Laying tiles on the wall with your own hands: detailed step-by-step instructions. How to lay tiles in the bathroom - step by step instructions for laying
Lay tiles on the wall. This process requires your maximum attention and accuracy, otherwise the tile, which ideally should look beautiful and organic on the wall, will go wrong - at random and the work you have done will go down the drain.
So, you have already chosen a tile, decided in which room you will lay it, let's go further ...
Materials and tools
Before we begin to deal with the question "how to lay tiles on the wall" let's decide on the materials and tools necessary for laying tiles was carried out as professionally and efficiently as possible, even if you are going to lay the tiles with your own hands.
For laying tiles, we need first of all:
- - tile adhesive,;
- a bucket in order to dilute this glue;
- a special notched trowel;
- building level - ,
- ruler,
You can try laying tiles and not on flat wall, but in this case, no one will guarantee that everything will work out for you and the tile will look beautiful. Experienced craftsmen it is still advised to level the wall before laying.
Also, many advise soaking the tiles in water for a couple of hours before laying, which ensures the best adhesion to the base. I don't know if this is true, I haven't checked. I do not soak the tiles and the result is quite good. I know for sure: it will not get worse.
There are three types of laying tiles: “seam to seam”, “to dressing” and diagonally. In the first case, the tiles are simply laid out one after the other horizontally and vertically. When laying the tiles "in the dressing", each higher row is shifted horizontally by half of the tile so that its middle is exactly above the seam separating the ceramic tiles of the lower row.
The method of laying ceramic tiles diagonally is the most complex and time-consuming, you will have to cut a lot. But it looks the most original.
Preparing the base for laying
Direct laying process
How to cut tiles?
When we reach the other end of the wall from the corner, it is likely that we will have to cut the tiles. How to cut?
You can use a simple glass cutter. We draw them several times along the line, which must first be marked with a pencil. Then, putting on the table or any flat surface along the edge of the cut, hit the side that is in the air with the palm of your hand.
This method is not very effective, as it is often difficult to break a tile if it is thick or if it does not break along the cut.
In order to cut tiles, I use a special tool - a tile cutter.
It's pretty easy to use. Again, you need to mark the cut line with a pencil and put the tile in the tile cutter, draw it along the line from the bottom up, and then press the bar on the tile at the top and that's it. A tile cutter can be purchased at any hardware store. Its price is from 1000 rubles.
Also, a grinder is useful for cutting tiles. This is if you need not just cut the tile in half, but cut out the shape, for example, of a switch.
- Firstly, always cut with a tolerance of a couple of mm, since the switch and the same socket are collapsible and you then attach the top cover directly to the tile, which looks much better than if you have a gap between the socket and the tile.
Well, and secondly, pick up a special circle for the tile for the grinder. Not everyone will fit. There is no grinder, take a neighbor or a friend for a while. Further, if you want to drill holes in the tile, suppose under the wires, use a drill, just pick up the drill again under the tile.
If you need to cut the edge of a tile half a centimeter wide, that is, small sizes, then draw a line with a glass cutter and chip off the edge using pliers or pliers.
So, the first row is ready. At the end of the wall, also hide it in a special corner, especially if you had to cut the tiles.
And so sequentially one after another we lay out the rows of tiles on the wall one after the other vertically.
The main thing is not to forget to insert crosses between the tiles and check whether they lie on the same line with each other, otherwise, after grouting the joints, the masonry will look ugly.
You can also check the evenness of the tile by applying a level bar or level to the entire row and see if there are any gaps.
That's all wisdom. After the masonry has dried (about a day), you can remove your guides, which held the base of the masonry. The tile won't slide down.
We overwrite the seams
It is also already possible, by removing all the crosses that you inserted between the tiles, to start grouting.
To do this, we take a special grout to match the color of the tile, dilute it with water to a homogeneous mass (not liquid and not very thick) and rubber spatula evenly and firmly rub into the seams.
After that, you can wipe the tile with a damp (not wet) sponge.
Wait a few minutes and after the grout dries a little, take a piece of wire or cable a little wider than the distance between the tiles and push it through all the gaps with pressure. The grout will push in and level out, which will look much prettier.
And finally, a video from Alexander Tarasov. Everything is accessible and understandable…
Like he said everything. If I forgot something, then it's not important enough to mention here. Good luck.
Was this article helpful to you? Subscribe to site updates to receive the latest articles on renovation and interior design before anyone else!
