner.

The line must be perfectly even, because subsequently a profile guide is attached to it:

It is necessary to make markings on the ceiling with particular accuracy, otherwise the design will turn out to be a curve, which will lead to its premature wear and the impossibility of mounting the door.

Frame installation

After the markup has been applied and made sure of its evenness, guide profiles are installed. First, they put the part on the floor and fix it with dowels, bypassing the place for the door.

Advice! Holes for fasteners are made when the guides lie on the floor strictly according to the markup, after which the guides can be moved.

Having removed the guides, the master hammers plugs-dowels into the holes in the floor. Then the guide profiles are put in place and screwed with self-tapping screws. After that, they make the final reconciliation of the markup, comparing the floor profile with the line on the ceiling. To do this, use a plumb line.

Next, the rack profile is fixed along the lines on the walls, constantly checking the position of the metal in terms of level so that there are no deviations to the side. The bottom of the vertical element is installed in the horizontal rail. If fastening occurs to concrete walls, use the same method as on the floor. If the walls are wooden, then the screws are screwed in without dowels. After installing the side strips, they proceed to the installation of the ceiling guide.

Advice! It is necessary to screw in the screws at a distance of up to 300 mm from each other.

Fastening to the ceiling occurs in the same way as to the floor. The next step is to determine the position of the door on the ceiling profile. To do this, use a plumb line, comparing the floor markings with the ceiling. Height measurements are taken for the frame parts that will frame the door. The required blanks are cut with scissors.

The vertical profile must be perfectly straight at this point.

The height of the door is marked on it, the crossbar from the profile is screwed according to the marks and reinforced with a wooden bar. Vertical posts are attached to it. Self-tapping screws are installed in the end.

If the ceilings in an apartment or house are high, then the installation of interior partitions is accompanied by the use of additional vertical profiles. They are fastened approximately every 500 - 700 mm.

Now you need to measure the space between the door and the openings, calculate how many vertical racks will be required. They are fastened 300-600 mm apart. The required number of racks are cut out of the metal profile, then they are installed with their ends inside the guides. The process is controlled by the building level. It is necessary to fasten the profiles with self-tapping screws with larger caps.

electrical wiring

When the frame is completely ready, electrical wiring is made inside. You can do this after the installation of drywall partitions - sheets - on one side is completed. In the profiles, you need to make holes through which the wires are pulled. All wiring must be covered with corrugated or smooth tubes to protect against possible damage.

Sheathing the frame with drywall

The big stage is the sheathing of the frame according to the size of the GKL with sheets. It is necessary to fasten drywall with prominent self-tapping screws (most often they use black ones, created specifically for fixing plasterboard). Fastener heads are deepened by 1 mm.

If the sheets are too large, they are cut off:

If the sheets are cut, then they lose their chamfer. This impairs the installation of a plasterboard partition. To make a bevel, you can use a planer with a beveled knife.

Advice! If elements are used in the partition to turn on electricity, then holes in the sheets are cut with crowns of the desired diameter. Through them wires are output after complete installation designs.

You can also install a box for a switch or socket on the finished half. As soon as one side is installed, insulation is laid out in the space: isover, mineral wool, polystyrene foam. Empty space must not be left, otherwise it will lead to the appearance of an echo in the room and other undesirable consequences.

Installing the door frame

The remaining empty doorway is processed last:

1. A door jamb with hinges is installed according to the level, using larger self-tapping screws.
2. The heads of the self-tapping screws are deepened into wooden racks boxes.
3. The door is suspended (it is desirable to choose the lightest canvas possible).

If problems arise due to insufficiently even installation of profiles, or if the opening is slightly larger, use wooden spacers. The remaining gaps are filled mounting foam. When it is completely dry, the protruding parts are cut out with a knife.

Seam sealing

The final stage of the installation of partitions from GKL is the sealing of all seams, including the heads of self-tapping screws and nails. At this stage, a sickle mesh is used. It is best to choose a material with applied glue, then the installation will be faster:

After all the procedures go to the stage finishing finished partition.

Finishing

Careful finishing is necessary so that the decorative materials lie evenly and correctly on the sheets. A sloppy look will nullify all the efforts of the builder.

The finish is completed with the final layer of putty, after which it is treated with fine-grained sandpaper.

