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Where can a compost pit be located? DIY compost pit. Choosing a place for construction

Any owner summer cottage is faced with the need to fertilize his garden. To do this, you can use chemical fertilizers, or natural ones. The optimal solution in this case it becomes the use of a compost pit. Another advantage of creating garden composter is a concern for the environment, since all organic waste can be turned into useful compost, rather than being taken to a landfill.

Where to set up a compost heap

First of all, you should take care of cleanliness drinking water, therefore, the well or well should be removed at a distance of about 25 m from the heap and preferably located higher (if there is a slope on the site).

Of course, the composter may smell unpleasant, so it is important to place it further from the kitchen, gazebo or veranda (yours and your neighbors), taking into account the most common wind direction. Ideally positioned compost pit closer to the vegetable garden or garden in the shade of trees, while providing easy access to it for garden wheelbarrow or an aisle with a trash can.

Compost can significantly improve the soil, regardless of its type. If it is clayey, it will become more crumbly, but if it is sandy, it will retain moisture better. But the price for it is quite high, and there will also be costs for delivering compost to the site, so people began to make compost pits themselves in order to fertilize the soil, but at the same time save money. Any home accumulates a large amount organic waste, so why throw them away if you can build a hole, and this waste will benefit the soil. In this article we will look at how to make a compost pit with your own hands at the dacha and how to operate it correctly.

• The size of the pit should be based on the approximate amount of garbage that can accumulate in a year, and then will rot for at least one year.
• The process of removing humus and mixing it should not be complicated, so the height of the walls has its limitations.
• The pit can be made either open or closed, one or two sections.

• The compost should not contain weeds or their seeds.
• The contents of the compost pit should be freely accessible for worms.
• It is necessary to equip a convenient approach so that there are no difficulties with the removal of humus.
• Iron can be added to the bottom, which will also benefit the compost over time.
• The smell from a closed compost pit should not leak outside.
• The compost pit should not be located in direct sun.

Compost pit technology

How to make a simple compost bin

The design of a compost pit depends on its future purpose; if it is equipped simply for the disposal of organic waste, then it can be made according to the simplest scheme.

• A hole is dug about 40-60 cm deep and 60-70 cm wide;
• a layer of dry grass and straw is placed at the bottom;
• After each waste disposal, a layer of grass is again laid on the garbage. This is necessary so that there are no flies and there is no unpleasant odor;
• This type of pit should be made somewhere in a remote part of the site, but not near the neighbors’ fences.

Do-it-yourself concreted compost pit

• This is a more labor-intensive construction. It consists of two equal compartments, one of which is intended for old compost, and the second is used for regular replenishment. This design has a lid that rises when necessary to collect fertilizer or throw away waste.
• To ensure high-quality compost, it is better not to use weeds for its preparation; they can leave behind harmful seeds in the soil.
• It is necessary to provide access to a closed composter for earthworms, otherwise the compost will take much longer to mature.
• In addition, it must be equipped in such a way that it looks like a decoration on the site and has a neat appearance. But ventilation must be present, so plant climbing plants not recommended with dense foliage.

Stages of work

The process of constructing such a compost pit is quite labor-intensive.

• Must be completely leveled and removed upper layer soil;
• then a hole is dug, about 60-80cm deep. The optimal length is 3m and width is 2m;
• then formwork is constructed and the walls are poured cement mortar or concrete, the thickness of which should be approximately ten centimeters.

Tip: for proper construction compost pit closed type it is necessary to prepare a concrete solution, following all the rules. It seems that there is nothing complicated about this, but in practice it often turns out the opposite. To avoid problems and not have to spend a lot of time correcting errors later, it is better to do everything right right away.

A concreted compost pit will have everything required properties for timely processing of compost if the proportions of all components from which the concrete for its base is made are accurately observed.

To create the solution, you will need:

• river sand,
• Gravel,
• Cement,
• Water.

Sequencing:

• First, you need to pour gravel into a twenty-liter bucket and shake it very well;
• After this, water is slowly added using a measuring cup. If this bucket contains ten liters of water, therefore, the gravel component is 50%, and the required ratio is two to one. This means that another 10 liters of river sand should be added to a twenty-liter bucket of gravel;

• such a solution should contain as little water as possible to avoid the appearance of bubbles in the future. If the composition has a high water content, then after it dries, a large number of voids are formed.

Advice: one more important point The main thing in preparing a mixture for a pit is that you need to mix the solution very thoroughly. This is probably even more important than precise observance of all proportions, so it is recommended to do this with a concrete mixer rather than manually.