Each of us has a moment in life when, after evaluating the interior of such important rooms in the house as a bathroom, toilet or kitchen, we have to conclude that it is time to make repairs. Of course, this horrifies many millet, but is it as problematic as it seems at first? Of course, the cost of the event called "Repair" is immediately frightening, but in this case emotions should be put aside, but you just need to take a calculator and roughly calculate the upcoming expenses. And if the amount received seems too scary, then you need to think about how to reduce it. For example, a lot of work can be done independently, even those that have never been done before. And as a result, the planned repair costs can be reduced by 30 percent, or even halved. And if you don’t know how to lay tiles on the wall when facing surfaces, then read this article to the end, we guarantee you will not have unsolvable questions.
Laying tiles on the wall - video instruction
Alignment of walls for tiles - surface preparation
In fact, everything is not so difficult - preparing the walls for laying tiles does not require serious professional skills. If a bathroom is taken into development, then we remove the old plumbing and arm ourselves with a hammer and a chisel - it is necessary to knock down the old tile. Of course, we must not forget about the safety of performing such work, therefore, we are taking certain measures:
After all the tiles are removed from the surface of the walls, we get rid of the remnants of the tile adhesive with the same chisel. It should be noted that this work refers to the initial stage of surface preparation.
Attention! It is important to learn that laying tiles on the wall will be done correctly if the surface is well prepared beforehand - 80% of success belongs to a flat surface.
The verticality of the walls and the correctness of the angles
So, we need a perfectly flat wall surface, how to make it so? First, we determine the quality of the plaster. If its main ingredients are sand and cement, and in some places it is swollen and disappears, then again you will have to use a chisel and a hammer. There's nothing you can do to clean the surface before brickwork. If the resulting wall area is strong enough, then you can begin to determine the geometric parameters.
For measurements, you will need a plumb line, which, in fact, is a simple device consisting of a heavy weight attached to a cord. We use the body kit to check the verticality of the walls. This procedure is performed as follows: the cord is unwound to the height of the room and fixed under the ceiling close to the wall - we determine how far the wall goes to the side. In the case when the deviations exceed a few millimeters, then it will not be possible to do without leveling the wall surface by plastering.
Attention! In no case should you think that you can do without leveling the walls. The principle “and so it will do” in this situation is categorically unacceptable.
A tile is not a wallpaper and a littered corner simply cannot be pulled out in the right direction. If you skip the stage of leveling the walls, then after laying a whole row of tiles to the ceiling, at the exit you can find that a gap of several centimeters wide has formed, and you can’t close this with anything.
The next operation is to measure the mutual perpendicularity of all walls. If the angle is not equal to the cherished 90 0, then you will also have to plaster. Here, perhaps, it is worth explaining the importance of this circumstance. The thing is that if in the corner it is supposed to stand washing machine, then there will be no special problems, although one side of it will be closely adjacent to the wall, and the other will stand at a decent distance. But if a bathroom is located in a crooked corner according to the project, then a gap will form that will constantly let water through.
Now it remains to check the walls for the presence of concavities and bulges. Here you need to use the water level. It is very important that it be at least 1 m long. If as a result minor deviations are found (a couple of millimeters per 1 running meter), then it is also better to get away from them by leveling the surface.
Note! You can not ignore the floor - irregularities are unacceptable. Yes, and horizontal is also worth finding out with the help of a level. If it is found that the floor is falling to one side, then if it is not leveled, this will lead to a large gap between the wall and floor tiles, and this is at least unaesthetic.
Wall alignment
To do this job, you will need the following set of tools:
If the preparation of walls for tiles will be carried out using sand- cement mortar, then he pounces on small plot walls and using a grater in a circular motion disperses it until an even layer is obtained. If a solution based on special ready-made dry mixes is used as a working material, then with a large spatula we simply apply it to an area equal to the length of the spatula. And then, slightly pressing, we stretch along the surface of the wall. The result should also be a uniform layer. In the process, do not forget to control the evenness of the wall with a water level.
floor leveling
We purchase materials
Naturally, before you go to the store for tiles, you need to measure the room and decide what area is to be finished. When choosing a tile, it is worth considering the fact that there are 2 types of it: floor and wall. Even a non-specialist with a visual inspection can easily determine this difference. Floor tiles are stronger and have a rougher top surface.
Important! When choosing a tile, it is better to give preference to the material of the 1st grade, since the tile of the 2nd-3rd grades may have a heterogeneity in color and other minor defects.
