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Wall cladding with plasterboard on a wooden frame. Rules for the manufacture of a wooden frame for drywall How to fix drywall on wood

So popular finishing material, like GKL, in most cases is attached to a special frame. Usually it is mounted from metal profiles. Alternative option- a crate of wooden beams, which is very easy to assemble with your own hands. But do not be deceived by the ease of manufacture: wood is a capricious material, its use is far from always possible. Consider all the features of this design and find out when and how you can make a wooden crate for drywall on your own.

Features and disadvantages of wood lathing

erection wooden frame under GKL attracts low cost and ease of operation. Especially if during the repair a small number of boards remain that can be used as slats load-bearing structure. In this case, you do not have to spend money on the purchase of a metal profile, as well as the necessary fasteners, for example.

But you should also remember about the properties of wood that limit its use in construction:

• Wooden structures are subject to change geometric dimensions with excessive or insufficient moisture. Drywall attached to such a crate will move with it, resulting in cracks that appear at the joints of the sheets. This is a continuous process, as the wood gives off moisture when the room is dry or absorbs it when the humidity is excessive.
• Alignment of walls with gypsum boards is often combined with insulation. Under these conditions, ventilation of the wooden parts of the crate is minimal, which leads to their rapid decay.
• Bars are not well suited for leveling walls. It is unacceptable to use wedges for lining: over time, the tree can bend under the influence of moisture and temperature, and weak areas form in the places of such linings.

• It is not recommended to use a wooden frame when finishing with a plasterboard ceiling. This design does not have a sufficient margin of safety; it is better to use a metal profile for this purpose.
• It is unacceptable to use a wooden frame in rooms with a high level of humidity or temperature. Strictly speaking, a crate made of this material is only suitable for rooms with constant microclimate indicators.
• If it is planned to place under the surface of the GCR electric wires, then you need to use metal guides: wooden elements do not have a sufficient level of fire safety.

When can I make a frame for gypsum boards out of wood?

It is recommended to use a wooden structure for plasterboard sheets:

• In houses made of logs or timber. In this case, the crate is ideally combined with the material of the walls due to the same physical properties. It turns out that any change in humidity is compensated. In such conditions, drywall remains motionless and is not damaged.
• IN ordinary apartments with perfect smooth walls. In this case, the timber frame will be a reliable basis for fixing the plasterboard.

Advantages

pros wooden crate:

• Simple installation, which can be done by hand.
• Available and cheap materials, more environmentally friendly than a metal profile.
• Subject to all necessary conditions a properly installed crate will last a long time and will be a reliable basis for drywall sheets.

Tools and materials

First of all, you will need wooden beam with a cross section of at least 40 × 40 mm. If it is planned to carry out insulation and soundproofing, then the beam must be chosen thicker, for example 40 × 80 mm. To prevent decay, it is impregnated with antiseptic and water-repellent solutions. It would be useful to treat it with a composition that improves the fire safety of the material.

Before installation, all wooden elements must be kept indoors for several days in order to adapt to its microclimate and take on their final geometric shape.

You will also need:

• Measuring tool: level, plumb line, tape measure.
• Pencil, coated cord.
• and dowels for attaching the timber to the wall.
• A screwdriver and self-tapping screws, as well as corners for connecting frame elements to each other.
• Hacksaw, hammer and construction knife.

As you can see, almost the entire tool can be found in the arsenal of even a novice master. To install a wooden frame and fasten drywall, you do not have to purchase specialized expensive fixtures.

Lathing installation

Preparatory work consists in removing the old coating if there is doubt about its strength. Things in the room can be covered plastic wrap or other material.

The order of the wooden frame device:

• First you need to do the markup. The size of the GCR determines optimal step between vertical posts - 600 mm. Thus, each sheet will be attached to three bars: one in the center, and two at the edges. The joints should be located on the surface of the rack, as shown in the photo.

• A horizontal beam is attached to the ceiling. Using a plumb line, the location of the rail on the floor is determined. They must be located strictly in the same plane.