After cleaning the wall of dust, apply an additional layer of primer and wait for complete drying. Now you can stick wallpaper or other decorative elements.

Creating a plasterboard partition with your own hands is not only simple, but also fascinating process that even a beginner can handle. The main thing is to strictly follow the recommendations and not skip the steps.

14.02.2016 0 Comments

Although drywall partitions have become widely known relatively recently, today many builders, as well as owners of offices and even residential apartments, cannot imagine their lives without them. Their installation is quite simple, easy and cheap, but at the same time they make it easy to zone the room. Therefore, it will be useful for many people to learn more about them - perhaps it is the use of drywall partitions that will be a good solution for them.

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Advantages of drywall partitions

These designs have quite a few important advantages to keep in mind. Here are just the most obvious and important:

1. Excellent soundproofing. It is enough to install a metal frame with one layer of drywall with a thickness of 12 millimeters to achieve sound absorption up to 47 dB. If a double layer of material is sewn onto the frame, this figure will increase to 45 dB;
2. The material is extremely light weight. Unlike brick and concrete partitions, plasterboard partitions are quite light (a sheet of 1 square meter weighs from 25 to 50 kg, depending on thickness), which allows you not to create a significant load on the supporting structure;
3. Drywall has a flat surface that is perfect for covering any finishing material– from paint and wallpaper to decorative stone slabs;
4. Modern drywall is a non-combustible material, which increases the safety of its use;
5. The relatively large porosity allows it to be classified as a "breathable" material. That is, it not only allows steam to pass through, but also absorbs excess moisture from the air, and if necessary gives it away, making the microclimate in the room more stable;
6. Ease of installation is even more important. Any room can be transformed beyond recognition in a matter of hours. And it is far from always necessary to resort to the help of specialists, spending extra money. You can build drywall partitions with your own hands - it is enough to have the simplest tools and at least basic skills in the field of construction. At the same time, the amount of construction debris during work is minimal.

As you can see, the advantages of such partitions are very numerous. But it is equally important to have an idea about the shortcomings, so that later you do not regret an unsuccessful choice.

Disadvantages of drywall partitions

Alas, like any other construction material, drywall has certain disadvantages. First of all, it is fragility. Unlike wooden and especially brick walls, plasterboard walls are easily damaged.

Although drywall is a "breathable" material, it does not tolerate high humidity, and even more so direct contact with water. That is, if the neighbors from above flood you, and the water gets on the drywall partitions, the latter will be hopelessly damaged - you will have to change them.

It is undesirable to hang shelves and cabinets on such partitions - they will become a serious additional load on the metal profile, and it may simply not withstand it.

This is where the cons of this material end. Yes, they are much less than the pros. That is why the installation of drywall partitions is such a popular service today.

How to choose a material?

If you decide to install drywall partitions in your apartment or house with your own hands, you will need: a profile, drywall, self-tapping screws. At first glance, this all sounds pretty simple. But, having come to the hardware store, many people who do not work in the construction industry are lost. Therefore, it will be useful to talk about these materials in more detail.

Types and purpose of metal profiles

Profiles may vary functional purpose and, accordingly, the section:

• guide profile. Its cross section resembles a channel. It is used as a basis if you need to fix the rack profile. Its shelves are 40 mm wide. The back can have a width of 50 to 100 millimeters. The marking mentions all the necessary parameters. For example, if you see a material marked PN 40-75, then this is a guide profile with a 75 mm long back and a 40 mm shelf;
• Rack profile. It differs from the guide by the presence at the ends of the shelves of special bends inward. In addition, its width is slightly larger - 50 millimeters. May be marked as PS 50-75. But it should be remembered that usually the back has a smaller width - instead of the indicated 50 mm, no more than 48.5.
• ceiling profile. It is used to create a ceiling frame with subsequent plasterboard sheathing;
• Angle profile. Needed to create smooth and attractive outer corners. Able to protect soft plasterboard corners from any mechanical damage;
• There is also an arched profile. It is used to create arched openings. The back and shelf of the profile are divided into equal sections, this allows you to easily bend it, giving it almost any shape;
• The beacon profile is used if you need to level the walls to a predetermined level. The profile is used as a stop that allows you to set the desired level for the rule.