When purchasing a tile, it is worth buying it with a margin, because during the laying process, individual elements can be broken, cut incorrectly, etc. And later buying a small amount of tiles can be problematic - it simply may not be in stores. Immediately with tiles need to buy decorative tiles with a pattern, borders and other interior details. Wall cladding with ceramic tiles involves the use of special adhesive dry building mixtures prepared according to the manufacturer's instructions. In this case we are talking about mixtures specially designed for laying tiles. Also, when choosing, pay attention to the fact that for rooms with high humidity(for example, a bathroom) one type of mixture is suitable, and a mixture for outdoor use is intended for wall cladding on the street. Do not forget to find out the maximum allowable layer thickness, it is also indicated on the package. With a very limited budget, tiles can be laid using the "grandfather" mortar - on cement with sand.
For facing works it is important to make the correct calculation of the tiles. On the example of a bathroom, we will help to make correct calculations: .
Tile laying technology
The beginning of laying tiles on the wall begins with the preparation of glue. A dry mixture is added in small portions to a certain amount of water and mixed with a pre-prepared mixer. The result is a composition of medium density: not too liquid - so as not to float along the wall, not too thick - so that it is not difficult to stretch it over the surface.
Now you can start styling. The work is carried out in the direction from the bottom up, that is, the first row is laid out on the floor. And then one by one, and so on for each wall and up to the ceiling. To get strictly even rows a rail is placed on the floor, which is leveled. Just the first row lies on this rail. In order for the next rows to lie evenly and beautifully, slats are vertically nailed in the corners, which are aligned with a plumb line. At the level of the 2nd row and above, in subsequent rows, nails are stuffed onto the slats, between which a nylon thread is pulled. This will allow you to lay the rows of tiles strictly horizontally.
We apply adhesive on the tile with a notched trowel and apply it to the wall surface. We slightly press down its tile and make sure that the solution is evenly distributed over its surface. The same manipulation is carried out with the next tile, and then crosses are inserted between them. It is recommended to leave a seam with a thickness of 2-4 mm. Such a trowel is not only decorative feature, but it also has practical implications. It will not allow the tile to remain cracked or chip off the wall surface during thermal expansion. The quality of the masonry is constantly monitored by the level, and if a whole number of tiles does not fit in a row, then we adjust the dimensions using a plikorez. The final stage of laying tiles on the wall is to grout the joints by applying a fugue with a rubber spatula. Next, the surface is cleaned and on this the process of laying tiles can be considered completed.
We hope that the whole process of laying tiles is described in an accessible and understandable way. And the question of how to put tiles on the wall no longer causes fear and skepticism. If you have any doubts, we recommend that you watch a training video that will help you fully understand the information received. As the reviews of visitors to our site show, most of them managed to clad the premises in their homes with their own hands. You will get it too - no doubt!
Often, those who decide to lay the tiles on their own do not think about which side to start laying the tiles. And this is a very important point.
Experienced craftsmen know that if you start laying tiles in the bathroom or kitchen correctly, then less material will be needed, which means less finance will be spent. It will also reduce the time for laying tiles and the design in the bathroom or toilet will look better.
By by and large The question: “Where should I start laying tiles” does not have a definite answer. But there are several points by which the master determines which side to start laying tiles.
First you need to decide on the sequence of laying tiles in the bathroom or kitchen. It is advised to start laying tiles from the walls, and not from the floor, because. during work, the material with which the tiler works may fall from the walls and the new tile on the floor will be damaged. Another reason why laying should start from the walls is the drying time of the tiles. In order for the tile adhesive to fully set, you must wait from several days to a week. This time will have to stop repair work in the bathroom or toilet, and this is extra time.
Laying scheme
Before you start laying tiles in a bathroom or toilet, you need to decide on the location of the tiles. To do this, draw a design on paper and make the necessary calculations.
Next, you should make even markings on the wall, moving the tile from top to bottom without mortar. It is necessary to mark the position of each tile, thereby determining the future position of the tile. The bottom row will correctly be laid last of the chopped pieces.
How to lay tiles on walls
They begin to lay tiles on the walls from the corner that first catches your eye when you enter the room, usually this is the opposite wall from front door. On the second row marked with a thread or level, you need to attach a rail to the wall, making sure that it stands level. Then you can start laying tiles on the wall.
To avoid slipping tiles, you can lay out no more than two rows at a time. You can lay two rows of tiles on each wall and so on in a circle. While the row will be laid on one wall, on the other it will already dry out. You need to start facing with whole elements, and the lower rows can be laid from damaged ones.