In the case of a perfectly even overlap, horizontal bars can be attached directly to the wall. Here, the same thickness of all elements of the crate is of paramount importance: any error in size will result in frame irregularities.

• Vertical racks are attached to the beams on the ceiling and floor strictly according to the level. To the wall, they are mounted on dowel-nails, for which holes are pre-drilled in the rails and in the wall for fasteners.

In houses with wooden walls, you can mount racks to the base with wood screws. But you still need to drill holes: this eliminates the likelihood that the beam will crack.

• The heads of the self-tapping screws are recessed deep into the sheet by 1 mm.
• In the future, as well as deepening the heads of the screws.
• After grinding, the surface is primed and ready for further finishing.

- popular look finishing works due to the versatility of building materials. Basically they are attached to. Drywall on wooden slats is the second most popular installation method.

Wooden slats can be used in the installation of partitions, walls and ceilings

Despite the development construction market, traditional environmentally friendly materials remain in demand. If a brick or foam block is used for the house, then the bathhouse will definitely be from timber. For such buildings, it is logical to install drywall on wooden slats.

In the back rooms with niches, on the loggias, they come in pieces, their assembly is difficult in cramped conditions. It is much more convenient to cut the bars. The tree has a low thermal conductivity, so it will be warmer on the balcony. As you can find on our website. The crate can be made of different depths and pick up the timber in width. It has the required thickness.

In a private house with a subsidiary farm there is a supply of wood. From it you can cut a beam for the frame right size. The wood is easy to work with and easy to fit. small size.

Wooden blocks are easy to process and easy to fit to small sizes.

On drywall with a wooden base, you can. The frame from the profile is reinforced with a bar, attaching it inside the planks.

And finally, it will cost less than a profile.

Design flaws

The disadvantages include:

1. Afraid of increased dampness. Therefore, in the bathroom, rooms with unstable temperature regime do not recommend installing a wooden base under the GKL. Special impregnations can increase resistance to moisture, prevent the formation of mold and fungus.
2. Wood is a living material; under adverse conditions, it shrinks, it can lead. To prevent this from happening, be sure to choose a dry timber (14-16% moisture content). Before installation, it should lie indoors for at least a week.
3. Wood is heavier than a metal profile - consider the loads, especially when assembling ceiling structures.

Remember that even after treatment with special impregnations, wood is highly flammable.

Construction modeling, markup

Before proceeding with the installation of the frame from the rails, it is necessary to draw its diagram, make a preliminary calculation.

Scheme, material calculation

Measure the surface area of ​​a wall, ceiling or partition:

1. Standard sizes of bars: 50 x 50 mm, 50 x 40 mm, 50 x 70 mm. For partitions: 80 x 80 and 100 x 100 mm.
2. Calculate the length of the guides running along the perimeter of the surface.
3. Step between vertical bars from 400 to 600 mm. There are 2-3 slats per sheet of drywall ( standard width 1 200, height 2 500 mm).
4. Then the jumpers are drawn and counted, the standard distance between them is 600 mm.

Read also

Joining drywall profiles

To calculate the linear footage, count the number of racks with jumpers and multiply them by the length.

Appearance wooden frame with the designation of the constituent elements

Note! around windows and doorways additionally install a reinforcing box. It also needs to be taken into account when designing.

fasteners

For work you will need:

• self-tapping screws or press washers for wood (20-40 mm);
• metal corners (for connecting jumpers and rack-mount strips);
• dowel-nails (for mounting the frame to the wall).

To determine the amount of building material, you need to divide the surface area by the area (2.5 x 1.2 m).