All profiles have different lengths - from 2750 to 6000 millimeters, which allows you to choose the right one for any job.

It is also worth noting that the profile can vary significantly in the thickness of the metal used. Typically, the thickness ranges from 0.4 to 0.55 millimeters. Of course, if the thickness is greater, then the profile has greater strength, but it costs more and weighs more. Therefore, it is worthwhile to approach his choice as carefully as possible in order to choose the one that is suitable for the manufacture of drywall partitions with your own hands.

Drywall can also vary in a number of ways. For example, the thickness of the sheets may be from 6 to 15 millimeters. Thin sheets are suitable to form complex surfaces and arches. And in order to make partitions, the minimum thickness must be at least 12.5 millimeters. Otherwise, the sheets may not withstand possible mechanical stress.

Drywall is also usually divided into several groups:

• Standard drywall. Used to finish any surface. gray color with blue marking;
• Moisture resistant drywall. Suitable for rooms with high humidity. Green color with blue markings;
• Fire resistant drywall. It is used in ventilation shafts, electrical panels, attics. Grey, with red markings;
• Fire-resistant and moisture-resistant drywall. Green, with red markings.

Of course, when choosing the right material, you need to pay attention not only to the thickness of the sheets, but also to the purpose of the drywall in order to make right choice. Based on the thickness of the sheets, you should also choose the length of the screws. They must securely fix the drywall on the profile, but do not stick out after screwing.

Work progress

List of tools needed to perform the work

To install a drywall partition with your own hands, you need to use not so many tools: a building level, a clerical knife, a hammer, a screwdriver, a puncher, metal scissors, a tape measure of 5-7 meters, a plumb line and a pencil.

Some professionals prefer to use the more convenient laser self-levelling level. Indeed, with its help you can quickly complete a significant amount of work. But this is a rather expensive tool, so in most cases you can get by with the simplest hydraulic level.

If you don’t have a screwdriver or an electric drill at hand, you can get by with a screwdriver. Yes, you will have to spend a lot of time and effort to do all the work manually. But, nevertheless, it is quite real.

When all the tools are collected, and necessary materials bought, you can get to work. And for many people doing this work for the first time, it will not be superfluous to know how to install drywall partitions with their own hands. The step by step guide below will help you with this.

How to install a guide profile

The first stage of work is the installation of a guide profile. On the floor it is necessary to mark (preferably with chalk, as it is easily erased) a line. A new partition will be installed along it. We install a guide profile in the marked place.

If work is carried out in a room with wooden floors, the profile is simply fixed with self-tapping screws. It is more difficult if you have to work with concrete floors. Holes are pre-drilled in them, into which dowels are installed. The distance between the screws should not exceed 30 centimeters for reliable fixation.

The next step is fixing the profile on the walls. To do this, the first profile is used as a place for the lower attachment. Using a plumb line, we monitor the strictly vertical location of the profile. It mounts to the wall just like it mounts to the floor. If the wall is made of silicate blocks or aerated concrete, it is better to use special dowel-nails. They also need to be installed at intervals of no more than 30 centimeters.

At the joints, the profiles are interconnected using short (no more than 15 millimeters) self-tapping screws.

In the same way, you need to install a ceiling profile, thereby closing the contour for a future plasterboard partition.

Installing a vertical profile

The device of a deaf partition that does not provide for a doorway is simple. Vertical profiles are installed on guides, and you need to install from the wall. Places for mounting the profile should be marked in advance. It is necessary to determine the distance between them individually - it depends on how wide the drywall sheets are. On one sheet you need to install three racks - along the edges and in the center. For example, if a sheet with a width of 120 centimeters is installed, the racks are installed with a gap of 60 centimeters.

Before you start connecting profiles, you need to learn how to do it correctly. First, you should fix the screws closer to the back, and only then - closer to the edge. In this case, the risk of deformation of the shelf is eliminated. This means that the quality of the profile and its bearing capacity will not suffer.

To increase the rigidity of the structure, additional sections of the profile are installed between the vertical posts. Their length should correspond to the distance between the installed profile - during installation, it is advisable to use short self-tapping screws that can securely fasten the entire structure.

