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Dracaena home care watering transplant and reproduction. How to transplant homemade dracaena into another pot

I never understood ornamental plants. I'm a girl, give me flowers, but brighter and more magnificent. But when the child was born, she moved to her mother for a while. And her entire loggia is lined with dracaena.

At first, I did not even notice these worthy plants, but when my mother asked for help with pruning, I became interested. And when she returned home, she begged for a couple of pots to decorate the interior. Now I can’t even imagine my apartment without these striped beauties!

These trees or shrubs are related to garden asparagus.

"In the wild" they grow in Africa, less often - in the tropics of Central America and South Asia.

The name translates as "draconiha", that is, "female dragon". Although in everyday life the dracaena is called simpler: “false palm”.

What is the peculiarity of this species

Young bushes resemble hedgehogs studded with sharp leaves. When the dracaena grows up, the bush moves up and becomes a crown, and the stem of the plant becomes bare and begins to resemble a pillar. Although there are species whose leaves continue to grow along the stem in a spiral.

Dracaena are perennials. They grow slowly but surely. And if you buy a small flowerpot, over the years it will outgrow the cat first, then the children, and then you yourself.

In an apartment, they rarely bloom. The flowers are small but very fragrant. They look something like this:

You can grow dracaena to decorate a small apartment and big house. It will also be appropriate in the lobby of a large office and even a hotel.

A brief overview of the most popular types of dracaena

Biologists say that there are several hundred species of this plant. But of course, the majority "frolic in the wild."

• Godsefa. A beautiful, low bush, not at all like a dracaena. Rounded, wide leaves are decorated with white spots. The view is considered the most picky.

• Sandera (bamboo of happiness). The most popular species, semi-shrub. Cuttings root easily in a glass of water. The leaves are striped, light green-gray. The bushes are relatively low (up to 80 cm), do not require special care. The trunk of Sander's dracaena really resembles bamboo, which is why it is often used in various flower growing experiments with the shape and direction of this stem (pictured).

• Fragrant. The striped leaves are yellow-green in color and have thin white stripes. Grow up to 1 meter. The plant blooms with small fluffy balls (though only in nature or in greenhouses - not in the apartment). When flowering, it smells strongly (reminiscent of the aroma of a lily).

• Compact. Variety of the previous species. Varnished leaves are relatively short, collected in bunches, completely green. Such dracaena grow quite high.

• Reflex (bent). Its leaves do curl down a little. Each has noticeable light streaks running the entire length of the leaf.

• Deremskaya. And these leaves are “painted” with white, green, and a little light green stripes. Very elegant look!

• Draconic (draco). Greenhouse format tree, decorated with bunches of sharp leaves. The juice of the plant is transparent, but over time it turns red and thickens (some people call it "dragon's blood").

• Bordered (marginate). Another resident of greenhouses, growing up to 3 meters. Although in the apartment this plant also feels good.

What care does dracaena require

• Light. In winter, the plant simply needs it, and in the summer of our sun, the dracaena is a bit too much. Therefore, hide the pot in partial shade, keeping it not even on the windowsill, but next to it. Choose west or south wall. And even better - put the pot in the shade of the veranda, the dracaena likes a lot of clean air.

An important point: the brighter, more multi-colored dracaena leaves, the more light it needs. The same applies to the temperature of the room: monophonic leaves are good at 16-17 degrees, and give color 19 and above.

• Watering. Dig the soil: if it has dried out by 2 cm, immediately take a watering can. It is necessary to water the dracaena often and in large quantities (in summer - somewhere every two days, and in winter too, if the pot is not far from the radiator). But it is important to remember: although the plant came from the humid tropics, it is better to forget to water it once than mistakenly water it twice.

Always defend the water for your green pet, and if possible, filter it.

• water procedures. The plant does not like our radiators. Therefore, in winter, when the batteries dry the air, spray the bush twice a day. The water must be room temperature. By the way, dracaena will not be offended if you spray it in the summer too. You can also wear it in the bath and put it under a warm shower.
• Top dressing. Fertilizers for palm trees and other green (decorative leaf) plants are suitable for you. You can make them every 2 weeks, from April to September inclusive. Then the plant enters hibernation.
• Room temperature. In summer, dracaena should be kept at 18-20 degrees, in winter - at 12-18.