If a novice tiler wants to lay first one wall after another, we can safely say that nothing will work out - the tiles in the corners will not converge, and the seams will fluctuate from 3 mm to 3 cm, which looks very ugly.
It should also be noted that if there are external corners in the kitchen or bathroom, then the tiling takes place precisely from them, since it will not work to finish the row with damaged tiles on the outer corner.
The bottom row should be placed last. Most often, when laying the bottom row, the tiles have to be cut. This is done with a special tool - a tile cutter.
Between each row of tiles in the bathroom or kitchen, you need to put crosses - special accessories for working with tiles.
In case on finished work glue is accidentally spilled, it should be immediately removed from the tile to avoid solidification. After the laid tiles in the toilet or bathroom are completely dry, the entire lining should be wiped first with a damp cloth and then dry. After that, you can start grouting the seams.
Drawing on the wall
It should also be noted that if the owner is going to lay out a certain pattern in the toilet, then you need to start laying the tiles from the center of the image. If this is not done, then the drawing may end up in the direction of the wall.
To determine the center of the wall in the kitchen or in the toilet, you need to set the diagonals with a cord, where the diagonals will intersect, there is the center of the wall.
You should start laying tiles from the center of the image and continue the row in one direction and the other from the center. After the central row is laid out, it will become clear where to go next and the work will go faster.
Laying tiles on the floor
Where to start laying tiles on the floor in the toilet?
- There are three options with which experienced tilers begin to lay tiles on the floor. Laying takes place from the farthest corner opposite the door. This standard way, which is suitable for laying tiles in the kitchen, but if in the bathroom this corner is closed by a shower, then there is no point in using this method.
- Masonry from the threshold at the door. In this case, laying the tiles starts from the corner that is closest to the door. This method is used most often because opposite side usually located plumbing.
- Laying from the center of the room. Four tiles are laid in the center of the room, from which the laying of the floor continues.
There is one easy way to determine which of the three options to use. You should measure the length of the row and divide the result by the width of the tile. If the resulting balance is less than half, then you should start laying the floor with tiles from the beginning of the row. This method not only saves material, but the layout looks neater.
Before starting work, the floor is thoroughly cleaned and leveled. Next, you should create a waterproofing trough that will protect the floor from various kinds of leaks. To do this, use waterproofing - liquid or roll. over insulating layer primed to increase adhesion of tile adhesive.
Grouting
You can grout the seams after the lining is completely dry. All crosses should be removed and you can start grouting.
The grout is matched to the color of the tile, diluted in water to a homogeneous mass and evenly applied with a rubber spatula between the joints.
After some of the seams are rubbed, it is necessary to wipe them with a slightly damp sponge so that the seams are smooth and beautiful.
Saving
Many people think about how to save money during repairs. The first thing you do not need to save on is the quality of the tile, as in the future this saving can cost even more.
You can not lay tiles where it will not be visible, for example, on the walls where plumbing fixtures will be installed. Only at the same time, you need to remember that the walls will need additional protection from moisture - be sure to plaster, prime, and possibly also paint.
Also, you can not lay tiles under the bath, especially if the entire space under the bath is covered with a screen. The floor, where there will be no tiles, should also be protected from moisture.
Every day more and more new ones appear on the shelves of construction stores. finishing materials. But when it comes to bathroom remodeling, there isn't much to choose from. For many years, tiles have held the palm here. True, the manufacturers of this material are doing everything possible to ensure that the consumer does not feel limited in choice.
The variety of textures, colors, shapes and sizes of tiles is so great that sometimes “eyes run wide”. Yes, and decide how to lay tiles in the bathroom - horizontally divide the walls with decor, lay out everything with the same tiles or come up with your own original design– is also not easy. So, taking self repair bathroom, be prepared to visit the store more than once.
Color, pattern, texture
Of course, various flowers and patterns are a matter of taste, but even abstract drawings in the form of lines are no longer in trend today. If you want to get really trendy and stylish interior, focus on decor that imitates stone, wood, concrete, leather and others natural materials. In this case, you should refuse to lay tiles of different tone along complex scheme as geometric shapes, stripes, etc. We decided to imitate a natural texture, so do it according to the rules. And they say that to connect the finish with different shades possible only for inside corners. In addition, materials of different tone must be separated from each other. You can do this by pushing or pushing the planes on which the tiles will be applied. different color and invoices.