The minimum distance between the horizontal profile is 40 centimeters. In general, it depends on the length of the sheets. It is necessary to ensure that their edges lie in the middle of the profile. If it is planned to hang light shelves or a hanger on a plasterboard partition, in pre-marked places the profile is strengthened with wood bars - it is on them that the load will fall.

If you need a regular interior partition, then you can use whole sheets of drywall. Where this is not possible, the sheets will have to be cut stationery knife. How to do it neatly? You just need to lay the ruler and draw the knife several times in one place, gradually deepening the incision. Of course, this should be done carefully by measuring and marking everything so as not to spoil the building materials.

When fastening drywall to a profile, a gap should be provided between the floor and the bottom edge of the sheet. The gap should not be too large - about 5 millimeters.

After that, the sheet is attached to the vertical and guide racks. Optimal distance between screws - 15-20 centimeters. In this case, it is desirable to sink the caps of the self-tapping screws into the sheet by 1 millimeter. When the sheet is fixed, its horizontalness can be checked with a level.

As you can see, the technology of installing drywall partitions is not fraught with anything complicated.
When construction is completed, paint or wallpaper is applied to the surface, as provided for by the design project of a particular room.

The installation process will be a little more complicated if you are interested in a partition with a door.

In this case vertical profiles should not be installed from the wall, but from the marked opening. When mounting the guide profiles, a suitable gap must also be provided. The installation of the rack profile is carried out so that the width of the doorway is the same in the lower and upper parts.

The main thing to remember here is that both the door and the door should fit in the doorway. door frame. Otherwise, you will have to redo a large amount of work later.

To increase the strength of the opening, a wooden block is inserted into the profile. To fix it, it is better to use self-tapping screws with a length of at least 35 millimeters.

When the profile around the doorway has taken on a finished look, you can continue to install the rest of the profile, starting from it and moving towards the walls.

That's all. If you master the theory presented in the article, you will surely be able to install drywall partitions with your own hands without any problems.

In contact with

Unfortunately, today not everyone can afford to purchase spacious housing, but most of us still strive to create maximum coziness and comfort in what we have. Is there a way out of the situation when the number of rooms in the apartment is not enough to fully meet the needs of all family members? What if one room has to be used as a living room, office and bedroom? Despite the complexity of the question, the answer is quite simple - any living space can be divided into functional areas, dividing frame partitions, sheathed with drywall, and installing a door.

Anatomy of a drywall construction

Despite the features of the interior, your design intent, as well as the location and size of the drywall partitions, all these structures, as a rule, have a standard structure. They are based on a rigid metal frame made of galvanized profile, which can be reinforced with wooden beams at the installation point. doorway. To improve the heat and sound insulation properties, the crate is filled with a special insulator, the choice of which depends on the characteristics of the room and the requirements for the design. Mounted and insulated frame is sheathed on both sides drywall sheets(GKL) - a reliable, environmentally friendly and easy-to-install material, completely ready for any type of finishing.

The frame from the profile is filled with insulation and sheathed with plasterboard sheets

Application area

Frame partitions, sheathed with gypsum boards, are used to divide or zoning space in rooms of various layouts and purposes. These structures are mounted in production and office buildings, residential buildings and apartments, garages and outbuildings. The variety of types of drywall allows you to install partitions in rooms with high humidity and special requirements for fire safety.

Advantages

Frame structures sheathed with drywall sheets have long and with great success replaced brick or wood partitions due to a number of characteristic advantages:

• Material properties. A durable metal profile allows you to mount light partition frames of any shape and size, which do not create additional load on the load-bearing floors. The material is resistant to moisture, galvanized coating prevents oxidation and rust formation. Drywall is an environmentally friendly material that has been specially treated to improve fire and moisture resistance. It is easy to install, strong and durable, and its combination with stone wool, foam plastic or corkboard enhances the heat and sound insulation properties of the structure. GCR is perfect flat surface, which has unlimited possibilities for decorative finishes.
• fast and easy installation. Plasterboard partitions are easy to install - their creation is within the power of even a beginner, "inexperienced" in construction work home master. Note that one of the advantages of these structures is the ability to change their location - the product is easily disassembled and reassembled.
• Laying communications. The possibility of laying electrical wiring, water supply or sewage pipelines inside the partition frame is another advantage of this design.
• Minimum cost. All the elements that make up the partition sheathed with plasterboard are of low cost. During installation of the product, piles of construction debris and dust are not formed, the permissible noise level is not exceeded and a minimum of energy is expended.