Advice. Purchase building materials with a 15-20% margin, taking into account substandard waste.

markup

Planning is carried out in three stages:

1. The surface of the floor and ceiling is rarely perfectly flat, so first determine the lowest point in the corners of the room. It is measured with a tape measure.
2. They beat off the horizon along the border of the entire room. In small rooms (up to 20 square meters), a building level or hydro level is used. Marking is conveniently carried out using an electronic tape measure with manual leveling. To do this, it is fixed in the place of the lowest point in the corner of the room. Expose a laser mark, retreating 5 cm from the level of the floor and ceiling. Make marks on it, then draw a line. Also, you can use a chopping cord.
3. Mark the location of the rack beam along the horizon line (with a distance of 40-60 cm).

Installation

Before starting work, the timber is processed protective composition deep penetration to improve moisture resistance. To start after complete drying of the impregnation.

In the course of work, you will need tools:

• drill with a chipper, screwdriver;
• building level, tape measure;
• plumb and square;
• under electrical outlets.

Each stage of marking and connection is checked using a level or building corner.

For leveling or redevelopment of living space, partitions made of GVL or drywall are used. GKL win against the background of brick and block partitions in that they are light, the equipment of such structures is quick and simple, and after completion of work there is little dirt and dust left. GKL and GVL are economical, good heat and sound insulation.

In addition to the standard GKL, there are such types of material:

• moisture resistant;
• fire resistant;

Moisture resistant used in places with high humidity, fire-resistant is used for other premises (kitchen, service premises).

GKL is great for finishing living rooms, because it is environmentally friendly and, when heated, does not emit poisons. Regulates the microclimate of the room in a natural way.

Moisture resistant drywall

For durable structures, GVL is used. These are gypsum-fiber sheets that are stronger than drywall. GVL is made from building plaster with additives. GVL - eco-friendly material for dry construction, it does not have a cardboard shell like drywall. But there are such disadvantages of using GVL:

• GVL is heavier than GKL;
• costs more.

Characteristics of a wooden frame

GCR fastening to a wooden frame is often used.

A timber frame is cheaper than a metal one, it is made from wooden planks and bars, wood is usually used conifers. Bars with a section of 40 * 40 centimeters are used at the junction of two layers or where massive objects (mirror or cabinet) will be on the wall.

Material requirements:

• The moisture content of wood is from 12 to 18%;
• Fire treatment must comply with the first fire safety group;
• The wall thickness should not exceed 132 mm.

Before use, wooden slats are processed protective equipment from fire and pests, are viewed for the presence of knots and irregularities.

Base fixing

Screwing drywall parts onto wooden slats must be carried out in residential and dry buildings. The frame is assembled in accordance with the vertical and horizontal levels, otherwise the structure will come out skewed.

Construction tools:

• hammer;
• perforator;
• nails;
• building level;
• self-tapping screws;
• mounting dowels;
• metal corners.

If the design needs additional insulation, then this is done during assembly.

Base fastening technology

Stages of work:

• The partition is preliminarily marked on the ceiling with the help of a level, then the wooden frame is fixed;
• Fix the strapping bars, starting from the ceiling. Then comes the floor, and after it - the walls. It will be easier to work if all the coatings in the building are made of wood (liquid nails or self-tapping screws will do). If the house is made of brick and concrete, then fastening is done with dowels and anchors to the ceiling;
• Having fixed the bars on the ceiling, they make markings on the floor (at least three marks) and continue to mount the frame.
• After checking the compliance of the fasteners with respect to the ceiling and floor, they begin to mount the base. To do this, it is enough to connect the floor and ceiling guides vertical bars. The distance between them is observed at least 40-50 centimeters. It is very important to install these bars with high quality, since the main load will fall on them.
• After installing the verticals, the racks are fixed to the corners with self-tapping screws on both sides for 3-4 holes.

Mounting GKL on the base

Begin sheathing from solid sheets or the largest pieces. They are fastened with self-tapping screws to the bars every 25-30 centimeters.

Facing

When sheathed with material on only one side, then the insulation is laid and the electrical wiring is pulled before installing the top layer.

During the installation of the other side, the insulation is laid as needed. It is better to do without pulling cables, but if they are still needed, they are placed in a special protective tube.

