Installation of metal tiles: step-by-step instructions for self-finishing the roof. Do-it-yourself installation of a metal tile roof - step-by-step instructions Installation of metal tile sheets
How to lay a metal tile? This question is asked by almost all developers who have chosen this modern, practical and durable material. We will try to tell in the most detailed way what technology of metal tile installation is recommended by its manufacturers and which metal tile installation scheme is most preferable.
The main advantages of metal tile modules are good strength and high fire-fighting properties.
In addition, you will learn how the roofing "pie" works, what materials and tools will be needed to build the roof, and much more. We hope that our instructions for laying metal tiles will be useful to both developers and builders, regardless of whether you are building a house or making a canopy from metal tiles.
Metal tile: installation technology
A design made according to this scheme, with the proper selection of materials, will provide you with a reliable and durable roof.
Briefly about the roofing "pie". Before starting the installation of a metal tile (you can download the video or watch it a little lower), let's recall some concepts and a diagram of the roofing "pie". It got its name because of the large number of layers that perform various functions. It is this design, with the proper selection of materials, that will provide you with a reliable and durable roof.
Regardless of whether you do the installation of metal tiles with your own hands or hire installers, it is important to clearly understand that the roof is quite complex structure, during the construction of which it is necessary to strictly follow the recommendations for the installation of metal tiles, which are given by manufacturers, as well as all building codes and regulations.
Constantly keep under control the entire installation of metal tiles (you can download the video instruction or watch it here), since the consequences of poor-quality work may not appear immediately. So, poorly laid vapor and waterproofing can lead to the accumulation of condensate, deterioration of thermal insulation properties, rotting wooden elements designs. Keep in mind that, only by observing all the rules for installing metal tiles, you can build a reliable and durable roof.
Metal tile and installation structural elements produced according to next sequence(scheme N 1):
The technology of installation of a roof made of metal tiles implies mandatory protection of the insulation from the side of the MCH with the help of film waterproofing, and from the side of the premises - film vapor barrier.
- Rafter system.
- Counter rails.
- Waterproofing film.
- Bars of a vertical crate.
- The initial bar of the horizontal crate.
- Bars of a horizontal lathing.
- Additional crate.
- Wind board.
- Gutter bracket.
- Cornice plank.
- Metal tile.
- Roof ridge.
- Skate seal.
- Hearing window.
- Thermal insulation.
- Vapor barrier.
- Attic lining.
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Installation instructions for metal tiles (Monterrey and its analogues)
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Tools and equipment
Installation of Monterrey metal tile and its analogues must begin with preparation necessary tool. You will need:
1. Manual scissors for metal.
2. Hacksaw (with fine teeth).
3. Cutting shears for metal.
4. Special nozzle for a drill for cutting metal.
5. Electric nibblers.
6. Electric jigsaw.
7. Circular saw.
8. Bulgarian with an abrasive wheel.
- tool for cutting sheets of metal (MCH);
- screwdriver (preferably cordless);
- hammer of medium size;
- long straight rail or rule;
- marker.
- scissors for metal (manual and electric);
- hacksaw or electric reciprocating saw with appropriate blades;
- electric cutting shears;
- jigsaw;
- circular saw with victorious teeth.
At the end of the work, carefully remove the metal filings, otherwise they, rusting, will spoil polymer coating MCH.
Attention! In no case do not cut the metal tile with tools with abrasive wheels ("grinder"). Otherwise under the influence high temperatures not only the polymer layer will be destroyed, but also the zinc coating. The result will be disappointing: a rapid rusting process will begin, rusty streaks will appear on your roof.
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Installation of metal tiles (Monterey and analogues)
If thermal insulation boards have already been purchased, then the pitch of the rafters will depend on their width, since subsequently the insulation will be inserted between the roof rafters.
The step of the rafters under the metal tile should be in the range of 550-900 mm. Keep in mind that if you have already purchased thermal insulation boards, then the pitch of the rafters will depend on their width, since subsequently the insulation will be inserted between the roof rafters. As a material for rafters, as a rule, a bar with a section of 150x50 mm is chosen.
After the rafters are installed, it is necessary to perform control measurements of the slopes. Check the squareness and flatness of the structure, for this, measure the diagonals of the slopes. Small deviations (up to 10 mm) are acceptable, they can later be hidden with additional elements.