Flaws

Be sure to note the design flaws that must be taken into account when making the final decision on its creation:

• The relative fragility of drywall compared to materials for capital construction (brick, concrete, wood). This parameter can only be increased by adding skin layers.
• Low resistance of GKL to abundant exposure to moisture. The material can collapse as a result of a leak "organized" by neighbors living above.
• The impossibility of fastening massive shelves on the surface of the partition or wall cabinets. The design is capable of holding a weight of up to 70 kg per linear meter, provided that the elements are fastened to the frame parts, and the drywall itself can withstand no more than 15 kg.

Despite some shortcomings of the GCR, we note that the competent creation and correct operation partitions made of this material will help to quickly, easily and inexpensively transform the interior of the room, giving it comfort and increasing its functionality.

Preparation for work

That's it, this short "course of theory" is over, let's move on to solving practical issues. Let's look at the list first necessary tool, we list the materials that we need to build the structure, and also perform an approximate calculation of their number.

Tool

To install the partition, you need to prepare a set of special, but quite common and simple tools:

• Roulette, nylon cord, building level, plumb line, pencil - marking the location of the structure.
• Angle grinder ("Bulgarian") or scissors for metal - cutting profile strips into elements of the desired length.
• Jigsaw (hacksaw) with drywall files or a construction knife - cutting sheathing sheets to size.
• Impact drill or perforator - making holes in load-bearing ceilings for dowels for mounting the PN profile.
• Electric (battery) screwdriver - fastening frame parts and mounting sheathing sheets using self-tapping screws.

To install the partition, you will need a simple construction tool

Attention! For mounting the structure at the upper levels, you will need a solid ladder-ladder. Work with a metal profile and drywall implies the mandatory use of personal protective equipment - goggles or a mask, thick gloves, a respirator.

materials

At self-assembly partitions will use the following materials:

1. Two types of metal profile for mounting the frame: PN - "guide" (English marking UW) - is attached to the floor, ceiling and load-bearing walls in order to design the outline of the structure. It is also used when creating a doorway. PS - "rack-mount" (English marking CW) - is installed vertically to ensure the rigidity of the frame. It is the bearing element of the crate.
2. Plasterboard for sheathing - closes the frame on both sides.
3. Insulation - fills inner part structures, increasing its heat and sound insulation properties.

1 - metal profile; 2 - material for heat and sound insulation; 3 - drywall

When choosing the basic materials for the construction of a partition, it is necessary to take into account its individual parameters and the requirements that it must meet. Let's consider this question in more detail:

• Profile. Standard installation of interior frame structures implies the possibility of using material with a base width of 50, 75 or 100 mm. The choice of this parameter depends on the height of the ceilings of the room - the higher they are, the wider the profile should be and the partition itself should be thicker.
• Drywall. There are several types of material for sheathing the frame, the choice here depends only on the characteristics of the room. For example: when installing a partition in a bathroom, you need to use GKLV - a moisture-resistant type of drywall, and the creation of curved and figured structures will require the use of thinner sheets.
• Insulation material. It is selected based on the requirements for the partition and the characteristics of the room - when dividing the room into a study and a nursery, you will need a good sound insulator (cork board or dense foam), and it will come in handy to highlight the hallway area basalt wool excellent heat retention.

In addition to the main structural elements, to create it you will need:

• Dowel-nails (6x40 or 6x60 mm) - installation of the profile to the ceilings.
• Self-tapping screws for metal (LB 9 or LB 11) - fastening frame elements.
• Self-tapping drywall piercing screws (MN 25 or MN 30) – cladding installation.
• Sealing (damper) tape - a gasket between the guide profile and the main floors.
• Corner profile (PU) - reinforcement of the joint of sheathing sheets at the corners of the doorway.

The whole structure will be mounted using three types of fasteners

Master's advice: When purchasing everything you need, at the same time purchase materials for sealing joints between sheets and masking the areas for screwing in self-tapping screws on the surface of the skin - a reinforcing sickle tape, a primer for gypsum boards, and finishing putty.