Pruning: what is it for, how to do it

Sometimes the plant stretches up several meters and you get a brown stick sticking out of the pot with a few leaves growing on top of it. Ugly!

Trim the shoots from above (they can be rooted), and also shorten the trunk of the dracaena to a reasonable size. Fresh leaves will soon grow from the trunk. So you get two beautiful dracaena.

But if you are doing pruning for the first time, you are probably worried - how not to have too much? The correct "technology" will be shown in this video:

Reproduction of this flowerpot

So, you have in your hands the stalk obtained after pruning. It is correct to make it a decent size - from 10 to 15 cm. By the way, it can be not only apical. The cut stem can also be “chopped” into cuttings and rooted, like this:

1. Treat a fresh cut of the cutting with a tablet activated carbon(crushed), and then the drug "Zircon". Remove the extra (lower) leaves. You can also thin out the crown of the cutting, removing either a few, or even a third of the leaves.
2. Pour drainage into a small pot. Next, place the “adult” soil (it is sold in stores, it’s called “For dracaena”, the soil “For palm trees” is also suitable). Water well.
3. Plant the cutting in a pot, if necessary, add more soil.
4. Water, and he will give roots, becoming a young bush.

As for the cropped "old man", pour paraffin on the shortened stem - this will seal it from drying out and rotting. Water the old plant too, and it will delight you with a new green shoot.

Transfer: what you need to know

• "Young growth" can be transplanted annually, older plants less often (every 2-3 years).
• The best time for such a procedure is the period from March to April. Although there are no contraindications against summer, autumn or winter transplantation either.
• It is better to use the transshipment method.
• The pot should be taken from clay. Before planting, it is doused with boiling water, this will disinfect the vessel.
• So that the roots do not fester, a large shard of clay can be placed on the bottom (under the drainage), preferably in the form of a saucer. Place it "bottom" up, excess liquid will drain under it.
• After transplantation, dracaena may get sick. Put it immediately in the shade, spray the leaves - so it will be easier for her to acclimatize in the new "house".

What is the plant afraid of?

• Insects. Pests threatening dracaena are quite common: spider mite, thrips, aphids, scale insects, mealybug. As soon as you see these uninvited guests, wash the leaves with soap (the mites will leave only if the soap solution is not colder than 50 degrees), and then treat with a store-bought insecticide.
• Leaves are falling. If before that they turned pale and wilted, the dracaena froze. Maybe the roots are rotting - then cut off the top and root again. Cause of rot: regular overflow or hypothermia of the earth in a pot.
• The plant is rotting. This is either an infection (weeping areas on the leaves or stem speak of it, and then things are bad - the dracaena may not survive), or bad soil(too heavy), or banal neglect (you pour the plant, it is cold, it is too dark near the pot). Cut away rotten areas. Sprinkle these places with crushed coal, take better care of the flower - maybe it will go away.
• Dracaena dries up. Brown, dried-up "islands" scream: we are not being sprayed enough, and the air is too dry. Another reason: soil. It has either not changed for years and is salted, or you have stuffed it too much with fertilizers.
• The leaves turn yellow. If only from below, it's not scary - the leaves have simply become obsolete, and you just have to cut them off. If young leaves turn yellow, you are either overwatering or (most likely) watering your pet too infrequently.

More about the diseases of this worthy home plant this video will tell:

You will need

• - soil;
• - pot;
• - drainage (expanded clay, medium fractions);
• - knife and spatula;
• - water at room temperature.

Instruction

Should dracaena be transplanted immediately after purchase? On the one hand, this should be done with any plant - indoor flowers bought in a store, by the time they were purchased, could already exhaust all nutrients in the soil and "grow" out of your pot. And the pots in which plants are sold, most often temporary, are not very High Quality. In addition, they lack drainage and often even drainage holes. On the other hand, as for the dracaena, it cannot be transplanted at any time of the year. Transplantation should be done only in the spring. Therefore, if you purchased a plant at another time, and it feels normal (the leaves do not turn yellow, do not fall off), it is better to wait for the onset of spring.