Please note that if a metal tile is used for the roof, the slope of the slope must be at least 14 °. The length of the sheets is determined by the main size - the length of the slope. It is measured from the ridge to the eaves, taking into account the eaves overhang (at least 40 mm). If your slope is more than 6 m long, then the sheets must be broken into two or more pieces, which are then laid with an overlap. The overlap of the metal tile should be about 150 mm. Of course, when using long sheets on a slope, fewer joints are obtained, but it is much more difficult to lay them than short ones.
The length of the insulation should be 2-3 cm more than the distance between the rafters.
With diurnal temperature fluctuations, condensation may appear on the lower surface of the MP. Also warm air from the house, containing moisture vapor, penetrates into the cold under-roof space. Excess moisture leads to wetting of the insulation layer, and consequently, its thermal performance deteriorates. As a result, the roof freezes, ice forms on the metal tile, rafters and crates rot, mold appears and collapses. interior decoration premises.
To avoid all these troubles, the installation manual for metal tiles of any manufacturer strongly recommends using insulation of the required thickness. In addition, the technology of installation of a roof made of metal tiles implies mandatory protection of the insulation from the side of the MCH with the help of film waterproofing, and from the side of the premises - film vapor barrier.
To remove moisture vapor from the under-roof space, it is necessary to create natural ventilation, that is, to provide free movement air from the roof eaves to its ridge. To do this, between the MCH and the waterproofing film, by means of the crate, leave free space(about 40 mm). On the cornice overhangs, when they are hemmed, gaps are left, and special holes are released in the rubber seal of the ridge.
Roll out the waterproofing horizontally on the rafters. Start from the eaves, making a sag of about 20 mm. Make an overlap between adjacent panels (approximately 150 mm). Films of the Yutafol or Yutacon brand should be placed outward with the side that has a colored strip along the edge. Flipping the film is not allowed. On the market today you can find a sufficient number of certain roofing films. Consult with managers about the features of their application.
1. Rafter leg.
2. Waterproofing material.
3. Control grid.
4. Lathing.
After installing the waterproofing material, it is possible to simultaneously lay the roof covering on the outside and thermal insulation inside the building. Install heat-insulating boards between the rafters, leaving a gap of at least 20 mm for the Yutafol or Yutacon waterproofing, otherwise the film will lose its properties. If you purchased Tyvek or Yutavek brand film, there is no need to make a gap.
On the inner surfaces of the rafters, fix the vapor barrier "Yutafol H Silver" or "Yutafol H 110" with a stapler. Lay the vapor barrier sheets with an overlap, hermetically connecting them with adhesive tape. After completing this stage of work, you can begin inner lining(if it is an attic floor).
Carry out the crate from antiseptic-treated beams with a section of 50x50 mm and edged boards 32x100 mm (approximate values). First, nail falling beams onto the rafters over the waterproofing film from the ridge to the eaves, and then fasten the batten boards on them.
Take the first board of the crate (if you count from the cornice) thicker than the others (about 10-15 mm). Now the most important thing is to maintain the necessary distances between the boards. If you have a Monterrey metal tile, the installation of the second board must be carried out, stepping back from the bottom edge of the first board 300 mm (measure to the middle of the second board being nailed).
Before mounting the metal tile, in the inner junction of the slopes, the bottom bar of the valley is fastened with self-tapping screws to the solid crate. If the planks need to be joined, an overlap is made (100-150 mm).
The same distance for MCH "MP Maxi" is 350 mm. The center distance of all subsequent boards of the crate (32x100 mm) for the "Monterey" or "Supermonterey" MCH is 350 mm, for the "Maxi" MCH - 400 mm. If you have made a rafter pitch of more than 1000 mm, use thicker batten boards.
Perform a continuous crate in the valleys, near the chimneys, along the perimeter of the dormers and dormers. On both sides of the ridge, nail two additional edged boards, and lift the end strips above the ordinary crate, to a height equal to the height of the MCH profile.
Before mounting the metal tile, in the inner junction of the slopes on a continuous crate, fasten the bottom bar of the valley with self-tapping screws. If the planks need to be joined, overlap (about 100-150 mm). Then mark and cut (if necessary) the MCH sheets. Mount the metal tile from the bottom up.
From above, at the junction of sheets (it rarely looks beautiful), install a decorative element - the upper bar of the valley. Attention! Junction nodes are the weakest point of the roof. Therefore, so that later you do not have to repair metal tiles, approach their device especially carefully.