Measurements + consumables calculation table

To avoid unnecessary financial costs and eliminate the need for additional purchase of material, you should correctly calculate its required amount. There is no difficulty in this event - you need to measure the height and length of the proposed structure and determine its main parameters (profile width and number of skin layers). Consider the calculation of the material, taking as an example a partition 5 meters long and 3 meters high with a doorway 0.8 meters wide and 2.1 meters high, with a profile frame 75 mm wide and single-layer sheathing with plasterboard sheets.

• Guide profile (UW). We calculate the perimeter of our structure (5 m + 3 m) * 2 = 16 m. Subtract from this value the width of the doorway (0.8) and get 15.2 m. It is known that the height of the partition is 3 m, therefore, we will definitely need two three-meter strips, which we will fix entirely, vertically to the bearing walls. The rest of the length of 9.2 m will be covered with three four-meter strips of the profile (12 m), and the excess (2.8 m) will be useful for reinforcing the frame at the door installation site and mounting jumpers between the posts.

  The black color indicates the UW profile, which forms the outline of the structure

• Rack profile (CW). Considering standard width GKL sheet (1.2 m), the vertical racks of the frame must be mounted in increments of no more than 0.6 m, so that the joints of the plates are connected on one profile, and one more element is in the middle of the sheet.

  Frame racks should be mounted at a distance of no more than 600 mm from each other

• Knowing the length of the partition, we can calculate the number of racks by dividing 5 m by 0.6 and as a result we get 8 strips 3 meters long (the indicator is determined in accordance with the height of the structure).

  The gray color marks the vertical posts of the partition frame from the CW profile

• Profile for a doorway. At the door installation site, we will have to move one rack, reinforcing it with a strip of a guide profile, the same constructive solution will be applied on the other side of the opening. Thus, we need another three-meter rack profile (CW) and two guide strips (UW), the same length. To decorate the upper part of the doorway, a segment of the guide profile 1.0 m long will be used.

  Green color highlights two load-bearing reinforced racks, blue - lintel (upper beam) of the doorway

• Profile for jumpers between racks. To increase the strength of the frame, horizontal jumpers from the guide profile are installed between the posts at a height of 1.5 m. This will require another UW strip 3 m long and the excess that remained when calculating the contour of the partition.

  Jumpers from the UW profile are marked in blue, increasing the overall rigidity of the structure

• Drywall. As a material for sheathing, we use sheets (plates) of GKL 3000 long, 1200 wide and 12.5 mm thick. To close one side of the frame, we need five sheets, two of which will be used entirely, and the remaining three will have to be cut to size. The calculation of drywall for the second side of the partition is performed so that the joints of the sheets do not intersect, but are shifted by half the sheet. Five slabs are also needed here - two full and three trimmed.

  On one side of the frame, the sheathing sheets will be arranged in this way

  The second side of the frame must be closed with the sheets offset by one post or 600 mm

Advice of the master: Double-sided installation of GKL sheets with offset joints will increase the rigidity of the structure, significantly reducing the possibility of deformation and reducing the likelihood of cracks on the surface of the material. If you need a more durable partition - use two layers of drywall when sheathing it.

Summing up the calculations, we can conclude that to create a 5x3 m plasterboard partition with a doorway, we need:

• guide profile (UW–75) 3 meters - 5 strips;
• guide profile (UW–75) 4 meters - 3 lanes;
• rack profile (CW–75) 3 meters - 9 strips;
• drywall (GKL 1200x3000x12.5 mm) - 10 sheets.

The number of hardware (fasteners) is calculated based on the step of their installation. The maximum distance between the dowels that fasten the guide profile to the floors should not exceed 500 mm, and self-tapping drywall screws are mounted every 250–300 mm.

Engineers of the German company KNAUF - the world leader in the production of materials and technologies for frame construction- prepared a table that will help us when performing calculations.

Position	Name	Unit measurements	Quantity per sq. m
1	KNAUF-list (GKL, GKLV, GKLO)	sq. m	2,0
2	KNAUF profile PN 50/40 (75/40, 100/40)	linear m	0,7
3	KNAUF profile PS 50/50 (75/50, 100/50)	linear m	2,0
4	Screw TN 25	PC.	29
5	Putty Knauf-Fugen	kg	0,6
6	Reinforcing tape	linear m	1,5
7	Dowel K 6/35	PC.	1,6
8	Sealing tape	linear m	1,2
9	Primer Knauf-Tifengrund	l	0,2
10	Mineral wool insulation Knauf	sq. m	1,0
11	Knauf profile PU	PC.	*

*Note that the number corner profile(PU) depends on the size of the doorway and is not related to the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe structure.