Imitation tiles natural materials requires a skillful approach to the organization of space
Size and type
The ideal option in terms of design is a large-format tile with a rectified (edged) edge. When laying, you will get a minimum number of seams that will be almost invisible - this decor will always look elegant and modern. At the same time, do not forget to correlate the size of the tile with the dimensions of the room, choosing the option that will require minimal trimming.
Shiny or rough
The eternal dispute about which tile is better - matte or glossy, in the bathroom is clearly resolved in favor of a rough material. Having a velvety texture, matte tiles do not collect prints and traces of water. In addition, in a room that should set in a peaceful mood, it is not entirely appropriate to use a finish that will glare from any light source. And finally, the last argument concerns security. Even if you are a fierce supporter of glossy surfaces, still lay rough porcelain stoneware on the floor - it will not slip, even when completely wet. And leave the options with a smooth, large-sized mirror tile for shopping centers- there it will be more appropriate.
Due to glare and reflections, the dignity of color and texture of even the highest quality and most expensive finishing material is lost.
Grout
Never use tile grout that contains cement as a binder in the bathroom. Of course, its cost is not comparable to two-component epoxy-based materials, but over time you will be able to appreciate the beauty of the latter option. Unlike cheaper grout, the polyester compound does not change color, repels moisture and is not affected by fungi, chemicals and other harmful factors. Remember that the color of the seams is chosen by yourself dark shade on ceramic tiles.
How to correctly calculate the number of tiles
Hardware store salespeople are used to the sight of confused customers who don't really know what they need. Even after choosing a tile, such people often cannot calculate exactly how much of it is needed. If the design of the bathroom involves a combination of several colors or tiles different size, the calculation of the required amount turns into flour.
In the end, unfortunate builders buy tiles, and after a while they return in order to return the leftovers or buy the missing 0.5 m2. And if the acceptance of leftovers in large stores is usually practiced, then problems may arise with the purchase of the missing material. It may turn out that this batch of goods has already been sold, but the store does not plan to order another one, or the shade of the new batch of tiles does not match the previous one. In the store, you will not notice this, but at home on the wall, such a difference will be very striking.
Price quality tiles quite high, so you should not buy it "by eye". It is necessary to make an accurate calculation and only then go shopping.
To avoid all these troubles when choosing a tile, follow this algorithm. First, take measurements of the walls and floor of the bathroom, taking into account the location of the bathtub and the “moidodyr”. Then go to the store, choose a tile and be sure to ask the seller if there is enough of this particular product for you. If there is, be sure to write down the size of the tile and the direction of the pattern on the decors.
Now go home and do the math. On a sheet of squared paper, draw an expanded plan of your bathroom (each wall separately), while respecting the scale. Now apply the contours of the tiles to the walls.
The height and width of the wall is rarely a multiple of the size of the tile, which means that it will have to be cut. It is on the plan that it is easiest to determine the places where the cut tiles will be the least noticeable. In addition, an accurate calculation will allow you to significantly reduce the number of trims. When the plan is ready, count the required number of tiles of different colors. In order not to be mistaken, make the calculation not in square meters, but in the number of tiles.
Now you can return to the store and buy material, but do not forget that in addition to the tile, you will also need glue for it. If your bathroom is being renovated by a hired worker, they will tell you which adhesive to purchase. If your plans include self-tiling in the bathroom, consult with the seller.
It is important to note that the choice of tile adhesive is quite wide, and if your bathroom does not have any special conditions, it will be enough to purchase a mixture of CM11. This glue has been used for many years, which makes it possible to speak about its quality. And the price, in comparison with other compositions, is quite democratic.
Room preparation
Tile selected and purchased. Now you need to prepare the room for its installation. First, take out the furniture, then turn off the cold and hot water supply valves.
After that, dismantle the plumbing. If you do not plan to change the toilet and washbasin, you need to remove them very carefully so as not to damage them.
Removing old tiles
If the walls are lined with old tiles, they must be removed. The best assistant in this process will be a puncher. It is enough to set it to impact mode and bring it under the bottom edge of one of the tiles. Before starting work, be sure to put on goggles and gloves - this will save you from sharp shards of tiles. For the convenience of work, one of the lower tiles can be beaten off manually, using a chisel.
In some places, the old coating will fall off in large layers along with glue and plaster. Don't try to avoid it. Doesn't matter old mortar will have to be removed.
Preliminary leveling of walls
When the wall is completely cleaned and you see a durable dry coating, it is necessary to measure its geometric parameters. We use a plumb line, a water level and a square for this. You need to do the following:
- Plumb determine the deviation of the wall from the vertical
- We measure angles with a square, each of which should be 90 degrees.