To ensure a hermetic adjoining of the roof from the MCH to the chimneys and walls, an internal apron is made on the slope. Use the lower junction bars for its manufacture. Attach the plank to the pipe wall and mark the top edge of the plank on the brick. Then, along the marked line with the help of a grinder, punch a strobe. After chasing is completed, remove dust and rinse the working section of the wall with water.
Start installing the inner apron from the wall of the pipe located on the underside of the slope (from the side of the eaves, not the ridge). Cut the bar in place, install and secure with self-tapping screws. Using the same principle, install the apron on all remaining sides of the pipe. If you have to join the planks, overlap (about 150 mm). Process the edge of the apron wound into the strobe silicone sealant(it is better if it is colorless).
Fasten the gutter holders to the bottom board of the crate. Their method of attachment and pitch is determined by the type of drainage system used.
Then, under the lower edge of the inner apron, put flat sheet, the so-called tie, which will ensure the flow of water. Direct the tie either into the valley or down to the roof eaves. Along the edge of the tie, using pliers and a hammer, make a rim.
Mount MCH sheets on top of the apron and tie. After laying the roof covering around chimney, proceed to the manufacture and installation of the outer apron. For its manufacture, use the upper junction bars. Install them in the same way as the lower ones, only do not insert the upper edge into the strobe, but fasten it directly to the wall.
Attention! All movements on the roof from the MCH must be carried out only if safety measures are observed. Wear soft, comfortable, non-slip shoes. Step only into the deflection of the wave. Put on the installer's belt and fasten the tether.
Fasten the gutter holders to the bottom board of the crate. Their method of attachment and pitch is determined by the type of drainage system used. So read the instructions that come with it. Special attention pay attention to the location of the edge of the gutter. It should be below the edge of the metal tile by 25-30 mm. This is necessary to maintain the integrity of the gutters when snow layers leave the roof.
If the gutter system has a rectangular cross section, then the gutter is simply inserted and fixed in the holders. The cornice strip is attached to the roof lathing, while the lower edge of the strip overlaps the edge of the gutter. The waterproofing film is removed above the eaves (to drain condensate).
When installing a round gutter, you need to bring its rear edge into the locking ledge on the holder. The cornice strip is installed according to the above method. Roofing film is also displayed above the cornice strip.
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Installation of metal tiles - instructions for installing skylights
The number of windows required for a comfortable attic lighting level can be determined by the ratio usable area glazing to the area of the room. Values from 1:8 to 1:12 are recommended.
Let's make a small digression and consider the option of a roof with skylights. The number of windows required for a comfortable level of attic lighting can be determined by the ratio of the usable glazing area to the area of the room. Values from 1:8 to 1:12 are recommended. That is, if your attic has an area of 100 sq.m, then the total area of \u200b\u200bwindows should be 10 sq.m. It is recommended to install skylights at a height of 90-110 cm from the floor level. When choosing windows, also consider that two windows small size located at some distance will give more light than one large one.
In addition, you can install skylights in groups, horizontally, vertically or in combination. As a rule, windows are installed on the crate with simultaneous fastening to the rafters. Although there may be some peculiarities depending on the manufacturer skylights. If the horizontal dimensions of the window do not match the pitch of the rafters, a partial change will be required. roof structure. In this case, it is recommended to install a rafter fragment and additional horizontal counter rails that fix it. The opening under the window should exceed its dimensions by 40-60 mm in the horizontal plane and by 45 mm in the vertical plane. Usually the installation of skylights is not difficult, since each window has detailed instructions for installation.
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The first sheet is aligned along the end of the roof and is fixed with one self-tapping screw in the upper part. At the same time, a visor made of metal tiles (removal) of the order of 40 mm is made at the eaves.
Align the first sheet along the end of the roof and secure with one self-tapping screw in the upper part. At the same time, make a visor of metal tiles (removal) of about 40 mm at the eaves. Lay the second sheet with an overlap on the first (if you are mounting from right to left) or bring the edge of the second sheet under the first - when mounting from left to right.
Between each other, connect the sheets with self-tapping screws in the upper part of the overlap, while not screwing them to the crate and provide them with the opportunity to move relative to the self-tapping screw holding the first sheet in the upper, ridge part.
Lay the third sheet in the same way as the second. Align all three sheets connected to each other parallel to the eaves. If it is necessary to join the sheets along the length, lay them in the order indicated in Figure B. Attention! If your metal tile is equipped with protective film be sure to remove it during installation.