If the partition has a doorway, increase the number of posts and horizontal lintels.

Tips for beginners:

• When mounting the second side of the wall, move the sheet one step so that the structure is strong;
• To avoid problems during fastening, make sure that the joints of the gypsum plasterboard fall exactly in the middle of the vertical racks.

isolation

Sometimes it is impossible to do without additionally isolating the structure, especially if it is not just a decorative part of the interior. There is nothing complicated in this, it is enough to lay and fix the material.

Structural insulation

Suitable for this mineral wool, polystyrene foam or polystyrene. Rigid material is already attached to the inside of the lined partition.

Each material has both disadvantages and advantages, it all depends on what the room in which they are used is intended for.

Read also: Arrangement of an apartment building.

Working with irregularities

If suddenly the base is uneven, the unevenness should be identified with the help of a beam. For this:

• Lay a beam along the wall and draw a line from the outer edge;
• Vertically lean the rack wood beam, mark at regular intervals the location of the butt behind its exit on the floor.

It is important to install the frame evenly so that the whole structure comes out even.

If there are difficulties with plasterboard sheathing, the video will help:

Advantages of using GKL

This material has a number of advantages over other raw materials:

• low cost and assembly costs;
• little weight;
• fast installation;
• the best sound and heat insulation;
• the ability to use even in freezing rooms;
• wall alignment;
• installation of drywall does not need additional training basics;
• after installation, there is little debris and dust left.

If everything is done correctly, as final touch remains to be done decorative trim walls. And drywall constructions will last a long time and save a lot of time and money.

In contact with

20580 0 2

Drywall on a wooden frame: arguments and counter-arguments, restrictions and installation tips

When does it make sense to mount drywall sheet on the frame in general, and on the wooden one in particular? In what cases is it not advisable to use a wooden crate? How and from what it is correct to assemble a wooden frame for drywall? How to perform frame sheathing and puttying GKL? In my article I will try to answer these questions.

GKL against plaster

First, let's decide whether it is worth messing with drywall at all, or is it better to use plaster in the old fashioned way.

Here are the arguments in favor of the GKL:

• High finishing speed due to large sheet area (3 square meters with a size of 2500x1200 mm);
• Possibility with minimal cost eliminate significant irregularities in the base. Say, with a height difference between adjacent elements of a slab floor of 8-10 centimeters (yes, yes, this happens), it is very expensive and unsafe to level the ceiling with plaster: falling plaster of such thickness can cause a lot of trouble.

But for the GKL on the crate, the state of the surface under it does not matter - if only there was something to attach the frame to;

• The surface of kraft paper (gypsum core shell) has excellent adhesive properties. You can glue wallpaper of any density on it using any wallpaper glue; the tile is also perfectly glued to cement tile adhesive or home-made cement-based mortar.

Curious: for tiling the drywall over the bathroom, I used spot applied silicone sealant. It was also used to seal the joints between the tiles and adjoin the apron to the bath. All seams retain absolute tightness for three years of active use of the bathroom; The tiles are more than secure.

How does drywall compare to plaster?

1. mechanical strength. I will clarify: according to this parameter, gypsum sheet material second only to cement plaster. Using plasterboard for wall decoration in a gym or workshop is a dubious idea;
2. Water resistant at constant contact with her. Alas, even moisture resistant drywall tolerates only high humidity. It is worth immersing the gypsum core in water - and it will get wet just like any other gypsum product. Accordingly, there will be bad idea use GKL without protection with a waterproof fine finish for the construction of shower walls;
3. Occupied usable area rooms. Walls with minor irregularities in a small room are best leveled with a thin layer of plaster: after all, even glued directly to the wall, without a crate, a GKL sheet, taking into account the thickness of the glue, will shift the surface of each wall by at least 20 mm. When mounted on a frame, each wall will move to the center of the room already by 60 - 80 mm.

Frame against glue

When is it worth mounting drywall on the frame, and when is it better to glue it directly to the wall?

