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Lightweight top extension to the house. Brick extension to a brick house: project, permission, construction. Extension to a wooden house from a bar

There are many options for assembling frame extensions to the house. The most economical and technologically simple option is the assembly of a frame structure. Best of all, such an extension will look next to a wooden house. What materials and tools are needed for self-installation of the extension and how is the installation technology of the structure carried out?

Technological features of extensions

The definition itself makes it clear that the basis of the structure is a supporting skeleton - a frame made from edged timber. Other parts of the building are also made of timber - the lower trim and corner posts. Regular racks and lintels are made from simple boards. Also, with the help of boards, future doors and window openings in the room are indicated. The thickness of the racks should be equal to the thickness of the heat-insulating layer, and based on the width of the insulation, the step between the racks is determined.

Let's give an example: if the house is located in the northern part of the country, then the thickness of the insulation should be at least 15 cm. It follows that the width of the lumber should be 150 mm by 100 or 150 mm. The step size must be kept within 60 cm, since the width of the insulation plate is 60 cm.

After assembling the frame structure, it is mounted. Do not forget that before this, hydro and vapor barrier is carried out. After insulation work, a rough sheathing of the structure is carried out using OSB or DSP sheets.

Video about the construction of a frame extension to the house

Frame extension to the house

Construction frame extension

Terrace extension to a wooden house

The need for an extension to the house arises in case of shortage usable area buildings or to increase the comfort of living. An extension to a brick house can serve as a gazebo or terrace, while at the same time assuming a mass convenient solutions. And a small insulated building in the cold season acts as a kind of vestibule that prevents the penetration of cold into the living quarters. Many are beginning to think about how to make an extension to a brick house with their own hands.

The design of a house adjoining building begins with determining its size and location. Usually the veranda adjoins front door at home, thus being to some extent its continuation. However, an extension can also be erected against a blank wall, acting as an independent separate building.

In order not to bother with calculations, you can rely on already known data - for a small family, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe object is approximately 12 square meters. m. Everything else depends on the configuration of the house itself and the imagination of its owner.

Before starting the marking, the land plot is prepared - it is cleaned of grass, possible debris, it is recommended to remove a small layer of soil over the entire area. The territory is marked for the foundation, which can be tape or columnar, pegs are driven in at the corners of the building under construction, between which a building cord is pulled.

Strip foundation

The trench for the strip foundation is carried out along the width of the bearing walls or 5-10 wider. To avoid seepage of concrete into the ground, formwork is installed inside the trench from unnecessary material, which is “buried” in the ground.

Above the pit, a formwork of even boards is also installed and leveled in a horizontal plane with a level or hydraulic level.

The height of the formwork above the ground depends on your idea and lies in the range of 10-30 cm. If it is decided to lay the first rows of red brick in the form of a plinth, then the height of the boards can be minimized or completely dispensed with the upper formwork.

Expert opinion

Sergey Yurievich

Construction of houses, outbuildings, terraces and verandas.

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A reinforcing belt is laid in the trench, which, ideally, is pre-knitted on the surface. Soft knitting wire is used, the reinforcement spacing is 15–25 cm.

After the frame is formed, the prepared structure is poured with concrete. For a reliable and strong base, the solution is prepared in the proportion: 1 part of cement, 3 parts of sand, 4 parts of crushed stone.

It is poured in layers, each next layer is rammed with a metal or wooden rod (rod).

The foundation is left alone for 1 week in the warm season, and from 3 to 6 weeks in the cold. If the work is carried out in the summer, then concrete base watered 2-3 times a day to provide for the appearance of cracks.

Pillar foundation for an extension to a brick house

A simple solution for a small building is to use a columnar foundation. It implies the installation of pillars in the ground in qualitylower frame, on which the main structure will be installed. As columns use:

• metal pipes;
• asbestos pipes;
• logs.

Regardless of the material chosen, markings for future bases are performed at the corners of the foundation and between them, if the area allows. The distance between adjacent supports is 1.5 to 2 m.

The technology of erecting a columnar foundation

1. Pillows of sand 10 cm high are poured into the prepared pits and carefully tamped.
2. Install corner posts in a strictly vertical position. To do this, you can use the usual building level. The distance between the lower part of the rod and the soil is covered with coarse material - rubble, broken bricks, large stones.
3. A cord is pulled between the pillars, along which the remaining (intermediate) pillars are fixed in a similar way.
4. The protruding rods are cut from above in a flat horizontal plane at a distance of 30-50 cm from the surface of the site. The operation is conveniently carried out using a hydraulic level or level. At the same time, on each pillar they make the so-called "zero mark", on the basis of which subsequent calculations and trimming are performed.
5. Pillars made of pipes are completely poured with concrete.

Construction of extension walls

The home master, at his discretion, selects wall material. It can be red or white brick, shell rock, expanded clay concrete or aerated concrete blocks. In one case or another, the technology of erection to the house and supporting structures is unchanged.

1. A waterproofing material (roofing material) is laid on the surface of the foundation.
2. Check the evenness of the surface. If necessary, it is leveled with a conventional cement-sand mortar.
3. Brick construction begins with the erection of the corner parts of the wall in one or two rows. In this case, the marking is done in such a way that the angles between the stretched cord are 90 ° everywhere. Corner blocks must be built perfectly, the evenness of the entire structure depends on them.
4. A cord is stretched between the corner "columns", along the line of which the intermediate parts of the wall structure are erected.
5. The extension being built is periodically “connected” with the main brick building. To do this, every 3-4 rows of masonry in the walls of the house, two holes are drilled with a perforator according to the level of the lined row. The diameter of the holes is selected in such a way that 30–50 cm metal rods (reinforcement or wire rod) can be driven into it with force. Thus, the walls of the veranda being built are combined with the wall of a residential building.
6. When laying the rows, you should periodically check their horizontality so that the upper final row is laid out strictly parallel to the horizon line.

Openings for windows and doors are made using a level, the upper lintel is made using a horizontally laid or steel square profile.

How to make an extension roof with your own hands

Shed roof on conventional rafters is the easiest installation option. In this case, the roofing material can be:

• slate;
• polypropylene sheets;
• double-glazed windows;
• steel sheets with sun-repellent coated.

The installation of the supporting frame is performed as follows:

1. First, the necessary calculations and drawings are performed, which determine the angle of inclination of the roof (5-10 °), the location of the rafters.
2. The timber prepared and cut to size is treated with an antiseptic and waterproofing agents.
3. basis wooden frame attached to the top row of the extension. The rafter beam prepared for these purposes is marked out every 60–90 cm and fixed with anchors so that they enter the load-bearing wall by at least 50 cm. Roof truss beams are placed and fixed parallel to each other on the base every meter under the building cord . The wooden frame crate is ready.
4. The top layer of bituminous slate or other material is attached to a wooden crate according to the instructions issued by the hardware store. For slate, special slate nails with rubber seals are used to prevent moisture from entering under the roof.

transparent roof

The polycarbonate roof has some features:

1. Sheet material is attached to profiles purchased in the store: end, corner, P - and H-shaped.
2. For fastening the canvases, galvanized self-tapping screws 40–50 cm are used, equipped with thermal washers or conventional rubber seals.
3. Sheets are cut in such a way that they are joined in the middle of the rafters with an overlap of 10-15 mm. The place of such an overlap at the end of the work is hidden under a protective bar.
4. The outer edges of polycarbonate are equipped with H-profiles.
5. Sealing of joints and ends is carried out by means of finely porous flexible tapes.