Fasten the lower part of the sheet with self-tapping screws to the sole of the MCH wave. Step through the wave. Arrange the subsequent rows of self-tapping screws in a checkerboard pattern, also alternating them through the wave. Fasten the side overlaps of the sheets with self-tapping screws for each ridge. The estimated consumption of self-tapping screws during the installation of metal tiles is 6-8 pieces / sq.m of roofing.
Attention! When buying a metal tile, check with the supplier for the terms of the guarantee. The fact is that some manufacturers provide a guarantee for the MCH only if they use self-tapping screws of a strictly defined brand. Therefore, advice: buy self-tapping screws from a metal tile supplier.
At the ends of the roof, install end strips with an overlap of 50 mm. Fix them with self-tapping screws through 550-600 mm. Use self-tapping screws 80 mm long on the top, 28 mm on the side. Trim the planks if necessary.
Under the ridge, a curly seal must be placed, after releasing ventilation holes.
Skate bars can be flat or round. Start installing the round ridge bar by fixing flat or conical plugs on its ends with self-tapping screws or rivets (choose their shape in accordance with the shape of your roof). For a flat ridge, no plugs are required.
Place a curly seal under the ridge, after releasing the ventilation holes. Install a flat or round ridge on the laid seal. Place ridge screws 80 mm long through the MCH wave. Make an overlap of 100 mm between the individual ridge panels.
The choice of roofing material is not an easy task. It is necessary that the roof be reliable, beautiful, durable, and even, preferably, inexpensive. All these requests are answered by a roof made of metal. It must be added to the pluses that it is not the most difficult installation, which even a person without roofing experience can handle with their own hands.
Metal roofing is beautiful, reliable, durable and inexpensive
Types of metal tiles
The metal tile is molded from sheet metal 0.35-0.7 mm thick, on which protective and decorative compositions. It turns out a multi-layer cake. The basis of this building material- most often steel, but there are options from copper and aluminum. Since aluminum and copper are much more expensive than steel, products made from them have a high price. For this reason, copper or aluminum metal tiles are almost never found, but if desired, they can be delivered to order.
There are on sale both imported and domestic metal tiles. The European version comes strictly from steel 0.5 mm thick - this is spelled out in the standard. In our GOST, from 0.45 to 0.5 mm is allowed.
Except different materials bases, a different protective coating is applied. First of all, there are two types of steel protection against oxidation - zinc and aluminum-zinc. The second option appeared not so long ago, but it is he who provides better protection, although such processing costs a little more.
More different formulations there is a finish coating, one that, along with weather protection, gives the material one color or another.
Types of protective and decorative external coatings
The outer covering of the metal tile performs two functions at the same time. It protects the base metal from corrosion, and gives the material an attractive appearance. There are the following types of this coverage:
- The most common metal roofing has a glossy polyester (PE) coating - about 70% of the total number of roofs are covered with this type of material. All because he has average price and good features. Layer thickness 25-30 microns, service life 5-10 years. This coating is resistant to ultraviolet radiation and corrosion, but is easily damaged mechanically - scratches appear even when a large amount of snow comes off. Therefore, polyester metal tiles are not recommended for use in regions with heavy snowfalls. In other areas, to prevent massive snowfall, it is desirable to install a snow retention system. If you cover the roof with such material, you must be careful during installation.
- Matte polyester (MPE) is obtained by adding Teflon. As a result, the film is more durable - the service life is 10-15 years, it can also be used in snowy regions. This composition is applied with a thickness of at least 35 microns. Disadvantage of roof tiles matte polyester- a smaller range of colors (about 20 shades compared to 40 glossy).
- Plastisol (PVC) is a PVC-based compound. It has a beautiful structural surface, is applied in a layer of 200 microns, due to which the coating is resistant to damage. The disadvantage is low resistance to ultraviolet radiation, which significantly narrows the range of use. In addition, in some countries, due to the presence of polyvinyl chloride, this coating is prohibited.
- Pural is a coating based on polyurethane with additives of polymers. Available in glossy (PUR) and matte (MatPUR) versions. Layer thickness - 50 microns, service life - up to 30 years. This is one of the best options: resistant to mechanical damage(worse than palstisol, but better than all the others), tolerates ultraviolet and aggressive environments well, can be used for roofing on the sea coast.
Pural is one of the most durable coatings
- Polydifluoride (PVF or PVDF) is a composition based on polyvinyl fluoride with the addition of acrylic (20%). The main advantage is the high elasticity of the coating, due to which, with a small thickness (30 microns), the film is very resistant to mechanical damage. Other advantages are a wide range of colors, fade resistance, long service life - up to 30 years. The disadvantage is the highest price.