A closed compost pit can have one section, but it is better to immediately make it with two sections. In the second case, it is more convenient to use, especially if it is decided not to use drugs to increase the rate of compost maturation.

If the decay process takes place naturally, then it will take about two years. Then it is very convenient to use each section separately. The first year you can use one, and when the second year begins, throw the waste into the second part. While the compost in one reaches the desired state, another is used.

Building a tall compost heap with your own hands

A wooden compost heap is easy to build even without experience in construction. At the same time, it can be made in such a way that it will not interfere with either the summer residents themselves or their neighbors.

• Stands should be installed at the corners of the pit. The base for them is made of pipes, and the part that is above the surface of the ground can be made of timber with a cross-section of 10 cm;
• One edge of each bar is sharpened to fit the size of the pipes. It is first recommended to soak all wooden parts of the structure in a special solution so that they do not succumb to the processes of decomposition and rotting;
• Next, the bars are driven into the pipe scraps and transverse boards are placed on their above-ground part, which will serve as the walls of the pit;

• It is better to fasten the boards using self-tapping screws or metal corners, which will provide more reliable grip;
• finished walls are covered with paint, preferably acrylic.

Some of the nuances in this work must be taken into account:

• the diameter of the pipes must match the size of the bars;
• the height of the walls is usually no more than a meter, this is due to the fact that large and tall structures ultimately turn out to be inconvenient to use, since it complicates the process of digging and extracting compost;
• the simplest version of a removable cover is an ordinary sheet of plywood that is attached to back wall hinged designs. The compost ripens best when the lid is closed, but you still need to open it sometimes to ventilate the fertilizer.

What is compostable and what should not be put in a pit?

So that the fertilizer can ripen in a timely manner and at the same time not lose its beneficial features for the soil, you should know exactly what is suitable for the compost pit.

You can put:

• raw vegetables, fruits, berries, cereals, straw, grass, hay, ash, foliage, pine needles, bark, branches, plant roots, sawdust, shredded paper, herbivorous animal manure.

You cannot put:

• bones, excrement of carnivorous domestic animals, potato and tomato tops, any greens after treatment with pesticides, weed seeds, any synthetic waste, as well as tops of infected plants.

Correct compost pit

For compost to form successfully, it needs certain conditions:

• moisture;
• warm;
• oxygen.

To create a greenhouse effect, still unripe compost must be watered (especially in hot and dry summers), and, if necessary, covered with film. A good reaction also requires oxygen; its access is ensured by loosening the waste with a pitchfork.

If it is not possible to arrange a pit, water it, and so on, then you can simply put organic waste in one place, where compost will form over time. This is, of course, not the most The best way from an aesthetic point of view, but it has a right to exist.

• In order for such a heap to be equal in functionality to a compost pit, it is necessary to add special preparations to it.
• You will also need to periodically cover it with dark material to speed up the compost maturation process. In a covered pit, the compost will be processed within 3-4 months, but if you keep it open, the process will take about six months to a year.
• You cannot put polyethylene at the base of the heap, which will block free access to water and oxygen. If the ground under the compost is covered with synthetic material, then the moisture from the pile will evaporate very quickly and will not be able to rise from the ground.
• When adding contents to a compost pile, it is recommended to alternate between manure, grass, waste and soil whenever possible. During extreme heat, you need to water the pile so that required quantity moisture and composting processes were not disrupted.
• It is convenient to make two piles side by side or one large one, but on two sides; this is a simplified version of a two-section box. When the compost is ready on one side and can be regularly spread on the beds, waste is thrown onto the other side of the pile.
• When the compost heap reaches about one meter in height, it is advisable to use fertilizers. To do this, make several deep holes and pour the solution into them. In the warm season, you can replace them with Californian worms.

Correct location of the compost pit

Before you set up a compost pit at your dacha, you need to choose the right site for it:

• The pit should be located at a distance of at least twenty-five meters from sources of drinking water (wells, boreholes, etc.);
• If the site is located on a slope, then the pit is equipped below the source of drinking water, this is necessary so that rotting waste through the soil cannot get into clean water;
• It is necessary to take into account the most frequent direction of the wind so as not to cause significant inconvenience to neighbors, especially if the pit is not covered with a lid and emits strong unpleasant odors;
• There should always be free access to the pit, which will ensure convenient removal of garbage using buckets or removal of humus using a wheelbarrow.