The arrangement of the roof is carried out in such a way that the adjacent parts of the coating fit snugly against the wall of the house or even go under its roof. This is the only way to prevent drafts and moisture from entering the room. If desired, the roof can be made flat, pitched, arched, domed.

Roof insulation

If the extension to the brick house will be actively used in the cold season, it is recommended to insulate the roof. Sheets are used as heat insulating materials. mineral wool, which are attached between the boards of the crate (lags). Modern technologies offer a new tool - a sprayed polyurethane insulation, a 5-cm layer of which will reliably protect the room from heat loss through the roof.

Completion of work

At the end of the main work, the structure is inspected for the presence of possible unfilled spaces between the roof and walls, which are additionally sealed with mineral wool, mortar.

20 cm to the specified width around the entire perimeter of the veranda, install a wooden formwork 7–10 cm high with a slight slope from the wall along the outer edge of the prepared site.

To prevent peeling concrete pad from the extension, it is recommended to "link" it with the main structure is a reinforcing single-layer cage. To do this, holes are drilled from the bottom of the building according to the size of the reinforcement in increments of 20-25 cm, where metal rods of a given length are hammered. The finished structure is poured concrete mortar and let it “settle” for 3-5 days.

A wooden extension to a house is often built to expand the space in a residential building, and requires a relatively small financial outlay. This article is for those who are going to build a wooden extension to a brick house with their own hands, while minimizing financial costs.

Let's talk about the sequence of work on the installation of an extension made of wood, about the choice of high-quality material, about the pitfalls that may await you, as well as the advantages and disadvantages of this type of building.

Reassignment of a wooden extension

The extension to the house, which we will talk about in this article, may be different.

It can be turned into an excellent or dining room, also, the room is well suited for a living room, a place for family gatherings and relaxing with family or friends.

Operating options may be different, so the owners of each individual house can use the extension at their discretion

Types of extensions to a wooden house

They are different, and each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages.

• Side extension with common or separate roof.
• Attachment in the form of .
• Attached as a second floor.

Side annex with common or separate roof

It is used most often, since it requires little cash outlay. For its construction, you only need to lengthen the roof, combining it with the annex.

With this type, a private house is simply completed a little. It is important to take into account one nuance - in any case, the foundation must be poured thoroughly, even if a tree is used to build an extension.

It is also important to maintain proportions when erecting wooden annex to a brick house, since massive-looking structures do not fit into the overall picture of the building.

Usually, the common roof option is suitable for those homeowners who do not have the opportunity to build a common roof on their own.

attic view

This type of do-it-yourself wooden extension to a brick house is a modern type of structure that allows you to save the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe plot of a private house, creates a unique appearance of housing, and also harmoniously fits into the environment.

Do-it-yourself extension to the house

Planning

When planning a wooden extension to a brick house with your own hands, you should evaluate the possibilities of the foundation. After all, not every foundation, pre-made for a particular house, is able to withstand the weight of an additional structure.

In any case, before starting work, consult with specialists who can help in the calculations and give advice on strengthening the foundation on their own.

Material selection

For the construction of a wooden annex to a brick house with their own hands, most often they use a beam, a frame base, or. There are other types of materials, but they are not as in demand as those mentioned earlier.

The simplest, most reliable and inexpensive material is any type of timber: glued, planed, rounded. Work on installing an extension to a brick house from a bar can be completed in the shortest possible time.

Advantages of an extension to a wooden house

legalization

A wooden extension to a brick house must be legalized in advance without fail.

Failure to comply with this obligation threatens with problems in the form of sanctions imposed by regulatory authorities. It is from this moment that it is necessary to begin the process of installing a wooden outbuilding to a brick house, so as not to go to court later.

First, you need to take permission from the local authorities to build an extension, which will indicate all the nuances and recommendations for the construction of the structure.

Your next step will be a visit to an organization that deals with design. There, experts will help to make the necessary project, taking into account requests for the material of the extension and its design.

In addition, advice will be given on conducting electricity and sanitation in the annex (if these communications are planned there).

At the final stage of walking through various regulatory authorities, contact the local department of architecture and construction, and coordinate the extension project there.

There are cases when, after the completion of work, a commission for the inspection of structures in the form of supervisory authorities that monitor compliance with construction standards may descend.

The extension project can be approved within two months.

Stages of building a wooden extension to the house

Selection of materials for construction. Their choice depends on the financial capabilities of the owners of the house, taste preferences, wood quality, their size and color palette.

To prevent drafts, it is necessary to install a door on the front side of the extension, not opposite the front door to the house.

The design of a wooden extension to a brick house with your own hands can be done differently, based on your own preferences and tastes.

As good examples we can offer the following:

• Wooden structures with supporting elements in harmony with the overall tone of the house in the form of glass inserts.
• Creation of platforms to expand the territory of recreation, games, barbecues.
• Clear or frosted glass inserts ( sliding doors etc.)
• Glass roof.

The most popular way to connect a wooden extension to a brick house is to insert a wooden structure into the base of a brick facade. This is done by chasing the wall and partial planting. wooden structure. Further, the structures are connected with mounting brackets.

Do-it-yourself extension to the house is a common way to increase living space. In truth, we have it as a legacy of the times when the attitude of the state to individual housing construction was expressed by the principle "Saving the drowning is the work of the drowning themselves." Then in the areas of private development came across shacks, from the sight of which the sworn surrealists had nightmares.

However, the expansion of housing with extensions has always been everywhere and remains relevant today as a means of avoiding excessive credit bondage on long years. There are ways, but they cannot afford a large family nest - construction costs relative to the size of the building grow according to a power law. However, at first to build a house of a minimum size, if only it was possible to live, and then, as needed, to make an extension to the house, and more, and more, it is quite possible for your budget. Moreover, a house overgrown with correctly completed extensions can be more convenient, more beautiful and better integrated into the environment than the original one, see fig.:

Please note that the construction of the extension is organizationally and technically more complicated than the main building. Why? Because the annex affects him different ways, see below. In conditions when private housing is fully legalized and insured, its accident rate caused by an extension is unacceptable. That's why the cost of a square turnkey extension will be significantly more expensive than a new building, and the independent developer will face specific problems. About what, from which side to approach their solution, where to look for the optimum and how to build an extension correctly, and this article was written.

Organizational questions

Self-builders, of course, are primarily interested in - is it really possible to legalize an extension-squatter after the fact? If a residential building is already a legalized squatter building, then it is unrealistic. Self-construction is legalized according to the results of the operation of the building. Roughly speaking - is it worth it? Yes, and shish with him, let him stand further. But shish with him on shish with him already gives something like “yes, well, he’s on ...”, because. no reference initial parameters to determine further fate buildings. Samostroy is legalized once and for all, and the negative consequences of the extension may affect 10 years or more. That is, the owner, a quarrelsome and quarrelsome, has a formal reason for counterclaims: yeah, they legalized it wrong! Well, compensate! Which is also absolutely unrealistic, but you can drink blood and shake your nerves and people excitedly.