The most expensive and durable coating is polydifluoride
It is clear that when building a house you do not want to spend extra money. Probably for this reason, most developers choose the cheapest option - polyester-coated metal tiles. But this is not the most The best decision. Let's guess. The service life of a metal tile with polyester is no more than 5-10 years, the average cost - with a metal thickness of 0.45 mm - about 260 rubles / m 2, with a steel thickness of 0.5 mm - 440 rubles / m 2. Even if the roofing material lasts 10 years, the price of a square for a year will be 26 rubles and 44 rubles. Now let's take a very good option - with a pural coating. With a metal thickness of 0.5 mm, the cost is from 510 rubles / m 2 to 635 rubles / m 2 (depending on the manufacturer). Service life - 30 years. For a year of service, this will be 12-17 rubles / m 2. The difference is obvious. And this is without taking into account the work to cover the roof, and this is also time and money.
Profile views
When laying metal tiles, it is important geometric dimensions as well as the parameters of the wave - under them the crate is calculated and mounted. Also, the wave height determines the degree of rigidity of the sheet - with high wind loads, a material with high wave(more than 50 mm) - the most rigid, under normal conditions, a metal tile with a small wave (less than 50 mm) is suitable.
The waveform is symmetrical and asymmetrical, more rounded or with straight lines. There are quite a few different profiles. The table shows the geometric dimensions (useful width of a metal tile sheet, overlap, wave parameters), which will be useful when calculating the quantity.
Metal roofing in 70% of cases is made from the Monterrey profile. It has a rounded, slightly asymmetrical waveform. There are 7 subspecies with different wave parameters.
The next most popular profile is Cascade. About 15% of metal roofs are made of it. It is formed by straight lines, has a clear geometry. It looks very interesting on the roofs of complex shapes with a large number of broken lines.
This profile is used more in regions with average wind and snow loads - the wave height is small, the loads can withstand average.
About 10% of the market is occupied by Andalusia metal tiles. It is more than all the others similar to the classic semicircular tiles. The profile is symmetrical, with pronounced drops.
The profile is designed so that the joint is located on the wall of the wave, it is practically invisible. The impression of a monolithic roofing is created.
Sheet dimensions and wave parameters of the Andalusia metal tile
If we talk about color, then depending on the type of coating, shades are usually from 20 to 40 pieces. Choose the one that suits you more. The service life or other characteristics do not depend on the color, although it is believed that dark colors fade faster. In fact, the rate of fading depends on the quality of the coating and the pigment, but not on the color.
Calculation of the amount of metal tiles
To calculate the required number of sheets of material, you first need to decide on the type of profile and the manufacturer of the metal tile - you will need exact dimensions the material itself, and each profile has its own. Then you need to make accurate measurements of the slopes - length, height, if any, you need to measure all the protrusions or others decorative elements Which will need to be sheathed with roofing material. If the roof has a complex shape, it is better to draw its plan, put down all the dimensions and then sit down for the calculations.
Number of rows
It is best to look for metal tiles not in stores or markets. It is advisable to go directly to the manufacturer. It's not just the price - it may not differ very much, but the fact that many workshops / factories offer to cut sheets of the required dimensions. The minimum sheet height is 0.7 m, the maximum is 8 m. That is, you can order the required number of sheets covering the roof slope from the ridge to the overhang (including the ledge).
This option is good because the metal roof will not have horizontal joints, which means there will be less chance of a leak. The second plus is the minimum amount of waste and a smaller amount of the material itself (due to the absence of horizontal overlaps, several square meters are saved). Cons - difficulties with delivery, lifting long sheets up, inconvenient installation.
When using sheets standard sizes, the height of the roof slope is divided by usable length sheet. The resulting figure is always rounded up. The useful length is obtained after the horizontal overlap is subtracted from the total length - from 100 to 200 mm. The flatter the slope, the greater the overlap of the sheets is necessary so that precipitation cannot enter the under-roof space. On roofs with a slope of up to 12°, one sheet overlaps the other by at least 200 mm, with a slope of 12° to 30°, the overlap is 150-200 mm, more than 30° - 100-150 mm. The specified amount of overlap is subtracted from the total length of the sheet, this will be the “useful length”.
An example of calculating the number of rows of metal tiles on the roof. Let the length of the slope be 4.5 m, the useful length of the sheet is 2.3 m. Divide 4.5 by 2.3, we get 1.95, round to an integer - we get 2 rows. IN this case only a small part of one sheet will go to waste, but there are times when more than half is cut off. This is very unprofitable, since you can’t use this piece anywhere else.