Dracaena that live in your home need to be transplanted every year. That is, every spring you need to go to the store for a new pot, substrate and transplant. The substrate and the pot are two important components when transplanting dracaena. These plants are suitable only for well-drained soil with big amount peat, acidity not higher than 6.5 pH. Under no circumstances should you use garden soil from the site or the old one left over from other colors. If you want to make the soil yourself, you need to mix sod and leafy soil, compost, high-moor peat and fine-grained river sand (for adults, coarse-grained dracaena should be taken). The ratio is as follows - 2:1:1:0.5:0.5.

A pot for dracaena should also be chosen carefully. It should fit perfectly in size and should not be large. For a dracaena 50 cm high, you will need a pot no more than 20 cm. In terms of volume - 2-3 cm more than the previous one. The pot may be plastic, but it will be better for the roots to “breathe” in a ceramic one. Plus, it's more stable. drainage holes and a drainage layer (small fractions of expanded clay for young plants and large fractions for adults) at the bottom of the pot are required. Dracaena does not tolerate stagnant water.

The pot must be disinfected with boiling water. Pour drainage and some soil into it. Carefully remove the dracaena from old container and release the roots from the old soil. The roots must be inspected, sprayed with water from a spray bottle. If there are damaged and dead roots, they are removed with a knife and the cut is sprinkled with crushed charcoal. Then the plant is placed in a new pot and covered with soil at the same level at which it grew. The soil is trampled down so that no voids form inside, and watered. After two months, the transplanted dracaena must be fed. It is best to use Zircon for this purpose.

Everything has its time. And what can be difficult - to transplant a plant? However, everything has its own nuances. But what about dracaena? Before starting the transplant process, it is worth preparing properly. And most importantly, learn not only about the transplant in general, but also about the plant that needs a transplant. IN this case- dracaena.

Preparation, used land

Maybe someone doubts, but it is the soil that is the key to a good and beneficial transplant. Each plant, like humans, has its own tastes and preferences. In principle, the soil for dracaena is not so important, but there are preferences.

Dracaena prefers a drained substrate using peat. The acidity of peat should be 6.0 - 6.5 pH. And yet, flower lovers should try to compose the soil themselves, rather than simply collect it on their site.

The reasons for this are as follows: firstly, it is that the soil on the site can be oversaturated with minerals; secondly, it is a glut of fertilizers.

If, nevertheless, you don’t particularly want to engage in this process, you can not be stingy and buy ready mix in a specialized store. So even, perhaps, it will be much easier. Compound self cooking: leaf, compost, sod and peat lands. The ratio should be 2:1:1:0.5.

For looseness of the soil, river sand is often used. If the plant is young, then it is worth focusing on a smaller one. If, nevertheless, the plant is old enough, choose a larger one.

Pot selection

Choosing a pot - it seems that it could be easier, but no, even here there are rules.

When choosing a pot, it is better to pay attention not only to its appearance, but also to adhere to the following:

1. For dracaena it is worth choosing suitable pot based on its root size. In this case, if the height of the dracaena has reached 40 cm, the diameter will be approximately 15 cm.
2. Any new pot should exceed the previous one by 2-3 cm. Amateur flower growers should be reminded that they should not buy pots big size, even at the very beginning of landing.
3. Someone proves and prefers, in the care of dracaena, to use exclusively ceramic pots, and someone plastic. There are no obligations in this matter, so the choice is up to the owner.
4. If there is a choice of a pot for an adult dracaena, it is recommended to look at fairly stable structures, like the shape of a glass.
5. It is mandatory to have holes at the bottom so that the liquid does not linger.

Dracaena transplant

Transplantation plays an important role in the life of the plant. It will depend on how the transplant will take place, how correctly, in a timely manner, and most importantly, qualitatively everything will pass. further fate dracaena.

It is necessary to transplant dracaena, exclusively, in the spring. Do not disturb her peace in the fall. After all, it is during this period that she begins preparing for winter, and transplantation can adversely affect the condition of the plant.

List of necessary things:

1. The soil;
2. New pot;
3. Drainage;
4. Water at room temperature;
5. Sharp knife or secateurs;
6. Spray bottle with water.