Note: for “complete self-construction” of a house with an extension, the only legalization option, and then one day, is to delay the legalization of the main building until the extension is ready, and then legalize everything together.

As for old housing, typical or built according to an approved project, the possibility of legalizing an unauthorized extension to it depends on its type and design, see below. There are no extensions legalized automatically. Therefore, no matter how it was built an old house, planning to attach, be prepared to follow the trail. epic:

• Geological surveys at the construction site and revision of the main structure;
• Obtaining permission from the owner of the land (if the plot under the house is rented);
• Obtaining permission from neighbors for construction;
• Designing an extension, independent or custom-made by specialists;
• Approval of the project by a licensed construction organization, firefighters, sanitation, electricians, public utilities. Most often combined with pp. 1 and 4 by order from a licensed construction company, it's cheaper and faster;
• Obtaining a building permit from the local municipality - at the architectural bureau, at the meeting of the village / village council. It is also possible to combine with paragraphs. 1, 4 and 5. This is called a turnkey project or a tie-in project;
• Construction;
• Acceptance of the building by representatives of the authority that issued the permit;
• Renewal of contracts with public utilities for increased living space;
• Re-registration of housing of increased living space in the cadastre and in the tax.

Let's hope that the further material of the article will help you understand the proposed projects, or even, if you have already built yourself and know how to use construction calculation programs, develop an extension project on your own. Specialists in licensed firms know their business: they will see that it is correctly drawn up, ask a couple of questions, and - wave.

Geology

Extension projects are developed based on the results of structural geology surveys and revisions of the existing building, even if the house is a typical one. On-site surveys are not cheap, but the extension will be reliable and will not reduce the reliability of the house if and only if, unlike the new building, the soil under it is homogeneous and its basic properties are as close as possible to those under the house. In order to decide whether it is possible to attach at all in a given place, soil samples are taken in advance with a garden drill from the same depth within 1-1.5 m in an envelope - in the corners and in the center. Sampling time is a really warm spring when the ground dries up above; in middle latitudes - the beginning of May. There should be no rain for at least 3-4 days before sampling. Wells before selection are thoroughly cleaned from the soil crumbled from above. Each sample is immediately poured into glass jar with tight-fitting lid; plastic bags are not good!

First, we evaluate the heaving, subsidence and bearing properties of the soil by visual inspection of the samples; under the house and the annex, they must match up to the class. For example, a house on a dry, non-rocky and slightly subsiding sandy loam with a bearing capacity of less than normal 1.7 kgf / sq. see A 2 m from the wall, i.e. under the proposed extension - also non-porous, but completely non-sagging cartilage or gravel with a bearing capacity obviously greater than normal. You can't attach. Or, let's say, instead of cartilage, dry silty sand, non-porous, but more subsidence and weakly bearing; The result is the same.

Note: attach to the house with your own hands, if the bearing capacity of the soil on the site is less than 1.7 kgf / sq. cm, as well as on soils of moderately, strongly and excessively heaving, subsidence and / or excessively watered by unauthorized construction without a project, it is categorically not recommended. At best, no one will ever legitimize such an extension in an honest way. At worst, irreparably damage the old housing.

If there are no visible differences in the samples that prevent construction, we evaluate the homogeneity of the basic properties of the soil, including its water content and plasticity, comprehensively, by relative humidity. For this:

1. We weigh an enameled steel vessel and record its weight Vp.
2. We pour a part of the sample into the dishes, immediately weigh it, record the initial gross weight Vn.
3. We heat the container with the sample over low heat until the soil crumbles into dust, i.e. will not dry completely.
4. We also immediately weigh the dishes with the sample, record the final gross weight Vk.
5. We calculate the initial and final weight of the net sample Рн = Вн – Вп; Pk \u003d Vk - Vp.
6. We calculate the relative humidity of the sample as H \u003d 1 - (Rc / Rn).

For example, the initial net weight of the sample is 440 g, and the final one is 365 g. Its relative humidity will be 1 - (365/440) = 1 - 0.83 = 0.17 or 17%. The H values ​​for all samples must match to within 10 percentage points (percentage of percent) if self-construction is assumed, or up to 20 percentage points if the project is developed by specialists and approved as expected. Let's say all samples gave moisture values ​​of 17%, 18.7%, 16%, 16.5% and 19%. Deviation is counted from least value and its allowable value will be 1.6% for self-construction, and 3.2% for construction under the project. IN this case self-building is impossible, you need to order geology and develop a project.

Technical problems

The first thing to know here is there are no prefabricated outbuildings. The foundation of even the lightest extension must stand for at least a year before continuing construction, and the foundation of a massive residential extension - from 2 years, depending on the results of measurements of its horizontalness, see below. In general, an extension to a private house can affect its condition according to the following. factors:

• Soil mechanics - the old house on the foundation has already settled, and the extension is yet to be.
• Structural mechanics - an extension adjacent to the house or attached to it, will transfer to the structure of the existing building both loads during the settlement of the extension, and operational weight, wind and snow. The design of the extension (see below) must be coordinated in terms of structural mechanics not only with the expected loads, but also with the design of the main building.
• Thermal engineering - an extension at any stage of its construction should not violate the existing heat balance under the existing building.
• Technological - the details of the extension will have to be attached to the structure of the main building. Perhaps also make openings in it load-bearing walls. Both should not weaken the main structure.

Special mention should be made of heat engineering. A properly built house does not sway from year to year in accordance with seasonal ground movements, even on an unburied foundation. Under it, a warm pit is formed - an area where the temperature of the soil does not fall below zero. The blind area around the house expands the warm pit to the sides, which is useful in all cases and makes it much easier to pair the extension with the house. The extension, in turn, so that the house does not lose stability, should smoothly and gradually, without hesitation back and forth, pull the “tongue” of the warm pit under itself. This track is achieved. way:

1. The foundation of the extension is laid in the spring with the advent of real heat.
2. If the foundation of the extension is columnar or piled (see below), then immediately after laying it, a basement is built around the perimeter of the extension; it can be temporary, from fragments of slate, etc.
3. Also, along the perimeter of the extension, it is very, very desirable to immediately make a blind area on a sand and gravel cushion.
4. The foundation is covered with expanded clay flush with the plinth.
5. Above the foundation covered with insulation, a temporary shelter is constructed from precipitation with gentle slopes, for example. from a film on poles.
6. Construction continues no earlier than a year after laying the foundation.

Note: the indicated difficulties in geology and the design of the extension do not apply to country houses, because they are legally uninhabited. The rule still applies here - the problems of the developer are the problems of the developer. However, if dacha buildings are subject to a real estate tax, they will have to be converted into residential buildings. Consequence - suddenly you are going to move to live from the city to the country forever, now is the time to fully equip the country house for housing, incl. and outbuildings. Then the authorities will not go anywhere, they will have to legalize everything that is set up as it is, as long as it stands.