Number of sheets in a row
Take the length of the slope and divide by the useful width of the sheet. This setting is specified in technical specifications to metal tiles. Most often it is 110 cm (1.1 m). The resulting number is rounded up, we get the number of sheets in a row.
An example of the calculation of sheets of metal tiles in a row. Let the length of the overhang be 8 m, the useful width of the sheet is 1.1 m. When dividing, we get 7.27 pieces, but we round up to a larger integer and get 8 pieces in one row. Moreover, more than 2/3 of one sheet will go to waste.
Features of hip roofs
At hip roofs slopes have a triangular or trapezoidal shape. Here it is necessary to select the length of the sheet - to minimize the amount of waste.
The height is chosen so that no more than half goes to waste. It is quite difficult to do this manually, and still there is a solid error - there will be 20-25% more waste than when calculating using programs. They are usually available from vendors and manufacturers. It is better to provide them with an accurate calculation, and at home to pre-measure the parameters of the roof (or call a measurer), and then try to choose the dimensions yourself. Then you can compare the number required material calculated by you and proposed.
Determination of the number of additional elements
Roofing from metal tiles requires a large number of various additional elements (additions) that form the ridge, the edge of the overhang, the sides of the slope, the passage of the pipe, the valley (the junction of two adjacent roof slopes). The more complex the shape of the roof, the more the amount of extensions required. Downtime gable roof ridge elements and plugs, cornice and gable trims will be needed. That's all.
What are the additional elements for a roof made of metal and why are they needed
Despite the wide variety of extensions, they are all considered the same. Take the length of the surface on which you want to mount and divide by the useful length of the element. It is usually standard and is 1.9 m (total length 2 m). The result is rounded up.
What and how to mount
The metal tile is fixed with special self-tapping screws with rubber washers. As well as the main material, they are made of galvanized steel, and on top they are painted in a tone with its coating. During installation, the self-tapping screw must be screwed in strictly perpendicular to the roof surface, its inclination is not allowed.
When fixing a metal tile, it is also necessary to monitor how tightly the fasteners adhere to the surface. You can’t tighten it too much, bending the metal, but you can’t allow a loose fit either - the connection will not be airtight.
Lathing under the metal tile
A metal tile is a rather rigid material, therefore a sparse crate is made under it, which consists of planks that are located along the roof overhang.
What material
If a metal roof has simple design, an inch edged board (24-25 mm thick) 100 mm wide goes to the crate. On a roof of complex shape or in regions with large snow loads, it is better to use a board of 32 mm thickness or a beam of 50-50 mm. The beam is also used with a large distance between the rafters (more than 80 cm).
Lathing step
Installation of a metal tile on a roof has one important feature. There is the strongest place in the profile - under the step of the wave in the hollow. This is where you need to screw the screw. The crate must be made so that the middle of the bar is just under this place. This is precisely what causes difficulties: profiles have different sizes, therefore, each of them requires its own installation step for the lathing slats. This value can be determined by measuring the already existing material, but, usually, this parameter is indicated in the instructions for the metal tile.
There are a few important points lathing devices for metal tiles. Please note that the first plank along the overhang is thicker than all the others - the step height is added to the selected plank thickness for this profile. In addition, this plank is made wider than all the others - a dropper will be attached to it, which closes the cut, protecting the wood from precipitation.
Also note that the second bar is not stuffed with a standard, but with a shortened step, otherwise you will not get further into the wave. The step is also different when installing the last bar near the ridge - it is obtained in fact, as well as the height of the bar. We remind you that in the area of \u200b\u200bthe ridge should be enough big gaps- and the crate and roofing material should not be joined. This is necessary for proper ventilation of the attic.
Installation procedure and features
Before you cover the roof with a metal tile with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with the rules for working with the material:
- First of all, you need to take care of proper storage- in ventilated stacks, shifted with bars.
- When cutting, do not use an angle grinder (grinder), but cut only with a jigsaw or scissors for metal. The grinder overheats the metal, due to which the zinc evaporates, in the places of the cut the material will begin to rust.
- Start laying the sheets from the lower right corner (the installation diagram of the metal tiles is in the photo below).
- When mounting, wear soft, well-fitting shoes, step only in the lower part of the wave.
Next, we will talk about the device. Metal roofing comes in two versions: with a cold or insulated attic. Depending on the selected type, the order of work changes - when arranging warm attic, two more layers are added - a heater and a vapor barrier membrane from the side of the room.