Everything is simple here: if the drops, blockages and curvilinearity of the base exceeds 40 - 50 millimeters, the frame is necessary. In other cases, glue is preferable: again, it will save room space.

There are, however, two more scenarios that will make you lean towards fastening the GKL along the crate:

1. Installation drywall partition. Here, comments seem to be not required: without a frame, its skin simply has nothing to attach to;
2. Laying behind the lining of the wall of communications - water supply, sewerage, electrical wiring, ventilation ducts, etc. Hiding them behind a false wall is much easier than ditching a main wall.

In some cases (for example, if we are talking about the panel partition inside the apartment) strobes of considerable width and depth are impossible in principle.

Tree versus profile

In what cases is it permissible to install drywall on a wooden frame, and when is a galvanized profile preferable?

The bar has the only advantage - cheapness. In order not to be unfounded, I will give the average prices for a bar and a profile for the Moscow region:

Next: wood, unlike galvanized steel, hygroscopic, and is also capable of change its linear dimensions and geometry depending on air humidity. On the practical side, this means that in a damp room, a wooden crate can warp and bend the wall cladding, or even lead to cracks along its seams.

Finally the tree subject to biological influences: it rots and becomes food for woodworms. Again, unlike galvanized.

1. Drywall wood frame can be used only in dry rooms. For a bathroom, kitchen or combined bathroom, you should prefer a galvanized profile;
2. The elements of the crate before assembling it must be to be treated with an antiseptic.

Loophole

There is, however, an easy way to bring wood closer to a galvanized profile in terms of performance. In order for it to completely lose its hygroscopicity and the ability to deform with fluctuations in humidity, the bar is enough impregnate with drying oil: the oils that make it up will fill the pores between the fibers in the outer layer of the tree, forming a water-impermeable shell during polymerization.

This operation has several subtleties:

• Drying oil is best applied heated in a water bath. Then it penetrates deeper into the fiber structure; accordingly, the waterproof coating will be more durable;

• It is easier not to cover the ends of a bar cut to size with drying oil with a brush, but to dip it into a jar with it. It is the ends, due to the orientation of the fibers perpendicular to the surface, that are most vulnerable to moisture;
• Drying oil dries for several days and has a strong characteristic odor. For drying the bar, it is better to allocate a separate room with good ventilation.

Material selection

What exactly is the frame for drywall made of wood made of?

It was not in vain that I cited a 50x50 mm bar as an example of the price of a crate: it is he who is the most popular material for assembling the frames of partitions and crates (ceiling and wall).

With special requirements for the rigidity of the partition, it can also be assembled from a bar 50x100; in this case, the wide side is oriented perpendicular to the plane of the wall: this is how maximum resistance to side loads is achieved.

Finally, when mounting the wall batten, edged and unedged board arbitrary width. It is attached to the main wall with long dowel screws or even nails in wooden choppers.

Are there any requirements for the quality of wood?

When assembling the frame or when installing the crate on suspensions - yes.

Wood should not have defects from the following list:

• Rot and damage by woodworms;
• Oblique layer (significant deviation of the direction of the wood fibers from the longitudinal axis of the bar);
• Falling knots with a diameter of more than a third of the side of the bar.

The instruction is connected with the fact that all these defects have a detrimental effect on the strength of the frame. In addition, the moisture content of the wood should not exceed 20%: when drying, the bar often warps.

Frame mounting rules

Partition

The assembly of the partition frame begins with marking the fastening lines of the upper and lower trim on the ceiling and on the floor, as well as the extreme racks on the adjacent walls. To keep the lines strictly in the same plane, use a plumb line.

Then, strapping bars and extreme racks are attached to the floor, ceiling and adjacent walls. A damper tape is laid under them, which excludes the transmission of acoustic vibrations to the capital structures of the building and thereby contributes to sound insulation. For fastening the strapping and racks to the walls can be used anchor bolts or ordinary dowel-screws.