• The compost pit is made as far as possible from residential buildings. It should be in partial shade, since under the sun's rays all processes occurring in it will slow down.
• The area for the location of such a pit must be level.
• You should not allow water to stagnate in it - this will interfere with the access of oxygen.

Plastic compost bins

• This method is good for those who can allocate funds for its purchase and want the appearance of their site to be more presentable. It can be installed absolutely anywhere. But you will have to take into account the presence of an unpleasant odor, because you will need to regularly open the lid to ventilate the contents of the container.
• Constant access of oxygen to the compost is ensured by special holes, also necessary to prevent excess moisture from stagnating.
• Features of use plastic container For compost heap is that it is necessary to use special preparations to speed up the composting process. Earthworms can provide a substitute for drugs if they are specially placed in this container.

To save money and benefit the site, a compost pit is an excellent solution for fertilizing. It is very simple to set up and operate it; you just need to know a few rules. But at the same time, you will always have ready-made fertilizer for the soil on your site.

Photo of compost pit

If you have a decent land plot, from time to time it still has to be fertilized. So why not use high-quality compost for these purposes? No, we do not suggest you buy it with delivery to personal plot. This pleasure is not cheap. It's much easier to do it yourself useful fertilizer on your own land. All the conditions for this already exist; all that remains is to establish the system. You can combine business with pleasure: clear the area of unnecessary waste and produce selected compost. Let's find out how you can build a compost pit with your own hands and try to avoid mistakes.

What are the benefits of a compost bin?

On a plot of land, compost pits are used to store waste and surplus food. Subsequently, they decompose and turn into fertilizer quite High Quality. If you build a compost pit at your favorite dacha with your own hands at the beginning of the season, ready-made, incredibly useful fertilizer will be waiting for you in the fall. The average time for compost to “ripen” is three months. Of course, provided that the composter is made correctly and the pit is given due attention. Otherwise, the decomposition process may take 1-2 years.

Standards for the construction of compost pits

To build a good and reliable home, we need a thoughtful project. The requirements for a compost pit are not so severe, but they also exist. To speed up the ripening process of fertilizers, try to ensure a regular supply of heat, oxygen and moisture. Follow these rules:

• The pile should rise above the ground, and not be level with it or located below the soil. This is really important, because in this case the heap warms up much better, it is much more convenient to water and loosen it. We advise you to go deeper by 45-50 cm, but leave barriers of about a meter. The ideal DIY compost pit is 1.5 meters wide and 2 meters long.
• Keep in mind that if there is at least one source of water on the territory, it must be 25 meters or more from the compost pit. If the site has a certain slope, the pit is always built below the source. Otherwise, the water in it will no longer be drinkable.
• The compost pit at the dacha is located at some distance from the living space or gazebo. You don't want to greet the morning with unpleasant smell or barbecue in the yard, inhaling completely different “aromas”?
• It’s great if there is some kind of large tree on the site. For composting, it is always recommended to choose a place that is in partial shade. This will protect the pit from drying out quickly.
• You should choose the size of the pit yourself, taking into account the volumes of garbage that are in the dacha and are planned to be added in the next two years.
• Fencing for a compost pit using Finnish technology must have a height sufficient for convenient loosening and collection of compost.

Never make a slate bottom or cover it with rubber or metal. These materials prevent the soil from rising upward, but the compost will regularly dry out. The bottom is made of earth, the walls are covered with any of available materials.

Diagram of a ventilated compost bin

What is allowed to be thrown into a compost bin and what is prohibited?

Building a composter with your own hands is half the battle. To get truly high-quality fertilizer, you need to know what you can’t put in a hole and what you can.

To achieve maximum efficiency, you can safely deposit the following types of waste:

• Bark and leaves, chopped branches.
• Grass, dried weeds.
• Manure that has long been rotted, droppings from birds and other domestic animals.
• Any fruits and vegetables, as well as their peeling.
• Leftover tea.
• Small sawdust, shavings, straw.
• Ashes that remain after burning wood.

Any video about the construction and further use of such structures will confirm that ash and even paper in any form can be placed in a compost pit: cardboard, napkins. When laying fresh grass, especially if we're talking about If the layer is thick enough, the decomposition process lasts for a year. To speed it up, we recommend covering the grass with soil.

Compost filling scheme

Never pawn:

1. Bones and very thick branches. They rot long enough.
2. Inorganic products. In particular, these include rubber and polyethylene, metal and plastic, and synthetics.
3. Tomato tops, since they are often infected with late blight.
4. Plants that have previously been treated with chemicals.