Cold metal roofing
This type of roof is suitable if attic space planned to be non-residential. Then all the insulation is concentrated in the ceiling, and the function of the roof is only to protect from rain and wind. The order of work is as follows:
Warm roof
When constructing an insulated roof made of metal tiles in the roofing cake, another heat-insulating material is added, which is fixed between the rafters, and a vapor barrier film, which is stuffed onto the rafters from the attic side. Further, the entire installation process is similar.
How to attach sheets
When we cover the roof with a metal tile, we must correctly position the screws. There are several rules to follow:
- Self-tapping screws are installed in the lower part of the wave, 2 cm below the step.
- The bottom row, along the overhang, is attached to each wave. Fasteners are also installed in places of horizontal and vertical joints.
- The waves between the horizontal joints are fastened through one in a checkerboard pattern.
These rules are clearly shown in the diagram. IN graphic image some things are easier to understand.
Installation of a metal tile is a responsible matter, and if you have no experience in such work, then you should first carefully read the installation instructions before proceeding with the purchase of the metal tile itself, fasteners to it and all additional elements used during installation.
Only when proper preparation and laying your roof will last a long time and will not bring trouble.
To begin with, make sure that the slope of the roof slope on which the metal tile will be installed is at least 14 degrees, otherwise the snow load may simply push through it.
Cold or warm roof
Before starting work with the roof, you should decide what it will be like in your house. warm or cold. The main difference is whether you have a warm second floor or just cold attic. In the case of a warm roof, thermal insulation is laid inside the rafters under the metal tile, in the case of a cold one, it is laid along the upper floor of the house - in the floor of the second floor.
The hardest part is building warm system- we will consider it.
Rafter system and hydro - thermal insulation
For the installation of the truss system, it is recommended to use a bar measuring 50 by 150-200 mm, the so-called "floor" board. The distance between the mounted rafters should be within 800-1000 mm. If you are making a warm roof, then select this distance according to the width of your thermal insulation material. Most often, this value is 600 mm.
After installing the rafter system, be sure to measure the diagonals of the slopes at the future roof. The difference in diagonals should not be more than 2 centimeters. All rafters must be in the same plane. If you find discrepancies in size or in plane, then you should eliminate the defects by stuffing additional elements or cutting off the excess.
Now, in truss system, you should install the so-called " roofing cake”, which includes vapor barrier, insulation and waterproofing. You need to understand that from how you lay this "pie" in the future the roof will serve you.
This is what it looks like in the diagram below. Order from top to bottom:
- metal tile;
- crate;
- Waterproofing;
- insulation;
- Vapor barrier.
The first step is to fill the bottom of the rafters with vapor barrier material. The vapor barrier material prevents the penetration of vapors into the thickness of the insulation. It is more convenient to fix it with the help of mounting stapler brackets. Roll out rolls of vapor barrier material, horizontally starting from the eaves upwards to the ridge with an overlap of 15-20 cm. For tightness, it is recommended to glue the joints of the material with a special adhesive tape.
Insulation mats are laid on top of the vapor barrier between the rafters. The insulation should not go beyond the rafters in height, as it will lie with sag on top waterproofing material, and it should not touch the insulation.
Next, a waterproofing material is laid, which serves to drain condensate into the gutter. It is also fastened with staples of a construction stapler to the top of the rafters or immediately with slats of a vertical crate with dimensions of 25, 30 or 50 by 50 mm. There are two rules to keep in mind:
- 1. The waterproofing material cannot be laid in an interference fit; it should sag a little between the rafters by 15-20 mm.
- 2. The waterproofing material should also not touch the insulation. The air gap must be at least 30 mm.
It is rolled out in the same way as a vapor barrier - from the bottom parallel to the cornice, each subsequent canvas comes with an overlap of 150-200 mm. The very first thing, it is the same lower waterproofing sheet that should be laid so that its lower edge can then be led onto the eaves, so that the resulting condensate flows freely into the gutter. The last canvas is not thrown over the skate, but starts from the other side from the bottom.
Along the entire length of the ridge, approximately 200 mm wide, there should be a gap between the waterproofing on both sides of the roof for air to escape.