About materials

One of the factors precluding the legalization of any unauthorized construction is the non-compliance of the materials used with the requirements of SNiP. In the safety rules in any industry, the principle of the presumption of innocence does not apply, and later it is impossible to prove that you are not a camel, and you are not a camel. Therefore, take the materials for the extension from certified sellers and, in addition to sales receipt, ask for a copy of the manufacturer's certificate for the material. An exception is a used red brick, if it was inspected and certified by a specialist in the project organization in the bill of materials for the project.

Types of extensions

Options for the execution of extensions to the house are given in Fig: non-residential (unheated and not insulated) open, non-residential closed, residential light and residential massive. Only electricity can be supplied to non-residential outbuildings from communications through a separate machine and RCD (residual current device). Only electricity is also supplied to a light residential extension, but it is already possible from the general house network. Heating - local stove or electric, for example, underfloor heating; in this case, you need a separate machine and RCD for heating. Any communications are brought into the massive residential extension without additional restrictions.

Communication with home

The next important factor in the classification of extensions is the degree of their connection with the main structure. According to the connectivity, the extensions are divided into:

• Remote - separated from the house at a distance of at least 3 deepenings deeper than the entire foundation, incl. pile. If, for example, the house is on a tape buried by 1.6 m, and the bath next to it is on piles driven in by 2.2 m, then it should be at least 6.6 m away from the house.
• Adjacent - do not meet the criterion of remoteness, but do not have a complete mechanical connection with the house, i.e. the foundation of the extension is separate, the walls are on it from all sides, incl. and facing the house. Most often, for the sake of saving land, materials and work, they are built close to the house and under a common roof. Self-building with subsequent legalization is possible if the foundation of the extension is selected and laid correctly, see above and below. All types of outbuildings, except for massive residential ones, can be carried out by the adjoining ones.
• Connected - having at least one common load-bearing wall and / or a common branch / section of the foundation tape with the house. massive warm extension to the house is only connected to the main building. The legalization of squatting is unlikely; in fact it is a matter of your relationship with the local authorities and their attitude towards you.

Residential extensions to houses are most often built adjacent, and the missing communications are brought in after acceptance - who will check if the house is standing and people live in it? The tax and public utilities will still count their own for living space. The strip foundation of the adjacent extension is made with a deformation gap of 6-12 mm between it and the foundation of the house, filled with roofing material, glass rubit and other insulators, but this is not optimal in this case. A gap of 30 mm between the adjacent walls of the house and the extension is caulked with pre-compressed sealing tape (PSUL) and covered with decorative overlays along the contour from the outside. It turns out it seems to be cheap and cheerful, especially if the extension is structurally light (see below), but there are no eternal sealants. In the conditions of the central zone of the Russian Federation, after 10-12 years, dampness begins to accumulate in the gap between the adjacent walls, and it becomes the focus of the destruction of the whole house. Therefore, builders specializing in extensions give a 5-year guarantee for adjacent ones, as they say, right off the bat. Please note if you order a turnkey extension.

Note: PSUL must be used immediately, because, unpacked, it begins to swell irreversibly.

About remote extensions

The remote extension completely eliminates the specific organizational and technical difficulties of the extension, because. according to all laws and regulations, it is a separate structure. The foundation of the remote extension can be any, incl. not buried insulated, for example. , and the structure on it is prefabricated of any type. The remote extension is connected to the house by a covered insulated gallery on a columnar base or hanging on beams. Both are not considered a mechanical connection with the house.

A remote extension is especially beneficial if you need to attach a kitchen. Increased heat loss from the room in this case is insignificant, but the living rooms are reliably isolated from the kitchen fumes and high humidity. And most importantly, in private housing with a kitchen, they often block the furnace / boiler room or simply put / hang a heating boiler in the kitchen. Its removal from residential premises greatly reduces the possible dangers from autonomous heating; the probability of burning out during the furnace solid fuel practically vanishes. In addition, the location of residential buildings and local sewage facilities on the site is facilitated in accordance with sanitary standards.

Note: in the West and in countries gravitating towards it, many are now fond of remote outbuildings with panoramic windows, even if there is plenty of space in the old house, see Fig.:

In such an aquarium, by default, they transfer a toilet, a bathroom, matrimonial bedroom; happens, and children's. Hanging curtains is considered a disregard for Euro-liberal values ​​and a penchant for totalitarianism, extremism, terrorism, separatism, and so on. In psychiatry, the thought pattern that gives rise to this tendency is called exhibitionism and is a symptom of lush bouquet various mental disorders.

Foundations

The influence of the extension on the main structure is most affected through the foundation, so its selection and laying in the ground should be given Special attention. For adjoining outbuildings or wood or foam blocks optimal choice or . Adjacent extensions are not built of brick or monolithic. Both options will avoid direct contact of the base of the extension with the foundation of the house and greatly reduce the likelihood of moisture accumulation in the gap between the walls. The foundation grillage is made of timber from 200x200 for wooden buildings or welded steel from an I-beam or a channel with an upper shelf not narrower than the thickness of the wall.

The columnar foundation for the extension is suitable for non-heaving or slightly heaving, not subsiding and not excessively watered normally bearing soils. On all other soils, you need to choose a foundation on screw piles, and God forbid you to think about driven, pressed and undermined piles - in this case, a violation of the stability of the main structure is guaranteed! The installation step of pillars / piles is typical, 1.2-1.7 m; foundation design is also typical.

Under "capital"

Under a massive residential extension, in most cases, you need a strip foundation of normal depth (at least 0.6 m below the standard freezing depth), securely connected to the base of the building. And again, God forbid you to match the foundations as shown on the left in the figure! This is permissible only on non-freezing dense non-subsidence soils!

In the conditions of the Russian Federation, the conjugation of the foundations of the house and the extension must be done with a tooth and anchor ties (in the center in the figure); the capacity of the anti-rock cushion under the foundation of the extension is 15 cm of gravel and 15 cm of sand. A trench for the foundation is needed with a trapezoidal profile with anti-heap backfilling with a sand and gravel mixture, as for a brick foundation for an extension of a half-timbered structure (see below). The tooth is reinforced in 2 levels steel reinforcement 14-16 mm.

The anchors connecting the foundations are made from the same reinforcement. The installation step is 30-40 cm horizontally and vertically. The laying of anchors in both foundations is 25-30 cm. Holes are drilled under the anchors in the old foundation, into which the anchors are immured. Anchors are connected with the reinforcing cage of the foundation of the extension by wire tying, in no case by welding! It is necessary to fill the foundation in such a way that before the outside temperature drops to +15 degrees and below, it gains at least 75% strength.

The foundation of the extension with a tooth is maintained until the continuation of construction from 2 years. In the first year, immediately after the tape has gained strength, its deviation from horizontal is measured in mm / m. The measurements are repeated after one year. The foundation is stable - we finally level it to the horizon and build further. No, we are waiting for another year. I didn’t “settle down” in 4 years - alas, the geology went wrong, the soil is too fluid. We urgently need to take measures to strengthen it, until the old house is led.