Now you know for sure that you cannot put it in a compost pit under any pretext.

Popular creation methods

For a do-it-yourself compost pit, all manufacturing options can be divided into several types. Let's list them.

Regular waste pile

It is not difficult to prepare this version of the heap. All you have to do is choose the most suitable place to place the compost heap. Then gradually place the waste. If possible, they are laid in layers. For example, food scraps can be mixed with straw, green grass and manure.

As soon as the height reaches a meter, you will need to make 3-4 indentations and pour compost liquid inside. It significantly speeds up the process, so the first compost will be ready in three months.

The option described above is one of the most quick ways obtaining compost when minimum costs.

All you need to create a compost heap is a wheelbarrow and a shovel.

Classic pit

One way to make it is to dig a small, square-shaped hole in the ground. Cover your version of the pit with branches and hay at the bottom, as well as bark. Next, place food and vegetable waste. The temperature inside will not be very high, so it is recommended to immediately cover with film.

Please note that this option is the least successful of all. Firstly, such a pit warms up much worse. Secondly, the temperature in it is not always high. But it has a small area and is easy to arrange.

Classic compost pit

Building a compost box from wood

How to make a compost pit correctly so that the design is inexpensive and practical? To do this, you can use bars, sheets of metal with slate. The pit making process is as follows:

• You remove the top layer approximately 35-40 centimeters thick.
• Next, drive in pegs around the perimeter.
• A fence will need to be installed around the pit. You can make it from pallets, use wood blocks, boards and boards. It is also allowed to use other materials: flat and corrugated slate, polycarbonate, metal sheets.
• The height of the fence is no more than one meter. Otherwise, even with great growth, you will find it inconvenient to mix the compost.
• The structure is covered with plywood or film. Compost warms up well, so this design considered optimal in all areas.

Very original version execution is the construction of a wooden box. The lower edges of the structure do not reach the surface by 25-30 centimeters. Boards and other materials are also attached at a certain distance from the ground. Below, the compost matures several times faster, since it is laid much earlier. The finished fertilizer is taken from below, and the pile gradually falls down. The main advantage is that there is no need to loosen the pile, because you will always be able to get the right amount of compost.

Compost bin with sliding wall

Concreted pit

Perhaps the most reliable and durable option that will serve you for decades. The arrangement of the structure is as follows. After choosing a suitable building site (about 2 by 3 meters), you will need to select soil about 60-80 cm deep. Next, you build formwork 10 cm thick around the perimeter, mix the concrete solution and pour it into the formwork. As soon as the solution hardens, the formwork must be removed. We lay the waste in layers one after another, cover it on top wooden shields or film.

Despite the fact that this method is one of the most expensive, it certainly has no equal in terms of effectiveness. It is advisable to immediately divide the compost structure into two sections. In one of them you will put this season's waste, in the other the compost from last year will decompose.

A regular large barrel can also replace a compost pit. However, in in this case you will definitely need to use special drugs or introduce worms.

How to operate the pit?

In conclusion, here are some tips for those who already know how to make a compost pit with their own hands. It is equally important to use it wisely throughout the season.

1. Loosen the compost with a pitchfork from time to time. This will help oxygen penetrate inside, and waste will mix with each other.
2. Water the pile occasionally to maintain proper moisture levels.
3. Cover the contents with dark film to create a greenhouse effect. When the heap is covered, the compost in it can mature in even 3-4 months.
4. Plant earthworms in prepared compost. They perfectly loosen the heap and process it.

There are more than enough videos and articles on the Internet on the topic of building compost pits. They all agree that with proper construction, a compost pit can provide the owners of the site with very useful and almost free fertilizer.

A good harvest can only be harvested from crops grown on fertilized soil. All garden lovers are concerned about fertilizer and its composition. Compost is considered to be the most popular and environmentally friendly fertilizer.

Buying it and delivering it will cost a pretty penny. There is always enough organic waste on the site - these are weeds after weeding, excess mown grass, waste products, food debris, etc.

Everyone can make a compost pit with their own hands.

What waste can be used for compost?

Carbon-emitting

Nitrogen-emitting

• Fruits, berries and vegetables
• Tea leftover coffee
• Leftover food
• Egg shells
• Herbivore feces
• Human waste, provided that it does not contain anaerobic bacteria.
• Earth

Not suitable for compost

Potato and tomato tops take 5 years to decompose.

Preparing the pit

How to choose a place for a compost pit

In most cases, a compost pit is organized behind outbuildings or in a place where the site is not used for one reason or another.