The next step is the installation of racks. The step between them is determined by the requirements for the rigidity of the partition and is 40 or 60 centimeters. The width of the sheet (120 cm) must be a multiple of this step so that the seam between adjacent sheets falls exactly in the middle of the rack.

The edges of adjacent sheets, if possible, should be attached to a common element of the frame or crate for them. In this case, the likelihood of cracks at the seams is minimal.

Connections of racks with strappings do not experience significant operational loads - they are taken over by the lining of the partition, drywall, therefore, any methods of fastening the racks are acceptable:

• Hammered or angled nails or self-tapping screws;
• An insert from a trimming bar, which is attached to the harness, after which the rack is attracted to it;

• Galvanized perforated lining;
• Furniture corners;
• Insert racks half a tree with landing on glue. However, it is not suitable for frame elements impregnated with drying oil: impregnation reduces the adhesive qualities of the adhesive.

For gluing dry wood, you can use both specialized wood glues and ordinary PVA construction glue. For our purposes, the strength of its seam is quite sufficient; drying glue takes no more than 12 hours.

How to install a door in a wooden frame partition?

1. In the lower trim, a pass is made for the width of the door with the box;
2. The door leaf is wedged in the box with wooden wedges. The goal is to leave gaps after installation that do not allow the door to overwrite jambs;
3. From one of the edges of the doorway, a rack adjacent to the box is mounted;
4. A strip is applied to the outer surface of the box polyurethane foam, after which it is attracted by self-tapping screws to the rack. Self-tapping screws are screwed in from the side of the rack, their length is selected so that they go deep into the box, but do not go through it;
5. On the second side of the opening, the second rack is mounted in the same way;
6. From above, the racks are connected by a jumper;
7. All connections of racks with strapping are reinforced with galvanized lining on self-tapping screws.

A light window (for example, in the wall of a bathroom) is installed in a similar way - adjusted for the fact that its frame rests on a horizontal jumper between the uprights.

Lathing on hangers

How to assemble a wooden crate for wall cladding with significant irregularities with drywall with your own hands?

1. The assembly of the frame in this case also begins with the attachment to the floor and ceiling of the lower and upper trims. A damper tape is also placed under them. The method of attaching the harnesses is the same as in the scenario discussed above;
2. Then, extreme racks are attached to the adjacent walls through the damper flight;
3. On the main wall, strictly vertically, along the plumb line, the positions of the intermediate racks are marked (I remind you, in increments of 40 or 60 cm from center to center of the bar);
4. Along each rack with a step of 80 cm, direct suspensions are fastened with dowel-screws;
5. The racks are set according to the markings, after which the ears of the suspensions are screwed to them with wood screws 25 mm long. The free part of the ears is bent to the wall. The frame is ready for sheathing.

Lathing on gaskets

With a relatively small curvilinearity of the wall, the crate can be attached to it without hangers, using spacers from scraps of wood or plywood. In this case, as I mentioned above, you can use not only a bar, but also an unedged board.

If necessary, lumber of any width can be cut into narrow boards or a bar with a conventional hand-held circular saw with a guide frame. Sawing one board takes no more than two to three minutes.

The crate is attached to the main wall with long dowel screws or nails into pre-drilled holes with wooden chopsticks. Bottom trim as such is absent; instead of it, short bars are drawn into the gap between the racks of the crate to the floor and ceiling, which will later serve to fasten the plinth and baguette.

Ceiling

The frame of a simple single-level flow is mounted in the same way as a crate on direct suspensions - adjusted for location in a horizontal plane. Thick (at least 15 mm) plywood is used to create a frame for the curved elements of a multilevel flow; when sheathing, the GKL is attracted by self-tapping screws to its end.

sheathing

How to mount drywall on a wooden frame?

Used for wall cladding wall drywall 12.5 mm thick. The ceiling is usually sheathed with ceiling plasterboard 9.5 mm thick. In dry rooms, ordinary GKL (white) is used, in wet rooms - moisture resistant (blue).