Attention! To simplify calculations during the construction of a plasterboard partition, you can use a special online calculator that shows the approximate consumption of the base material and all other components.

How to do it yourself: step by step instructions

So, all the important stages of preparation for work have been completed, let's be patient, enlist the support of loved ones, get the approval of the neighbors and proceed to the installation of the structure.

Expert tip: Any construction works with the use of drywall should be carried out at an air temperature in the room not lower than +15 C. Installation of structures is best done before finishing the floors and painting works. Before measures to create a partition, the surface of the main floors should be leveled, filling potholes, seams and cracks with putty.

Layout and layout

Before proceeding with the installation of the structure, we will determine the place of its installation and draw up a schematic plan, according to which the markup will be carried out. This stage of work is as follows:

Attention! It should be remembered that the line we have applied is a mark for attaching the guide profile. To determine the exact boundary of the structure itself, here you need to add the thickness of the drywall boards and the layer of its finish.

Lathing installation

Having finished with the markup, we will carefully check the correctness of its application and proceed to the manufacture of the metal frame of our partition:

1. An angle grinder (“grinder”) or metal scissors will cut pieces of the UW guide profile of the desired length. On the back side of the blanks, we will stick a sealing damper tape that softens sound vibrations and vibrations that will be transmitted to the structure from the main floors.

   Sealing damper tape will protect the structure from sound vibrations and vibration

2. We fix the strips along the horizontal marking line, drilling holes for dowel-nails with a puncher (in increments of no more than 400–500 mm) and hammering fasteners hammer. Experienced craftsmen advise starting with the top rail located on the ceiling, since it will be easier to “shoot through” with a plumb line the correct installation of the floor profile.

   We drill holes for the dowel-nails with a perforator and hammer the fasteners with a hammer

3. Let's install vertical guides, fixing them to the bearing walls (with the same step) along the marking line and controlling the correct installation using the building level. Note that fasteners of a metal profile to brick walls with a thick layer of plaster will require the use of longer dowel-nails (6x60 or 8x60).

   When mounting the guides to the bearing walls, we check the vertical using the building level

4. Let's form doorway by installing racks made of reinforced profile in the marked place. Let's measure the distance between the lower and upper part of the frame contour, be sure to subtract 10 mm from this value and cut off two strips of the CW profile of this size. There are several options for reinforcing parts - you can insert the guide profile into the rack and fix it on both sides with self-tapping screws for metal (every 150-200 mm) or you can strengthen the CW strip with a dry wooden beam, picking it up in size, inserting it inside and also fastening it with self-tapping screws.

   We insert the rack profile into the guide and fasten the structure with metal screws

5. We install a reinforced stand in the floor guide of the frame, bring the top of the strip into the ceiling (this is where a 10 mm gap comes in handy), check the strict vertical of the element with a level and fix the part with metal screws. We mount the second rack in the same way.

   When installing the rack, first install it in the lower rail, then carefully insert it into the upper

6. Let's set the racks from the CW profile with a step of 600 mm, starting from any of bearing walls. The installation process of these elements completely coincides with the installation of reinforced racks - we cut the parts into strips 10 mm less than the distance between the guides, we check the verticality with a level, we perform fasteners with metal screws. Note that the step size of 600 mm should fall in the middle of the rack profile, since it is at this point that the sheathing sheets with a standard width of 1200 mm will be joined.

   The rack profile is attached to the rails with metal screws

7. We will mount the horizontal jumper (upper beam) of the doorway. We cut off a piece 200 mm longer than the distance between the reinforced posts from the guide profile strip. We measure 100 mm from each edge of the part and cut the side parts perpendicular to the base, leaving it intact. Carefully bend these segments inward and get a profile strip of the desired size with blind ends.