Transplant instructions:

1. Treat the new pot with hot water.
2. Pour into the bottom of the drainage pot. The height of the drainage depends entirely on the presence of holes in the bottom. If they are, then 2-3 cm, if not, then you need to increase a little.
3. Carefully remove the dracaena from the old pot and release the roots from the previous soil. If there are rots on the roots, remove them immediately.
4. Spray the roots with a spray bottle (or other available water spray).
5. Place the dracaena in a new pot and fill the roots with the existing soil. Air bags should not be allowed.
6. Water the plant with fertilizer.

After transplanting, dracaena requires moderate watering, as well as fertilizers (2 times a month). Many recommend using Zircon as a fertilizer.

Dracaena transplant after purchase

Does the plant need to be transplanted after purchase or not? main reason transplants can serve her appearance or you can ask the seller about this, what he will recommend.

Feeding after transplant

For any plant, transplanting is stressful. A period of adaptation is needed. For dracaena, the adaptation period lasts about 2 weeks. And, of course, supplements are needed during this period, as was written above, the use of Zircon is recommended, no more than 2 times a month.

In general, this process is carried out from March to November, regardless of whether the plant was transplanted or not. In winter, top dressing is done 1 time per month, reducing the dose by 2 times. It will also fruitfully affect if the owner acquires for his pet, universal fertilizer for dracaena and palm trees.

Watering after transplant

Watering is very normal, slightly moderate for the first 2 weeks and with Zircon.

Outcome

In principle, after reading this article and taking into account the most important points, then any, even the most novice grower, can cope with this easy task.

In order for the dracaena to delight with its beauty and decorate the interior of the room for many years, it must be periodically transplanted.

Transplanting a plant is not a very simple process and there are some subtleties in it. It is very important to transplant the plant correctly so as not to injure it. root system.

Dracaena unpretentious and suitable for any soil. But it is more correct to plant a flower in a substrate, which includes peat. It is undesirable for planting a flower to take land from garden plot. Such soil is saturated with mineral salts and various fertilizers.

The quality of the soil affects the condition of the flower, its development and growth.

The soil can be picked up at a flower shop. As a rule, specially prepared soil already includes components that are necessary for dracaena at home. The composition of such soil includes nutrients for the development of the plant.

If you decide to prepare the soil yourself, then it should contain the following components:

• sod land
• leaf ground
• Compost land
• peat land
• Baking powder (river sand is used)

How to choose the right pot

Not always a beautiful-looking pot is suitable for a plant. There are certain rules on how to choose a flowerpot:

1. The capacity of the pot should come from on the size of the root system. If the height of the plant is 40 cm, then the diameter of the pot is 15 centimeters.
2. In the future, a pot is selected, the diameter of which should increase by 2-3 centimeters. Can't plant small plant in a disproportionately large pot. The flower will spend a lot of energy on the development of the root system, while the growth of the flower will be very slow.
3. Dracaena can be grown in both ceramic and plastic pots.
4. For an older plant, you need to choose stable pots that resemble the shape of a glass.
5. At the bottom of the pot for sure should have holes, because dracaena does not like when water stagnates in the ground for a long time. You can not buy a pot "with a margin." The water in such a pot will begin to stagnate, and this can adversely affect the health of the flower.

When a flower is planted in a large pot

If the plant is already an adult, in this case it is necessary to make the transfer of the flower into a more voluminous pot.
When you notice that the roots of the flower have filled the entire container and displaced the soil from it, it means that an urgent transplant is required in a large pot. If this is not done in a timely manner, its leaves will begin to dry, growth will slow down and the flower may die.

The roots do not grow in width, but in depth - this must be taken into account when choosing a pot.

How not to harm the dracaena when transplanting

Any indoor plant during transplantation, it is injured near the roots. It should be transplanted only in cases where it is really necessary. It is important to adhere to the following recommendations:

1. Need to choose right soil composition- it is advisable to buy land intended for palm trees, since dracaena is a palm plant.
2. Comply with hygiene requirements - all tools to be used, i.e. secateurs and scissors must be kept clean.
3. Provide the plant good conditions to restore the root system. For this you need water the flower only with soft and settled water.