On non-rocky, well-bearing soils, it is permissible to build an adjacent or massive residential extension of foam / gas blocks on a shallow strip foundation(MZLF) or on a non-buried tape with an initial excess of the extension foundation. To calculate the necessary excess of the new tape, you need to know the coefficients of soil subsidence at the construction site, the available sand and gravel of the foundation cushion under the weight of the tape. General directories in this case are not help, because. the coefficients of subsidence of materials from different quarries may differ by a value that is too large for an attached foundation.

A small tape under the extension is first poured with a gap between it and the old foundation. At the ends of the reinforcement of the tape and anchors in the old foundation, elastic loops are bent (on the right in the figure) and welded. A year later, it is checked whether the foundation has stabilized (see above). If yes, the initial gap is filled, and after the concrete plug has gained strength, you can build further.

Structures and materials

Here you need to know, firstly, that it is possible to build extensions from SIP only on non-sagging, non-rocky soils of high bearing capacity. A SIP structure is a very rigid box. Settling faster than the old house, it will inevitably tear itself away from it.

Secondly, it is possible to make extensions from foam / gas blocks, but with finishing, external and internal, you will have to wait a year or two. This rule does not have a retroactive effect: it is impossible to mechanically attach any residential extensions to foam concrete houses; you can only attach adjacent ones. The fact is that the foam / aerated concrete in the extension during the draft will give many small non-through cracks. They are not dangerous and will not reduce structural strength, but they will have to be repaired before finishing. So that the foam / gas-block structure is not saturated with moisture during the exposure time, the extension box will need to be wrapped with a film.

Thirdly, in our time, a brick for an extension is not a suitable material; generally unsuitable for self-building. A heavy massive brick extension will certainly require strengthening the structure of the main house, except that it is an old merchant's house with meter-long walls. There are calculators on the Internet brick outbuildings; an example is given in fig. As you can see, in addition to strengthening the wall, which is already difficult, expensive and time-consuming, we also need a load-bearing partition in a certain place so that the settling extension does not tear the house in half. And what if the partition fell on the bedroom, or, worse, the kitchen or toilet?

Finally, the main structural material extensions should not be stronger than that of the old house. Recommendations to build from the same material as the house are incorrect. If something went wrong and the extension sits more than allowed, it is better to disconnect it and let it collapse than risk the main housing.

To the cottage

Annex to country house for the above reasons, it can be made as light as possible, the so-called. console-support. A diagram of a light extension of this type is given in Fig. Its interface with the roof (see below) is absent, and the base is taken far from the house, and there is nothing to be afraid of its influence on the foundation. At the same time, the supports take a significant part of the load from the consoles, so this extension can even be attached to the wall. frame house(any others - unacceptable) through backing boards from 150x40. The main thing is that the attachment points fall on the vertical edges of the frame. If the location of the frame elements is known, then it is possible and even better to fasten through the power (working) skin; it is enough to remove the exterior trim and insulation. The material of the supporting pillars is timber from 150x50; the rest is a board 150x40. Permissible extension of the roof consoles is 2.5 m for a frame house, 3.5 m for a timber house and 4.5 m for a brick house.

The corsol-supporting extension to the house can be the basis for a garage, terrace (veranda without floor), greenhouse, etc. Cantilever-supporting, you can attach a veranda and even a "conditionally residential" (insulated) room. The floor in this case is made completely floating on a columnar base, i.e. the frame made of timber, on which the logs rest, is not connected either with the house or with the extension; a gap along the contour of 20-30 mm is covered with a plinth. Thus, 3 independent bases are obtained: the foundation of the house, a “checkerboard” of columns for the floor, and poles (or tape) under the console supports.

Fachwerk

Many people make light extensions to houses as frame ones due to the elasticity of this structure and its negligible influence on the main structure. However, if the extension affects the house, then it affects it too. Elastic limit frame structures with working sheathing is not unlimited and drops sharply with an increase in the removal of the supporting elements of the frame extension. If it is possible to attach a porch to the house without problems, then the probability of destruction from settlement of an extension more than 3 m wide is high.

The best option for a wooden extension to any house would be half-timbered. The half-timbered technology was originally extension: it was born in medieval cities, constrained by defensive walls. There, each house was an extension to the neighboring ones. The difference between the fachwerk technology and the frame one is that there is no working sheathing, all the loads are taken over by the timber frame. Sheathing, external and internal, can be any.

An extension to a wooden half-timbered house made of timber from 200x200 on a strip foundation with a tooth (top left in the figure) practically does not additionally load the main structure. Its full interface with the house, sheathing and final finishing produced a year or two after the construction of the frame with wood screws with a diameter of 8-12 mm in increments of 450-600 mm. Sealing along the interface contour - PSUL. A half-timbered extension to a stone house can be 2-story without jibs for panoramic glazing, top right. Fastening to the main structure - M8-M10 bolts in collet anchors with a step of 4 rows of masonry; laying anchors in the wall - 300 mm. The seal is the same.

Half-timbered technology is especially good if you need to attach a bathroom or bath to the house: many budget developers at first manage with a miniature combined bathroom or a corner shower in the kitchen. Well, if the soul is yearning to soak in the bath or take a steam bath to your heart's content, then a bar impregnated with a water repellent in addition to biocide and flame retardant is on sale. A simple unimpregnated timber can be made moisture resistant by impregnating with mining or, twice, with a water-polymer emulsion. In this case, sheathing and insulation are made from any suitable materials, without caring about its structural strength.

An example of the construction of a half-timbered frame of an extension to the house is given at the bottom left in fig. In the same place in the center and on the right - constructions key nodes 2-storey fachwerk. An unpleasant feature of the half-timbered technology for lovers of "quick building" is that it is impossible to connect the frame elements with steel fasteners, as in a frame house with a working sheathing. At the crosshairs, the bars cut into half a tree, and at the ends they are connected into a spike, paw or swallow tail. Each connection is fixed with a dowel - a through round stud made of hard, small-layer wood with a diameter of approx. 30 mm.

Fachwerk foundations

Half-timbered buildings also need a special foundation: columnar and pile structures take loads too unevenly for half-timbered buildings, and the concrete tape is too rigid for it. The foundation for the half-timbered extension is laid brick or rubble (see the figure on the right). The latter is better: well-annealed red brick in moist acidic or alkaline soil begins to collapse within 40-50 years, although it lasts for centuries in neutral, not waterlogged soil, dry-molded silicate or face bricks are generally unsuitable for underground structures. The shelf life of a rubble foundation made of granite, diorite, gabbro and other dense heavy rocks of stone is practically unlimited.

Anchor bolts M12-M16 are immured into the foundation for the fachwerk for fixing the grillage from a bar from 200x200. The step of foundation anchors is 400-600 mm. Waterproofing grillage - 2-4 layers of roofing material or glass rubit. The lower trim of the half-timbered frame itself is attached to the grillage with dowels (you can use wood screws). After its installation, the frame is assembled on the wall of the house, and then the remaining elements are mounted. Thus, it is possible to repair a half-timbered frame on an excessively sagging foundation by knocking out wedges, etc. This is a unique opportunity for half-timbered technology, although it is still necessary to withstand the foundation for a year before continuing construction.