   Inside the upper beam of the opening, you can insert a wooden beam, further reinforcing the structure

8. We will install a jumper between the posts of the opening in the right place (we will take into account the height of the door block, as well as the possibility of further installation of the finishing floor covering), check the horizontal with a building level and fix the part with self-tapping screws for metal. This structural element can also be strengthened in any of the ways mentioned.
9. If the height of the room at the installation site of the partition exceeds 3 m, you will have to make and install additional stiffeners - transverse jumpers between the racks. The parts are made in the same way as the upper beam of the doorway and are attached to the CW rack profile with metal self-tapping screws.

   Option for the location of transverse jumpers in a frame with a height of more than 3 m

10. Inside the finished frame of the partition, we will install embedded elements from a profile, strong thick plywood or timber, to which it will be possible to attach hanging cabinets, heavy mirrors and sconces. After that, we will mount the electrical wiring, laying it in a special corrugated pipe, and also lay all the necessary communications and pipelines.

    The wooden beam must be fixed at the installation sites of heavy hanging cabinets and other massive interior elements.

This completes the installation of the frame, you can proceed to the next, no less important step in creating the partition.

Sheathing of the frame with the installation of heat and sound insulation

In order for the structure to reliably store heat and protect peace from extraneous noise, its insides must be filled with a special insulating material. Long-term practice shows that an inexpensive, but high-quality heat and sound insulator - mineral (stone or basalt) wool - is quite suitable for these purposes.

Plates from mineral wool Reliably retain heat, as well as isolate the room from extraneous noise

Expert tip: In order to fill the frame of the interior partition, purchase mineral wool slabs or mats desired thickness- the material of this form of manufacture is easily cut to size and conveniently fits between the elements of the crate.

Before installing a layer of heat and sound insulation inside the structure, perform the following steps:

1. We will sheathe one side of the frame with drywall, starting from the whole sheet from the wall where the 600 mm step counting began for racks from the CW profile. Remember that when installing the GKL, it is imperative to leave a gap of 5-10 mm at the junction of the plate with the ceiling and floor. The material tends to expand with changes in temperature and humidity, and a “blind” installation in a spacer can lead to its deformation and cracking.

   The cladding is mounted from a whole sheet from the wall where the set of racks began

2. We fasten the cladding sheet to the profile, twisting self-tapping screws for gypsum boards around the entire perimeter in increments of 250–300 mm. We recess the heads of self-tapping screws into the drywall to a depth of 0.5–0.8 mm.

   The heads of self-tapping screws should be slightly recessed into the drywall surface.

3. With a jigsaw or a knife, we cut the rest of the sheathing elements to size and fasten them in such a way that the sheets are joined exactly in the middle of the rack profile.

   We join drywall sheets exactly in the middle of the profile

4. Having closed one side of the frame, we lay the insulating material inside, cutting it with a small allowance and inserting it between the racks by surprise.

   Mineral wool cut to size slabs are laid between the racks of the crate

5. We mount the cladding on the other side of the partition, shifting the sheets by 600 mm (one rack) relative to the closed part of the surface - this method of attaching the cladding will significantly increase the strength of the structure.

   We close the other side of the frame with gypsum plasterboard, shifting the sheet by one rack (600 mm)

6. We will strengthen the joints and edges of the sheets at the installation site of the doorway with an angular profile.

Attention! When mounting the cladding from the GKL, remember that the sheet must be fixed around the entire perimeter - for attaching extensions or parts custom size you will have to insert additional profile elements into the frame.

final chords

Having finished the sheathing of the partition frame, we insert into it door block and solve the issue with finishing the surface of drywall. If a strict vertical was observed during the installation of the opening, the installation of the block will not cause any difficulties.

The issue with the surface finish of the skin is also solved quite simply:

Now the partition with the door is ready for any kind of finishing - it can be wallpapered, painted, ceramic tiles or decorative plaster applied - it depends only on your imagination and financial capabilities. For more information about the installation process frame structure, sheathed with drywall, we bring to your attention the following video.

Video: How to build a GKL partition and install a door

Many years of professional experience shows that our fellow citizens are increasingly choosing drywall for the installation of additional load-bearing walls or interior partitions in their homes. This material is easy to handle and allows you to create such structures without resorting to the help of a team of builders, whose services are not cheap at all. We hope that now you will be able to do this work yourself without any problems.