Let me remind you once again: in rooms with high humidity, the wooden frame must be consistently impregnated with an antiseptic and drying oil.

To fasten the sheet, wood screws 32 mm long are used. The length of the self-tapping screws exceeds that used when mounting on a profile. The step between adjacent attachment points is 15-20 centimeters; average consumption fasteners - 100 screws per sheet measuring 2500x1200.

When installing additional sheets (if the height of the wall exceeds the length of the sheet), an additional bar is laid under the seam perpendicular to the uprights. Instead, you can use a piece of board or thick (from 12 mm) plywood. The main thing is that the edges of adjacent sheets are attached to common element frame.

Where a wall or partition does not experience deforming loads (for example, under the ceiling), you can do without laying a bar under the transverse seam. In his absence, it is especially important to correctly perform the reinforcement, which I will talk about a little later.

In rooms with high traffic or with expected significant loads on the walls (kitchen, hallway, etc.), it is better to sheathe the frame in two layers. GKL of the first layer is fastened with self-tapping screws 32 mm long; fastener consumption - 20-30 self-tapping screws per full-size sheet. The second layer of GKL is mounted with dressing of horizontal and vertical seams; for fastening, wood screws 45 mm long are used at the rate of 100 pieces per sheet.

How to cut drywall to the desired size?

• Curvilinear parts are cut with an electric jigsaw with a wood file. GKL is cut by him very quickly and without any effort, but when cutting, a huge amount of gypsum dust rises into the air. It settles on all surfaces in the room. Gypsum is especially destructive for the bearings of cooling systems for computers and laptops, so for the duration of the repair they must be kept turned off and covered with polyethylene;

• Along the straight lines of the GKL are incised sharp knife along the ruler a quarter of the thickness, after which they break on the edge of the table or any other suitable elevation.

After installation, the seams between the sheets cut to size are embroidered: a chamfer is sharply removed from the edges at an angle of 45 degrees to half the thickness of the sheet.

Reinforcement and puttying

A drywall sheathed wall or partition is not yet ready for fine finish: caps of self-tapping screws and seams between sheets must be hidden with putty. In addition, the seams and outer corners of the walls need reinforcement and reinforcement.

Traditionally used for reinforcing seams sickle- self-adhesive fiberglass mesh with a cell size of about 2 millimeters. It is glued along the seam, after which it is filled with putty directly through the mesh cells. It is necessary to putty at least twice: gypsum putty gives a small, but quite noticeable shrinkage during drying.

External corners are reinforced:

• Galvanized perforated corner profile;
• Plastic profile with mesh.

The corner is recessed in the putty applied to the corner, after which it is covered with another layer of it.

However: I prefer to use a decorative plastic corner pasted after puttying and painting on silicone sealant to protect the corners.

In the photo - the corner of the partition, protected by a decorative plastic corner.

What putty to use to level the surface?

Most common in Russia gypsum putties production German company Knauf - HP Finish and Fugen. However, I liked the cheaper and less common ABS Saten: the mixture lives noticeably longer (at least 45 minutes versus 25-30 for Knauf products), if necessary, can be diluted with water (which increases its life time to an hour or more) and does not give lumps when mixed.

How to prepare putty?

1. Water at the rate of 1 liter per 1.6 kg dry gypsum mixture poured into a wide bowl (I use a plastic paint bucket);
2. The mixture is poured into water, distributing as evenly as possible over its surface;
3. After 3-5 minutes, the swollen putty is mixed - manually (with a spatula) or with a mixer nozzle for a drill.

How and how to properly putty the seams, corners and caps of self-tapping screws?

• Hats are covered with two movements of a spatula 10-12 cm wide crosswise. The first sliding movement fills the recess with putty, the second ("to strip") removes its excess;
• The seams are also filled with cruciform movements of the same spatula. In this case, the seam is filled with putty as tightly as possible. Cavities in it increase the likelihood of cracks. With the second pass, the seam, together with the sickle reinforcing it, is covered with longitudinal movements of the spatula 30–35 cm wide;

• For alignment of external and internal corners it is better to use special corner spatulas.