Fachwerk and shields

Fachwerk technology is laborious and requires a lot expensive material. If a one-story extension to a house from a bar is supposed, incl. warm residential, it is possible to get by with a simplified frame-panel technology, which was born at the same time. In this case, the timber frame is built from the top and bottom strapping with corner posts; spans are filled with boards on a plank frame, which are attached to the main frame with wood screws, and are fastened together with steel plates from 80x40x4.

The design of the shield frame of the combined frame extension from boards from 120x40 is given in fig. on right. The height of the sections can be increased up to 900-100 mm according to the height of the ceiling; if it is higher than 3 m, the number of sections increases. Window and door sections are made without jibs; they should not adjoin each other closely and to the corners, i.e. on both sides of the frame with an opening there should be frames with jibs. If the inner lining is sheet sufficiently strong, rigid and elastic (plywood from 16 mm, OSB), then internal jibs (shown by filling in the figure) can be dispensed with.

Roof connection

Own weight and climatic loads on the roof tend to flatten it and distribute it to the sides, for which purpose cross braces are provided in roof trusses - crossbars. The asymmetry of vertical loads caused by the presence of an extension on the side disrupts the entire operation of the roof and can lead to its accident rate. The scheme of pairing the roofs of a house and an extension, which is common in Runet (top left in the figure), not only requires excess material, but also does not eliminate the asymmetry of the load on the old roof. Moreover, excess wind loads are transferred to the most vulnerable part existing roof- her ridge knot. It is also unacceptable for the sake of pairing with an extension to distort the old roof structure(upper right), even if the house has a Siberian attic that reinforces the roof.

The correct design of the interface between the roofs of the house and the side extension is given at the bottom left in fig. The highlight here is in the beveled snow supports: from an additional load of any kind, they kind of push the wings of the old roof inward, preventing them from spreading. Further, due to the rigidity of the force triangles formed (filled in red), a significant part of the additional loads is transferred to the Mauerlat (rafter) of the extension, which can be calculated in advance for them, and the excess loads on the Mauerlat of the old roof do not exceed the permissible value.

Note: if the extension is made of foam / aerated concrete that does not hold mortgages well, then the Mauerlat of the extension must be made in accordance with all the rules for building houses from foam concrete, and the Mauerlat anchors must be laid into the wall for 3-4 rows of masonry.

About roofing

When building a side extension to the house, the old roofing must be dismantled (bottom right in the figure above) and the roof must be re-roofed. Match the roofs of the house and extensions as shown in fig. right, you can't. Golden Rule roofing work: the overlying flooring elements must overlap the underlying ones so that water does not leak. And to do as shown there - no matter how wise with the seal, valleys, visors, gutters, the roof will leak.

without roofing

You can greatly simplify complex and responsible roofing work or even get rid of them if you build an extension from the pediment (on the left in the figure). The front extension is often better coordinated with the house in terms of layout and architecture, and on narrow section this is often the only option.

However, when building an extension from the front, another problem arises: a passage into it, for which you will have to make an opening in the load-bearing wall. In frame houses, this is completely unacceptable. For a lumber, a calculation is needed: will the house move apart? In any case, at least 3-4 lower crowns must be left intact in the wall, counting from the grillage; perhaps the passage to the annex will turn out to be in the threshold. In a frame-shield wall, you can choose to fill any of the shields without touching the frame trim, as long as there are shields with jibs on both sides. Scheme of the device of the doorway in the capital brick wall given on the right in Fig. It is carried out in general in the next. order:

1. on both sides of the wall, grooves are made for a steel reinforcement box;
2. embedded parts of the front and rear parts of the box are installed in place and welded into frames;
3. the opening is selected gradually and alternately on both sides of the wall, carefully, without strong beat and pressure;
4. at the ends of the opening, anchor rods are immured under the transverse screeds;
5. couplers are welded to anchors and frames of boxes.

Since doorways in stone load-bearing walls are a responsible matter, watch another video on how to make an opening in a brick wall:

Video: opening in a brick wall for access to the extension

and in no way possible:

Last note: in load-bearing walls made of foam / aerated concrete, it is impossible to make an opening for passage into a residential attached extension in addition to the original calculated ones. If there is no significant additional load on the wall (exit to the outside, to a non-residential or residential adjacent extension), upper horizontal mortgages 1.75-1.9 m long are needed. Alas.

Very often in country house not enough extra space to relax. You can supplement the building with an additional living room, but a simpler option is to add a veranda. The dimensions of such a room and its appearance can be very diverse, which entails certain subtleties of the construction process.

Room Features

The planned construction of a residential building usually does not include a veranda, so this object often has to be added as needed. If the house has small dimensions, then often it lacks an area for additional storage of things or exclusively for relaxation. As soon as the need arises to organize such a space, you need to think about how to attach it to a residential building.

Type of veranda can be different, first of all, it depends on the material from which it is made, which, in turn, depends on the construction of the house itself. For a brick building, it is better to make the same veranda, since an attached structure made of a different material will be less reliable. The design of the extension must be either completely or partially closed, because the purpose of this new space must have some kind of function, and the more of them, the better.

When planning the location of the veranda, it is important to take into account the part of the house on which it would be best to complete the building. Usually this north side, where to the house is added real room where you can comfortably spend time at any time of the year. The veranda can replace summer kitchen, in which you can cook and eat food in warm weather, can serve as a resting place for the whole family, because in summer you can hide from the sun and be in nature, opening all windows as much as possible, and in spring and autumn it will be possible to contemplate the surrounding landscape without leaving from home.

When the veranda is assigned the role of a gym or a hobby room, it is best to place it in the direction of the windows to the garden so that the view of trees, flowers and bright greenery inspires accomplishments. When the extension serves as the entrance to the house, it is organized opposite the gate in order to maximize the convenience of getting into the living space.

As soon as the idea with the construction has finally matured in my head, you need to build it on paper and get down to business. The process is not the most difficult, but with improper planning and execution, the result can be very upsetting. For capital type veranda obligatory element there will be a foundation on which they build additional structure To home. Dimensions can be different, it all depends on the size of the house and the purpose new room. If the house is large, then you can add a gazebo to any length of the finished wall, as for the width, it is almost always two meters.

The dimensions of the veranda should not be made very large, because it unheated room, and from a large cold room and in the house itself it will be cool. It is optimal to make it half as small as the existing wall, provided a large house. If it is small, then it is quite appropriate to add a full-fledged room to the width of the house and to the required length, which the land plot of the yard allows.

Material selection

To build a good veranda, you first need to decide on the materials from which it will be built. You need to pay attention to each stage of work in order to achieve good result. It is best for a brick house to complete the veranda from brick, because it is easier to connect the same materials together and create a strong and robust design. For this type of work, it is important to make a foundation, because the building will have considerable weight and over time the soil will begin to sag and cracks will appear on the walls. It is important to make a sufficiently strong foundation, filling the trench with cement or making supports, placing the finished structure on them.