You should also consider

• The compost pit gives off an unpleasant odor
• Free access to future fertilizer
• Flat surface, slight slope allowed
• Installed above ground level.
• At least 25 meters to the water source
• Shady place. Direct Sun rays inhibit the decay process.
• You cannot organize a compost heap close to trees. May die

Compost needs to be looked after. Water, loosen, for this reason best parameters buildings are 0.5 m deep and walls up to a meter high.

Peculiarities

The pit area is ideally 1.5 * 2 m, but this is not a standard, it all depends on the amount of waste over 2 years, this is the period required for the decomposition process. The compost heap is divided into two sections, in the first compartment lies finished product, the second contains waste.

The pit is equipped with a removable lid.

The small dimensions of the pit can lead to a poor rotting process and a low temperature of the compost, which will not be enough to kill spores and pathogenic microflora.

Attention!

The bottom of the structure is not covered with anything. Moisture must come from the ground. Otherwise everything will dry out.

Types of construction

1. The simplest pit without any special investments

Dig a pit half a meter deep and around a perimeter of 1.5 * 2 m. Waste is piled up, covered with film, and a load is placed on the film around the edges. After each laying, sprinkle the pile with grass.

Simple, but not practical. Care is complicated. Warming up is long, the cooking time of the product increases.

1. Pit with two sections

Partition materials: wood, slate, brick, plastic, metal, etc.
The pit size is 1.5*2 or 2*3 m. It is deepened from 0.5 m to 0.8 m.

Along the perimeter, in the corners, pillars are installed from any durable material that is not subject to rotting, on which the walls rest. With the calculation of the possible load on them. A partition is made in the center.

Do not forget about ventilation; oxygen is necessary for bacteria to work productively.

1. Single-section pile

This pit is constructed in the same way as a two-section one. The recess is 0.5 m, the height of the fence is up to a meter, the width and length are 1.5 * 2 m. Holes are made in one or two walls in order to get the finished product from the bottom.

1. Concrete structures

The concrete box is made to last for a very long time.

Instructions

• Dig a trench with a depth of 0.7-0.8 m of the required perimeter.
• Make supporting fasteners and walls
• Pour ready-made concrete mortar
• Let it harden
• Remove formwork
• Remove excess soil from the bottom
• You can cover it with a film or a wooden shield.

1. Plastic container

These structures are sold ready-made with ventilation and a lid.

The volume of products is from 400 to 1000 l. Price 2,000 – 10,000 t. Rub.

It shrinks like the others to a depth of 0.5 m.

Filling the hole

Before laying, dig up the bottom and remove weeds. This must be done for good moisture circulation and access of microorganisms.

Alternate layers: wet, then dry. The ratio is 3 to 1. 3 is brown waste that releases carbon, 1 is green waste that releases nitrogen.

To not allow large waste(everything breaks, crumbles, tears)

Moisten and cover with a lid.

• Don't forget to moisturize
• Periodically pierce, loosen
• If you cover with film, then black is better, it reduces processing time
• It's good to add earthworms
• Sometimes the compost is mixed.

Additives accelerating the process

• Horse manure (rotted)
• Chamomile, yarrow, valerian
• Activators for compost pits
• Dry droppings
• Mineral fertilizers

The material for the structure should be coated with an anti-corrosion coating if it is metal and the wood should be treated with impregnation, then painted acrylic paint in a couple of layers. This design will last much longer.

All types of pits

• Regular pile under film
• Slate compost pit
• Concrete structure
• Metal sheet compost box
• Compost pit made of wood (it is convenient to use pallets)
• Finished product made of plastic.

At proper organization and care, you will get the best environmentally pure fertilizer for the garden.

Before you start doing it at the dacha DIY compost pit, it’s worth thinking about, what exactly do we need it for?
The main functions of such a structure are the disposal of household organic waste, as well as the production of fertilizer for the vegetable garden, unless, of course, you intend to simply plant green manure on your site to fertilize the soil.

Rules for the arrangement and operation of a compost pit

When choosing a place where we would like to make a compost bin, we should consider several very important points:

1. The distance to the source of drinking water: well, borehole, stream, reservoir should be at least 25 - 30 m.
2. Also, if the area has a slope, the pit should be located below the well. Such precautions are necessary to prevent rotting waste from entering drinking water.
3. It would not hurt to take into account the wind rose, so as not to annoy the neighbors too much.