If the walls in your bathroom turned out to be smooth, you are in luck. Otherwise, before laying the tiles in the bathroom, it is necessary to take a number of measures to level them. It must be said that brick or concrete walls in our apartments they are even so rarely that the probability of such luck is very small.
So, let's get to work. You will need:
- Plaster beacons
- The composition for their fastening (you can use a solution for plaster)
- Container for mixing solution
- Perforator with mixer attachment
- Rule - any flat board or metal profile
- Trowel or plastering bucket and spatula
If the wall is not strong enough, it is best to pre-prime it before leveling and before tiling the bathroom. When the soil is dry, we attach beacons to the wall.
We apply adhesive in several places, apply a beacon and, until the glue is dry, set it to level. Then we install the next beacon. Be sure to ensure that the beacons are in the same vertical plane. You can do this with a rule.
Installation of beacons for leveling walls
When all beacons are installed, the gaps between them and the wall must be filled with mortar. This must be done carefully so as not to move the guides and so that there are no sags on their surface. The glue under the guides has dried up - it's time to prepare the solution and get to work.
To level the walls in the bathroom, you can use ordinary cement mortar, but for strength and fluidity, it is recommended to replace one part of the cement in it with one part of tile adhesive.
With the help of a trowel or a plaster ladle, he throws the mortar onto the wall. This must be done in short sharp movements. Professionals start at the top, but if you can't, you can start at the bottom. When the space between the guides is filled by 1-1.5 m, we take the rule, apply it to the beacons and remove all unnecessary.
Do not press too hard on the guides, it is better to make short zigzag movements. We return the excess solution to the common container and continue to work until all the gaps between the beacons are filled.
Alignment of walls with lighthouses
If during the work you had some difficulties and irregularities remained on the walls, after the mortar dries a little, you can remove them with a trowel. To do this, it is enough to apply a little solution to an uneven place and remove the defect with a circular motion with a trowel.
After drying, the walls are ready for finishing.
Before laying the tiles in the bathroom, it is necessary to level not only the walls, but also the floor. This can be done using beacons or a self-leveling mixture. Using the second method is much easier, but more expensive.
First you need to mark up your floor and understand whether it needs to be leveled at all. The easiest way to do this is with laser level. It is enough to install it in one of the corners of the room and measure the distance from the laser marks on the walls to the floor. If this distance is the same or the deviation does not exceed 5 mm, pre-alignment can be dispensed with. Such curvature is quite simple to eliminate already in the process of laying the tiles.
Leveling the floor with a self-levelling compound
If there is no laser level, you will have to tinker.
Visually identify the highest corner in the room. From it, using the usual mounting level, draw a horizontal line along the wall. Then extend in a circle to all the walls of the bathroom, constantly using the level.
In the center of the room between opposite walls pull the two pieces of rope so that they intersect in the center. If the rope does not touch the floor anywhere and the distance from the highest point of the floor to the mark on the walls does not exceed 2 cm, then this line will become the new level of your floor. If the rope touches the floor in one or more places, raise it a couple of centimeters and mark the walls at this level.
Now you can start installing beacons. This is done in the same way as on the walls, only it is necessary to constantly ensure that the guides are set at the markup level. You can check their location with a long level or a rule. Set a rule between the marks on the walls and make sure the beacons touch it. All further actions do the same as on the walls.
Ceramic tile laying options: pros and cons
Existing layout schemes allow emphasizing the advantages of ceramic coating and making the most advantageous use of the geometric features of the room. Consider the most common laying schemes, and also evaluate their applicability in practice.
direct way
The simplest, lightest and economical option- when the tiles are laid in even rows, which are parallel to the line of walls and floor. In this case, you can use both square and rectangular tiles. The latter is best positioned in such a way as to visually expand the space.
The ease of laying tiles in a direct way contributes to the popularity of this scheme among beginners.
Off the beaten path
The pattern of laying ceramic tiles in a row resembles a pattern of brickwork, in which each subsequent row is shifted relative to the previous one by half of the structural element. This option looks especially advantageous when using a rectangular tile with an aspect ratio of 2: 1. The advantages of this method are the same as with direct layout, but there is also a disadvantage in the form of an increase in the amount of waste.
Staggered laying is well suited for rectangular tiles, which are called "boar" - with it, it most closely resembles brickwork
Diagonal
When laying diagonally, the tile rows are located at an angle of 45 degrees to the line of contact between the walls and the floor. A very effective, but also more complex method of installation is good on large surfaces - where the eyes can capture a wider panorama of the intersections of diagonal lines. But in a limited space, this method should not be used, since it visually reduces the room. The disadvantages of the method include the complexity and laboriousness caused by the need to trim the material. The latter also affects the cost, since diagonal laying is the leader in the amount of waste.