After filling the seams and masking the caps of the GKL fasteners, they often putty over the entire area. A layer of putty about a millimeter thick completely masks the seams and does not allow the base to shine through the painting.

Next stage - grinding. GCR is ground with grids No. 80 in the first pass and No. 120 - 160 in the second pass. It is better to grind in bright oblique lighting, which will emphasize the slightest irregularities due to the shadows they cast. I use an inexpensive vibratory sander for grinding.

By the way: if necessary, intermediate grinding can be performed after filling the seams and sealing the screws. Its necessity is determined only by the state of the surface.

The smooth surface of the GKL is dedusted (I clean it of dust with an ordinary whisk) and primed with a penetrating acrylic primer. The primer will stick the remaining dust and improve the adhesion between the surface of the drywall and the finishing coat - paint or wallpaper.

Wallpaper can be glued immediately after the soil has dried, but painting will have to wait at least two weeks after puttying. If you hurry, the seams will show through any number of layers of paint due to moisture that has not completely evaporated.

Conclusion

I sincerely hope that I was able to answer all the questions that the dear reader has accumulated. As usual, Additional information your attention will be offered a video in this article. Feel free to share in the comments own experience. Good luck, comrades!

September 28, 2016

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Despite the fact that at present there is a method of mounting drywall on a frame made of metal profile, many prefer to mount this finish on a wooden crate.

Preferred if you need to mount single-level ceiling or just wall up. This method is cheaper, dried in a chamber does not deform, perfectly withstands such a load and is able to reliably serve for many years. In addition, such installation is simple, and it is chosen by those who lead the plasterboard sheathing on their own.

Installation of a rack frame for a false ceiling

• 1 Preparatory work.

  Before the beginning installation work visually determined by the most low point ceiling. Its design position is marked from it: 5 cm retreat, and with the help of a level, a horizontal line is drawn around the perimeter. If the work is done correctly, then the start and end points should match. A rail is attached along this horizontal with the help of self-tapping screws around the entire perimeter.

• 2 Installation of longitudinal rails.

  Next, you need prepare longitudinal slats for the crate. The profile is chosen from 30 * 40 to 50 * 70 cm. The finished length of each should be 1 cm less than the length of the ceiling. They are screwed with self-tapping screws at an equal distance from each other. Possible curvature of the ceiling surface is eliminated either by squeezing the rail, or small pieces are placed in the depressions thick cardboard. Longitudinal rails are fastened with self-tapping screws to the ceiling surface.

• 3 Lathing installation.

  For wooden framing choose slats dried in a special drying chamber. This completely eliminates the possibility of their deformation. It must be remembered that the raw material, when dried, can lead to the loss of self-tapping screws from the body of the wood. If the material good quality, That slats are fixed in increments of 50 to 70 cm. For regions with humid climate or if there is insufficient ventilation in the room, step is better to reduce to 40cm. It is not worth saving on self-tapping screws. In any case, reliable fastening of the frame rails to the ceiling will provide you with a long and trouble-free operation of the structure in the future.

• 4 Installation of longitudinal rails for connecting drywall sheets.

  Suitable size for work - 25 * 80 mm. The sheet fits comfortably on the wide side. In addition, it guarantees the reliability of the installation. It is necessary to mark the future location of the rails in such a way that the joint of the drywall sheets falls in their middle. After that, the electrical cables are laid and the installation of drywall begins.

With us you can install drywall only from high-quality lumber. It has undergone special drying in chambers, so its surface is dense with the required moisture level of 12-14%. The rails do not deform and easily withstand loads in quality load-bearing frame. Perform installation on wooden slats simple, reliable and fast.

Working with us, you get the opportunity to purchase excellent goods at the lowest price and repair your home at no extra cost.