Lathing for installation of metal tiles
The next stage is the manufacture of vertical and horizontal battens, on which sheets of metal tiles will be installed. Vertical slats (counter-slats) are stuffed over the waterproofing along the entire length of the rafters from the bottom up. It is recommended to stick a special sealing tape, this tape will prevent further wetting of the counter-battens from moisture formed on the waterproofing. Further, they are already stuffed horizontally with a certain gap of the board of the crate itself. The size of the gap is determined by the brand and type of metal tile - usually this is the wave width - 350 mm. To control the correct size of the gap between the boards, a special tool is used - a template for the crate.
The recommended dimensions of the boards for the crate for the installation of metal tiles are 25 or 35 per 100 mm. The horizontal crate should start from the eaves. The first board should be 15 mm higher than the rest. For example, if boards 25 by 100 mm are used for the main crate, then the first "cornice" board should be 40 mm thick. The difference of 15 mm is just the height of the metal tile step. This step should be parallel to the eaves, and the projection beyond the eaves should be such that water flowing from the roof falls into the middle of the gutter.
The second board of the crate is installed at a distance of 300 mm, the countdown goes from the center of the first cornice board to the center of the second. The next ones already go to the very ridge with a step of 350 mm between the centers of the boards.
On the ridge, along each slope of the roof, an additional board is butt-packed butt.
The crate is finished, you can proceed with the installation of metal tiles and accessories.
Installation of brackets for gutters
Before starting the installation of metal tiles, you must first install the brackets for the gutter and the cornice strip.
The installation begins with the fastening of the extreme brackets of the drain. This is done in order to be able to install correct angle tilt to drain water in the right direction.
We fix the first bracket-holder with self-tapping screws to the eaves board and bend it down.
With the help of a water level, we set a mark for the bracket of the lower end of the gutter. The slope should be between 2 and 5 mm for each running meter. After that, we mount the lower holder according to the mark. Now we stretch the rope between the extreme holders.
Focusing on the rope, we install the rest of the drain holders. The distance between them should be 500-800 mm. The overhang of the drain from the last bracket must be at least 50 mm.
Further, the chute adjusted to the size is inserted into the holders and fixed with special petals on the holders.
The field of installation of a drain should install a cornice strip. It serves to protect the frontal board from the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation. We install the bar so that its lower edge overlaps the edge of the gutter. If one plank is not enough, then we install the next one with an overlap of 40-50 mm and fasten the plank with self-tapping screws to the frontal and cornice board with an interval of 300-400 mm.
After installing the cornice strip on top of it, we glue the connecting adhesive tape (Double-sided tape) and glue the bottom edge of the waterproofing material on it.
Installation of sheets of metal
Sheets of metal tiles are more convenient to mount if they have a length equal to the length of the slope. In this case, it is not necessary to join the lower and upper sheets. But this is permissible if the length of the slope does not exceed 8 meters.
Start the installation of sheets of metal should be from the end edge of the roof slope. If done from right to left, then each subsequent sheet is placed in one wave on top of the previous one. If from left to right, then the edge (one wave) of each subsequent sheet is placed under the previous one. The first sheet should be immediately aligned from the bottom along the cornice and from the side along the end of the roof, for this it is fixed with one self-tapping screw at the ridge and leveled. The bottom edge of the sheet should protrude 50 mm from the eaves.
To fasten the metal tile, special self-tapping screws with a rubber gasket are used. Self-tapping screws should be screwed into the gutter groove under the wave. In the photo, on the left, the place of screwing the self-tapping screw is clearly visible. The order of installation of self-tapping screws: through one wave and in a checkerboard pattern.
On square meter metal tiles require 6-8 self-tapping screws. On the ridge and cornice, the sheet should be fastened more often - through the wave. Sheet overlaps are fastened along the crest of the wave under each transverse groove.
Skate bars can be either flat top or rounded. The round bar is completed with plugs - flat or conical. Before fastening the rounded ridge strip with self-tapping screws or rivets, plugs are installed on both sides. A shaped seal is placed under the ridge bar, and the bar is screwed to the metal tile with ridge screws in increments of one wave.
The end plank should be attached to the end board of the roof. When installing the end board, it should be remembered that its height must be higher than the crate by the thickness of the metal tile. The end plate is fixed at the top and side with roofing screws.
The overlap between the end strips during installation is 7-10 cm.
General rules for the installation of metal tiles
- Before installing the batten, all wooden details must be treated with fire protection.
- All fasteners must be anti-corrosion coated.
- It is strictly forbidden to cut a metal tile with special scissors for metal or a jigsaw, an abrasive (grinder)!
- Cut edges should be treated with a special polymer composition from an aerosol can or touch up with a brush, bare metal must not be left!