Diagonal laying requires skill from the tiler, so it is not easy for beginners to cope with such a scheme.
Thanks to my versatile hobbies, I write on various topics, but my favorite ones are engineering, technology and construction.
Tile adhesive - dry or ready
Sooner or later, everyone has to decide which glue to use for laying ceramic tiles - a dry mix or ready composition. And here I would like to advise my readers not to be led by marketers regarding the convenience and speed of using ready-made adhesive solutions. Dry mixes are superior in a number of ways. Firstly, the presence of cement in their composition allows you to easily veneer the surface of any curvature - self-prepared glue can be used as plaster. Polyurethane glue "from a bucket" will require you to pre-align. As for the cost, the price of the first and second options sometimes differs by an order of magnitude. And who wants to pay more, especially when it comes to laying tiles on an area of tens of square meters?
Of course, some of you may claim that the adhesive strength that polyurethane formulations provide far exceeds the capabilities of bagged mixes. I cannot but agree with this. And yet, let me note that modern dry compositions have properties sufficient to ensure that even the most dimensional ceramic tiles are securely held on vertical wall. If, after some ten or twenty years, you want to change the design, you can easily knock the tiles off the wall with an ordinary chisel and chisel. WITH polyurethane compound such a number will not work - it holds the material in a stranglehold. To remove the finish, you will have to use a perforator and spend more than one hour breaking the tile into small fragments and removing it from the wall in parts.
Step by step instructions for finishing
The preparatory work is over, and you can proceed to. We start with the walls. First of all, you need to measure the height of the wall and divide it by the height of the tile. If as a result you get an integer - you are lucky again - you do not have to cut the tile. But, unfortunately, the height of the wall is a multiple of the height of the tile is quite rare. In this case, the integer resulting from the division is the number of integer rows.
When calculating the number of whole rows, it is necessary to take into account not only the height of the tiles, but also the distance between them. As a rule, it is 3-5 mm.
For your convenience, you can use our online calculator.
The tiled flooring is the best view interior decoration for wet and domestic premises. The process of laying tiles requires certain building skills and availability necessary tool. Master the ability to lay ceramic tiles and perform interior decoration tile is independently accessible to an adult. Let's take a closer look at how to properly lay tiles, prepare the surface and what tool is needed for this job.
Image 1. Cleaning the wall from old plaster: a - scraper, b - smoothing with a trowel or articulated grater, c - scheme for moving the working tool.
Tool for the job
When the master lays the tiles and prepares the surface of the walls or floor, he uses the following tool:
- drill, chisel with a hammer, spatula and sandpaper for cleaning old tiles and paint;
- mixer nozzle on a drill for stirring the adhesive mixture;
- spatula with a serrated edge for applying the adhesive solution to the wall or tile;
- levels (short and long), pencil;
- tile cutter.
Auxiliary materials for laying tiles:
- support for the first row (wooden stick or metal profile);
- adhesive mixture;
- plastic corners-crosses to maintain the same distance between the individual tiles.
Back to index
Preparatory work
Image 2. Tools for tiling.
In order to lay tiles, it is necessary to prepare the surface: remove the old coating, clean, level and prime to improve adhesion. For the floor, such preparation is enough. For walls, it is necessary to set the level of the lower row, on which the first vertical row of tiles will be laid. correct technological sequence implies the rule: "I lay the tiles only on a flat, clean, primed base."
Back to index
Cleaning the surface from the old coating
Availability old paint, smeared cement, partially fallen off tiles of the previous coating, wallpaper on the prepared surface in the future after laying the tiles will affect the strength of its installation. Soon the tiles will begin to fall off, so all the previous coating is removed before laying a new one. An exception to this rule there will be a tile, firmly and securely laid on a wall or floor. If it holds up well enough, you can leave it without dismantling and lay new tile over the old one. True, the thickness of the walls will increase, and the height of the floor will rise by the thickness of the left layer of the previous tile.
The cleaning methods and the tool used are determined by the nature of the deposits that need to be removed from the building surface. The layer of old paint is scraped off with a spatula or erased with a coarse grit sandpaper.
The old tile or its parts are removed with an electric drill or a hammer with a chisel. The remains of old cement or other adhesive mixture are also cleaned with a chisel.