Additionally, I would like to clarify that in open sunny areas the contents of the pit can become very overheated, then the composting process stops, so it is advisable to shade the structure with trees. It is better if the compost pit is located somewhere in the corner of the site, adjacent to a blank wall or fence.

Let's also decide what can be thrown into the compost bin and what cannot.

Suitable for composting:

• Raw vegetables, fruits, berries, tea, cereals, coffee. Residues from cleaning as well.
• Hay, grass clippings, straw.
• Leaves.
• Branches, bark, roots of tree bushes, lightly crushed.
• Weeds.
• Wood ash.
• Needles.
• Napkins, cardboard, paper bags from natural paper, shredded.
• Unpainted wood waste.
• The manure of herbivores is second year.

Cannot be used for composting:

• Bones.
• Pet excrement. Helminth eggs may remain in them.
• Insects - pests and their eggs.
• Plants affected by diseases (tomato tops with late blight, pumpkin and cucumbers with powdery mildew etc.).
• Plants from areas treated with herbicides.
• Inorganic waste: any plastic, iron, synthetic fabrics, rubber.

It is advisable to either incinerate or dispose of non-compostable material. cesspool if it's excrement.

Organic matter is decomposed by microorganisms and earthworms. Therefore, it is not necessary to insulate all the walls of the pit that are below ground level. If you dig a hole 50 cm deep and fence it with impenetrable material, worms will not be able to get inside. They will have to be housed yourself. The rules, as you can see, are quite simple, and the benefits of following them are extremely great.

Construction of a compost pit

The main thing to consider when constructing a compost pit is the need to provide good moisture and looseness for a high-quality composting process. How to do it - of great importance does not have.

The humidity of the compost heap can be maintained by regular watering or covered with film on top to create a steam room effect.

In order for the structure of the contents of the compost bin to be loose, it is necessary either to crush it with a pitchfork from time to time, or to lay materials with different densities in layers.

The dimensions of the compost pit should be approximately the following: width - about 1 - 1.5 m, length - 2 m, maximum height 1.2 - 1.5 m, can be buried approximately 0.2 - 0.4 m in the ground.

Moreover, the design can be completely different and depends on the preferences of the owner.

Compost pit in two sections

If you do not use additional effective microorganisms, in addition to those present in the soil on the site, the reheating and composting of organic matter will take approximately 2 years. For ease of use, you can make the design two-section:
in one section - what we put away this year, in the other - what is composted from the previous year.

When there is ready compost in the second section, we will take it out and spread it on the beds where we want to improve saturation useful substances soil. The compost pit can be fenced on all sides like a box, but always with material that will ensure air penetration, for example, wooden picket fences nailed at a distance from each other. This way the contents will not rot and emit an unpleasant odor. Such a compost pit can be built with your own hands in about 1 - 2 days, depending on what fencing material is chosen.

Compost pit with free access at the bottom of the structure

This will be a good replacement for the first option - there is no need to break it into sections. The heap fencing begins at a level of 25 - 30 cm from the ground. Ready compost accumulates at the bottom, which, if necessary, can be easily picked out with a shovel and used in the garden. Convenient and less hassle. Each time compost is reached from below, the contents of the pile will sink, occupying empty space, thereby becoming saturated with oxygen. There is no need to specially transfer and loosen.

What should a proper compost pit look like?

If after everything you've read you're still wondering: how to make the right compost pit, then here’s your answer – don’t do it at all.

Firstly, dragging grass and other organic matter back and forth, from a plot to a heap, from a heap to a garden is unnecessary, pointless work.

Secondly, the carbon dioxide produced during the composting process, which is essential nutrition plants, mediocrely lost on a heap, unnerving you and your neighbors with its not very pleasant “amber”.

If you are not afraid of being considered an eccentric, lay out organic remains directly on the beds. There they will rot wonderfully and will not emit an unpleasant odor, as, for example, in a closed heap. Microorganisms will multiply on their own, worms will come too, they know their job - and here there is such abundance.
Use grass clippings as mulch. Even branches can be chopped and laid in paths between rows. Also take the peelings from fresh fruits and vegetables to the garden. So you:

• Retain moisture in the beds;
• You feed plants directly with carbon dioxide;
• Prevent the germination of weeds in the beds;
• Make compost directly where you need it.
• Prevents humus from being washed out.

And most importantly, there is less work!

As you can see, the DIY compost pit I proposed is not a difficult task at all. It will not require any additional effort or skills. Now all that remains is to dispose of what is not suitable for composting next to food. I think you already guessed that this is...