It is important to make the floor from a bar so that it is strong and powerful, then the coating will last a long time and will not cause any problems. On the beam itself, you can fill the boards and make a simple wooden floor, or use any other coating suitable for the veranda: laminate, linoleum, ceramic tiles. The walls are built of brick, and their height can be very different. The higher they are, the warmer it will be in the room, and the lower they are, the more light they can let in. You can practically do without them, using polycarbonate walls instead.

Fully glazed veranda it will be appropriate if it is made of high-quality double-glazed windows, where all seams are hermetically sealed and no gusts of wind penetrate inside. In this case, it will be pleasant to be on the veranda at any time of the year, because the picture of the surrounding world will be as close as possible and any family member can please himself with it.

It is best to build the same wooden veranda to a wooden house, because as soon as an extension made of wood will look logical in the general interior of the room and it will be much easier to work with materials of the same type. The foundation is not needed in this case. A frame base of the floor and walls is created, which are then sheathed with selected materials. The veranda decorated with patterns will look beautiful carved wood or original laying of materials during work. Window frame for this type of structure, there may be plastic, but glass will be able to convey color better, although there will be a risk of small drafts. Wooden verandas will be less capital than brick ones, but you can choose a different purpose for them and make full use of the new additional space.

In each of the options you need to make a roof. The lighter it is, the easier it is to install, and the less weight it will give to the structure itself. Having made the frame, it is necessary to sheathe it with either corrugated board or metal tiles. It is better to choose the color of the coating to match the roof of the house or as close as possible to it, so that everything together looks like one whole, and not disparate objects that are artificially connected together.

Constructions

As soon as the plan for the construction of the veranda has matured, it is necessary to take up the planning of each stage of work. The first point will be to determine the place where it is most logical to locate a new room.

Veranda can be:

• angular;
• end;
• facade.

As soon as the issue is resolved with the first task, you need to decide on the degree of closeness of the veranda.

There are only two possible options:

• closed;
• open.

If only a closed type of building is planned, it provides windows that can be opened for ventilation, and open type buildings are already a terrace. In a closed building, sliding elements can be provided that will help open the space as much as possible, which will make the room combined.

If the veranda is planned at the stage of building a house, then its design may have several options:

• built-in;
• attached type.

It is possible to build a veranda during the construction of the house itself, and attach it after the completion of the main process or even many years after that. Due to the fact that the design may differ, even greater variety can be seen in the forms of the veranda that can be built:

• rectangular structures;
• round and semicircular structures;
• polygonal extension, most often containing six corners.

When choosing one of the options, it is worth remembering that the veranda should not only serve as a kind of room, it should also beautifully complement the house, decorate it and become its highlight.

While all documentary cases are going on, there is time to deal with the designs of the veranda and choose the most suitable one for a particular house. It is important to initially decide whether this will be a full-fledged room, warm veranda or the usual light building. For private houses where they live all year round, winter veranda much more preferable, because it can be considered a living space. Exclusively summer building will be used only in the warm season, which reduces its versatility.

The arrangement of each of the premises will depend on many factors. If the veranda is insulated and closed, then you can place a sofa, armchairs in it and use it as a living room. In the case of an open veranda, it is better to place wicker furniture on it, which will not be affected by precipitation and which can be easily removed if not needed.

Having chosen a closed type of veranda for construction, sometimes it becomes necessary to build an additional open building. The gazebo will be a good option for those who like to sit on outdoors. Its dimensions can be quite small and, if desired, it can even be moved from place to place. If there is no desire to build a large number of buildings, then it is best to make a combined veranda, which will be completely covered, with windows, walls, but with sliding elements.

The design of the veranda can be angular, if it is not possible to place it along one of the walls, or L-shaped, if there is a desire to combine open and closed structure. The roof of the main extension should be capital and fully protected from all the vagaries of nature. For a gazebo, it will be enough to make a canopy, which will partially cover from the sun and rain, but the extension will perform the main function in the warm and dry season.

We beat the area

Depending on the dimensions of the house itself, the dimensions of the veranda will also differ. Internal filling of any space will be dictated not only by its size, but also functional purpose, for which it was built. Average dimensions comfortable veranda are 170 by 400 cm, but there are also small options, the length of which will be about two meters.

When there are unlimited possibilities for the construction of additional buildings, then their size will depend on what is supposed to be done in the room. If the veranda is planned as a gathering place for family, friends, a room for summer holidays and cozy gatherings in the evening, then it is very important to build a room with sufficient dimensions. It should easily accommodate a table and a sofa, you can arrange a mini bar, and in some cases even provide for a barbecue. Thus, the optimal area of ​​​​such a room will be 25 m2, and the length of one wall should not be less than five meters.

When only a few people live in a country house and there is no need to make large additional rooms, the veranda can be made such that a comfortable chair can be easily placed there and coffee table to be able to enjoy nature alone or in the company of one or two people. The dimensions of such a room can be two times smaller.

The area of ​​​​the veranda also depends on the type of its construction. If this is a rectangular room, then most often the length ranges from four to six meters, and the width is from three to four. In a square, all walls will have the same length. This option is rarely used for the entire width of the house, most often it is a side extension of small dimensions. For lovers unusual shapes you can build a veranda in the form of a semicircle or triangle.

Based on the choice of the type of building, materials for the frame, walls, glazing, floor and roof are also selected. Each construction option involves its own type of roof. For narrow verandas a shed roof is suitable, in a square and rectangular one it is a gable roof, and for original buildings the roof can also have an unusual appearance that will fully correspond to the style of the building.

If the plot of land on which the house stands has extraordinary dimensions and it is very difficult to build a veranda near the house, you can make this room in the form of a separate building that has a common passage with the house. Usually it is made in the form of a glass corridor, but combined compositions can also be used. In this case, it is possible to create an overall veranda of the original form. It can be a circle or a polyhedron, and hallmark will practically full review areas around it. The dimensions of such a structure can be any, the main thing is to harmoniously fit it into the existing territory so as not to spoil it and make it possible to enjoy it every day.

Interior design

The appearance of the veranda is important, because it must fit into the overall concept of the exterior and be in harmony with it, but the interior arrangement of this room is much more important. The use of various materials will depend primarily on two factors - the size of the room and its location relative to the cardinal points. If the building is small, it needs to be filled with light as much as possible, the same applies to their location in those parts of the house where there is little sunlight.

If the veranda is large, spacious and bright, this makes it possible to experiment with materials, shapes and even textures, especially in the case of closed type the buildings. It is important to decorate not only the walls, floor and ceiling, but also to use specially selected furniture.

Another important factor that significantly influences the choice building materials and the furniture to be used is the heating system. It is important to design an unheated area so that the material lasts as long and firmly as possible and does not have to be repaired annually. Finishing of all walls must be of high quality. In the work on the veranda, you cannot save money, otherwise all the work done inside the room will soon come to naught.