Image 3. Scheme of laying tiles on the floor.
The whitewash is washed off, the plaster is scraped off with a spatula or chisel. Old wallpaper can be soaked or pasted on newsprint and torn off after drying along with the remnants of the wallpaper.
All used means remove the old coating mechanically (wipe, grind, tear off). Chemical Methods cleaning (dissolve with a chemical reagent) is usually not used in the preparation of walls and floors for tiles to prevent unwanted reactions chemical with an adhesive mixture during subsequent construction activities (images 1, 2, 3).
Back to index
Leveling walls and floors
In order to qualitatively lay a tiled floor, the wall and floor must be aligned. This will improve the adhesion of ceramic tiles to the building surface.
Existing cracks are covered with cement mortar. With a clear curvature, a reinforcing mesh is strengthened on the wall, the verticality of its fastening is measured and a cement mortar is applied with a spatula. The leveling of the floor surface is carried out without a grid, by pouring a screed from a cement mortar with plasticizers.
When laying tiles on adobe wall(clay construction material) reinforcement and cementing are also preliminarily done, after which ceramic tiles are laid.
The hardened cement or the wall cleaned to concrete is primed, the liquid primer is applied with a brush or roller. With the possible appearance of a fungus, a special antifungal primer is used. Especially carefully it is necessary to process the corners of the room.
Back to index
Strengthening the level of the first row (for walls)
In order for the tiled masonry on the walls to look aesthetically pleasing, it is necessary to calculate how many whole ceramic tiles fits into the height of the room (bathroom, kitchen, toilet, corridor). Next, you need to measure this size from the ceiling down and mark it on the wall with a pencil or a scratch. From this mark, using a level on the wall, a horizontal line is drawn along which a temporary support for the first row is attached from a wooden stick or metal profile. To obtain even rows of tiles on the wall, it is imperative to follow the rule “I put the tiles of the first row on a special horizontal support”. After laying and solidifying the first two or three rows, the support can be removed. The space remaining below is smaller in height than the tile. To lay the bottom row, the tiles are cut with a tile cutter to required size. As a result, a row consisting of shortened, cut tiles will be located at the bottom, in the most unremarkable place of the vertical wall.
Back to index
Laying tiles
After completing all necessary preparatory work you can proceed to the direct laying of tiles. For gluing the tiles, the adhesive mixture is kneaded. It could be:
- cement mortar;
- special adhesive mixture based on cement mortar with additives.
The dry mix or cement is diluted with water, while the ratio of components in the finished adhesive composition is chosen in accordance with the instructions indicated on the package. For cement mortar, you need to take 4 parts of sand for 1 part of grade 400 cement and mix with water until a thick sour cream is obtained. To facilitate mixing and obtain a homogeneous adhesive solution, a mixer nozzle inserted into an electric drill is used.
Before laying on the wall, the tiles are soaked in water for 20-30 minutes. During this time, water penetrates into the existing microvoids, which ensures a stronger cementation of the tiles on the building surface.
It is possible in two ways. The simplest: apply an adhesive solution to the wall or floor along the entire surface of the intended first row. At the same time, a notched trowel is used to level the cement adhesive, leaving grooves behind. The thickness of the adhesive layer should be about 1 cm.
The soaked tiles are removed from the water, dried for 2-3 minutes and applied to the wall (to the floor). With light pressure, the tile is attached to the adhesive layer, the verticality and horizontality of each tile is checked separately, for this a short level is used.
The second method involves applying glue separately to each tile, without first coating the wall with an adhesive.
At the corners of the tile there are plastic crosshairs that determine the distance between the tiles in a row and between rows. After laying the entire row, the overall horizontalness is checked with a long level. Excess cement glue at the joints and on the outer surface of the tile is removed with a cloth. The corners are left until the adhesive mixture has completely dried.
The use of corner crosshairs allows you to make same distance between the tiles in the masonry. This distance conceals microdisplacements that occur during the expansion or contraction of dimensions from heating and cooling in winter and summer periods. Without observing the required distance between the tiles (1-3 mm), the durability of the tiled masonry is reduced.
When finishing the walls, one row is laid, then it dries, and then the next row is laid. When laying the floor, you can lay several rows in one go, since the next row does not rely on the previous one.
Careful observance technological operations, right choice tools and accessories will provide high-quality tiling of walls and floors.
After finishing the finish and getting a beautiful tiled coating, you can recommend yourself to friends: “I lay the tiles with high quality and beautifully - contact me!”.