Transplant at home: step by step instructions

If the plant is transplanted correctly, then it takes root well and begins to grow rapidly. In order to perform the transplant correctly, you need to follow the instructions:

1. Before transplanting a flower, you need prepare the ground. The earth should be loose, nutritious. It should include peat. If the soil is prepared at home, it should include: leaf ground, peat crumb, humus. Everything is taken in equal proportions. A little is added to this mixture. charcoal and river sand.
2. At the bottom of the tank, a material is poured that serves as drainage: expanded clay or a small nut. Then there will be no stagnation of water in the lower part of the pot, and putrefactive and fungal diseases will not develop.
3. For dracaena small size a pot is purchased, the diameter of which is 15 centimeters, preferably clay or ceramic. In such pots there is no stagnant water.
4. A few days before transplant need to completely stop watering.
5. In the process of transplanting, you need to firmly take the dracaena by the stem and very carefully pull it out of the old pot without removing the earthen ball from the roots.
6. After that, it is necessary to examine all the roots well and cut off the empty dark brown branches inside the root system.
7. The bottom of the pot is covered with drainage, then the pot is filled with a third of the prepared soil. In the center, you can leave a small depression in which you need to carefully place the dracaena and straighten the roots. It is important to make sure that the stem is standing straight, not at an angle. Now the roots are sprinkled with the remaining earth so that the plant is held tightly in the ground and does not fall. Roots must be completely covered with soil. Upper layer must be loose to allow air to enter.
8. Now the dracaena needs to be watered. In the first watering after transplantation, you can add a drug that promotes rapid healing and recovery. For example, Kornevin.

The roots have the ability to recover very quickly after pruning. Therefore, excess branches must be cut off so that it develops and grows better.

When watering, it is advisable to use trays for pots. If you pour water into the tray, the flower will absorb as much liquid as it needs. The remaining water must be drained so that the roots do not rot.

Watering a flower without a pallet is dangerous, as root rot may occur.

How to root a plant

So that the dracaena does not experience discomfort during rooting, transplanting is best done in the spring: March, April. Before the transplant procedure, about a month in advance, complex nutrition is introduced to add strength to the plant. During this period, you can use top dressing, minerals and other useful components.

After transplanting, you need to create gentle care for the dracaena, make sure that watering is moderate. The soil should not be dry, but not too wet.

When the plant takes root after transplantation, you can return to the usual care scheme.

Basic rules for care

After transplanting, the plant must adapt to new conditions, get used to the new pot. During this period, it can get sick if you do not give it proper attention. /a

The main points that you should pay attention to after transplanting dracaena:

1. Watering- must be carried out in the usual way. Water for irrigation should be soft and settled. It is advisable to add healing and strengthening preparations to the water in the first days after transplantation, for example, Zircon.
2. top dressing Needed to stimulate root growth. Adaptation of dracaena after transplantation proceeds within a few weeks. For the formation of the root system, it is necessary to feed the dracaena once every two weeks. Top dressing with fertilizers is necessary in spring, summer and autumn. These are the periods when the flower grows and spends a lot of energy.
3. After transplanting, the pot is placed in a dark place where direct sunlight does not fall.
4. Wet air – necessary condition after transplant. The room where the flower is located should be frequently ventilated.

From March to November, once every few weeks, you need to feed the dracaena. In winter, top dressing is done once a month.

Dangerous diseases and pests of dracaena

In order for the dracaena to grow into a beautiful palm tree, it is necessary to take care of it in a timely and proper manner. Regularly inspect once every two weeks. If the disease is detected in early stage, it can be cured in as soon as possible and avoid negative consequences.

Most often, Dracaena is affected by pests such as mealybug, spider mite, thrips, aphids, scale insects.

1. Shchitovka- This is a red-colored insect with a shell that digs into the stems and leaves and sucks out the juice. The leaf turns pale, dries up and falls off. You need to remove the insect with a sponge dipped in soapy water. After that, the plant is treated with insecticides.
2. thrips- settle on the leaves in colonies and are usually located on the underside of the leaf. They form a white spot on the sheet, which eventually acquires Brown color. It is necessary to treat the flower with insecticides.
3. Aphid- affects the leaf and apical shoots, leads to the fact that the leaves become discolored and turn yellow. Also treated with insecticides.
4. fungal diseases- lead to the appearance of light brown spots that blacken over time. Treat with fungicides.