Each element of the veranda must be functional, beautiful and resistant to various external influences. Gender is important element arranging an extension, it can be sheathed using ordinary boards, but such a coating will be cold in winter. It is best to use heaters on which to put an additional layer of chipboard or fiberboard on top. You can finish the floors with laminate or tiles.

Speaking of walls, wooden buildings it is best to upholster them from the inside with clapboard, which has a pleasant color and texture and creates an imitation of the real wooden house. Working with this material is quite simple, it is reliable and durable, which means that the interior decoration will last for many years. If desired, it can be painted in any color, this will give freshness to the interior and additionally protect the wood from damage.

You can also hem the ceiling in the veranda using various materials. The cheapest will be a fiberboard sheet, multifunctional - drywall, the most beautiful - suspended ceiling. Sheathing with fiberboard sheets looks the simplest, but it can be stylishly decorated with foam tiles that are glued directly to the existing surface. It is important that the roof itself, its external coating and interior decoration are made of high-quality and lightweight materials so that there is no strong pressure on the foundation.

For the same reasons, the walls of the veranda itself can be laid out not from bricks, but from foam blocks. They have less weight and the construction is built in a shorter time due to the significant dimensions. This material can be faced if the blocks do not have a completely presentable appearance, or left untouched if even and beautiful seams were achieved during construction, and the foam blocks themselves were not previously used and have an ideal appearance.

As for the interior itself, it is not difficult to equip it.

The most common styles for this are:

• oriental theme;
• ecostyle;
• Scandinavian motifs;
• provence;
• country and similar directions.

The arrangement of the veranda in any of these options has one common feature- These are natural materials that should be used in the decoration and furnishing of the room.

To give warmth, coziness and comfort, there are a number of items that will be appropriate in any style:

• decorative pillows for sofas and armchairs;
• beautiful tablecloths on the table, the use of embroidery, ornament, interesting pattern;
• for certain styles, it will be appropriate to use chair covers;
• to give a romantic effect to the interior, you can add candles on decorative candlesticks;
• the use of paintings, photographs will create a complete look.

By erecting a veranda in a private house, you can make a functional full-fledged room out of it, where it will be dry, warm, light and comfortable. In addition to the recreation area, you can use such a room as an office, living room, kitchen with dining room, greenhouse and even a children's room. Having all the necessary tools and materials, without violating the construction technology, you can make a full-fledged room that will become for someone a real personal space or a public domain and a place of rest.

landscape design

Equipping the territory country house, it is necessary to think over both the construction of housing, verandas, and other outbuildings, if they are needed, but also pay attention to green spaces, which play a very big role. If the territory is being arranged in the country house, then in addition to the garden itself, the garden and the vineyard, it is important to make an area with flower beds, ornamental trees, alpine slides. These elements are traditionally placed in a place where it is most convenient to contemplate the man-made beauty.

If the house has a veranda, then it is necessary to put the earth outside not just in order, but to make a miniature garden, which will look interesting and please the eye. Exotic lovers can place a rock garden on the site, and those who prefer to relax with the sounds of water should organize a fountain or similar structure where it will constantly circulate.

Trees along the edges of the decorated area can be large enough to delimit the recreation area from the garden or yard. It is important to use a variety of plants that will create a symbiosis of shapes, colors and sizes, but they must be correctly and beautifully arranged.

If the site outside the veranda has a slope, then this disadvantage can be interestingly beaten. One option would be a ladder of different types of plants that are planted on the same level, each of which is clearly divided by height. It will be very beautiful if a small pond or fountain is organized at the bottom of such steps. For a territory that is very small, it is possible to artificially create uneven soil. Ravines and hillocks will visually make the space large and give you the opportunity to use large quantity green spaces of various types.

If the landscape is being developed for a long time, then it is important to do it right by providing a drainage system with diversion Wastewater into a special sewer. This stage is the very first, before it is imported new earth and plants are planted. When laying all the pipes is ready, you need to take care of a layer of drainage material. Once all the preparations are made, you can begin to introduce the soil on which all the plants will be planted.

Usually, behind beautiful landscapes, there should be a fence separating the territory of the house from neighbors or the street. This design often spoils the appearance and general impression from nature, therefore it is recommended to hide it behind a hedge, which is most often made of coniferous trees which grow quickly and have a beautiful appearance. Another important element is the lawn, which can have different kind depending on its purpose. If children or pets will play on it, then you need to buy tougher grass, in the case of exclusively decorative effect you can plant elite varieties that are distinguished by their sophisticated structure, pleasant color, but requiring more attention and care.

With regards to trees, they are planted a little, because they grow quickly and attract all the attention. If you plant only a few plantings, then you need to choose those species that will have a beautiful and interesting appearance all year round. These are arborvitae, maples, nuts, chestnuts, oaks, spruces and other options. If the area near the veranda has a large area, then the composition will have the main focus in the middle in the form of high group plantings and smaller ones near it. Very popular and hedges.

If it is possible to form paths in the area to be decorated, then they can also be planted with shrubs on both sides. It will be beautiful if these plants are cut regularly, which will give an even greater decorative effect to the landscape. If we talk about a flower garden, it is important to plant flowers in it so that some blooming ones replace others, and this process begins in early spring and lasts until late autumn. In addition, it is advisable to seat them according to colors, so that there are no options of the same tone nearby and each the new kind pleased with an interesting and unusual shade.

The final touch in the design of the landscape design of the territory of a country house with a veranda will be the arrangement of lighting. In the evening, being on the veranda, it is very pleasant to look at nature in the rays of the setting sun or artificial lighting. If this is not the case, then all the beauty outside the window will disappear with the last rays and nothing will be visible until morning. With the help of small lamps, flashlights and light bulbs, you can slightly illuminate the area, arranging them so as to focus on the most beautiful specimens. You can also install lighting near the water, making the site even more beautiful and mysterious and be able to admire it at any time of the day or night.

Beautiful examples for inspiration

Having a country house, it is important to make sure that everything in it is beautiful and functional. This also applies to the veranda. In this space, you can organize any room, while using additional elements. A veranda with a fireplace or a stove will have a cozy and warm look. In the cold season, these devices will help warm the air in the room. If the veranda is not used during the cold season, then you can not heat it. In a private house, it would be appropriate to organize a veranda with a barbecue in order to make delicious barbecue or other dishes on fire as soon as possible.

For suburban area the construction of a low house is typical, although there are also two-story ones. As for the veranda itself, it belongs to a one-story room, which can be fully or partially residential, depending on the type of building.

The veranda in a country house can be made of double-glazed windows and look like a completely transparent structure, which adds lightness to it and does not clutter up the space.

If in a private house there is not enough area in which you can gather with the whole family or arrange a meeting with guests, then the veranda will become great solution this problem. To do this, you need to equip it with a living room with kitchen elements. It is important that the interior is warm, but has country motifs in the form of wicker furniture and a wooden table with a bench.

If the veranda is being built in order to create personal space and the opportunity to be alone with yourself, then for such a room it is important to use comfortable upholstered furniture, place a coffee table next to it, placing it all in front of large glass windows that open a full panorama of the entire area, which was carefully prepared specifically for these goals. This is a budget option, but it is he who is best suited for a good rest.